Proper splicing of rafters along the length guarantees the safety of the system in various operating conditions.

Using the methods outlined in the article for merging, you can build any roof, even the most complex design, spending a minimum of money on materials and using standard size timber.

The nuances of lengthening roofing lumber

Main frame element gable roof- the rafters themselves, or, as roofers call them, rafter legs.

The rafters are secured in the desired position using a system of spacers, purlins, tie-downs and braces.

For the construction of rafter frames that span large spaces between walls, and for the construction of roofs complex shape it is necessary to use timber of atypical sizes.

If you don’t have timber or other lumber at hand the right size, then you have to splice the elements until their total length reaches the required value.

Standard size material becomes thicker as the length increases - this is not always convenient or technologically advanced.

Splicing makes it possible to increase the length of rafter elements without changing their thickness and thus achieve design parameters.

The order of splicing rafters along the length that can be used mainly depends on the preferences of the master.

All methods are equally reliable and allow you to obtain rafters of given geometric and physical parameters.

Before you start joining the rafters, you need to know a little about physical properties materials used on different areas rafter structure.

Design details located in its different parts, you have to endure mechanical loads of varying intensity.

In some nodes, it is generally impossible to use longitudinal splicing of rafters, since spliced ​​lumber does not have the strength of solid lumber.

Moreover, in certain places it is advisable to strengthen even solid lumber with additional parts.

In any case, after splicing, the rafter legs and the entire roof frame must be guaranteed to be protected from damage.

As a rule, splicing rafters lengthwise reduces the rigidity of the structure, since a kind of plastic hinge is formed at the splice site.

So that the reduction in rigidity affects the strength as little as possible rafter system, splicing of rafters must be carried out at the points of least bending load. Such places in the rafter system are located close to the supports.

The main rule when merging in length is the following - the junction of lumber should not be located from the support at a distance greater than 15% of the span.

In addition, the place where lumber joins along the length depends on what part of the rafter frame they will subsequently be used as.

When combining lumber used for the construction of purlins, it is necessary to ensure the same strength of the future part along the entire length.

Another task arises when splicing the ridge girder. Here a certain amount of deflection will be required, since only in this case the height of the ridge strip will be the same along its entire length.

The procedure for splicing rafters

In the construction business, there are several ways to join timber together lengthwise. The choice of splicing technique is influenced by the distance between the rafters and the available fastening and building materials.

The most in a fast way joining timber and thus increasing their length is joining.

To join, the ends of both boards or beams must be cut at an angle of 90 degrees.

The ends must fit very precisely against each other - this will ensure maximum strength of the rafters after splicing.

On both sides of the joint, apply wooden planks and secure them with nails, driving in fasteners in a diagonal order.

Instead of wooden overlays, you can use metal plates with pre-drilled holes in them in a checkerboard pattern.

The next method that can be used to splice rafters is the oblique cutting method. This method is mainly used for joining square lumber.

The ends of the two beams must be cut at an angle of 45 degrees. The length of the cut should be twice the width of the beam.

Sharp corners on both parts are ground at an angle of 90 degrees, the depth of the resulting areas should be 15% of the height of the section. The platforms are made similarly at the other end of the oblique cut.

Having connected both elements, secure the joint with a bolt, screwing it into the middle of the joint. The round opening for the bolt has to be made in advance.

In this case, it is important that the diameter of the hole is equal to the diameter of the fastener or is slightly smaller - then there will be no backlash, and the bolt will hold firmly in the rafter.

The easiest way to join lamellas is to use the overlap method. Here, the carpenter does not require special precision and skill, since the boards are connected with an overlap of 100 cm.

Nails are driven in in a chaotic manner over the entire overlap area. Bolts and studs are sometimes used instead of nails.

When using such fasteners, you have to pre-drill holes in the boards, but the use of bolts and studs instead of nails increases the reliability of the structure.

When splicing rafters, we must not forget that the connection point should be in the least loaded area of ​​the rafter structure.

Joint lumber cannot be used for installation as diagonal rafters, since this structural element has to withstand increased loads.

