The blind area around the house is a protection for the foundation, which is designed to prevent soil erosion. The design removes melt and rainwater, thereby also reducing the load on the waterproofing. At the same time, the service life of both the foundation and the entire building as a whole increases.
For those who have decided to construct a blind area around the house with their own hands, it will be useful to know that the construction of a blind area is regulated by SNiP 2.02.01-83, and general calculations are made taking these requirements into account. The maximum percentage of slope of the blind area should not exceed 10% according to SNiP III-10-75, and the deformation of the outer edge should not exceed 10 mm. The concrete used for the foundation blind area must meet the requirements of GOST 9128-97.

There are two main types of foundation blind area around the house:

• Concrete blind area (classic);
• Soft.

Concrete blind area around the house

There is no need to spare money on the foundation area, since the service life and how much money will be spent on repairs in the future will depend on the quality of the work done.
Design concrete blind area consists of two layers:

• Underlying. For the sealing base, fine crushed stone, sand and clay are used, the material is backfilled 2 cm thick;
• Final. This layer consists of small cobblestones, asphalt and concrete, the thickness of the coating is 10 cm.

Concrete blind area - step-by-step installation instructions

• At the first stage, it is necessary to prepare and outline the area for laying, the recommended width of the blind area is 70 cm;
• The soil is removed around the perimeter of the building and then compacted. The depth of soil removal will depend on the width of the foundation blind area. For a concrete protective structure, a 25 cm excavation will be required, which is approximately the length of a shovel;
• Often, when removing the top layer of soil, tree roots can be found; they need to be treated with herbicides so that the blind area system is not damaged in the future;
• Using 20 mm boards, formwork is built so that the earth is compacted and further subsidence does not occur;
• The first layer is sand;
• The second layer will be clay 10 cm high; after laying it, it must be compacted well and covered with the same layer of sand; water is used to compact the resulting structure. The sand that is located near the foundation needs to be compacted very well, but there is no need to overdo it, since there is clay underneath;
• Crushed stone with a layer of 7 cm is laid on top of the clay;
• In increments of 10 cm, the structure is reinforced using a mesh to strengthen the blind area. Good performance The concrete blind area has tensile and compressive loads;
• It is necessary not to forget during construction protective system about the expansion joint at the point of connection between the plinth and the blind area. The presence of a seam will prevent the foundation and plinth areas from collapsing in the future when the soil settles. The expansion joint is 1.5 cm and when the blind area settles, both the protective structure itself and the base will not be damaged; the resulting gap is filled with bitumen, sand and gravel;
• At the last stage of construction of the blind area, concrete is poured.

Soft blind area - features

An attractive appearance of a soft blind area, much concrete is better This is a good design, but here you need to be very careful during installation so that the beauty does not harm the foundation. The soft blind area consists of two layers: the top one is decorative, it completely allows water to pass through, which gets into the bottom layer onto the waterproofing film. In the classical design, the properties of the waterproofing film are performed by concrete.

Technology for constructing a soft blind area

Sequential algorithm:

• Clay is laid as the bottom layer over the entire width of the blind area with a slope of 10 cm. The clay must be clean, without any sand impurities, otherwise swelling of the protective structure of the foundation will occur. At 10 cm, the material is laid, followed by compaction and leveling;
• The waterproofing film is installed on top of the clay and attached to the surface of the foundation with a margin of 3-4 cm around the entire perimeter of the foundation. This will contribute to the integrity of the structure, even if the blind area moves away from the foundation. It is prohibited to use roofing felt as a waterproofing material, as it is not durable;
• The next 5 cm layer will be sand, it serves as waterproofing protection;
• Geotextiles made of propylene thread are laid across the entire width, the material prevents the ingress of sand and allows water to pass through well;
• Crushed stone is laid in a layer of 12-15 cm on top of textiles, which allows moisture to penetrate before waterproofing, and then flow away from the foundation system;
• Geotextiles are re-laid on crushed stone and then finishing occurs.

The material for finishing the blind area can be:

• decorative concrete;
• natural stone;
• tile;
• paving stones and so on, all at the discretion of the owners country house.

The design of the soft blind area will significantly increase the service life of the foundation, since it is not afraid of moisture and negative temperatures.

Blind area insulation technology

Several building materials can be used as thermal insulation for a soft foundation area:

• Polyurethane foam;
• Extruded polystyrene foam.

Often, when constructing a soft blind area around a house, extruded polystyrene foam is used, since this material has high strength, zero capillarity, easy installation and processing, long service life and is an environmentally friendly product.
Insulation with expanded polystyrene occurs in 1 layer of 100 mm sheets or 2 50 mm sheets. Above insulation material Polyethylene is installed for increased protection at the joints.

Repair of concrete blind area

If the technology for constructing the blind area and foundation has been followed, then repairs to the structures will not take a very long time and problems should not arise. But sometimes cracks form on the blind area; there are several ways to eliminate it:

• Small cracks are eliminated with a 1:1 cement mortar;
• Large damage to the blind area is cut down and cleaned, and then filled with mastic: BND-90/130 70% bitumen. Cracks filled with mastic are covered with sand on top;
• If there is significant damage to the concrete blind area around the house, repairs are required fresh concrete. The surface of the structure is cleaned and primed cement mortar 1:1. And while the concrete has not hardened, it needs to be leveled.

Repair work to eliminate cracks in the foundation blind area is recommended to be carried out in cool weather, when concrete expansion does not occur. Otherwise in sunny and hot weather the seams will narrow, which will not allow production high-quality repairs foundation blind areas.

In addition, it is used as a convenient pedestrian passage and decorative design when improving the area adjacent to the house. The use of dense or bulk insulation when constructing a blind area allows you to protect the foundation from exposure to low temperatures and reduce heat loss through building envelopes.

