How to install eurolining and what fittings are needed. Rules for fastening eurolining. We cover the wall with clapboard

Dwood- this is my favorite finishing material, created by nature itself, decorated with a scattering of knots or a uniquely beautiful texture. Durable, reliable, beautiful, environmentally friendly. Have a country house, be the master of your own own plot land is everyone's dream.

Wooden panels for installation on walls and ceilings today can be selected from various breeds wood, different shapes, sizes, thickness. No plastic can compare with natural wood.

We will look at the installation of such wooden panels today in our article. This is a lining that can be used for various purposes. It is suitable for cladding the interior of a room: walls, ceilings and even floors. But some types of lining are suitable for exterior finishing buildings.

How to fasten the lining so as not to spoil its appearance and at the same time maintain the reliability of the fasteners?

When you resort to the help of professional teams, questions about the methods of laying the lining disappear. But sometimes, in order to save money or out of interest, the owner decides to install the boards himself. I really hope this article will help you in your work.

Calculation of the squaring of the paneling on walls and ceilings is carried out using a simple formula: multiply the working (without tenon and groove) width of the panel by the length (we get the area of ​​one board). Next, take the area of ​​the wall and divide by the area of ​​one board. We add ten percent to the cut and find out the required volume of boards.


Photo 1. Installation of lining on the sheathing

First, you have to lay out the sheathing. Lathing is wooden blocks, onto which the panels are subsequently attached. If the panels are laid vertically, then the sheathing is mounted horizontally and vice versa. The bars, using a screwdriver and ordinary wood screws (it is better to use yellow, galvanized ones, rather than black ones), are evenly screwed to the wall. Markings and a building level will help you make it straight.

If you decide that you need sound insulation, then you can put insulation between the bars. The pitch of the sheathing will be fifty centimeters.

So, Ways to fasten the lining:

  • self-tapping screws into the front face of the board;
  • finishing nails;
  • self-tapping screws into a tenon or groove;
  • kleimer (hidden fastener).

How to nail euro-lining and stihl lining to the wall?

High-quality installation requires accuracy, a good eye and, of course, a tool. If you are using screws, you will need a screwdriver, and if you are using nails, then a regular hammer. It is better to choose special finishing nails without large heads, otherwise the visible part of the board will resemble wooden shed in the village.


Photo 2. Installation of lining in the face

When we use a hammer and a screwdriver, we make markings so that the nails or screws are at the same level. Laying lining open method It will look quite beautiful if you choose nails without heads and screws with a decorative bead head.

Personally, I don't like working with a hammer. Nails often damage panels and cause wood to splinter. The percentage of waste turns out to be higher, which is generally unacceptable when working with expensive breeds.

But I like a screwdriver and special screws with a cutter that doesn’t split the wood and doesn’t require pre-drilling a hole. For example, Essve lining screws are an excellent option with a decorative bead head and a structure designed specifically for wood. With such an arsenal, it’s very easy to correctly attach the lining – see for yourself.


Photo 3. Essve self-tapping screws for lining

Important! When installing into a layer, it is IMPORTANT to hammer in two nails or two self-tapping screws, so that the boards will be securely pressed and will not twist (bend) them.

How to attach Eurolining and Shtil lining to the ceiling and walls in a hidden way?

It’s very simple - use a galvanized plate: a clamp. We put the plate on the rear tenon of the panel and, using a screwdriver, screw it to the joist (sheathing) with the frequency of spaced bars. The approximate consumption of clamps is 100 pieces per five square meters, if you attach the lining to the sheathing installed after fifty centimeters.

The durability of this method of fastening the lining will be ensured by the use of reinforced clamps if the planks are made of larch or other heavy wood species. You can use the method of alternating clamps, reinforced-regular. Now you know how to properly attach eurolining and stilts to the wall and ceiling using clamps.


Photo 4. Fastening the lining to clamps

How to use screws to carry out the installation procedure in a hidden way?

This method is quite popular. The screw is screwed into the tenon, or less often (if you are working with eurolining) into the rear groove at an angle and overlapped with the next plank. Here it is important to choose a self-tapping screw design so that the thin wood does not split. Otherwise, there will again be a lot of waste.


Photo 5. Tenon mounting method

There should be a cutter at the tip of the screw, the head should be cone-shaped so that when laying the lining it (the head) can be “drowned” into the wood.


