Fastening balcony slabs in panel buildings. Installation of balcony slabs and their repair. Who is responsible for repairing balconies?

The spaces formed by protruding horizontal structures of buildings are classified as summer rooms. It is advisable to place open summer rooms (balconies) in a temperate climate zone at common room and kitchen, and in the southern regions and in the bedroom.

The depth of summer rooms should be at least 90 cm for medium climatic regions and at least 120-180 cm for the southern ones, since sleeping places and places for eating are often placed there in the summer.

Balconies, bay windows, loggias significantly increase the comfort of apartments due to connection with external environment and at the same time they enrich the plasticity of the facades. The rationality of their use depends on the climatic characteristics of the construction area. In hot climates, balconies and loggias shade interior spaces from excessive insolation.

Bay windows, which increase illumination and insolation of the interior volume of the room, are well used in northern regions.

Types of summer premises: 1 - open balcony(a - cantilever, b - on poles); — a balcony with windproof screens on one (c) or two (d) sides; 3 - corner balcony; 4 - loggia (d - recessed, e - protruding); 5 - loggia - balcony (w - semi-recessed, 1 - adjacent to the facade plane); 6 - terrace

Device open spaces- balconies and loggias in residential and public buildings mass construction is carried out from standard structural elements factory made.

When constructing buildings on steep slopes or with a façade plane that slopes deeper into the interior, a open terraces, located above the operated volumes. The floors of such terraces serve as exploitable roofs for the volumes being covered, which requires careful attention to waterproofing issues.

The design features of balconies, loggias, and bay windows are multivariate and depend on the construction and structural systems of the building.

Balcony

Loggia

Bay window

Open spaces and bay windows in civil buildings: A – balconies and loggias; B – bay windows; a – open balcony; b – balcony with a windproof screen; c – built-in loggia; d – external loggia; d – built-in loggia-balcony; e – remote loggia-balcony; g – asymmetrical triangular bay window; h – the same, symmetrical; and – the same, rectangular; 1 – balcony slab; 2 – balcony (loggia) fencing; 3 – wind screen

Balconies- open cantilever platforms with a distance of 90-120 cm from the wall plane, with fences up to 1.0 m high on three sides. The shape of balconies can be varied - rectangular, trapezoidal, triangular, curved, sawtooth, etc.

Balconies perform two main functions in an apartment: they serve for relaxation and as a place to carry out various household chores (planting flowers, drying clothes, airing things, storing food).

In design practice, balconies are open with windproof walls, and loggias are built-in, remote, as well as remote and built-in loggias-balconies.

According to their static scheme, balcony slabs can work:

    as a cantilever slab that transmits bending moment and vertical support reaction to the wall structure and the building’s floor;

    How beam slab, which has alternative solutions for supporting the sides: - on cantilever beams, suspension to the internal transverse walls of the building or support on outriggers.

Schemes for transferring bending moment and vertical forces from the balcony slab to the structure: a - external load-bearing wall; b - lightweight concrete floor panel (and external wall); c — consoles; g - brackets; 1 - balcony slab; 2 - outer wall; 3 - overlap; 4 - sealant; 5 - insulation; 6 — rain ridge; 7 — console; 8 — bracket

Pairing the balcony slab with outer wall and the ceiling must satisfy not only the strength requirements, but also provide thermal insulation. Therefore, when executing balcony slabs Thermal insulation is laid from heavy concrete into the joint between the balcony slab and the floor slab. The balcony slab can be an external cantilever part of the floor panel, molded from lightweight concrete.

Balcony structures: a - made of reinforced concrete slabs; b - on reinforced concrete consoles; 1 - balcony slab; 2 - floor slab; 3 - insulation; 4- cement screed; 5- waterproofing carpet; b-gender; 7-drain, 8-beam

Balcony fencing is usually made in the form of a metal lattice. The most critical areas are the places where fence posts are embedded in the slab and handrails in the wall.

Steel parts of balconies must be protected from moisture. To protect the beams from corrosion, they are concreted. Cement-sand or gypsum parts were used as architectural decorations for balconies. Fastening parts are most susceptible to destruction, so their protection from atmospheric influences is given priority special attention.

The balcony slab has a smooth lower plane or ribs protruding along the contour, but in all cases, along the bottom of the outer edges of the slab, a teardrop must be installed that prevents the outer surface of the building wall from getting wet. The upper plane of the balcony slab is made with a slope of 1-2% from the front plane of the wall.

The waterproofing carpet is laid on top of the slab with its top sealed along the wall of the building. A floor made of cement or asphalt is laid over the waterproofing layer. ceramic tiles, located 50-70 mm below the floor of the room to which the balcony adjoins and 100-120 mm below the door threshold.


