Today, OSB boards are widely used in construction and interior decoration. The OSB board itself is a panel with dimensions of 2.5 × 1.2 m, which is made from compressed wood chips and has good performance, such as strength, ease of processing, resistance to mechanical damage.

OSB also has high sound and heat insulation. However, when the time comes finishing premises, many novice builders are wondering: How to properly putty OSB. After all, each OSB board is coated with wax, which preserves quality characteristics material, and the putty simply won’t fit on such a coating. How can one be, the material is so praised, but as a result, some ridiculous problems appear in the simplest finishing.

In this article, we will look in detail at how to properly putty OSB boards with your own hands, using quite simple diagram. Moreover, it doesn’t matter at all what needs to be puttied, the wall or the ceiling.
So, below is a wall covered with OSB, on the left before finishing, on the right - puttied, which is ready for painting or wallpapering.

Some builders, before starting to putty OSB, prefer to first sand the entire surface, thereby removing the wax layer and making the surface rough. True, this method will take a lot of time, and there will be a lot of dust, especially if you use a power tool. Others choose a simpler and no less reliable way– treating the OSB surface with a special primer and using mesh during the puttying process. Moreover, both methods incur approximately the same costs for tools and materials, but differ greatly in the time spent on work.

Selecting the necessary material and tools

In order for the putty to adhere well to smooth OSB, its surface must be prepared. To do this, we purchase a primer called “Concrete-Contact” and a small brush or roller from any hardware store. After applying the primer, a rough layer forms on the smooth OSB surface. This surface, as a result, allows the putty to adhere well to the base.

Now you can proceed to the next stage of preparing the OSB surface. In order for the putty to stay on the wall not only firmly, but also for a long time, it is advisable to reinforce it. Therefore, when buying soil, be sure to take a plaster mesh with you. Almost all plaster meshes, as a rule, are made of either metal or polymer materials and have different sizes cells. Of course, to reinforce a thick layer of putty or plaster, it is advisable to use metal mesh, but, for finishing interior walls rooms made of OSB, it is enough to use fiberglass (or glass-fabric) mesh with a cell size of 5x5 mm. The main advantages of using such a grid:

- relatively low cost;
- simple material to use;
— improves the strength of the coating;
— prevents the appearance of cracks during shrinkage of the putty.

How to putty OSB

- creates a fairly durable and elastic coating;
— does not crumble and does not crack when drying;
— the finished surface can practically not be sanded;
- quick-drying material.


However, such putty is much more expensive than regular putty, but you can live with this, since the cost of purchasing it is easily offset by the quality and speed of work. To apply the putty, you will need two metal spatulas, one wide 20-30 cm, the second narrower 10-15 cm. We will apply the first spatula layer by layer, and the second we will work in the corners and hard to reach places, and also scoop the putty from the bucket.

Preparing the surface
If desired, for greater confidence, you can lightly sand the OSB panels with coarse sandpaper on critical areas of the walls, for example in corners or at doors and window openings. The primer is applied to the wall with a regular brush or roller in 2-3 layers with an interval of 20-30 minutes. After applying the last layer, it is necessary to allow the primer to completely absorb and dry, for which 3-4 hours is enough. Then we take the plaster mesh and cut it into strips of length equal to the height of the ceiling. The mesh is applied in one layer over the entire wall area. It is recommended to place each adjacent grid with a slight overlap of 2-10 cm - as wallpaper was glued before. Attach the mesh to the wall with a stapler, screws or glue. It is not at all necessary to glue it over the entire area, just “smear” it with putty and it will easily stick to the rough surface of the OSB. It is better to start laying the mesh from the corner of the room.




