A table with your own hands can easily be made even by a home craftsman who does not have any accumulated experience in carpentry. Of course, this will become possible if the design of the table is quite simple and understandable.
For example, find a suitable finished model table for a kitchen that is extremely small in size does not always work. Purchasing custom-made solid wood furniture is quite expensive. Therefore, sometimes you have to take up the tools and construct your own “work” yourself, starting from the specific dimensions of the place where you plan to install the table.
In addition, there is often a desire to express one’s creativity in the conditions of a dacha, especially since there is always a desire to beautifully arrange a veranda or gazebo in a suburban area. If you have suitable materials and tools at hand, then you can either sit down to draw up a drawing of the future table, or use finished project and then get to work.
To figure out which type of table you can build with your own hands, it is advisable to consider several options for this piece of furniture.
Tools for work
Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the appropriate tools that will be required for the manufacture of any wooden table. The amount of material for each model will be different.
You can use regular, traditional hand tools, which carpenters have always worked with. This list usually includes:
- A plane used to level wood and cut parts to the required size.
- Chisels for sampling various holes and grooves, removing small protrusions.
- Saws different sizes and modifications that are used to cut thick boards or make small cuts.
- Pencil, tape measure, corner and ruler.
- Screwdriver set.
- Clamps for temporary fixation of glued parts.
- Sandpaper for sanding.
Many of the tools can be replaced with more modern and convenient devices:
- An electric jigsaw will do all the work that the various saws mentioned above were previously used for.
Rating of jigsaws - A sanding machine will help make surfaces smooth and polish them to a shine, eliminating a very tedious procedure. manual processing sandpaper.
- Milling machine with a set of cutters. This device will help round sharp corners, drill shaped grooves for furniture hinges, and if you need it and have some experience, you can use it to decorate a table with a relief pattern.
- will significantly speed up the work, since you won’t have to spend several minutes tightening each screw. In addition, during certain operations it is possible to install one of the milling cutters or ordinary drills in it, for example, in order to process an edge or make a perfectly even large or small hole (groove).
- The construction level will help make the product even and neat, as it will show all possible irregularities and distortions.
To ready-made furniture did not turn out “skewed”, the assembly is controlled by level An easy-to-make table for a summer cottage
Make a similar one country table- everyone can do it Required materials
For such a country house, having a tabletop size of 1680×850 mm, you will not need too much wooden blanks. You need to prepare the following:
- Beam, cross-section - 750×100×50 mm - 4 pcs. (table legs).
- Self-tapping screws, bolts and possibly metal corners.
- Wood glue.
- Board size:
- 1680×100×25 mm – 4 pcs. (longitudinal frame elements);
- 850×100×25 mm – 2 pcs. (transverse frame parts);
- 1580×100×25 mm – 2 pcs. (cladding boards for the side elements of the frame);
- 950×100×25 mm – 17 pcs. (boards for tabletops).
All wooden elements must be treated with compounds and have prepared smooth surface. If you plan to “darken” the wood, then it is covered with stain, and to reveal the textured pattern, carefully go over the top grinder. Fine-grit sandpaper will remove the stained, raised parts of the wood grain, making them lighter than the depressions.
Installation of a garden table
When all the parts for the frame are prepared, you can proceed to assembly.
Frame or “box” of the table - The first step is the details of the tabletop frame - four longitudinal boards measuring 1680x100x25 mm and two end boards 850x100x25 mm, laid out on big table or on the floor. The location of the internal and external boards is marked on the end boards. Using a ruler, based on the drawing, the required distances are measured and marked with a pencil. It is imperative to accurately mark the width of the longitudinal board at the junction with the end board, especially if the connection will be made using the tie-in method.
The elements can be connected in different ways:
Connection with a choice of “quarters” and using metal corners - with the help steel angle- this is the simplest and reliable way;
— the insertion method is more the hard way, since it requires precise dimensions not only in the width and length of the connecting elements, but also in the depth of the board;
Several types of joints based on the tongue-and-groove principle - “groove-tenon”, shown in the second figure a), b), c), d) and e) such a connection is also quite difficult for novice craftsmen with no experience;
- connection with dowels is shown in fragment e) - this method also requires perfect accuracy when marking and drilling holes in the parts to be connected.
- All connections are usually made using glue. The only exception is the fastening of parts end-to-end with a metal corner.
- The frame must have perfectly aligned right angles, so after connecting all the elements, you need to carry out control using a construction angle and measuring and comparing the lengths of the diagonals.