Photo 6. Method of mounting in a groove

So, we have addressed the main question in this article. Online store LesoExchange is ready to provide you with not only high-quality lumber and related products. Our consultants will tell you how to fasten lining and eurolining, and offer the services of professional teams of carpenters. Contact us. We are happy to help you.

Eurolining is a fairly popular finishing material in Russia. According to their own technical specifications it is ideal for any living space. This material is a lining made of wood, which is produced according to European standards. Eurolining is more resistant to moisture and at the same time easy to install. We also note that this material is environmentally friendly and allows you to hide unevenness on the walls without the use of putty and other materials. In addition, the lining makes the room visually larger. But how to properly attach eurolining to the wall and ceiling? Let's look at it in our article today.

Preparation of material

Before attaching the eurolining, you need to prepare the material. Although it is more resistant to moisture, it is still recommended to further protect the coating. For this it is processed by special means, which prevent rotting and mold development. After this treatment, the boards need to be dried and brought into the room where the finishing will be done. What is this for? The lining is brought in to adapt the material. This will prevent shrinkage. Also, before installing eurolining in a bathhouse, for example, you need to decide on the type of lumber. It is divided into several groups:

  • Premium It has an exceptionally smooth surface.
  • A. There may be up to two knots on each linear meter.
  • B. A couple of resin pockets and knots are allowed.
  • C. This is a low quality material with many through holes.

Lathing

Next comes the sheathing. It will serve as a frame for attaching the lining. This sheathing is made of wooden slats. They are directed in accordance with the chosen option for laying the material. When laying horizontally, vertical placement of the slats is required and vice versa.

Using self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws, you need to secure the boards tightly to the wall. It is necessary to maintain a step of half a meter. When installing each board, you should measure the structure with a building level. Experts recommend leaving a gap between the underside of the lining and the wall for ventilation. This will extend the service life. Some people maintain this gap for insulation. The latter is usually used mineral wool. The gap can be adjusted by the thickness of the board, which is used for the frame. The sheathing itself must also be treated with a protective antifungal agent. But this operation is not performed if, instead of slats, steel profiles. They are installed in the same way, on self-tapping screws.

As for the method of finishing the ceiling, most often experts use the frame method. Presented to the ceiling special requirements. The roof must be durable, without cracks or tears. Otherwise, the wood will rot. How to attach eurolining to the ceiling? The technology for laying this material is practically no different from walls, except that the joint between the latter and the ceiling is covered with a baguette. This way we will give the structure an aesthetic and complete look.

Types of fastenings

Before attaching eurolining to the wall in a bathhouse or in another room, you need to choose the method in which the material will be mounted to the sheathing. The lining itself looks like a plank. There is a groove on one side and a tenon on the other. The latter is inserted into the groove of the next board. There are several mounting methods:


But no matter what method is used, you should work carefully so as not to damage the board. It is fragile and may crack during installation. The lining must not be allowed to split.

Installation using self-tapping screws

Typically, this technology is used in the case of horizontal installation. Sheathing begins at the top or bottom of the wall. But it is important that the starting surface is as flat as possible. For fastening, a drill is used to make a hole in the board on the tenon side. The drill must have the same diameter as the self-tapping screw. As for the depth, it is enough to make a hole of 9 millimeters.

Installation is carried out according to the following scheme:

  • The board is applied to the place where it needs to be secured.
  • The correct position of the element is checked by the building level.
  • Using a drill, holes are drilled through the tenon into the sheathing.
  • Self-tapping screws are screwed into both edges.
  • The remaining (central) fasteners are only screwed in halfway. This way we will ensure an even fit of the lining. Next, all the screws are screwed in until they stop.

This is a simplified assembly method that can produce high-quality results.

Nuances

But there are also some disadvantages of the method. First of all, you need to know how to work with self-tapping screws. If handled carelessly, they can easily split the eurolining. Also, a similar fastening method is not used in the loggia, since the horizontal arrangement of the boards visually reduces the height of the already small room.

Staples

This method is more complex and requires experience with a tool such as a construction stapler. How to properly fasten the eurolining in this case? Here you need to start working from the top. So the lining is applied to the sheathing and its position is measured using a building level. Adjust the board according to it. Staples are driven into the tenon at an angle of 45 degrees. If you use the stapler correctly, there will be no difficulties in attaching the boards. The staple will go into the tree as much as possible.

