The craftsman brothers built a jet ski from plywood. DIY jet ski - drawings for a homemade jet ski Jet ski made of plywood

For design and construction homemade jet ski It took several winter and spring months. In the summer, Stanislav hung a Veterok outboard motor (eight horsepower) on the transom board and lowered the Marlin... into the city pond. The jet ski even planes there with one rider! But for a trip together, the power of the Veterok engine was not enough. Later, another engine was tested - an unusual combination of “Whirlwind” and “Hello”.

The fact is that in the SLA Rotor club, in which Stanislav worked, the “tops” of the Privetov-22 boats went to the manufacture of delta engines. And all the corners of the club were littered with the “lower classes” who remained out of work. There, in the corner, rested the delta “Vikhr-ZOE”, which the pilots did not like, with electronic non-contact ignition. Without thinking twice, Stanislav made an adapter plate from duralumin, unfolding the “Whirlwind” on it so that it could articulate with the “Hello” column and fit under its hood. The first tests homemade jet ski with the new engine they showed: this is what we need! Already at a speed of 50 km/h, the jet ski confidently reached planing and easily towed a water skier.

To transport his device, the designer built a nimble trailer cart with rubber-lined supports. Together - wife Olga took the bow, and Stanislav took the transom rails - they lifted the Marlin and placed it on the trailer. Then they put the boat motor in the trunk of the car and drove home from the garage to pick up the children so that the whole family could go out of town to a pond. And often - to a rather distant one. For example, the Korovins repeatedly stopped on the banks of the Nugush reservoir, located 80 km from Kumertau.

"Marlin" floats very well. It is possible to turn it over only with great effort. Therefore, unlike similar imported devices, you can catch fish from its deck (fortunately there is somewhere to put it!), without fear of waves from a passing vessel, you can stand calmly at full height, and an adult can climb onto it from the water not only from the transom , but even from the board. The Marlin tilts, but does not capsize. What about management? It is so simple and easy that Olga, who had never touched the steering wheel of a car or motorcycle before, mastered it on the first try! In addition, the device is quite cheap to operate, because its fuel is quite affordable A-76 gasoline, while a foreign jet ski requires expensive Ai-95 and equally expensive imported oil.

CASE CONSTRUCTION Housing jet ski consists of many isolated compartments: bow and stern trunks, as well as twelve (six per side) side sealed volumes formed by frames, longitudinal walls, deck and bottom. In addition, the sides provide additional buoyancy to the apparatus, since they are also small, but sealed cavities. The structural materials from which Marlin is made are fiberglass (a multilayer composition of fiberglass, mainly T-25 grade, and epoxy binder) and foam plastic (mostly PS-200 grade). In the manufacture of individual components and parts of the jet ski, duralumin, stainless steel, plywood, wood and leatherette were used. The body of the apparatus was made in parts.

Separately, the fairing of the nose trunk, the bottom and the sides were glued (usually from four layers of fiberglass with epoxy glue) onto plywood blocks. The fairing is reinforced from the inside with three upper stringers and four oblique linings, and the bottom is reinforced with four stringers (inside) and two longitudinal steps (outside). All these reinforcements are strips of foam plastic of various sections, covered with fiberglass tapes. A powerful keel beam is also glued into the bottom - a thick-walled duralumin profile, to the front end of which a heel - the steering shaft bearing - is bolted.

After joining the nose cone and the bottom, the line of their connection from the inside was also reinforced with two side stringers - wide strips of foam plastic and the same wide strips of fiberglass with epoxy glue. From the outside (front), the fairing and the bottom are additionally secured with a bow rail made of 18x1 mm titanium pipe. The first physically real frame No. 6 (frames No. 1-5 are conditional) is entirely cut out of a sheet of foam plastic 20 mm thick, covered on both sides with fiberglass and inserted into the opening intended for it, where it separates the bow trunk from the rest of the hull.

