biologist, collector indoor plants, website editor (indoor plants section)

Question: When is it time to replant phalaenopsis?

Answer: The question is often asked: is it necessary to replant phalaenopsis immediately after purchase? A healthy plant will need replanting only after two or three years, when the old substrate (bark) is destroyed. In this case, the transplant should be done with maximum replacement of the old bark with a new one.

It’s another matter if you purchased phalaenopsis at a discount. Then you need to carefully examine the roots. If there is cause for concern, then a transplant is necessary, replacing the substrate and removing diseased roots.

Question: What substrate is suitable for phalaenopsis?

Answer: Only bark, okay top layer cover the roots with sphagnum. Phalaenopsis is an epiphytic plant. In nature, it lives on tree trunks, while its roots are not immersed in the substrate, but are in a free state. The roots are wetted only by precipitation, drying out regularly. Phalaenopsis receives nutrition through rainwater, in which, as they flow down the leaves, they dissolve nutrients(most often bird droppings). A substrate in the form of bark is needed only to give the phalaenopsis a vertical, stable position; the phalaenopsis will receive nutrients not from the substrate, but from the solution with which you will water the orchid. The bark allows air to flow freely to the roots and allows them to dry out regularly, which is very important.

Often companies that produce plant substrates add other components to the orchid substrate. But in the orchid family there are epiphytic species, semi-epiphytic species, and species living on the ground. And each of them will require its own substrate recipe.

Question: Which pot to choose for phalaenopsis?

Answer: A pot for phalaenopsis should be

transparent.
Phalaenopsis roots, like leaves, participate in the process of photosynthesis, i.e. help the plant synthesize organic substances for growth.

• have drainage holes for easy drainage of water.
  Root wetting leads to fatal consequences for phalaenopsis.

match in size.
If you are replanting a healthy, overgrown plant, then you need to take a pot with a slightly larger diameter. If diseased roots were removed during replanting, then most likely a larger pot will not be needed. There is no point in planting phalaenopsis in a pot to grow; increasing the volume of the substrate will not have a positive effect on either the size of the flowers or the frequency of flowering.

Question: How to replant phalaenopsis?

Answer: When replanting phalaenopsis, you must be extremely careful and try to damage the roots as little as possible. We need to make sure that the transplant is really necessary. Prepare boiled and cooled bark in advance, a pot if you need a different one, scissors for trimming diseased roots, sulfur for dusting (if necessary). Before transplanting, healthy phalaenopsis should be watered, since raw roots are more flexible. However, if it becomes necessary to trim damaged roots, it is better to replant phalaenopsis with dry roots.

Carefully remove the phalaenopsis from the pot, shake the old substrate as much as possible (it is better to remove the old bark completely, it is more moisture-absorbing, and the substrate should dry evenly), if the roots are stuck to a piece of bark, leave it, do not tear it off. Inspect the roots, cut out the bad ones, sprinkle the cut areas with sulfur or crushed coal. Place some bark at the bottom of the pot. No drainage needed. The bark fraction should not be large, but not small, approximately 1.5x2 cm.

Place the roots of the phalaenopsis in the pot, begin to gradually add fresh substrate. Leave the roots that do not fit in the pot free, as they easily rot if injured. These protruding roots must be soaked when watering. The top of the pot can be covered with sphagnum, but the sphagnum should not be constantly wet. After transplanting, it is better to postpone watering for 7-10 days, during which time the injured roots will dry out.

Question: Phalaenopsis leaves wrinkle and wither, what is the problem?

Answer: If you notice that the leaves of the phalaenopsis have begun to wither and wrinkle, this means that there is a problem with the roots; they have ceased to fully supply water to the leaves. If this happened due to the substrate drying out for a long time, then you need to urgently wet the roots by immersing them in water for 10 minutes and spraying the leaves, this will help restore turgor faster. If watering does not help, this means that all the roots or most of them have died from systematic waterlogging or too long drying. Then you will need resuscitation:

Remove the plant from the pot, even though it is flowering, shake the bark and inspect the roots. All living roots after soaking should acquire green, become full and hard. If the roots remain gray or brown, they are dead and need to be cut off. Take scissors or pruning shears, carefully cut off the diseased roots, powder the cut areas with sulfur or charcoal. If you had to cut off all the roots or most of them, then powder the bottom of the phalaenopsis (immediately under the leaves) with Kornevin, this substance will stimulate the phalaenopsis to quickly form new roots, wrap this place in damp sphagnum and place it in a pot, spray the leaves. After this, you need to place the plant in a greenhouse. Any container of suitable size that has a transparent, closing top can serve as a greenhouse. This could be an unused aquarium, closed at the top plastic film, cut-off 5-liter water bottle, basin, etc. A plant placed in a greenhouse will not lose moisture. The greenhouse must be ventilated every two days, and the leaves must be sprayed occasionally.

It will have a good effect foliar feeding once every 2 weeks. To do this, you need to dilute a specialized fertilizer for orchids in a concentration 10 times less than for root feeding, and spray with the resulting solution. It is necessary to ensure that the sphagnum is constantly moist (not very damp). The greenhouse should stand in a warm, bright place, since the leaves must photosynthesize and feed the plant. New roots will appear in a month or two. When they grow, the phalaenopsis is transplanted into the bark and gradually accustomed to the conditions of the room - usually no earlier than six months. You will have to wait about a year for a full-fledged copy.

Question: Spots have appeared on the leaves of phalaenopsis, what should I do?

Answer: It should be immediately noted that some varieties of phalaenopsis are variegated. Such spots have no relief (convexity, concavity) and are more or less evenly distributed over the leaf and throughout the plant.

But if suddenly a spot that is not typical for the plant appears on the leaf, this means that a problem has arisen. A black-brown spot on a phalaenopsis leaf may occur due to direct burn sun rays. Such a spot is usually several centimeters in diameter; after moving the plant into the shade, it does not increase in size and dries quickly. Helpful measures - remove phalaenopsis from direct sun, then routine care. Over time, such a stain may fade a little, decrease in size, and, as a rule, does not need treatment. Sometimes a stain from sunburn It can be light and dry. Burns on the leaves may also appear after spraying the plant in the sun.

But there are spots of a different nature. They appear due to non-compliance temperature regime and mode of watering and spraying. In damp, cool conditions and with reduced ventilation fungal and bacterial rots develop. If the room temperature is below +18 degrees, then it is better to cancel spraying. When watering or bathing a plant, you should try to ensure that the leaves have time to dry before nightfall. Do not allow moisture to get to the growing point (in the middle top sheet), this can cause rot in the middle. Rotting spots usually gradually increase in diameter, are black in color, and become wet. Help - changing the conditions of maintenance and care, moving the plant to a brighter, warmer and ventilated room, removing the affected area of ​​the leaf, treating with fungicides and bactericides (Sulfur, Fundazol, Fitosporin, Trichopolum). After processing a diseased plant, the tool must be disinfected; do not place the affected phalaenopsis close to other plants to avoid transmission of infection. Usually several treatments are required. The plant can again be considered healthy if the affected area does not enlarge and no new spots appear.

Like many other plants, phalaenopsis is susceptible to attack by various sucking insects, whose stings turn into wounds. This is first of all , spider mites and scale insects, may also occur aphids, mealybugs, thrips. The bite sites first acquire a yellowish color, then may become dark. These spots are small in diameter, scattered unevenly across the leaves, and wounds can be seen at the bite sites. Thrips lay their eggs on the underside of the leaf; brown dots and dashes appear on the upper side, which over time become whitish. Helpful measures - identify the pest and treat with an acaricide - a tick preparation (Neoron, Agravertin, Fitoverm) or an insecticide - against insects (Aktara, Aktellik, Fitoverm), this will require repeated treatments.

Question: How to make phalaenopsis bloom?

Answer: Phalaenopsis can grow in a north-facing window and under a fluorescent lamp, but it often refuses to bloom. The best stimulus for flowering will be the rays of the sun. It is optimal to place it on an eastern or western windowsill, with a certain amount getting onto the plant. sunlight. Phalaenopsis can be given a short period of rest in winter, when the length of daylight hours is reduced, moved to a room with a night temperature of +15...+18 degrees, and reduced watering. Usually, a daily temperature fluctuation of several degrees is sufficient for phalaenopsis. Phalaenopsis should be fed with special fertilizers for orchids. In the case of active growth of green mass and lack of flowering, it is necessary to abandon fertilizing for a while.