At the same time, it should be noted that the strength of legs made from jointed lumber can exceed the strength of solid boards or beams.

Double and combined rafters

It is necessary to distinguish fusion from extension. Splicing is an increase in the original length of lumber, extension is an increase in diameter.

There are ways to simultaneously increase both the length and diameter of the rafters. Such structures include paired and composite rafters.

Double and combined rafters are elongated beams made from boards and used for specific purposes. To elongate in this case, use the overlap method.

Paired rafters are connected from several edged boards, sewing them in a diagonal order with nails.

To increase the length of a paired rafter, it is connected to a similar paired structure.

The lumber in the joint must overlap each other with an overlap of at least 100 centimeters.

This connection allows you to create a reliable beam from two rows of boards connected to each other with an overlap.

Connections should be placed diagonally so that the joints with reverse side were applied to whole parts of the boards.

Paired rafters are not inferior in reliability to monolithic timber, which makes it possible to assemble the frame of hip and half-hip roofs from them.

Combined legs are made from three boards. In this case, between two edged boards a third of equal length and thickness is laid.

The additional board fits into the rafter gap at least one meter, but usually, for greater reliability, it is inserted a third of its length.

The result is a rafter consisting of two planks on one side, and one on the other side. All joints are stitched with nails in a diagonal sequence or fastened with self-tapping screws.

The gap between the two planks is filled with inserts from scraps of timber and secured with nails in a random order.

Combined rafters are installed with the thin side on ridge run, and the thick one - on the support beam.

Combined rafters allow you to save material and achieve the desired diameter depending on the load on the rafter leg.

Forked lower part rafter leg makes it possible to easily connect the rafter to the support beam.

Composite rafters - less robust design than paired ones, they can only be used for the construction pitched roofs. They are not used in hip roof frames.

If during the work you need to lengthen or widen the rafters, then it is not necessary to call specialists.

It is enough to use one of the methods proposed in the article, and in the end you will get a structure that is not inferior in strength to a roof, the rafter system of which consists of solid boards and bars.

Key stage of construction wooden log house— connection of timber and logs into a common spatial structure.

Without knowing what docking methods need to be used, you shouldn’t even take on this work.

We will look at the main types of existing connections, and also evaluate the advantages and disadvantages of each of them. This will help the novice craftsman feel more confident when assembling crowns wooden building.

Obviously, joining timber during construction is necessary in two cases:

• For securely tying the corners of the house
• For building up logs or beams

These operations can be performed in dozens different ways, invented by Russian architects over hundreds of years. If we begin to consider all existing connection nodes at once, we will quickly get confused in the complex terminology and nuances of cutting. Therefore, for your information, we will tell you in detail only about the most common types of docking.

Types of corner joints

In modern wood construction Two types of corner joints are used:

• With the rest. The remainder is the end of a log or beam that protrudes outward from the corner of the frame. The advantage of this type of corner connection is best protection seams from blowing;
• Without a trace. The crowns of the log house do not protrude beyond the corners of the house.

Corner joints of logs are performed in almost the same way as joining beams. In this case, the landing nest in the lower log is most often made not flat, but semicircular, resembling a cup. That's why this method docking was named cuttings "into the bowl".

The rectangular shape of the timber does not require a complex cup-shaped joint.

Joining the beams at the corners of the house is done in two ways:

• Single-sided (wood floor)
• Double-sided (in red)

One-sided timber joint is easy to perform, since it is enough to make only one vertical groove here.

Half a tree this type connections are called because the depth of the cut or notch is ½ of the height of the beam or log.

Listing the main ways to connect timber in the corners of a house, you need to say a few words about the two-sided method felling "to the point". It is more complicated than one-sided joining of crowns, since vertical cuts have to be made not only on the top, but also on the bottom side of the beams.

After this, the wood between the cuts is cut out, leaving smooth horizontal landing areas. By laying the beams on top of each other, we get a strong joint with two flat seams.

Reliable joining of logs can also be done using the “snap” method.. However, most often specialists use a “bowl” joint, which is optimally suited for the round shape of the log.

