Stirling engine. For almost any homemade person, this wonderful thing can become a real drug. It’s enough to do it once and see it in action, and you’ll want to do it again and again. The relative simplicity of these engines allows them to be made literally from garbage. I won't stop there general principles and device. There is a lot of information about this on the Internet. For example: Wikipedia. Let's proceed immediately to the construction of the simplest low-temperature gamma-Stirling.

To build an engine with our own hands, we will need two covers for glass jars. They will serve as the cold and hot parts. The edge of these lids is cut off with scissors.

A hole is made in the center of one lid. The size of the hole should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the future cylinder.

The Stirling engine housing is cut from plastic bottle from under the milk. These bottles are just divided into rings. We'll need one. It should be noted that different varieties milk bottles may vary slightly.

The body is glued to the lid with plastic epoxy or sealant.

The marker body is perfect as a cylinder. This model has a cap that is smaller in diameter than the marker itself and can become a piston.

A small part is cut off from the marker. A part from the top of the cap is cut off.

This is a displacer. When a Stirling engine operates, it moves air inside the housing from the hot part to the cold part and back again. Made from dishwashing sponge. A magnet is glued in the center.

Since the top cover is made of tin, it can be attracted by a magnet. The displacer may become stuck. To prevent this from happening, the magnet must be additionally secured with a cardboard circle.

The cap is filled with epoxy compound. Holes are drilled at both ends for attaching the magnet and connecting rod holder. The threads in the holes are cut directly with a screw. These screws are needed to fine-tune the engine. A magnet in the piston is glued to the screw and adjusted so that, being at the bottom of the cylinder, it attracts the displacer. You will also need to glue a rubber stopper onto this magnet. A piece of bicycle tube or an eraser will do. The limiter is needed to prevent the magnets of the piston and displacer from being attracted too strongly. Otherwise, the pressure may not be enough to break the magnetic connection.

On top part A rubber gasket is glued onto the piston. It is needed for tightness and to protect the casing from rupture.

The piston housing is made of a rubber glove. You need to cut off your little finger.

After the casing is glued, another rubber gasket is glued on top. A hole is pierced through the rubber gaskets and casing with an awl. The connecting rod holder is screwed into this hole. This holder is made from a screw and a soldered washer.

Epoxy packaging worked perfectly as a crankshaft holder. The exact same jar can be taken from effervescent vitamins or aspirin.

The bottom of this jar is cut off and holes are made. In the upper part - to hold the crankshaft. At the bottom - for access to the connecting rod mount.

The crankshaft and connecting rod are made of wire. The white things are the limiter. Made from a Chupa Chups tube. Small pieces are cut from this tube and the resulting parts are cut lengthwise. This makes them easier to put on. The height of the elbow is determined by half the distance that the cylinder must travel from the lowest point to the highest point at which the magnetic connection ceases to operate.

So, we are all ready for the first tests. First you need to check the tightness. You need to blow into the cylinder. You can apply foam from dishwashing liquid to all joints. The slightest air leak and the engine will not work. If the seal is OK, you can insert the piston and secure the casing with a rubber band.

In the lower position of the cylinder, the displacer should be pulled to the top. Next, the entire structure is placed on a cup with hot water. After some time, the air inside the engine will begin to heat up and push the piston out. At a certain moment, the magnetic connection will be broken and the displacer will fall to the bottom. This way, the air in the engine will stop contacting the heated part and will begin to cool. The piston will begin to retract. Ideally, the piston should begin to move up and down. But this may not happen. Either the pressure will not be enough to move the piston, or the air will heat up too much and the piston will not retract all the way. Accordingly, this engine may have dead zones. It's not particularly scary. The main thing is that the dead zones are not too large. To compensate for dead spots, a flywheel is needed.

Another very important part of this stage is that here you can feel the principle of operation of the Stirling engine. I remember my first stirling which didn’t work only because I couldn’t figure out how and why this thing works. Here, by helping the piston move up and down with your hands, you can feel how the pressure rises and falls.