Among the disadvantages this method It should be noted that there is a need for a special tool (in this case it is a stapler, which not everyone has in stock and is quite expensive). But at the end we get a secret fastening. Externally, the coating will appear clean, without foreign objects.

Nails

How to attach eurolining to the wall using this method? To do this you need to use galvanized nails. The installation method is practically the same as described above. However, the use of nails requires a hammer. It allows you to completely recess the cap. Without this tool, it will be difficult to drive the next board into the groove onto the nailed tenon.

What are the advantages this method? Here you get the most hidden fastening possible. The result is a beautiful wood surface. Sometimes the nails are installed not in the tenon, but on the board itself. But this method is not recommended for living rooms. This can only be done in utility rooms and other utility rooms.

We use a dowel

How to fasten eurolining using a dowel? You need to start installation only from the floor. The dowel represents wooden product cylindrical shape. It is used to hide technical finishing details. Today, a dowel can be used to cover the screws that secure the bottom plank from the floor. In this case, the starting eurolining is mounted with the tenon facing upward. It is fastened with self-tapping screws or staples so that the visible fasteners are covered by the groove of the next lining. As for the topmost board, it is also fixed and covered with a dowel. The latter is cut off or polished at the end of the work.

Among the disadvantages of this method, it is necessary to note the need to process the dowel after facing. This does not need to be done using other methods. Among the advantages is a smooth surface without metal inclusions. Experts also say that this method is the most practical among others.

We use clamps

This method is used for thin eurolining, since the clamps cannot withstand heavy loads. They are an improved steel bracket.

How does installation take place in this case? Installation must begin from the ceiling. The first lining is attached using self-tapping screws. Again, it is important not to split the part when screwing it in with a screwdriver. Then the board is closed with a dowel. The clamps are located on back side thorn. To go in the right direction, it is screwed to the wall. Then the new one is driven with a groove to the first board and this process is repeated, screwing the clamp.

What is the advantage of this method? Experts note that using this method, you can save on purchasing screws and nails. But you need to understand that this method is only relevant for lining with a small thickness and low weight. For high-strength models, this method is not suitable.

Let's sum it up

So, we found out how to attach eurolining. As you can see, there are several ways and each is unique in its own way. However, the most popular among all is the staple method.

How to fasten eurolining in the absence of special tools? You can use galvanized nails. This is especially true if a secret method is needed. When using metal sheathing, experts advise fastening the boards with self-tapping screws.

The lining is perfect for finishing ceilings, external and external cladding walls and even door trim. Regardless of the cladding object, the panels are fastened according to the same pattern. At the same time, you can easily handle the installation of the lining yourself. Study the basic instructions and get started.

First step

Prepare the lining for the upcoming installation. Soak the material with antiseptic and fire retardant. If desired, you can additionally treat the panels with stain or paint them in the desired color.

Let the treated lining dry and bring the material into the room to be finished. Leave it for a day. The wood adapts to environmental conditions, which eliminates the risk of further deformation.

Second step

Mount the sheathing on the surface to be finished. Buy slats or make them yourself from inch boards or 5x5 cm timber. Attach the sheathing elements in increments 10-20 mm smaller than the width of the future insulation. Fix it using screws or self-tapping screws. The fastening spacing is half a meter.

Control the evenness of the frame using special tools.

Third step

Cover the sheathing waterproofing material (polyethylene film, fastened construction stapler), place insulation in the cells (if required, optimal material– mineral wool, lay tightly, without gaps), and then cover the thermal insulation layer with a vapor barrier material (attach to the sheathing with a construction stapler).

Fourth step

Attach to wooden sheathing for insulation, a second lathing, intended directly for fixing the lining.

Attach beams or boards perpendicular to the future sheathing and at the same time perpendicular to the frame for insulating materials. That is, the method of attaching the sheathing (horizontally or vertically) needs to be determined for yourself even before attaching the first sheathing.

Treat the sheathing elements with an antiseptic.

There are several options for fastening the boards, and different fasteners can be used to mount the panels. Read the information provided and start finishing.

Mounting options

Choose the method of fixing the lining at your discretion. Factory lining initially has tongues and grooves that allow each subsequent cladding board to be fastened to the previous one.

To fix the lining, you can use staples, clamps, screws and nails. The fastening itself can be done covertly or openly.

