The floor creaks a lot, what should I do? The floor creaks, possible causes and methods for eliminating the creaking. What to do if chipboard floors squeak

The floor can become deformed for various reasons, for example due to high humidity. If the floor has been installed for a very long time, it will begin to creak and then become completely unusable. But if you carry out repairs at the right time, you can save the floor and get rid of the unpleasant noise caused by the appearance of cracks. To get rid of the problem, you need to understand where the squeak comes from and what causes it.

Why do floors creak?

When installing a wooden floor, squeaking is guaranteed, although most people treat this normally and do not take any action. But there is another group of people who cannot sleep at night because of the eternal squeak, so they are looking for all sorts of ways to restore the floor. Before determining the cause of the problem, I had to familiarize myself with different types floors For example, wooden floors At dachas, installations were most often carried out by professionals, so they easily selected the required thickness of boards, high-quality dry lumber, and installed logs wherever needed. This guarantees a silent wooden floor for at least several seasons.

Any floor will creak in five years, but this is very good result, since all floors begin to creak immediately after installation, and it makes no difference whether it is installed by a professional team or the owner of the cottage. The noise that occurs when walking on the floor is very unpleasant and can be heard throughout the house, although sometimes it is quiet. This is mainly due to the fact that the tree begins to rub against another tree, and an unpleasant sound immediately appears.

The boards can rub not only against each other, but also against the joists. This is due to the fact that the logs are installed unreliably, the mounting points are not mounted well enough, so unpleasant noise occurs. Although professionals should not make such mistakes, they do occur. When installing a board, it is ground against another, this ensures that there will be no displacement, and along with it, noise. Unfortunately, wood quickly absorbs moisture and reacts to the temperature in the room, so different seasons the tree begins to collapse under the influence of cold and moisture. For example, in spring or autumn, the size of the boards may increase as they swell due to exposure to moisture. This provokes movement and deformation of the floors. But then the most unpleasant thing happens - winter or summer comes, and the size of the boards decreases because they dry out. Because of this, gaps appear, which subsequently renders the floor unusable.

Several cycles of drying and wetting go through, so the gaps become quite large, the boards begin to run into each other and make an unpleasant noise. When a person walks on the floor, they bend and shift relative to each other, friction occurs, and a terrible squeak is heard. The chances that squeaking will occur after the first season are very high, since the floors are not installed well enough. If you are lucky and the floor was installed by real professionals, it will become unusable after 3-4 years of use.

Why do new floors squeak?

It doesn’t matter whether your floor is new or old, it will still creak for the same reasons. Of course, old buildings once had high-quality floors that dried out and became warped due to too much time passing. But even in new houses, problems arise, mainly because the floor was installed incorrectly, without following the laying technology. Although there are exceptions, if shrinkage occurs at home, which is quite rare, the floor will also collapse, but this is due to incorrect calculation foundation and does not occur very often.

There are several main reasons why the floor begins to creak:

Dried and low-quality materials were used during installation. building materials. The boards and joists begin to dry out, the sizes of the plywood sheets change significantly, and between wooden surfaces gaps form;

There is no layer between the plywood and the joists; for example, installing a layer of waterproofing can significantly reduce noise. The noise also comes from incorrect installation laminate or parquet substrates;

The boards and joists are installed poorly because the ends regularly shift relative to each other;

There is no technological gap near the walls.

The problem may arise due to incorrectly selected thickness of plywood, beams and joists, and boards. If the distance between the joists is incorrectly selected, the floor begins to creak. Please note that logs are made of timber, and they minimum size is 10x8 centimeters. It is necessary to maintain a distance between the logs of about 40 centimeters, a maximum of 60 centimeters. To prevent the boards from bending under your weight, you need to buy boards with minimum thickness 40 millimeters, and plywood with a thickness of 20 millimeters.

