Nowadays they are gaining more and more popularity plastic products. This material is quite practical and reliable, and also not expensive. If you decide to change wooden windows for plastic ones, and you don’t want to overpay for installing a window sill, or you just want to install a window sill with your own hands, then this article is just for you.

The preparatory stage includes measurements of the future design, as well as all materials and tools, as well as preparation window opening to install a new window sill.

Before purchasing, you need to take several measurements, namely:

Window sill width. It is equal to the width of the window opening plus 10-15 centimeters.
Window sill length. Measured as the length of the window opening plus 10-15 centimeters.

It should be noted that a window sill that is too large and wide can significantly impair air circulation, therefore, water droplets will accumulate on the windows and their service life will be reduced.

Of the tools, you should prepare or purchase:

Jigsaw or grinder.
Level.
Hammer.
Angle-ruler.
Masking tape.

Materials you will need:

Construction foam.
Sealant.
End caps.
PVC panel of suitable size.
Plastic substrates.

Preparing the surface for installing a window sill

To begin, you need to remove old design. This is done using a jigsaw or hacksaw. Next, you need to remove the cement screed around the edges.

Clear the space of debris, loose material, insulation, and everything else. This will guarantee reliable fastening new window sill. It is best to vacuum the base under the window sill, this way you are guaranteed to reliably clean the base.

If you are planning to install a window sill with projections on the sides, then you should create small openings so that the panel fits in easily. First, a notch is made on the wall, then an opening is knocked out with a hammer the right size. The openings must be the same on both sides and such that the PVC panel can be easily inserted.

After cleaning the base under the window sill, it should be well primed to ensure adhesion of the solution to level the base.

If you are only planning to replace the window sill, and the windows remain old, then the width and height will be the same as the width and height of the old wooden window sill. All you have to do is remove it and transfer the measurements to PVC panel. If they plan to change the windows or new windows have already been installed, then the dimensions of the window sill are calculated again. It is important that the window sill is installed only after the installation of the new windows has been completed. When taking accurate measurements before cutting, it is important to take into account that the window sill must extend under window frame by 10-15 centimeters, and the protrusions on the sides should not exceed 5 centimeters. The window sill should be made at an angle so that the absolute height under window frame and the height at the periphery differed by 2-3 millimeters.

Installing a PVC window sill with your own hands involves cutting the material. You can order PVC cutting at a hardware store or do it yourself using a jigsaw.

Once you have your PVC panel cut out, follow the instructions:

Cut the bars for the substrates. They can be either plastic or wooden. Their width should not be less than 5 centimeters, and their length should be the same as the width of the base, excluding the window frame. The thickness of the substrate is selected based on the height of the window opening and the width of the PVC panel. Please note that the PVC panel must fit freely between the window frame and the substrates.
The optimal number of substrates is 2-3 pieces per meter of length. Before installing them, the base must be properly leveled.
The base is leveled using cement mortar or alabaster mortar. This is done to ensure that the window sill does not have significant irregularities and maintains the integrity of the structure.
After the base is leveled, it is checked with a level.
Supports are installed every 40-50 centimeters. After this, they are checked by level in two directions. The supports can be tilted away from the window, but the angle of inclination should not exceed 0.5-1 degree.
To check the correct installation of the supports, a control installation of the panel is done. If it fits in well and lies flat, then work continues.
Before you start fixing the window frame, you should first clean the window frames from the protective film and install plugs on the ends.
The supports are securely fastened, and only after that the plastic panel can be installed. To ensure that it adheres to the base as best as possible, it is tapped with a hammer. After that, control measurements are made again with the level in two directions. If the panel lies flat, then work continues; if not, the panel is removed and the supports are aligned.
Small gaps should be left on the left and right to prevent the panel from deforming. At the end of the work, they are sealed with sealant. The gaps should be no more than 5 millimeters. This is done so that the foam does not deform the window sill.
All cracks and voids are filled with foam. Some experienced experts advise filling the voids between the supports not with foam, but with some kind of solution, for example, gypsum or cement. In this case, the support will be securely fastened.
If you are afraid that the window sill may become deformed under the influence of foam, then leave several weights on it for a couple of days. Although, this should not happen if you left small gaps on the left and right.
After the foam has completely dried, the excess should be removed with a knife, all remaining cracks should be filled with sealant, the joints between the window sill and the wall should be leveled and puttied. This way you will give your window sill a neater look.

In order to better understand the sequence of work, we suggest you watch the DIY installation of plastic window sills video.