Question: What to do with the peduncle after flowering, how to care for phalaenopsis after flowering?

Answer: There are no changes in care after flowering. It is not recommended to cut the flower arrow until it has dried. But even if you cut off the green arrow, the plant itself will not be harmed.

When the flower arrow begins to dry, it is cut off below the yellowing; re-blooming is possible from the remaining buds. But often the flower arrow is disposable; you shouldn’t expect 100% re-blooming on it. If the arrow has dried up, then it must be carefully cut out as close to the socket as possible; the length of the stump is not so important. The cut usually does not need to be treated with anything, but it can be treated with brilliant green, sprinkled with coal, and sulfur.

Question: How to propagate phalaenopsis?

Answer: Phalaenopsis reproduces vegetatively at home. But it should be noted that it is not as easy as other plants. The most painless method of reproduction is children's department, which sometimes, for certain reasons, is formed on a peduncle instead of a flower. But this doesn't happen often. You can separate it after the formation of your own roots. The baby is raised in moist sphagnum moss in a greenhouse. The baby will become a full-fledged specimen in about a year.

Sometimes phalaenopsis gives side babe. More often this occurs after damage or death of the growing point (rot, mechanical damage). The baby is separated and raised in the same way.

There is another way of vegetative propagation - dividing the mother plant. A specimen with 6-10 leaves is cut crosswise so that the top also has at least a few roots. The cut is dried for several days, treated with sulfur, coal, top part planted in a mixture of sphagnum and bark, trying to ensure that the cut does not touch the substrate. Bottom part should give side children, which are separated as described above.

Seed propagation of phalaenopsis at home is almost impossible.

Question: Phalaenopsis leaves turn yellow, what's the problem?

Answer: If only the bottom leaf turns yellow, and the rest remain green and elastic, then this is the natural death of the old leaf. Often, with the growth of a new leaf, phalaenopsis sheds the lowest one old leaf. The maximum number of leaves on a phalaenopsis can be 10-12 pieces, the minimum should be at least 3 leaves. If the plant does not grow new leaves, there are few of them, and it sheds the bottom leaf - the phalaenopsis is starving. During famine, the main thing for any plant is to preserve the growth point, for the sake of it some parts of the plant ( lower leaves, individual shoots) die, releasing nutrients upward.

So why might your plant be starving? Firstly, from lack of light. Then the process of photosynthesis cannot proceed normally, the plant does not produce organic matter for your construction. Secondly, from a lack of macro- and microelements that come with fertilizers. If the plant is standing in dark place, it is necessary to provide it with light. If phalaenopsis has not been fed for a long time, it is necessary to start feeding it.

If at the same time several leaves turn yellow, they begin to rot - the plant was overwatered. In this case, the yellowing is spread over almost the entire sheet, not in spots. It is necessary to reduce watering and inspect the roots for rot. If necessary, take resuscitation measures (see above - resuscitation).

Extensive yellowing of several leaves c can also be caused by excess light. Sometimes this is accompanied simultaneously by large brown spots on the leaves and rosette of phalaenopsis. This happens if the phalaenopsis is placed in direct sun without shade. It is necessary to move it to a less lit place.

A chemical burn can also cause massive yellowing of leaves if the phalaenopsis is watered with a very concentrated solution of salts. Even one such treatment can cause the death of the plant.

Question: What do healthy Phalaenopsis roots look like?

Answer: The phalaenopsis root is a thread the thickness of a horsehair, which is covered on top with a water-retaining braid. The total root thickness is approximately 0.5 cm. The roots, filled with water, are green with white streaks. If the roots dry out, the color becomes silver. Dead roots become gray-brown or brown, empty inside, and wrinkled. If after soaking for 10 minutes the roots do not turn green (with white streaks), then they are dead.

Question: How to water phalaenopsis correctly and with what water?

Answer: It is better to water Phalaenopsis using the immersion method. The pot with phalaenopsis is placed in a container, the container is filled with water to the level of the beginning of the leaves, left in this position for several minutes (no more than 10), the pot is taken out of the water, the remaining water is allowed to drain from the drainage holes, and placed on permanent place. Watering frequency depends on conditions environment(air humidity, temperature, etc.). Between waterings, you need to let the roots dry, wait until the roots turn from green to silver.