A fairly simple device like this protective coating solves simultaneously several important problems related to protection and improvement, without requiring large financial investments. At the same time, you can do it yourself, without inviting specialist builders for this.

The installation of a blind area around the house is done immediately after finishing the exterior walls of the building, but before finishing the basement begins. This is due to the need to block the expansion joint between the wall and the path covering from rainwater due to the protruding surface of the base hanging over it.

For piles, deep columnar and screw foundations the presence of a blind area is not mandatory, but it is often made as an element of landscaping and as a convenient walking path.

Design of the blind area

Protective coating must be done around the entire perimeter of the house, since it is necessary to protect the entire foundation mass. The basic requirements on how to properly make a blind area around a house with your own hands are set out in SNiP 2.02.01-83, which states that on normal soils its width should be at least 600 mm, and on subsidence soils - at least a meter. In general, the width of the covering should extend at least 200 mm beyond the protruding roof section. The maximum width is not regulated.

General drawing of the blind area.

The hard covering must be laid on a dense base with a thickness of at least 15 cm. The slope of the blind area from the building is not less than 0.03%, with the lower edge exceeding the planning mark by more than 5 cm. Storm water drainage must be carried out in storm sewer or trays.

A high-quality insulated blind area should consist of three main layers:

• surface waterproof;
• underlying gravel or a mixture of crushed stone and sand;
• insulating polystyrene foam.

Can be used as an additional layer, which will be sufficient reliable waterproofing from groundwater rising in the spring, and will also prevent the possible germination of weeds.

Top layer coating materials

The materials used for the top layer when constructing a blind area are quite diverse and have their own distinctive features. The simplest and most inexpensive is ordinary clay. With its help you can create a fairly reliable hydraulic lock. This type of defense is often found in rural areas. However, modern developers have long abandoned such primitive materials and use more efficient technologies.

Options.

The most common option on how to make a blind area is a device concrete covering. You can simply and quickly install it yourself without investing large amounts of money. At the same time, concrete is characterized by high strength and durability, and also allows it to be subsequently covered with paving slabs to improve its appearance.

The blind area is finished with paving slabs using a cement-sand mixture or mortar. Most often it is used to create a single color ensemble with the decoration of a building or its decorative elements. It is also quite durable.

The paving stones can be laid on a compacted sand bed. It has a beautiful appearance, but is more expensive than tiles and is somewhat more expensive. When using paving stones, it is necessary to ensure that the top layer is completely sealed.

Sectional diagram of a concrete blind area.

Construction of a blind area from natural stone It looks very nice and will last for many years without repair. However high cost material reduces the possibility of its widespread use.

Asphalt due unpleasant odor Rarely used in hot weather. In addition, this type is not very durable, and buying a factory one is much more expensive than installing a concrete screed.

DIY concrete blind area

To install a concrete protective coating, you will need the following materials:

• cement grade PC400 or PC500;
• river or washed sand;
• gravel or crushed stone fraction up to 40 mm;
• expanded polystyrene insulation boards;
• board and bitumen for treating it from rotting;
• reinforcing mesh with a cell of 100x100 mm;
• clay or geotextile.

From tools and construction equipment you need to prepare:

• or manual tamper;
• bayonet and shovel shovels;
• wide bucket for concrete;
• building level;
• plaster rule;
• mason's trowel;
• hacksaw and hammer.

The work begins with marking the future coating. Its dimensions were mentioned above. After the final marking for the width of the path, the top layer of soil should be removed to a depth of 25-30 cm, and the bottom compacted.

Next, you need to spread a geotextile fabric along the bottom of the trench or arrange a hydraulic lock 5-7 cm thick from compacted clay. Pour a 4-5 cm layer of sand onto the geotextile or clay and compact it too. Sand is needed so that the sharp edges of the crushed stone do not damage the integrity of the waterproofing layer.

Now from boards or other sheet material needs to be assembled and installed removable formwork along the edge of the trench. Its height should be 5 cm higher than the planning level of the adjacent territory. After this, you should fill and compact a layer of crushed stone with gravel 7-8 cm thick and sprinkle it with a little sand. This layer of sand is needed so that when pouring the concrete mixture, the cement mortar does not go into the voids left between the stones.

When installing a concrete coating, it is necessary to provide expansion joints 1-2 cm wide. They will compensate for the thermal expansion of the concrete layer in hot weather and prevent its possible rupture during strong cooling. To do this, along the wall of the house along the entire perimeter of the base, using bitumen, you need to glue a layer of roofing material or waterproofing 1-2 cm thick. Instead of rolled materials, you can use a porous rope made of foamed polyethylene.

Formwork drawing.

In addition, every 2-3 meters, as well as at all corners of the building across the blind area, pieces of boards 2-3 cm thick should be installed on the edge, which, after pouring the concrete, will provide compensation for possible expansions.

Before installation, the wood must be treated with a bitumen compound to protect it from moisture and rot. Transverse compensation slats must be installed in such a way that their upper edge corresponds to the future concrete surface.

Brand of concrete and its pouring into formwork

To increase the strength of the concrete layer, it is recommended to reinforce it with a metal mesh with a cell size of 10x10 cm. If you have an old rod or wire with a diameter of 5-8 mm, then you can use this material, but all individual elements must be connected to each other.

After the formwork has been installed, the reinforcing mesh has been laid, and the bulk layers have been compacted, you can begin preparing the concrete mixture and pouring it. A strong and durable coating can be obtained using concrete grades M200-250.

You can buy it ready-made with delivery to the site or make it yourself, 1 part cement, 2.5 parts sand and 4 parts gravel. Water is poured into the mixer last and added gradually until a homogeneous mass of medium thickness is obtained.