Unlike plastic, wood gives the interior a touch of luxury and home comfort. But, at the same time, wood is a heavier and more capricious material.

The preparation process is no different from the preparation process for a plastic window sill.

The plane is cleaned and primed, leveled and supports are installed. The only difference is that a wooden window sill also needs metal frame.

Wood is a rather heavy material. Small blocks of aerated concrete or wooden blocks. It is best if the gaps between these blocks are minimal. All cracks should first be filled with a solution of cement or gypsum.

To ensure that the window sill does not hang in the air and is securely attached to the surface, screws are screwed from above onto the base at a distance of 30-40 centimeters. The caps of the screws should stick out as much as necessary so that the window sill fits tightly to the base of the window frame and does not hang in the air. To prevent the screw caps from falling inward, they are coated with plaster or cement around them. Then, it is applied to the plane construction foam. Special attention is given to the surface under the window, the rest of the space is filled evenly with foam.

After all the work has been completed, a wooden window sill panel is placed on top and blown with foam along the seams. After a few days, the foam is cut off and the cracks are filled with sealant.

Installing a window sill with your own hands plastic window assumes certain knowledge, therefore, carefully re-read the instructions and watch the training video before starting.

Installing a window sill involves such basic types of work as: surface preparation, leveling, fastening the base, fastening the window sill, sealing the structure.

If the house has windows, then there must be window sills. Qualitatively installed window sill performs not only a decorative function - it serves as protection for the room from the penetration of cold.

Structures can be wooden, granite or PVC. Installing a PVC window sill with your own hands can only be done after studying the technology for installing PVC products.

Why PVC window sills
Preparing the installation site
General recommendations

Why PVC window sills

Unlike wooden window sills, PVC products perfectly withstand sudden temperature changes.
High resistance to impacts and scratches.
Does not require anti-corrosion coating.
The presence of chambers provides good thermal insulation qualities.
Installation of the window sill can be done independently.
Easy care during use.
PVC perfectly resists long-term exposure to moisture.
Possibility of installation for both plastic and wooden structures windows

Selection of tools and material

High-quality installation of a plastic window sill with your own hands can only be carried out with making the right choice source material, tools and accurate implementation of installation recommendations.

During installation you will need:

Window sill made of polyvinyl chloride and caps for its ends.
Corner, building level, marker and tape measure.
Silicone sealant and polyurethane foam.
Jigsaw, hammer drill and screwdriver.
Cement mortar.
A stationery knife and a clean rag.

Preparing the installation site

A new PVC window sill will look good if you carefully prepare the area for its installation. This is especially important when replacing old windows. After dismantling the outdated window opening, check for chips and cracks around the window. If necessary, the masonry should be restored. Remove fine debris and dust, and apply a primer to the base.

Important! Before installing a PVC window sill, check the quality of installation of the window frame to avoid cold penetration into the house.

Once the new window has been installed and the base for installing the PVC window sill has been carefully prepared, you can begin measuring the space and preparing the window sill for installation. Before you install plastic window sill, it will have to be cut to the width and length of the opening.

The width of the window sill can be the same as the slopes or a little larger. The length of the product must be cut 4-6 cm longer than the distance between the slopes. Two horizontal cuts are made in the vertical slopes, into which the window sill will be inserted.

Plastic window sills can be installed in three ways:

To fasten the product, polyurethane foam or special glue is used.
The window sill is secured using brackets.
To install a PVC window sill, a profile is used.

Instructions for working with glue

Step #1. On the side slopes of the window opening, cut two notches at the same level, and clean the window sill base well and, if necessary, deepen it.

Step #2. Before installing a new window sill, dry the surfaces and coat them with primer.

Step #3. Insert the cut-to-size window sill into the grooves under the window frame.

Step #4. Use wooden wedges to wedge the window sill between the frame and the window opening. Insert wedges in the middle and edges of the window sill.

Important! There should be no gaps between the window sill and the window frame.

Step #5. Install pads between the window sill and the window opening so that the surface of the structure is horizontal.

Step #6. Pump polyurethane foam with a small expansion coefficient between the PVC window sill and the window opening. To prevent the window sill from rising, place a load on top of it.

Step #7. Install plugs on the side cuts.

Important! A window sill that protrudes strongly beyond the wall must be strengthened by applying cement mortar.

Step #8. 12 hours after foaming the window sill, remove the load.

Instructions for installation on a rigid base

This installation of a PVC window sill is considered the most durable and durable.

Step #1. Mark and trim the window sill as in the previous installation option.

