Do-it-yourself installation of metal-plastic pipes. Do-it-yourself installation of water supply from metal-plastic pipes on press fittings. Features of metal-plastic products

In order to install a water supply system, it is not at all necessary to always resort to the expensive services of specialists. The article describes the installation sequence step by step metal-plastic pipes for DIY plumbing when renovating a bathroom. Using it, you will do similar work yourself.

Properties of metal-plastic pipes

Metal-plastic pipes are currently widely used for the installation of pipelines for heating and water supply systems. Compared to traditional steel, they have several valuable properties, due to which they are most often used:

metal-plastic pipes do not rust and their inner surface no deposits are formed;
have a long service life, manufacturers guarantee a service life of up to 50 years;
simple and technological installation does not require special qualifications from the performer;
relatively low price of materials and installation costs.

For installation of water supply major renovation For the bathroom, the customer chose from several alternative options metal-plastic pipes with connections using press fittings.

Preparation for installation

We come up with the configuration of the future water supply system. It was decided that the use of collectors was not practical. This makes the pipeline more expensive, but does not provide any operational advantages. Therefore, they decided to make pipeline branches to individual water collection points using tees.

After purchasing all the necessary fittings, we laid them out on the floor in the order in which they would be connected in the pipeline. This “rehearsal” made it possible to make sure that all fittings were purchased correctly.

For installation of the water supply we have prepared the following tools and auxiliary materials:

Special scissors for cutting plastic and calibrator.
Press pliers for crimping connections.
Adjustable and gas wrenches.
Flax and sealing paste.

Before the installation of the pipeline in the bathroom began, the necessary preparatory work was done. All the old plumbing was dismantled along with the pipes, the walls were plastered with the preliminary installation of beacons. After the plaster had dried, sufficiently loose grooves for the pipes were cut into the wall.

Installation of water supply

Connecting pipes with press fittings involves two operations:

Use scissors to cut the pipe to the required length. Using a calibrator, we correct the shape of the cut and chamfer simultaneously from the outer and inner surfaces of the pipe.
Insert the pipe into the fitting sleeve until it stops. The end of the pipe should be visible through special inspection holes. Use pliers to crimp the fitting twice.

The photograph shows that as a result of crimping, two annular compressions are formed on the sleeve.

To simplify the work, we first assemble the individual parts of the water pipe. For example, we crimp water sockets for installing a mixer and attach them to a special mounting plate.

We install the prepared pieces of pipeline in their appropriate place and secure them. The mounting strips are attached to the wall using dowels and screws, the pipes are carefully bent and laid into the grooves.

We connect the assembled parts of the water supply system into a single whole on site. The crimping pliers device allows you to rotate the tool handles into a position convenient for work.

We continue to sequentially install all parts of the water supply and connect it to the hot and cold water risers. To make it possible to replace water meters and taps in the future, we make the connection of the pipeline to the meters collapsible, using “American” ones.

The entire work of installing the pipeline from metal-plastic pipes took an hour and a half. Upon completion of installation, we put plugs on all water outlets, opened the taps on the risers and left the pipeline with water under pressure for several days. The grooves were not covered to check the connections for leaks. Work on finishing the bathroom continued at this time.

The installed water supply system turned out to be airtight: there were no leaks in any connection. You can fill the grooves with plaster and finish tiling the walls.

Helpful Tips:

The connection on press fittings is non-separable. If there is an error, it cannot be redone. It is useful to have a few spare fittings in case this happens.
You don’t have to buy press jaws; you can rent them.
Metal-plastic pipes must be bent with caution. If the pipe wall becomes damaged during bending, the pipe should be replaced.
To prevent the pipe from experiencing excessive stress under the plaster when heating and cooling from water, it is better not to smear it directly into the plaster: place an electric corrugation on the pipe. For a pipe with a diameter of 16 mm, a 25 mm corrugation is ideal.

We hope the article will be useful to you, and you will be able to install a pipeline from a metal-plastic pipe with a connection using press fittings yourself.

If you plan to install metal-plastic pipes yourself, you need to know exactly what you are doing, since the material is expensive. Let's consider the features of plastic pipelines, laying technology, possible methods of bending, cutting and laying, types of fastenings.

Metal-plastic structures are plastic, but you need to work with them carefully

Characteristics of metal-plastic pipes

Metal-plastic products consist of 5 structural layers:

The inner surface is made of molecularly compacted polyethylene or cross-linked polyethylene layers.
An adhesive layer that bonds polyethylene to an aluminum layer.
Aluminum layer.
The second layer of glue holding the aluminum element together outer covering.
External plastic covering.

In construction, metal-plastic products are popular due to their strength. The polymer layer protects the pipeline from corrosive destruction. Aluminum in the composition is the key to plasticity and shape retention during operation. When calculating footage, precision to mm is not required. All these characteristics together allow for the rapid installation of metal-plastic pipes in structures of any complexity.

Connection of metal-plastic pipes

Fittings are used to fasten parts of different diameters, design turns and branches. Depending on the type of connecting part, fastening is carried out using crimp nuts or using presses.

Press fittings are used for hidden laying of lines

The advantage of using fittings is the presence of ready-made thread cuts, which reduces the work process. But you should not lose your vigilance; the technology for installing metal-plastic pipes requires delicately careful handling of consumables. As a rule, it is the hidden laying of the communication line that is carried out, therefore it is necessary to ensure perfect tightness of the joints.

Note: discard fittings with unclear or worn threads. If there is no choice, it is allowed to use a shaped part with defective notches, but only if the area of the “defective” thread is no more than 10% of its total surface.

A high-quality screw fitting has smooth ends, perpendicular to the main product, without burrs or inaccuracies on the thread.

Preparatory work

Prepare a tool for installing metal-plastic pipes:

calibrator and chamfer
adjustable or open-end wrench (if compression fittings are used)
press jaws (if press fittings are used)

A pruner (pipe cutter) will provide an even cut line and will avoid burrs and damage to the protective coating products when cutting. The calibrator will help to shape the part and flare it to the desired diameter without deforming the seals. Without experience or if there is a lack of time, it is recommended to use electric tools.

Use a pipe cutter to get straight ends.

Before installing metal-plastic pipes, regardless of the chosen type of connecting parts, preparation is carried out according to a simple algorithm:

the surface of the pipes is marked into the required divisions;

Important: when calculating the length of the segment, take into account the centimeters included in the fitting.

the product is cut according to the markings (work at right angles);
if the part was deformed during the process, level it with a calibrator (you can also remove the chamfer from the inside, and remove the external chamfer using a chamfer remover).

Select the tool according to the working diameter. If the edge of the cut is sharp, sharpen it with a sharpened metal drill with a small diameter or a round file.

Installation with compression fittings

Compression connection suitable for open installation

When installing metal-plastic pipes using a crimp (compression) fitting, make sure that all dielectric gaskets and O-rings are present on the tail section. After checking, follow the algorithm:

Place a tightening nut on the end of the pipe.
Secure the crimp ring.

Important: if you use a cone-shaped ring, put it on from the narrow edge.

Insert the shank firmly into the pipe.
Seal the fastening with flax and sealant or tow.
Secure the fitting with a union nut, tighten it, adjusting the pressure so as not to damage the fastener, but to ensure complete tightness.

Tip: use 2 wrenches for reliability - hold the fitting body with one, and tighten the nut with the second.