The finished concrete mixture is placed inside the formwork on top of the reinforcing mesh so that its edge rises slightly above ground level, and the slope of the blind area is at least 3% towards the building, i.e. For every 1 meter of width there should be a 3 cm increase in level.

Leveling the surface should be done using a plaster rule and a trowel. It is necessary to always check for slope using a building level.

Concrete mix proportions.

A more durable surface can be obtained by using iron plating. To do this, the surface of the wet concrete that has not yet set must be sprinkled with dry cement and, using a wide spatula, rub it into the solution. If such finishing of the blind area near the house occurs by sifting cement through a sieve, then you will not have to rub it in; it will be distributed evenly without this.

In hot and dry weather, it is recommended to cover the poured concrete layer with a wet cloth and periodically water it with water to ensure that the material sets and does not dry out. The initial setting time of the concrete mixture is 72-96 hours. After this, you can stand on it without damaging the surface.

Blind area made of paving slabs

Since the coating is made of paving slabs is not as strong as a concrete monolith, then the base for its laying is made more dense, having a rather thick layer of compacted clay as the bottom base, and a cement-sand mixture on top, on which the tiles are laid.

Scheme with paving slabs.

The depth of the trenches for making the blind area in this case is dug deeper than for a concrete blind area. In order for the buried layers of pain to be more stable, a trench 40-45 cm deep is required.

A layer of clay 20-30 cm thick is laid and compacted at its bottom, which will protect the base from the penetration of groundwater rising in the spring. A border is placed on the clay layer along the edge of the trench, the upper edge of which will not exceed the level of laying the tiles along the edge of the blind area.

After this, a layer of crushed stone or gravel 10-15 cm thick is poured and compacted well. The top layer of gravel should be approximately at ground level. A layer of geotextile is spread on the stone as protection against the germination of weeds, and paving slabs are laid over it, on a layer of cement-sand mixture.

Blind area made of paving stones

Differing from paving slabs in their greater thickness and better stability, paving stones can simply be laid on a dense bed of sand. To do this, it is enough to dig a trench 15 cm deep, spread geotextiles on the bottom, and fill in a layer of sand that does not reach the top of the trench. After this, you need to lay the paving stones, adding sand if necessary.

To ensure the tightness of the top layer, all seams between the stones must be carefully sealed with a cement-sand mixture or cement mortar. The border should not extend beyond the top level of the covering.

Soft blind area

Option with crushed stone.

TO soft species coverings include a blind area made of crushed stone and other multi-layer coverings having cobblestones, gravel, pebbles and other bulk materials as the top layer, under which there is a layer of clay or sand covered plastic film. This is the most inexpensive type of covering and it is very simple to make, but such a blind area made of crushed stone lasts no more than 5 years. After this, it is necessary to resolve the issue of protecting the foundation again.

A very important point when installing a soft structure is the presence of a slope of the waterproofing layer made of polyethylene or clay. This is necessary because in this system, water is removed not by the surface coating, which allows it to pass through, but by the waterproofing layer.

Installation of an insulated system

The insulated blind area protects building structures foundation from the effects of low temperatures and significantly reduces heat loss from the building. A material of sufficient density, strength, hydrophobic and not subject to rotting should be used as insulation. Polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam best meet these conditions.

Photo of a properly insulated blind area of ​​a house.

The insulation process consists of three stages, which are included in general composition work on constructing a blind area around the building. First, a layer of waterproofing in the form of roofing felt or waterproofing material is laid on a thin sand cushion or compacted clay, with some of the material placed on the side walls.

Then the vertical basement wall is insulated by attaching sheets of thermal insulation to it. When installing sheets vertically, it is necessary to ensure a connection between them in a protruding groove. In cases where this is not possible, the seams should be sealed with polyurethane foam.

A horizontal layer of insulation is laid on the bottom layer of clay or sand base. To reduce the cost of purchasing materials, you can use the first layer of polystyrene foam as insulation, and lay more durable polystyrene foam on it. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the seams between the individual sheets do not coincide vertically.

The further procedure for how to properly make a blind area is no different from what was described above.

There is an opinion that the insulation of such a structure can be ensured by filling it with a layer of expanded clay instead of crushed stone. This opinion is not entirely correct. There are air gaps in the layer of bulk expanded clay, in which moisture will accumulate over time, and thermal insulation properties of such a layer will be greatly reduced. If you use expanded clay concrete, then required thickness The layer will be very large and all savings will be lost.

Operation and repair of the blind area

Over time, the surface of the concrete pavement may develop cracks or other damage. This most often occurs as a result of soil subsidence, incorrectly selected width of expansion joints, or the use of low-quality materials and for other reasons. Repairs to such damage can be done using a mixture of bitumen primer, asbestos and sand.

Market cost of blind area installation services.

Initially, the crack expands somewhat and is cleaned of debris and dirt using a water jet. Then you need to let it dry and fill it with the prepared mixture.

Damages that are too large must be extended to the right size, wetted with water and restored by pouring new concrete. If necessary, the damage volume is reinforced with steel wire or rod. After the concrete mixture has hardened, the restored areas must be treated with a primer.

The blind area around the house is a special structure that is designed to remove precipitation and protect the foundation from premature destruction. Also, a blind area is necessary in conditions of heaving soil or in areas with high level groundwater, which can erode the foundation. Let's take a closer look at how the blind area is done with your own hands, as well as which options for its implementation are most effective.

In addition to protecting the foundation, the blind area also performs practical and design functions. Very often it is used as a path, so it must have sufficient hardness and abrasion resistance. When choosing a blind area option, you should also consider landscape design and the exterior of the house. Correct blind area around the house helps to highlight architectural style buildings, make local area more accurate and practical.