Step #2. Apply a cement screed on the previously cleaned window opening. Adjust the height of the screed so that new window sill fits exactly into the grooves of the window frame.

Step #3. To fasten the product use liquid plastic or silicone glue.

Instructions for working with brackets

Step #1. A stand profile is installed under the window and securely fastened. At least 4 brackets are mounted in it with self-tapping screws. The maximum distance between the brackets is 25 cm. Fastening is best done with self-tapping screws with press washers.

Step #2. The PVC window sill is being installed on brackets. When properly seated tightly, you should hear a click.

Step #3. The window sill and frame are connected using screws.

Step #4. Wide window sill additionally fixed on cement mortar.

Instructions for working with metal profiles

Step #1. Attach to the window sill block in a horizontal position metal profile L or U-shaped.

Step #2. Install the cut window sill into the groove and secure it with self-tapping screws.

Step #3. Free space between new design and blow out the base with foam.

Step #4. The structure can be further strengthened using cement mortar.

When working with a hammer drill, protect your hands with gloves and your eyes with special goggles.
Polyurethane foam adheres much better to a wetted surface. Before foaming, wet the surface of the base and the back of the window sill using a spray bottle.
It is best to pump the sealant in strips, leaving space between them.
The protrusion of the window sill beyond the line of the window slopes should not be more than 60 mm, and the length should exceed the width of the window opening by a maximum of 15 cm.
If the length of the window sill should be strictly horizontal, then the width should be slightly inclined from the window. The slope should not exceed 3%.
When installing window sills, it is necessary to take into account the location heating devices so as not to worsen the microclimate of the room.
The rigidity of a PVC window sill increases significantly when using a wooden backing. All bars must be the same size. The length of the bar is equal to the distance from the window frame to the edge of the opening. The distance between the fixed strips is 25 cm.
After the foam has completely hardened, its excess is removed. The wall under the window sill is puttied and decoration begins.

After reading the article to the end, you learned how to properly install a polyvinyl chloride window sill in several ways. Each installation method has its own advantages and disadvantages. At the right approach And high-quality implementation Installing a new window sill is not as complicated as it seems at first glance.

Watch another video about installing a window sill. The apartment owner shares his installation experience.

When replacing old window structures, you must immediately install new window sills from modern materials. Today, plastic products are at the top of their popularity. The width of the PVC panel is 60 cm, which makes it possible to install them with almost any wall thickness. Read on to learn how to install a plastic window sill efficiently and reliably.

Preparatory work
Exception - installation of wooden structures

Preparatory work

IN preparatory stage includes measurement and design selection, selection of tools, purchase of building materials. If the double-glazed windows have not been replaced, the old window sill board will need to be dismantled. When replacing a window, it is carried out complete removal old window design. Installation of a new double-glazed window is carried out by specialists from the manufacturer. Installation of a plastic window sill can also be carried out by specialists or by the customer himself.

Installation of a plastic window sill is carried out only after installing the window frame and double-glazed windows.

When replacing only the panel, you must first take the correct measurement:

Measure the width of the window opening. Add another 10 cm and get the total length of the structure.
The width of the panel is equal to the distance from installed window to the corner of the wall plus 5 cm on the ledge. Do more wide base windows are impractical because air circulation is disrupted, which leads to glass fogging.

Tools and materials

To install a plastic window sill with your own hands, you will need a set of tools:

carpenter level;
electric jigsaw or grinder;
carpenter's knife and hacksaw;
ax and hammer;
square;
marker and masking tape.

The following materials should be prepared:

sealant;
gun and polyurethane foam;
window sill panel;
three sets of plastic or wood bases of different widths;
two end caps.

Preparing the installation site for a PVC window sill

Using a hacksaw, electric jigsaw, an ax removes the old structure and window frame. Along the edges wooden product deleted cement screed. Clean the opening from loose building material and insulation.

Specialists install a new PVC window so that between the base of the window opening and bottom a distance of at least 5 cm has been preserved between the frames. The opening left will serve as a support for the new structure.

If you plan to install a PVC window sill with your own hands that is longer than the window opening, grooves are selected on the sides at the base. For this you need a hammer and a grinder. First, they cut the wall, and then carefully knock it out with a hammer. building material. The height of the groove is such that new panel went in easily. The length of one groove is more than 5 cm.

The distance between the base of the window opening and the frame is foamed with mounting foam or covered with insulation. After the foam has completely hardened, cut off the excess with a carpenter's knife. When installing plastic panel the size of a window opening, mark the mounting locations of the brackets at a distance of no more than 80 cm.