The frame is not solid: in the middle there is an inclined hole drilled in it for the exit of the steering shaft, and two luggage hatches with removable covers are cut on the sides. (The latter are equipped with quick-release hood locks that can be opened with the tip of a screwdriver or even the edge of a coin.) Frames No. 7 and 8 are similar in composition to the sixth: foam plastic and a layer of fiberglass with “epoxy” on the sides. Power circuit the buildings are complemented by four longitudinal element made of 20 mm thick foam plastic glued on both sides: two bulkheads stretching from frame No. 6 to the transom and hidden under the deck, and two walls protruding above the deck and forming the volume of the aft trunk.

At the rear they are connected by an end wall with a square hole for the passage of the steering rod, and on top of them lies a folding double seat made of foam rubber and leatherette. The seat is hingedly connected by two window hinges to a bracket (an oak block glued between the walls of frame No. 6) and is held in the folded-up position by a simple clamp made of duralumin parts. The transom is obtained by building up the end part of the bottom from the inside with layers of fiberglass with epoxy resin up to a thickness of 5 mm. Further, also from the inside, the transom is reinforced with a layer of foam plastic 5 mm thick (except for the central zone on which the transom board is placed) and finally with four more layers of fiberglass.

The outside of the hull is riveted along the contour of the transom with a strip stainless steel, protruding beyond the housing at the bottom by a maximum of 22 mm. Such a protrusion is necessary so that jets of water during planing do not stick to the transom and do not create additional bottom resistance to the flow. Holes are drilled in the transom to drain water that has leaked into the compartments. The holes are closed with tight plugs. The central area of the transom is fitted with epoxy glue transom board on which a boat motor is hung. The board consists of three layers of plywood of varying thickness.

After installation on the transom, it was covered on both sides with fiberglass (four layers) and reinforced with two duralumin overlays for the motor mounting clamps. This entire package of linings is tightened along the contour with six M5 bolts, and the shelf of the front lining is still attached to the deck with three screws. Since the main force from the engine to the body of the jet ski is transmitted through the transom board and the walls of the aft trunk, the junctions of the board and the walls in the depths of the trunk are reinforced with two triangular gussets made of a 3 mm thick duralumin sheet.

With a rear flange 20 mm wide, each gusset is attached to the board with four screws on epoxy glue, and with a triangular plane - to its wall with four M5 through bolts. Outside, handrails made of duralumin pipe are attached to the transom and transom board with M5 bolts, the brackets of which are riveted from sheet titanium. Among other things, handrails are used when towing a water skier. The halyard (nylon cord with a diameter of 5 mm and a length of 30 m) is attached with a carabiner to the outer brackets of the handrails.

The deck of the jet ski is also made of a sheet of foam plastic 20 mm thick, covered with fiberglass on top. The deck rests on frames No. 7 and 8, longitudinal bulkheads and the ends of the walls of the aft trunk, and in addition, on supports made of foam plastic bars with a cross-section of 20x20 mm, attached with epoxy glue to the walls of the aft trunk. Along the contour, the deck is glued to frame No. 6, the junction of the bottom and sides, and the transom. And in the lower left corner of the transom board there is a hole for draining the water accumulated in the aft trunk, closed with a tight plug, and in the lower right corner there is attached a bracket for an external pressure receiver of the oncoming water flow (speed sensor).

The receiver is connected to the speedometer by a thin rubber hose, laid along the wall of the aft trunk and brought out into special hole in the trunk end cap at deck level. The cables from the battery and the throttle cable from the carburetor throttle control drive on the steering wheel are also laid in the same harness with this hose. From the same end plug, a fuel hose with a booster pump “bulb” embedded in it is brought out (through another hole).

STEERING All controls of the jet ski are concentrated on the steering wheel, located on the cut of the nose trunk fairing. The steering shaft - a steel pipe with a diameter of 20 mm - rotates in two bearings: in the socket of a U-shaped heel, screwed to the keel beam, and in a polyurethane washer built into the decorative steering wheel casing. A steering crossbar made of steel pipe with a diameter of 25 mm, the “horns” of which are equipped with motorcycle handles (the speedometer and controls here are also motorcycle). The steering wheel of the first Marlin did not have a decorative fiberglass cover. But in new version appeared and, I must say, significantly enriched the design of the jet ski. At least it looks finished now.