Phalaenopsis can withstand slight drying, but is afraid of overwatering. When the roots become waterlogged, they are susceptible to fungal and bacterial diseases. Eat golden rule: It’s better to underfill than overfill. Water for irrigation must be settled, at room temperature or 2-3 degrees warmer, preferably soft water with a low calcium content. If tap water contains a lot of calcium, then it is better to use boiled water for irrigation. The water must be boiled for several minutes, allowed to cool completely and carefully drained from the sediment that has formed at the bottom of the kettle. It is not recommended to use water passed through an ion exchange filter. You can use water passed through a carbon filter. Fertilizers are added to water for irrigation according to the instructions. When watering, do not allow water to get into the center of the rosette of leaves, as this can lead to rotting of the growing point and its death.

Question: How long does phalaenopsis bloom?

Answer: The duration of phalaenopsis flowering depends on the characteristics of the variety and maintenance conditions. Phalaenopsis usually blooms for 2-3 months, sometimes flowering lasts up to six months. The frequency of flowering may be determined by the variety and growing conditions. If the conditions are met, phalaenopsis should be guaranteed to bloom at least once a year.

Question:How long does Phalaenopsis live?

Answer: Phalaenopsis - perennial. Its lifespan in room conditions at proper care may be 7-10 years.

Question: What determines the size of phalaenopsis, the size of flowers and the height of the peduncle?

Answer: The size of the leaves, rosettes, flowers, and the height of the peduncle in phalaenopsis are determined by the variety, with slight fluctuations depending on the conditions of detention. If you purchased a mini-alenopsis, it will never become a phalaenopsis grande. The number of leaves and the height of the plant itself may increase, but not by much; the flowers will remain the original size.

Question: Why do the buds and flowers of phalaenopsis fall off?

Answer: Phalaenopsis can lose buds and flowers due to a sudden change in conditions. This often happens after purchasing a plant or improper transportation. During flowering, do not allow the roots to dry out.

Question: Why do spots appear on phalaenopsis flowers?

Answer: There are varieties of phalaenopsis with spotted flowers. Spots of a different nature appear after moisture gets on the flowers. It is not recommended to spray these orchids flower by flower. Often spots appear during transportation, white varieties especially suffer from this. Such flowers cannot be restored.

Looking at the photo of the Phalaenopsis orchid, few gardeners will remain indifferent to this spectacular flower. In addition, these plants are relatively unpretentious in care. However, they can also be affected dangerous disease or harmful insects. In this case, the life of the orchid depends on proper treatment.

What conditions are required for a Phalaenopsis orchid?

Most often, the leaves of an orchid signal that an orchid is not feeling well: they begin to turn yellow, wither, and dry out. This does not always indicate illness. Novice amateur flower growers are likely to encounter violations of the rules of care.

Orchid owners should be aware of the natural aging of the flower. Phalaenopsis loses one or two lower leaves every year.

Required lighting level

Phalaenopsis orchids do not tolerate direct sunlight, but they still love good lighting. That's why best place to place them there will be a window sill on the east or west side rooms.

On a south window, an orchid of this type must be shaded, moving away from the glass or covering it with a screen from a source of direct light.

Don't forget that correct height and healthy development are possible with a daylight hours of 12–15 hours. From mid-autumn and throughout the winter, install additional lighting above the orchids, for example, a phytolamp. This light source is the best option; it does not damage the leaves. The only rule is that the lamp should be no closer than 20 cm from the plant.

If the leaves have darkened, become soft and elongated, this indicates a lack of light.

External factors: room temperature and humidity

Orchids are tropical flowers and need warmth. For Phalaenopsis, you need to maintain the room temperature within 20–25°C. The minimum permissible for an orchid (and only in certain cases, for example, during the dormant period) is not lower than 12°C.

The ideal humidity level for this type of plant is 70–80%. It is difficult to achieve such an indicator in the entire room, and it is not very useful for people. The best option There will be regular ventilation of the room (but do it carefully, Phalaenopsis cannot tolerate cold drafts) and increase air humidity in one of the following ways.