The double-sided “bowl” connection and the semicircular “bowl” require highly qualified carpenters. Here you need to work accurately and carefully. Any mistake with the depth of cut or cutting out the groove can lead to a violation of the geometry and a decrease in the strength of the joint.

To protect the corner from blowing, wooden house building professionals use joining the timber “in the fat tail”. In essence, this is a modified double-sided “bucket” connection, in which a longitudinal protrusion is cut out on the seating surface. It not only covers the joint from blowing, but also increases the strength of the contact area.

Considering the types of connections between logs and beams, we note the very popular chopping method "in the paw". It is quite simple to implement and at the same time allows you to obtain a fairly strong and airtight joint.

Butt connection

For beginners the most simple option is the connection of profiled timber using the butt method. The ends of the beams are cut evenly and fixed at the corners using steel brackets or plates with spikes.

However, this method The joining of timber cannot be called very durable and airtight. Therefore, it is better to use it for non-residential outbuildings.

To strengthen corners assembled end-to-end, dowels are often used - vertical rods made of hard wood (oak, birch, hornbeam).

The optimal joining option is the “warm corner” method, also called a tenon joint. At the end of the beam, an internal protrusion-spike is cut out, which protects the seam from blowing and increases the strength of the corner.

A common corner connection method is the dovetail.. It differs from the root tenon in its trapezoidal shape, which makes the contact area of ​​the beams denser and more rigid.

Longitudinal connection of timber and logs

In addition to reliable tying of the corners of a wooden building, it is very important to ensure high-quality longitudinal joining timber or logs that make up the crowns. For timber, extensions are most often used using a direct or overlay lock. To further strengthen the overhead joint, vertical dowels or dowels are used.

In addition, it is convenient to make the longitudinal connection of the crowns “half a tree”, cutting off part of the end of the beams being connected. To increase the rigidity of the joint in the contact area, you need to install two dowel pins.

Connection with root tenon It is also quite acceptable for longitudinal extension of beams.

Good resistance to longitudinal tensile forces arising during drying wooden crowns, a combined half-tree joint with a dovetail on the upper protrusion.

If such cutting seems too complicated to you, then make a longitudinal connection of the crowns with a regular dovetail, which reliably fixes the timber being built up and the log.

T-shaped types of connections between timber and logs

This type of joining is used in places where internal timber and log partitions adjoin external wall. Here one of three options can be implemented:

1. Key groove on the main tenon

2. Straight groove on the main tenon

3. The already familiar “dovetail”

Useful video

The rafter system is the most complex and one of the most important elements of the house; the comfort and operating time of the building largely depend on the correctness of its construction. Calculation and design of the rafter system should only be done by experienced builders or engineers with special training.

Designing a wooden rafter system is much more difficult than any metal structures. Why? In nature, there are no two boards with absolutely identical strength indicators; this parameter is influenced by many factors.

The metal has the same properties, which depend only on the grade of steel. The calculations will be accurate, the error will be minimal. With wood everything is much more complicated. In order to minimize the risk of system destruction, it is necessary to provide a large safety margin. Most decisions are made directly by the builders on site after assessing the condition of the lumber and taking into account the design features. Practical experience is very important.

Why do you need to splice rafters?

There are several reasons why rafters need to be spliced.

1. Roof length exceeds standard lumber length. The standard length of the boards does not exceed six meters. If the slope is large, the boards will have to be lengthened.
2. During construction there is a lot left good boards 3–4 m long. To reduce the estimated cost of the building and reduce the amount of unproductive waste, these pieces can be used to make rafters, having previously spliced ​​them together.

Important. It must be remembered that the strength of spliced ​​rafters is always lower than that of whole rafters. You should try to ensure that the splice point is located as close as possible to the vertical stops.

Splicing methods

There are several ways to splice, there is definitely no better or worse. Craftsmen make decisions taking into account their skills and the specific location of the joint.

Table. Methods of splicing rafters.