Working with press fittings

Here's how to properly install metal-plastic pipes using press fittings:

Bevel the end of the pipe.
Treat it with a calibrator.
Install the ferrule.
Place O-rings on the fitting, insert the fitting into the pipe, protect the contact point between the metal elements with a dielectric gasket.
Insert liners of a diameter suitable for the part being fastened with the fitting into the press tongs, and turn the handles of the tongs 180°.
Place the connection in the pliers, close the handles and crimp until it stops.

Video: How to work with press fittings

Pipe bending and fastening

Metal-plastic lines are secured to walls and other surfaces using special clips. Such devices make it easier to dismantle metal-plastic pipes with your own hands if necessary.

If the product is deformed, a calibrator will help return it to shape.

Select clips according to the size and diameter of the pipes.

How to attach: install the clip using dowels and self-tapping screws. To prevent the pipeline from sagging, install fastenings to the wall at a distance of no more than 1 m. When turning or existing bends, the pipeline is fixed on both sides.

You can bend a piece of metal-plastic with your hands, using a spring, a hair dryer or a pipe bender:

Manually. The product is shaped by manual pressure. Suitable for experienced craftsmen, with small pipe diameters.
The use of a spring prevents deformation (stretching, tearing, uneven bending) and simplifies operation. The device is inserted into a bendable part and can be bent. The spring must correspond to the working diameter.
The heat of the hairdryer softens the plastic, and the product made from it bends in one movement. The main thing is not to overheat the material.
A pipe bender will ensure a perfectly even turn. You need to set the bending angle, insert the part into the grooves and bring the handles together.

Rules for working with metal-plastic

Plastic is vulnerable to UV radiation, thermal and mechanical damage. Therefore, open installation of metal-plastic pipes for water supply or other purposes is allowed only in areas where such factors are absent. Also, the pipeline is installed in the open after finishing the walls.

List of rules:

If you are making a hidden highway, provide hatches and removable panels without sharp edges in the ceiling so that there is access to joints and fittings.
Avoid kinks, cuts and ruptures on the pipes. To avoid scratches, do not use sharp objects when unpacking the pipes.
Pass the pipeline through walls and other ceilings using sleeves, the diameter of which is 5-10 mm larger than the outer circumference of the pipe.
Remember: installation of metal-plastic products can be carried out at a temperature not lower than 10°. If consumables were with sub-zero temperature, before using, let them warm up to room temperature.

Make the markings with a pencil or marker, and metal connections equip with gaskets made of soft materials.

You can easily cope with the installation of metal-plastic structures if you follow the manufacturer’s instructions and be patient.

Video: How to install a compression connection

Water supply from metal-plastic pipes is the most common option for installing water supply systems in houses and apartments. They have firmly reigned in this market segment. And there are good reasons for this.

On this page we will describe all the pros and cons of such a water supply system, and also describe in detail how to install metal-plastic pipes with your own hands, how to connect them using fittings, etc.

There are several objective indicators that allow metal-plastic pipes to outshine their competitors when installing a water supply system in an apartment or house:

Easy to install. If the work is carried out carefully, it can be performed by anyone without any preparation. In practice, this is something like a construction set, the assembly of which does not require expensive tools or special skills.
Reliability. The 50-year guarantee is proof of this. But note that this applies to pipes, not their connections.
Price. One thing can be said: “Cheaper, but for nothing.” Some competition in this parameter may come from polypropylene pipes, but otherwise they lose.

Based on the above, water supply using metal-plastic pipes is reliable, inexpensive, and you can assemble it yourself. Naturally, connecting to the central system is the prerogative of professionals.

It's unfortunate, but Every barrel of honey has its own fly in the ointment. In the case of metal-plastic water supply, these are fittings.

A fitting is a device with which you can:

change direction;
drown out;
connect;
branch.

In our case we are talking about metal-plastic pipes. If the fitting has the same diameter at both ends, then it is straight; and if different, then transitional.

But these are only their varieties according to their intended purpose, but according to the method of fixation, all fittings are divided into crimp and press fittings.

Compression fittings. Otherwise called ring or serviced. In such cases, fixation is carried out due to conical shape, the inner surface, a ferrule nut, which, when tightened, compresses the trim ring. Such connections can be disassembled and require periodic maintenance. Usually once a year, compression fittings on metal-plastic pipes through which the hot water, you should check and, if necessary, tighten it a little. The reason for their weakening is temperature deformation from hot water. For their installation, two gas (adjustable) wrenches are required.
Press fittings. Or maintenance-free, they are fixed on the pipe by pressing in a special crimp sleeve. The work is carried out using press tongs. They can be manual or electric. The first ones cost from 4 tr., the second ones from 25 tr. The connection turns out to be permanent, but with a guarantee against leaks, regardless of the water temperature. Most often, press fittings are used in connections that will be walled into walls, or with difficult access after repairs.

The reliability and quality of connections depend on the scrupulous execution of instructions. But for the price... Although press fittings are cheaper than crimp fittings, they are total cost for installing water supply in an apartment is equal to the cost of metal-plastic pipes.

Planning a water supply system “on paper”

The most important and paramount thing is the water supply layout plan. If you have never done this, then you can create it from scratch without any particular difficulties, although this undertaking is quite painstaking. But it all starts with the consumer.

It is necessary to designate the places where the taps will be. This is the kitchen and bathroom. With proper construction, they are usually located nearby, which makes organizing a water supply system easier and significantly reduces the cost. IN ideal, if they are located in adjacent rooms, only one pipe will be required, from which branches will go through a tee to different rooms.
The place where water enters the house is indicated. There are only two options: central water supply or private well (well). Depending on this, you may need additional equipment. In particular, when using water from a well, it is necessary to install a hydraulic accumulator (above the consumer level). From it, water will flow by gravity into the house. This system is preferable because it does not require the pump to be turned on constantly. The hydraulic accumulator does not have to be metal. It can be “poured” from concrete. And already installed in the house:
Filter system (configuration depending on water quality).
Boiler.

Accordingly, if water enters the house from the central water supply system, then only monitoring devices will need to be installed at the entrance to account for consumption.

This circuit diagram. It is unacceptable to make recommendations on a filtration system without knowing the quality of the water. The same applies to the water heating system. Depending on the conditions, the boiler can be electric or gas. Using a liquid or liquid water heater solid fuel not economical and associated with certain difficulties. Especially in the summer.

Required tools and materials

A string unwinds from the taps along the wall. In places of bending or branching, nails are hammered in and the direction changes. Accordingly, two (or three) strings will already go from the tees. Having marked the entire system in this way, it is necessary to draw its location on the wall. You can use chalk or water-based emulsion.

Only after this, the string must be removed and its length measured. Additionally, count the number of fittings and their types.

IMPORTANT: increase the resulting pipe footage by 10%. This is common practice.

Regarding the choice of pipe diameter, there is already an established opinion. For almost all residential buildings and apartments, a metal-plastic pipe ᴓ16 mm is more than enough. It provides a supply of up to 3 m 3 /hour. And most water meters are not designed for higher flow rates. And why more?

Choosing a manufacturer of metal-plastic pipes is perhaps the most difficult task. There are quite often fakes on the market. Buy a pipe from a reputable store or from trusted suppliers. We recommend that you refrain from purchasing metal-plastic pipes from Chinese manufacturers. Negative reviews are too common. The highest quality metal-plastic pipes are produced in Belgium ( Henco), Germany ( Frankische and Sanha).

What tools you will need:

Cutter for metal-plastic pipes (from 250 rubles).
Caliber with countersink (from 200 RUR).
Conductor (from 500 rubles).
Press tongs (from RUR 4,000, but can be rented).
Two gas (or adjustable) wrenches.
Hammer.
Screwdriver.

