Hi all! This summer I went on a 5-week trek in the Alps with some friends. The time spent left a lot of positive impressions. But during this trip I discovered that I had forgotten one very important tool - an axe. After a long day in the mountains, it's nice to sit by the fire and drink beer. But in order to start a fire without an ax, we had to spend a lot of time looking for small branches that could be broken by hand.

Therefore, as soon as I arrived home, I had the idea to make a tourist hatchet, in which, like a knife, a saw is hidden and there is a beer opener.

In this master class I will tell you how you can make such an ax yourself.

Ax design

The design of this ax consists of three parts.

Ax blade

The shape of the blade was borrowed from the tomahawk, an ax used by Native Americans and European colonists. But you can change its shape by adding some spikes or a hammer on the butt. The ax blade will be glued to the handle and secured with rivets.

opener

First, as an opener, I wanted to make a suitable hole in the blade. As a result of test drilling, it was found that a regular drill It's impossible to make a hole, so I changed the type of opener. Both options can be seen in the image. The new type will be made in the form of a specially shaped hook.

Saw

I wanted the ax to come with a saw and thought it would be nice if it could be hidden like a jackknife. From the handle and it can be unfolded using the finger groove. The saw will be hidden between two pads. The shape of the metal part of the handle will allow the saw to be locked in both open and folded positions.

Once the design was chosen, I tried it on a circular saw blade to get the dimensions to fit.

Materials and tools

This ax is made from a used circular saw and hardwood that I had. I only had to purchase a folding saw blade. It was already hardened, so it did not need heat treatment.

Materials:

• Old circular saw blade.
• Hardwood timber (approximately 50 x 40 x 300 mm).
• Epoxy resin.
• Large nails for use as rivets.
• Folding saw blade (I used 200mm).
• Bolt, nut and washer.

Tools:

• Angle grinder (don't forget about safety equipment!).
• Rasp.
• File.
• Sandpaper.
• Drill.

Let's make sparks!

I transferred the outline of the ax and the metal part of the handle onto circular saw and cut them out using an angle grinder with a thin cutting wheel. Then, using a grinding wheel, angular grinding machine and files I completed the formation of the elements. The final shape of the metal part of the handle can be given later.

Making the handle

You can glue the template to wooden blank and cut out two overlays. I took advantage of mine milling machine with CNC.

Drilling hardened steel

I didn't have a carbide metal drill, so I wasn't sure how the process would work with a hardened axe. I came across a video where it was said that you can use a sharpened concrete drill bit to drill hardened metal. That's what I did, and everything worked out pretty well.

Adding an opener

This is probably the most irreplaceable part of the ax! Whenever I go camping, my friends and I usually have a couple of beers around the campfire in the evening. Opening them with stones and tree branches is very inconvenient. So I thought this detail would come in handy. I transferred the outline of a regular bottle opener onto the ax blade and cut a recess into it. Works great :)

Drilling the handle

Next, I drilled holes in the handle and checked that everything fit. The metal part of the handle should act as a spring that will fix the saw blade. If it is too elastic, it can be made thinner. First I used the metal part of the handle as a template to make the holes. Then I fastened the two pads together with clamps and then drilled them out. through hole. This way all the corresponding holes were in one line.

To connect the parts of the ax without gluing, I used bolts. This way you can check whether all the parts of the ax fit and whether the saw folds correctly.

Blade sharpening

After the outline of the blade was drawn out, I used an angle grinder with grinding disc for rough processing. Then for more fine workmanship they used a file and grinding machine(use water to cool the blade). The final sharpening was done using the sharpening wheel of a sharpening machine.

I'm not an expert at sharpening an ax blade, so you can do this another way.

The ax will primarily be used to split wood into smaller pieces, so I did a little testing of its functionality.

Gluing and riveting

It's no secret that an ax is an indispensable carpentry tool. In addition, the ax is especially useful in the household: from chopping wood to home repairs.

This article examines issues related to the manufacture of a taiga-type axe, because finding such useful tool It’s quite difficult on the market, and it will cost a lot. The article provides additional useful information, which will tell you which ax is best to choose for certain needs.