Splicing method	Brief description of the technology
	It is used on boards with a thickness of at least 35 mm. A rather complex method that requires practical experience in carpentry. In terms of strength, the connection is the weakest of all existing ones. The advantage is saving lumber. In practice, it is used very rarely on construction sites.
	The length of the rafter legs is increased with the help of an overlay. The cover can be wooden or metal. If the length of two sections of boards is not sufficient according to the parameters of the rafter system, then this method allows you to increase them. Butt joints have the highest bending strength and are widely used during the construction of various structures.
	Overlapping. Two boards are fixed with an overlap. The simplest method is in the middle in terms of strength. Disadvantage - the total length of the two boards must be greater than the design length of the rafter leg.

In this article we will look at the two most simple and reliable splicing methods: butt and overlap. There is no point in touching the oblique cut; it is almost never used due to a large number of shortcomings.

Requirements of building codes and regulations for splicing rafters

Inept splicing of rafters along the length can not only sharply reduce their resistance to bending loads, but also cause complete destruction of the structure. The consequences of this situation are very sad. Building regulations provide certain patterns when choosing the size of fasteners, places of installation and length of linings. The data is based on many years of practical experience.

Spliced ​​rafters will be much stronger if metal pins, rather than nails, are used to connect them. The instructions will help you make your own connection calculations. The advantage of the method is its versatility; it can be used to solve problems not only with lengthening rafters, but also with building up other roof elements. Specialized companies performed rough calculations and collected the data in a table, but it indicates only the minimum acceptable parameters.

1. Diameter and length of studs. In all cases, the diameter of the studs must be ≥ 8 mm. Thinner ones do not have sufficient strength and are not recommended to be used. Why? IN metal connections The diameter of the studs is calculated based on tensile forces. During contraction metal surfaces They are pressed together so tightly that they are held together by friction. In wooden structures, the pin works in bending. Individual boards cannot be pulled together with great force; the washers fall into the board. In addition, as the relative humidity changes, the thickness of the boards changes, thereby reducing the tightening force. Bending pins must be large. The specific diameter of the stud must be determined using the formula d w = 0.25×S, where S is the thickness of the board. For example, for a board 40 mm thick, the pin diameter should be 10 mm. Although this is all quite relative, you need to keep in mind the specific loads, and they depend on many factors.

   

2. Board overlap length. This parameter should always be four times the width of the boards. If the width of the rafters is 30 cm, then the length of the overlap cannot be less than 1.2 m. We have already mentioned that the specific decision is made by the master taking into account the condition of the lumber, the angle of inclination of the rafters, the distance between them, and weight roofing materials and climatic zone of the building location. All these parameters have a great influence on the stability of the rafter system.

   

3. Stud hole spacing. It is recommended to fix the fasteners at a distance of at least seven stud diameters; the distance from the edge of the board should be at least three diameters. These are minimum values; in practice, it is recommended to increase them. But it all depends on the width of the board. By increasing the distance from the edge, you cannot reduce the distance between the rows of studs too much.

   

   

4. Number of tie rods. There are quite complex formulas, but in practice they are not used. Craftsmen install two rows of studs, taking into account the distance between them, the holes are arranged in a checkerboard pattern.

Practical advice. To increase the bending strength of the spliced ​​rafters, the holes of the studs should not be located on the same line; they should be shifted by at least one diameter.

Butt splicing with boards

It is much more convenient to do the work on the ground; prepare a flat area. Place the bars on the ground - the rafters will have to be trimmed, you need clearance for circular saw. Before splicing, find out exactly the length of the rafters. You need to measure it on the building; use any thin long boards, rope or construction tape. If there is an error of a few centimeters, no problem. When connecting the rafter legs on the roof, this error is eliminated without problems.

Step 1. Place one board on the bars, cut the end exactly at a right angle. It is better to cut with a hand-held electric circular saw.

Important. Follow the safety rules, this is a high-speed and very dangerous tool. Never remove the saw's factory safety features or turn off the electrical overload relays.