Proper watering

For Phalaenopsis orchids it is better to use water:

• rain;
• left for at least a day;
• boiled;
• passed through a household filter.

If you wrap 10 g of peat in gauze, dip this bag in 10 liters of water and leave for a day, this will soften the water.

Watering rules:

If the problem clearly goes beyond acceptable limits, and is not related to aging or errors in care, you will have to look for the cause in disease and exposure to pests.

Video: about the rules of caring for orchids

Table: diseases and pests characteristic of Phalaenopsis orchids

Table: how to make a diagnosis based on external signs

Fighting diseases of the Phalaenopsis orchid

More often appearance Phalaenopsis orchids suffer due to improper care. If you notice this in a timely manner and begin to correct the situation, the plant will quickly get stronger and take on a healthy appearance. But if time is wasted, fungal, viral and bacterial diseases will attack the weakened flower, which can very quickly destroy the orchid.

Consequences of violating the rules of watering: why leaves become lethargic and fall off

Phalaenopsis orchids are accustomed to high humidity indoor air. Many novice gardeners try to compensate for the lack of moisture by frequent and abundant watering. This is fundamentally wrong: in Phalaenopsis, due to this attitude, the leaves lose turgor and crumble.

If this happens during the hot season, do the following:

• wait until the substrate dries and henceforth water the flower every 2–3 days;
• support required humidity air;
• in the middle of the day, use a fan, placing it 2-3 m from the plants and turning it on at low power.

In winter, water Phalaenopsis no more than 2 times a week, and ventilate by opening the windows daily for 30 minutes. It is advisable to do this in not too windy weather.

Swelling: what can cause the root system to rot

Low room temperature, abundant watering and water getting on the leaf blade can lead to the development of edema on the leaves of Phalaenopsis. Because of this, over time the roots begin to rot. During the cold season, move pots with orchids away from window sills, reduce watering and do not forget to remove excess water from the pan.

Exposure to low temperatures: what causes dark spots to appear

IN winter time Phalaenopsis orchids require special care each year because they are not cold-resistant. Provide the plant with warmth (at least 16°C) and regular ventilation, avoid spraying. Otherwise, the leaves will become covered with dark spots of fungal origin.

If you bought a Phalaenopsis orchid in a store and brought it home to autumn-winter period, you may encounter another problem. The flower has difficulty adapting to cold weather; its leaves become frostbitten and become covered with white spots. Cut off the affected areas to healthy tissue and sprinkle the sections with crushed activated carbon.

Fungal diseases: why rot or white plaque appears on the plant

Most often, the development of fungal diseases on an orchid is due to improper watering, non-compliance with temperature conditions and excessive humidity. Phalaenopsis is most susceptible powdery mildew, anthracnose, gray rot, less often - rust.

Bacterial diseases: why leaves turn yellow or darken

Of this type of disease, the Phalaenopsis orchid is most often affected by brown spot. As soon as you notice yellowing, darkening or softening of the leaves, or the appearance of ulcers with sticky liquid, immediately cut out the infected areas completely. Lubricate the edges with iodine.

Viral diseases: can the plant be saved?

Phalaenopsis orchids are not resistant enough to viruses, and if they become infected, it is very difficult to cure them. Most likely, the diseased plant will have to be destroyed, since it is absolutely effective drugs and there are no ways, and the virus can easily spread to neighboring flowers. If you see mosaic-like spots, circles and stripes on the leaves, show the orchid to a specialist who will confirm or refute the diagnosis.

Photo gallery: diseases characteristic of the Phalaenopsis orchid

Brown spot most often affects Phalaenopsis orchids.
Rot affects the roots and neck of the orchid
Fungal diseases are dangerous for Phalaenopsis
With powdery mildew, the leaf becomes covered with a white coating.

Video: care errors that cause orchid diseases

Ways to control Phalaenopsis pests

Having purchased an orchid in a store, do not rush to immediately place it on a window where other flowers are already located. There may be insects on the plant and in the substrate, and often dangerous ones.

Pests of Phalaenopsis orchids can affect the plant itself or the root system.