How to use the tool

The caliber restores the shape of the pipe after cutting, and the countersink removes the chamfer and removes burrs. If the caliber is without a countersink, then its work can be done using fine sandpaper.

The conductor is used to bend a metal-plastic pipe. It can be external and internal. In some cases, using the internal one is more convenient, because it does not slip in your hands. But it is not always possible, because the bend point may be far from the end of the pipe. Therefore, we recommend choosing an external conductor.

Press pliers will be required if you will be using maintenance-free fittings. Based on 16 years of experience, we recommend press fittings. And there is only one reason. Most residents forget about servicing their compression fittings after a year. And this leads to leaks. But the choice is yours.

From consumables You will need: self-tapping screws, fastenings for metal-plastic pipes, FUM tape.

The process of installing metal-plastic pipes

Start installation metal-plastic water pipe necessary from the source to the consumer (to the taps). Unwind a piece of pipe from the roll to the nearest fitting, and cut it with a knife. Calibrate, deburr and chamfer. Then insert the pipe into the fitting until it stops. The press fittings have special holes to control the depth. The edge of the metal-plastic pipe should be visible in them. Then insert the fitting into the pliers and crimp the connection.

Compression fittings are secured using the nuts and rings included in the kit.

Working with press pliers with your own hands is quite simple, since you won’t be able to insert the fitting “crookedly” into it.

All press jaws have replaceable jaws for pipes of different diameters. Don't go wrong when choosing sponges.

The installation process for compression fittings is slightly different. First, a nut is put on the prepared piece of pipe, then a cutting ring, and after that, the pipe is inserted into the body of the fitting itself. Before tightening the nut, we strongly recommend winding with FUM tape. Only two or three turns are required. You need to start from the edge of the thread and wind it while holding the tape taut. After this, moisten the thread with sunflower oil. This technique will protect against leaks!

The nut is first tightened by hand until it stops. And only then, holding the fitting with one gas wrench, tighten the clamping nut with the other. You don't have to pull with all your might, but you do need to apply a little force.

Installation using press jaws

The metal-plastic pipe should be fixed to the wall every meter. Special fasteners are fixed into the surface through a self-tapping screw, and a pipe is inserted into them.

In those places where this is permissible, the pipe can be bent using a jig. To do this, put a conductor on the pipe, bring it to the desired location, and carefully, holding the product with your hands at a distance equidistant from the target location, bend the pipe in the desired plane. Considering that the bending radius of a metal-plastic pipe is equal to its 8 diameters, this approach is not practical everywhere.

Checking and eliminating leaks

After installing the metal-plastic pipes, connect them to the tap using the hoses included in the kit. Then go along all the routes again and visually check the integrity of the assembly.

Pay attention to tees and splitters. Sometimes, being carried away by one branch, the installer forgets about fixing the pipe in another.

Open the taps at the end of the water supply (kitchen and bathroom). And only after that, slowly, in order to avoid possible water hammer, open the water supply valve to the system. It is most convenient to perform this stage with a partner. He must control the water output at the final destination. As soon as the water starts flowing, to flush the pipes, let it drain for 2-3 minutes. Then close the outlet valves, this will increase the pressure in the system, and go along the entire route of laying the pipe. Check all connections. If in doubt, run a paper towel (or toilet paper).Don't confuse condensation with a leak!

We guarantee that if you have completed the work according to our recommendations, then in 99.9% there will be no leaks. If any connection causes you reasonable concern, then tighten it a little.

Advantages and disadvantages of metal-plastic water supply

There are several objective indicators that allow metal-plastic pipes to outshine their competitors when installing a water supply system in an apartment or house:

Easy to install. If the work is carried out carefully, it can be performed by anyone without any preparation. In practice, this is something like a construction set, the assembly of which does not require expensive tools or special skills.
Reliability. The 50-year guarantee is proof of this. But note that this applies to pipes, not their connections.
Price. One thing can be said: “Cheaper, but for nothing.” Polypropylene pipes can compete in some way in this parameter, but in other respects they lose.

Based on the above, water supply using metal-plastic pipes is reliable, inexpensive, and you can assemble it yourself. Naturally, connecting to the central system is the prerogative of professionals.

It's unfortunate, but Every barrel of honey has its own fly in the ointment. In the case of metal-plastic water supply, these are fittings.

A fitting is a device with which you can:

In our case we are talking about metal-plastic pipes. If the fitting has the same diameter at both ends, then it is straight; and if different, then transitional.

But these are only their varieties according to their intended purpose, but according to the method of fixation, all fittings are divided into crimp and press fittings.

Compression fittings. Otherwise called ring-shaped, or serviced. In these, fixation is carried out due to the conical shape, internal surface, crimp nut, which, when tightened, compresses the cutting ring. Such connections can be disassembled and require periodic maintenance. Usually once a year, compression fittings on metal-plastic pipes through which the hot water, you should check and, if necessary, tighten it a little. The reason for their weakening is temperature deformation from hot water. For their installation, two gas (adjustable) wrenches are required.
Press fittings. Or maintenance-free, they are fixed on the pipe by pressing in a special crimp sleeve. The work is carried out using press tongs. They can be manual or electric. The first ones cost from 4 tr., the second ones from 25 tr. The connection turns out to be permanent, but with a guarantee against leaks, regardless of the water temperature. Most often, press fittings are used in connections that will be walled into walls, or with difficult access after repairs.

The reliability and quality of connections depend on the scrupulous execution of instructions. But for the price... Although press fittings are cheaper than crimp fittings, their total cost for installing water supply in an apartment is equal to the cost of metal-plastic pipes.

Planning a water supply system “on paper”

It is necessary to designate the places where the taps will be. This is the kitchen and bathroom. With proper construction, they are usually located nearby, which makes organizing a water supply system easier and significantly reduces the cost. Ideally, if they are located in adjacent rooms, only one pipe will be required, from which branches will go through a tee to different rooms.
The place where water enters the house is indicated. There are only two options: central water supply or a private well (well). Depending on this, additional equipment may be required. In particular, when using water from a well, it is necessary to install a hydraulic accumulator (above the consumer level). From it, water will flow by gravity into the house. This system is preferable because it does not require the pump to be turned on constantly. The hydraulic accumulator does not have to be metal. It can be “poured” from concrete. And already installed in the house:
Filter system (configuration depending on water quality).
Boiler.

Accordingly, if water enters the house from the central water supply system, then only monitoring devices will need to be installed at the entrance to account for consumption.

This is a schematic diagram. It is unacceptable to make recommendations on a filtration system without knowing the quality of the water. The same applies to the water heating system. Depending on the conditions, the boiler can be electric or gas. Using a liquid or solid fuel water heater is not economical and is associated with certain difficulties. Especially in the summer.

Required tools and materials

Only after this, the string must be removed and its length measured. Additionally, count the number of fittings and their types.

IMPORTANT: increase the resulting pipe footage by 10%. This is common practice.

What tools you will need:

Cutter for metal-plastic pipes (from 250 rubles).
Caliber with countersink (from 200 RUR).
Conductor (from 500 rubles).
Press tongs (from RUR 4,000, but can be rented).
Two gas (or adjustable) wrenches.
Hammer.
Screwdriver.

How to use the tool

Consumables you will need: self-tapping screws, fastenings for metal-plastic pipes, FUM tape.