The pouring of the blind area can be carried out simultaneously with the construction of the foundation. However, it can be made after finishing finishing works. If you neglect this point, over time, cracks may appear in the foundation, and the thermal insulation performance of the structure will decrease. Thus, the role of the blind area at home should not be underestimated. This is one of the main stages of building a house, which directly affects the quality of the structure.

Construction of a blind area around the house

Before you start building a blind area with your own hands, you need to decide on the materials from which it will be made. Most often, concrete, asphalt, bricks, wood, reinforced concrete slabs or tiles. The correct blind area around the house must have at least two layers. The top layer contains the main coating, and the bottom is a cushion of sand, small crushed stone, grit or clay.

Ideally, the installation of a blind area around the house should be carried out simultaneously with the foundation. The width of the blind area should be about 80 - 100 cm or 20 - 30 cm more than the cornice. The wider the blind area, the faster the water drains. In this case, you should remember the slope, which should be 3 – 7ᵒС. Along the perimeter of the blind area you can make a small drainage ditch. This will prevent water from stagnating during heavy rainfalls or when snow melts.

How to make a blind area with your own hands

Making a blind area with your own hands is quite easy. The construction process does not require special knowledge and is carried out in several stages:

1. Preparing the base.

Installing a blind area with your own hands begins with leveling the surface, removing plant roots, removing the top layer of soil with a shovel and treating the soil with herbicides. It is necessary to install boundary boards around the perimeter and make a sand cushion. To do this, a layer of sand is poured onto the prepared surface, compacted and filled with water. Next, a layer of crushed stone or broken brick is poured.

1. Waterproofing and insulation.

Insulating the blind area allows you to increase the thermal insulation of the foundation, which is especially important if the house has a cellar or basement. Polystyrene, foam glass or penoplex can be used as insulation. Air gap between the concrete layer and the ground can reach 15 cm. The blind area is waterproofed using PVC film, bitumen or roofing felt.

1. Installation of temperature cuts.

Temperature cuts can be made using rain gutters or flat slate. It is necessary to leave an expansion joint between the wall and the blind area by placing roofing material, sealant or bitumen in it.

1. Pouring concrete.

Concrete for a blind area can be made by combining 0.5 shares of water, 1 share of cement, 3 shares of sand and 4 shares of crushed stone. It is better to take grade M-300 cement. Filling is carried out carefully within the boundary boards.

1. Ironing.

15 - 20 minutes after pouring the solution, the surface is sprinkled with dry cement and smoothed with a spatula. Thanks to this technique, the blind area is stronger, smoother and more moisture-resistant.

The installation of a blind area around the house can be made from concrete slabs. As in the first option, the base is prepared for this, after which the finished slabs are laid out and bitumen is poured. Also, recently, profiled membranes have become increasingly popular, which are placed directly on the ground, covered with crushed stone and sand, after which any covering is installed.

Alternative options for home blind area

The most popular option in our country is a concrete blind area 15 cm thick. If previously this type of blind area was the most affordable, now a wide variety has appeared building materials, insulation and waterproofing films, with the help of which cost of blind area around the house can be significantly reduced. Let's look at a few alternative options installing a blind area with your own hands.

Soft blind area for difficult soils

Soft blind area is one of the most simple options blind area devices, which can be used for heaving soils. It is performed in several stages.

Blind area with rubemast

Rubemast is inexpensive waterproofing material, made on the basis of fiberglass or fiberglass with bitumen impregnation. Using rubemast, you can build a high-quality blind area, adhering to the following action plan:

Geotextile blind area to protect against weeds

Installation of a blind area made of geotextiles is carried out in several stages:

Construction of a blind area in Finnish

This type of blind area is widely used in the construction of Finnish houses. It is radically different from the technologies familiar in our area and is carried out according to the following principle:

1. A corrugated pipe with holes is laid around the perimeter of the house.
2. Gravel is poured over the pipe, foam is installed overlapping and filled with soil.
3. Next, the pipe is connected to drain wells.
4. Crushed stone and decorative pebbles are poured at a distance of about 40 cm from the walls of the building.

The Finnish blind area is quite effective, drains water well and prevents freezing of the foundation.

Russian blind area - cheap and cheerful

This version of the blind area is very unusual and was invented by Russian craftsmen. It is performed using glass bottles in several stages:

1. It is poured onto a small sand cushion thin layer concrete.
2. Next, the usual glass bottles, and the next layer of concrete is poured.
3. After this, reinforcement is performed, and the next layer of concrete blind area is poured. If necessary, the surface is subjected to ironing, i.e. sprinkled with dry cement.

The advantage of this technique is the absence of expansion joints and low concrete consumption. In addition, the bottles are left air gap in the blind area, increasing its thermal insulation without additional insulation.

In general, there are quite a lot of options for making a blind area around the house. If desired, it can be made at different heights, decorated with natural or artificial stone, tiles, or covered with pebbles or crushed stone.

Video Blind area device

There is a popular story about formwork devices and blind area pouring.

This article will help you learn about the construction of a blind area around the house. We will try to tell you how to properly make a good concrete edge around your house, and also give examples of existing types. In addition, we would like to draw attention to the most important points the technology of this device and how to operate it, and we will also tell you about its repair.

After you read the entire instruction article, you will understand for yourself what the most correct one should look like. You can also choose the most suitable composition, look and design for yourself.

• First of all, it serves to protect against flood and rain water along the entire perimeter of your house, as well as to prevent subsidence of the foundation, right down to the facade.
• It also serves as decorative element for external improvement, since it plays the role sidewalk path around the building, it must be at least 90 centimeters wide!

When to do it

As a rule, you need to start construction immediately after you have lined the base and. But, unfortunately, most owners do not at all attach such obligatory construction of great importance, so they postpone the moment of arranging the house with a blind area for several years.

What happens if you don’t make a blind area?