Rafter boards are quite heavy; when cutting, position them so that they do not pinch the saw blade or break prematurely during cutting. Prepare the second board in the same way. Make sure that the cut is only at a right angle. The ends of the spliced ​​boards should fit tightly against each other over the entire surface; this is necessary to increase the strength of the spliced ​​rafters. The fact is that even if the connection of the studs is loosened, the ends during bending will rest against each other along the entire length of the cut and hold the load. Studs and overhead boards will only keep the structure from creeping along its length.

Step 2. Place two prepared rafter boards side by side. Prepare a board for the overlay. We have already mentioned that its length should be approximately four times the width of the board. If the roof slopes have a slight slope, the distance between the rafters is large, and the roof will be insulated mineral wool, then the bending loads increase significantly. Accordingly, the length of the board for splicing must be increased.

Step 3. Place the overlay on two adjacent boards for the joint. Quite often, the thickness and width of boards, even from the same batch, differ by several millimeters. If this is the case, then level the boards on the side to which the sheathing will be nailed.

Practical advice. The science of strength of materials says that thinner material, the greater its resistance to bending along a thin plane. This means that, for example, five boards placed side by side, each 1 cm thick, can withstand a significantly greater load than one board 5 cm thick. Conclusion - for splicing it is not at all necessary to cut thick expensive materials; you can use several thin pieces of the required length. There are enough such pieces at any construction site.

Step 4. Drill holes for the studs in a checkerboard pattern and at standardized distances. To ensure that the individual elements do not move while drilling holes, they need to be temporarily secured to each other. Use long and thin screws for these purposes; nailing is not recommended. They cut or tear the wood fibers, and the strength of the board is slightly reduced. Self-tapping screws do not cut the fibers, but push them apart; after unscrewing, the boards almost completely restore their original strength characteristics.

Step 5. Drill holes, do not place them on the same line, otherwise the boards may crack during use.

You may find recommendations to separate the boards after drilling the holes and lay jute between them to prevent the appearance of cold bridges. This is not only wasted work, but also harmful. Why? Firstly, no cold bridges arise at the splice points; on the contrary, they have the greatest thickness and, accordingly, the lowest thermal conductivity. But even if they appear, there will be no negative consequences it won’t, it’s a roof truss system, not room window or a door. Secondly, jute reduces the friction force between the splice elements, and this has a very negative effect on their strength. Thirdly, if condensation gets on the material, which is very likely, then it will take a very long time to remove moisture from it. What are the consequences of prolonged contact? wooden structures There is no need to tell about moisture.

Step 6. Insert the studs into the prepared holes, put washers on both sides and tighten firmly with nuts. It is recommended to tighten until the washers are pressed into the wood. The excess length of the studs can be cut off using a cylindrical grinder with a metal disc.

All other rafters are spliced ​​in the same way.

Overlapping splicing

This connection is easier to make, but under one condition - the total length of the two boards allows it; it must be greater than the length of the rafter leg by the amount of overlap.

If you have low quality lumber, then before starting work it is recommended to lay it out on flat surface and do an audit. For long sections of spliced ​​rafters, choose straight ones, and for segments use curves. Although for the rafter system it is strongly recommended to buy only quality materials, this is not an architectural element of a building on which you can save.

Step 1. Select the boards and place them on top of the beams. If you want, you can level the ends with a circular saw; if you don’t want to, don’t level them. The condition of the ends does not in any way affect the strength of the overlap splice.

Step 2. Lay the boards on top of each other, adjust the length of the joint and the overall size of the rafters.

Practical advice. The boards must lie strictly parallel to each other. Due to the fact that the upper one is raised above the lower one by the thickness of the material, stands made from pieces should be placed under it and the bars. The thickness of the segments should be equal to the thickness of the bottom board.

Step 3. Align the boards along one of the edges and temporarily fasten them with self-tapping screws. Drill holes, install studs, washers and tighten nuts.

Butt splicing with plywood

One of the methods of splicing rafters helps to save boards and rationally use waste of various lumber. In this case, cuttings of sheet plywood one centimeter thick are used.

Step 1. Lay the rafter boards evenly on the site, close the ends, pay attention to the parallelism of the side edges. The boards should be extremely equal in thickness, the ends should be cut exactly at right angles.