The process of installing metal-plastic pipes

It is necessary to begin the installation of a metal-plastic water supply from the source to the consumer (to the taps). Unwind a piece of pipe from the roll to the nearest fitting, and cut it with a knife. Calibrate, deburr and chamfer. Then insert the pipe into the fitting until it stops. The press fittings have special holes to control the depth. The edge of the metal-plastic pipe should be visible in them. Then insert the fitting into the pliers and crimp the connection.

Compression fittings are secured using the nuts and rings included in the kit.

Working with press pliers with your own hands is quite simple, since you won’t be able to insert the fitting “crookedly” into it.

All press jaws have replaceable jaws for pipes of different diameters. Don't go wrong when choosing sponges.

Installation using press jaws

The metal-plastic pipe should be fixed to the wall every meter. Special fasteners are fixed into the surface through a self-tapping screw, and a pipe is inserted into them.

Checking and eliminating leaks

After installing the metal-plastic pipes, connect them to the tap using the hoses included in the kit. Then go along all the routes again and visually check the integrity of the assembly.

Pay attention to tees and splitters. Sometimes, being carried away by one branch, the installer forgets about fixing the pipe in another.

We guarantee that if you have completed the work according to our recommendations, then in 99.9% there will be no leaks. If any connection causes you reasonable concern, then tighten it a little.

Do-it-yourself water supply from metal-plastic pipes Video

Detailed instructions for installing metal-plastic pipes and connecting them with fittings. All about how to assemble a water supply system in an apartment or house with your own hands with Video

How to properly install metal-plastic pipes with your own hands

In the life of a modern person important place involves the transfer of various substances, in particular water, over a distance using supply systems - pipelines, the most important and longest part of which are pipes.

Thanks to the wide range of products today, every homeowner has the opportunity to independently assemble plumbing system using products from any suitable material. This article will tell you about the installation of metal-plastic pipes for water supply with your own hands, the characteristics and advantages of such products.

Construction of metal-plastic pipes and their advantages

Products of this type consist of three main layers and two layers, from the inside out:

A layer of molecularly compacted or cross-linked polyethylene.
Adhesive layer between the inner layer and aluminum foil.
Aluminum layer.
A layer of adhesive connecting aluminum and the outer layer of a polymer substance.
Outer plastic layer.

Advantages of products made from this material:

relatively small compared to metal elements, weight, which greatly facilitates all maintenance operations, scheduled or unscheduled repairs, dismantling and installation of metal-plastic pipes;
no threat of corrosion, since the inner and outer layers of the products are made of plastic that does not deteriorate under the influence of water;
thanks to aluminum reinforcement, the coefficient of linear expansion is very low;
A consequence of the previous paragraph is the possibility of not maintaining ideal accuracy during calculations and preparation of products for installation.

Among the disadvantages of metal-plastic pipes are the following;

their mechanical strength and resistance to overloads are still less than that of metal elements;
the upper thresholds of operating temperature and pressure are also not so high.

A few words about the layout of the plumbing system

Laying out metal-plastic pipes with your own hands is generally not difficult; The process begins with the installation of ball valves on the riser. At this stage, it is necessary to select the reinforcement especially carefully, giving preference quality products, suitable for use at operating pressures of at least 60 atm. and temperatures of about 150°C.

It is clear that since no one can vouch for the quality of Chinese products and they can fail at any moment, it is best to avoid purchasing them, choosing more expensive but reliable options.

This is all the more significant if you consider that it is through ball valves that, in the event of a leak, the system shuts off the flow of water into the apartment.

Having chosen good taps and installed them, you can continue to install water supply from metal-plastic pipes with your own hands.

The following preparatory stages of arranging a water supply system:

Installation of a filter for deep cleaning and a water meter.
Installation of a filter designed for fine cleaning.
Introduction to pressure reducer circuit.
Installation of a collector, from which metal pipes will subsequently be discharged, connected in a variety of ways and subsequently connected to plumbing fixtures.

Despite the fact that the internal surface of cross-linked polyethylene is quite resistant to small abrasive particles, installation of cleaning filters in a system with metal-plastic pipes is necessary: a large amount of sand, metal particles or pieces of scale can damage not only the pipeline, but also the output devices.

The collector must be installed to ensure the same intensity of moisture supply from the common riser to all plumbing elements - sinks, washing machine and the toilet.

Typically, the manifold has two to four outlets. If there are more devices in the house that require fluid supply, it is possible to choose collectors with the appropriate number of outlets.

Fittings for metal-plastic products

The most important question that should be explained to the home craftsman is how to properly install metal-plastic pipes. Usually, special connecting elements - fittings - are used for this purpose.

They come in two types:

Press fittings (mounted by pressing).
Screw (compression type).

Features of installation with compression fittings

These products are characterized by:

the strength of the connection is ensured by the pressure of the screwed nut on the open ferrule;
no need to look for special tools for connecting pipes: just two are enough wrenches, one of which holds the installation site, and the other tightens the crimp nut;
the need to use as few intermediate connections as possible when laying metal-plastic pipes with your own hands;
the possibility of gradually weakening the strength of the connection, as a result of which it is necessary to tighten the crimp nuts from time to time; Because of this, it is not recommended to lay pipes installed in this way into walls or floors.

You can avoid the last problem by replacing crimping products with press fittings.

Features of installation using press fittings

Such products are more reliable and durable (service life is at least 50 years), withstand operating pressures of up to 10 bar and ensure ease of pipeline installation.

The only drawback is the need to use a special pressing machine, manual or hydraulic with a microprocessor.

Cut a piece of pipe to the required length.
Chamfer the ends and adjust the diameter of the product.
Put on the end created from stainless steel sleeve.
Insert the prepared part of the pipe with the fitting until it stops.
Using the grip of the press machine, they take the sleeve and compress it, bringing the handles of the press together.

To ensure a durable connection, the following rules should be followed:

pipes do not tolerate ultraviolet rays and mechanical damage well, so lay them open method is possible only where these factors do not exist (read also: “How metal-plastic pipes are assembled - step by step guide making connections");
when laying hidden, it is necessary to provide access to the fittings by providing various windows and removable panels during installation;
when you need to pass pipes through the structure of a house, choose a sleeve with a diameter that is 5-10 mm larger than the similar external parameter of the pipe. Non-flammable material is inserted into the gap, which, when compressed, promotes the longitudinal movement of the pipe;
when mounting products on walls, you should use hangers and supports supplied by the same manufacturer, and insulate the metal parts of the fastenings with soft material;
Damage to the surface of the product must not be allowed.

If you follow these tips, assembling a water supply system will be simple and not particularly expensive.

Installation of metal-plastic pipes: do-it-yourself water supply, how to install it correctly, laying, water supply distribution, installation

Do-it-yourself installation of metal-plastic pipes

When constructing pipelines of any type of water supply, do-it-yourself installation of metal-plastic pipes is now successfully used.

Due to their design, metal-plastic pipes have a number of advantages that distinguish them from other types of similar products.

Assembling a metal-plastic pipeline

Advantages and design of metal-plastic pipes

Structurally, metal-plastic pipes have five layers:

The inner layer of the product is made from cross-linked or molecularly compacted polyethylene;
A layer of glue connecting the aluminum layer and polyethylene;
Aluminum layer;
A layer of glue connecting the aluminum layer and the outer layer of plastic;
Layer of plastic.

Metal-plastic pipes have certain advantages compared to similar products:

Due to the polymer layer, metal-plastic pipes are highly resistant to corrosion.
Thanks to the aluminum layer, the products are elastic and retain their shape, making it possible to install metal-plastic pipes of almost any complexity and configuration.
Perfect accuracy when calculating linear dimensions is not required.