Connection of a balcony slab with a ceiling made of frequently ribbed slabs with lattice reinforcement - located perpendicular to the balcony overhang:

a) vertical section through the structural rib, b) placement of the balcony slab reinforcement;
1 - flooring made of frequently ribbed slabs; 2 - crown of the ceiling; 3 - floor blocks; 4 - jumper made of U-shaped blocks; 5 - finishing layers of the balcony; 6 – teardropper; 7 - main reinforcement of the balcony slab; 8 - floor layers of slabs with lattice reinforcement; 9 — thermal insulation of the reinforced concrete crown; 10 - hollow blocks; 11 - floor beam; 12 — axis of the floor beam; 13 - tin roofing products; 14 — thermal insulation of the balcony slab

Special balcony slabs are used to construct balconies. Such slabs in large-block buildings are secured by pinching the slab between the transfer, wall and sill blocks and welding steel anchors to the embedded parts of the lintel block and balcony slab.

Balcony slab connection from precast heavy concrete slabs :

a) vertical section through the structural rib, b) placement of the balcony slab reinforcement;
1 - floor made of prefabricated slabs; 2 - crown of the ceiling; 3 - blocks; 4 - jumper made of U-shaped reinforcement blocks in the hollow channels of the slabs; 5 - finishing layers of the balcony; 6 - teardropper; 7 - upper reinforcement of the balcony slab; 8 - floor layers of heavy concrete; 9 — thermal insulation of the reinforced concrete crown; 10 — holes for concreting; 11 - tin roofing products; 12 — thermal insulation of the balcony slab

The upper reinforcement of the balcony is concreted in the channels of the prefabricated slab in increments of one channel.

In large-panel buildings, depending on the designs of external walls (load-bearing, non-load-bearing) and ceilings, various schemes installation of balconies.

Balconies of large-element buildings: A – diagrams of force transmission from balcony slabs in panel buildings; a – on load-bearing external walls; b, c – on the floors; d – on the attached racks; B – details for fastening balcony slabs in panel walls(type “b”); B - the same, in large-block walls; 1 – interior wall panel; 2 – outer wall panel; 3 – balcony slab; 4 – insulating liner; 5 – steel connections; 6 – floor slab; 7 – reinforcement outlets; 8 – cement mortar; 9 – embedding concrete; 10 – sealing; 11 – wall blocks

The covering of loggias-balconies is made of balcony slabs, floor panels, as well as special slabs with a reinforced façade rib. The ceilings of built-in loggias-balconies are supported on the external side walls of the loggias, and external loggias and loggias-balconies are supported on special attached or curtain walls of concrete - “cheeks”.

Fencing of balconies and loggias consists of a metal grid and blind or lattice fences attached to it - screens.

Fencing for balconies and loggias is made of metal gratings reinforced in the concrete slab of the loggia (balcony) floor. The fence can be solid with lattice lining decorative sheets fiberglass, corrugated metal, etc., as well as with the installation of a brick wall with a thickness of a quarter of a brick.

Floors on balconies and loggias are made of ceramic tiles, cement-iron surfaces, or asphalt.

Loggias They can be built into the volume of the building or protrude beyond the facade plane - external, but in both cases they have a blank side fence. When loggias are built into the volume of the building, the installation of adjacent insulated side (end) walls is required.

In order to eliminate cold bridges, heat-insulating gaskets are installed in the ceilings of loggias installed on the outer wall.

The design of external loggias is carried out using additional load-bearing or curtain side walls perpendicular to the facade, protruding consoles of frame columns or clamped in transverse interior walls cantilever beams.

Loggias in large-element houses: A – schemes of remote loggias; a – with load-bearing walls of loggias; b – with curtain walls of loggias; c – on the consoles of internal load-bearing walls; d – on the consoles of the frame columns; B – structural elements of loggias in large-block buildings; B – the same in large-panel buildings; 1 – reinforced concrete loggia slab; 2 – floor panel; 3 – reinforced concrete screen; 4 – wall of the loggia; 5 – drain pipe; 6 – loggia wall clamp; 7 – large jumper block; 8 – basement decorative panel; 9 – large panel of the outer wall

Load-bearing side walls of loggias are used only for mid-rise buildings. At the same time, to ensure the joint settlement of the loggias and the walls of the building, the side cheek-walls of the loggias rest on sections of the foundations of the transverse internal walls, placed beyond the plane of the facade.