How to eliminate squeaking wood floors

When installing floors, the strongest wood is used, because the loads on the floor are very high. But as mentioned above, humidity and air temperature deform the structure of the wood, and this causes creaks and sagging of the floor in the most unexpected places. Despite the fact that many people face this problem, it can be solved quite simply. To get rid of squeaks, you need to acquire the following tools and materials:

Drill;

Hammer;

Nails;

Floor paint;

Nail puller;

Wood sawdust.

First, understand which boards cause the most squeaking. Just walk along the floor and listen to the sounds, in some places it will be louder. Check whether the creaking occurs in a specific place on the floorboard or whether the entire floorboard creaks. In most cases, sounds occur in boards that are poorly attached to floor beams or joists. When you find all the floorboards that are causing the squeak, write down their locations. Next, check whether there are any important communications under the floorboard.

Take a drill and make a hole on one side of the floorboard, you need to drill directly into the beam through the board. Screw a screw with the required diameter into the resulting hole; you can also drive a nail, but a screw is preferable. Recess the head into the board, both when installing a screw and a nail. Walk the floor again where you did the work and check if there is any noise? If it creaks, but not as much as before, you can make a hole on the other side of the board and screw in another screw. Next, perform this operation with all floorboards that cause unpleasant noise. As a rule, the problem will be solved after this procedure.

If the problem persists, but the noise level has decreased, you can use wooden wedges. Install them in the gaps between the floorboards and joists. To secure tongue and groove boards, you will need screws with countersunk heads. If the boards are driven in very tightly and the heads of the nails are almost invisible, use a nail puller and lift the board. This way you can understand where the logs are installed.

The most common cause of squeaking is the friction of each board against the boards located next to it. When you find the problem area, pour a little graphite powder or talc into the crack. Seal the gap with wooden wedges if you do not want to use powder.

Often, creaking occurs due to boards that have been destroyed under the influence of temperature changes and high humidity. The floorboards dry out and are placed in a different position, which causes squeaking. Prepare pasta from wood sawdust To thin it out, use floor paint. Seal every crack with this paste and the problem will be solved. To prepare the mixture you will need a small part of paint and about four parts of sawdust in the same quantity. When you apply the mixture and it dries, walk along the floor and check whether the unpleasant noise remains. Typically, the squeak should disappear.

You should also remember...

In order to reduce the chance of squeaking due to drying of boards and joists, you need to place a special damping gasket between the boards and joists. For example, insulation or waterproofing. Special underlays are used for laminate and parquet. But it happens that they are laid, but the floor still creaks - re-lay the underlay to solve the problem. You can reduce the chance of noise by loosely laying boards or boards, maintaining a gap between them with a distance of about a millimeter. This will not affect the quality of the coating, but the boards will not rub against each other. You can use wedges, but they are only used for plank floors. The ridges of the boards may be damaged, so this method is not very popular.

Currently, spruce or pine boards are used, but at one time it was believed that these materials were not suitable for laying floors. They are used mainly in Europe, where high humidity and a pleasant climate. In Russia, you need to use wood that does not absorb moisture - cedar, oak, ash or maple. It is advisable to place fabric between the boards and joists. This will reduce the friction force of the boards, so the noise will be invisible or not appear at all. The method is quite effective; you can try putting thick fabric between the boards even before you follow the recommendations from our article, which we described above.

In many old houses, the floor consists of boards that are nailed to the joists. Over time, such a floor begins to loosen and creak. You can often get rid of the nasty squeak without disassembling the boards.

Let's figure out why floors squeak?

To do this, you need to understand how the floor structure in your apartment works. Popular designs come in two types.

The first one consists of a floorboard laid on logs in increments of about 40 cm. The boards are secured with nails.
The second one lies on the logs top layer from chipboard/plywood sheets.

Logs are bars about 4 centimeters thick, which are located horizontally and serve as the basis for the cladding. They are not secured to the base in any way; they are held in place by being attached to the sheathing. The logs create a technological retreat from the concrete, which allows the floor to breathe and insulates it.