As already noted, choose the fastening method at your discretion. The main thing is that the fixation is as reliable and high-quality as possible, and that the lining itself remains without damage. Sink the heads of nails and screws into the wood.

The most accurate and at the same time the most complex method of fixing the sheathing involves nailing directly into the grooves of the lining. This way the nails will be almost invisible.

Clippers are perfect for high-quality fixation of boards. Pick up suitable variety fasteners in accordance with the thickness of the grooves of your decorative boards. On one side of the clamp there are teeth - with them the fastener cuts into the grooves finishing material. On the other hand, the clamp must be nailed or screwed to the frame. As a rule, the set with clamps initially includes nails.

An option for fastening the lining is also available, which involves the use of special brackets. In this case it is used mounting gun. The bracket shoots a groove in the board and secures it to the frame. To perform such installation you need to have the appropriate skills.

The lining is treated with the necessary impregnations, the lathing is installed, the necessary insulating materials laid, installation method selected. Now all that remains is to attach the lining directly.

Decide on the optimal direction for placing the cladding elements - this has already been discussed earlier.

Focus on your preferences and features of the room. For example, horizontal decoration allows you to visually expand the room, making it visually more spacious.

When placed vertically, the lining will visually increase the height of the room.

First step

Proceed to attaching the lining. Start sheathing the walls from the ceiling to the floor. At the same time, try to direct the grooves downward - thanks to this, various debris will not get into them in the future, which will contribute to a significant increase in the service life of the skin.

Second step

Fix the clapboard sheet onto the sheathing bars. Use convenient fasteners. Insert the tenon of the next sheathing element into the groove of the fixed board. Secure it. Cover the entire planned space in this order.

Every 5-10 sheathing elements, be sure to check the evenness of the surface using a plumb line or level.

Third step

Having reached the last board of the lining, adjust it to the width with a regular hacksaw or other suitable tool. Nail the board and hide the gap under the decorative baseboard.

Fourth step

Clean the finishing surface from dust using a damp sponge. If you wish, you can finish painting the lining, but this is not necessary - the wood already has an attractive appearance and a beautiful shade.

If a special lining will be used for the cladding, which outwardly imitates a rounded log, start finishing with the groove facing up - this way you will hide the joints.

Additionally, the panels can be adjusted using a hammer, placing a piece of board under it - this way the finish will be fixed without gaps.

To fasten the “rounded” lining, use self-tapping screws. Twist the fasteners at 45 degrees. Place treated timber between the panels of such sheathing. This will create beautiful finish no gaps.

First step

Start attaching the clapboard boards from the corner. The first clapboard board in the corner must be secured with nails. The fastener caps will later be hidden under decorative corner. If you don’t want to buy a corner, simply bite off the caps using a side cutter.

Second step

Continue fixing the sheathing boards until the entire planned surface is covered. Work as with horizontal finishing, inserting one element into another and fixing it one by one.

Third step

When you reach the last board, cut it to size and nail it to the frame.

In the end, all that remains is to decorate the sheathing with special slats, plinths, and corners - these elements allow you to hide the joints and properly decorate the corners.

The ceiling is sheathed with the material in question in the same order as the walls. The only note is that the lining should begin to be attached from the window opening to the opposite wall. With this placement, the shadows between the cladding elements will be less noticeable.

Thus, in self-installation there is absolutely nothing complicated about the lining. To extend the service life of the cladding, re-treat it with an antiseptic and fire retardant every 2-3 years. Otherwise, follow the instructions and you will create the highest quality, durable and aesthetically pleasing finish.

Good luck!

Video - Installation of lining with your own hands

Wooden lining is beautiful and environmentally friendly. Ceilings and walls in baths, saunas, country houses and city apartments. U, and one of the most significant is ease of installation, if, of course, you used quality materials, therefore, you should find in advance a responsible supplier of fasteners for the lining and, of course, the lining itself. Today, clamps, nails and even staples are used to secure the material. What type of fasteners for lining will be most appropriate in each specific case?

No. 1. Features of lining installation

It is recommended to mount the lining on pre-installed frame. If the walls or ceiling have a perfectly flat surface, it is possible to install the lining without constructing a frame, but the lathing still helps to extend the service life of the base surface and allows you to create an additional layer for installation in the space between the lining and the main surface.

The lathing is attached in increments of 50-60 cm; it is imperative to use a level to achieve perfect flat surface and compensate for unevenness of the base ceiling or wall. The frame can be made of metal profile or timber. When it comes to wooden lining, then it is better to choose timber. It's all about the ability of wood to absorb and release moisture, changing in volume. The lining and timber will react in a similar way, but the metal does not change in volume, and if the profile is rigidly fixed to the surface, the lining may move. Of course, this risk remains when using wooden frame, but still to a lesser extent.

Heat-insulating material can be laid between the sheathing bars, which is important not only for residential buildings, but especially for saunas.

You can install the lining in one of the following ways:


The direction of the sheathing bars will be perpendicular to the direction of the lining, this goes without saying.

No. 2. Types of fasteners for lining

Traditional ways execute several lining fasteners:

Regardless of what type of fastening is chosen, it is recommended to mount the first and last boards using nails with small heads - they can be easily recessed into the body of the lining. Attach the lining first to the middle beam, then to the two outer ones, carefully controlling verticality or horizontality. Then it is attached to the intermediate bars.

No. 3. Fastening the lining using clamps

Claypers allow you to install the lining while completely maintaining its integrity. They represent metal plates with tongue and holes. The tongue is designed to hold the lining, and thanks to the holes, the clamp is attached to the frame. Such simple, but at the same time ingenious, fasteners allow for hidden fixation of the lining - no fasteners will be visible from the outside. At the same time, the wood is protected from cracks that may appear when nails are driven into it, and the entire installation process is quite simple.

The main difference between all clampers on the market is tongue height. The choice of this parameter depends on what type of lining will be installed: for eurolining, the necessary brackets are with a tongue 4 mm high, for block-house lining - 6 mm. As for the material, clamps are made mainly from galvanized iron and steel. Consumption This fastener depends on many factors, but on average, about 20 clamps are needed per 1 m 2 of lining.

The sequence of work is as follows:

The boards must be installed tightly to each other, leaving no visible gaps. The last board will most likely have to be cut to fit the width. In baths and saunas, it is recommended to retreat 2-3 cm from the ceiling and floor so that the wood can easily expand.

The clamps provide detachable fastening, so if something happens, the lining can be easily dismantled and the covering can be assembled in a new place.

No. 4. Fastening the lining with nails

Using the help to secure the lining is the easiest and fastest way, because there is no need to use any intermediate fastenings, but there is a risk of splitting the board, so you should be prepared for a certain amount of scrap. For fastening, nails 5-6 cm long are used, in increments of 25-30 cm, so you will need quite a lot of fastening material.

Usually nails driven into the groove at an angle of 45 degrees. To reduce the likelihood of damage to the lining, the nail is carefully placed in the right place using a hammer, and then hammered in with a blunt hammer. Alternative option– pre-drill holes. During installation, the head of the nail must be thoroughly recessed into the wood so that the next element of the lining can be easily inserted into the groove.

It is allowed to drive a nail at a right angle into the tongue.

No. 5. Fastening the lining with a stapler

This is a variation on the theme of the previous method: instead of nails and a hammer, they use a construction stapler, which has enough power to drive the staple into the lining. This device makes the job much easier, but requires some skill, so it’s better to practice first. If everything is done correctly, the bracket will fit tightly into the wood without interfering with the installation of the next lining element. The stapler can also be used when fastening with clamps.

No. 6. Through fastening of the lining with self-tapping screws

Through mount is usually used for installation last boards linings. This is also how they attach the lining in steam rooms and saunas. In this case fastener It does not enter the tenon, but passes through the entire lining. It is quite reliable and durable way installation, but if we are talking about using it in a bathhouse, then the wood must be coated and do not forget to renew it every three months.

Holes are first made in the boards, and then fasteners are screwed in, which should go as deep as possible. To cover the resulting hole, wooden pins are used, however, over time, all attachment points can become noticeable, no matter how carefully and regularly the protective agents are applied.

This method has one interesting variation. Some experts hammer nails into the sheathing, but not to their full length, so that clapboard can be placed on them in the future. The length of the protruding elements should be less than the thickness of the lining. The nail heads are bitten off, and the clapboard panels are carefully hammered onto the protruding nails using a mallet. The result is an aesthetic surface.

Over the years of working with lining, specialists have accumulated considerable experience and are ready to share advice:

The process of attaching the lining cannot be called too difficult, but it still requires accuracy, attentiveness and certain skills, so if you are not completely confident in your abilities, it is better to immediately call professionals for help and not spoil the material.