This design can be slightly improved by adding a syringe to the top cap. This syringe also needs to be placed on epoxy, the needle holder must be trimmed a little. The piston position in the syringe should be in the middle position. This syringe can be used to regulate the air volume inside the engine. Starting and adjusting will be much easier.

So you can install the crankshaft holder. The height of attachment of the connecting rod to the cylinder is adjusted with a screw.

The flywheel is made from a CD. The hole is sealed with plastic epoxy. Then you need to drill a hole exactly in the center. Finding the center is very easy. We use the properties of a right triangle inscribed in a circle. Its hypotenuse passes through the center. You need to attach a sheet of paper at a right angle to the edge of the disk. Orientation doesn't matter. Place marks where the sides of the sheet intersect with the edge of the disk. A line drawn through these marks will pass through the center. If we draw a second line in a different place, then at the intersection we will get the exact center.

The engine is ready.

Place the Stirling engine on a cup of boiling water. We wait a little and it should work on its own. If this does not happen, you need to help him slightly with your hand.

The manufacturing process on video.

Stirling engine at work

The modern automotive industry has reached a level of development at which, without fundamental scientific research, it is almost impossible to achieve fundamental improvements in the design of traditional internal combustion engines. This situation forces designers to pay attention to alternative power plant designs. Some engineering centers have focused their efforts on creating and adapting to serial production of hybrid and electric models, other automakers are investing in the development of engines using fuel from renewable sources (for example, biodiesel using rapeseed oil). There are other power unit projects that in the future could become a new standard propulsion system for vehicles.

Possible sources of mechanical energy for future cars include the external combustion engine, which was invented in the mid-19th century by Scotsman Robert Stirling as a thermal expansion engine.

Operation scheme

The Stirling engine converts thermal energy supplied from outside into useful mechanical work due to changes in working fluid temperature(gas or liquid) circulating in a closed volume.

IN general view The operating diagram of the device is as follows: in the lower part of the engine, the working substance (for example, air) heats up and, increasing in volume, pushes the piston upward. Hot air enters the upper part of the engine, where it is cooled by a radiator. The pressure of the working fluid decreases, the piston is lowered for the next cycle. In this case, the system is sealed and the working substance is not consumed, but only moves inside the cylinder.

There are several design options for power units using the Stirling principle.

Stirling modification "Alpha"

The engine consists of two separate power pistons (hot and cold), each of which is located in its own cylinder. Heat is supplied to the cylinder with the hot piston, and the cold cylinder is located in a cooling heat exchanger.

Stirling modification "Beta"

The cylinder containing the piston is heated at one end and cooled at the opposite end. A power piston and a displacer move in the cylinder, designed to change the volume of the working gas. The regenerator carries out the return movement of the cooled working substance into the hot cavity of the engine.

Stirling modification "Gamma"

The design consists of two cylinders. The first is completely cold, in which the power piston moves, and the second, hot on one side and cold on the other, serves to move the displacer. A regenerator for circulating cold gas can be common to both cylinders or be part of the displacer design.

Advantages of the Stirling engine

Like most external combustion engines, Stirling is characterized multi-fuel: the engine operates due to temperature changes, regardless of the reasons that caused it.

Interesting fact! An installation was once demonstrated that operated on twenty fuel options. Without stopping the engine, gasoline, diesel fuel, methane, crude oil and vegetable oil- the power unit continued to operate steadily.

The engine has simplicity of design and does not require additional systems and attachments (timing belt, starter, gearbox).

The features of the device guarantee a long service life: more than one hundred thousand hours of continuous operation.

The Stirling engine is silent, since detonation does not occur in the cylinders and there is no need to remove exhaust gases. The Beta modification, equipped with a rhombic crank mechanism, is a perfectly balanced system that has no vibrations during operation.