Approximately in the middle of its length, the steering shaft has a steel bipod, pivotally connected to a rather long duralumin rod. The hinge used is a ShS-6 ball bearing pressed into the end of the bipod, colloquially called a “fish eye”. It allows movement in a wide range of angles, which is very important in a jet ski control system, where control action thrust is transmitted to the massive engine, causing it to turn and change its position on the transom board. The front end of the tie rod is equipped with a tip for connecting to a ball bearing, and the rear end is connected to a rocker mounted on the outboard motor. The “Whirlwind - Hello” engine combination is started using the starter button.

If the battery fails, the starter cord is used. Everything you need during the trip is located on board the Marlin. Onboard property is distributed among the trunks as follows: boat fuel tank with a capacity of 20 liters, towing halyard, fishing gear and other luggage - in the bow; battery, tool box, folding oars and personal belongings are in the stern.

Theoretical drawing jet ski (bottom projection)

Theoretical drawing of a jet ski (hull projection)

Jet ski "Marlin" (engine not shown): 1.9 - holes for draining water from the hull; 2.7 - longitudinal steps; 3.8 - transom handrails; 4 - bracket for remote water pressure receiver (speed sensor); 5 - transom board; 6 - hole for draining water from the aft trunk; 10 - left bow trunk hatch; 11.19 - removable hatch covers; 12 - nose trunk fairing; 13 - double seat; 14-left steering handle; 15 - starter start button and stop switch; 16- speedometer; 17.24 - halves of the decorative steering wheel cover; 18-right steering wheel handle with carburetor throttle control drive (throttle handle); 20 - engine turning rod; 21 - bow rail with support; 22 - steering shaft; 23 - steering wheel fairing; 25 - seat in raised position; 26 - seat hinge; 27 - raised seat lock; 28 - wall of the aft trunk; 29 - steering rod; 30 - bottom of the jet ski

Body of a homemade jet ski: 1 - locking loop of the left hatch cover of the bow trunk; 2,3 - hatch covers of the bow trunk; 4 - transom (foam); 5 - transom board; 6 - bow rail with support (titanium, pipe 18x1; sheet s3); 7 - nose trunk fairing; 8 - right oblique pads; 9 - side walls of the aft trunk; 10-end wall with hole for tie rod; 11.40 - bulwarks (4 layers of fiberglass); 12 - deck (foam); 13- left transom handrail (D16T, pipe 25x2); 14 - frame No. 8; 15 - frame No. 7; 16 - frame No. 6; 17 - bottom stringers; 18 - keel beam (D16T); 19 - “crust” of the keel beam (2 layers of fiberglass); 20- bottom; 21 - deck covering (2 layers of fiberglass); 22 - core of the transom board (plywood s5); 23 - outer layers of the transom board (plywood s 12); 24 - transom board overlays (D16T, SHEET S 3); 25.27 - covering the transom board (4 layers of fiberglass); 26 - trapezoid (gluing fiberglass s5); 28 - right gusset (D16T, sheet s3); 29 - keel part of the bottom (4 layers of fiberglass); 30 - shell of the nose trunk fairing (4 layers of fiberglass); 31 - “crust” of the upper stringer (2 layers of fiberglass); 32 - upper stringer (foam); 33 - bottom shell (4 layers of fiberglass); 34 - left side stringer (foam); 35 - “crust” of the side stringer (2 layers of fiberglass); 36 - bottom stringer (foam); 37 - “crust” of the bottom stringer (2 layers of fiberglass); 38 - seat mounting bracket (oak, block 65x20); 39- hole for the steering shaft; 41 - left bulkhead (foam); 42 - covering the bulkhead (one layer of fiberglass); 43-longitudinal redans (foam); 44-“crust” redan (2 layers of fiberglass); 45 - left deck support (foam); 46 - transom covering (4 layers of fiberglass); 47 - hole for draining water from the housing; 48-hood lock; 49 - filler (foam); 50 - sheathing (2 layers of T-10 fiberglass); 51 - rivets with a diameter of 3; 52- hook (D16T. profile s l,8); 53.55 - handrail mounting brackets (titanium, SHEET S3); 54 - rivets (steel, pipe 8x 1)

Steering: 1 - steering shaft (steel, pipe 20x1.5); 2 - steering wheel (steel, pipe 25x2); 3 - steering rod (D16T, pipe 25x2); 4 - engine rotation lever (D16 T, pipe 25x2); 5 - support-bearing (polyurethane); 6 - cover (steel, sheet s2); 7 - decorative casing (fiberglass); 8 - self-tapping screw 3x10 (8 pcs. along the contour); 9 - ball bearing ShS-6; 10 - tubular rivets (steel, pipe 6x0.5, 3 pcs.); 11,14,17,19 - bolts with self-locking nuts M5; 12 - steering bipod (steel, pipe 24x2, sheet s5); 13 - tip (steel); 15 - socket (steel, pipe 26x3); 16 - heel (steel); 18 - keel beam (D16T); 20 - keel (bottom, fiberglass); 21 - bolt with self-locking nut M6; 22 - earring (steel, sheet s2, 2 pcs.)

Raised seat clamp: 1 - loop (D16T, corner 26x26x2); 2- lever (D16T, sheet s4); 3 - stop (D16T, corner 26x20x2); 4 - “rivet with diameter 5 (AMts)

DIY boat

Jet ski is very good summer fun, you can use it to rush around the pond, take girls for rides, and have fun. Of course, a homemade jet ski is not, it does not have such capacity, but, on the other hand, it is more preferable for entertainment on the surface of the water.

Industrially manufactured jet skis have a water jet-based propulsion system, this is done to ensure safety. However, a water jet has poor fuel consumption characteristics, especially at low speeds, so using an industrial jet ski for water travel is expensive.

Another thing is a homemade jet ski!

Having made a homemade jet ski, you can go on a wide variety of tours on it. And what? Quite a summer trip!
When making a jet ski with your own hands, you can use more economical option and equip a homemade jet ski with ordinary outboard motor. This approach will allow you to use a jet ski both for high-speed “breezy” trips, water skiing, and for long-distance water travel. It is enough just to change the propellers, selecting them for the optimal speed of a given operating mode of the outboard motor.

The most simple view homemade jet ski is the use of a two-float catamaran system. In fact, you only need to install the seat, steering wheel, engine speed control lever and control cable transmission.

The floats of the catamaran are made of polystyrene foam and then lined with fiberglass and epoxy. 5-6 layers of fabric are placed on the bottom of the floats; 3 layers are enough for the sides. In the places where the catamaran is attached to the seat of a homemade jet ski, additional wooden frames are installed, which distribute the weight of the structure and the riders.

One more interesting project homemade jet ski is a project of a 3-float jet ski made by yourself.

You can follow the link at the end of the article.

The design of a 3-float jet ski is simple; the floats are also made independently from polystyrene foam, plywood root ribs and power fastening elements. Conventional cross beams were used cross-country skiing. They are quite durable and absorb the load well. However, if desired, they can be replaced with seamless steel or duralumin pipes.

Another design that is more familiar in appearance, this homemade jet ski is assembled on the basis of classical technology: it is a frame-stringer frame, covered with 3 mm thick plywood and then covered with fiberglass.

A few words about the control system. Lever-cable type control is used, the same as that included in the kit for remote control outboard engine on boats, the only difference in controlling a homemade jet ski is that a motorcycle steering wheel is used, and instead of a gas lever there is a motorcycle rotating handle.

The dimensions and weight of a homemade jet ski allow it to be transported on a rack located on the roof of any car. This means that there is no need to purchase an additional trailer to transport a homemade jet ski from the storage location to the reservoir.

Download drawings of a homemade jet ski you can at the bottom of the article.

The third type of homemade jet ski allows you to use it as small boat fishing or swimming and for traveling around the water area. The wide body of a self-built jet ski does not allow it to tip over even when an adult climbs on it from the side. This same excessive stability allows you not to worry about boats passing nearby and motor boats, the waves diverging from them will not be able to overturn your homemade jet ski.

Despite the rather wide hull, the built jet ski is very playful; with one person it can go on plane even with an eight-horsepower engine! And after installing a more powerful Whirlwind, this homemade jet ski easily went out into the air with two passengers and dragged a water skier along with it.

The only disadvantage of this design of the jet ski is that a trailer is required to tow it. But loading and unloading the jet ski can be done with just two people.

In general, it’s up to you to decide which one to build a gyrocycle with your own hands. Maybe, based on ready-made jet ski drawings, you will decide to build a self-designed jet ski and share your information with us.

Download jet ski drawings Can

For active recreation Great for jet skis different types. Modern models are quite expensive. How to make a jet ski with your own hands? First of all, you should familiarize yourself with the structure of the model.

Simple jet ski

The usual model includes a body, frame, stops, motor and stringer. Many jet skis use a transom. It is fixed on brackets. The filler is quite often used from foam plastic. Decks on models can be of different lengths. If we consider the upper stringer, it is installed with a fairing. You also need to remember that the bottom of the models is covered with a protective layer. The keel part of jet skis is distinguished by wide stops. There is a hole on the housing for the steering shaft. In case of breakdowns, you can repair the jet ski yourself using a small set of tools.

Boat type jet ski

You can assemble a boat jet ski with your own hands. For this purpose, first of all, it is prepared bottom part housings. You can cut the bow rails yourself. While working on the stringer, you will need a grinder. A grinding machine is used to sharpen the surface of the bottom. Particular attention at this stage is paid to the keel part. You can make a pontoon for a jet ski with your own hands from bars. Upper part the housing is fixed with brackets. The hole for the steering column can be made using a jigsaw. Ultimately, all that remains is to install the motor.

Double float model

You can assemble a two-float jet ski with your own hands (photo shown below) only on the basis of a wide stringer. In this case, the deck must be fixed on racks. At the beginning of work, the frame itself is prepared. The upper stringer can be fixed on brackets. Experts recommend using polystyrene foam as a filler. The lower stringer must have rivets. It is allowed to use profile D16 for the hook.

Three-float model

A three-float jet ski is made with your own hands with bow rails. For many models, the end wall is attached first. After this, you can fix the lower stringer. In this case, trapezoids are selected to have a small width. The top stringer is installed last. You can make a trailer for a jet ski yourself from metal sheets thickness from 1.5 mm. The nose fairing should be selected with a small thickness. The pads are most often made of foam. It should also be noted that during work you should pay attention to the steering column. The hole for the shaft can be made using a jigsaw.

Device with one transom stop

It’s very easy to make a jet ski with one stop with your own hands. For this purpose, a long stringer with a small profile is selected. The bow rail is attached first. It is more expedient to make the pads from foam plastic. It should also be noted that experts advise not to install the upper stringer right away. At the beginning of work, the deck is fixed. Overlays may be glued to a small width. The keel part of the jet ski must be well protected.

For this purpose, experts use fiberglass. In this case, the filler is usually made of polystyrene foam. Plywood directly for the body can be used from the C5 series. The bottom is most often processed grinder. Stripes should be installed at the top of the stringer. Transom stops are fixed in the keel part. In case of malfunctions, you can repair the jet ski engine yourself by removing the rear struts.

Model with multiple transom stops

To make a jet ski with several stops with your own hands, you will need a wide stand. First of all, the lower part of the stringer is prepared. At this stage, the surface of the material is processed with a grinding machine. Many experts recommend using foam filler. Overlays are fixed at the back of the stringer. The side stringer is mounted on brackets. It is also worth noting that the jet ski will require a frame. The keel beam can be safely taken from the D16 series. During deck installation special attention need to be given to the casing. At the end of the work, a hole is made for the steering column.

Jet ski with straight linings

Making a model with straight overlays is quite simple. For this purpose, a stringer is used with a low profile. In order to assemble a jet ski, the deck of the model is first prepared. Next you will need to install the bottom stringer. Experts do not recommend using a cheap sealant. The bow rail is mounted on a bracket. The bottom of the jet ski should be thoroughly cleaned with a sanding machine. The linings are installed directly on the side of the stringer. The hole for the steering column can be made at the end of the robot.

Model with oblique overlays

It is possible to make a jet ski with oblique linings only with long stringers. You should start assembling the model by calculating the length of the racks. If you select small stops, then trapezoids can be used with a low profile. Before installing the lower stringer, the bottom of the jet ski is completely sealed. In this case, you can immediately make a hole for the shaft to control the model. Decks in this case are installed on racks. The sheathing is most often attached with glue. It is recommended to fix the upper stringer on strips. At the end of the work, all that remains is to secure the transom. Repairing a jet ski hull with your own hands is quite difficult.

Model with fiberglass bonding

It is very easy to make a jet ski with fiberglass glued together. Stringers can be used in different lengths. At the beginning of the work, a board is prepared for the deck. It is recommended to sand the bottom well. Experts say that it is more advisable to use the upper stringer with a small profile. The end wall must be fixed at the base of the frame. Plywood for these purposes is suitable with the C5 marking. The covers on the jet ski are made of foam. Experts advise thoroughly cleaning the edges of the stringers. It is additionally important to carry out work on installing the steering column. For this purpose, the hole for the shaft is extended in the deck.

Double fairing device

If necessary, you can make a model with a double fairing yourself. Assembling the device should begin as standard with the blanks of the racks and the future bottom of the model. The lower stringer can be fixed on brackets. The upper overlays are glued along the side. Many experts recommend using C5 series plywood for jet skis. It is also worth noting that the cutout for the shaft can be made at the end of the robot. Pasting should be done very carefully. In this case, it is important not to damage the integrity of the stringer. Jet ski transom of this type suitable with lining. It is also worth noting that the aft part can be made with a seal.

Model with long stringer

Devices with a long stringer can be made on the basis of a wide frame. For this purpose, not only a stringer is prepared, but also a board under the deck. Plywood for the stand is selected separately. The lower stringer is fixed on a bracket. The fairing must be glued strictly horizontally. It is also worth noting that experts advise using large rivets. The hole for the shaft is made using a jigsaw. To cut out the top stringer you will need a grinder. Transom boards can be made from ordinary plywood. To install the tie rod, you will need several holders.

Short stringer device

You can make a model with a short stringer yourself. Transoms are suitable for her different profiles. It is recommended to start assembling the modification by preparing the supports. The transom will require a small stand. Plywood can be used in the C5 series. Experts say that the filler can be taken from foam plastic. Glue is used to install the overlays. The keel part of the jet ski must be thoroughly cleaned. The upper stringer is installed on the model using brackets. It is important to thoroughly polish the bottom of the jet ski.

Device with longitudinal steps

It is very difficult to make a model with longitudinal steps. The main problem in this case lies in the selection of the stringer. For jet ski the part will fit only with a high profile. If necessary, you can make the stands yourself using a grinder. It is more advisable to use plywood from the C5 series. Experts say that the bow handrail should be done at the end of the work.

The keel part should be located behind the steps. The upper stringer is fixed on brackets. The end wall must have overlays. It is recommended to use polystyrene foam as a filler. It is also worth noting that experts recommend using wide transom mounts. All this is necessary in order to remove the load from the keel of the jet ski. This will significantly increase the strength of the frame.

DIY boat

A jet ski is a very good summer entertainment; you can use it to rush around a pond, take girls for rides, and have fun. Of course, a homemade jet ski is not, it does not have such capacity, but, on the other hand, it is more preferable for entertainment on the surface of the water.

Another thing is a homemade jet ski!

Having made a homemade jet ski, you can go on a wide variety of tours on it. And what? Quite a summer trip!
When making a jet ski with your own hands, you can use a more economical option and equip your homemade jet ski with a regular boat motor. This approach will allow you to use a jet ski both for high-speed “breezy” trips, water skiing, and for long-distance water travel. It is enough just to change the propellers, selecting them for the optimal speed of a given operating mode of the outboard motor.

The simplest type of homemade jet ski is to use a double-float catamaran system. In fact, you only need to install the seat, steering wheel, engine speed control lever and control cable transmission.

Another interesting homemade jet ski project is a DIY 3-float jet ski project.

You can follow the link at the end of the article.

The design of a 3-float jet ski is simple; the floats are also made independently from polystyrene foam, plywood root ribs and power fastening elements. Ordinary cross-country skis were used as cross beams. They are quite durable and absorb the load well. However, if desired, they can be replaced with seamless steel or duralumin pipes.

A few words about the control system. A lever-cable type control is used, the same as that included in the kit for remote control of an outboard engine on boats; the only difference in controlling a homemade jet ski is that a motorcycle steering wheel is used, and instead of a gas lever there is a motorcycle rotating handle.

Download drawings of a homemade jet ski you can at the bottom of the article.

The third type of homemade jet ski allows you to use it as a small fishing or swimming boat and for traveling around the water area. The wide body of a self-built jet ski does not allow it to tip over even when an adult climbs on it from the side. This same excessive stability allows you not to worry about boats and motor boats passing nearby; the waves diverging from them will not be able to capsize your homemade jet ski.

The only disadvantage of this design of the jet ski is that a trailer is required to tow it. But loading and unloading the jet ski can be done with just two people.

Download jet ski drawings Can

Alexander and Ivan Lipatnikov from the village of Vishkil, Kotelnichsky district, worked on the device called “LANI” for about a month. Recently, a jet ski was tested on the Vyatka River.

The name "LANI" is an abbreviation made up of the names of brothers and father: Lipatnikov Alexander, Nikolai, Ivan

Everything is fine. “It runs fast,” 25-year-old Ivan noted, smiling, immediately after the run-in. - True, a lot depends on what kind of engine it is. We set it to 9.8 horsepower, it pulls well. We're thinking of trying for 30.

According to the brothers, they dreamed of their own jet ski for a long time, but could not afford it. It’s no joke, in the store such a unit costs two hundred thousand and more. In a word, they took it and assembled it themselves.

The homemade jet ski is made almost entirely from plywood. Plus, fiberglass was used inside and, of course, spare parts that were found in the garage.

It must be said that making equipment with your own hands is nothing new for the brothers. Often their father helps them with this. The craftsmen have already built seven amphibians (hovercraft) with their own hands, six of which roam the expanses of different Russian regions: Arkhangelsk, Vladimir, Krasnoyarsk, Murmansk and other regions.

By the way, according to the eldest of the brothers, 33-year-old Alexander, their jet ski is in no way inferior to its factory counterparts, and in some respects it is superior.

There’s more adrenaline here,” the interlocutor shared. - An ordinary jet ski has good speed, you can make sharp turns on it, but it won’t be able to stand up like a candle, it won’t be able to rear, but ours can do it easily, since it’s more maneuverable.

In addition, the Lipatnikovs said, their device is significantly lighter: not 200 kilograms, like store-bought ones, but only 60. If others need a trailer, they put this one in the car trunk and went where they needed it.

The masters admitted that they have big plans: to build an impressive boat with a cabin for six people, so that they can travel along the river without fear of bad weather.

Attention! The video contains obscene language.