Thrips: who leaves bright paths

Since Phalaenopsis is thermophilic, it is most often grown indoors with high temperature. Tiny thrips (their size is no more than 2.5 mm) also love warmth, so they happily settle on almost all types of orchids. The problem is that insects are difficult to detect: they usually hide in the substrate. Their presence is indicated by black dots and silvery tracks on the leaves.

Thrips destroy the entire plant: they suck out the juices from the leaves and stems and lay larvae in the roots.

If you find traces of thrips activity, take the following measures:

1. Treat the orchid, substrate and all plants nearby with Actellik or Fitoverm solution.
2. Repeat treatment 3 times every 7–10 days.

Scale insects and false scale insects: where did the sticky spots come from?

As soon as you see characteristic brown or yellowish tubercles on the stems and leaves of an orchid, you should know: the plant is infected with a false scale insect. Such plaques are not always immediately noticeable, but they are the “house” of the adult female insect.

The larva of the false scale insect crawls over the plant in search of suitable place, after which it sticks to it, drawing out the juices, and over time becomes covered with a brown film-shield.

Larvae and adults feed on the juices of the flower and leave behind a sticky liquid, which becomes a good environment for the development of fungi and rot.

Scale insects are also often found on Phalaenopsis. Its armored cover is denser than that of the false scale insect, rounded-convex and covered with a waxy coating. The effect on the plant is almost the same.

Ways to solve the problem

• wash the plant thoroughly with soapy water;
• remove remaining pests;
• Treat the plant and substrate with Actellik or Fitoverm solution;
• spray again after 7–10 days;
• transplant the flower into a new substrate.

Mealybugs: what causes wilting leaves

Phalaenopsis orchids can be significantly affected by mealybugs because this pest is not easy to detect. Small white insect with an oblong body covered with fluff, it hides at the roots, bases of leaves and at their junctions. The mealybug sucks the juice out of the plant, leaving behind a liquid with a powdery consistency. You can definitely notice them when the leaves of a flower dry out.

What to do to get rid of mealybugs

• completely remove dry leaves and roots from the orchid;
• carefully examine all hidden areas of the plant, select all found pests using toothpicks;
• inspect the orchid every day for new worms;
• regularly wipe all affected areas with soapy water;
• treat the substrate 2-3 times at weekly intervals with Fitoverm;
• Examine the orchid all month. If you do not find any new individuals, then the problem is solved.

Whiteflies: why the leaves dry out

Phalaenopsis orchids are harmed by both the tiny white butterflies themselves and their larvae. Due to their influence, the flower weakens and the leaves dry out. Adults lay larvae in roots and leaves.

To fix the problem you need:

• wash the orchid and substrate with soapy water;
• spray the plant with Fitoverm solution, repeat after a week.

Aphids: who make it difficult for a plant to breathe

The tiny insects themselves are not as dangerous to the orchid as their excrement. The secretions cover the leaf with a sticky layer, blocking the plant’s breathing and becoming a convenient environment for bacteria and fungi.

The solution is as follows:

• wash the plant with soapy water;
• treat the plant and substrate with Fitoverm solution.

Ticks: who entangled the buds in a web

An orchid can become infected with mites both at home and in a greenhouse. There are 3 varieties spider mites. In fact, they are almost identical and affect the plant in the same way: they make numerous punctures in the leaves through which they suck out the juice. These marks are clearly visible on the leaf blades, which begin to dry, turn white and discolored. The buds are falling.

Eliminating spider mites

• collect all mites from the orchid by hand;
• thoroughly wash the flowerpot and the window sill under it;
• Treat the entire orchid and substrate with Fitoverm solution. Repeat treatment after a week.

Nematodes: what is the reason for growth arrest

Very small nematode worms no larger than 2 mm in size penetrate the stems and roots of the orchid, feed on its juices and poison it with the products of their vital activity. The orchid stops growing and rots.

Phalaenopsis orchids are harmed by both adults and whitefly larvae.
Mite marks cover the entire leaf surface
Mealybug not easy to spot between orchid leaves
In the presence of nematodes, the Phalaenopsis orchid stops its growth
Sticky secretions from aphids make it difficult for orchid leaves to breathe
Thrips suck all the juices out of the orchid

Since the first description of the orchid as a species, it has become an incredibly popular decoration for botanical gardens, greenhouses and home flower beds. Despite their external fragility and tenderness, orchids are quite hardy, and thanks to breeding research, it was possible to develop new varieties adapted to our conditions and it has become easier to grow them at home.