Since the sheathing is nailed to the beams using regular nails, they become loose over time. The boards begin to sag and creak when walked. The logs themselves can also become loose and shake.

Eliminating squeaks

Remove squeak wooden floors you can do it yourself and without great expense.
Cheapest and effective way- scrolling with self-tapping screws. You don't need to disassemble the floor for this. Old nails will need to be duplicated with strong screws. The squeaks will mostly go away if the joists are in good condition and have not cracked or moved out of place.

A radical way is to replace the floors. This is an expensive option, since you will have to change the flooring in the entire apartment, but everything will be reliable and for a long time. Here the choice depends on your budget and preferences: make a new floor using joists or replace only floorboard, make a dry, semi-dry or wet screed. The screed will slightly increase the height of the ceilings, and all the doors will need to be replaced. But on the screed you can easily lay tiles, porcelain stoneware, and install heating. If you want to make a screed and maintain the current floor level, the missing thickness is compensated by a layer of expanded clay or extruded polystyrene foam, which will add additional heat and sound insulation. When installing a screed, you need to clarify what constant load the floor slabs in your home can withstand; in old houses this is at least 150 kg per square meter. m.

Scrolling the floor

We will not describe the process of replacing the floor, but will tell you how to fix the squeak even without removing the boards.

Determine at what distance the floorboards lie from concrete slabs. To do this, drill a hole and measure the depth using a wire.
Buy wood screws of the required length so that they fit together with the head and do not stick out.
Find the places where the logs are. They can be identified by the nails in the floor - they run in rows along them. If the nails are not visible, dismantle the baseboard and look at the joists through the gap along the wall, there is a special indentation of about 1 centimeter.
Drill a hole 1-2 millimeters smaller than the diameter of the screw.
Tighten the screws with a screwdriver until they stop, slightly recessing the head.
Repeat this with each board, screwing it to all the joists.
There is another option - tighten screws of the same length as the distance to the concrete. You must first blunt their tip so that they do not destroy the concrete over time. In this case, they will serve as additional support and will prevent the boards from sagging. This method also helps in places where scrolling does not remove the squeak (for example, a cracked joist).

It is not advisable to attach logs to a concrete base; this will reduce sound insulation.

Video on eliminating creaking wooden floors in Khrushchev:

Sometimes the cause of squeaking lies in the friction of the boards among themselves. This problem can be solved by driving wooden wedges between them.

Now that we have eliminated the creaking in the apartment, the floor needs to be leveled before laying a new covering. It is best to do this in 2 layers of plywood with offset joints. Each sheet is screwed to the floorboard in 15 cm increments.

Example). After repairing the floor from that article, 4 years have passed, and not a single squeak has appeared.

The annoying creaking of wooden floors does not have a calming effect at all and very rarely evokes childhood memories of summer vacation at grandma's. Therefore, to save your own nerves, find out what to do if wooden floors squeak.

Certainly, ideal option The solution to this problem is to take advantage of the opportunity and begin a long-planned renovation with a complete replacement of the floors.

If this solution does not suit you, then you will have to start restorative repairs of the floor. This is a troublesome matter, and besides, you may not be able to completely get rid of the squeak. However, it’s still worth a try, since no specialist will give you a guarantee of the result or lack thereof.

Causes of squeaking

Wooden floors squeak in two situations, depending on the material your floor is made from:

if the floorboards (or any other floor covering, for example, chipboard) do not fit very tightly to the joists (or wooden beams);
if the parquet does not adhere tightly to the surface of the base on which it is laid.

In both cases, there is only one way to get rid of the squeak - remove the space that has appeared between the floor covering and its base. However, in these cases you will have to act differently.

Floor on joists

The only way to solve the question of what to do if wooden floors squeak when they are laid on joists (wooden beams) is to screw the floor covering to them more carefully.

For this you will need:

long wood screws,
screwdriver or drill with a screwdriver attachment.