If this is not done in time, then groundwater will be able to penetrate completely freely into the foundation of the house, and as a result can lead to erosion. Such unfavorability can create cracks in the foundation or walls of your home. In addition, there are some other serious consequences that can easily lead to problems if there is no blind area and the house itself stands on heaving soils. By the way, it is very dangerous to leave such a house in winter if there is no concrete edge around it. All this is explained by the fact that heaving soils are saturated with water, which then freezes and can put uneven pressure on house structures, gradually destroying them. That is why, when a house stands on such soils, it is necessary to equip it, and even better, if it is insulated.

Compound

As a rule, this is a device that consists of two parts: a covering and a layer for bedding.

The underlying layer serves to create an even, dense base for further laying of the coating on it. Only one type of such underlying layer performs practically the main function of the blind area, which is clay. But, at the same time, the underlying layer can still be made of sand, small crushed stone or gritsovka. Choice suitable material depends on what the top covering will be, but the thickness of the layer for the litter itself should be about 20 cm.

The covering of the blind area, first of all, must be moisture-proof, and it must also be difficult to wash away from water. For such purposes, small cobblestones, asphalt, concrete, clay or paving slabs are most often used. Less often, the role of both the covering and the underlying layer is played by a mixture of crushed stone with clay or sand with clay. The thickness of this layer should average from 5 to 10 cm.

Laying technology

Since the blind area must drain water away from the house, it should be laid around the house with a slight slope. Its slope may depend on the coating.

The width depends on the type of soil on which the house stands, as well as on the width eaves overhangs on the roof.

For example, on ordinary soils, the width should be 20 cm wider than the cornice, but not less than 60 cm, and in subsidence areas generally not less than 1 meter.

In the place where they connect to the wall, it is necessary to make an expansion joint, the width of which should be 1-2 cm. Sometimes experts even recommend sealing such joints with sand, but for this purpose 2 layers of sealant or bitumen are best suited.

If the foundation of your house has waterproofing, then it can be brought up to the level of the blind area. To connect it to the walls or base, it is important to know that this cannot be done tightly, since if it shrinks, even slightly, the cladding material can easily crumble or crack.

Main stages of the device

The device begins by making a hole in the ground around the house to a depth that is equal to the width of the underlying layer + covering (about 25-30 cm).

It is necessary to treat with special herbicides that will help get rid of weed roots, because if this is not done, then they can simply destroy the coating. It is necessary to install a curb stone along the outer edge of the blind area.

Immediately after this, the first underlying layer is laid, which must be thoroughly compacted. On this layer you need to lay a covering for the blind area. Since all types of coating have own characteristics in installation, you need to consider each option separately.

A small stone or cobblestone, which has a height of about 4-10 cm, must be laid on the underlying first layer of fine crushed stone or sand. The gaps that have arisen between the cobblestones must be filled with sand.

Paving slabs

Pavement slabs (from 4 to 8 cm) are laid on the same first layer of bedding as cobblestones, and the gaps are also filled with sand. To make installation convenient, the width of the blind area must be determined based on the size of the slabs that will be laid, and, as a rule, it is necessary that 1-2 rows of slabs fit in width. This type of paving slab coating has several advantages. For example, a long service life, as well as the ability to partially replace them if necessary. To extend the life of such a coating, you can lay the slabs with a 90° rotation, where the water drainage points are located.

Clay

Clay (from 10 to 15 cm) is placed on the first layer of carefully compacted sand, up to 10 cm high. In addition, to increase the strength of the base, another cobblestone is sunk into the sand.

Concrete

Today, concrete coating is considered the most popular. The underlying layer on ordinary soils is made of clay 10-15 cm high, but on heaving soils you can lay sand in addition to clay. By the way, in this case, sand serves as a shock absorber between the covering of the blind area and the heaving base. If you plan to lay concrete in the coating, then after laying the first layer, you need to make expansion joints. This feature will protect it from ruptures in the cold.

The solid concrete edging of a house can collapse even during the first winter, so as seams it is better to put wooden slats on the edge, which must be coated with bitumen in advance and laid at a distance of 2.5 -3 m. The upper surface wooden slats it is important to place it at the concrete level, taking into account the slope of the blind area from the house. After such work, it is necessary to lay the concrete, and the slats will serve as beacons, along which it will be easier to lay the concrete mixture evenly. To improve moisture resistance, it needs to be well ironed. For such work, it is necessary to sprinkle the still wet concrete surface with cement, and then smooth it with an iron trowel. Then the surface should be covered with a wet cloth and left for about a week, periodically pouring water from a watering can on it.

To increase the service life of our structure, which is installed on heaving soils, it must be reinforced. This procedure will make our structure work in both tension and compression. The reinforcement will work in tension, and the concrete will work in compression. This reinforcement can be done using special metal mesh, which has cells of 100x100 mm, but at the same time leaving space for expansion joints at a distance of 2-2.5 m.

Asphalt concrete

Crushed stone (15 cm) must be laid in a pre-compacted trench, and an asphalt coating on top of it. A device for a blind area made of asphalt concrete is quite simple; unfortunately, this option is not the most environmentally friendly, because at high temperatures outside, asphalt releases substances that are very harmful to the human body.

Moisture-permeable blind area

If drainage is made around the perimeter of the entire house, then the blind area can be made moisture-permeable. This option will be the easiest to implement, because in a trench with a compacted base, first of all, specialized geotextile material is laid, on which 10 cm of crushed stone, gravel pebbles or expanded clay must be laid. This material largely prevents the covering from sinking into the base, and therefore it will protect the blind area from subsidence. If the device is made of a homogeneous material, you should pay attention to the fact that it will then be difficult to compact it, and therefore it will be uncomfortable to walk on it.

In addition, if you do not organize drainage from the roof, then such covering will need to be corrected regularly.

