Railings are an important part of the stairs, providing safety. On the other hand, they decorate the structure and make it complete and harmonious. You can make wooden railings for the stairs yourself. To do this, you will need basic wood material, fasteners, several important tools, as well as knowledge.

What wood is suitable for construction

By building regulations safety stair railings must withstand a load of 100 kg/m. p. This means that all parts must be securely fastened, and the material must be durable.

The railings are made from hard deciduous trees - beech, ash, oak. Spruce, pine, and larch are also used. It is permissible to use other soft wood, but it must be taken into account that it will shrink more and wear out faster. It is advisable to make all parts from the same type of wood.

Pay attention! The humidity of the wood should not be more than 18% so that the railing parts do not subsequently become deformed.

The appearance of wooden railings varies. But since we are talking about making it yourself, you need to choose a design that you can make.

Design elements and requirements

To do something, you need to imagine in detail what it looks like. The main parts of the railing are:

• balusters. These are durable racks fixed to the steps. They are installed at an equal distance from each other;
• handrails They consist of a top element, which is held by hand, and include a bolster, which is installed on top of the supports;
• a cabinet or pillar is a massive stand to which handrails are attached.

The height of wooden railings, like any other, should be 90–100 cm. It is recommended to keep the distance between supports in the range of 14–21 cm. The exact distance can be calculated based on the width of the steps. If there are small children in the house, then the distance should be chosen smaller so that no one can stick their head between the balusters and fall down or get stuck.

There are also requirements for handrails for wooden stairs. They should be smooth so that no one hurts their hand. The thickness of the railing should be comfortable to hold on to.

Pay attention! The simplest option for making wooden railings is with flat balusters 100 x 30 mm. They are easy to process; you can cut out a pattern, chamfer, or sand them.

If you have experience working on a lathe, you can turn beautiful round balusters. If a lathe is not available, then there is an option - to order individual elements from a carpenter, and then assemble them into a single structure.

What tool will you need?

Preparation of the tool will depend on which parts of the wooden railings will be made by hand. If you order all the parts from specialists, providing them with drawings, this will significantly speed up and simplify the work. All you need is a screwdriver, self-tapping screws, bolts, wood glue, clamps, and a hacksaw. And, of course, a pencil, ruler, corner or level.

It is more convenient to use a modern power tool, which allows you to cut or sand something as quickly as possible. But sometimes it becomes useful hand tools. Thus, the edges of the cuts are often sanded with sandpaper. Correct the shape of the parts with a chisel or cutter.

If you want to make all the details with your own hands, then you need a surface planer and a jointer to trim the bars, slats, and boards. You will need a miter saw, router and lathe woodworking tool or jigsaw (if balusters are cut from thin boards), sanding machine.

General procedure

To make smooth and durable railings with your own hands, you need to draw a drawing with dimensions and calculate the required amount of material. We need to think about how the balusters will be installed. If you are planning a tenon connection, then to grind it you will need to increase the size of the baluster board.

If there are two balusters on one step, then the length of one of them will have to be reduced (since the staircase rises continuously). Exactly how many centimeters the support needs to be reduced depends on the inclination of the stairs.

The manufacturing process can be divided into the following stages:

• taking measurements on the stairs, measuring the width of the tread of the steps (where the foot steps), calculating the number of balusters and the distance between them, the length of the railing;
• drawing up a sketch. On it, each part is numbered and the dimensions of all the main elements are indicated;
• sawing bars to fit balusters;
• turning parts by hand and on a machine to give them the required form, polish;
• production of handrails;
• production of pedestals (support pillars);
• installation of parts on the stairs.

The cabinets are cut from thick bars. They are often decorated with balls at the end or decorative carvings. A regular pole with a cap on top will also look good. They are secured to the floor with thick screws.

Installation of balusters

When constructing a wooden staircase railing, the pedestals are installed first and the balusters are already aligned along them, on top of which the railings are attached.

Bolt-on mounting

The issue of securing balusters on steps deserves special attention. It is best to use bolts for this. First, a hole is drilled in the step and a bolt is screwed in from below.