Household orchids are epiphytes - plants that have a root system open type, covered with velamen. Through the porous layer, orchids absorb moisture from the environment and soil; in nature they grow on trees or rocky gorges.

Modern, “domesticated” species can be divided into groups according to the complexity of care:

• For beginner flower growers. These are the most adapted plants: Dendrobium, Phalaenopsis, Epidendrum.
• For advanced gardeners. These are: Brassia, Coelogina, Dendrobium.
• For professional orchid breeders: Cattleya, Miltonia, etc.

According to the type of growth, orchids are sympodial and monopodial. Sympodial plants have horizontally growing shoots united in a rhizome. Peduncles emerge from the shoots, usually one or two (depending on the species of the orchid).

In some sympodial plants, shoots appear with leaves from which flower stalks emerge.

At the base of the shoots there are thickenings - bulbs, which serve to accumulate water and useful substances for future shoots. But the structure of the bulbs differs from classic flower bulbs, so it would be more correct to call them “pseudobulbs.”

The monopodial type includes Ascocenda, Vanda and Phalnopsis orchids. The plant develops from one main shoot, with alternate growth of leaves. Phalaenopsis have thick shoots similar to bamboo, and they also serve for reserve accumulation of moisture and nutrients.

Leaves turn yellow - reasons: improper care

Stressful conditions affect the appearance of the plant - the leaves turn yellow, fall off, become stained, and the flower itself withers. Negative changes are observed with a sharp change in microclimate, low humidity, abundant watering, injury to the rhizome or pest damage.

Yellowing of the lower leaves may be due to aging processes. The dying off of leaves occurs within 2-3 months and affects only the lower tiers. Complete yellowing and seasonal loss of leaves is observed only in dendrobium orchids.

Reasons for yellowing of orchid leaves:

• Natural aging of the leaf. Yellowing of one or two lower leaves with normal coloring is typical for phalaenopsis and paphiopedilum orchids.
• Flaw . The Phalaenopsis orchid is a light-loving species. With a lack of light, the plant can grow for 1-2 years, after which it begins to fade.
• Yellowing of leaves after sunburn. If the flower stood on the south or west side in sunny weather, then yellowed areas appear on the leaves. It is enough to move the orchid to a less illuminated place where the burnt leaf or part of it will dry out.
• Insufficient watering of the orchid. If there is a lack of moisture, the leaves of the flower wrinkle and fall off, but before you start watering, the condition of the roots is assessed - this is not always the reason for the leaves to wither in a dry substrate. Normally, the color of the roots is light green, with a slight pearlescent tint; a change in color indicates disease - they can be caused by harmful insects or fungal infections, rot. If a week after watering the orchid’s condition has not improved, it is recommended to re-examine it.
• Rare but plentiful watering. The substrate should not be overdried or flooded with water. Overmoistening of the roots leads to the development of diseases and yellowing of the leaves, and wilting. Signs of excess moisture in a pot: not only the lower leaves change color; to the touch the leaf becomes less dense and moist, which indicates rotting; appearance dark spots on yellowed leaves; darkening of the roots or the appearance of black spots on them; changes in the stem of the plant - darkening and the appearance of plaque. Visually, it seems that the plant is not fixed in the ground.
• Accelerating flower growth using fertilizers and stimulants. When growing orchids in greenhouses, increased doses of fertilizing are used to accelerate flower growth. After a year or two, the flower becomes exhausted: the growth of new leaves stops, and the old ones begin to turn yellow and fall off. When transplanted into a new soil mixture, the situation does not change, but it is possible to restore the flower. The pot with the plant is transferred to a warm and well-lit place, after which fertilizing is carried out according to the scheme once every 14 days. For the first feeding, use highly diluted regular orchid fertilizer (dilute to 50% concentration). Later, nitrogen fertilizer is used to grow leaves and strengthen them.

Orchid roots are sensitive to potassium and phosphorus based solutions - with a high concentration of the solution, the risk of burns to the root system of the flower increases. In case of overdose, the plant is washed well under warm water. running water, fertilizing should be repeated no earlier than after a month and a half.