No processes occur in the engine cylinders that could have a negative impact on environment. By choosing a suitable heat source (eg solar energy) Stirling can be absolutely environmentally friendly power unit.

Disadvantages of the Stirling design

With all the set positive properties immediate mass use of Stirling engines is impossible for the following reasons:

The main problem is the material consumption of the structure. Cooling the working fluid requires large-volume radiators, which significantly increases the size and metal consumption of the installation.

The current technological level will allow the Stirling engine to compare in performance with modern gasoline engines only through the use of complex types working fluid (helium or hydrogen) under pressure of more than one hundred atmospheres. This fact raises serious questions both in the field of materials science and in ensuring user safety.

An important operational problem is related to issues of thermal conductivity and temperature resistance of metals. Heat is supplied to the working volume through heat exchangers, which leads to inevitable losses. In addition, the heat exchanger must be made of heat-resistant metals that are resistant to high blood pressure. Suitable materials very expensive and difficult to process.

The principles of changing the modes of the Stirling engine are also radically different from traditional ones, which requires the development of special control devices. Thus, to change power it is necessary to change the pressure in the cylinders, the phase angle between the displacer and the power piston, or influence the capacity of the cavity with the working fluid.

One way to control the shaft speed on a Stirling engine model can be seen in next video:

Efficiency

In theoretical calculations, the efficiency of the Stirling engine depends on the temperature difference of the working fluid and can reach 70% or more in accordance with the Carnot cycle.

However, the first samples realized in metal had extremely low efficiency for the following reasons:

• ineffective coolant (working fluid) options that limit the maximum heating temperature;
• energy losses due to friction of parts and thermal conductivity of the engine housing;
• lack of construction materials resistant to high pressure.

Engineering solutions constantly improved the design of the power unit. Thus, in the second half of the 20th century, a four-cylinder automobile The Stirling engine with a rhombic drive showed an efficiency of 35% in tests on a water coolant with a temperature of 55 ° C. Careful design development, the use of new materials and fine-tuning of working units ensured the efficiency of the experimental samples was 39%.

Note! Modern gasoline engines of similar power have an efficiency of 28-30%, and turbocharged diesel engines within 32-35%.

Modern examples of the Stirling engine, such as the one created American company Mechanical Technology Inc demonstrate efficiency up to 43.5%. And with the development of the production of heat-resistant ceramics and similar innovative materials, it will be possible to significantly increase the temperature of the working environment and achieve an efficiency of 60%.

Examples of successful implementation of automobile Stirlings

Despite all the difficulties, there are many known efficient Stirling engine models that are applicable to the automotive industry.

Interest in Stirling, suitable for installation in a car, appeared in the 50s of the 20th century. Work in in this direction led by such concerns as Ford Motor Company, Volkswagen Group and others.

The UNITED STIRLING company (Sweden) developed Stirling, which made maximum use of serial components and assemblies produced by automakers (crankshaft, connecting rods). The resulting four-cylinder V-engine had a specific weight of 2.4 kg/kW, which is comparable to the characteristics of a compact diesel engine. This unit was successfully tested as a power plant for a seven-ton cargo van.

One of the successful samples is a four-cylinder Stirling engine made in the Netherlands, model “Philips 4-125DA”, intended for installation in a passenger car. The engine had a working power of 173 hp. With. in dimensions similar to a classic gasoline unit.

General Motors engineers achieved significant results by building an eight-cylinder (4 working and 4 compression cylinders) V-shaped Stirling engine with a standard crank mechanism in the 70s.

Similar power plant in 1972 equipped with a limited series of Ford Torino cars, whose fuel consumption has decreased by 25% compared to the classic gasoline V-shaped eight.

Currently, more than fifty foreign companies are working to improve the design of the Stirling engine in order to adapt it to mass production for the needs of the automotive industry. And if we can eliminate the shortcomings of this type engines, while at the same time maintaining its advantages, then it is Stirling, and not turbines and electric motors, that will replace gasoline internal combustion engines.