Having glued the plaster mesh to the wall behind it top part, we begin to putty. We work only within the mesh strip, leaving small margins from the edges to overlap the edge of the next mesh. The first layer of putty should only attach and smooth out the mesh, so you shouldn't sculpt a lot at once. Consistency and accuracy are important here. We perform puttying according to standard puttying rules. We scoop up the putty with a small spatula and put it on a large one, with which we spread it on the wall. The direction of applying the putty itself does not matter, the main thing is that the surface is as smooth as possible. To avoid sagging and unevenness, try to hold the spatula correctly while working. Start spreading the putty on the wall, holding the spatula at an angle of 45-60 degrees to the surface, and finish the putty by gradually reducing the angle to 15-30 degrees.




It will be easier to putty an OSB wall with a mesh if you gradually move from the ceiling to the floor. This way we will gradually smooth out and evenly cover the entire plaster mesh. In total, the putty is applied to the OSB panel in 2-3 layers with a thickness of 1-2 mm. After applying each layer, you need to let the coating dry for 30-60 minutes. The first layer can be made 1 mm thick - just to attach and smooth the mesh. The second layer should cover the plaster mesh. With the last layer we level the almost finished surface.



Finishing the putty
We finish the puttying, leveling out all the unevenness, using only a large spatula. The plaster mesh may be slightly translucent, but in no case should it protrude or be flush. If, after the putty has dried, the mesh still appears, you need to add another layer of putty. Ideally, the plaster mesh should be 2-3 mm from the surface of the finishing layer of putty. Trying to apply the putty carefully and evenly, layer by layer. If you don't rush, you may end up not having to sand the finished surface.



We count the consumption of materials
Before you buy primer, putty, brushes and a whole set of spatulas in the store, you need to decide how much and what to buy. After all, although the remaining extra can of putty will be useful on the farm, you will still spend a certain amount of money on it, which could be used to buy the missing can of soil. Therefore, it is better to calculate, at least approximately, how many materials will be needed. Here is the approximate consumption of building materials for puttying OSB panels.

OSB boards are used in construction both inside and outside the building. However, there are some problems when applying plaster to wood slabs. Difficulties include the formation of cracks and moisture absorption. To prevent these negative manifestations You need to prepare the wooden surface well. Find out the best way to do this from our article.

To protect relatively inexpensive material from atmospheric phenomena For OSB it is recommended to apply plaster. However, in practice this is not so simple, since it is necessary to ensure sufficient adhesion, reduced moisture absorption and the absence of cracks. Nose the right advice possible good plaster both in the external and internal parts of the building.

OSB panels are happily used indoors for interior decoration. However, since they are made of wood, they absorb moisture well.

Apply plaster directly to the slab, the plaster becomes dry and falls off over time, changes in indoor air humidity also lead to cracks as the slabs react to this. One way to eliminate this negative property is to use plasterboard boards indoors. They protect the OSB surface and create an additional layer that can be easily plastered. In this case, fiberglass tape is used for joints, the seams of plasterboard slabs are sealed with soil, and after drying the surface is ready for plastering. We recommend reading on our website how to install OSB - several methods are described.

If you have installed osb panels outside, then they can be lined with sheets of foam plastic, then apply reinforcing fabric, and finally plaster. On outdoors there is a risk of moisture getting in, even with good plaster - heavy rain, snow, temperature fluctuations pose a risk to OSB sheets.

Direct plaster on OSB panels
Although it is better to preserve the OSB board from the outside not to plaster it, but to treat it with other means. But if such needs arise, it is possible to do this. To do this, treat the surface with a special acrylic primer. Make sure it completely covers the surface and there are no transparent or translucent areas. This is the only way to ensure protection of OSB sheets from moisture. Allow the surface to dry and apply reinforcing fabric. This should protect the plaster from cracking.

Next, you need to apply a thin layer of tile adhesive - it should be so thin that the mesh of the reinforcing fabric is visible. Excess tile adhesive is removed. Tile adhesive here performs two tasks - it serves, firstly, as adhesion, and secondly, it represents an additional layer that retains moisture outside. After this procedure, it is necessary to provide sufficient time for the surface to dry completely.

Tip: When working outdoors, you must ensure that the panels have sufficient time to dry. Therefore, pay attention to the weather forecast and choose the driest day possible when carrying out work.

Preparing OSB boards for plastering (both inside and outside the house)

Plaster cannot stick to smooth OSB sheets. Due to the fact that this material is supplied without protective treatment against moisture, it quickly swells and is thereby damaged. To correct this, mechanical adhesion mediators are needed. An alternative is to use adhesive paint. For example, galvanized iron mesh is suitable. It must have sufficient strength and be well secured.

Preparing the base

If you want to apply a thin layer of plaster ( light plaster thickness up to 1 cm), then to prepare the base use an acrylic-based adhesive primer. It is effective against moisture. Then attach the reinforcing mesh to the base, walk thin layer tile adhesive.

Tip: Press well on the mesh so that it does not slip and is well secured. Allow the prepared base to dry thoroughly before continuing work.

Now the surface needs to be primed - a primer for concrete mortars. If you want to plaster with clay building material, then special primers are offered in the trade, which are also suitable for OSB boards.

Plaster on OSB sheet

Now that the surface is prepared, you can easily plaster it. It is advisable to apply two layers, allowing each layer to dry thoroughly. If you are using clay plasters, you can apply them with paint brushes. Plastering on OSB is not a complicated process, so everything is done quite easily.

You have a choice whether you want to buy ready mixture or make the solution yourself by mixing the necessary ingredients.

It contains the following components:

• Sand
• Cement
• Slaked lime

The properties and behavior of the solution depend on the mixture chosen. Thus, by changing the ratio between the individual components, its properties can be changed. For example, high content lime deposits increases the strength and adhesion of the solution. Remember to mix water, cement and sand in equal parts to get a good result.

For internal works Fine sand is suitable, as the plaster layer becomes smoother. As an alternative, you can use a ready-made mixture. Pay attention to the information on the packaging, here you will learn about the scope of application of the selected product.

Advice: since in many mixtures the content of calcined substance remains insignificant, if necessary, you can mix in a little lime. This is necessary if you want a more durable plaster.

As a rule, a plastic bucket is sufficient for mixing the solution. Finishing mixtures are now mixed with water, resulting in plaster. To mix, place the mixture in a bucket and add and add water in the amount indicated on the package. For mixing, you can use a drill with an appropriate attachment. After mixing, the solution should be left for 10 minutes.

These tools and materials are needed for Plastering:

• Flat trowel
• Plaster grater
• Level
• Rail
• Spatula
• Plastic containers
• Drill
• Drill attachment
• Ready mix, or respectively, cement, slaked lime and sand

1. First, using a spatula, spread the solution evenly over the wall. The consistency of the material is important for speed and other work processes. The mixture should not be too wet or too dry. Thanks to the optimal mixing ratio, you have enough time to ensure an even layer of plaster.

2. In addition, for plastering works a rack will be required. It should be long enough and can be made of wood or metal. It serves to evenly distribute the plaster over the wall surface. Pull the strip from one side to the other until the surface is smooth.

3. After this, you should pay attention to empty spaces and depressions. Add the solution there and go over it again with a lath so that the surface becomes even.

4. These operations should be performed until the smooth surface and the plaster will not have sufficient thickness.

5. To check uniformity, use a water level. If you find small irregularities, you will have to refine them until the surface is perfectly smooth.

6. Then use a wide spatula and move it along the wall. It will remove excess mortar, and even small irregularities will disappear on the wall.

7. Allow the solution to dry before continuing.

8. After the solution has dried, you can correct minor unevenness - the task will be much simpler.

9. After completing the work, the plaster should dry for several days.

10. If you plan to paint the plaster, you must first apply gypsum mixture. And when finishing, do not use a grater - the surface should remain smooth.

Features of plastering OSB boards

The edges and seam areas are important point when plastering OSB boards. There are special seam tapes available for sale that can be used for edges. Self-adhesive versions are especially easy to handle. To prevent cracks from forming in the seam areas, versions with artificial fibers. Additives provide the most flexible shape and the material is easily stretched. This reduces pressure and the risk of cracks.

When working with OSB boards, first of all you need to remember that more than 90% of these products consist of wood. Therefore, high-quality OSB finishing slabs is associated with the use of materials characteristic of working with solid wooden surfaces.
The slabs lend themselves to almost any finishing: they can be glued, painted, puttyed, varnished and even, subject to certain rules, plastered. All processing methods have their own characteristics, so each one should be analyzed separately.

Slab painting

A material such as OSB can be painted with water-based or oil compositions applied by brush, spray or roller.

The question often arises: is it possible to paint OSB boards with water-based compounds? It is possible, but this will increase the shape of the sheet slightly (swelling is possible), so it is highly advisable to use. Painting on only one side may cause the panel to bend slightly. That's why water-based paints It is worth processing the slab when appearance not important. In opposite situations, it is necessary to use oil compounds. What are the features?

1. Any paint tends to spread on sharp corners. Therefore, before painting, they must be rounded by light sanding (with a radius of at least 3 mm). This is especially important for OSB used for exterior finishing.

When treating slabs located outside, it is necessary to use paints intended for outdoor use. In this case, the manufacturer's recommendations for painting should be followed. wooden surfaces.

2. Edges. Their surface is more porous than the plane of the slab. The result is greater absorption, i.e. moisture absorption. Therefore, special attention should be paid to sealing edges. Moreover, this operation must be carried out before priming and applying the main coating.

3. Padding. If you decide to treat the slabs with an antiseptic or fire-retardant impregnation, then you should carefully read the instructions - some of these chemicals may contain a high alkali content, which will require the use of a special primer.

4. Layers of paint. The opinion that the thicker the layer, the better it will protect the surface, is not entirely true. It is better to apply several thin coats rather than one thick one. In this case, each layer must be thoroughly dried.

• the edges must be processed before the assembly of the structure begins (rounded and sealed);
• If water-based sealing compounds are used, then due to swelling in the future, mandatory grinding will be required. Therefore, it is better to use solvent-based formulations (for initial processing);
• when using transparent dyes, it is necessary to use those that prevent the penetration of ultraviolet rays (i.e., inhibitors must be present in the composition of such materials);
• slabs must be fastened in such a way that there are no potential areas for moisture accumulation;
• It is necessary to cover both sides with dye equally;
• 45 degree end connections are not recommended (due to the formation of sharp edges). If the finishing requires that the edges will be visible after completion of the work, then they must be filled with cellulose (wood) filler, then sanded and primed.

Putty and varnish

The design of the OSB board itself and its texture are decorative and look aesthetically attractive. The use of colorless putty or varnish will only emphasize the naturalness of the surface. But do not forget about the “tendency” of the material to swell.

So is it possible to putty OSB? It is possible if oil-based formulations are used. Good effect gives the use of putty when applying it to flooring from slabs. The surface is glossy and sufficiently protected from mechanical stress.

There is no special putty for OSB or varnish. The usual composition used for wooden surfaces will do. If it is necessary to use them, it is better to use special plates that have already been sanded by the manufacturer - such panels do not require preliminary preparation. Sanded boards can also be used for film coating or lamination.

If you use drywall to decorate your home, we advise you to read the article about.

Pasting wallpaper on OSB

Here the traditional approach is no longer suitable. The plate has high absorbency. Therefore, you cannot simply paste wallpaper using glue containing water - the slab will begin to swell and the wallpaper will simply fall off.

In order for the wallpaper to adhere securely to the OSB surface, it is necessary to take a number of preparatory measures.

First, a layer of primer must be applied to the panel. After it has completely (completely!) dried, any dispersion putty based on synthetic resin is applied. Its drying time should not be less than 12 hours.

And the final preparatory step is gluing the elastic material for reinforcement. Only compliance with the above rules will allow the pasted wallpaper to remain on the OSB surface.

Plastering OSB boards

Very often OSB boards are in demand during construction - they are used for upholstery load-bearing frame. One of the ways to protect it in this case is plastering. However, here again the problem of absorption arises and the question “is it possible to plaster OSB” is quite appropriate.

The process of plastering slabs has its own characteristics. These, first of all, include preliminary fastening of bitumenized cardboard to the surface. It is also possible to use roofing felt with paper base or facing kraft paper.

The next stage is attaching the galvanized plaster mesh. The resulting structure is filled with a special adhesive (the grille must be completely immersed in it). No special plaster on OSB board is required. The only requirement is that it must be vapor-permeable and polymer-acrylic.

Gluing elements onto OSB

If necessary, various materials can be glued to the OSB board. decorative elements at interior decoration. For external use, the need for gluing may arise, for example, on the roof. Typically, several types of glue are used, depending on the location of application and the required strength of the joints:

• thermoplastics: for working in dry conditions (the objects to be glued must be fixed);
• thermal hardening compositions: serve as structural, i.e. load-bearing glue (hardens when heated, but there are compositions that harden at room temperature);
• Urea-formaldehyde, melamine-formaldehyde: have limited resistance to weather conditions. It is better to use in a place protected from precipitation or indoors;
• elastomers: include 2 components (binder, glue itself), used for gluing thick parts (sets quickly, no preliminary fixation is required);
• bitumen-based: most often used for fixing when arranging the roof.

With the widespread use of oriented strand panels (oriented strand panels) in residential construction, the question arose whether it is possible to plaster osb boards. A wood base bonded with resins is not suitable for conventional mixtures based on cement, lime or gypsum.

Polymer-based pox board plaster

With the advent plaster compositions on polymer based With high adhesion to wood, the problem of how to plaster OSB on the outside has lost its relevance. The elastic mixture effortlessly lays a thin layer on the base of the slab, tightening minor irregularities. A kind of rubber shell is formed, resistant to mechanical and atmospheric influences.

Suitable for indoor and exterior finishing. Tinted with acrylic dyes. Technical requirements standardized:

• withstands 10% linear tension (compression) square meter coatings;
• water permeability 1 sq.m. no more than 8 grams per hour;
• operating temperature range from -50°C to +60°C;
• 150 freezing cycles without loss of quality;
• preservation of properties for at least 25 years;
• 24 hours for the applied composition to dry;
• consumption 2 - 2.5 kg of mixture per 1 sq.m.

Plastering on OSB with elastic putty is performed in the following sequence:

• The plate is cleaned with coarse sandpaper. This removes protruding wood fibers that have a weak connection with the base;
• to increase adhesion, the cleaned surface is primed with an appropriate agent;
• after the soil dries acrylic sealant fill the unevenness and smooth it with moistened soapy solution with a spatula. This will protect the instrument from sticking of the composition;
• The composition is applied to the prepared surface and leveled to obtain a layer up to 5 mm thick. The maximum thickness of plaster on the OSB board is applied to the façade, insulating the room from cold and moisture leaks. For decorative finishing interior walls 1.5 - 2 mm is enough.

OSB is especially practical with the use of decorative polymer compositions:

• bright colors will decorate any facade;
• coloring the entire thickness of the layer will hide surface damage;
• the building will receive additional external protection.

The high cost of composite structures forces the developer to look for alternative options. OSB plaster The exterior of slabs is possible using oil-adhesive mixtures and nitro putties.

Alternative to flexible plaster

The most widely used is oil-adhesive putty. Available in prepared or concentrated form. Derivative mixtures:

• drying oil or oil paint is the binding component of the composition;
• CMC glue forms a strong connection between the plaster and the OSB board;
• chalk as a mineral filler;
• driers to speed up the drying of drying oil;
• plasticizers soften the composition, making it easier to apply and level the putty;
• water is added in small quantities to prevent the mixture from drying out during storage.