Balusters are installed along a guide that connects the pillars at the beginning and end of the stairs (as the railings go). You can take a board as a guide and attach supports to it with clamps to make it easier to mark for drilling holes for bolts. For leveling, stretched string or a metal profile is also used.

Each support is numbered, a line for the passage of the railing is drawn on it, and the place where it will stand is marked with a pencil. What is this for? The fact is that after preliminary installation, the balusters will need to be removed and cut at an angle, just like the railings. After this, they are installed in accordance with the numbering. The installation is perfectly smooth and correct.

Advice! All parts can additionally be glued with glue so that the stairs do not creak.

Mounting on chopsticks

Another way to install balusters is using wooden choppers. They are installed in holes drilled in the steps and glued. Holes are drilled in the balusters in accordance with the size of the chop and placed on top, coated with glue. In this case, exclusively wooden fasteners are used.

If there are no strict requirements for appearance, for example, the staircase is located on the street, in a country house, then you can use open fasteners - metal corners.

Through the bar

You can make flat balusters from boards 100 mm wide and 30 mm thick. A pattern is cut out on them using a cutter or jigsaw, sanded, the sections are cleaned with sandpaper, and polished. It is recommended to attach thin flat balusters not directly to the step, but through a block. This will give the structure greater strength.

A railing strip is installed on top of the balusters and the railings are secured. All fastenings can be made with self-tapping screws, tightening them with a screwdriver. In case correct marking This method will take a minimum of time.

Handrails

The handrail can be made from one board if its length does not exceed 1.5 m. Otherwise, you will need to join the parts. This is due to the fact that the structure must be rigid.

To make wooden railings, use a block with a cross-section of at least 60 mm. Its upper part must be rounded. The section itself after processing can have any shape.

Wider railings are made of three parts - a central bar and side slats, which are glued together and clamped with clamps. The resulting box is planed with a plane and milled into shape.

Handmade wooden staircase railings are varnished or treated with stain. You can paint them, but in this case the wood texture will not be visible.

Advice! If the wooden staircase is outdoor, then the railings can be made in an antique style. To do this they are burned blowtorch, go on top with a layer of stain.

There is also the option of curved handrails. The result is more elegant railings, but the work of making them is very difficult. They make bent handrails from sectors, folding them into an arc, carefully adjusting them and connecting them with dowels.

Variety of railings

Stair railings can be combined with other materials, and they are made in a wide variety of configurations. Wooden handrails look especially beautiful in combination with forged metal fencing. Perhaps someone will come up with their own railings that best suit the layout of the existing room.

If the staircase is adjacent to the wall, then the railing is usually made on one side, but sometimes a double-sided design is used. In this case, it is better not to glue the balusters, but only screw them in so that you can remove them and wash the wall or carry out any repair work.

In the very simple version The railings are posts on which a level handrail is placed on top. Perhaps this is where we should begin to master the manufacturing process. If you manage to make a small, narrow railing for the porch garden house, then you can confidently begin construction wooden fence in a cottage or apartment.

Perhaps, any staircase is impossible without a reliable, functional and beautiful fence. Thanks to its presence, ordinary steps acquire an attractive aesthetic appearance and fit harmoniously into any interior.

To such important details, like stair railings and railings, there are almost more requirements than for the stairs themselves. After all, here a thoughtful design must be combined with strength and reliability. But let's talk about everything in order.

Useful information

It is believed that stair railings are mandatory if the structure has more than three steps. This is necessary for comfortable movement and safety. If the staircase is built close to the wall, then you can use so-called wall handrails.

Please note! Wall handrails should be located 5-7 cm from the wall for free movement of the hand.

Important rules for installing railings according to SNiP

We will not consider all the existing rules regulated by SNiP, but will present only the most basic of them.

So here you go brief instructions which must be observed when constructing stairs and:

• According to standards, any stair railing must withstand a minimum load 0.3 kN/m.
• If the width of the staircase exceeds 1200 cm, then the presence of railings on both sides is mandatory. And if the width of the structure is over 2500 cm, then additional dividing railings must be installed in the center.
• It is better to make handrails continuous, without protrusions or gaps. The beginning and end of the handrail should preferably be rounded, protruding 30 cm beyond the steps.
• The height of the staircase railings according to SNiP for different categories of people varies from 700 to 900 cm. But for children, the railings should be no more than 50 cm in height.

What does the stair railing consist of?

Such structures, regardless of the material from which they are made, have the following basic components:

• frame racks;
• filling (balusters), performing protective and decorative functions;
• handrails necessary to provide hand support.

For each type of staircase structure, you need to carefully and rationally select railings and stair railings. Therefore, let's look at the currently popular types of stairs and railings for them.

Types of stairs

• Traditional marching. In this case, stair railings and railings consist primarily of straight structural sections corresponding to the length of one flight. Marching buildings are usually made where there is enough free space.

• With curved marches. It should be noted that the fashion for such stairs is growing and growing every year, thanks to their exclusive characteristics. True, the complexity of manufacturing and, accordingly, the high price prevents their widespread distribution.

• Screw. They allow you to significantly save space, and at the same time become an original component of the overall interior. The main load here falls on a special central post and railings.

Attention! Manufacturing of railings for screw structures associated with certain technological difficulties. And truly high-quality railings can only be made in a specialized workshop or a well-equipped workshop.

Types of stair railings

According to the cross-section, stair railings and fences are:

• round;
• rectangular;
• square.

And if we talk about the materials used for manufacturing, then there is much more types and their features:

1. Without any doubt, the leading position is occupied by stainless steel. It has excellent performance and aesthetic characteristics:

• With all the visual lightness and elegance, stainless steel stair railings are very strong and durable (their average term service life is 30 years - all these years they will retain their original appearance and functionality).

• The high strength of steel railings is achieved due to a unique alloy: its composition includes iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum and nitrogen. Thanks to this combination, steel products acquire amazing resistance to time, temperature changes, precipitation and mechanical damage.

• Steel railings do not need to be periodically cleaned or painted. It is enough just to wipe them occasionally with a damp cloth.

• In addition, the surface of stainless steel fences is covered with a special film, which gives it anti-corrosion properties.

• In case of fire, explosion or attempts to break it, the steel fence will continue to stand firmly in place.

• The cost of these designs is low and will appeal to even the most economical people.

• Steel fencing opens up wide scope for implementation design ideas! With their help, you can create absolutely any style both outside and inside the building. They blend in perfectly with everyone building materials, from wood to granite, and with any decorative elements.

• The areas of application of these products are limitless: input and internal stairs, swimming pools, ramps, balconies, terraces...

1. Glass fencing can rightfully be considered one of the most beautiful design options for stairs! There are two interesting solutions here:

• Order a stair railing with a metal frame and decorative glass inserts.

• Or make a choice in favor of a self-supporting glass fencing made of solid, tempered glass increased strength, without balusters. It is mounted using stainless steel point fasteners into the end of a concrete or wooden floor.

Advice! Experts recommend choosing a self-supporting glass fence 17 mm thick, which consists of two tempered triplex glasses (each 8 mm thick), glued together with a polymer plastic mass or film.

1. Wooden stair railings. Wood itself is a noble material. And therefore, products from it always come out as if “alive”! Especially if it's handmade(that is, the master cut and processed every detail with his own hands). True, such beauty is quite expensive.

Wooden railings are most often used for stairs inside buildings, since this natural material in poor conditions it quickly loses its strength and decorative properties. However, for interior design premises, wood is one of the most suitable, reliable and durable materials.

To create stair railings they are most often used conifers(larch, pine, cedar), as well as walnut, cherry, oak, mahogany. Palette wood materials very extensive and striking with its natural shades.

1. Fascinating forged fences– an excellent solution for buildings decorated in an aristocratic style classic style! And, it should be noted, this is not only a tribute to fashion and aesthetics, but also reliability, proven over centuries. Protective coating from corrosion and special forge paint will protect the forged fence from its only enemy - moisture.

Forged products go well with stairs made of concrete, wood, marble, metal frame, as well as with any other structures finished with modern materials.

Among the range of forged railings you can find both budget models from standard sections and exclusive models hand forged. But no matter what your choice falls on, you will in any case receive a product of excellent quality that will last you a very, very long time!

1. Combined stair railings. If you don’t like standard products made from any one material (steel, wood, glass, forging) or don’t suit your interior, then you can always order custom fencing. In this case, you can combine several materials in one product (for example, glass with metal, or forging with wood) and achieve the desired effect.

For your information! Today you can find whatever your heart desires in stores. In particular, railings for stairs with lighting. LED elements built into the railings are very stylish and unusual.

about the features of roof fencing).

Stair railings are not at all that part of the interior that is determined solely by aesthetic or design requirements. On the contrary, it is this design detail that must meet very specific requirements and is clearly regulated by SNiP and GOST 25772-83.

Railing design

Not only stairs need it, but also a porch, balcony, roof, platform, and so on, and in all cases the requirements for railings are different. This is due to the fact that at different heights and with different methods of operation, the structure must be designed for different degrees of load. At the same time, under different conditions operation involves many different factors: sloped or flat roof, building height, number of residents, number of users, weather conditions, purpose, and so on. All possible cases are regulated by GOST 257672-83.

The fences themselves differ in their design. There are:

• lattice filling of railings, where the space from the stairs to the handrail is filled with metal rods;
• screen - the area is occupied by sheet or slab material;
• combined - lattice and screen filling are combined.

Solutions can have very high aesthetics if desired. However, the type of filling is not chosen arbitrarily: the instructions for fencing stairs GOST 25772-83 indicate exactly which structures can be used and where.

Fence sizes

There is a fairly large number of different staircase structures, as well as landings and balconies. It is not surprising that there are quite a lot of railings. Moreover, the standard offers not only restrictions, but also design drawings of all types. Steel fencing for balconies and roofs in accordance with GOST 25772-83 should be as follows.

• The internal staircase structure in a residential or non-residential building is fenced with railings 90 cm high. Various fillings are allowed - lattice, screen, but the choice here depends on the purpose of the building. Yes, in residential apartment building the filling is usually lattice. But in a shopping center, where it is necessary to protect not only the stairs, but also the observation deck, screen filling is necessary. The photo shows the internal staircase structure.

• The exception is the staircase structure in schools and boarding schools: the height of the railing here is in any case at least 120 cm. The filling is allowed with a lattice of vertical balusters, but with a small gap between them - 10 cm.
• Railing in preschool institution always 120 cm. Filling only with vertical balusters, since horizontal rods easily turn into steps for children. The distance between the vertical rods is no more than 10 cm, as otherwise there is a high risk of getting stuck. In preschool and school institutions for mentally handicapped children, the height of the railings increases to 180 cm. Horizontal rods, as well as screen filling, are excluded.

External staircases must have railings. Best made of metal at a height of 120 cm.

Landings are fenced according to the same classification:

• internal – the height of the railing reaches 90 cm;
• external – height is 120 cm;
• in preschool exercises, the railings are also located at a height of 120 cm.

When producing stairs it is impossible to ignore such important element structures like railings. This mandatory component of the stair railing performs several functions at once: useful functions– increases the safety and comfort of the system, and also gives the staircase structure a complete aesthetic form.

This article will further tell you what types of handrails for stairs are most popular today, as well as how to install them yourself, following the installation instructions. Also presented to your attention are great photos railings and a useful video on how to install them yourself.

Handrails play an important role in the entire staircase railing - they provide not only comfortable movement, but are also a decorative element of the staircase structure

Railings for stairs in the house - classification by type

Railing is an element of the stair railing, which is responsible for the convenience and safety of human movement along flights of stairs. In addition, handrails are also a stylish, eye-catching decoration for the step structure itself.

Today on construction market there is an incredible variety of ready-made railings for stairs in a private house

When designing a stair railing, you need to know what main types of railings exist in the construction of these systems. Today, the most popular types of handrails among consumers are:

The most popular and often used by developers are wooden, metal and wrought iron railings. Let's talk about these types in more detail.

Forged railings are very impressive, but only a professional craftsman can make them

Metal

Very often in country houses you can find stairs with metal railings. They are placed on stepped structures made of various materials– concrete, metal, wood, plastic and so on.

Fences made of stainless light metal have many advantages - they are convenient, comfortable and inexpensive

For making metal fence The following types of metal are used:

• steel;
• aluminum;
• cast iron;
• brass and others.

Aluminum, for example, is good because it is not afraid of corrosion and is also easy to install.

Aluminum handrails can be easily made with your own hands if you have aluminum profile and everyone necessary tools

Forged

Forged railings are openwork, weightless and very beautiful. However, only those craftsmen who are familiar with blacksmithing can make them. Therefore, if you dream of this particular type of stair railing in your home, then you will have to contact a professional craftsman in order to order these magnificent products.

Openwork and fabulously beautiful wrought iron railings will make the staircase in the house the center of everyone's attention.

Wooden

The most common material for stair railings at all times has been wood. This popularity is due to the many undoubted advantages of this material, including:

• environmental safety;
• beautiful natural view;
• ease of processing and installation;
• economical price;
• long service life.

Wooden railings are the most popular among developers, since it is difficult to find a more comfortable and beautiful natural material

In addition, wooden railings are unusually comfortable and pleasant to the touch. It is this material that is most preferable for making a fence with your own hands. Therefore, later in the article we will consider step by step instructions on installing wooden railings on your home staircase.

Main fencing components

Before you start installing the railings yourself, you need to have an idea of ​​what these parts are and what components they include.

Making wooden railings with your own hands is only possible for those who have certain carpentry skills; it is much more convenient to purchase ready-made products in a store

So, handrails wooden stairs consist of:

• two main support posts;
• balusters;
• handrails;
• decorative elements.

The photo below shows a diagram of the fence with an image of its main components.

Before you begin installing the railing yourself, study this diagram showing all the components of the stair railing

DIY handrail installation instructions

The entire process of installing handrails from natural wood consists of the following basic steps:

1. Calculation of handrails.
2. Preparation of materials and equipment.
3. Installation.
4. Decoration.

Let's look at each of these points in more detail.

Even such magnificent railings can be made with your own hands, if you apply maximum patience and effort to it.

Design

At the very beginning of work, you should clearly imagine what the railing for your stairs should be like. Then sketch your vision on paper. In this case, you can also use ready-made design drawings, of which there are a lot on the Internet.

Sketch the fence before installing it or use a ready-made drawing

It is important to remember that the height of the fence for its comfortable operation should not be lower than 90 centimeters.

After this, you can safely go to the nearest construction supermarket to buy the necessary components for the railings.

For all the necessary fencing components, go to the nearest construction market

It should be noted that it is not at all necessary to buy wooden blanks and then cut handrails out of them. Today on the construction market you can find a huge variety of different finished products. You can simply choose your favorite ones.

Another idea for fencing to your staircase structure, which you can use during installation

Preparing components and tools

For more efficient work Make sure in advance that all the necessary components and tools are at hand.

So, to install the railings you will need:

• electric drill with drills;
• jigsaw;
• screwdriver;
• hacksaw;
• screwdriver set;
• hammer;
• chisel;
• building level.

In addition to tools, you definitely need to stock up on wooden blanks for railings

Installation

This stage is the most labor-intensive and responsible. Follow this step-by-step instructions:

1.On the staircase structure, take measurements and make marks on the places where you will have racks. At the same time, remember the basic requirements for railings:

2. We proceed to the installation of two load-bearing racks, for which we use a drill to make recesses (holes) up to 1 cm in the treads.

When installing balusters, ensure that certain standard requirements are met, including that the distance between products is at least 15 cm

3. We stretch a fishing line or rope between the installed posts, focusing on the markings made for the balusters.

4. We proceed to the installation of the balusters themselves, installing them evenly using a level.

Balusters can be very diverse in shape and style, you can choose the option you like in a hardware store

5. At this step, we mark the railings and make holes in them for attaching to the balusters.

6. Screw the railings to the balusters.

This figure shows the principle of attaching the fence to the staircase system

Decoration

At this final stage, we eliminate all burrs and roughness that arose during installation using sandpaper or grinder. Then we coat the installed railings with varnish or paint them with wood paint.

Be sure to complete the work on installing the fence with decorative measures to treat the handrails with varnish or paint

Video: installing a wooden handrail on a staircase with your own hands

Beautiful and reliable staircase structures With magnificent railings already installed, you can purchase them in the Staircase Master online store at the lowest and affordable prices in Moscow and the Moscow region.

The assembly of the staircase railings is completed by installing the handrail. Not everyone knows how to fasten a handrail, how to do it correctly, reliably and discreetly. We will describe some common methods for wooden and metal stairs here.

Attaching a handrail to the balusters of a wooden staircase

It turns out that wooden railings are the most difficult to make. That's because there are a lot different ways and there are almost no techniques for working with wood ready-made solutions, since each staircase is individual and has its own characteristics. For example, attaching a handrail to balusters can be done using dowels, self-tapping screws, nails, bolts, special ties (zipbolts), and glue. In addition, you can “mount” the railing directly on the balusters and posts, but there are options with an additional strip, which is sometimes called a “rail rail.” And all of these are the “correct” ways to connect the posts to the handrail. We will talk about how to do this in this section.

First of all, cut a piece of the handrail to the required length. This can be a fragment from one support pillar to another, a piece for the entire span - from the upper/lower pillar until the moment of turning. It all depends on the design of the staircase. If there are joints between two fragments, they must be processed well, achieving a perfect match. Then the handrails for the street need to be covered protective impregnations, and then paint/varnish. Afterwards you can deal with the issues of attaching the handrail to the stairs.

How to trim balusters for installing handrails

After installing the balusters on the steps, their tops are at different levels, and without trimming the handrail cannot be installed on them - it does not fit like that. To install a support handrail on a staircase, you must top part cut the posts at a certain angle. This angle is determined by the steepness of the flight of stairs and does not need to be calculated. It is determined “on the spot”.

To find the cutting angle of the balusters, you can use a thread stretched between the support posts. We tie it at the same distance from the tops of the pillars, which are installed at the top and bottom of the span. Where, according to the plan, the lower border of the handrail will pass. Using this stretched thread, we draw a line with a pencil onto the tops of the posts. You can use a thread instead of a thread, or you can also temporarily secure a guide (any flat strip).

This is how it should turn out - the staircase railings are ready for installing handrails

We got the line, now we saw off the tops of the columns on the stairs strictly along it. Next, you can continue attaching the handrail to balusters or posts.

Allow me one piece of advice: if for the subsequent installation of the railing you need to drill holes for dowels or studs, it is better to do this before trimming. This makes it easier to find the center, easier to hold the drill perpendicular. After the holes are made, you can take a saw/jigsaw and file along the intended markings of the rack.

Connecting balusters and railings with dowels and threaded rods

Let's consider one of the traditional methods: attaching the handrail using dowels or pins. For this type of connection, it is necessary to make matching holes in the handrail and staircase railing posts. If you install studs, you can screw them into the holes made in the center of the balusters and install the handrail in the position in which it should stand. After checking that everything is in place correctly, walk along the handrail, tapping each baluster with your fist. The protruding ends of the metal pins will leave a mark on the back of the handrail. Remove the handrail and mark the resulting marks with a marker/pencil for reliability. Now you can drill the holes. With this method of marking the handrail, there are almost no problems with its “fitting” into place.

The second option for marking the handrail for installing pins and dowels is carried out before they are installed in the balusters. First of all, we put the cut piece of the handrail in place. Then, with a pencil, mark on both sides where the balusters are installed. Before making marks, check the distance between adjacent posts below and near the handrail. If they match, everything is fine, we put marks; if not, we adjust the position of the rack and only then make marks. Adjustments are needed to ensure that all the staircase supports are vertical. This will make the railing more secure.

After all the balusters are marked, remove the handrail. WITH reverse side The marks we made are worth it. We draw diagonals between the pairs of lines that outline the baluster. We put a mark at the place where they intersect. Here you will need to drill a hole for a dowel or pin. We find the centers on the balusters in the same way (if there are no holes in them yet). As you understand, with this method of marking the handrail for the railing, problems can arise - the slightest inaccuracy and the handrail does not fit into the post. The good news is that the baluster can be moved within certain limits. As long as it is not fixed, there is a certain freedom, and this can be used when installing the railing. Just move it so that the tenon fits into the groove. In general, you know how to attach handrails to dowels.

To make the installation of the railing more reliable, in addition to dowels or studs, you can coat the connection with glue. This will make the structure more rigid and extend its service life without backlash.

With an auxiliary bar - support rail

Agree that the most easy installation handrails on balusters - through screws or nails. What stops you from making such a decision? An overly unsightly result in the form of fastener caps that spoil the whole look. But there is a very similar method that guarantees good appearance stair railings. An auxiliary bar is used, which is also called a bolster.

The auxiliary strip is cut with a tenon, which in mirror image repeats the shape of the groove in the lower part of the handrail. The flat side is placed on sawn balusters and fastened through (screws or nails - your choice). Don't forget to check the distances between adjacent posts.

Then the upper part of the support is coated with glue and the handrail is “planted”. All. There are no traces of fasteners on the front of the handrail, everything is holding together. The only thing that needs to be taken into account is that the height of the handrail turns out to be slightly larger, since the thickness of the auxiliary plank is added (if the plank is wooden, this is at least 2-3 cm).

There is another way to attach the handrail to the support rail - with small nails or self-tapping screws from below, at an angle. But with this fastening, the caps are visible. They can be disguised using one of the known methods, but it will take a long time...

The easiest way is to screw it with self-tapping screws

As you know, over time, wooden railings become “loose” due to the fact that under load they wobble, the wood fibers become crushed, and play appears. To reduce the possibility of play, when fastening through a plank, two or more screws/nails can be used for each baluster. This will make the handrail mount more rigid.

Also, for greater reliability, the bar can be made of metal. Anyone will do, thin metal. Be it steel or aluminum. But then it will be necessary to either cut the bar to fit the size of the recess in the handrail, or modify the groove so that the handrail fits well on the structure. And one more thing: if the plank is metal, you need to find a universal glue that glues wood and metal well. This handrail mount for stairs is simple, beautiful, and reliable. Suitable for those who decided to make a stair railing with their own hands for the first time.

For spikes of different shapes

It is possible to install a wooden handrail without metal fasteners: with spikes and glue. Spikes are cut at the top of the balusters. Under them, recesses of the same shape are formed in the handrail. Tenon/groove shape - any. It can be a rhombus, a rectangle, a circle, an oval. The main thing is that the tenon and groove match perfectly. This can be achieved by making a template and repeating it exactly on each fragment. Minimum height the tenon is 2.5 cm, so the height of the handrail cannot be less than 4.5 cm.

After a tenon is formed on each baluster and a groove is cut in the corresponding place on the handrail, they are glued. When installing the handrail on the balusters, they can be shifted slightly to align the holes. You can use the installed handrail after the glue has dried (the time is on the package).

Connection between handrail and support post

Often the handrail does not go on top of the post, but is connected to its side edge. How to connect the handrail and the post in this case? The easiest way is to, after cutting the handrail at the desired angle, fasten it with self-tapping screws or nails driven in at an angle. The disadvantages are obvious - the fastener heads are visible.

There is another way - to use a zip bolt, which consists of two movably connected studs and a gearbox. For its installation, a technological hole is required, which is made in the lower part of the handrail. It is then covered with a plug to match the wood and it becomes almost invisible. The second advantage of such a connection: it can be tightened (to a certain extent) if suddenly a backlash appears.

You also need to drill holes for the studs under the zipbolt - one in the post and one in the handrail. The technological hole is usually made in the handrail. It is positioned so that it is possible to tighten the thread under the gearbox (the length of this thread is usually 10 mm). The depth of the holes is the size of the studs (from the joint to the edge), the diameter is 1-2 mm less than the diameter of the stud.

IN drilled holes studs are installed. It is screwed into the post and simply inserted into the handrail. A gearbox is installed in the prepared technological hole, in which there is a hole for a hex key (6 mm). We rotate the gearbox so that it is convenient to use the key. Turn the key and tighten the thread, pulling the handrail to the post. This must be done after the balusters are connected to the handrail. By attaching the handrail to the post, you can assume that the railing is installed.

Installing handrails on prefabricated metal fencing

In general, assembling handrails from metal (stainless, nickel-plated, chrome-plated) pipes is similar to a construction set. There are pipes different diameters, decorative elements to them, and a whole set various fastenings. The railings are assembled from all these parts. That’s why they are called “prefabricated”. When deciding how to attach handrails to metal balusters/posts/racks, your task is to choose those elements that suit your task better than others or that you like more than others.

To connect metal posts/balusters to the handrail, there are special ends that are attached to a round/square/rectangular pipe on one side and to the handrail on the other. There are models different types. You just need to find the most suitable one, choose the one you need: according to the size of the racks and the type of handrail.

In metal prefabricated fences, handrails can be different:

• round metal pipe;
• profile (rectangular, square) metal pipe;
• plastic handrail (round, oval or original shape);
• wooden of any profile.

Under each of these handrails there is a fastening, and usually more than one. Choose what you like. Fastening them is simple: clamping bolts. But, for reliability, and if the thickness of the metal allows, all connections of two metal parts weld. - it’s not an easy thing, but if you know how to handle welding machine, nothing is impossible about this. Welding takes longer, but such fastening of the handrail will be very reliable.

When connecting elements metal stairs with plastic or wood, you must use the fasteners recommended by the manufacturers. Additionally, you can glue the joints universal glue. True, in the case of stainless steel, there is no particular point in this: the grip will be very low. But still...

Attaching a handrail to a welded or forged stair railing

Forged or welded fence Usually a wooden handrail is installed. In its lower part, a cut is made according to the dimensions of the upper lintel of the finished fence. The seating depth of the handrail is about 2 cm. More or less is possible - it depends on your desire. The railings are connected to the handrail with self-tapping screws, which are screwed through the holes in the upper lintel. It is important to choose the length of the fastener: it should be slightly (at least 5 mm) less than the height of the handrail so that the screw does not stick out on the surface.

In this case, installing a handrail on the stairs is simple:

There is also the possibility of gluing a wooden handrail to welded or forged metal railings. When choosing a glue, you need to make sure that it can connect wood and metal. For external stairs (on, for example), you must also pay attention to the range of operating temperatures. Otherwise there are no difficulties:

• apply glue according to instructions;
• press the parts, secure with clamps;
• leave until the glue dries;
• remove the clamps.

To securely attach a handrail to a steel staircase, you can use both of these methods. One does not interfere with the other.

Methods for attaching a stair handrail to a wall

A handrail is attached to the wall if the width of the steps on the stairs exceeds 120 cm. The second handrail is made of the same material and the same shape as on the balusters, but it is attached to the wall.

To install the handrail on the wall, there are a number of fastenings - brackets - under different profile(round, oval, figured). On one side of the fastener there is a round or square fragment with flat surface and holes made in it. We install this part on the wall. We select fasteners depending on the material from which the wall is made. We use self-tapping screws if the walls are wooden, dowels for walls made of concrete and brick, and special dowels for fastening to lightweight concrete.

The number and size of fasteners for installing a stair handrail on a wall are selected based on reliability considerations. Manufacturers make at least four holes on each bracket. Here are four self-tapping screws/dowels/nails for each and we install them. When choosing a length, it is better to proceed from the considerations “the longer, the better.” Still, the wall handrail can bear a significant load, so it’s better to be safe than to fly down...

Second part for wall mount stair railings - where the handrail itself is attached - can be different. There may be a ring of a certain diameter for round pipes; there is usually a flat platform for rectangular or square handrails. This part of the stair handrail bracket also has holes so that the railing can be secured. And in this case, the number of fasteners should be equal to the number of holes (for the same reasons).

There are brackets for wall mounting of handrails with different angles tilt They are chosen based on their own ideas about convenience and the planned height of the support. There are also telescopic models that allow you to set the distance to the wall and/or the angle of inclination. There are also end wall brackets, which, while fixing the edges of the handrail, also decorate them.

The number of brackets depends on the length of the handrail. Usually one element is placed at the edges, and between them a calculated number, with a distance of 40-60 cm. The lower the load-bearing capacity of the wall, the more often we install wall holders for railings