Features of the plumbing system layout

Do-it-yourself installation of metal-plastic pipes begins with the installation of ball valves on the riser. For installation, you must choose only high-quality ball valves, which are capable of operating at high operating pressure (within 60 atmospheres) and temperature within 150 degrees.

Chinese counterfeits must be avoided, since in the water supply system much depends on the quality of the taps.

It is the ball valve that can be used to shut off the water supply to the apartment in a situation where leaks occur.

Ball valves for metal-plastic pipelines

Diagram of a metal-plastic pipeline system

Deep filter and water meter;
Fine filter;
Pressure reducer;
A manifold from which the wiring and installation of metal-plastic pipes is carried out to the plumbing fixtures themselves.

Metal-plastic pipes are installed together with filters to protect plumbing fixtures and the pipes themselves from small particles of sand, metals, and scale, which are present in significant quantities in the risers.

Installation of a collector is required to ensure a uniform supply of water to the consuming elements - sink, toilet, washing machine, and from the water riser. As a rule, collectors have 2, 3 or 4 outlets. In the case where the number of consuming devices is more than four, select collectors that have the required number of outputs.

Fittings for metal-plastic pipes

If you need to connect metal-plastic pipes, installation and direct connection is carried out using fittings for metal-plastic pipes, which come in the following types:

Connecting pipes using compression fittings

Compression fitting diagram

Making connections using compression fittings:

When using a compression fitting, the connection is obtained due to the pressure generated during the process of tightening the nut on the open crimp ring.
To make a compression connection, special tools for installing metal-plastic pipes are not required.

The connection is made using two wrenches: while the nut is tightened with one, resistance is exerted with the other wrench.

If metal-plastic pipes are used when wiring, installation should be carried out to the consuming device from the collector in one whole “thread”, avoiding unnecessary connections.
After some time, it may be necessary to tighten the connection to maintain the tightness of the compression fittings.

But if you lay pipes that have several fitting connections in the floor or cover them with tiles, then performing this operation or dismantling metal-plastic pipes if such a need arises will become very difficult.

To avoid periodic pulling of fittings, you have no choice but to install metal-plastic pipes using press fittings.

Connecting metal-plastic pipes using press fittings

Press fittings are durable and strong (their warranty is up to 50 years), can withstand pressures of up to 10 bar, and the installation of metal-plastic pipes made with their help is quick and easy.

Metal-plastic pipes connected with press fittings are installed using a special press machine. This tool for installing metal-plastic pipes can be simple manual or microprocessor-based hydraulic.

Instructions for installing metal-plastic pipes with connections using press fittings:

The pipe is cut with special scissors at a right angle.
Using sweep and special tool For calibration, the chamfer is removed and the pipe diameter is adjusted for subsequent installation.
A sleeve made of stainless steel is placed on the end of the pipe.
The fitting is inserted into the fitting pipe until it stops.
The press clamp - manual or hydraulic - grabs the sleeve.
Press the press handles all the way.

Rules for laying a metal-plastic pipeline

A metal-plastic pipeline is laid in accordance with the following rules:

When installing a metal-plastic pipe, you must be extremely careful, since pipes are very sensitive to ultraviolet radiation, mechanical and thermal damage.

Open laying of such pipes is permissible only in places where there is no influence of these factors.

The technology for installing metal-plastic pipes with hidden installation involves the installation of hatches and removable panels for access to compression-type fittings. Such hatches and shields should not have sharp protrusions.
Installation of pipes through building structures is carried out using sleeves with an internal diameter 5-10 mm larger than the external diameter of the pipe.

The gap that is formed in this case is filled with a soft, fireproof material that can ensure the movement of the pipe in the longitudinal direction.

In the process of installing metal-plastic pipes for water supply or heating, at each stage you need to remember that scratches or cuts on the surface of the pipes are unacceptable.

Example of a domestic plumbing system diagram

When unpacking a coil with a pipe, you should not use sharp objects. When marking the pipe, you must use only a pencil or marker.

Installation of a metal-plastic pipe is carried out using supports or hangers, with the help of which they are attached to the wall.

Supports and hangers are offered by pipe manufacturers. Metal fastenings must be equipped with gaskets made of soft material.

A do-it-yourself metal-plastic pipeline will last longer if the given tips, instructions and recommendations are followed in full.

Do-it-yourself installation of metal-plastic pipes: how to install correctly, what tools are needed

192) Do-it-yourself installation of metal-plastic pipes: tools for installing a water supply system, how to install correctly, assembly instructions, technology

Do-it-yourself installation of metal-plastic pipes: connection technology + wiring examples

Modern materials for arranging intra-house lines have made it possible to independently assemble water supply and heating systems. For example, installing metal-plastic pipes with your own hands will allow you to arrange water supply or sewer lines. Working with such elements does not require complex tools or special skills.

Features of metal-plastic products

Metal-plastic (metal-polymer pipes) – composite products, for the production of which they are used various types materials. Similar elements have an attractive appearance, good wear resistance, elasticity, strength.

Typically, a pipe consists of five layers. As load-bearing base A durable polymer is used, usually cross-linked polyethylene. It makes the inner surface smooth, protecting it from blockages, and also contributes to the strength of the product.

An adhesive is applied to the core, on which aluminum foil that stabilizes the pipe is attached (it also prevents the ingress of oxygen). The connection is secured by butt or overlap welding.

The fourth layer is also applied with glue, to which the outer covering is connected - white polyethylene, which provides protection to the product and gives it an aesthetic appearance.

Technical characteristics of pipes D 16-20 mm

Here are the data typical for metal-plastic pipes of common diameters (16 and 20 mm):

The wall thickness is 2 and 2.25 millimeters, respectively; The thickness of the aluminum layer is 0.2 and 0.24 mm.
One running meter weighs 115 and 170 grams and holds a volume of liquid equal to 1.113 and 0.201 liters.
The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.43 W/m K, the expansion rate of metal-plastic is 0.26x10 4 per 1 degree Celsius, the roughness coefficient is 0.07.
When the material breaks transversely, the strength coefficient is 2880 N.
The strength of the connection between the adhesive layer and the foil is 70 N/10 sq. mm, the strength coefficient of the aluminum welded layer is 57 N/sq. mm.
Metal-plastic pipes can operate even at +95 o C, briefly withstanding temperatures of +110-130 o C.
Within the temperature range from 0 to +25 o C, the system operates at a pressure of up to 25 bar, and at +95 o C it can withstand a pressure of 10 bar.
The tightness and integrity of the metal-plastic pipe is broken under a load of 94 bar (at +20 o C).

With proper installation and compliance with operating rules, products made of metal-polymers can last 50 years or more.

Advantages and disadvantages of metal polymers

The advantages of such products include:

ease of installation: connections of various categories of metal-plastic pipes are carried out quickly and easily;
high heat resistance (water heated to 100°C can be transported);
reasonable price (metal-polymer pipes are cheaper than metal and most plastic analogues);
high levels of strength and ring stiffness;
resistance to corrosion and aggressive environments;
reluctance to form deposits and blockages;
aesthetic appearance;
high throughput;
low thermal conductivity;
sufficient plasticity;
possibility of easy repair;
durability.

The main disadvantage of such products lies in the fact that the metal and plastic from which the pipes are made have different expansion rates. Regular temperature changes of the agent in the pipes can lead to weakening of the fastenings, which causes leaks in the structure.

To avoid this, experts advise, when performing installation, to always provide a certain margin at pipe joints. It will also be useful because metal-plastic systems do not withstand water hammer well.