Step 2. Using a brush, generously coat the surface with PVA glue.

Step 3. Place the prepared piece of plywood at the joint and press it firmly with clamps. While fixing, make sure that the plywood does not move from its original location.

Step 4. Using long, strong self-tapping screws in a staggered pattern, screw the plywood to the boards. The length of the screws should be 1–2 times shorter than the total thickness of the boards and plywood; their ends cannot protrude from the reverse side. Be sure to place washers under the screws large diameter. Before tightening the screws, drill holes in the rafters. Their diameter should be 2–3 mm less than the diameter of the threaded part of the hardware.

Step 5. Turn the board over, place it under the ends of the stand, they should not hang in the air. Carefully remove all installed clamps one by one.

Step 6. Apply glue to the surfaces and place a second piece of plywood on them. Clamp it again with clamps.

Step 7 Tighten the screws with great force.

Important. When tightening the screws, make sure that they are not positioned against each other. The displacement must be at least three centimeters.

Step 8 Remove the clamps. To strengthen the splice assembly, tighten it with through pins. They should be placed in the same way as for ordinary butt splicing.

Practical advice. The holes for the studs should be 0.5–1.0 mm smaller than the diameter of the stud. There are times when it is impossible to accurately select the diameter of a drill bit for wood. Then it is recommended to use a drill of a slightly smaller diameter, let the pin go in with a fairly large force.

During its hammering, the first few turns of the thread are crushed by strong blows of the hammer, which makes it very difficult to screw on the nut. To avoid problems, tighten the nuts before driving in the stud; now let the thread on the end kink; it is no longer needed. Before installing the rafters in place, check that the glue is dry. In good weather, it takes about 24 hours for it to completely harden.

The final touch is applying glue

Important. If, when splicing the rafters along the length of the boards, the nuts were tightened until the washer was sunk into the wood, then this cannot be done with plywood. Carefully control the pressing force, do not damage the plywood veneer.

How to correctly hammer nails into rafters when splicing

It is not always possible and necessary to splice individual rafter elements using studs; sometimes it is easier to do this with ordinary smooth nails. But you need to be able to hammer them in correctly, otherwise over time the compression force of the boards will decrease significantly. The length of the nail should be 2.5–3 cm greater than the thickness of the rafter at the junction.

How to correctly drive nails to connect loaded or critical wooden structures?

Step 1. Under small angle drive the nail into the boards, but not all the way. It is necessary that the tip protrudes from the back side by about one centimeter.

Step 2. On the back side of the rafter, bend the nail at a right angle with a hammer.

Step 3. Hammer the nail about one more centimeter. Bend the end again, the bend angle should now be much less than 90°. The more you bend it, the more secure the final fixation will be.

Step 4. Now you can drive the nail head all the way in. On the reverse side, bend the protruding part until the sharp end is completely inserted into the board. Remember that the point where the body of the nail exits and the point where its tip is driven in should not lie on the same line.

This technology completely eliminates the independent weakening of the pressing force.

It has already been mentioned that the bending strength of the rafters at the splice is always less than that of the whole element. If possible try to place this node as close as possible to the ridge, Mauerlat or various spacers. Such precautions minimize the risks of mechanical destruction of the rafter leg. If this possibility is not available for one reason or another, then it is not recommended to place the stop under the splice at a distance of more than 15% of the leg length from either end.

Never use black self-tapping screws for connections.. This metal has two significant drawbacks. The first is that it quickly oxidizes and loses its original strength. Secondly, the manufacturing technology of such self-tapping screws involves hardening. When the permissible load is exceeded, hardened screws do not stretch, but burst. During the operation of the roof, the relative humidity of wooden structures changes, and the thickness of the boards fluctuates accordingly. And this can significantly increase the tensile force of the self-tapping screw; it will not withstand it and will crack.

Do not overdo it with the amount of hardware. If there are too many of them, then the holes will significantly reduce the strength of the parts being connected, as a result you will get reverse effect, the build-up will not intensify, but weaken.