A Stirling engine is a kind of engine that starts working from thermal energy. In this case, the energy source is completely unimportant. The main thing is that there is a difference temperature regime, in this case, such an engine will work. Now we will look at how you can create a model of such a low-temperature engine from a Coca-Cola can.

Materials and accessories

Now we will look at what we need to take to create an engine at home. What we need to take for stirling:

• Balloon.
• Three cola cans.
• Special terminals, five pieces (5A).
• Nipples for attaching bicycle spokes (two pieces).
• Metal wool.
• A piece of steel wire thirty cm long and 1 mm in cross section.
• A piece of large steel or copper wire with a diameter of 1.6 to 2 mm.
• Wooden pin with a diameter of twenty mm (length one cm).
• Bottle cap (plastic).
• Electrical wiring (thirty cm).
• Special glue.
• Vulcanized rubber (about 2 centimeters).
• Fishing line (length thirty cm).
• Several weights for balancing (for example, nickel).
• CDs (three pieces).
• Special buttons.
• Tin can for creating a firebox.
• Heat resistant silicone and tin for the manufacture of water cooling.

Description of the creation process

Stage 1. Preparing jars.

First, you should take 2 cans and cut off the top of them. If the tops are cut off with scissors, the resulting nicks will have to be filed off with a file.

Stage 2. Making the diaphragm.

As a diaphragm you can take balloon, which should be reinforced with vulcanized rubber. The ball must be cut and pulled onto the jar. Then we glue a piece of special rubber onto the central part of the diaphragm. After the glue has hardened, in the center of the diaphragm we will punch a hole for installing the wire. The easiest way to do this is to use a special button, which can be left in the hole until assembly.

Step 3: Cutting and creating holes in the lid.

Two holes of two mm each need to be made in the walls of the cover; they are necessary to install the rotary axis of the levers. Another hole must be made in the bottom of the lid; a wire will go through it, which will be connected to the displacer.

At the last stage, the lid must be cut off. This is done to prevent the displacer wire from getting caught on the edges of the cover. For such work, you can take household scissors.

Stage 4. Drilling.

You need to drill two holes in the jar for the bearings. In our case, this was done with a 3.5 mm drill.

Stage 5. Making a viewing window.

A special window must be cut in the engine housing. Now you can observe how all the components of the device work.

Stage 6. Modification of terminals.

You need to take the terminals and remove the plastic insulation from them. Then we'll take a drill and do it through holes at the edges of the terminals. A total of three terminals need to be drilled. Let's leave two terminals undrilled.

Stage 7. Creating leverage.

The material used to make the levers is copper wire, the diameter of which is only 1.88 mm. It’s worth looking up on the Internet exactly how to bend the knitting needles. You can also use steel wire, it’s just easier to work with copper wire.

Stage 8. Manufacturing of bearings.

To make the bearings you will need two bicycle nipples. The diameter of the holes needs to be checked. The author drilled them through using a two mm drill.

Stage 9. Installation of levers and bearings.

Levers can be placed directly through the viewing window. One end of the wire should be long, the flywheel will rest on it. The bearings should be firmly seated in the right places. If there is any play, they can be glued.

Stage 10. Making a displacer.

The displacer is made from steel wool for polishing. To make a displacer, a steel wire is taken, a hook is created on it, and then a certain amount of cotton wool is wound onto the wire. The displacer must be the same size so that it moves smoothly in the jar. The entire height of the displacer should not be more than five centimeters.

At the end on one side of the cotton wool you need to make a spiral of wire so that it does not come out of the cotton wool, and on the other side of the wire we make a loop. Then we will tie a fishing line to this loop, which will subsequently be attracted through the central part of the diaphragm. Vulcanized rubber should be in the middle of the container.

Stage 11. Making a pressure tank

You need to cut the bottom of the jar in a certain way so that about 2.5 cm remains from its base. The displacer together with the diaphragm must be moved to the tank. After this, this entire mechanism is transferred to the end of the can. The diaphragm needs to be tightened a little so that it does not sag.