Thermal insulation

As we already said at the beginning of this article, the blind area for a house located on heaving soils must be insulated. All this is due to the fact that heaving soil can become saturated with water, and therefore it can freeze and swell unevenly, putting pressure on the house, destroying its structure. The insulation does not allow the soil to freeze around the perimeter, so it prevents heaving. For such purposes, it is best to use thermal insulation material that is not capable of absorbing moisture, for example, such a material is extruded polystyrene foam. It is laid between two layers of blind area around your house. But this insulation You cannot load it too much, so it is better to use concrete, tiles or cobblestones as a covering. But it is not recommended to use gravel, crushed stone, pebbles or expanded clay for coating.

Repair

If you find that the blind area is damaged, then it is important to repair it as soon as possible to prevent their massive spread. Repair begins by identifying the boundaries where it was damaged. Moreover, several small cracks or potholes can be combined into one plane.

The covering, which was made of asphalt concrete and was damaged, must be cut down to its full depth with wedges, and then cleaned of dirt and dust. The walls, bottom and edges should be lubricated with liquefied and slightly viscous bitumen, after which asphalt concrete should be laid and compacted using hand roller. Asphalt concrete must be rolled from the edges to the middle, since this will create a uniform surface. Asphalt concrete is laid above the old surface, as this provides a connection between the existing area and the new one.

When repairing potholes, cracks or peeling that have appeared in a blind area with a cement concrete coating, you can use rubber-bitumen mastics, sealing pastes, solutions of cement and sand, or fine-grained concrete mixtures. Preparatory work is carried out in the same way as when working with asphalt concrete blind areas. Seams that are cleared of cracks must be filled with mastic with bitumen (60-80%), crushed slag (10-15%) and asbestos (10-20%). The cracks that you have repaired should be sprinkled with sand, but small cracks should be filled with liquid cement mortar.

If the blind area around the perimeter of the house has been severely damaged, then the coating can be restored with concrete, but only after you have cleaned it well and also primed it with a cement solution. The concrete that you have just laid should be covered with a polyethylene film or a damp tarp so that it dries evenly.

It is best to repair the blind area in the fall or spring, when it is cool outside, or in the summer, but only in the morning, when the cracks and seams no longer open.

Due to geological features, the house is exposed to external factors not only from the atmosphere, but also from the soil. Installing a blind area around the house is one of the stages of comprehensive protection that allows you to protect the building from the manifestations of nature (rain, melt, groundwater). The roof and drainage system protect the walls and the house itself from water, but precipitation flows onto the ground near the building and destroys the foundation. What is a blind area? Why do you need a foundation blind area, what is its purpose and how to do it yourself?

What is a blind area at home

A blind area is a covering around the perimeter of a house, designed to protect the foundation, basement and basement from water. It is made of waterproof material at a slope from the foundation.

Why do you need a blind area around the house (functions):

• hydrobarrier - protecting the foundation of a building from moisture. First of all, rain and melt water are diverted away from the foundation using a blind area. In addition, the presence of a blind area imparts thermal insulation properties to the foundation;

• comfort - the blind area can be used as a path around the house. A wide blind area can become the basis for arranging a recreation area or terrace near the house. With the correct calculation of the load, it is possible to organize the movement of a car or its parking along the blind area;

• aesthetics - design of the site and local area, giving the structure completeness.

• the blind area stabilizes the air-gas regime in the soil surrounding the foundation. The soil invariably contains oxygen, which is necessary for plant growth and the vital activity of soil microorganisms. Large pests also create passages for air to enter the soil;

• eliminates the possibility of damage to the foundation due to frost heaving of soils. It occurs due to the fact that water, solidifying in the soil during the cold season, increases its volume. Soil heaving in itself does not pose any threat, but it creates a significant lateral load on the foundation of the house, which can result in a distortion of the foundation of the house, which will ultimately lead to the destruction of the building standing on it. Thus, the blind area allows you to distribute the load more evenly.

Types of blind areas around the house

Taking into account the fact that the period of operation of the blind area should be equal to the period of operation of the structure itself, special attention should be paid to the choice of material for its construction.

In practice, several approaches to making a blind area are used, but in general it is classified as either hard or soft.

Hard blind area

1. Concrete blind area

The blind area is made of concrete in the vast majority of cases. Concrete is a reliable material, time-tested and proven by more than one generation of users. Almost every man has an idea of ​​how to make a concrete blind area. And knowing the nuances of pouring it, he can do the work with his own hands.

It is mostly used to protect the foundations of multi-story buildings. This is caused by two factors. Firstly, the difficulty of compacting the material (considerable effort is required). Secondly, to keep the asphalt in a condition suitable for pouring, its temperature should be about 120 degrees. Agree, it is difficult to make a blind area from asphalt without special equipment. Thirdly, when heated, asphalt releases harmful impurities, and therefore few users are ready to replace the clean air of a country house with a typical urban aroma.

3. Blind area made of ceramic tiles

It is classified as hard because the tiles are laid on a concrete mortar. Clinker tiles are used as a facing material, as they are more resistant to external influences. This blind area copes well with its functions, but the cost of clinker tiles is high. Therefore, its analogue, concrete paving slabs, has become more widespread.

Soft blind area

4. Blind area made of paving slabs (paving stones)

A relatively new direction in protecting foundations from water. Despite the novelty of the material (or rather, the old one, since it is a prototype of paving stones - a cheaper analogue), laying paving slabs with your own hands does not cause any particular difficulties.

5. Blind area made of gravel (crushed stone) or natural stone

The gravel blind area (made of cobblestones, rubble stones) has not become popular for several reasons: the difficulty of compaction, the inconvenience of movement, the need to constantly correct the coating (it can be washed away by unorganized drainage), and the possibility of weeds sprouting. Stone blind area - good option, but more complex installation and high cost compared to tiles.