Before installing the PVC product, you must once again clean the base of debris and dust. Be sure to moisten the brick with water to ensure adhesion.

Installing a plastic window sill

All materials have been purchased and the tools are ready to go. The installation of the window sill begins.

Determine the width of the structure. It can be the same as the width of the old base. When replacing windows and installing a new PVC product, its new width is calculated. Ideally, the edge of the panel is located in the same plane as the middle of the battery heating system. When installing a panel, the edge of which protrudes beyond the battery, it is equipped in the panel itself ventilation holes. Such holes are also made in the casing in front of the battery. They are needed for good air ventilation in front of the window, which protects window design from the appearance of condensation.
Select the length of the plastic base. When two windows are located nearby, preference is given to one with a holistic design. When installing PVC window sills of a size equal to the window opening, the length of the panel is made shorter by 10 mm.

According to the selected panel sizes, an order is made at a hardware store. The store's craftsmen immediately carry out trimming according to given parameters. Sometimes they buy a blank and do the trimming at home themselves.

The support for mounting plastic window sills is made from pre-purchased substrates. The width of the bar must be at least 50 mm, and the length must not exceed the width of the product. The shortest underlay should be 100 mm less than the width of the panel. Particular attention is paid to the thickness of the substrate. After installing the bar, the panel should fit into the window sill space between the lower window frame and the substrate.
Before installing the support bars, the surface of the base is leveled with cement mortar. One structure requires a minimum of three substrates. Optimal distance between bars - 40–50 cm.
The supports are aligned strictly horizontally and the correct installation is checked using a level in all planes. Do control unit plastic panel. The result correct fastening The substrate is the tight fit of the structure into the gap between the edge of the window and the support.
Do-it-yourself installation of plastic window sills begins with removal from the side adjacent to the window, protective film. Install plugs on the ends of the panel. Carefully insert the structure onto the fixed supports.
The panel fits tightly into place. Lightly tap the product to align it with the window frame. Carry out level control measurements in two directions.
Gaps of 5 mm are left on the right and left, which makes it possible to protect the panel from deformation. Upon completion of installation, the gaps are sealed with sealant.
Carefully foam the space under the plastic window sill with polyurethane foam. If the panel is poorly fixed, the increase in foam volume will cause it to warp.
Spacers are installed along the edges and in the center of the window opening. You can make them yourself or buy transforming spacers in a store. They do not allow the mounting foam to lift the installed base of the window opening. When the foam hardens well, the spacers are dismantled and the excess is cut off. polyurethane foam.
After the slopes are installed, they begin to seal the gaps. Painting tape is glued along the edges. Fill the gap silicone sealant. Remove the excess and remove the masking tape.
The protective film is removed after completion of work.

An exception is the installation of wooden window sills

Window sills made of oak, pine, beech, ash or cherry make the interior of the house warmer and more comfortable. Giving preference natural materials, many owners of apartments and houses instead artificial plastic choose natural wooden bases. Sold in stores wood panels varnished different shades With different texture surfaces. Having made your choice, proceed to installing a wooden window sill with your own hands.

Preparing the walls

Clean the base from dust and debris. The surface is moistened with water to ensure good adhesion. If there is a niche under the window, metal or wooden supports are laid horizontally on top so that the panel does not hang in the air. In this case, the wooden structure is dressed in a metal frame.

Window sill leveling

The window sill board is first placed using wedges, ensuring that it slopes into the room by only 2 degrees. Along the window, the board is positioned strictly horizontally. When all the necessary indicators have been achieved, the wedges are strengthened with a small amount of solution by removing the workpiece.

Fastening a wooden window sill

A layer of mortar is laid on the base, covering the wedges by 5 mm. Mostly cement mortar is used, but putty or gypsum can be used. Place the window sill in place and press it tightly against the wedges until it stops. Any excess that appears is removed with a spatula.

Advice! To be on the safe side, an insulating film is first laid on top of the solution to protect the wood from direct contact with the aqueous solution.

Sealing and strengthening of fastening

For more reliable fixation From the facade side, long self-tapping screws are driven through the window frame into the end of the wooden window sill. After the fastening of the structure is completed, small cracks are sealed with liquid acrylic.

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How to install window sills on plastic windows quickly and correctly

The inner window sill is integral element any window. It is officially believed that this part of the structure is necessary for additional insulation the lower junction of the window frame with the wall and giving the window a finished look. In this article we will talk about what types of window sills there are and, since plastic windows occupy at least 50 - 70% of the market in our country, I will dwell in detail on how to properly install a window sill on plastic windows.