Then you need to take the terminal that was not drilled and pass the fishing line through it. The knot must be glued so that it does not move. The wire must be properly lubricated with oil and at the same time make sure that the displacer can easily pull the line behind it.

Stage 12. Making push rods.

These special rods connect the diaphragm and the levers. This is made from a piece of copper wire fifteen cm long.

Stage 13. Creating and installing a flywheel

To make a flywheel, we take three old CDs. Let's take a wooden rod as the center. After installing the flywheel, bend the crankshaft rod so that the flywheel will not fall off.

At the last stage, the entire mechanism is completely assembled.

The last step, creating the firebox

Now we have reached the last step in creating the engine.

You can, of course, buy beautiful factory models of Stirling engines, such as in this Chinese online store. However, sometimes you want to create yourself and make a thing, even from improvised means. On our website there are already several options for manufacturing these motors, and in this publication, check out the complete simple option made at home.

To make it, you will need available materials: a can of canned food, a small piece of foam rubber, a CD, two bolts and paper clips.

Foam rubber is one of the most common materials used in the manufacture of Stirling motors. The engine displacer is made from it. We cut out a circle from a piece of our foam rubber, make its diameter two millimeters less than the inner diameter of the can, and its height a little more than half of it.

We drill a hole in the center of the cover into which we will then insert the connecting rod. To ensure smooth movement of the connecting rod, we make a spiral from a paper clip and solder it to the cover.

We pierce the foam rubber circle with a screw in the middle and secure it with a washer at the top and at the bottom with a washer and nut. After this, we attach a piece of paper clip by soldering, having first straightened it.

Now we stick the displacer into the hole made in advance in the lid and hermetically solder the lid and the jar together. We make a small loop at the end of the paperclip, and drill another hole in the lid, but a little larger than the first.

We make a cylinder from tin using soldering.

We attach the finished cylinder to the can using a soldering iron, so that there are no gaps left at the soldering site.

We make a crankshaft from a paper clip. The knee spacing should be 90 degrees. The knee that will be above the cylinder in height is 1-2 mm larger than the other.

We use paper clips to make stands for the shaft. We make a membrane. To do this, we put on the cylinder plastic film, push it inward a little and secure it to the cylinder with thread.

We make the connecting rod that will need to be attached to the membrane from a paper clip and insert it into a piece of rubber. The length of the connecting rod must be made such that at the bottom dead center of the shaft the membrane is pulled inside the cylinder, and at the highest, on the contrary, it is extended. We set up the second connecting rod in the same way.

We glue the connecting rod with rubber to the membrane, and attach the other one to the displacer.

We use a soldering iron to attach the paper clip legs to the can and attach the flywheel to the crank. For example, you can use an CD.

Stirling engine made at home. Now all that remains is to bring heat under the jar - light a candle. And after a few seconds give a push to the flywheel.

How to Make a Simple Stirling Engine (with Photos and Video)

www.newphysicist.com

Let's make a Stirling engine.

A Stirling engine is a heat engine that operates by cyclically compressing and expanding air or other gas (working fluid) at different temperatures, so that there is a net conversion of thermal energy into mechanical work. More specifically, the Stirling engine is a closed-cycle regenerative thermal engine with a continuously gaseous working fluid.

Stirling engines have more high efficiency compared to steam engines and can reach 50% efficiency. They are also capable of operating silently and can use almost any heat source. The thermal energy source is generated externally to the Stirling engine rather than through internal combustion as is the case with Otto cycle or diesel cycle engines.

Stirling engines are compatible with alternative and renewable energy sources, because they may become increasingly significant as the price of traditional fuels rises and in light of such problems as depletion of oil reserves and climate change.

In this project we will give you simple instructions to create a very simple engine DIY Stirling using a test tube and syringe .