The process of eliminating the squeak itself will look like this:

Find the most creaking places on the floor (so as not to “lose” them later, mark them with chalk).
Next, determine where the joists (beams) go in the floor. If the floor has been painted several times, the paint will have to be scraped off to find the nails that secure it to its base. In the case when the floor covering is made of boards, you can remove the outer boards to find the joists under them (the joists always run perpendicular to the wall at a constantly maintained distance from each other). At the same time, you can look under the floor structure and see the condition of the joists. If from under the boards you “smell” of mustiness, dampness and mold, then instead of cosmetic restoration of the floors, you should still completely replace it.
Now you need to screw self-tapping screws into the joists (beams) so as to press the boards (or chipboard) to them as tightly as possible. The pitch of the screws in this case may vary depending on the intensity of the squeak, but still should not be more than 15 centimeters. Be careful not to hit the nails with the screw, as this will cause it to break and you may be injured.

Parquet

Creaking parquet can cause no less inconvenience. And since in this case the creaking occurs due to the deformation of its individual elements (and not the whole flooring), then, first of all, it will be necessary to find them, since the defect will have to be eliminated pointwise.

To get rid of the squeak you will need:

drill with a drill with a diameter of 6-8 mm,
ordinary cement (about 20 g for each creaking plank) - if you don’t have it, then a mixture for plastering work is suitable,
a very large syringe without a needle.

Having prepared everything necessary for the repair, you can proceed to the main action:

Carefully drill a hole in the middle of the creaking parquet strip.
Prepare cement mortar, the consistency of which should resemble regular milk.
Fill in cement mixture into a syringe. Make sure you can squeeze it out without it getting stuck in the syringe. If the mixture is too thick, dilute it with water. In too liquid mixture you will have to add some cement.
Insert the syringe into the hole and pour the solution into it in small portions. Remember that after each “dose” of the solution, another portion of air should come out from under the parquet. Take your time - neither cement nor plaster mixture do not harden instantly.
The hole must be filled with the mixture until it stops accepting solution.
Wait for the solution to harden and make sure that the parquet no longer creaks.
Fill the hole in the parquet plank with a special putty (or mastic) for wood.

You should not immediately try to get rid of all deformed parquet planks from squeaking. First, it’s better to do a “test” repair and only after making sure that this solution to the problem has helped you, continue to get rid of other creaking places. If the creaking does not go away, you will most likely have to re-lay the entire parquet, along the way renewing the surface of the subfloor and replacing damaged planks.

Video

Here you can see an example of work to eliminate the creaking of a wooden floor:

For those without construction education and experience home handyman information becomes relevant about why a wooden floor creaks, usually after several years of use. The reason is the lack of stable geometry of the structure, loosening of its individual elements, leading to a decrease in strength.

The structure of a wooden floor (subfloor or floor covering) is completely repairable, so you can get rid of squeaks in any case, but using various technologies.

Before removing creaking wooden floors in an apartment or house on our own, it is necessary to understand the causes of sounds. Creaking occurs due to friction of individual structural elements with each other:

Finally, joists or beams may rot on separate areas, part of the boardwalk attached to them touches adjacent boards attached to sections of the block that have retained the spatial geometry.

Important! If the floor creaks due to the boards bending under your feet (they touch each other), then you will need major renovation(dismantling) boardwalk. You will have to either reduce the pitch of the lags or increase the thickness of the board.

There are several ways to get rid of squeaking, depending on the purpose of the floor ( finishing coat from a tongue-and-groove board or an edged subfloor board), its design and the hardware used (nail or self-tapping screw).

Remedies

To get rid of the creaking of a wooden floor on your own, you need to restore its structure according to technology:

any lumber can change geometry (drying out, warping) when humidity changes, so treatment with an antiseptic and periodic impregnation with the same liquid during operation is necessary;
the logs must be firmly fixed to the base, and the boards must be tightly pressed to them with self-tapping screws or nails with a screw notch;
To level the logs horizontally, it is prohibited to use wooden wedges; you should use TWO polymer wedges with a corrugated surface in the set;
the pitch of laying the logs should be calculated depending on the operational loads and the thickness of the sub/finish floor board in order to avoid critical deflections;
each board must be fastened with two screws to one joist to ensure a stable position in the transverse direction.