Areas of application of metal-plastic elements

Pipes made of metal polymers are widely used in the construction of individual houses, in industrial construction and agriculture.

The main areas of their use are:

transportation of liquids, gaseous agents;
laying drainage systems, water pipes, heating;
in structures involving the transfer of compressed air;
supplying heating components to radiators, installing heated floors;
installation of air conditioning circuits;
protection and shielding of wires (primarily power);
construction of irrigation systems.

when organizing central heating systems with the proposed construction of elevator units;
in places with assigned level fire safety"G";
with the expected supply of hot liquid in the pipeline with a working pressure >10 bar;
in rooms where it is planned to place sources of thermal radiation with a surface temperature of over 150 degrees C.

In addition, it is undesirable to use metal-polymer pipes in safety, signal, overflow, expansion circuits and in fire-fighting water supply systems.

Three main methods of pipe routing

Wiring of metal-plastic systems can be carried out different methods, each of which is selected based on the feasibility and possibilities of further access to the system.

Option #1: hidden

In this case, all pipes and connections are hidden deep in the wall under finishing materials. Only fittings and bends for connecting plumbing fixtures are exposed outside.

When using this installation method, the interior design is preserved, in addition, masking communications protects them from accidental damage.

This option has several disadvantages:

Laying channels for pipes requires a complex and labor-intensive gating process. After laying communications, the surface must be restored again.
This method is not suitable for load-bearing walls, where gating is prohibited by regulatory documents.
Quite a high cost associated with additional work.

This method is best used when renovating a bathroom. It is not advisable to install a hidden installation in an already decorated room, since this will require complete dismantling of the wall covering (cladding, plaster).

Option #2: open

If for some reason the pipes cannot be hidden in the wall, they can be laid along its surface. This option is more convenient for visual inspection of joints, which allows, if necessary, to quickly clean the area or replace a component.

Open wiring can be used in rooms that have already been renovated, since the installation will not harm the design of the walls. The advantages of this method include its ease and lower cost of work than when laying internal communications.

Option #3: combined

In this case, the pipes are laid along the surface of unfinished walls, after which they are covered with boxes or false panels. That's enough the hard way, since it requires a perfect fit into the interior decorative elements, which can also be used as drywall, tiles and other materials.

Wiring diagrams for bathrooms and bathrooms

At plumbing work, carried out in bathrooms and toilets, three layouts of metal-plastic pipes can be used. For private houses, the most rational option is to use a collector.

Efficient collector system

Reliable and practical option, which involves connecting each object to the central pipe through a supply pair. This allows the faucet to regulate or turn off the water supply to each specific plumbing fixture.

All control devices are located in a compact manifold, which is placed in a space specially designated for them (cabinet).

Supply pipes with a minimum of connections do not require special control, which allows for hidden installation. The disadvantage of this option is the rather high cost, since for each connection you will need to purchase a special shut-off valve. Since such a system is quite complex, work must be done carefully and carefully.

An important advantage: if a separate item (washing machine, faucet) fails, there is no need to completely disconnect the bathroom from the water supply - just turn off the necessary shut-off valve.

Serial connection system

This option involves connecting each plumbing item to the main pipe using a separate tee. It is more suitable for bathrooms with a minimum number of objects ( washing machine, general mixer).

The sequential circuit can be implemented after completion in the room finishing works, applying open system styling The assembly process is quite simple: the pipe is laid from one object to another, and at the same time the supply element is removed from the tee.

This option requires minimal financial costs. It should be taken into account that if there are a large number of liquid intake points, the pressure may not be enough, and the system will function with difficulty or even fail completely.

Wiring system with pass-through sockets

The connection of plumbing fixtures is similar to that in series, but instead of tees, sockets are used. This scheme is usually used only in individual houses, since it requires laying long pipes, as well as installing an additional pump that will help provide the required water pressure.

When performing connecting work with metal-plastic pipes, several important nuances should be taken into account:

When developing a design, it is desirable to provide a minimum of connections.
It is important to use pipe and couplings made from the same material.
It is better to use thermal insulation for the pipeline to prevent condensation from settling.
It is necessary to provide free access to metering devices, filters, and detachable connections.

Compliance with the rules will create reliable system, capable of serving for many years.

Layout of sewer pipes

The work of installing sewer metal-plastic pipes has its own characteristics.

In this case, to ensure smooth drainage of wastewater and prevent blockages, it is important to comply with the following requirements:

Maintain a slope (0.02-0.03 of the entire length of the structure) towards the drain manifold.
It is prohibited to install bends at an angle of 90 degrees when installing structures.
The need to install special tees with removable covers (revisions) in areas before turns that are prone to blockages.
When installing the system in a hidden way, it is important to leave viewing windows opposite the revision.
When assembling a system, it is important to leave a reserve intended for thermal expansion products.

To install sewerage, it is necessary to use pipes whose diameter ensures easy passage of wastewater. For toilets, it is recommended to use products with a diameter of at least 100 mm; for bathtubs and sinks, 50-75 mm is sufficient.

Rules for installation of metal-polymer structures

When laying metal-plastic systems, it is important to be guided by the following provisions:

When laying hidden pipelines from this material, it is important to provide removable shields (hatches) that are free of sharp protrusions. They provide access to compression fittings.
It is important to lay systems through building structures using sleeves whose internal diameter is 0.5-1 cm larger than that of the pipe. The gap that forms between the elements must be filled with soft, non-flammable material that allows the pipe to move in the longitudinal direction.
When laying metal-plastic plumbing or heating systems, it is important to prevent damage to the surface of the elements, including scratches or cuts. To unpack the bay, it is better to avoid sharp objects and mark the structure with a pencil or marker.
Installation of the structure can be carried out using a support or suspension, which are usually present in the range of manufacturers of metal-polymer pipes. They help attach products to the wall, while metal parts installed with gaskets made of soft material.

All stages of operations must be carried out carefully and carefully, since metal-plastic elements are sensitive to ultraviolet radiation and mechanical damage. External installation of such structures is appropriate only in places where there are no such factors.

Tools and materials for laying pipes

Laying metal-polymer systems requires a minimum of devices and materials, but it is better to choose high-quality devices and pipes.

Pipeline installation accessories

To create a structure made of metal-plastic, a very modest set of tools is enough: a pipe cutter, a simple pipe bender, an extension wrench and a spanner.

A pipe cutter is needed to separate measured sections of pipe from the coil. Since metal-plastic is a fairly malleable material, it can be cut with a hacksaw or even a sharp knife. However, ideal perpendicularity of the lines, without which it is difficult to obtain a tight connection, can only be achieved by using a special cutter.

Keys different types important for installation and assembly threaded connections on pipeline fittings. If absolutely necessary, you can get by with one spanner, but for comfortable work it is better to use two spanners and one adjustable wrench.

A gauge is an important tool for creating an accurate and tight connection between a pipe and a fitting: it allows you to center the cut plane and chamfer the inside of the product.

The pipe bender allows you to change the configuration of the element, so you can save on corner fittings. It is especially important to have this tool if the design involves large number corner mates.

What materials will be needed

To lay the pipeline, it is important to stock up on the following components:

pipes (coils, measured sections);
various fitting options (bends, tees, corners), with the help of which individual sections of pipes are transformed into a single system;
fastening elements - collapsible clamps and clips, with the help of which metal-plastic structures are fixed on supporting surfaces, most often on the wall.

It is important to choose everything in advance necessary materials and tools to then carry out all the work smoothly.

Pipe line marking

Before starting work, it is important to think about how the pipes will be placed. When developing a circuit, it is advisable to:

Draw pipeline lines directly on the walls of the room where it is planned to be laid, which helps visualize the structure.
As a starting point, use the connection point of the pipe to the tap or radiator, which must already be installed before installation begins.
Minimize the number of tees and crosses that affect pressure stability, and also minimize the number of other fittings.
For corner laying of metal-plastic pipes, you can use a pipe bender or corner fittings.
All connecting elements should be provided with free access, since threaded fasteners need periodic tightening to avoid leaks.

The installation of connecting elements must be carried out after completion of calculations and marking of the structure.

Overview of fittings for metal-plastic systems

To prepare for work, it is important to cut the pipes into sections of the required length, and all cuts must be made strictly at right angles. If the pipe becomes deformed during the cutting process, it must be leveled with a gauge (it will also help remove the internal chamfer).

Various types of fasteners are used to install the structure; we will dwell on them separately.

Option #1: collet

Push-in fittings, consisting of a body, a ferrule, and a rubber gasket, have a detachable design, so they can be used several times. The thread of the parts allows them to be combined with household appliances.

To connect the connecting elements to the pipe, you need to put a nut and a ring in series. Insert the resulting structure into the fitting and tighten the nut. To make it easier for the pipe to pass into the connecting element, it is advisable to wet it.

Option #2: compression

Widely used for connecting pipes are parts that can be called conditionally detachable. Before installation, it is important to ensure the presence of o-rings and dielectric gaskets, which should be located on the shank of the part.

To connect, a nut and a ferrule are put on the end of the pipe (if it has the shape of a cone, then the process is carried out on the narrower side of the part). After this, the shank is inserted into the pipe (this requires some effort), and in order to seal, the part is covered with tow, flax, and sealant.

The next step is to put the union nut on the fitting body and tighten it. It is convenient to do this with the help of two keys: one of them fixes the part, the other tightens the nut.

This method is quite easy and does not require the use of special equipment, however, it is not advisable to use it for hidden wiring, since it requires checking the connection.

Option #3: push fittings

Convenient connecting elements that do not require special tools for fastening. For installation, it is enough to insert the product into the connecting part, and the end of the pipe should be visible in the inspection window.

Immediately upon completion of installation, thanks to the included water jet, the fitting wedge is pushed forward, forming a clamp that prevents leakage.

This method allows you to quickly and easily create necessary design, providing high-quality durable connections. Almost the only drawback of push fittings is their high cost.

Option #4: press fittings

These elements are used to create permanent connections using press jaws or similar devices.

To connect, you need to calibrate the part by removing the fez from it, after which the sleeve is put on it and the fitting is inserted. The sleeve is grabbed by press jaws, after which the part is firmly clamped by bringing the handle together.

This element can only be used once, but the fasteners mounted with it are quite tight and reliable, making them suitable for hidden wiring.

Installation of pipes from different types of materials

To connect elements, one of which is made of metal and the other of metal-plastic, special fittings are designed, one end of which is equipped with a thread, and the other with a socket.

For installation, a metal pipe needs to be threaded, wrapped in tow, lubricated with soap or silicone, and then put on the fitting by hand. After its second end is connected to plastic element, the thread is tightened completely using a wrench.

Assortment of fittings of different shapes

For ease of installation, the connecting elements can have different shapes. The most common are:

adapters for connecting pipes with different diameters;
tees providing branches from the central pipe;
corners for changing the direction of flow;
water sockets (installation elbows);
crosspieces that allow you to organize different flow directions for 4 pipes.

Press fittings can have a special configuration (couplings, triangles, tees).

Do-it-yourself technology for installing metal-plastic pipes

How to properly install metal-plastic pipes with your own hands. What fittings are used when installing the pipeline. Wiring diagrams and assembly technology

Steel pipes are gradually being forced out of the market: worthy competitors have appeared that cost less, are easier to install, and serve no less. For example, hot and cold water supply and heating systems are made from metal-plastic. How to properly install metal-plastic pipes, what fittings to use when, how to use them to connect sections into a single whole - all this will be discussed.

Types of fittings for metal-plastic pipes

The structure of metal-plastic pipes is such that it is impossible to weld or solder them. Therefore, all branches and some bends are made using fittings - special elements of different configurations - tees, adapters, angles, etc. With their help, a system of any configuration can be assembled. The disadvantage of this technology is the high cost of fittings and the time that will have to be spent on their installation.

An approximate range of fittings for installing metal-plastic pipes with a press

The advantage of metal-plastic pipes is that they bend well. This allows you to use fewer fittings (they are expensive). In general, fittings for metal-plastic pipes are:

Crimping.
Press fittings (press fittings).

Deciding what type of fittings to use is easy. Crimping ones are used for pipelines that are always accessible - connections need to be tightened over time. Pressed ones can be walled up. That's the whole choice - you need to know what type of installation of metal-plastic pipes will be in a specific area.

Appearance of some fittings with union nuts - screw or crimp

A common disadvantage of metal-plastic pipes is that due to the design of the fittings at each connection, the cross-section of the pipeline becomes narrower. If there are few connections and the route is not long, this cannot have any consequences. Otherwise, either an increase in the cross-section of the pipeline or a pump with more power is necessary.

Preparation for installation

First of all, you need to draw the entire plumbing or heating system on a piece of paper. At all branch locations, draw the fitting that needs to be installed and label it. This makes it convenient to count them.

Tools

To work, in addition to the pipe and purchased fittings, you will need:

Pipe cutter A device resembling scissors. Ensures the correct location of the cut - strictly perpendicular to the surface of the pipe. This is very important.

This tool is used to cut metal-plastic (and other) pipes

Calibrator (caliber) for metal-plastic pipes. During the cutting process, the pipe is slightly flattened, and its edges are slightly bent inward. A calibrator is just needed to restore the shape and straighten the edges. Ideally, the edges are flared outward - this will make the connection more reliable.

Types of calibrators

A countersink is a device for chamfering. A construction knife or piece will also work sandpaper. Calibrators often have a chamfering tab, so this tool can be dispensed with.
Equipment for installing fittings:
Basically everything. Instead of a pipe cutter, you can use a saw with a metal blade, but you will need to make cuts strictly perpendicular to the surface. If you don't trust your eye, take a carpenter's miter box.

Preparation procedure

Metal-plastic pipes of small diameter are sold in coils. Before installation, a piece of the required length is cut from the coil. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the length that extends onto the fitting. That is, you need to cut off a piece with a small margin - 1.2-1.5 cm.

The edges of the section are inspected, if there are burrs (there are no burrs when cutting with a pipe cutter, this is a drawback when cutting with a saw), they are leveled. Next, using a chamfer remover or a piece of sandpaper, they remove the chamfer - grind the plastic at an angle both inside and outside the pipe.

We cut, calibrate, chamfer

After this, they take the calibrator, forcefully drive it into the pipe and turn it, align the geometry, at the same time straightening the edges that are “crushed” inward. After this, you can begin installing metal-plastic pipes and fittings.

How to level a piece of metal-plastic pipe

As already mentioned, this type of pipe comes in coils, that is, they are twisted. After cutting a piece, you will straighten it a little with your hands, but how to achieve perfect evenness. This is important if the pipeline installation is open. The recipe is simple:

After the segment becomes smooth, you can calibrate its edges.

Installation of metal-plastic pipes using compression fittings

Compression fittings consist of several parts. The base is a cast body with threads. There is also a ferrule that secures the piece of pipe to the fitting and a union nut that clamps the connection. An important part is the O-ring, which ensures tightness.

This installation method is good because it does not require any special equipment. The second advantage is that the connection is detachable and, if necessary, the fitting can be replaced. If it fails or there is a need to change the pipeline configuration. And it's very convenient.

But there is also a drawback: from time to time, a leak occurs on the threads. It can be fixed simply by tightening it half a turn. But because of this, all connections must be accessible and cannot be bricked up. Also annoying is the need to check whether it leaked or not. Not everyone likes it.

This is what compression fittings look like

The range of fittings is wide: angles, tees, crosses, adapters (from one diameter to another). And all this with different angles, in different diameters.

Installation of metal-plastic pipes on compression fittings begins with removing the union nut and ferrule ring and checking for the presence of a rubber seal. After this, the assembly actually begins:

That's all, the installation process of the compression (screw, threaded) fitting is completed. There is only one caveat: if you fill the system with antifreeze, change the gaskets immediately. The ones that come with the kit will leak with anti-freeze very quickly. Use paronite or teflon ones. Only they can ensure tightness. In general, for systems with antifreeze it is better to use press fittings. They definitely don't leak (if crimped correctly).

Installation of crimp (press or push) fittings on MP pipes

Installation of metal-plastic pipes using compression fittings requires special pliers. There are manual ones and there are electric ones. Any are equipped with a set of linings for different diameters. Manual ones, of course, are cheaper. You don’t have to buy this equipment—you’ll only need it once. It is much more profitable to rent.

Press fitting for MP pipes

The press fitting consists of two parts - the body itself and the compression sleeve. Before connecting metal-plastic pipes, the cut is prepared. It is the same as when using compression fittings, but the chamfer is removed only from the inside. The following is the procedure:
- A sleeve is placed on the pipe.
- A gasket is installed on the fitting to prevent electrochemical corrosion.
- The tube is put on the fitting until it stops. There is a hole on the fitting body in which the edge of the pipe should be visible.
- Take pliers in which suitable pads (of the required diameter) are installed. The pliers are installed close to the edge of the fitting, connecting the handles of the press together and crimping the part. As a result, two concave stripes should be clearly visible on the sleeve. Their depth should be the same. After crimping, the fittings can rotate around the pipe.
That's all, the installation of metal-plastic pipes using a press fitting is completed. Such a joint can withstand pressures of up to 10 atm, which is sufficient for most systems. Not suitable only for heating systems of houses with several storeys. more than 16. Their system pressure may be higher.

How to bend a metal-plastic pipe

Often when installing metal-plastic pipes, it becomes necessary to bend the pipe. This can be done by hand or using a spring. It’s easier and faster to work with a spring, but you have to buy one (it’s inexpensive). The spring is inserted inside the pipe and bent in the required direction. The pipe follows the bend, the spring is removed. It is easy to bend metal-plastic pipes with a spring - no great effort is required, the actions are easily controlled, and it is possible to correct the result.

What's good this method- you will not be able to squeeze the walls, which happens when you apply excessive force in manual way. It is also impossible to make a sharper bend (with a radius less than the minimum) and compress the walls at the bend, narrowing the flow section.

Spring for bending metal-plastic pipes

You need to bend MP pipes by hand gradually. Take it with your hands on both sides of the bend (at the same distance from the center of the future arc), with your thumbs supporting the pipe from below. In this position, begin to lower the edges down, while at the same time pressing upward with your thumbs.

Manual bending of metal-plastic pipes

With this method, sometimes the pipe loses its geometry due to excessive efforts. This negatively affects its throughput. Such areas cannot be installed in water supply or heating. To avoid such situations, the bend area is heated. This can only be done with a hair dryer. Open fire must not be used. Heated plastic is easy to bend. At the same time, it does not compress (the main thing is not to overdo it).

Methods for bending MP pipes

Another way to avoid deformation is to pour sand inside. It will not allow the walls to shrink.

How to attach to walls

When the pipeline is laid open, it must be fixed to the walls in some way. Usually special ones are used for this plastic clips. They are single - for laying one pipeline thread. Typically used for plumbing installations. There are double ones - most often they are installed for heating - supply and return to two-pipe systems go in parallel.

Clips for mounting metal-plastic pipes on the wall

These clips are installed every meter (as often as possible). A hole is drilled in the wall for each, and a dowel of the required type is inserted (selected depending on the type of material from which the walls are made). A large load is not expected, but plumbing and heating look much more attractive if everything is laid out evenly, as if on a ruler.

Non-standard connections: with metal pipes, transition to a different diameter

When replacing plumbing or heating, it is often necessary to combine metal and metal-plastic. Most often this happens at the outlet from the riser. In this case, the metal pipe is cut at a certain distance - 3-5 cm, and a thread is cut on it. Next, a fitting with a union nut (collet) or internal thread is screwed onto the thread. Further installation of metal-plastic pipes proceeds according to conventional technology.

Some types of fittings that can be used when switching from metal to metal-plastic

Fitting is selected according to diameter metal pipe, and the thread on the adapter must be internal - the external thread is cut on the pipe. This connection requires sealing. Wrap with flax and coat with packaging paste or simply use fum tape.

The connection of two pipes of different diameters occurs in exactly the same way. All you need is an appropriate adapter fitting with nuts/nipples of the appropriate diameter.

Example of water supply system layout

First, we draw a water supply layout plan. This can be done on a piece of paper, marking the necessary fittings. Please note that installation of taps requires installation of a fitting with a thread at the end. Cranes are needed on bends to household appliances and to plumbing fixtures and heating radiators. This makes it possible to turn off devices without shutting down the entire system. The type of thread and its size are selected depending on the type of tap used.

An example of a water supply system using metal-plastic pipes

Also, transition fittings are needed before and after the meter (water or heating depends on the type of system). Having drawn detailed plan, put down dimensions in all areas. Using this drawing, you calculate how much and what you need. Fittings can be purchased strictly according to the list, and it is advisable to take pipes with some reserve. Firstly, you could make a mistake when measuring, and secondly, in the absence of experience, you can spoil some piece - cut off less than required or crimp incorrectly, etc.

Agree on the possibility of an exchange

When purchasing everything you need, agree with the seller that you can exchange/return some fittings if necessary. Even professionals often make mistakes with them, and even more so those who decide to do the wiring of a plumbing or heating system from metal-plastic with their own hands. No one will take the rest of the pipe back from you, but fittings will easily be taken back. But to be sure, keep the receipt.

Sometimes it is more convenient to use collectors. They allow you to connect several consumers in parallel. There are collectors for plumbing and for heating (when installing heated floors)

When and how to start work

When you get home, lay out the fittings and proceed: installation of metal-plastic pipes in the summer can be done immediately, in the winter you need to wait some time (12 hours) until all the elements warm up to room temperature. It is advisable to cut one piece of pipe of the required length at a time. It's a little longer, but you definitely won't get confused. Further actions depend on the selected type of fittings.

Heating installation with metal-plastic pipes is done only with press fittings

After completing the installation of metal-plastic pipes, the pipeline is checked. If it is a water supply, just open the tap at the inlet. This must be done gradually and smoothly. The system will immediately begin to fill with water. If nothing leaks anywhere, you did everything right. If any connections are leaking, they must either be redone if press fittings were used, or tightened if the assembly was based on crimp connectors.

If a heating system was assembled from metal-plastic pipes, before starting it must be pressurized - tested with increased pressure by pumping it into the system cold water. If the test was successful, you can do a test run of the heating.

Video on the topic

Once again, specialists from Valtek, whose products are considered one of the best in this market, will explain how to properly install metal-plastic pipes.