- If parts are secured with glue, they must be fixed in clamps and left until it dries completely, otherwise they will not be connected securely.
- When the glue dries and the frame acquires a certain rigidity, facing boards measuring 1580 × 100 × 25 mm are attached to the outer longitudinal sides. The place of their attachment also needs to be marked, since there should be a distance along their edges for mounting the legs. The facing boards are also installed with glue and fixed with self-tapping screws, the heads of which should be recessed into the wood by 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.
- The next stage is the transverse cladding of the tabletop with boards 950×100×25 mm. The place where they are attached must also first be marked, starting from the middle of the frame, since they must be installed at a distance of 5 mm from each other. The protrusion of the tabletop above the frame should be 25 mm on all four sides.
- Next, each of the boards is fixed in four places to longitudinal elements“boxes” of the table, and the outer boards also to the end sides. In order for the heads of the self-tapping screws to be recessed, recesses with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled into the boards to a depth of 2–3 mm, then, in the center of these recesses, through holes are drilled with a drill of a smaller diameter (usually 3 mm), into which the self-tapping screws will be screwed. To avoid cracking of the boards when installation work, through holes must be drilled.
- After this, legs made of timber with a cross-section of 750×100×50 mm are attached to the edges of the longitudinal boards; they must exactly match the width of the tabletop.
The next step is installing the legs - The legs can be secured to the frame with self-tapping screws, but it is better to fix each of them with two bolts, placing them diagonally at the connection point. Through holes are drilled for the bolts, and the nuts are tightened on them from inside the frame using a wrench.
- The final stage of manufacturing is sealing the heads of the screws with a mixture made from carpentry or epoxy glue and sawdust. Use this homemade putty to fill the recesses above the caps and level them well. After the glue has dried, the entire tabletop, and especially the areas covered with “plugs” of glue, must be sanded well.
- After this, the table can be varnished or painted water based. After waiting for the decorative or protective layer to dry, the product can be installed in dacha gazebo, on the veranda or terrace in the recreation area.
If desired, it would be easy to make a bench to go along with the table.
Small folding table for the kitchen
This small folding table is perfect for a small kitchen or a very small room.
- Its design is designed in such a way that the tabletop cannot fold on its own if the table leg is accidentally touched, so the table is quite safe for installation in a children's room.
- The presence of a spacious double-sided bedside table will allow you to store various small items and small toys in it.
- The table is equipped with a tabletop of sufficient size so that the child can do homework while sitting at it.
- In addition, there is room on the tabletop for a laptop or books necessary for study.
- If necessary, this small table can easily be replaced ironing board, if you lay a soft cloth on its surface.
Considering all of the above, the table can be called multifunctional, despite its very compact size.
Find out how, and also check out several models with detailed instructions, in a special article on our portal.
Necessary materials and parts for a folding table
To assemble such a convenient piece of furniture, you need to prepare all the parts that make it up. The list of necessary blanks is given in the table below, and how to make them will be described and shown below:
Table diagram with numbers marked assembly parts(illustration is clickable - click to enlarge) | Part number on the drawing | Part name | Quantity, pcs. | Part size, mm | Material of manufacture, thickness, mm |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Folding part of the table top. | 1 | 600×600 | |
| 2 | Fixed table top of the cabinet. | 1 | 600×475 | Multilayer plywood 25 mm thick |
| 3 | 2 | 530×30 | ||
| 4 | 2 | 120×30 | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick | |
| 5 | The upper end part of the groove that limits the movement of the leg. | 1 | 122×30 | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick |
| 6 | Groove element for leg movement on a folding tabletop. | 2 | 530×20 | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick |
| 7 | A groove element for the movement of the leg on the tabletop of the cabinet. | 2 | 120×20 | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick |
| 8 | The lower end part of the groove that limits the movement of the leg. | 1 | 122×20 | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick |
| 9 | Side walls of the table cabinet. | 2 | 720×520 | MDF 19 mm |
| 10 | Horizontal parts of the cabinet forming shelves. | 3 | 520×312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 11 | The lower vertical part of the internal partition of the cabinet. | 1 | 418×312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 12 | The upper vertical part of the inner partition of the cabinet. | 1 | 312×184 | MDF 19 mm |
| 13 | The middle horizontal part of the cabinet. | 1 | 310×250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 14 | Cabinet door. | 1 | 477×346 | MDF 19 mm |
| 15 | Cabinet shelf. | 1 | 310×250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 16 | Cabinet drawer front panel. | 1 | 346×209 | MDF 19 mm |
| 17 | The front panel of the drawer (located behind the front panel). | 1 | 418×312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 18 | Drawer side panels. | 2 | 341×250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 19 | Back panel of the drawer. | 1 | 272×120 | MDF 19 mm |
| 20 | Drawer bottom panel. | 1 | 341×272 | MDF 19 mm |
| Handles for drawers and cabinet doors. | 2 | Ø 30 mm | Wood | |
| Upper leg element. | 1 | 80×80×18 | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick | |
| Mobile table leg. | 1 | Ø top 55, bottom 30, height 702 | Wood | |
| Furniture hinges for connecting two parts of the tabletop. | 2 | Ø 50 mm | Metal | |
| Furniture door hinges. | 2 | The size depends on the shape. | Metal | |
| Bottom end panels covering the gap under the cabinet. | 2 | 20×300×5 | Plywood 5 mm |
The drawings show a drawing of a table that can be relied upon in the process of manufacturing and assembling elements into a single structure.