What types of window sills are there?

By and large, if the craftsmen installed the window frame efficiently and foamed the bottom gap well, this sector no longer needs special insulation. Therefore, owners are usually more interested in the question of how respectable this or that window sill will look, and, of course, the price of this pleasure.

Many inexperienced owners believe that since their windows are plastic, then all other fittings should also be mounted from PVC (polyvinyl chloride, popularly known as window plastic).

In fact, you can put any window sills here, the main thing is that they suit the design and you have enough money for them. Therefore, before installing a window sill on plastic windows, it would be a good idea to familiarize yourself with the main offers on the market:

Naturally, the most popular material is the above-mentioned polyvinyl chloride. The hollow structure, reinforced with internal ribs, is considered quite warm and durable. It harmonizes almost perfectly with traditional white windows, and for laminated windows you can choose a window sill. Plus, the PVC plate costs quite reasonable money. Plastic is not afraid of moisture and, if the technology is not broken, then it will last as long as windows;

If the choice fell on PVC, you should not get carried away with saving, they are not expensive anyway. The fact is that plastic, like no other material, is exposed to sunlight. While the window sill is new, everything will be beautiful, but after six months the surface of the cheap plastic will change. At a minimum, it will turn yellow, and at maximum, it will crack and become deformed.

Figuratively speaking, the older brother of polyvinyl chloride is a plastic window sill on an acrylic base. It costs about 3 times more, but the quality is much better. Whatever one may say, a PVC plate is afraid of elevated temperatures, unlike it, you can place hot pots on acrylic and even a cigarette butt forgotten on it will not cause harm to the surface. Acrylic plate is much stronger, its shiny glossy surface looks more respectable. The colors here are brighter and the palette is wider;

The wooden window sill is rightfully considered the patriarch this direction . In the budget sector, pine is usually used. The range of species in luxury window sills is much wider; it can be golden oak, teak and a dozen more exotic species wood But to be honest, I don’t understand people who put expensive natural wood on plastic windows. And in general, plastic does not harmonize well with wood, unless these windows are laminated to match a certain type of wood;

Window sills from laminated chipboard or MDF. In this case, these are the same slabs from which the countertops are made, which is actively used by designers. Chipboard will cost a little less, MDF will be more expensive. But MDF is more resistant to a humid environment and I always recommend using it. Since installing a window sill if the window is already standing is a task for home handyman quite feasible, people have now rushed en masse to replace the old plastic with new laminated MDF;

Polished window sill natural stone, of course, they look luxurious, but the prices for them are, frankly, exorbitant. Although if you look at it, they are not so good in operation. The fact is that natural stone is unpredictable; stains from coffee or red wine may remain on it; any slab always has a critical point, at which the slab will burst with a slight blow. Plus, the same granite can often and densely emit light radiation. Agree, it’s not very pleasant to install such a “gift” in own home, and even for a lot of money;

Both in terms of cost and operational characteristics It is much more profitable to install modern artificial stone. Firstly, in appearance it is often no different from natural. Secondly, it is more resistant to mechanical and chemical influences. The accusations of skeptics that artificial stone is less durable are only partly true. After all, for example, the warranty for porcelain stoneware starts from 50 – 70 years. To put it bluntly, these window sills are more likely to get boring than to fall apart.

For a story about manufacturers and prices for everything existing species no article is enough for window sills. But since even an amateur can install a plastic window sill correctly, I decided to stick with it. Plus, according to statistics, about 50% of the plastic window market is occupied by PVC window sills.

Below, to make it easier for you to navigate, I have compiled a small table that contains the most popular and reliable manufacturers of various window fittings with average prices for the window sills we are interested in.

Company name	Country of origin	Average price per linear meter window sill	Types of design (not counting white, it is everywhere)
Moeller	Germany	330 rub.
Werzalit	Germany	350 rub.
Niko-Plast	Russia	560 rub.
Danke	Ukraine	365 rub.	Imitation natural stones and wood. 11 types
Melenger	Russia	960 rub.	Imitation of natural stones and wood. 12 types
Crystalit	Russia	345 rub.	Imitation of natural stones and wood. 16 types
Montblanc	Russia	60 rub. (white) 130 rub. (color)	Imitation of natural stones and wood. 10 types
Vitrage	Russia	350 rub.	Imitation of natural stones and wood. 14 types

Window sill installation technique

The easiest way is to install or replace a window sill made of PVC and acrylic yourself. Instructions for MDF installation, chipboard and natural wood not much more difficult. As for natural or artificial stone, then it is better to entrust these materials to professionals, since not every master can install them.