Designs for sliding glazing of loggias have been developed, which best meet the requirements of comfort in the middle and northern climatic zones of Russia. When glazing balconies or loggias, a significant drawback arises, expressed in a decrease in the luminous flux by an average of 15-20%, since the wide vertical and horizontal imposts of the fence frames impede the passage of the luminous flux.

According to the structural type, a loggia is a room open on one or more sides, included in the total volume of the building and fenced with outside parapet. A loggia can be a separate structure or a type of balcony recessed into the building. Loggias are based in old buildings, mostly on slabs or floor beams, in modern construction- on protruding pilasters. Water drains from the loggias through drainage holes. The slope of the loggia floor must be at least 5%. Loggia floors are usually waterproofed with rolled roofing carpet or other insulating material.



Loggias and terraces: vertical section - a) loggias, b) terraces; 1 — fencing blocks; 2 - floor slabs; 3 - layer forming the slope; 4 - vapor barrier; 5 — crown insulation element; 6 - anti-damp insulation; 7 - cement covering layer; 8 - finishing layer; 9 - layer forming the floor and underground layer; 10 - concrete tiles

The frameless glazing design eliminates this drawback. It is a frame assembled from four aluminum profiles, which repeats the dimensions of the balcony or loggia opening with an accuracy of 2 mm. Upper horizontal aluminum profile- load-bearing, with shelves on which a pair of double roller supports roll, carrying the canvas tempered glass.

The lower profile is a guide. Vertical profiles with brush seals ensure a tight fit of the glass to the walls of the loggia (balcony). All frame elements are attached to the walls, ceiling and fencing of the loggia or balcony. The finished glazing is a solid wall of 6 mm thick tempered glass without frames or vertical posts. For ventilation, a mechanism is provided for fixing open sashes.

Bay window— the volume of the building’s internal space placed beyond the façade plane ensures an increase in insolation of the usable area of ​​the room and aesthetically enriches the interior. In terms of plan, bay windows can have different configurations - rectangular, triangular, trapezoidal, semicircular, etc.

Bay window is active agent composition of the building, emphasizes the division and plasticity of the facade plane. It can be a separate compositional accent, it can be rhythmically repeated along the vertical plane of the building, or, alternating with flat sections of the wall and sinking loggias, it can create an active light-and-shadow plasticity of the facade.

The walls of bay windows can be either load-bearing or non-load-bearing, and can be made in the form of a volumetric element hung on the building structure.

For load-bearing walls, bay windows are installed on foundation structures. At hanging system- the bay window volume may not reach the foundations and may be interrupted anywhere vertically.

Non-load-bearing lightweight external walls of the bay window rest on various types consoles of internal load-bearing structures - consoles of frame columns, beams clamped in internal walls, consoles of floor slabs.

In hinged bay windows, it is necessary to comply with the thermal protection conditions of its lower and upper ceilings, which are external enclosing structures.

An industrial volumetric bay window element has been developed, intended for use both in new construction and in major repairs and reconstruction of residential buildings.

The volumetric bay window consists of an external reinforced concrete three-layer wall and one upper load-bearing ceiling, is manufactured using bench technology and delivered to the construction site with the maximum degree of factory readiness.

Bay windows are designed with load-bearing, self-supporting and non-load-bearing external walls. Load-bearing and self-supporting walls of bay windows are installed on an independent foundation and designed similarly to the structures of external walls. The non-load-bearing external walls of the bay windows rest on special cantilever floor slabs that repeat the shape of the bay window plan.

Bay window design: a – section along the bay window; b – plan of bay window beams; 1 – lightweight outer wall; 2 – overlap; 3 – cement floor; 4 – slag; 5 – parquet; 6 – subfloor; 7 – backfill; 8 – reinforced concrete slab; 9 - plaster

Brick vaults, which are the load-bearing filling between metal beams, were usually laid out on lime mortar, which, when moistened, quickly breaks down over time.

Bay window - part of the room enclosed by external walls, located behind the external plane façade wall(closed balcony). Bay window increases usable area premises and slightly improves insolation. In addition, it serves as a compositional means for the vertical division of the facade.

The bay window consists of a supporting and enclosing structure. Elements load-bearing structure represent two or more single-span beams with consoles embedded in the outer or inner walls.

Elements of the enclosing structure of the bay window (walls, ceilings, floor) must have the necessary thermal resistance and low density, so the material for them is usually hollow ceramics, multi-hole or slotted brick, foam concrete or reinforced concrete panels with an internal insulating layer. The bay window cover often serves as a balcony for the floor above - a flat roof.

Preparing the slab for slinging (Fig. 1)

T inspects the balcony slab, uses a sledgehammer to break off the beads of concrete on the embedded parts, and uses a brush to clean the surface of any remaining concrete and dirt. Then, using a crowbar, he checks the strength of the embedded parts.

Slinging the slab

T accepts and hooks the hooks of the sling onto the mounting loops of the balcony slab. Then he moves to a safe zone (4-5 m) and gives a signal to the crane operator to tighten the branches of the sling. Having made sure that the sling is secure, T signals the crane operator to lift the balcony slab to the installation site.

Preparing the supporting surface and making a bed of mortar

M2 cleans the supporting surface of debris with a broom and moistens it with water. Then, using a shovel, he lays the mortar in a bed on the supporting surface, leveling it with a trowel.

Installing the Mounting Fixture

for temporary fastening of the slab (Fig. 2)

M1 inserts a universal grip into the technological holes of the floor panel and attaches the support post guy wire to it.

Receiving and laying the slab (Fig. 3)

At command M1, the crane driver delivers the slab to the installation site. At a distance of 20-30 cm from the supporting surface M1 and M2, located on the floor, take the balcony slab and lay it on a bed of mortar. The line remains taut.

Temporary fastening of the slab, alignment and bridging (Fig. 4, 5)

M1 engages the slab with a clamping bracket, and M2 uses a towbar to tension the cable. M1 goes down to the lower floor and applies it to the outer surface wall panel device for aligning balcony slabs. M2, at his command, with the help of a towbar, brings the plate to the design position (until the planes of the device and the plate touch). Having aligned the slab, M2 unfastens it, and M1 rises to the ceiling of the installation horizon.


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In the old building, balconies are often in disrepair and pose a danger not only to the owners, but also to passers-by, so major repairs are required.

To avoid falling out of pieces of concrete or collapse of the structure, it is necessary to reinforce, strengthen, correct the tilt, seal the cracks or restore the slab again. Next, we will provide detailed instructions on how to conduct an examination, we will tell you at whose expense the examination and restoration work is being done, and we will examine in detail the question of how to repair a balcony with your own hands.

Who should do the repairs?

The balcony slab is a common property and the management company is responsible for its condition. Everything that is inside the balcony is the property of the apartment owners, so the burden of responsibility for the repair and maintenance of these useful areas lies on your shoulders.

Emergency balcony, what to do?

If you notice:

  • that the balcony was tilted, and the normal slope to ensure the natural outflow of precipitation is 3% from the outer wall to the inner one;
  • at the junction between the slab and load-bearing wall cracks appeared;
  • pieces of concrete fall off the slab or reinforcement is exposed;
  • The parapet is rusty and wobbly.

You should urgently write an application to the housing and communal services department with a request for repairs, which will reflect in detail all the problems. If you do not do this, then all responsibility for accidents will lie with you. The response to your complaint must follow within 4 weeks: a commission is created, an examination of the balcony is carried out, and a report on the emergency condition of the slab is drawn up.

After the examination, a conclusion is issued, as a result of which you will simply be prohibited from using this structure. Although all costs for repairing the stove should be borne by the management company, they will notify you in writing that they do not have funds for these purposes, and you will simply lose part of your usable space. Therefore, repairs will have to be done on your own and at your own expense. To get back the money spent, you need to collect all the receipts and demand reimbursement of expenses through the court.

Attention: If, after a written ban, you continue to use the emergency balcony, then in this case you will be held responsible for accidents.

Balcony repair, photo of the slab before reconstruction

Where to start renovating a balcony

If you decide to do the balcony repair yourself, first of all you will need a project that can only be completed design organization, having permission for these types of work. Specialists go to the site, assess the condition of the extension, on the basis of which the necessary measures to restore the slab are determined and an estimate is drawn up. It is important to note here that work related to the reconstruction of the balcony is best carried out through an agreement with specialists. Only in this case will you delegate all responsibility to them, even if during the repair process something falls off and falls down, causing damage to property and health.

Of course, hiring professionals to carry out repairs entails significant costs, so many refuse the services and restore the stove themselves. And then we will analyze in detail how to repair a balcony with your own hands, step by step:

  • restore the slab;
  • strengthen the structure;
  • seal the cracks;
  • secure the parapet.

Balcony repair in panel house by strengthening the console with a reinforced concrete beam

How to properly prepare a balcony slab for major repairs

Before making repairs on the balcony, you should clear the area and take out the trash. Then, with an ordinary hammer, with a handle about half a meter, we begin to knock on the concrete, the blows should be of medium strength. Such manipulations will remove all the weak solution. Listen to the sound of impacts, it should be dull, if there is a hum, it means there is a void inside, in this place we break the concrete in order to subsequently eliminate the defect.

When the entire surface of the slab is cleaned, we examine the cracks using a regular metal ruler. We push it into the joint; if it sticks, then the gap is superficial and does not pose a danger. And if, after increased pressure, it slips deeper, then a break is possible, so you will have to not only repair, but also strengthen the slab.

Advice: To make a major overhaul of all balcony elements, it is recommended to reach an agreement with the neighbors above and below, since the structures have common elements, and it is better to repair them together.

Repair of loggias and balconies, photo of how to increase the usable area when restoring the slab

How to strengthen a balcony slab

If after the examination you are convinced that the slab does not have significant damage, it is enough to weld its perimeter with metal corners and strengthen the connection with the wall with anchors.

How to make repairs if the slab is tilted

If the slab is tilted by more than 3°, and most likely a crack has appeared at the wall/slab junction, reinforcement of the balconies is required:

  • Installation of supports is possible if the balcony is located on the lower floors. A concrete platform is poured under the balcony or columnar foundation. Installed on it metal poles with a diameter of 100-150 mm, a circular trim with a corner is made along the upper heads, this structure will support the slab.
  • If repairs to a balcony on the upper floors are required, you will have to install upper or lower brackets or mensols.
  • The upper reinforcement is a strand of metal cable with a diameter of 20-24 mm, which is attached using long anchors on the sides of the balcony. One end is fixed to outside slabs, and the other on the wall at a height of 900-1200 mm from the floor. The slab/wall joint is additionally tightened with a metal angle.
  • Lower reinforcing mensols are preferable, but they enter the neighbors' territory, so in order to install fastenings, you will need to obtain their consent. From metal profile rectangular corners are welded, which are secured with long anchors into the wall.

Ways to repair a balcony slab

How to repair a balcony if part of the slab is lost or completely destroyed

If you need to restore a lost slab or in case of expanding the balcony area, the best way out will be the introduction of channels into the body of the wall, which will become the basis of the extension. For this work it is necessary to involve specialists, since the integrity of the supporting structure is affected. 2-4 are done in the wall deep holes, a channel or high-strength reinforcement is inserted into them, then concreted, and, as a rule, welded on top steel sheet, which serves as the basis and at the same time the formwork for pouring a new concrete slab.

How to make a new reinforcing frame to repair a balcony

Balcony repair technology if reinforcement is exposed in the slab

The destruction of a concrete slab is inevitably associated with exposure of the reinforcing frame. After the surface is cleaned, all signs of rust are removed with a stiff brush, and can be additionally treated with vinegar. After which the rods are treated with an anti-corrosion primer and filled with concrete.

If some of the rods are lost, you should especially pay attention to the strength of the reinforcement at the wall/slab interface, then metal frame will have to finish cooking. To repair, remove the layer of concrete down to the reinforcement with a hammer drill, cut off all damaged by rust metal parts. Drill several holes in the wall. Then insert new rods into them, concrete them and weld them to the remains of the frame. Next is done from above concrete screed, and for strength, you can additionally lay a reinforcing mesh.

To hide the reinforcement along the edges of the slab, it is recommended to weld the perimeter with a corner, make formwork and fill the structure with concrete.

Preparing the slab for screed

How to seal cracks on a balcony

It is better to seal the gap between the slab and the wall in a comprehensive manner, together with the neighbors below. And if you are repairing a balcony in a Khrushchev-era building, then the roof of your balcony is the floor of your neighbors above, so in this case you will have to use them too, so you can not only restore your own balcony, but also avoid leaks during precipitation.

The joint is well cleaned and expanded V-shape, coated with liquid bitumen, onto which a fiberglass or roofing felt tape is glued, extending 100 mm onto the slab and wall. The patch is again coated with bitumen, a metal corner or a galvanized strip folded at an angle is placed on top, which is drilled onto the anchor for strength. Then you can do general waterproofing of the slab and further repairs.

Balcony repair, photo example of how to properly seal the cracks to ensure the structure is airtight

Parapet repair

If the parapet is dilapidated, and especially before glazing the balcony, it needs to be strengthened. As a rule, this is done using an equilateral metal angle:

  • scald around the perimeter of the stove;
  • attach several vertical posts to the bottom frame - be sure to secure 2 on the sides with anchors to the wall, and 2 on the outer corners of the slab;
  • scald the top vertical racks railings from the corner.

Balcony repair, option of parapet reconstruction with subsequent removal of glazing

To expand the balcony, the racks are welded not vertically, but at an angle. For glazing, it is recommended to make the top railings 100 mm or more wide. Below are instructions on how to repair a balcony; the video will help you understand the technology of strengthening the parapet.

How to landscape a balcony with your own hands

To turn an open balcony into useful and comfortable spaces, after restoration of the slab, you should sew up the parapet from the outside with corrugated sheets or siding, and hang protective curtains.

If a closed and warm balcony is planned, after glazing the extension is insulated inside stone wool or polystyrene plates. To do cosmetic repairs, it is enough to close the thermal insulation layer vapor barrier membrane, make lathing, install light if necessary

The balcony is not only an important part of any apartment or private building from a utilitarian point of view, but also from an aesthetic point of view. True, dilapidated buildings can pose a danger, as they can simply fall. Securing a balcony is not that difficult. Read more in our material.

Mounted

Hanging balconies differ from permanent balconies in that they can be installed on any floor, regardless of whether there are balconies below or not. They can be installed anywhere, since they are mounted on a special frame, which, in turn, is fixed to beams.

You can also hang clotheslines there, install a dryer, a window sill, flower pot. The differences, in general, are exclusively in design terms. But there is one very important “but”: such structures need additional strengthening.


Scheme of strengthening the slab of a small balcony using guy wires

Moreover, the brackets and the metal frame itself rust over time; the structure will have to be strengthened at least once every 5 years. This rule should not be neglected, because you need to understand that we are talking about the safety of human life.

Before talking about the features of permanent balconies, it is worth adding that most often it is used for finishing hanging balconies. plastic material such as PVC or siding. A window sill, clotheslines, a flower pot and a dryer can be installed there, we must repeat, the same way as on a permanent one.

Capital

As you might guess, a capital balcony is a structure that comes out of a load-bearing wall apartment building. In new buildings, all such structures are exclusively capital.


Basic methods of fastening balcony slabs

On the one hand, such a design can withstand a very heavy load. On the other hand, it is extremely difficult to repair it; it will require a lot of time and a lot of money.

To drain water, even in capital balconies, the slab is laid at a certain slope.

The main thing that needs to be done when strengthening such a structure is to strengthen the load-bearing balcony slab, fences, parapet and everything else - this is also important, but secondary.

You can also install clotheslines on the loggia, place a flower pot, install a window sill in front of the parapet, organize a dryer, do glazing by installing any window, whether plastic, wooden or aluminum.

Features of fastening concrete slabs

Many people believe that a balcony slab is load-bearing slab of the apartment building itself, which simply protrudes slightly from the facade. In fact, this is far from the case.


Strengthening the balcony by creating a new frame

There are several mounting methods:

  • support on protruding structures;
  • support on columns or in-wall consoles;
  • hanging the slab from the walls of the building;
  • use of a cantilever plate;
  • pinching on a load-bearing wall.

In brick houses, slabs are installed exclusively by the pinching method, since the walls themselves already carry quite a large load, which is why such a fairly large load is used. the hard way fastenings

However, regardless of the mounting, on such a balcony you can install a clothes dryer, a flower pot, ropes, and a window sill in front of the parapet. It is interesting that the edge of the wall, which is adjacent to the balcony, must be thickened. Moreover, the slab itself is not exactly straight at 45°, but has a slope of at least 2°. Why is this necessary?


One of the options for strengthening the load-bearing wall of the balcony

Trivial for water drainage. It is not difficult to imagine what will happen if there is no such bias. Brick wall it will simply begin to collapse. In panel-type houses, which make up more than 60% of the Russian housing stock, fastening is carried out somewhat differently. Here the slabs are installed precisely on the beams, on reinforced concrete slab, coming from the ceilings. It is much easier for builders to make such fastenings.

But on the other hand, this design is much less reliable than in the first case. And repairs are more expensive later. Although it’s also easy to install a window sill in front of the parapet, clotheslines, and a dryer here.

Many people wonder why builders cannot simply lengthen the load-bearing part right away, because everything will be much simpler this way, and such a structure will not require any expensive repairs? It's not that simple here. The fact is that such a solution will significantly reduce the service life of not only the balcony itself, but also the apartment building as a whole.

So, a panel house with major renovations should last about 120-150 years. But if you make balconies of this type, maximum term operation of the house will be 70 years. State interests, what can you do about it?


An example of a balcony slab reinforcement scheme

Strengthening a concrete slab in various ways

Factors that indicate that the balcony slab needs additional strengthening and repair:

  • the reinforcement is partially or completely exposed;
  • appeared deep cracks not only on the slab itself, but also on the adjacent facade of the apartment building itself;
  • there are peelings on both the top and bottom of the slab;
  • fragments collapse.

It is advisable to treat all elements of the balcony with anti-corrosion liquid.

Recovery involves several stages:


As you can see, strengthening the balcony slab is not so difficult, although all this must be considered in each specific case separately. After strengthening, you can completely calmly install a window sill, hang clotheslines, install a dryer, and do glazing (you can choose a wooden window, but for some reason everyone is just obsessed with plastic ones).

A plastic balcony is no longer as relevant as it was 10 years ago: a wooden one is both more beautiful and more convenient to use.

If the reinforcement is very worn out, then significant reinforcement will be required, which is carried out in 3 stages:


It sounds trivial, but when working with balconies it is necessary to take into account all safety requirements. To begin with, the work site needs to be fenced off on the ground floor so that a piece of concrete slab does not suddenly fall on someone passing by.

Carrying out such work without fencing and warning signs is a violation not only of safety rules, but also of Russian legislation.

Video

You can watch a video on how to properly repair balcony slabs.

Lately, have you been constantly looking for an answer to the question of how to make repairs on your balcony? You found it! There is no point in talking about the benefits of a balcony in our apartment. This truly dimensionless room helps us out time after time, acting as a warehouse, cellar, pantry, smoking break, etc. And if you apply your hands and imagination, the balcony can be turned into an independent full-fledged room. But this is all about technically sound designs. In a state of disrepair, this is not only useless, but also a dangerous addition to the home. Balcony repair - photos and articles prepared by us will help you cope with this task.

The fate of an emergency balcony can be decided by experienced specialists after a thorough inspection. Only their verdict in the form of an expert report gives the answer to the question: should we completely dismantle the old balcony and start building a new one, or should we still save it through a major overhaul?

Technical condition assessment

Where to start renovating a balcony? From inspection. Moreover, the examination was thorough and with passion. And only professionals with significant knowledge of strength materials, construction mechanics and extensive practical experience know how to make a balcony safe for many years.

It’s hard for a non-specialist to even imagine how to repair “this”! Let's give him one last chance.

Important: The balcony is the most dangerous structure of the house. Don't be careless and frivolous. A balcony collapse can turn a frail slab with a rotten fence into a granite slab with a fence in a quiet, peaceful place.

For the right approach When renovating a balcony, you should understand that its reliability lies on three pillars:

  1. Interaction and joint work of concrete and reinforcement.
  2. Reliable fastening (pinching) in the wall of the building.
  3. Reliable fencing.

So, what to pay special attention to when examining a balcony.

  1. The condition of the protective layer of concrete and its destruction.
  2. The presence of corrosion of metal embedded parts and fittings.
  3. Drainage metal drains. Condition, presence or absence of waterproofing.
  4. Condition of the fence.

Photo of the balcony after renovation

DIY balcony repair

Now to the point. Emergency repairs are not a job for beginners. It is only at first glance that everything is simple. But let's look at repairing the balcony with our own hands step by step.

If the balcony slab is completely rotten and crumbling, then it needs to be strengthened. And only the “living” part of the structure should be left as the basis. And everything that crumbles, crumbles, falls away - be liquidated with all proletarian hatred.

Next is concreting. Concrete must be of class no lower than B10 for strength and F32 for frost resistance, industrially produced or prepared in a concrete mixer and poured in one go. It is under these conditions that new concrete will connect with the old one and the reinforcement into a single monolith and will not overload the rest of the balcony slab.

The suitability of reinforcement is determined based on the depth of corrosion of its rods. If the cross-section diameter has decreased by no more than 10%, it can be used further (initially there was a safety margin). You should also pay attention to areas of corrosion. If the rods along the edge of the balcony slab are damaged, new rods can be welded nearby. But if the damage reaches the wall, reinforcing mesh When repairing, it must be completely replaced with a new one.

Strengthening the balcony slab

The main thing when repairing a balcony is to restore the load-bearing capacity of the slab. And since it works in bending, the main factor in the safety of the balcony is the working reinforcement.

In the reinforcement frame of the balcony slab, the main rods lie perpendicular to the wall and work in tension.

Repairing a balcony in a panel house should be done extremely carefully due to the way the slab is fastened. The photo shows how to connect the reinforcement to the wall of the house.

We drill holes in the wall to 2/3 of the wall thickness, but not less than 20 cm in increments of 10 cm. We cut reinforcement rods with a diameter of at least 12 mm. The length of the rods should be: the width of the balcony plus the depth of the hole in the wall minus 30-35 mm (the protective layer of concrete at the end of the slab). We insert the rods into the holes to the full depth and caulk them with cement mortar.

The solution ratio is 1:3. After it has firmly set, we install the longitudinal reinforcement rods parallel to the building wall in increments of 10 cm. We tie the reinforcement with tying wire or weld it by welding. As a result we have load-bearing frame balcony slab.

We install the formwork and fill the slab. The thickness of the concrete above the reinforcement cage must be at least 20 mm.

But this is not enough. It is necessary to install thrust struts - modules - under the slab. This is very effective way reinforcement for the reason that the modulon, under the action of the slab, transfers the load to the wall, forcing it to work in compression.

Fact: Ancient stone balconies have been lying on modulars for centuries, and after another restoration they still serve to this day.

This is not only a reinforcement, but also a beautiful design element throughout the house.

Thrust struts are made from channel Nos. 10-12. You can install struts both along the edges of the balcony and in the span of the slab. This method of reinforcement allows not only to bring the load-bearing capacity up to the standard, but also to exceed it.

Strengthening the balcony using thrust struts - modulons.

There are only two negative conditions:

  1. It is problematic to do this after glazing the lower balcony.
  2. The floor height must be sufficient to install the modules. Otherwise, they will hang over the door and window openings of the lower floor.

If it is impossible to comply with these conditions, diagonal jibs should be used to repair the balcony. One of its edges is welded to the metal frame of the slab or to the reinforcement frame. To attach the second edge, it is necessary to strengthen the embedded part from the channel in the wall groove and weld the second edge of the jib to it. Fix the embedded part itself in the wall with through studs.

Important: When a balcony is being repaired in a Khrushchev-era building or in an older building, it should be understood that the wall may also be in poor condition. Therefore, pay extremely close attention to the places where the balcony repair elements are attached to the wall. This rule is true in both brick and panel houses.

With the help of diagonal jibs, you can perform high-quality reinforcement of balconies. The main thing is reliable fastening.

Note: Unlike thrust struts, only two diagonal struts can be installed - at the edges of the balcony.

How to seal cracks

Minor balcony repairs include the following work:

  • sealing seams;
  • repair of crumbled edges;
  • replacing rusted railings.

Cracks

Before repairing cracks, you must find out their depth. Either these are surface cracks only in the screed or they have penetrated deep into the slab. The second option is bad. Not only has the concrete lost its solidity, moisture and air have reached the reinforcement through the cracks and quietly, but successfully, carry out their destructive effect.

To determine the nature of the cracks, you need to use a set of metal probes. If it more or less freely enters the crack 20-40 mm and sharply rests, the crack is superficial, only in the screed. It can be sealed and you can safely use the balcony. But if the probe enters the crack tighter and tighter, and then jams, it means that the crack has gone into the slab. Here it is imperative to knock down the screed and do a thorough revision of the slab before repairs.

One detail you should pay attention to is the presence of a crack along the junction of the slab and the wall. In this place there should be a rounding (fillet) made of mortar. It is made to close the joint from water ingress. Usually this crack does not pose a danger, although it looks threatening.

Calculation of permissible load

A typical balcony is designed for a maximum load of 12 kN, which is approximately equal to 1.77 tons. The calculation is based on the following initial data: 6 adults 85 kg each, 175 kg of things and objects, 200 kg of ice and snow. Plus double the safety margin. As a result we have:

(6×85+175+200)×2=1770 kg.

Based on this figure, each owner can calculate the weight of glazing, insulation, finishing and decide how much weight the balcony can withstand and how to use it after repair from a safety point of view. If the balcony is not standard and it is difficult to calculate its load-carrying capacity, you should order a reconstruction or major repair project. The designers will accurately calculate how many kilograms the balcony can withstand after renovation, and you don’t have to rack your brains over what technology and materials to use during the renovation.

We invite you to watch the balcony repair; the video clearly demonstrates the danger of emergency balconies.

Repair of loggias and balconies, the photo clearly demonstrates how a modern structure can be made as a result of repairs.

Balcony repair after strengthening the structure

During the renovation process, you can expand balconies or loggias along the slab or window sill. Thereby increasing small balcony and install the supporting frame in front of the glazing. Next, step by step, we gradually carry out glazing, insulation inside, finishing clapboard or other material.

Whenever possible, light materials should be used during repairs. This will reduce the load on the balcony slab after repairs.

Bottom line

In conclusion, remember: high-quality repairs, And safe operation the balcony consists of three components:

  1. Expert assessment of the condition and recommendations from specialists.
  2. Strengthening the slab.
  3. Weight savings, but not at the expense of reliability and strength.