How to make a simple Stirling engine – Video

Components and Steps to Make a Stirling Motor

1. Piece hardwood or plywood

This is the basis for your engine. Thus, it must be rigid enough to cope with the movements of the engine. Then make three small holes as shown in the picture. You can also use plywood, wood, etc.

2. Marble or glass balls

In the Stirling engine, these balls perform an important function. In this project, the marble acts as a displacer of hot air from the warm side of the test tube to the cold side. When marble displaces hot air, it's cooling down.

3. Sticks and screws

Pins and screws are used to hold the test tube in a comfortable position for free movement in any direction without any interruption.

4. Rubber pieces

Buy an eraser and cut it into the following shapes. It is used to hold the test tube securely and maintain its seal. There should be no leakage in the mouth part of the tube. If this is the case, the project will not be successful.

5. Syringe

The syringe is one of the most important and moving parts in simple engine Stirling. Add some lubricant inside the syringe so that the plunger can move freely inside the barrel. As air expands inside the test tube, it pushes the piston down. As a result, the syringe barrel moves upward. At the same time the marble rolls towards hot side test tubes and displaces hot air and causes it to cool (reduce volume).

6. Test Tube The test tube is the most important and working component of a simple Stirling engine. The test tube is made of a certain type of glass (such as borosilicate glass) that is highly heat resistant. So it can be heated to high temperatures.

How does a Stirling engine work?

Some people say that Stirling engines are simple. If this is true, then just like the great equations of physics (e.g. E = mc2), they are simple: simple on the surface, but richer, more complex, and potentially very confusing until you realize them. I think it's safer to think of Stirling engines as complex: many very bad YouTube videos show how to easily "explain" them in a very incomplete and unsatisfactory way.

In my opinion, you can't understand a Stirling engine by simply building it or observing how it works from the outside: you need to think seriously about the cycle of steps it goes through, what happens to the gas inside, and how it differs from what what happens in a conventional steam engine.

All that is required for the engine to operate is a temperature difference between the hot and cold parts of the gas chamber. Models have been built that can only operate with a temperature difference of 4 °C, although factory engines will likely operate with a difference of several hundred degrees. These engines may become the most efficient form of internal combustion engine.

Stirling engines and concentrated solar power

Stirling engines provide a neat method of converting thermal energy into motion that can drive a generator. The most common arrangement is to have the engine in the center parabolic mirror. A mirror will be mounted on the tracking device so that the sun's rays are focused on the engine.

* Stirling engine as receiver

You may have played with convex lenses in school years. Concentration solar energy for burning a piece of paper or a match, am I right? New technologies are developing day by day. Concentrated solar thermal energy is gaining more and more attention these days.

Above is a short video of a simple test tube motor using glass beads as the displacer and a glass syringe as the force piston.

This simple Stirling engine was built from materials that are available in most school science laboratories and can be used to demonstrate a simple heat engine.

Pressure-volume diagram per cycle

Process 1 → 2 Expansion of the working gas at the hot end of the test tube, heat is transferred to the gas, and the gas expands, increasing the volume and pushing the syringe plunger upward.

Process 2 → 3 As the marble moves towards the hot end of the test tube, gas is forced from the hot end of the test tube to the cold end, and as the gas moves, it transfers heat to the wall of the test tube.

Process 3 → 4 Heat is removed from the working gas and the volume decreases, the syringe piston moves down.

Process 4 → 1 Completes the cycle. The working gas moves from the cold end of the test tube to the hot end as the marbles displace it, receiving heat from the wall of the test tube as it moves, thereby increasing the pressure of the gas.

Explanation of the operation of the Stirling engine.

We start by marking the flywheel.

Six holes failed. It turns out not beautiful. The holes are small and the body between them is thin.

In one go we sharpen the counterweights for the crankshaft. The bearings are pressed in. Subsequently, the bearings are pressed out and an M3 thread is cut in their place.