Removing the old stove

Naturally, before replacing an old, outdated window sill with a new one, you must first dismantle it. Don't be alarmed, this is a simple matter, but a responsible one. After all, the more carefully you remove the slab, the less hassle there will be with preparing the base.

If there is a wooden window sill, then to dismantle it you will need a hacksaw and a pry bar or a small crowbar. It’s not worth knocking out the board right away with a pry bar; you can seriously damage the slopes and then you’ll have to tinker with them as well. It is better to make 2 or 3 cuts and pull out the central part. In this case, on the sides you will have small pieces walled up in the slopes. These pieces need to be carefully knocked out with several blows from the side, at the end;

I am often asked whether it is possible to replace a hacksaw with a grinder? So, under no circumstances should you do this. Remember, perhaps the greatest number of injuries and injuries from an angle grinder occur precisely when trying to cut a tree with an angle grinder.

But in the case of a reinforced concrete or stone slab, an angle grinder with diamond blade it will be exactly what you need. In this case, in addition to it, a heavy hammer or a small sledgehammer will also come in handy. First, several cuts are made with a grinder, if possible through. After this, take a hammer and knock out this entire “cut” with blows from bottom to top. Residues are cleaned using a pry bar;

The fastening of a plastic window sill is considered one of the weakest. But before removing such a slab, you should first dismantle the ebb (outer window sill) and check whether our plastic is screwed on with self-tapping screws from the outside. If they are there, then naturally they will need to be unscrewed. If there are none, then all you have to do is carefully trim the mounting foam under the slab and try to pull out the window sill, simultaneously moving it down and towards you.

A few words about preparing the base

Whether you're replacing an old structure or working from a clean slate, before you install anything new, you need to prepare the foundation. In fact, all preparation consists of removing dust and debris, as well as filling large potholes, if any.

Some craftsmen advise making a level screed under the window sill, supposedly on its basis it will be easier to level the slab. I tried installing both with and without a screed, on a bare base.

I’ll tell you honestly, there’s nothing reprehensible in the screed, you can do this, but it’s a pity for the time spent on it. After all, by and large, there is no difference in whether you place wooden wedges on a flat base or on a curve. And if you plan to install it on alabaster or cement-sand mortar, arranging a level screed generally loses its meaning.

Let's start installation

Window sill installation always begins with fitting. Of course, ideally, it is better to install the window sill before arranging the slopes, while the walls are bare, but this only happens in new buildings.

Since we are talking about how to replace the old with the new, we will have to cut, or rather, knock out grooves in the side slopes. There is one interesting nuance here. The instructions recommend that before placing the window sill to the plastic window, make wide lateral allowances, approximately 5 - 7 cm from each edge.

That is, we need to make side grooves in the slopes 5–7 cm deep along the outer edge. It is believed that this is supposedly more elegant. If you need to cultivate 1 - 2 windows, then these approaches to the walls will not play a big role.

It’s a completely different matter when the task is to completely furnish all the windows in a fairly large private house, and funds are limited. In this case, an addition of 10 cm on each window will eventually result in a whole extra window sill.

Personally, I always recommend making side tolerances of no more than 20 - 30 mm. Believe me, to ensure decent appearance this is quite enough. Moreover, on most windows in residential buildings And in apartments, curtains are hung that will completely cover all these tolerances.

The side grooves themselves are knocked out to the tolerance depth, that is, to the distance at which the slab will go inside the slope.

In order to accurately mark and not grab excess, you need to take a square, attach it to the window frame and draw a horizontal line starting from the top cut of the groove under the window sill and ending with the outer cut of the slope. This will be the upper boundary of our groove.

The easiest way is to make cuts on the slopes with a grinder to the required depth, and then knock out the excess using a hammer drill or chisel with a hammer.

Plastic window sills can be installed in two ways, with or without fixation on the window frame. The only difference is that in the first version, the inner end of the window sill, the one that is adjacent to the window frame, is first rigidly fixed to this very frame. Further, the entire installation algorithm is completely identical.

When marking and trimming the window sill, it should be taken into account that it should not protrude beyond the cut of the wall by more than 5 - 7 cm. And the plane sinks under the frame itself by a maximum of 1 - 2 cm.

Fixing it to the frame is extremely simple. In the place where the window sill will be adjacent to the frame, in increments of 300 - 400 mm, a row is made along the horizon through holes. After which, the window sill is pressed against the frame and from the street side, through these holes it is screwed with long self-tapping screws. The self-tapping screws must enter the body of the slab at least 20 - 30 mm.