What should a taiga ax be like?

Such an ax, thanks to its special parameters, which are radically different from the characteristics and sizes of “classical” axes, is an indispensable assistant when performing many tasks, such as:

• Tree cutting. Whether it's carpentry or simple blank firewood for the winter - taiga ax will help you complete the task quickly and efficiently;
• Rough processing of logs – removal of branches, other similar work;
• A tool as a way of “survival” - any catalog of axes will confirm the statement that the taiga ax is ideal for hunting, preparing bags and traps;
• Creation of a hut and flooring, construction wooden house as soon as possible;
• Preparation of firewood.

In cases where the work requires special precision, the most the best option What remains is a forged ax with a long blade. Cutting down trees with such an ax is not very effective, but accuracy plays an important role.

Distinctive features of the taiga type ax

Most people do not see the difference between a taiga and an ordinary ax at all. So what are the differences between these two types of axes?

• The roundness of the blade means that the taiga ax is lighter in weight;
• A long beard provides additional protection against deformation and breaking. Typically absorbs up to 60% of impact force;
• Special sharpening - allows you to use the ax as a standard cleaver, when choosing the right blow. In this case, the leading edge of the blade is twice as wide as the rear. The edge of a regular ax has the same thickness;
• A special angle of inclination of the ax reduces hand fatigue and increases the overall efficiency during work.

Making a taiga ax head

It is worth purchasing an ordinary carpenter's ax, the head of which will weigh 1400-1500 grams.

From the front we cut off the protrusion of the blade flush with the butt. We form the roundness of the back of the blade - the grinder will help us with this. It is necessary to cut off all the metal so that there are no corners left.

Let's move on to the inside of the blade - carefully cut out a semicircle, which is necessary for a more comfortable grip. In addition, this manipulation can significantly reduce the weight of the head. To further reduce the weight and increase the maneuverability of the ax, it is necessary to saw off the upper corners of the butt.

Sharpening is done using an emery machine. For best result is installed big circle with medium grain. In addition, sharpening should be done on both sides.

Making an ax handle for a taiga ax

It is worth noting that choosing the right wood is the key to success in making a high-quality taiga ax. Ideal options would be maple and ash. Simpler options are birch and pine. The latter is perfectly polished and sharpened, but is extremely unreliable due to its fragility.

Below are the instructions:

Selection of lumps - without knots or defects. Processing and drying - the tree is cleared of bark and split in the middle. Wood should be dried at +25°, with a humidity level of 15%. Aging lasts two months.

Creating a mold - we will need a hatchet or a large knife to remove the main wood. In addition, do not forget about a chisel and a small hammer - these tools will be needed for smaller jobs.

How to mount an ax? You should use gauze and epoxy resin. After three days, the taiga ax will be ready for use.

The last step is sanding and varnishing. The ax will become not only useful, but also beautiful, like in the photo from the advertising catalogue!

Photos of do-it-yourself axes

The ax is one of the most famous and available tools in the arsenal of most summer residents and professional craftsmen. If you use it correctly, you can simplify many work processes, resulting in excellent results. You can not only buy an ax ready-made in specialty store, but also to do at home. This will not take much time, effort and cash. Today we will look in detail at how to properly make an ax handle with your own hands.

How to select and prepare wood?

Many jobs are impossible without a well-sharpened and strong axe. This tool is often needed in both household and larger-scale work. In retail outlets you can find many different models there are quite a lot of such tools, because there are quite a lot of types of axes themselves. Pick up ideal option possible to suit any requirement.

But there are also cases when the consumer could not find a suitable tool for himself. Many people in such situations find a simple way out - they make an ax themselves. For a tool to be of high quality, reliable and durable, it must consist of good elements. So, to create an ax handle, it is very important to choose the right suitable material.

Not every type of wood is suitable for creating this ax part. It is believed that a true master will go around the entire forest before he finds the very tree from which he can make an ax handle. In most cases, this element of the ax is constructed from the root section of a birch tree, and even better, if you use the growths that are present on its trunk. These parts are distinguished by a very dense and curled structure.

Birch is not the only tree that can make a good ax handle. Instead, it is permissible to refer to trees such as oak, maple, acacia, ash and other deciduous trees that are classified as hardwoods. According to experienced craftsmen, beech, oak, larch, walnut and elm make the most reliable, comfortable and durable handles high quality. But it’s not enough to find the ideal material for making an axe. It is still necessary to properly prepare it for the upcoming work.

The workpieces must be thoroughly dried. This is done only under natural conditions, and it often takes a lot of time - on average 3-4 years, and better yet longer (5 years will be enough). Wood should be dried exclusively in a dark and dry place with good ventilation. To the space where it will be prepared natural material, precipitation, dampness and water should not penetrate. Otherwise, there will simply be no sense in such drying, and good ax it won't work.

How to make a template?

If you have the material already prepared and dried to the required degree, then you should move on to the next stage of creating an ax handle. Next, you will need to competently make a convenient template, which will be an excellent assistant in further work.

Here it is important to take into account the fact that there are quite strict standards regulating the shape of the ax based on the main type of device. Thus, light tools, the weight of which usually ranges from 0.8 to 1 kg, are usually made with a handle having a length of 0.4-0.6 m. As for the more “serious” heavy axes, there is a length of 0.55-0.65 m. We must also take into account the fact that everything existing species axes are divided according to their main functionality.

So, the following types of these tools are distinguished:

• carpentry;
• lumberjack;
• knotty;
• cleaver;
• butcher's

Before you start independent design such a tool, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with detailed drawings of different models of handles.

When making a template, a number of important features should be taken into account.

• So that during the work the ax handle does not slip out and does not jump out of the hands at the moment of swing, its “tail” must be made a little wider than the gripping point.
• When making an ax for a cleaver, you need to make a part 0.75-0.95 m long. Carpentry tools are made short. Their handle generally reaches 0.5 m.
• Another 8-10 cm should be added to the handle length parameter for the butt for allowance. It will be possible to cut it off after installing the butt. It is very important to ensure that the tree does not begin to split at this moment.

Template with it correct form and all sizes will need to be applied to paper or cardboard.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

It is not difficult to prepare an ax handle with your own hands. To do this, you need to adhere to a not very complex technology for carrying out work. Let's get acquainted with it:

• mark the workpiece using a template;
• after this it can be carefully cut out with a jigsaw or other similar tool;
• Next, the prepared part will need to be turned to special machine and grinding.

There are a number important rules, which must be adhered to as work progresses.

• Processing the fixing area of ​​the ax must be done as carefully and carefully as possible, so as not to accidentally remove excess part of the wood. Otherwise, the butt simply will not be able to be firmly fixed in place. It is better to periodically try the handle against the eye, so that in the end you get a small margin (no more than 2 cm).
• You should not use a file while finishing the part. This will lead to inevitable loosening of the wood. Because of this, it will be more difficult to work with him further. It is better to use fine abrasive sandpaper and a grinder rather than a file. You will need to move the tool along the wood fibers.
• It is necessary to give the final, correct and beautiful shape to the fastening area of ​​the handle, taking into account the angle of the butt attachment. As for the cleaver, the specified angle for it should be approximately 85 degrees. For a standard ax – 75 degrees.

At self-production the ax must be used very carefully. There's no need to rush. If desired, you can decorate the handle of the tool with patterns and carved decorations (for example, you can wrap it with jute cord - it will hold the blade more securely). When the ax handle is ready, you will need to correctly install the cutting part on it.

Let's look at how to do this.

• Adjust the top of the piece to the eye of the blade. Remove the excess wood with a knife. Be careful.
• On the handle, set horizontally, the cutting part should be placed on top. Then you need to make a mark on the handle with a pencil until it will be driven in. Divide the segment and make another mark.
• Secure the handle in a vertical position using a vice. The wide part should be at the top. Prepare a hacksaw for metal. Make a cut exactly to the second wedge mark.

• In specialized point of sale choose a metal wedge or make it yourself from wood.
• Place the board on a separate tabletop. Point the blade at it. Place it upside down. Place the prepared ax handle over this part, tapping it on the board. Now turn the tool over and tap the handle on the board. The part will continue to be seated. These steps should be repeated many times. As a result, you will be able to thoroughly drive the ax handle into the eye.
• Then place the part in a vertical position. Install a wedge into the cut. Hammer it in with a mallet. Saw off any excess protruding parts

How to protect against rotting?

The wood from which the ax handle is made, like other similar materials, is susceptible to rotting. Such problems always arise over time or in inappropriate storage conditions for the instrument. It is important to take care of your homemade ax in advance, protecting it from rotting. It is strongly not recommended to use compositions such as varnishes or paints to protect wooden handles. The ban on the use of such compounds is due to the fact that their presence on the handle can lead to it slipping out of the hands during certain work. The reason for this is the glossy smooth texture.

The optimal solution other suitable impregnations will be available to protect the ax from rotting. Can cover the handle linseed oil or good old drying oil. There are other highly effective antiseptics that will extend the service life natural wood. But we must take into account that they will need to be applied periodically. Don't forget this procedure.

Some masters add to antiseptic protective equipment red pigment. People turn to such tricks not at all to make the instrument more interesting. appearance. After this coating, the ax will be much easier to find in the grass, because its color will become brighter.

Please note that the ax handle should be made so that its cross-section has a characteristic oval shape. Only by observing this condition, you can successfully hold it without straining your hand too much. In this case, blows with an ax will be more accurate and easier. Wood products To create an ax handle, it is recommended to do it in late autumn. It is during this period that the movement of sap is reduced to a minimum (almost stops), which means that the tree becomes, as it were, dehydrated.

Many inexperienced craftsmen neglect drying wood to build an axe. As a result, this ends up with the handle changing in size, and metal part with the butt it stays on very poorly. It is permissible to use undried material only in special situations, when the handle needs to be built urgently, and this spare part is made as a temporary one.

When making a brand new ax handle yourself, you need to draw up a detailed drawing/template of the future tool. If you have a very convenient old ax in your arsenal, then you can remove all parameters from it. This will make it much easier and more convenient. Do not rush to turn the cutting edge of the tool. First you need to make sure the metal is sufficiently hard. If it turns out to be too soft, then it will need to be additionally hardened under the influence of high temperatures.

It is permissible to begin sharpening the ax blade only after installing it on the ax handle.

It is very important to use a ready-made ax (both homemade and store-bought) correctly. Experienced craftsmen It is strongly recommended not to try to cut various metal parts with such a device. Even if you plan to cut wood, it is better to make sure that there are no solid particles inside that could harm the tool.

It is strongly recommended not to throw the finished tool onto hard surfaces, especially from a great height. It is not recommended to leave the ax under open air. Precipitation or aggressive sunlight can negatively affect the quality wooden part. Keep this tool in a dark and dry place. Only under this condition will the ax serve you for many years.

Axe- a chopping tool, consisting of a wooden handle, usually short, and a blade, which is located longitudinally or perpendicular to the shaft. The latter are called tesla. They cut out grooves during the construction of huts and ships, princely mansions and churches, hollowed out troughs, boats, cut sculptures, toys and other wooden products.

The secret of the durability of products chopped with an ax is that the fibers of the tree are crushed under the blow of an ax and do not allow moisture to pass through. This does not happen when sawing, when the pores of the wood are left open for rot to enter.

What types of axes are there and what are they used for?

The etymological dictionary gives several versions of the origin of the word, ranging from Bulgarian “axe”, Slovenian “topor”, Czech, Polish, etc. Connoisseurs consider ax Orthodox word and is associated with “to trample”, otherwise “to beat”, when talking about the heart, from the Ukrainian “tepority” - drag with difficulty, Bulgarian “tapty” - I interfere, I trample.

The wooden handle is called an ax handle, metal part, having a blunt rounded end on one side - a butt. Not the best option would be to choose a stick with round. It is much more convenient if the cross-section is oval and the ax handle consists of straight and curved sections. Its tail bends down for easy grip.

On the other side there is a blade with a sharpened working blade. Sometimes products have a beard-protrusion on the blade next to the mount, which protects the ax handle from impacts on the metal and strengthens the fastening of the wood with the metal part of the product. It is believed that such axes are descendants of battle axes from Northern Europe. Most often, carpentry tools have beards; they are indispensable when working with wood.

Axes were used as cold combat weapons, cutting and throwing.

Depending on the application, axes are:

Another variety is double-sided. The blades can have different sharpenings and are designed to perform a wide range of work. They can be used as throwing weapons as they are well balanced. Products are made from high carbon steel. The other side of the coin is their risk of injury, high price, uncomfortable handle, and lack of impact function.

Manufacturing

Making blades from high-carbon steels protects axes from mechanical damage and allows them to withstand temperature changes. The blade does not require periodic sharpening; during operation it is not damaged by the appearance of nicks and scratches. A stamp is placed on the head indicating the grade of metal. Forged products are more durable and heavier; preference should be given to this type of metal processing.

According to the width of the cutting part, the tools are:

1. wide;
2. average;
3. narrow.

If the blade of a metal blade is sharpened at an angle of less than forty degrees, the tool penetrates deeper into the wood, but also quickly becomes dull. Combined sharpening allows you to save the blade from damage if the blow falls on the edge of the metal; with this method, the central part is sharpened at a sharper angle than the edges.

Blades can be straight or rounded. The latter, due to the reduction in area and increased pressure on the points of contact, acquire better cutting qualities.

Axes with a plastic shaft are as strong as wooden ones, but lighter. Sometimes wooden axes are made with a rubberized handle to absorb shock and protect the wrist.

Choosing the right tool

1. the optimal length of the ax is from the wrist to the shoulder joint;
2. the ax handle must be completely covered by the hand to avoid injury.

If you choose a short handle, you will have to make too large an amplitude of movement in order to increase the force of the blow, and the recoil to the hand will also increase. This will prevent long and productive work with the tool.

If it is expected permanent job with a tool, you should give preference to an expensive one quality product. If work happens occasionally, buy more cheap option. A product from one manufacturer may have large price differences depending on its sale on the market or in a large store.

Features of the design of taiga axes

Taiga axes are truly universal. The tools are capable of felling trees, butchering animal carcasses, chopping wood for a fire, processing and splitting logs along the grain, and building huts. They are highly durable and last for many years. They are used by rangers, commercial hunters, geologists, foresters and tourists.

The taiga tool differs from the carpenter's ax in the length of its handle. As a rule, it is longer than 50 centimeters and allows you to make a wide swing to increase the impact force when chopping. The head blade does not have an upper part. If necessary, you can independently change or adjust the blade of an existing ax. Cutting the upper toe reduces the weight of the tool, strengthens the upper part of the head when working at low temperatures, it is more convenient to work with such an ax. The blade shape is rounded to allow for various forestry tasks. The head has a beard for strength.

In the eye, or seat, to strengthen the fastener, a wedge or steel nail is inserted. The fungus - a place on the handle - should not allow the hand to slip. The ax head can easily replace a hammer if necessary.

When choosing a taiga instrument, three rules must be followed. The tool must be selected individually according to the man’s height, taking into account frequent use, the main weight should fall on the metal head, the optimal weight of the tool is selected from the point of view of carrying the product and performing the impact function.

DIY taiga masterpiece

Let's make a taiga ax from an old one with our own hands. For manufacturing, you will need a metal head from another product. It is cleaned of rust. If the damage is deeply ingrained into nicks and cracks, the metal is soaked for a day in a vinegar bath, then cleaned with sandpaper.

The next step is to adjust the tool head to fit the taiga specimen using a grinder.

For the ax handle, choose a tree with hard wood. Beech is best suited for this role. To prevent dampness, the handle on which the head is mounted is soaked in oil in several stages. It is recommended to use drying oil, wax, boiling oil, or linseed oil.

But it should be dried in ultraviolet rays in order to start the process of hemolytic cleavage, during which some bonds in the substance break down and stronger ones are formed. The process ends when the product becomes dry, rough to the touch and leaves no marks on your hands.

The product receives additional strength and water resistance. The wood fibers should run along the handle; manufacturers sometimes mess around and paint over the product if the grains are located at an angle. The strength of the ax handle in such a product is reduced.

The metal part is placed on the butt of the handle so that the ax extends one and a half centimeters above the head. Having achieved a tight fit, the head is removed and several cuts are made in the butt, not reaching the seating depth by 5 millimeters: one longitudinal cut and two transverse ones.

To prevent the ax handle from cracking, the cuts are drilled out. Now wedges are prepared from the same material - five wedges will be required - and the structure is reassembled.

For strength, they are held together with epoxy resin, reinforced with bandages to enhance the tightness of the fit. Beech wedges are driven in, securely securing the seat. All excess is cut off and the product is carefully polished. Over time, the epoxy becomes unusable; to remove it, axes are burned in a fire. In this case, you can use wood glue.

The final touch is sharpening the blade.

To avoid accidental injuries, you can sew a protective cover onto the metal part.

Correct sharpening of the tool

The product can be sharpened manually and mechanically. Each has its own secrets that you need to know in order to avoid dulling the blade and breaking the “sharpener”.

At manual When sharpening, a template is prepared from tin, the sharpening angle is selected, and it is cut out required form and applied to the ax blade. A sharpening line is marked on the blade of the head with a marker. The action is performed by moving away from oneself; the process is labor-intensive and exhausting. Performed in several steps using grinding wheels made of sandstone with grains of different sizes.

At mechanical When sharpening an ax, experts do not recommend rushing; they do not recommend working with a grinder; you should choose a low processing speed. For the desired sharpening angle, finishing paste is used, the grinding wheel is coated with it and the product is ground.

After sharpening, the tool blade is protected against rust with lithol, grease, machine or waste oil. It is best to keep the instrument in a dry place.

Compliance with safety regulations

1. do not leave the ax on the ground so that the tool does not rust and the ax handle does not become damp;
2. the head of the product should not dangle on the handle;
3. when cutting logs, place wood underneath so as not to damage the blade on stone or metal;
4. Make sure you have enough space to swing the ax freely.

If you live or work in the taiga, then you must be equipped the right tools. Mandatory equipment includes not only a saw, but also an axe. Many people make the mistake of choosing this tool and think that they can handle carpentry. Today we’ll look at what an ideal taiga ax looks like and whether it’s possible to make it yourself.

Peculiarities

Not only in the taiga you need a high-quality ax. All lovers of regular and long hikes will love this attribute. This tool is needed not only for preparing kebabs. There is a list of things that cannot do without this attribute. Namely:

• cutting down trees;
• processing of fallen logs;
• production of bags and self-catchers;
• building a hut;
• splitting a log along the grain.

Looking at this entire list, we can safely say that the work is mostly rough and requires strong and durable equipment. The taiga ax is mainly used:

• commercial hunters;
• huntsmen;
• foresters;
• tourists;
• geologists and any other person who is going to the taiga.

Components

It is necessary to consider what basic elements the ax consists of:

1. An ax handle is different from a carpenter's tool. The taiga ax is much longer. It makes it easy to swing and hit a tree. The optimal length of the ax is approximately 50 cm, and in some cases more. It should not be heavy, otherwise it is impossible to achieve success in the taiga.
2. Head. This part is also different from a carpenter's tool. Missing from the head upper part blades. If you urgently need to turn an ordinary ax into a taiga one, you can adjust it yourself.
3. Blade. For efficient work it is specially rounded. This blade is widely used in the taiga.
4. Beard. This part fixes the ax handle and the head together.
5. Butt. In the taiga, it happens that you need not only an ax, but also a hammer. This part will easily replace it. Convenient, no need to carry a hammer with you, this is especially preferred by tourists.
6. Eye. This part allows you to put the head on the ax handle. To ensure the reliability of the entire structure, be sure to drive a wooden wedge or an ordinary thick nail into the eyelets. This will prevent the head from coming off.
7. Fungus. This part is intended solely for safe use. It secures your hands in a comfortable position and does not slip.

Below is a taiga ax. The drawing will show where and how each part is located.

Characteristics

The taiga ax is a tool that will help you with everything. There are conditions that must be met:

• lightness (frequency of use may affect fatigue);
• the handle must be ergonomic (an ax for every man should be like an individual suit - only in size);
• the main weight should be in the metal head.

For those who like to do things with their own hands, we suggest taking advantage of our next master class.

Independent production

We suggest supplementing your camping kit with a tool such as a taiga ax. With our own hands we will make a real masterpiece from the blank. Before starting work, we will prepare everything you need. This includes:

• carpenter's ax head;
• wooden butt;
• Bulgarian;
• metal wedges.

We present a step-by-step lesson:

1. Using a grinder you need to shape the ax. It should look like a taiga specimen. If there is rust, it must be removed. To do this we use a petal disk.
2. If corrosion has damaged the metal from the inside, then soak the head in vinegar for a day. We clean off the remains with a brush.
3. We are preparing the ax handle. In our case, we suggest taking what is considered strong and solid.
4. Fasten the head and butt together with epoxy resin. Additionally reinforced with a bandage, drive in beech wedges.
5. Cut off all excess and be sure to sand it.
6. Sharpen your axe.

Since the butt is primarily a tree that is susceptible to dampness, it is worth treating it. Impregnate with special oil in several layers. Additionally, the product will receive strength and water resistance.

You can also make your own protective case for the ax. It will protect you from unwanted injuries.

Sharpening rules

To avoid injury, the ax must be sharp. Sharpening can be done manually or mechanically. Let's look at each method separately and look at the basic rules for sharpening a tool.

Manual method

This method will require a lot of free time, since the matter is quite troublesome. If you approach it with special trepidation, then before sharpening you need to make a special template. To do this you need:

• find a piece of tin;
• choose the optimal and correct sharpening angle;
• make a cutout.

When the template is ready, move on to the main action:

• apply the template to the ax blade;
• see if there is a deviation angle;
• make marks using a marker;
• processing.

If you choose manual method sharpening, it is better to do it with a medium-grained stone. The final touch can be done in the smallest way. The timber also has its own nuances:

• round shape is preferred;
• material - fine sandstone.

Professionals advise sharpening with the blade facing away from you. It is also noted that if amateurs get down to business, the blade becomes dull, and in some cases the “sharpeners” break.

Mechanical method

If you have it on hand, you can use it. To carry out the procedure, you will need the following:

• the device itself;
• ax with blade;
• sharpening stone with two working surfaces;
• finishing paste;
• marker;
• goniometer;
• personal protective equipment for eyes and hands.

The procedure is carried out as follows:

1. The machine must be placed on a flat and hard surface.
2. The working surface must be free of defects.
3. If you need to update the sharpening at the existing angle, mark desired area marker.
4. Sharpen with the blade facing away from you.
5. If the angle is suitable, fix the result using finishing paste. Lubricate the grinding wheel with it and polish the ax.
6. Be sure to apply a product that protects against corrosion.

Sharpening tips from professionals

1. If you sharpen an ax mechanically, then you need to do this at low speeds.
2. Do not sharpen with a grinder.
3. There is no need to rush when sharpening.
4. To prevent the ax from becoming dull for a long time, store it in a protective case.
5. Never sharpen an ax without personal protective equipment.
6. If you doubt your abilities, it is better to turn to professionals.

Safety precautions at work

An ax is a rather dangerous thing. To prevent your hike from turning into a sad journey, remember the following operating instructions:

1. The head should not dangle on the ax handle.
2. When cutting, place wood under the wood.
3. Do not throw the taiga ax on the ground.
4. Do not attempt to cut stone or metal with this tool.
5. When working, you need to take positions that are comfortable for you. There should be a lot of free space around.

Purchase

If you like constant hiking or hunt, then you need equipment such as a taiga ax. The vacha is the most common model among this family of instruments. Use it to quickly and easily chop and process wood.

If you want to purchase a forged taiga ax, make sure that the kit includes a protective case. Distinctive feature This brand of tools is considered to be the handle. It is made from strong varieties of birch. The wood is impregnated and processed.

We looked at how to make a taiga one. If you don’t have the opportunity to make it yourself, you can always find the product in the store.