Advice! The most difficult option is considered to be the dismantling of the flooring and its re-laying after inspection of the lumber. In order not to completely open the floors to provide access to rotten bars, holes and hatches can be cut out.

In other words, all methods of getting rid of creaking floorboards come down to additional fixation of wooden elements to each other with screws, pins or wedging. Less commonly, the internal cavity is foamed to provide a large supporting surface or laid on top of plank flooring sheet materials, distributing point loads evenly over their entire area.

Fixation with self-tapping screws/anchors

If a home craftsman does not know what to do to eliminate squeaking, the method of additionally fixing the boards to the joists is most often intuitively used. This scheme is only suitable for fully preserved joists with normal support on the base. If the logs are hanging on the boards (the wedges have flown out, the lumber has dried out) or are partially rotten, this technology will not bring results.

In addition, when fixing the flooring elements, you should take into account the features of the hardware:

a self-tapping screw with an incomplete thread - presses the tongue against the joists without a gap, since the smooth part “falls” into the hole made by the threaded part of the hardware;
self-tapping screw with full thread - rigidly fixes the position of the board relative to the joist with the existing gap, since the engagement force is very high, both inside the wood of the joist and the board.

Therefore, there are three ways to fix plank flooring elements with self-tapping screws:

Important! The last two methods are less reliable compared to the first, therefore they are used in emergency cases.

It is impossible to recess screw heads into hard wood; it is necessary to make a “sunk hole” with a countersink. To do this, you can use a similar self-tapping screw, cutting off the head by hand engraver(1.5 - 2 cm in length) and using the same tool to make inclined notches like a milling cutter.

Cover tightening

The flooring boards are laid close to each other and have a thickness of 2–5 cm. Therefore, by compressing the dried material with each other in separate areas, you can increase the rigidity of the horizontal structure and eliminate squeaking without additional costs. There are two methods for this:

Important! In both cases, existing nails or screws must be removed from the boards before screeding to allow horizontal movement of the deck elements.

Wedging

If the defective area is located far from the wall, it is difficult to tighten wooden floors using the previous method. Therefore, the flooring boards are wedged in place using the following technology:

the floorboard is sanded;
a strip of the required width and length is selected, its lower edge is sharpened with a wedge;
the lath is coated with PVA glue and driven in with a wooden mallet;
the upper plane is processed with a plane, then polished.

As a result, the boards are pressed tightly against each other, pointwise applied loads are distributed over a large surface, the lamellas stop “walking,” and sounds disappear.

Foaming and injection

When enough solid foundation, on which the logs are laid, experts recommend the following method on how to eliminate squeaking in the boardwalk:

drilled into the board through hole diameter 5 – 6 mm;
through it, the internal cavity near the defective area is filled between the lags with polyurethane foam;
After drying, the foam turns into a supporting pad, dramatically increasing the support area.

The technique is suitable for emergency cases, but is not highly reliable for a number of reasons:

when loads are applied, the foam shrinks under the board, the creaking returns after a while;
filling closed cavities is fraught with the risk of the floor covering/subfloor sticking out, since it is necessary to leave at least 1/3 of the space for secondary expansion of the foam when hardening;

Important! Unlike insulating a house, it is better to use household insulation for floors. polyurethane foam. Its density is higher, and thermal insulation characteristics in this case they do not matter.

The injection method is more reliable when the cavity is filled instead of foam adhesive composition air-hardening (epoxy and polymer resins).

But this method is suitable for filling small cavities, since epoxy glue is quite expensive.