Video - Splicing rafters along the length

High-quality connection of beams to each other during the construction of a house is of no small importance. The reliability of the entire structure and the preservation of heat in the house largely depend on the method and accuracy of the connection.

The strength and thermal insulation characteristics future design.

Construction wooden houses With new technologies for manufacturing timber, it has become rapidly gaining popularity. Ecologically pure material with good thermal conductivity and attractive appearance, it is ideal for the construction of residential buildings and other buildings in any region of our country.

The most important stage in the construction of wooden houses is the jointing of the beams with each other. Highly specialized equipment for the manufacture of tenons and grooves is used only in large industries, due to high cost And large sizes. However, connections of profiled timber can be made with your own hands.

Necessary tool for making connections

Figure 1. Types of timber connections.

At self-production connections, you can use conventional hand-powered tools available from the developer or specialists, such as:

1. Chainsaw with petrol or electric drive. You can use manual circular saw with an electric drive, but the maximum permissible cutting depth of the device must be more than half a tree.
2. Set of chisels. In commercial enterprises it is not always possible to find a tool of the required length and strength, so it is advisable to make it yourself or order it from a blacksmith.
3. Hammer, mallet, axe.

In the old days, cutting corners was done with a single axe, but it was time-consuming. Modern instrument with various types drive will significantly facilitate work and reduce time spent on work.

Basic methods of connecting timber during installation

At the point of connection, you need to choose a specific method that guarantees optimal strength and tightness of the joint. Corner connections can be made:

• with ends protruding beyond the main dimensions;
• without protrusions;
• butt laying, when the beams do not overlap each other;
• T-shaped connection for walls inside the building.

Figure 2. Construction of a rectangular main tenon.

The technology of the method with a remainder provides best quality corner connection, but requires more material consumption. Each beam produces from 0.4 to 0.6 meters of wasted length. With a height of 15 crowns, the total unused length will be from 20 to 36 m. With a beam length of 4 m, this will amount to from 5 to 9 additional products. You can see the corner connection with protruding parts in Fig. 1a.

The first crown in a building is usually placed at the junction with keyway with a specific name for the joint - “oblo”. This method is used for any method of laying material, with or without protrusions. The sampling is performed to half the thickness of the product. The articulation of the corners of the house without protrusions can be seen in Fig. 1b. To prevent displacement in the main planes, subsequent crowns must be joined using the “root tenons” type with the installation of dowels. The design of a rectangular main tenon is shown in Fig. 2.

Nagel represents wooden block round section 25 cm long and about 30 mm thick. In the beam laid on the cushioning material, you need to drill a hole with a depth exceeding the length of the dowel by 20-40 mm, and hammer the part into it.

Butt jointing of corners is the most in a simple way. The quality of such joints is extremely low; creating a warm corner in this way is unrealistic. The timber is fastened with such joining using metal brackets with spikes, nailed down. Laying timber end-to-end is shown in Fig. 1st century How to fasten a beam with a metal bracket can be seen in Fig. 1e.

Figure 3. Dovetail.

The T-shaped connection of capital and internal partitions has several options:

• joint using a key groove;
• “groove-tenon” joint in the form of a symmetrical trapezoid;
• “groove-tenon” joint in the form of an asymmetrical trapezoid with a right angle;
• use of a rectangular mortise-tenon joint.

Spikes in the form of trapezoids are designed to maintain the connection during loosening of the structure and efforts aimed at pulling apart in different directions. The design of such joints is complex, but also more reliable. Because of appearance the connection was called the “dovetail”. The structure of such a joint can be seen in Fig. 3. Manufacturing " swallowtail» requires care and patience when adjusting surfaces.

The connection can be assembled and disassembled only by moving the products in a vertical plane.

Many craftsmen prefer to fasten walls using rectangular tenons. T-joints are often fastened with special brackets, long bolts with large diameter washers or nails. An example of a right-angle tenon connection is shown in Fig. 1 year

Longitudinal material connection

Figure 4. Butt and overlay joint.

One of the main disadvantages of timber is its length limitation. Standard sizes manufactured products range from 4 to 6 m. For long walls or when using scraps, it is necessary to make a longitudinal connection. Such connections are undesirable in the construction of capital walls due to possible deformation. If it is necessary to install longitudinal joints in several rims, they cannot be placed in adjacent rims along the same vertical line. For interior walls There are no restrictions on merging timber due to a more stable temperature regime.

When splicing timber along the length, use a central tenon or various joints with a lock. The straight lock is most often used due to the simple manufacturing process. Samplings are made in the timber to the extent of half the thickness of the timber. The resulting surfaces are available for processing and can be carefully adjusted.

A beam connection that is reliable against displacement can be obtained by using a central tenon. The nest must be made slightly longer than the length of the spike. The length of the tenon should be twice the width of the beam. To connect more firmly, you can install two spikes.

Extension of the timber can also be done with an overlay. The overlay connection can be oblique or straight. Types of connections can be seen in Fig. 4. The ends of the products must be given the selected shape and placed in place. Subsequent crowns with their weight will compress and secure the connection. When lengthening timber in main walls, it is advisable to use a combination various fastenings. Products fitted to the overlay connection must be additionally secured with one or two wedges. A view of a wall with spliced ​​timber can be seen in Fig. 1d. All connections must be sealed with sealing material.

Making corner joints of timber at an indirect angle

In building structures there are always corner joints of timber, the size of which does not correspond to 90°. On most buildings, such corners are located in the attic part of the room. Their size depends on the slope of the roof. On main walls, angles of various sizes can arise when installing protruding or recessed elements.

It is advisable to make joints at an obtuse or acute angle using the “groove-tenon” principle. Protrusions and recesses are cut out at the required angle, and their surfaces are adjusted accordingly. To increase strength, you can use additional fastening with bolts, screws or nails of the required length. If the thickness of the products is large, you need to use metal brackets of the required shape with appropriate fastening.

When making a large number of identical joints, it is advisable to make special marking templates that will speed up and facilitate the process of applying markings for connecting logs in a log house.

For templates you can use tin, plywood, thick cardboard, thin plastic. When making joints, you should first make a cut in the desired position, then remove areas inaccessible to the saw with a chisel.

Ready-made building designs offered by manufacturers building materials, equipped with profiled timber with connections. All types of tenons and grooves are selected based on the required strength and are manufactured using industrial equipment with high accuracy.

If you decide to build wooden house made of timber, then you will undoubtedly need the help of specialists, or at least first become familiar with such a concept as connecting timber along a length. How well you know about the construction wooden house its further maintenance also depends, or in extreme cases, this knowledge will be useful when dismantling the building. Often you have to deal not only with wood processing but also with connecting structural parts.

Typically, the standard length of rough, profiled or glued beams is 6 meters, so when constructing a log house of a wooden house that is longer than the standard, it is necessary to use technologies for connecting along the length.

The timber is joined along its length in cases where one side of the house is longer. The bars are joined on one side with a bandage, and the next row on the other side. This order eliminates the incorrect location of two joints located one under one. Profiled beams are usually connected in several ways in accordance with GOST 30974-2002, the name of which is: “connections of corner wooden paving and log low-rise structures. Classification, designs, sizes." Typically this standard applies to T-joints as well as corner joints. low-rise buildings which are built from logs or timber. These standards are not mandatory, but there is one thing, but these requirements must be taken into account when certifying products, such as profiled timber or entire production.

The type of splice used depends on the load on the beam - loads can be compression, tension and bending.

For the method of connecting timber along the length (splicing), you must also use various types connections, such as:

• Half-tree connection
• Connection with key
• Connection with main tenon
• Connection with oblique lock
• Connection with rim lock

When connecting timber under compression force, it is necessary to use the notches shown in the figure above. The length of the fastening is equal to the width of the beam + 10 cm. Also, when building a house from timber, the connection must be reinforced with dowels.

The drawing shows locks for connections under the influence of tensile forces, which resist longitudinal displacement. They also need to be reinforced with dowels.