But it is not always possible to screw the slab to the frame with self-tapping screws. In this case, it is simply inserted under the frame. To enhance the thermal insulation, immediately before strengthening the slab, I apply a couple of strips of polyurethane foam to the installation site.

The installation of a plastic window sill itself looks something like this: first we insert the slab we cut out and see how it will lie in the future. There is no need to worry about horizontal curvature. After all, the slab is adjacent to the lower edge of the window frame, which is already aligned to the horizon.

But we need to slightly tilt the slab towards the inside of the room so that, if necessary, water does not accumulate, but flows freely from the window sill. How many times have I encountered different sources the magnitude of this angle is interpreted differently. Personally, I tilt it around 5mm in width.

The inclined slab itself will be based on wooden wedges. These wedges are usually installed at a distance of about 300 mm from each other. Each of them is cut and adjusted personally and must fit tightly, without gaps.

As mentioned earlier, the plate sits in a groove under the window frame on mounting foam. Then it rests on the wedges we installed. But before you secure it completely, check again that it stands firmly, without distortions or play. It’s better to tinker with adjusting the wedges now than to constantly cover up the cracks later.

To increase the adhesion (adhesion) of the polyurethane foam to any surface, this very surface must be well moistened.

The slab is secured by filling the voids underneath with foam. And don’t try to blow out too much foam, it won’t make things better, the extra will still come out.

As you know, polyurethane foam expands when it hardens, and if this feature is not taken into account in time, then your window sill may squeeze out in the middle. To prevent such an incident from happening, after filling the gaps with foam, you need to place a load of about 15 - 20 kg on the windowsill. It should stand for at least 10 - 12 hours.

At the last stage, the load is removed, the excess foam squeezed out from below is cut off, and the unflattering cracks on the sides of the slopes are filled with putty. Then all that remains is to admire your work.

Installation of wood and its derivatives

As I already mentioned, installing window sills made of natural wood, MDF or chipboard is not a little more complicated than installing plastic. Here, in exactly the same way, you need to knock out the grooves in the slopes after marking.

The window sill itself, if the frame design allows, it is advisable to fix it on the frame or on a base profile, which is placed under the frame. As in the case of plastic, this is done using self-tapping screws through through holes.

But in this case there is one small nuance: there is such an interesting physical quantity as the coefficient of thermal expansion of the material. So, when we put a plastic window sill on a plastic window there is nothing to be afraid of, because this coefficient is the same.

But in case of docking different materials, as a result of a mismatch in thermal and moisture expansion, gaps and cracks may appear over time. Therefore, we will need to glue a so-called damper tape to the end of the slab, which is designed to compensate for these vibrations.

Naturally, this tape is glued or attached to brackets only in places of direct contact with the body of the slopes and the window frame. Traditionally, the material for such tape is felt impregnated with an antiseptic. Although now some craftsmen use penofol (foamed polyethylene).

Wood, chipboard or MDF are heavier than plastic, so I personally prefer to use polyurethane foam instead gypsum mortar, it’s more reliable. Instead of gypsum, you can just as successfully install the slab on a cement-sand mortar diluted in a ratio of 1:3.

In this case, the instructions will look something like this. We knock out grooves in the slopes, try on the slab and grind it under it required quantity wooden wedges. After this, apply the solution to the base. The layer of solution should cover the wedges by 5 - 10 mm.

Further along the line where it joins the frame, we apply a couple of strips of polyurethane foam. We insert the window sill with the damper tape and press it until it rests against the wedges. We remove the excess squeezed out mortar and putty the cracks on the slopes at the junction with the slab.

If everything is done correctly, the window sill will stand firmly. But some masters prefer to play it safe. They hammer a long nail into wooden wedges from below in such a way that it goes right through and looks out from above by 10 - 15 mm. The wooden wedge itself is fixed to the base with an anchor.

As a result, when you finally insert the slab, it fits onto the nails protruding from the wedges and is firmly attached. The method is worthy of attention.

The only downside here is that before installation you need to carefully measure and check everything several times. Otherwise, in case of an error, almost everything will have to be done again, because the nails will no longer allow you to move or adjust the slab.

Conclusion

Now you know how to install a window sill on plastic windows. The photo and video in this article shows additional information on this topic. If you have any questions, leave them in the comments and let's talk.

PVC windows have proven themselves well and are very popular, while their installation is mainly included in the cost of the product, which cannot be said about the window sill slab. Therefore, let’s look at how to properly install a plastic window sill yourself.