Plywood flooring, chipboard

Another, but with many limitations, way to eliminate the creaking of a wooden floor inside a home is sheet flooring:

The main disadvantages of the technology are:

if the plywood joint is on a creaking board, this will only aggravate the situation;
wood-containing boards are expensive and increase the repair budget;
plywood and chipboard are not facing materials, so additional decoration will be required.

Therefore, plywood flooring is used to eliminate the creaking of boardwalks extremely rarely.

Dowel fastening

The veneered boards are joined lengthwise in adjacent rows using interlocking joints. U edged boards There is no tongue and groove, so its geometry is more susceptible to changes when humidity changes. Therefore, information on how to make a dowel connection to correct the indicated defect is useful for the home craftsman:

in adjacent boards is made blind hole at 45 degrees;
cylindrical wooden detail– the dowel is coated with glue and driven into this hole;
the operation is repeated in the opposite direction, as in the lower diagram;
After the glue has dried, the dowels are cut along the plane of the board.

Important! The quality of the joint depends on the immovability of the boards relative to each other at the time of drilling.

Replacing boards and joists

With significant physical wear and tear it is necessary to replace all lumber so that logs and boards do not creak:

This is the most expensive option; you will need to remove all the furniture from the room and dismantle the trim.

Preventing squeaks when laying wood floors

You can avoid the occurrence of unpleasant sounds from friction of wood against wood or metal at the stage of installing the boardwalk. To do this, it is enough to lay absorbent material on top of the joists and use adjustable floor technology.

Soundproofing by joists

The home handyman will not have to disassemble the boardwalk if you cut off the logs from the edged/tongue board:

At the same time, the acoustics of the ceiling will be further improved and protection from getting wet will be provided.

Adjustable floor technology

Without experience, figuring out why a tongue-and-groove flooring board or subfloor turned out creaky is very difficult. Therefore, manufacturers produce an adjustable floor system in which the likelihood of third-party sounds is reduced:

the logs are mounted on studs passed through the block;
with carving they are set at a single horizontal level;
the protruding threaded part is cut off with an angle grinder.

Lumber absorbs moisture less, ensuring natural ventilation, there is no rigid fixation of wood to concrete. Even if boards incorrectly attached to the joists begin to creak, repairing the defective areas is much easier, since there is no need to open the entire floor.

Thus, the characteristic creaking of the boardwalk can be eliminated with your own hands by additionally screwing in self-tapping screws, foaming the internal space underneath, wedging, or other specified methods.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for selecting them. Just submit in the form below detailed description work that needs to be done and offers will be sent to your email with prices ranging from construction crews and companies. You can see reviews about each of them and photographs with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

The creaking of floorboards can easily be compared to a toothache from which you urgently want to be cured. Why does this happen, and what to do if wooden floors squeak?

The essence of the problem is easy to understand using the example of floors in apartments of high-rise buildings built several decades ago, when chipboard (chipboard) was used for paving the floors, which was covered with fiberboard (fibreboard). Today, tongue and groove boards are more often used for flooring, with a tenon and groove milled on the opposite edges. A similar technology is used in the manufacture of modern laminate flooring based on high-density fiberboard. Instead of chipboard, today plywood with a thickness of 12 cm is used, which is used as flooring for laying a new floor covering on top of the old one. Sheets of plywood are attached to the old floor with self-tapping screws in increments of 15-20 cm.

The highly prized classic parquet flooring of the Soviet period suffered from similar creaking problems.

Wooden floors have always been distinguished by a lot of advantages - environmental friendliness of the material, high heat and sound insulation, durability - wood serves people for decades, giving the room a special charm. Therefore, the desire to keep it in the interior of the home remains for a long time. Let's look at examples of how to do this.

The essence of the problem

Before eliminating the cause, you need to know it. To do this, we identify and study problem areas of the floor. This will help to do an easy walk over the entire surface of the floor, during which you can find the cause either in one floorboard or in a larger area. It is important to determine whether any communications are laid under the creaky area of the floor. After all, for example, electrical wiring sometimes they are placed under the floor rather than in the walls.