Nitro putties are applied in a thin layer. Used to treat minor damage or for decorative purposes. They have a pungent odor. Work is carried out in well-ventilated areas. Solvents act as a base. Fillers: red lead, koalin, zinc white. Required finishing touches surfaces: painting or wallpapering.

There is another way to apply plaster to the surface of an oriented strand board: glue to the surface thin sheets polyurethane foam and plastered with mixtures based on cement, lime or gypsum.

Mesh for facades (density 160 g/m3);

The second method is plastering directly on the sheets of external cladding of the house. Unfortunately, if you are not a fan of the fakferkh style (when simulating fakferkh, the seams are covered with flashings), then this method of finishing can be considered solely as temporary. As practice shows, within 5-7 years, even if everything is done efficiently and correctly, cracks will appear at the joints of the external cladding sheets, which will spoil the appearance of the facades. But plastering on OSB sheets for external cladding is an excellent way to take a “break” and save up money for finishing facing bricks, fiber cement siding, thermal panels with clinker finishing or other materials with high cost.

So, how to apply the plaster mixture directly onto the OSB sheets of the external cladding of the house? Already on initial stage we must try to reduce the joints of the sheets to a minimum - one of the ways for external cladding is OSB sheets, format 1250 x 2800. It is also advisable to cut window and door openings in whole OSB sheets, rather than using leftover material around them.

Step.1. We go through all the joints of the OSB sheets with frost-resistant sealant, put self-adhesive “serpyanka” on top, and putty.

Step 2. We prime all the walls. It is important that it allows the walls to “breathe” and does not isolate water vapor inside the house, for example, for this you can use “Knauf-Tiefengrunt” or similar.

Step 3. We apply a thin first layer to the pre-primed sheets of the outer skin, spread a fiberglass mesh on top, and recess it a little into the first layer (in addition, the mesh can be “shot” with a construction stapler). Then apply the second layer plaster mixture.

Step 4. Painting the facades in the chosen color. The paint used for facades should also not isolate water vapor in the wall.

Facade elastic plaster on osb

Elastic plaster is an environmentally friendly product, does not contain toxic solvents, is a composition with an elastic acrylic polymer, similar in appearance to ordinary plaster mortar. has high adhesion to almost all substrates (plaster, cement, concrete, asbestos, wood, chipboard, brick, OSB board) and has high performance characteristics.

The plaster has the following properties:

• forms an elastic coating without cracks characteristic of conventional plaster mortar;
• can be applied to almost any type of surface;
• provides 105% elongation (elasticity);
• the coating has a high coefficient of vapor permeability and ensures proper air and moisture exchange for the building;
• the material is easy to use: when applied to vertical surfaces does not drip from the spatula, is easy to apply and spread over the surface.

Purpose: Designed for decorative finishing of premises on concrete, brick, plastered or painted surfaces. Forms a durable, breathable, moisture-resistant, structural coating that can mask minor surface defects and at the same time create decorative effect. Available white. Tinting is carried out in any color according to the RAL and NCS catalogs upon request.

Specifications:

Facade plaster using OSB

Thank you. What did you use to prime it? Is the mesh only on the seams or over the entire surface? How much did it cost per square meter?
Mesh over the seams, then primer, then plaster, mesh over the entire surface and plaster again.
By price and materials:
Self-adhesive mesh for joints 2X100rub=200
Test façade 2x400=800
Corner plaster profile with mesh - 2.5 m - 15x110 = 1650 rub.
Plaster mesh 4Х1100=4400 rub. (The mesh density must be at least 160 g/m2, if memory serves)
Primer Tifengrund 10l-2x705=1410 rub.
Plaster-adhesive mixture Knauf Sevener 30x420=12600 rub.
Total: 21060 rub.
I find it difficult to answer about the area of ​​the facade, I don’t have a project at hand, the house is 10x10, the height of the 1st floor + underground = 4 m, plus attic floor with an attic, 5 m high, plus a tower, well, 200-250 meters. Then the meter amounted to 85-105 rubles, although I could be wrong with the area of ​​the facade.