Main dimensions of the table (illustration is clickable - click to enlarge) 
Separate components of the table - a drawer and a guide channel for moving the legs (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge) To manufacture all the parts listed in the table, you will need modern electric tools that can bring the workpiece to professional perfection.
Find out how to do it with a photo and description in a special article on our portal.
Installation of a folding table-cabinet
You should start making a table with its most important and largest part - the table top. Since the table is folding, this element will consist of two parts - stationary and “mobile”, that is, one that can be folded down if necessary. When folded, this table can easily serve as a regular compact cabinet.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | The first step is to make 25 mm thick plywood using a jigsaw or circular saw, it is necessary to cut blanks for the tabletop, measuring 600×600 and 600×475 mm. |
 | Next, markings are made on the larger panel - a semicircle is drawn, since the front of the table should be rounded. In order to achieve correct form semicircle, you can use a large construction compass, or make it yourself - from a nail, pencil and rope. |
 | Then, along the marked line, the tabletop is rounded. This can be done using a jigsaw or circular saw, installing the appropriate compass attachment on it. |
 | Next, a cutter of the desired configuration is installed on the milling machine, which will make the edges of the tabletop smooth, or, if desired, even or rounded. |
 | The semicircular part of the panel is processed with a milling cutter, leaving the side that will join the second part of the tabletop flat. Then its edges are processed in the same way. |
 | The next step is to place the two processed parts of the tabletop on a flat table at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Markings are being made for installation furniture hinges. They must be placed at a distance of 100-120 mm from the edge of the tabletop. Furniture hinges can have different shapes, so they should be laid in the marked place and outlined with a simple pencil. Then, using a router, special shaped grooves are made in the plywood, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the furniture hinges. The hinges are fixed into the finished holes using self-tapping screws. |
 | After connecting the two parts of the tabletop with hinges, in the middle of the panels, markings are made on their lower side to secure the parts that will form a closed channel for the movement of the moving table leg. The guides should be fixed at a distance of 30 mm from the junction of the two parts of the tabletop. For the manufacture of parts, plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is taken. Then, 10 elements are cut out of it and processed with a milling cutter: 530×30 mm in size - 2 pieces, 530×20 mm - 2 pieces, 120×30 mm - 2 pieces, 122×30 mm - 1 piece, 120× 20 mm - 2 pcs., 122×20 mm - 1 pc. It is important to remember here that long slats should have 45˚ cuts on one edge, and short elements on both sides, so that when joined, they form a right angle. In addition, the upper long and short parts, fixed on top of the lower rails of the guides, are cut off from the ends, also at an angle of 45˚. These cuts are necessary so that their angles do not interfere with the movement of the leg along the formed channel. Then, the parts are glued with wood glue to the marked area of the rounded, and then to the rectangular part of the tabletop. First, the longest slats measuring 530×20 mm are fixed with glue and then screwed with self-tapping screws; then a piece of 122×20 mm covers the channel. On top of the long and short fixed slats, second ones are glued, having the same length, but greater width; they are also additionally screwed with self-tapping screws. Thus, an even channel is formed between the tabletop and the top rail, along which the leg will move. It is very important to calculate the location of the places where the screws are screwed in so that the top ones do not collide with those that secure the bottom slats. Four parts are fastened to the rectangular part of the tabletop in the same way. All elements must be processed until smooth and perfectly evenly fastened to each other, otherwise the leg will bump into obstacles and jam when moving. |
 | The leg is usually made using lathe. If it is not there, then you can order it from a master or purchase it ready-made. As a last resort, you can make it square by processing the timber of the required height until smooth. Then, using a dowel and glue, a square plywood guide plate measuring 80x80x18 mm is attached to the upper end of the leg using a dowel and glue. |
 | Next, after the glue has dried, the leg can be installed in the channel intended for it and tested for its free movement, without jamming. If necessary, minor adjustments and modifications can be made. |
 | The finished tabletop is painted or coated with water-based varnish - if the goal is to preserve the textured pattern of the plywood. After this, the finished tabletop is put aside and proceed to the manufacture of the cabinet. |
 | The elements of the cabinet do not have complex configurations, therefore, to make them, it is enough to accurately transfer the dimensions of the parts indicated in the table on an MDF panel or thick plywood and carefully cut them out using a jigsaw or saw. After the parts are made, their end parts must be processed smoothly with a milling cutter, otherwise they will look sloppy. |
 | If you plan to cover the visible end parts of the cabinet parts with a special laminated edge tape, then this process is carried out using a regular iron. The tape on its inner side has a layer of glue, which heats up under the influence of heat and provides reliable fixation edges on the surface of the end parts of MDF panels. |
 | The next step in the cabinet door panel is to make shaped grooves into which furniture hinges will be installed and secured. The holes are made in the same way as in the countertop using a milling cutter, but in this case the milling cutter can also be installed in a screwdriver, since MDF has a lower density than plywood and is easier to process without chipping the material. The hinges should be placed at a distance of 100 mm from the edges of the door - before starting drilling, it is necessary to carry out careful markings. A similar procedure is carried out with the wall of the cabinet on which the door will be attached. Then the walls and doors are joined together to check the correct installation and to mark holes for the screws. |
 | In addition to the hinges, you can immediately screw the prepared handle to the door. To do this, stepping back 50 mm from the edge of the panel and finding a convenient height position, mark the point through which to drill through hole to secure the handle. |
 | All manufactured parts of the cabinet are painted with paint of the selected color using a roller and brush. Paint will not only make the product aesthetically attractive, but will also protect the material from negative influence specific kitchen humid environment. |
 | Next, you can proceed to assembling the bedside table. Professionals carry out this process using special tools, but they can be easily replaced with improvised devices. For example, you can carry out the assembly on a flat table, and for ease of installation of the cabinet, it is additionally installed on flat bars. Mutual fastening of parts can be done using wooden dowels, metal furniture corners or self-tapping screws - the latter option is the simplest, but also the most unreliable. In addition, the screw heads will have to be masked with various compounds after assembly. The assembly process proceeds as follows: - The bottom panel is placed on the stands. - One of the side panels is leveled on it and using a construction angle, and its location is marked with a pencil. -The location of the fastening parts is immediately marked on the horizontal and vertical panels. - Exactly the same procedure is carried out with the second side and dividing middle wall. - Then holes are drilled at the marked points on the bottom and the end sides of the side panels for installing dowels. - After this, before gluing the parts together, locations for installing shelves are determined on the side walls. Then, shelf support brackets are mounted in the marked places, for which holes are also drilled. - Next, dowels coated with glue are installed in the holes drilled in the bottom, and the side walls are put on their upper, protruding part. - Fixed shelves-lintels are mounted in the same way, simultaneously with the side walls. |
 | Before continuing work, you need to make sure that the glue is in assembled structure dried well. To make the cabinet stand more rigidly, it is laid on its side and pressed with clamps while it dries. |
 | While the glue dries, you can start assembling the drawer. Since it will be completely assembled from MDF, the installation of the box can also be carried out using dowels. The sides are attached to the bottom of the box, and a line is drawn along them with a pencil, and then marks are made of the places where the dowels will be installed. Then, the sidewalls are removed, and at the marked places, holes are drilled in their end for installing fasteners. The same is done on the bottom panel. Next, the dowels are coated with glue and carefully inserted into the holes, connecting the sides to the bottom. |
 | The sidewalls are screwed together using self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recommended to be recessed into the wood, and the holes to be sealed with a mixture of epoxy glue and sawdust. Another fastening option can be furniture corners, which are screwed from the inside to the sides with self-tapping screws. Each side will require two corners. |
 | When assembling the box, it is necessary to control the evenness of its corners using a construction angle and changing the diagonals, otherwise a skew may occur. |
 | If you plan to install metal roller guides for light movement drawer, then to begin with, the location of their attachment is determined on the sides of the drawers and on the inner walls of the cabinet. To do this, using a pencil and a ruler, draw a line along which the guides will be fixed. |
 | Next, a front panel is installed to the front of the drawer. It is screwed from the inside of the box, through pre-marked and drilled holes. In addition to self-tapping screws, it is recommended to use glue to fasten the panel: it is applied to the front panel, and then the front panel is pressed against it, and they are tightened with four or five self-tapping screws. After the glue has dried in the center façade panel a hole is drilled through which the handle is screwed. |
 | Finally, the long-awaited moment comes - connecting the cabinet and the countertop. It is recommended to first glue the stationary part of the tabletop to the surface of the cabinet, and then secure it with screws that are screwed in from the inside of the lower cabinets. But first, the tabletop needs to be positioned correctly. Part of the channel located on the permanently installed tabletop panel should rest against the side of the cabinet - it will serve as a stopper for the movement of the leg towards the table. The tabletop should extend beyond the edges of the cabinet on the drawer side by 50 mm, open shelves by 30 mm, and on the leg side by 120 mm. |
 | Having secured the tabletop, they proceed to the final installation and screwing the bedside table door onto the screws. Then the drawer is inserted, and the shelves are installed on the shelf supports. |
 | When closed, the table is compact, so it does not take up much space and looks quite aesthetically pleasing. If desired, you can choose other colors to decorate it, which will better harmonize with the interior of a particular room. |
 | When open, the table also does not take up much space and fits perfectly into one of the corners of the room. Thanks to its “light” design, it does not weigh down the interior, and the shape of the tabletop makes it safe for children. Therefore, this table option can be considered ideal for small apartments with small kitchens and rooms. |
If there is a need to save money, or simply have a great desire to express yourself in carpentry, then do not delay self-made. Moreover, the assembly will become not only an interesting and useful activity, but also very enjoyable, especially at the moment when the work is successfully completed.
For those who are confident in their abilities, we offer one more interesting option round table, which may well serve both at home and on the site.
Video: example of assembling a round table
And one more idea for a kitchen table, which, if not true, would also be within the power of a skilled owner to implement:
Video: lightweight kitchen table with collapsible design
Making a table with your own hands is a way out of the situation when ready-made design solutions They cannot satisfy when there is a lot of material lying around at home or in the garage, wood, from which you can make furniture that will please the eye and warm the heart.
If you have a tabletop, you will only need one element - legs for it; the choice of what they will be depends only on the master.
The first step when approaching the manufacture of legs for a future table is to choose suitable material . The material determines how functional and reliable the table will be, and these, by the way, are the two most important criteria for furniture.
What should you start from when choosing what to make legs from? There are three options:
Advice. Most often, chrome supports are the best choice.
Drawing
Regarding the drawing, you need to determine three indicators for yourself: the height of the table, the number of supports, the size and cross-sectional shape of the legs. In order to determine these characteristics, it is worth analyzing what kind of table you want to get as a result? Will it be a dining table, an outdoor table, a work table, a coffee table, or even a bar counter? The definition depends on the intended purpose heights supports.
The number of supports is made depending on preference, but do not forget about the purpose. Dining table It’s hard to imagine a large family on one or two legs.
One leg Ideal for countertops with a cross-section that fits into a square. In this case, it will have to stand not on its own section, but on an additional support.
Advice. The supports should not be too thin or too thick - this will all be non-functional and show bad taste.
When constructing a drawing, you need to take into account the thread, if any, and the change in cross-sectional shape along the length of the support.
How to do it yourself?
With access to a lathe, you can make any piece of furniture, including square or shaped legs. As an example, let’s take the algorithm for making a carved wooden table support on a lathe. The algorithm consists of the following steps:
The wooden leg is ready. All that remains is to make the remaining legs according to the diagram.
How to attach to a tabletop?
The most optimal and inconspicuous fastening is fastening using surface plates. How to do this step by step:
Finishing
In order for the product to last for many years, it must be processed. Chrome legs are not subject to any treatment, but wooden products needs to be processed properly.
In order for a wooden leg to serve faithfully for a long time, after its manufacture it is necessary process with sandpaper. This is the polishing stage. After sanding, open varnish or stain. Wait until dry, sand again, then re-open. Repeat this algorithm of actions several times.
Advice. The processed product accepts presentation and lasts longer.
Photo
Useful video
A good example of making curly legs can be seen in the following video:
Conclusion
Making table legs is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. Of course, you may encounter some difficulties, but we can say that the result will be worth it. Hand-made items, furniture, and clothing always delight the eye of the craftsman when they come into use and function perfectly.
The variety of shapes given to curved furniture legs can be used on various modern types furniture, and not just on antique-style products. Moreover, for home handyman the most attractive is simple model curly legs homemade furniture, offered by the French magazine System D.
The methods for manufacturing curved supports described in this article are not a repetition of those that are usually used in furniture factories, - they are more affordable and are perfect for small teams of furniture workshops and individual craftsmen.
Figure 2 shows, as an example, three types of legs that are the easiest to manufacture and profile: for a bureau, a stand for trinkets and a multi-purpose soft bench. Next to them are the shadow contours of the bars from which they are obtained. Thanks to a well-thought-out cutting method, such shaped furniture supports require less effort and material, while the waste is no greater than in the manufacture of more complex models.
Using tape or regular bow saw, and even more so, a jigsaw makes it relatively easy to obtain this kind of curves: curved legs of the simplest shape can be rough cut and finished by hand, and even faster than on a machine.
Rice. 1. Template for a bent table leg (plywood, s10) and its use on the workpiece.
1-high bureau leg; 2-medium leg for stand, bedside table, 3-small leg for bench.
Blank
Since some parts of the legs are very thin, it is necessary to use dense and durable wood, such as maple or birch. These two species are especially suitable because during subsequent finishing they make it possible to successfully imitate walnut or mahogany.
The first step is to prepare a block of sufficient size so that the entire leg of the corresponding profile can be cut from it. Therefore, it can be “composite” - glued together from boards 35 mm thick.
The planes of the boards that are joined together must be processed with a jointer and adjusted more precisely. If possible, use hot-curing glue (for example, PVA). Make sure that the clamps clamp the boards evenly along the entire length. Allow the glue to fully cure before starting the next operation.
In the case of joining a workpiece for a leg, which must withstand significant loads, the use of high quality glue is very important.
To make the workpiece, a template is used that makes it easier to draw the contour of the leg on its edge. It must be taken into account that the contour must be applied on two adjacent faces of the workpiece, with their convex sides facing each other.
While the glue is drying on the workpiece, make a template (for example, the one shown in Figure 1) from a piece of plywood 10 mm thick. First, cut a strip of plywood to the required length and width. The intended appearance of the leg can also be drawn on it (the main contours of the three models of legs are shown in the figure with a grid). However, in order to achieve maximum accuracy of the bend line, the template must first be drawn on a piece of hard cardboard, then the outline is cut out and applied to the plywood from which a template will be cut along the contour (each, of course, is intended only for one piece of furniture).
The curved line on the left of the template is the line of the back edge of the leg; the line on the right in the same picture is the front edge.
Mark the profile of the workpiece using a template. Carefully check the coincidence of the contours on the edges of the block (without such a check before cutting, the workpiece may be damaged). The two front sides of the legs are most visible in the finished product, but from certain points all four sides of the legs are visible, especially when looking along the length of the table.
a - for the legs of heavy furniture, b - for a light table, c - for a stand, d - for a bench.
Sawing
In order to cut a curved profile on a workpiece of similar thickness, it is better to use a jigsaw.
Scrape off any glue that may have come out of the joints under pressure when gluing the boards together into a piece, and thoroughly clean the edges. When cutting, strictly adhere to the intended contour and do not put pressure on the saw with the workpiece, because this can cause overheating and jamming of the saw blade.
After one part has been cut, place the cut piece in its old place and fasten both parts with one or two pins, placing them in such a way that the saw blade cannot touch them during the second cut of the edge. Installing a sawn piece in the old place provides a larger support plane for subsequent cuts. However, this support cannot be relied upon completely - if the end of one part of the workpiece lifts slightly while the saw is running, this can cause the blade to jam and fail.
After small radius curves have been cut, continue the operation quite slowly; haste will lead to a violation of the cutting accuracy.
Finalization of the workpiece
The protruding corners on the legs of the resulting sample are usually preserved; the corners in the upper part of the bend are sometimes rounded. All irregularities after sawing must be destroyed by sanding with sandpaper or a well-sharpened scraper (scraper). The latter tool is particularly recommended for long curved surfaces; To avoid jamming of the cutter, it must be adjusted in such a way that the thinnest chips can be removed with each movement.
Finally, process all curved profiles along all edges - uncorrected defects will complicate the final finishing.
If the leg is intended for a table, the end plane at its top should be aligned at right angles to the vertical edges, and cutouts should be made on it for connections with supporting elements covers.
Options - any
The leg models shown in the pictures are marked, cut and finished in the same way, in approximately the same way as described above. On the legs, the outer protrusion can be rounded. On top of the curved legs, a support part is attached, in which grooves are cut out for assembly with other furniture elements. This model is very suitable for a stand for radio equipment or for a banquette by the fireplace. But the use of such a leg is not limited only to these types of furniture, it can be longer or shorter, have a different shape of the top; this model can be applied in a wide variety of cases.
Rice. 4. Making a small leg (simplified version):
a - sawing the block; b - the resulting leg blank, c - manual finishing of the leg blank - with sandpaper on a block, d - finished bench with bent legs.
The short leg shown in Figure 4 is very suitable for a low stool or bench. The example of a simple leg that we see in the figure does not, strictly speaking, belong to old style, but its silhouette consists of the same curves, which makes it possible to classify this sample into the same category of curved legs. To mark such a model, you don’t even need a template: its outline is so simple and its size is so small that it can be drawn by placing a piece of cardboard with approximate profile However, such a short leg can sometimes be difficult to cut due to the uneven texture of the wood.
Before sawing the workpiece, you need to make sure that all its edges are at right angles to each other - this is necessary to ensure reliable support when sawing.
The short leg is usually fastened with a long screw or installed on inserted round tenons (dowels), with glue applied to the contacting planes.
IN better times rural populations all over the world could afford the luxury of beautiful and spectacular furniture.
In addition to the desire for beauty and attempts to imitate the decorative elements of furniture for the nobility, rustic furniture still had its own characteristic features.
Masters invariably used wood as the main and almost the only material in the production of their masterpieces.
As a rule, each area was rich in certain types of wood, which on the other side of the world were considered not just a curiosity, but an unprecedented exoticism.
Some compositions were so loved by the population that they turned into classics over the centuries. Such furniture still finds its admirers in our time, but you rarely see it in stores. As a rule, returning to the roots in the process of creating furniture today is the lot of home craftsmen and small thematic workshops.
In order to make this coffee table with curly legs with your own hands, you will need:
1. Materials:
- 2 pcs x 100 x 1200 mm - longitudinal parts of the tabletop frame;
- 2 pcs x 100 x 400 mm - transverse parts of the tabletop frame;
- 1 piece x 100 x 400 mm - central part of the tabletop frame;
- 2 pcs x 100 x 600 mm - outer parts of the front side of the tabletop;
- 6 pcs x 100 x 1100 mm - longitudinal parts of the front side of the tabletop;
- 2 pcs x 100 x 1200 mm - longitudinal parts of the lower tier frame;
- 2 pcs x 100 x 400 mm - transverse parts of the lower tier frame;
- 1 piece x 100 x 400 mm - central part of the lower tier frame;
- 16 pcs x 77 x 600 mm - parts of the lower tier flooring;
- figured legs - 4 pcs;
- self-tapping screws or furniture screws;
- milky or snow-white paint;
- glue for woodworking;
- wood varnish.
2. Tools:
- electric drill;
- sander;
- a jigsaw or any other tool for sawing boards;
- screwdriver and Phillips screwdriver;
- clamps or suitable clamps;
- paint brush;
- soft fabric lint-free;
- construction tape;
- pencil.
Step one: preparing the material
Choose planed boards because they have the same thickness, and in your case this is very important.
If you use used material, take care to remove the aged top layer wood using the same thickness planer. Try not to use jointer, since you will not be able to adjust the boards to the specified thickness.
Avoid damp, freshly cut lumber. Only after proper drying is the wood ready for the production of any wooden products. Otherwise, cracks will appear on the surface of the furniture, and the structure itself will lose strength due to changes in the mass of the material.
Use furniture screws or self-tapping screws at the joints that support the structure. You can use nails to secure the parts of the bottom shelf or table top. By the way, do not forget that in construction hypermarkets or online stores you can find a wide selection of nails with decorative heads.
The author used ready-made legs, pre-painted, with the effect of a cracked coating. Such legs can be found in furniture supply stores, can be ordered from a turner, or can be dismantled from old tables or staircases, where such elements were primarily used.
Step two: marking and manufacturing parts
The author of this master class shared the measurements coffee table, so you can safely take them into service. If the table is too big for your living room, reduce the proportions. However, do not forget that the more massive the legs you managed to find, the wider and longer the table should be in order to look harmonious.
Carry out the markings, especially carefully if you have changed the original dimensions of the parts. Saw the boards into pieces of the required length.
Step Three: Assembling the Lower and Upper Frames
First of all, you need to make two identical frames in size and design for the table top and the bottom shelf-base.
Each of them consists of two longitudinal and three transverse crossbars. Moreover, the latter are equal in length, as can be seen in the photo below.
Using a drill, make diagonal holes (see photo below), clamp the parts with a clamp to securely fix them, and screw in the screw. Thus, assemble the frame for the tabletop and start making the frame for the shelf.
Step four: post-assembly
Secure the tabletop frame to the legs. To do this, make markings and indicate where the legs will be. Make sure that they are located at the same distance from the edge of the table.
Place the frame on the legs and make four holes to attach them: through the frame and into the end of the leg. It would be a good idea to slightly drill out the hole for the screw head with a drill of a larger diameter.
Apply glue to the torus of each leg and securely secure it with a screw to hold the frame to the leg. With such a combined connection, it is not necessary to wait for the glue to set, but you can safely continue working.
On the frame intended for the lower shelf, nail or screw the transverse boards with screws as shown in the photo. WITH reverse side in each of the corners the author attached low “legs” made from scraps of boards and shaped like a square.
You can screw wheels to them, or you can limit yourself to rubber protection, which does a good job of protecting the floor from scratches during the use of such furniture.
Assemble the base of the table with its top frame and legs and begin creating the front of the tabletop.
To do this, fasten a transverse board of the tabletop at one edge, nail the longitudinal parts and secure the second transverse board at the opposite edge. Make sure that the edges of the tabletop remain level.
The assembly is complete and you can proceed to the pleasant stage- painting.
Step five: finishing
Before you start painting, thoroughly sand all surfaces. Special attention Pay attention to the areas where the wood will be cut. Remove dust with a damp cloth.
Apply paint to the surface of the table and lightly wipe it with a soft, lint-free cloth. This is a kind of imitation of old painting.
You can also paint the wood, wait until the paint is completely dry and lightly sand the surface with sandpaper. However, this way you will get a slightly different effect, a more uniform, although erased, coating.
In any case, which aging technique to choose is up to you to decide, based on the properties of the paint itself. If it is sticky, you won't be able to remove it by rubbing.
Fix the paint with a suitable varnish. For strength, apply it in several layers, using interlayer sanding so that each new layer reliably penetrates the previous one, forming a coating resistant to mechanical damage.
You can use a clear varnish, or you can find a composition with a suitable shade for this project. A translucent varnish will complete the color and make the table as a whole look more organic and in its own style.
Everything in this life is short-lived, including furniture, or rather, its individual parts. U folding table very often it is the legs that “fail”, and a dilemma arises: change the table or replace this part? Believe me, it is no more difficult than making a playpen with your own hands, everything is much simpler.
To begin the process, the main thing is to acquire the necessary tools and a lot of patience, then your table, be it round or rectangular, will be able to get new curly legs.
Modern decor involves the use different styles, so this part can be made of wood, metal with a chrome finish. Today we will look at traditional version legs made using dense hardwood.
For these purposes it is necessary to prepare:
- bars measuring 25 × 50 mm in the amount of 8 pieces;
- glue them together, obtaining the necessary 4 blanks for future legs with a size of 50 mm by 50 mm.
We will not make balusters, because such work requires special carpentry skills; we will limit ourselves to the standard form.
The best option is to have a supply of such preparations, as they say, just in case of fire and unforeseen circumstances. Check availability in advance necessary tools, especially with a professional level. Plays a huge role proper preparation workplace, requiring free space and having the necessary tools at hand.
Stages of creating a part
When choosing wood, pay attention to its structure and direction of the grain. Now you can move on to the main action, having previously decided whether the legs will be folding or folding. Such options are possible and even convenient, but a little more difficult to create.
Don’t forget to open the legs with a special solution that will prevent the formation of fungi and insects, and if necessary, paint and apply varnish.
It is difficult to call this method the simplest. Perhaps on initial stage there will be problems, but in the process everything will smooth out, a “second wind” will open and you 
you won't notice the new set of legs sitting on your desk.
If you have not previously dealt with carpentry at all, then there is a real opportunity to try your hand, especially since numerous blanks provide such a chance. Believe me, the result of your efforts, even if it is far from ideal, will bring a lot of pleasure and invaluable experience!