When installing floors, logs are used. These are smooth wooden beams, on which the floorboards are laid and then secured. The logs are placed on the so-called pulp - soft covering, which in turn is laid on a concrete or other base for flooring. Over time, the pulp can become outdated, and therefore sag in certain places, which causes squeaking.

Annoying sounds are most often produced by individual floorboards, which are the weak link of the wooden flooring. If a large area of floor is unstable, the cause may not be the individual flooring board, but wooden base underneath it, that is, a long joist that has undergone deformation or received a crack. No wonder, the floor is the part of the interior that is subject to the greatest load - daily, constant and dynamic.

The cause of the squeak may be friction of the floorboards, deformation and drying out of joists and floorboards, loosening of the nail connections of floor elements, or lack of clearance at the walls.

If, when examining the floorboards, no defects are found, then the squeaking occurs from their friction against each other. If deformed floorboards are found, it is not at all necessary to get rid of them.

Creaking sound when floorboards are deformed

Such a squeak occurs, for example, under the influence of dampness; it would be logical to get rid of the dampness itself and its source. And then do the following:

make a paste from components such as paint and sawdust in a ratio of 1:4 (the color of the paint must match the color of the painted floor). Instead of paste, polyurethane foam is also used, although it is less reliable and breaks down faster under load;
Use ready-made paste to seal all irregularities and cracks;
After the solution has hardened, make sure there is no creaking.

A floorboard that is rotten or cannot be repaired for other reasons should be replaced with a new one, after first making sure that the joist underneath is intact. We fix a new floorboard of similar thickness and structure in the same way as the rest of the boards, and begin to enjoy the silence.

Creak when floorboards rub

If the cause of the squeak is friction of the floorboards, you must:

determine the boundaries of the “creaky” area;
Fill cracks between creaking floorboards with graphite powder.

Pay attention! If the goal is not achieved using graphite powder, drive wooden wedges between the floorboards. Wedges can also be driven between beams and floorboards using a hammer and hammer. The distance between the wedges should be 150 cm. Countersunk screws are used to secure the wedges.

Creak when the pulp sag

If the substrate has lost its properties, proceed as follows:

in the place of the creaking, use a wire to measure the depth to the concrete by drilling a hole in the floor;
screw a self-tapping screw, slightly longer than the depth of the hole in the floor, all the way into the concrete, then tighten the self-tapping screw until the creaking disappears;
cut off the part of the self-tapping screw protruding above the floor surface and sand it;
varnish or paint the areas where the screw is screwed in.

A similar tightening with self-tapping screws is also used in the case of friction between joists (beams) and floor boards (floorboards). The log is fastened to the board with several self-tapping screws. Instead of a self-tapping screw, you can use a No. 8 screw. The holes for it are directed at an angle to each other, which provides additional rigidity to the connection between the board and the beam. Along with self-tapping screws for fastening the floor to concrete base more reliable metal anchors are used.

Creak when beams are loosened

Repairs when beams are weakened are carried out as follows:

it is necessary to dismantle the floorboards in the place where the creaking is detected;
prepare bars with a thickness corresponding to the thickness of the beam, with a height of 25 mm less than the height of the beam in case of laying communications; the length of the bar must correspond to the clearance between the beams;
install bars as spacers to strengthen the beams alternately in the central part of the span between the beams;
secure the bars at the end with two nails (100 mm); the block is attached to the wall on one side.

Pay attention! It is especially important to eliminate any wobbles in the floor if you decide to cover the wooden floor with linoleum, so that later you do not have to think about what to do if the wooden floors squeak.

If the proposed work is carried out carefully, the problem of creaking floorboards will be solved, and you can breathe a sigh of relief. At first, you may be careful and wary of stepping on your floor, expecting a possible squeak that you will no longer hear. The habit of good things comes quickly, and as a result, comfort will become commonplace for you.