In order to easily, reliably and quickly carry out the installation and installation of wood, you need to know how and with what help it is necessary to produce certain renovation work. It all depends on what kind of room you plan to cover.

Lining- This building material, very convenient and reliable for installation. Each board has a special groove on one side and a protrusion on the other. And as a result of their fastening, a reliable lock is obtained.

After studying our article, you will be able to complete it quite easily.

Required Tools

Tools and building materials you will need for repairs: wooden slats(20x40 mm); self-tapping screws and dowel-nails; building level; ; mineral wool; ; mounting stapler; polypropylene twine; the lining itself; clamps; hammer; baseboards; finishing nails and bioprotective special composition.

Stages of preparatory work

We begin work with installation. To do this you will need 20x40 mm wooden slats, self-tapping screws and dowel-nails, a building level and. The slats must be fixed to the wall, while positioning them strictly perpendicular to the subsequent direction of the lining. Before fastening, check the evenness of the wall surface using a building level. If the wall is not completely level, place a piece under the batten and check for evenness again.


Installation of sheathing under the lining

The pitch of the slats is no more than 50 cm. The bottom rail is attached at a distance of 5 cm from the floor. The top rail is installed at the level of fastening parts and ceiling elements. They also attach slats in all corners and around windows and doors.

Important point, everyone. construction work The installation of electrical wiring should be carried out before installing the sheathing, since after the installation is completed and the lining is installed, this will simply be impossible to do.

After installing the sheathing, we proceed to heat and. To do this, you will need thermal insulation building material (), waterproofing building material (), an installation stapler and polypropylene twine. You can install the vapor barrier before installing the sheathing, and then put a second layer on top after filling it with mineral wool.


When assembling and installing a vapor barrier, attach it with the rough side to the insulation. or make a vapor barrier with an overlap of 10 cm and be sure to secure the joints with tape along the entire length. The waterproofing is fastened using a mounting stapler in 15 cm increments. To prevent the mineral wool from slipping or deforming over time, it must be secured with polypropylene twine. The polypropylene twine is also fastened using a mounting stapler.

Installation and installation of lining

Installation and installation of lining. For this work you will need panels, finishing nails, a building level, a hammer and a small piece of lining. Before proceeding with installation and installation, it is necessary for the unpacked lining to lie for some time in the room in which it will be installed (at least 48 hours). Installation of the first wood panel always start from the corner. Attach to the sheathing using finishing nails or clamps. If you use clamps during installation, then in the future the lining can be dismantled quite easily by yourself. After which you can use this material for installation and installation in any other place.

Hidden fastening of lining with nails

After installing the first panel and securing it, insert the tongue of the second panel into the groove and secure it again. The second and subsequent linings will be quite difficult to insert by hand, most likely they will be difficult to enter. To make this process easier, there is no need to purchase special tool. You can do it yourself. To do this, take a small piece of sawn-off wooden panel and, inserting it with a comb into the groove of the subsequent installed lining, gently tap it with a hammer. This must be done along the entire length of the lining until it fits tightly enough. Additionally, you can secure the boards with nails at the top and bottom.

Measure every sixth board with a building level to ensure installation without deviations. Between the paneling and load-bearing wall there must be a gap of at least 2 cm. This is necessary so that in the future the wooden wall remains perfectly level without any serious deviations.

After we have installed all the panels, we begin installing the fittings. At the penultimate stage, the following tools and parts will be needed: a hammer, plinth, finishing nails and a dumbbell. We continue to build with our own hands. In order for the lining to take on a beautiful, well-maintained appearance, it is necessary to attach all the corner joints and cover all the gaps between the ceiling and the floor. For corner joints, use a narrow plinth; for lower and upper gaps, you must use a plinth with dimensions that close these gaps. The plinth is secured using finishing nails.

Wall treatment

And the final stage is processing the walls. The final and very important repair procedure remains: processing all mounted wooden walls fire-bioprotective special composition or . This must be done at least three times every subsequent day. After this treatment, your walls will serve you for a very long time. IN winter time It will be very warm here, and cool in the summer.

This completes the installation and installation of the lining! We hope that thanks to our article you will not have any difficulties with installing and assembling the lining with your own hands! Good luck with your renovation!