6. Hidden blind area around the house

In this case, the front material is the soil on which you can plant lawn grass, flowers, arrange flower beds. A blind area of ​​a hidden type is made according to the general principle: the top layer of soil is removed, a layer of waterproofing, a layer of sand and crushed stone are covered. The difference is that the top of the pie is covered with geotextile or PVP membrane, on top of which soil is poured. It is not advisable to walk on a hidden blind area; there is a risk of damaging the profiled membrane and trampling the grass. But, if done correctly, it will serve faithfully for a long time.

Which blind area is better - made of paving slabs or concrete?

Each of the above types of blind area has its own advantages, disadvantages and construction features. According to statistics and reviews, today the most popular (most often used) blind areas are poured from concrete and laid out from tiles. Therefore, it would be correct within the article to consider what is better, concrete or paving slabs for the blind area?

This question is asked by many craftsmen and users. Practical operating experience indicates the effectiveness of the tiles. The advantages are as follows:

• the ability to create a continuous, strong and stable blind area. At the same time, ensuring the integrity of a concrete blind area is much more difficult than a tiled one;

• maintainability. The tiles can be dismantled completely or partially. Thus, the process of repairing a blind area or laying communications is significantly simplified. In the case of concrete, it is necessary to destroy part of the blind area, dispose of the concrete fractions, and restore it again after laying. Eliminating tile subsidence or replacing a defective element in a tile blind area is not difficult and will not take much time. And most importantly, the tiles can be reused;

• reliability. The tiled blind area drains water well thanks to a large number seams. This allows us to assert that it does not deform as a result of soil heaving or water freezing. Water that has frozen on the surface of a concrete blind area can lead to local cracking of the material. At first, these cracks will not pose a threat, but each subsequent flooding will cause the crack to expand and the blind area to collapse.

  Another nuance is the location where the blind area adjoins the house. As you know, the blind area should not form a single structure from the foundations (should not be connected to it). Soil movement and freeze/thaw cycles will inevitably cause this bond to break. When laying tiles it is easier to ensure the required technological gap. In addition, the destruction of concrete most often occurs precisely at the place where it adjoins the foundation or plinth (the blind area comes off);

• foundation insulation. The technology for laying paving slabs involves the arrangement of several layers, incl. the use of clay and the possibility of laying insulation. An insulated foundation blind area is an additional protection for the basement, ground floor, which reduces heat loss and ultimately leads to savings on home heating;

• reduction in plinth height. With a rigid blind area (made of concrete), the minimum height of the plinth should be at least 500 mm. For soft surfaces (tiles, paving stones, gravel, natural stone), a height of 300 mm will be sufficient. This reduces the cost of installing a plinth;

• ease of work, no need for a reinforcing frame, minimum waste, minor dustiness of the work;

• additional waterproofing of the foundation blind area. While a concrete blind area protects the foundation only from the influence of surface water (rain or melt), a clay hydraulic lock, which is made by forming a cushion for laying paving slabs, allows you to protect the base of the building from groundwater;

• more aesthetically pleasing appearance compared to a concrete blind area. A variety of installation options, designs, sizes and colors allows you to create a unique blind area.

The main advantage that led to the use of concrete as a material for the blind area is its low cost. Buying paving slabs and materials for laying them will cost more, even if you do the installation yourself.

Cost of blind area of ​​a private house

In order not to be unfounded, we will give a brief comparative description, i.e. We will indicate in the table the prices for blind areas made of concrete and paving slabs. All prices for 2015, approximate, are presented for information purposes as a guideline for drawing up estimates.

The cost of a concrete blind area (width 1 m, thickness 10 cm)

Material	Material consumption per 1 sq.m.		Price	The cost of a concrete blind area per 1 sq.m. rub.
Concrete M22, class B-15	1		RUB 3,500	350
For self-cooking concrete
	per 1 cubic meter	For 1 sq.m.
Cement M 500	320 kg	32 kg	200 rub/50 kg	128
Screenings or crushed stone (fraction 5-10 mm)	0.8 cubic meters	0.08 cubic meters		160
Sand	0.5 cubic meters	0.05 cubic meters	400-600 rub/m3 (the price is also affected by the loading location: quarry or delivery)	30
Water	190 l	19 l	At local rate
Concrete additives*
For pillow
Geotextile, PVC film)	1 sq.m.		110-2500 rub/roll (50 sq.m.)	100
Sand	0.05-0.1 cubic meters Depending on the thickness of the layer and the composition of the finishing base for the tile		400-600 rub./m3.	25-50
	0.1 cubic meters		1800-2000 cubic meters (the price is also affected by the loading location: quarry or delivery)	190
Reinforcement
Fittings, diameter 6 mm.	12 m.p.		10 r/m.p.	120
Reinforcing mesh 50x50, diameter 3 mm.	1 sq.m.		60 rub./piece (1000x2000)	60
Reinforcing mesh 150x150, diameter 3 mm.	1 sq.m.		33 RUR/piece (500x2000)	66
Formwork installation
Boards for formwork**
Beam 30x30 for spacers**
Total:				~ 800 rub/sq.m.

* We are talking about additives (plasticizers) that give concrete additional properties (strength, frost resistance). Adding plasticizers to the composition concrete mortar is at the discretion of the master. In the “classic” recipe given, their cost is not taken into account.

** to form the formwork when pouring a blind area, in practice, old boards or used plywood are used. Therefore, their cost is also taken into account.