In order for the Phalaenopsis orchid to please with its well-groomed appearance and lush flowering, it is necessary to create comfortable conditions for the flower:

1. Place for a potty. Suitable for the plant a place protected from direct sunlight with light shade. This could be a window sill on the western, northeastern or eastern part of the house, or a small table by the window. Phalaenopsis is not a light-loving orchid and with prolonged contact with sunlight, light brown or brown burns form on the leaves.
2. Temperature regime. If you keep the plant in a shaded place at a temperature of 18-25 C, the flowering time increases. The maximum permissible temperature is 35 C; with a prolonged increase in temperature, the leaf density decreases and flowering stops. For normal growth, the optimal temperature ranges from 15-25 C.
3. Humidity percentage. A comfortable air humidity value for phalaenopsis is within 30-40%. An increased value with poor ventilation creates conditions for the development of rot on the root system and leaves, and low humidity affects the tone of the orchid and flowering.
4. . Watering Phalaenopsis is carried out when the substrate is completely dry, but the orchid cannot be kept in aggressive dry conditions. Insufficient hydration root system the plants brighten. Normally, the color of the orchid roots is bright green, and droplets of condensation are visible on the walls of the pot (if it is transparent). It is best to water the orchid by immersing it in water or pouring it over the substrate. It is not advisable to water the leaves - if the water does not high quality, then spots form on their surface. Once a month, it is recommended to wash the surface of the leaves under running water and then wipe them.
5. Fertilizer. It is most convenient to fertilize an orchid when watering, strictly observing the proportions of bait. With excessive and frequent feeding, cracks appear on the leaves.
6. Bloom. To stimulate flowering, it is recommended to keep Phalaenopsis cool and water it less often; it will be enough to spray the substrate with a spray bottle. To extend flowering up to six months, it is enough to adhere to the temperature regime, observe optimal humidity and diffuse lighting. At the end of the flowering period, the peduncle is usually trimmed.
7. Root and leaf care. When the aerial part of the root dies, it is removed. Healthy lower leaves are cleaned under running water and wiped every 20-30 days.
8. . There is no need to replant a recently purchased orchid; it is better to do this after flowering. The substrate is replaced every three years, when it cakes and loses some of its nutritional properties. Included soil mixture bark is included; at low humidity, moss is added to the mixture - it absorbs and retains moisture. Before transplanting, the bark is soaked for 2 days in clean water, after which crushed is added to it. The mixture ready for transplanting can be used during the day.

Leaves turn yellow - causes: diseases

Yellowing of leaves occurs when the root system is damaged by bacteria and fungi. In severe cases, the entire plant becomes infected and dies:

• The causative agent of black rot is a fungus. It spreads quickly and is easily transmitted to healthy orchids.
• With root rot, the roots of the plant are the first to be affected, after which the fungal infection covers the tuberidia and leaves. Appears in the form of black dense spots.
• The causative agents of brown rot are Erwinia and Pseudomonas bacteria. Young flowers are often affected; if the infection covers the growing point and stems, the orchid dies. Appears as brown, watery areas.
• The cause of rust, fusarium, and gray rot is a fungus. First, the leaves turn yellow, then soften and become covered with rot containing spores.
• Among viral diseases, Phalaenopsis are more often affected by Cymbidium mosaic, ring virus, and Cattleya mosaic.

What to do, how to cure an orchid?

To cure an orchid from a viral, bacterial or fungal disease the cause and sources of infection are being clarified. Further treatment tactics are aimed at destroying the diseased plant (if the root, growing point, rhizome is affected) or removing the affected leaves at an early stage of infection.

For infections caused by fungi, treatment with: “Fundazol” 0.2%, “Topsin-M” 0.2% and other drugs is indicated for a period of at least 10 days. For the purpose of prevention, the treatment is repeated after 30 days.

Leaves turn yellow - reasons: pests

Preventing the appearance of harmful insects is much easier than treating the affected plant. It is recommended to check each new plant for the presence of insects - to do this, the top of the pot is wrapped in polyethylene and the flower is immersed in water. Scale insects or nematodes can be identified by examining the substrate.

More information can be found in the video: