An axial wind generator that runs on neodymium magnets was first mass produced in Western countries. And these were not factory products at all, but the fruit of the labor of local garage craftsmen who put the phenomenon of levitation into their service. These windmill models owe their serious popularity to the mass distribution and low cost of neodymium magnets. Gradually, components and steel manufacturing schemes will spread throughout the world and currently the magnetic axial wind generator is gaining recognition throughout the world Russian Federation. Below is the sequence of creating one of the most successful models of such a windmill.

Rotor creation process

The author of the development decided to make the car hub with brake discs the basis of the generator, since it is powerful, reliable and perfectly balanced. When you start making a windmill with your own hands, you should first prepare the base for the rotor - the hub - and clean it of dirt, paint and grease. Then start gluing the permanent magnets. To create this wind generator, twenty of them were used on a disk. The size of the neodymium magnets was 25x8 millimeters. However, both their number and their size can vary depending on the goals and objectives of a person, their with my own hands creating a wind generator. However, to obtain one phase it will always be correct to equalize the number of poles to the number of neodymium magnets, and for three phases to maintain the ratio of poles and coils - two to three or three to four.

The magnets should be positioned taking into account the alternation of poles, and as accurately as possible, but before you start sticking them, you need to either create a paper template or draw lines dividing the disk into sectors. To avoid mixing up the poles, we make marks on the magnets. The main thing is to fulfill the following requirement: those magnets that stand opposite each other must be turned with different poles, that is, attract each other.

The magnets are glued to the disks using super glue and filled in. You also need to make borders along the edges of the disks and in their center, either by wrapping tape or molding them from plasticine to prevent spreading.

Phases - which is better - three or one?

Many lovers electrical engineering They follow the path of least resistance and, in order not to bother, opt for a single-phase stator for a windmill. However, it has one unpleasant feature that neutralizes the ease of assembly - vibration when loaded, due to the variability of current output. After all, the amplitude of such a stator is abrupt, reaching a maximum when neodymium magnets are located above the coils, and then dropping to a minimum.

But when the generator is made using a three-phase system, there are no vibrations, and the power indicator of the windmill has a constant value. The reason for this difference is that the current, falling in one phase, at the same time increases in the other. And as a result, a wind generator operating in a three-phase system can be up to 50% more efficient than exactly the same, but using single phase system. And most importantly, a loaded three-phase generator does not produce vibration, therefore, the mast does not give rise to complaints about the wind generator to the supervisory authorities from ill-wishers among neighbors, since it does not create an annoying hum.

Winding method for windmill stator coil

In order for a do-it-yourself wind generator on neodymium magnets to work with maximum efficiency, the stator coils should be calculated. However, most craftsmen prefer to do them by eye. For example, a low-speed generator capable of charging a 12 V battery starting from 100 - 150 rpm should have from 1000 to 1200 turns in all coils, equally divided between all coils. An increase in the number of poles leads to an increase in the frequency of the current in the coils, due to which the generator, even at low speeds, produces more power.

The coils should be wound with thicker wires if possible, in order to reduce the resistance in them. This can be done on a mandrel or on a homemade machine.

In order to figure out what power potential the generator has, spin it with one coil, because, depending on how many neodymium magnets will be installed and how thick they are, this indicator may differ significantly. The measurements are carried out without load at the required number of revolutions. For example, if a generator at 200 rpm provides a voltage of 30 V, having a resistance of 3 ohms, then subtract 12 V (battery supply voltage) from 30 V and the resulting result is 18 divided by 3 (resistance in ohms) we get 6 ( current in amperes), which will go from the wind generator to charge the battery. However, as practice shows, due to losses in the wires and diode bridge, the actual indicator that the magnetic axial generator will produce will be less.

It is better to take magnets for creating a wind generator in the shape of a rectangle, since their field extends along the length, unlike round ones, the field of which is concentrated in the center. Coils are usually wound round, although it is better to make them somewhat elongated, which provides a larger volume of copper in the sector, as well as straighter turns. The hole inside the coils must be equal to or greater than the width of the magnets.

The thickness of the stator should be the same as the magnets. The form for it is usually plywood; for strength, fiberglass is placed under the coils and on top of them, and the whole thing is filled with epoxy resin. In order to prevent the resin from sticking to the mold, the latter is lubricated with any fat or adhesive tape is used. The wires are first brought out and fastened together, the ends of each phase are then connected with a triangle or an asterisk.

Mast for wind generator

The mast on which this generator will be located can be made 6 meters or higher in height; the higher, the higher the wind speed. A hole should be dug under it and a concrete base should be poured, and the pipe should be strengthened so that the magnetic axial wind generator, made by yourself, can be lowered and raised. This can be done using a mechanical hoist.

wind turbine propeller

It is made from polyvinyl chloride pipes, whose optimal diameter for this is 160 mm. For example, a wind generator operating on the principle of magnetic levitation, with a diameter of two meters and six blades, with a wind speed of 8 meters per second, is capable of providing power up to 300 W.

How to increase the power of a windmill?

Magnets can be used for lifting. Simply stick another one of the same or thinner onto the magnets that are already installed. Another method is based on installing metal cores, called transformer plates, into coils. This will ensure increased magnetic flux in the coil, but causes slight sticking, which, however, is not felt at all by the six-blade propeller. Such a wind generator starts at a wind of 2 m/s. Thanks to the use of cores, the generator received an increase in power from 300 to 500 W/h with a wind of 8 m/s. You should also pay attention to the shape of the blades - the slightest inaccuracies reduce power.

Neodymium magnet is a rare earth metal that is resistant to demagnetization and has the ability to magnetize certain materials. Used in making electronic devices(computer hard drives, metal detectors, etc.), medicine and energy.

Neodymium magnets are used in the manufacture of generators operating in various types installations that generate electric current.

Currently, generators made using neodymium magnets are widely used in the manufacture of wind turbines.

Main Features

In order to determine the feasibility of manufacturing a generator using neodymium magnets, you need to consider the main characteristics of this material, which are:

• Magnetic induction IN- strength characteristic of a magnetic field, measured in Tesla.
• Residual magnetic induction Br- the magnetization possessed by a magnetic material at an external magnetic field strength equal to zero, measured in Tesla.
• Coercive magnetic force Hc— determines the magnet’s resistance to demagnetization, measured in Amperes/meter.
• Magnetic energy (BH)max- characterizes how strong a magnet is.
• Temperature coefficient of residual magnetic induction Tc of Br– determines the dependence of magnetic induction on ambient temperature, measured as a percentage per degree Celsius.
• Maximum operating temperature Tmax— determines the temperature limit at which the magnet temporarily loses its magnetic properties, measured in degrees Celsius.
• Curie temperature Tcur— defines the temperature limit at which a neodymium magnet is completely demagnetized, measured in degrees Celsius.

The composition of neodymium magnets, in addition to neodymium, includes iron and boron and depending on their percentage, the resulting product, the finished magnet, differs in classes, differing in their characteristics given above. A total of 42 classes of neodymium magnets are produced.

The advantages of neodymium magnets that determine their demand are:

• Neodymium magnets have the highest magnetic parameters Br, Hsv, Hcm, VN.
• Such magnets have more low cost in comparison with similar metals containing cobalt.
• They have the ability to operate without loss of magnetic characteristics in the temperature range from – 60 to + 240 degrees Celsius, with a Curie point of +310 degrees.
• From this material it is possible to make magnets of any shape and size (cylinders, disks, rings, balls, rods, cubes, etc.).

Wind generator on neodymium magnets with a power of 5.0 kW

Currently, domestic and foreign companies are increasingly using neodymium magnets in the manufacture of low-speed electric current generators. Thus, Salmabash LLC, Gatchina, Leningrad Region, produces similar generators for permanent magnets power 3.0-5.0 kW. Appearance of this device is shown below:

The generator housing and covers are made of steel, later coated paint and varnish materials. The housing is equipped with special fastenings that allow you to secure the electrical device to the supporting mast. Inner surface processed protective coating, preventing metal corrosion.

The generator stator is made of electrical steel plates.

The stator winding is made of enamel wire, allowing the device to operate for a long time at maximum load.

The generator rotor has 18 poles and is mounted in bearing supports. Neodymium magnets are placed on the rotor rim.

The generator does not require forced cooling, which is carried out naturally.

Technical characteristics of the 5.0 kW generator:

• Rated power – 5.0 kW;
• Rated frequency – 140.0 rpm;
• Operating rotation range – 50.0 – 200.0 rpm;
• Maximum frequency – 300.0 rpm;
• Efficiency – not less than 94.0%;
• Cooling – air;
• Weight – 240.0 kg.

The generator is equipped with a terminal box through which it is connected to electrical network. The protection class corresponds to GOST 14254 and has a degree of IP 65 (dust-proof design with protection from jets of water).

The design of this generator is shown in the figure below:

where: 1-body, 2-bottom cover, 3-top cover, 4-rotor, 5-neodymium magnets, 6-stator, 7-winding, 8-coupling half, 9-seals, 10,11,12-bearings, 13 - terminal box.

Pros and cons

The advantages of wind generators made using neodymium magnets include the following characteristics:

• High efficiency of devices, achieved by minimizing friction losses;
• Long service life;
• No noise or vibration during operation;
• Reduced costs for installation and installation of equipment;
• Autonomy of operation, allowing operation without constant maintenance of the installation;
• Possibility of self-production.

The disadvantages of such devices include:

• Relatively high cost;
• Fragility. Under strong external influence (impact), a neodymium magnet can lose its properties;
• Low corrosion resistance, requiring special coating neodymium magnets;
• Dependence on temperature regime work - when exposed to high temperatures, neodymium magnets lose their properties.

How to make it yourself

A wind generator based on neodymium magnets differs from other generator designs in that it can easily be made independently at home.

As a rule, they take as a basis a car hub or pulleys from a belt drive, which are pre-cleaned if they are used spare parts and prepared for work.

If it is possible to manufacture (turn) special discs, it is better to choose this option, because... in this case, there is no need to adjust the geometric dimensions of the wound coils to the dimensions of the workpieces used.

Neodymium magnets should be purchased, for which you can use the Internet or the services of specialized organizations.

One of the options for manufacturing a generator on neodymium magnets, using disks specially made for these purposes, is proposed for consideration by V.G. Yalovenko. (Ukraine). This generator is manufactured in the following sequence:

1. Two disks with a diameter of 170.0 mm are machined from sheet steel with a central hole and a keyway.
2. The disk is divided into 12 segments, and corresponding markings are made on its surface.
3. Magnets are glued into the marked segments so that their polarity alternates. To avoid errors (in polarity), it is necessary to mark them before applying the sticker.
4. The second disk is made in a similar way. The result is the following construction:

1. The surface of the claims is filled with epoxy resin.
2. 12 coils of 55 turns each are wound from wire (enamel wire) brand PETV or an analogue, with a cross-section of 0.95 mm 2 .
3. A template is made on a sheet of plywood or paper that corresponds to the diameter of the disks used, which is also divided into 12 sectors.

The coils are placed in marked segments, where they are fixed (insulating tape, adhesive tape, etc.) and disconnected sequentially from each other (the end of the first coil is connected to the beginning of the second, etc.). the result is the following construction

1. A matrix is ​​made from wood (board, etc.) or plywood, in which coils laid according to a template can be filled with epoxy resin. The depth of the matrix must correspond to the height of the coils.
2. The coils are placed in a matrix and filled with epoxy resin. The result is the following workpiece:

1. From steel pipe with a diameter of 63.0 mm, a hub is manufactured with a mounting unit for the shaft of the generator being manufactured. The shaft is mounted on bearings installed inside the hub.
2. A rotating mechanism is made from the same pipe, ensuring the orientation of the generator in accordance with wind flows.
3. Manufactured spare parts are put on the shaft. The result is the following design, plus a rotating mechanism:

This article is devoted to the creation of an axial wind generator using neodymium magnets with stators without metal. Windmills of this design have become especially popular due to the growing availability of neodymium magnets.

Materials and tools used to build a windmill of this model:

1) a hub from a car with brake discs.
2) drill with a metal brush.
3) 20 neodymium magnets measuring 25 by 8 mm.
4) epoxy resin
5) mastic
6) PVC pipe 160 mm diameter
7) hand winch
8) metal pipe 6 meters long

Let's look at the main stages of building a wind turbine.

The generator was based on a car hub with a brake disc. Since the main part is factory-made, this will serve as a guarantor of quality and reliability. The hub was completely disassembled, the bearings in it were checked for integrity and lubricated. Since the hub was removed from an old car, the rust had to be cleaned off using a brush, which the author attached to a drill.
Below is a photo of the hub.

Then the author proceeded to install magnets on the rotor disks. 20 magnets were used. Moreover, it is important to note that for a single-phase generator the number of magnets involved is equal to the number of poles; for a two-phase generator the ratio will be three to two or four poles to three coils. Magnets should be mounted on disks with alternating poles. To maintain accuracy, you need to make a placement template on paper, or draw sector lines directly on the disk itself.

You should also mark the magnets along the poles with a marker. You can determine the poles by bringing the magnets one by one to one side of the testing magnet, if attracted - plus, repelled - minus, the main thing is that the poles alternate when installed on the disk. This is necessary because the magnets on the disks must attract each other, and this will only happen if the magnets facing each other are of different polarities.

The magnets were glued to the disks using epoxy resin. To prevent the resin from spreading beyond the boundaries of the disk, the author made borders along the edges using mastic; the same can be done using tape, simply wrapping the wheel in a circle.

Let's consider the main differences in the design of single-phase and three-phase generators.
A single-phase generator will vibrate under load, which will affect the power of the generator itself. The three-phase design is devoid of such a disadvantage due to which the power is constant at any time. This happens because the phases compensate for the loss of current in each other. According to the author's conservative calculations, the three-phase design is superior to the single-phase design by as much as 50 percent. In addition, due to the absence of vibrations, the mast will not swing additionally, and therefore there will be no additional noise when the rotor operates.

When calculating the charging of the 12th battery, which will begin at 100-150 rpm, the author made 1000-1200 turns in the coils. When winding the coils, the author used the maximum allowable wire thickness to avoid resistance.
To wind wire onto spools, the author built a homemade machine, photographs of which are presented below.

It is better to use ellipsoidal coils, which will allow a higher density of magnetic fields to cross them. The inner hole of the coil should be made to match the diameter of the magnet or larger than it. If you make them smaller, then the frontal parts practically do not participate in the generation of electricity, but serve as conductors.

The thickness of the stator itself must be equal to the thickness of the magnets that are involved in the installation.

The mold for the stator can be made from plywood, although the author solved this issue differently. A template was drawn on paper, and then the sides were made using mastic. Fiberglass was also used for strength. To prevent the epoxy resin from sticking to the mold, it must be lubricated with wax or Vaseline, or you can use tape, a film that can later be torn off from the finished mold.

Before pouring, the coils must be precisely secured, and their ends must be brought out of the mold in order to then connect the wires with a star or triangle.

After the main part of the generator was assembled, the author measured and tested its operation. When manually rotated, the generator produces a voltage of 40 volts and a current of 10 amperes.

Then the author made a mast for the generator 6 meters high. In the future, it is planned to increase the height of the mast by using at least twice as thick a pipe. To keep the mast stationary, the base was filled with concrete. To lower and raise the mast it was done metal mount. This is necessary to have access to the screw on the ground, since repair work It's not particularly comfortable at altitude.

Axial 20-pole wind generator

Wind generator axial type based on the finished hub and three-phase generator, which contains 15 coils wound with 0.7 mm wire, 70 turns each. The rotor of this generator has 20 pairs of magnets measuring 20 by 5 mm, and the stator thickness is 8 mm. This model uses a two-blade propeller and a strong wind protection system.

Materials and units used to build this wind generator:

1) car hub
2) epoxy resin
3) metal corners
4) magnets measuring 20 by 5 mm, 40 pieces
5) pipe 20
6) superglue
7) Vaseline
8) trailer hub "notch"
9) plywood
10) laminate 8 mm
11) wire 0.7 mm thick

Let us consider in more detail the main stages of construction and design features of this wind generator model.

To make it, the author used a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm, so it just fits the size of the magnets. The author decided to make coils 7 mm thick.
Another image homemade machine for winding coils:

The author notes that thanks to this machine, assembled from scrap materials, winding the coils went without any particular difficulties. The main thing is to wind the coils turn to turn, giving a slight tension so that the turns are pressed closer to each other.

So, the author began making coils for the generator. To prevent the coils from falling apart after winding, the author coated them with glue for plastic, and also additionally wrapped them with window tape. To wind the coils, the author used 0.7 mm thick wire, 70 turns per coil. Although after the final assembly the author decided that it was necessary to make 90 turns each, this would allow him to win in terms of voltage.

Next, a mold was made to fill the stator. The author decided to make the form on a plywood backing. To do this, markings were applied to the plywood, which will allow the coils to be placed more accurately. The middle part of the mold is made of 8 mm thick laminate. To prevent the epoxy resin from sticking to the mold, the author lubricated it with Vaseline, this will then make it easy to remove the stator from the workpiece after the epoxy resin has hardened.

Special grooves were made for the wires using a grinder.

The stator coils were connected in phases, all six wires from the phases were routed out through grooves, after which the wires were covered with plasticine so that the resin did not leak out. Subsequently, the author connected the phases with a star.

The next day, the stator was removed from the mold, and the author lightly processed the edges for evenness. The author also decided to fill the magnets on the disks with epoxy resin for greater reliability.

In the photographs below you can see how the rotary axis of the wind generator was made:

The basis for the manufacture of the rotary axle was a car hub. In order to protect the future wind generator from too strong winds, the author used a standard wind deflection design by folding the tail. It is important to note that the wind head must be moved out at least 100 mm, otherwise the wind protection will not work since the generator axis will be located too close to the rotary axis.
A pin was also welded to the structure at an angle of 20 degrees and 45 degrees relative to the screw; the tail of the wind generator is placed on this pin.

Let's look at the design of the generator hub.

The generator itself was based on the hub from the Zubrenok trailer. The author used neodymium magnets measuring 20x5 mm. Each disk took 20 magnets. The hub was screwed through a plate to which the angles were attached. The generator stator will be held on studs.

Next, the author began making disks with magnets.
The magnets were attached to the disks using superglue. In order to do everything as accurately as possible, the author made a template from cardboard. It is also important to note that the magnets must be glued with alternating poles, so that the disks with magnets are attracted to the generator.

Below you can see exactly how the tail of the wind generator was secured, which will protect it from strong winds:

In the photograph, the wind head was placed too close to the rotating axis of the wind generator, which was subsequently discovered during testing and corrected. However, the tail mount itself and the angles of inclination are correct. After finishing the design, it showed itself perfectly: when the wind increases, the propeller turns away, and the tail folds and rises.

The generator was then assembled and painted. After painting, the author decided to test the operation of the generator. By hand we managed to spin up the generator to 30 volts with a short-circuit current of 4.5 A.

This generator runs on 3 LED strips 25 watts each, but in the future the author plans to take a more serious approach to calculating the screw for the generator and connecting the battery.

article taken from the Internet: http://usamodelkina.ru/

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Wind generator based on homemade axial disk generator. I built it a couple of years ago.

The design of this generator is the first thing you find on the network of practical models of wind turbines. In a narrow circle we call them bourgeois. It was they who began to use this generator layout, due to the availability of rare earth magnets. Now in our country this model is repeated quite often.
At first glance, this is the most affordable design. This is partly true, but the efficiency of iron-free stators is much lower than those with iron. For such generators, magnets are needed thicker, and the quantity is twice as large. So, more about the essence of the project.
The generator has 16 pairs of poles. The magnets used were neodymium disk. Diameter 27 mm, height 8 mm. Very serious stuff. Serious injury may occur if handled carelessly! 12 coils were used. Three-phase generator. Star connection.
To wind the coils, 0.9 mm wire was used, although the calculation was made for 1.06 mm wire. But he was not there at that time. For this reason, there is empty space between the coils, and the generator has not reached its design parameters. I wound the coils on a homemade machine. Nothing special.

The design can be absolutely anything.



For the stator, a plywood mold was made.

After treating the mold with Vaseline (necessary so that the cast stator can be easily removed from the mold), I positioned the coils.
Soldered accordingly.

Divorced epoxy resin with the addition of 30% talc (baby powder). I put fiberglass mesh on the bottom of the mold and on top of the coils, since it is more convenient for me to work with it than with fiberglass. I poured the stator, gradually adding resin so that air bubbles came out.
In order to tighten the cover, I marked it so that the screws would pass through the hole in the coil (so as not to damage it). I covered the coil hole with plasticine (removed it after drying) for better cooling.
The next day, I removed the finished stator from the mold without any problems. It turned out smooth and beautiful.

To make the rotor, I took the rear hub assembly from a VAZ 2108. It's not expensive and quite powerful. At the car service they gave me brake discs, again from eight (nine). Discs diameter 240 mm. thickness 10 mm. Having polished work surface, glued magnets. I glued it with superglue, then filled it with epoxy resin.

I welded the wind head and attached the generator to it. The tail is rigidly fixed, that is, storm protection is not performed.

Blades from PVC pipes diameter 160 mm. I made both a three-bladed version and a five-bladed one. Both options worked fine.

Some conclusions.
Charging the battery begins almost as soon as it starts to rotate (and it rotates from any blow). 1-2 amps from a light breeze, with small gusts 4-5 amps. With normal winds around 10 A.
Conclusion: the goal has been achieved (charging the battery in light winds).

In strong winds I recorded 20 A, but the device does not show more.
This model has now been dismantled. Upon inspection, no damage was found, although everything was not even painted.
I plan to do some experiments with it.

Well, here are the actual bullying that I was talking about.
I want to check one more option. Use annealed iron filings instead of ets in the generator stator.
The sawdust is neither small nor large.
Since everything was done under very limited time conditions, and the temperature was 10, no matter how it contributed to the feat of labor, the results were appropriate. Again, a ready-made stator was used, which was not intended for this. However, everything is in order. The photo shows the whole process. I mixed sawdust not with epoxy, but with silicone sealant.
The result was a plastic mass that was easy to work with.

And a test table for this option.

I think this option, carried out according to all the rules, will give a completely working option.