I milled it, but you can also use a file.

This is part of the connecting rod. The rest is soldered with PSR.

Working with a reamer over the sealing washer.

Drilling the Stirling bed. The hole that connects the displacer to the working cylinder. 4.8 drill for M6 thread. Then it needs to be turned off.

Drilling the working cylinder liner for reaming.

Drilling for M4 thread.

How it was done.

Dimensions are given taking into account the conversion. Two pairs of cylinder-piston, 10mm, were made. and by 15mm. Both were tested. If you set the cylinder to 15mm. then the piston stroke will be 11-12mm. and it doesn't work. But 10mm. with a stroke of 24mm. just right.

Dimensions of connecting rods. Brass wire Ф3mm is soldered to them.

Connecting rod mounting assembly. The version with bearings did not work. When the connecting rod is tightened, the bearing is deformed and creates additional friction. Instead of a bearing I made Al. bushing with bolt.

Dimensions of some parts.

Some dimensions for the flywheel.

Some sizes of how to mount on the shaft and joints.

We place a 2-3mm asbestos gasket between the cooler and the combustion chamber. It is also advisable to place paronite gaskets or something that conducts less heat under the bolts that hold both parts together.

The displacer is the heart of Stirling; it must be light and conduct little heat. The stock was taken from the same old hard drive. This is one of the linear motor guides. Very suitable, hardened, chrome plated. In order to cut the thread, I wrapped a soaked rag around the middle and heated the ends until red hot.

Connecting rod with working cylinder. Total length 108mm. Of these, 32mm is a piston with a diameter of 10mm. The piston should move into the cylinder easily, without noticeable scuffing. To check, close it tightly with your finger from below, and insert the piston from above, it should release down very slowly.

I planned to do this but made changes during the process. In order to find out the stroke of the working cylinder, we move the displacer to refrigerator and We extend the working cylinder by 25 mm. We heat the combustion chamber. We carefully place a ruler under the working connecting rod and remember the data. We push the displacer sharply, and how much the working cylinder moves is its stroke. This size plays a very important role.

View of the working cylinder. Connecting rod length 83mm. The stroke is 24mm. The handwheel is attached to the shaft with an M4 screw. His head is visible in the photo. And in this way the counterweight of the displacer connecting rod is attached.

View of the displacer connecting rod. The total length with the displacer is 214 mm. Connecting rod length 75mm. Stroke 24mm. Pay attention to the groove U figurative form to the flywheel. Made for power take-off. The idea was either a generator or through a pin to the cooler fan. The flywheel pylon has dimensions 68x25x15. The top part is milled on one side to a depth of 7mm and a length of 32mm. The center of the bearing from the bottom is at 55mm. Fastened from below with two M4 bolts. The distance between the centers of the pylons is 126mm.

View of the combustion chamber and cooler. The engine housing is pressed into the pylon. The dimensions of the pylon are 47x25x15, the recess for landing is 12 mm. It is attached to the board from below with two M4 bolts.

Lamp 40mm. in diameter height 35mm. Recessed into the shaft by 8mm. At the bottom in the center there is an M4 nut sealed and secured with a bolt from below.

Finished look. Oak base 300x150x15mm.

Nameplate.

I've been searching for a long time working diagram. I found it, but it was always due to the fact that either there was a problem with the equipment or with the materials. I decided to make it like a crossbow. After looking at many options and figuring out what I had in stock and what I could do myself using my equipment. The dimensions that I figured out right away, when assembled device I didn't like it. It turned out too wide. I had to shorten the cylinder frame. And the flywheel should be placed on one bearing (on one pylon). The materials of the flywheel, connecting rods, counterweight, sealing washer, lamp and working cylinder are bronze. The pylons, working piston, cylinder frame cooler and washer with threads from the fire chamber are aluminum. Flywheel shaft and displacer rod steel. Stainless steel combustion chamber. Graphite displacer. And I’ll put it on display for you to judge.