In fact, the choice of window sills is quite large. They are made from wood, natural or, as mentioned above, from plastic. So why should you give preference to the latter option? Of course, you can purchase any other, but it is PVC that will have perfect combination pricing policy and quality.

Thus, although wooden ones are considered environmentally friendly and natural, they nevertheless have quite serious disadvantages, which has led to a decrease in their popularity. For example, they are very picky about care, afraid of various chemicals and abrasive materials, and paint coating must be updated at least once every three years. Besides, they are afraid high humidity, fire, and most quality products have very high cost. What about stone window sills, their price is also not affordable for everyone. And the installation is quite complicated, so it’s very difficult to do it on your own.

Deprived of all these features modern type PVC window sills. Let's take a closer look at all their advantages, and, of course, their disadvantages. The first is ease of operation. In principle, to return it to its original appearance, you just need to wash it clean water, but in the case of more serious pollution plastic is not afraid of exposure to chemicals. In addition, the installation of plastic window sills is very simple.

It is also impossible not to note the excellent strength characteristics of these products, their resistance to moisture, temperature changes, and fire. There is no need to worry about the fact that they may turn yellow when exposed to sunlight, this will not happen. Despite the fact that white specimens are mainly in demand, you can order a PVC window sill of absolutely any color. The only inconvenience is that you will need to wait a little until this product arrives in your city. And, by the way, their price is significantly lower than that of analogues made from natural stone or expensive wood, while modern plastic is also considered environmentally friendly.

The disadvantage is the likelihood that after just a few years various small cracks, creases and other defects may appear on the surface; however, with proper use, such problems arise many years later. You can still hear a theory about the dangers of plastic, however, this has not been confirmed by anything.

Before considering installation, it is worth making a choice, and for this you should know the entire range of such products. Products differ in the type of coating. The most common are window sill slabs covered with PVC film. They are characterized by not very good resistance to mechanical damage and thermal effects. In addition, over time they lose their appearance as they absorb dirt, dust and dyes, so they require careful care. But their main advantage is their low price.

The next type of material is laminated paper, which has excellent characteristics. This CPL coating, obtained by pressing paper sheets impregnated with melamine resins, is resistant to various mechanical influences, high temperatures, humidity, chemicals. Its only serious drawback is the impossibility of restoration.

But the option that has EPL coating can rightfully be classified as a premium class. This product not only has excellent strength characteristics (the surface is almost impossible to scratch), but it even has antistatic properties, so dust will have to be wiped off much less frequently than with its analogues. Also the window sill has the most different options designer execution, and it is also very pleasant to the touch. It will be velvety and warm, even if the room is quite cool.

How to install a plastic window sill - let's act

Having understood the types and features, you should pay attention to how to install a plastic window sill yourself.

How to install a plastic window sill - step by step diagram

Step 1: Measurements

So that the work goes easily and quickly, and the PVC plate fits harmoniously on seat, measurements must be taken correctly. First, we measure the depth of the window opening, or rather, its lower part, which our window sill will subsequently decorate. To this value you should add 12–17 cm, since the element itself should protrude by about 10 centimeters, and it will go under the window frame by about 2 cm. We add 10 cm to the total length, so that in the future it will go under the side slopes of 50 mm on each side.

Step 2: Surface Preparation

This stage is practically no different from others. preparatory work, so we take a brush and a vacuum cleaner in our hands and clean the surface from various debris, dirt, etc. Then we treat it with a primer and let it dry thoroughly. However, there are some individual points, for example, you should check how tightly the window itself is inserted. If there are gaps between the frame and the window opening, they should be eliminated immediately, otherwise heat loss in winter cannot be avoided.

Step 4: Direct installation

It's time to figure out how to attach a plastic window sill, and what we need for this. Basically, nothing special: wooden wedges or special pads that can be found in any hardware store, low-expansion foam and a construction gun. First, we do a fitting to adjust the height of the wedges. The fact is that you need a slight slope (no more than one centimeter) from the frame, then condensation and moisture will not flow into the junction of the window and the window sill, which could lead to the formation of fungus. We also check the level so that the slab does not have differences in length.

Then, having installed the window sill and finally checked all the slopes, we blow out the space between it and the surface of the opening with foam. Why should it have a low expansion coefficient? Yes, everything is very simple, otherwise she will simply lift the product. Next, we place a weight on the surface, a weight of 15 kg will be quite enough, and wait until everything dries. Now you can admire the result, because the installation of the plastic window sill with your own hands is completed.