The cost of a blind area made of paving slabs 1 meter wide

Material	Material consumption per 1 sq.m.	Price	The cost of a blind area made of paving slabs per 1 sq.m. rub.
For pillow
Clay	Depends on the soil and the desired thickness of the hydraulic lock 0.05-0.1 cubic meters.	250-400 rub/m3. (depending on the location of the quarry and the fat content of the clay)	15-30
Geotextiles, PVC film	1 sq.m.	110-2500 rub/roll (50 sq.m.)	100
Sand	0.15-0.2 cubic meters Depending on the thickness of the layer and the composition of the finishing base for the tile	400-600 rub/m3	75-100
Screenings or crushed stone (fraction 3-10 mm)	0.1 cubic meters	1800-2000 cubic meters (the price is also affected by the loading location: quarry or delivery)	190
For the finishing layer
Cement M 500	10 kg. Depends on the purpose of the formwork	500 rub/50 kg	100
Sifted sand	2.5 - 10 kg. Depends on the purpose of the formwork	100 rub/50 kg	10
For the front layer
Tile	Depends on the size of the tile. 50 pcs. for the “brick” shape	300-1,500 RUR/piece. on average 400 rubles. for the “brick” shape	2000
Border	2 pcs.	75-300 rub/piece. depending on thickness	360
Water for irrigation sands and blind areas	Before puddles form	At local rate
Total:			~ 3000 rub/sq.m

How long does it take to install a blind area?

An important point, based on the experience of constructing blind areas of various types, we can give the approximate time for the construction of each of them. The calculation was made based on the total time spent by one person on making a blind area of ​​50 square meters.

• Completion of all work on preparing the base, forming the formwork and pouring the concrete blind area takes approximately 40-50 minutes. per 1 sq.m. (20-25 minutes when using ready-made concrete).

• Filling the pillow and laying tiles 1 sq.m. takes 60-70 minutes. Moreover, a significant amount of time is spent on the process of compacting the base.

It should be noted that with increasing square meters (area), the speed of work increases.

How to make a blind area around the house with your own hands - video

Construction of a blind area for a house - SNiP and GOST

The second aspect that needs to be taken into account before you start building a blind area with your own hands is the provisions and recommendations of regulatory documents. These include:

GOST 9128-97. Mixtures of asphalt concrete road, airfield and asphalt concrete. Contains recommendations on determining the angle of inclination of the blind area.

GOST 7473-94. Concrete mixtures. They contain requirements for the quality of concrete used for arranging the blind area. Required when arranging a blind area that serves as a driveway for a car.

SNiP 2.04.02-84. Water supply. External networks and structures. SNiP regulates the construction of a blind area around a well, contains recommendations for choosing the angle of inclination, as well as for arranging a castle made of clay or rich loam.

SNiP 2.02.01-83 Foundations of buildings and structures. Regulates the main parameters of the blind area device (dimensions):

1. Width of the blind area around the house (foundation)

Determined from the position of soil type. As you know, soil with different compositions subsides differently. For example, clay soil is divided into two types:

• Type 1 soil does not sag under its own weight or its subsidence is no more than 50 mm and can be caused by external factors.

• Type 2 soil can sag under its own weight.

Thus, based on soil data, the composition and thickness of the base layers for laying paving slabs is selected. Based on the provisions of SNiP, craftsmen determine how wide the blind area around the house should be.

It has been verified by practice that for type 1 soil the minimum width of the blind area should be at least 700 mm, for type 2 - at least 1,000 mm.

If there is normal soil on the site, the optimal width of the blind area can be 800-1,000 mm. In this case, the width can be considered sufficient if it is greater than the overhang roofing material over load-bearing walls by 200 mm (for normal soil) and 600 mm for clay soil Type 2.

The final decision on how wide the foundation blind area should be depends on the users and the purpose of the blind area. Which may consist of the following: only foundation protection, protection + occasional human movement, protection + heavy pedestrian traffic (for example, a terrace or gazebo) or protection + car traffic.

Such parameters as the length and height (thickness) of the blind area are not regulated by SNiP. Users advise taking them as:

2. Length of the blind area around the house

3. Thickness (height) of the blind area around the house

Minimum thickness of the blind area: no less than 70 mm, optimally 100-150 mm.

Note. The height of the blind area is not determined to zero. It should rise above the soil by at least 50 mm.

For the blind area that serves as a pedestrian zone, the requirements are becoming more stringent. They mainly concern the design of the pillow. For a car zone, it is advisable to make the most durable base possible and, when choosing paving slabs, give preference not to vibrocast slabs, but to vibropressed ones.

SNiP III-10-75 Landscaping. The standard regulates the installation location of the blind area. It should fit tightly to the base at an angle. At the same time, the slope of the blind area should be within 1-10% in the direction opposite to the load-bearing wall.

4. Slope of the blind area of ​​the house

The angle of inclination of the blind area is measured in percentages and degrees. For 1 m of blind area width, the slope should be 10-100 mm, i.e. 1-10%. In practice, the slope does not exceed 15-20 mm per 1 linear meter. This slope is invisible visually, but does an excellent job of draining water from the foundation and base of the house.

Note. A large slope can lead to the fact that the flow of water will increase speed when moving along the blind area and, gaining strength, quickly destroy its outer edge.

Another document worth considering is the “Schemes operational control quality of construction, repair, construction and installation works.” Based on it you can study permissible deviations from the given standards.

5. Expansion joint in the blind area (deformation, temperature)

To compensate for the movement of the blind area and reduce the pressure on the foundation, a device is provided expansion joint– the gap between the wall (basement) and the blind area. A thermal seam is formed by installing vertical surface a sheet of insulation or several layers of roofing material. Sometimes at the junction they install wooden board, which is then removed, and the place where it is installed is sealed (covered) with sand. This is a labor-intensive method, because removing a board from hardened concrete is quite difficult.

Conclusion

The information provided from the theoretical part will become a useful basis for constructing a blind area around the house with your own hands. Knowing how to properly make a blind area, you can be sure that the created structure will last a long time and effectively.