Features and procedure for installing cast iron and acrylic bathtubs on your own. How to secure a clawfoot bathtub if it is on a tiled floor? The bathroom is shaking, what should I do?

Installing a bathtub is quite hard work in the truest sense of the word. This is especially true for cast iron plumbing, which is an almost impossible task to install alone.

For installation, even relatively light ones acrylic bathtubs, it is better to find an assistant, since any awkward manipulations can lead to damage to the body, coating or drain parts.

What to consider before starting work

Before you start installing a bathtub yourself, critically evaluate your own capabilities - do you have enough skills to install plumbing fixtures practically by touch? Although we note that even very modest skills acquired, for example, during installation kitchen sink, should be enough for successful installation of the bathtub.

When purchasing plumbing fixtures made of acrylic, be prepared for the fact that the work will have to be carried out with extreme care - if handled carelessly, the bathtub can become warped, resulting in the coating cracking. It will also be damaged if the working tool accidentally falls into the bowl. In addition, during installation in the body of an acrylic bathtub, you will have to drill blind holes, and given that this material is extremely easy to drill, it is quite possible to overdo it and hole the bathtub right through.

What you need to know about cast iron baths

Before you purchase cast iron bath, you need to familiarize yourself with its features as carefully as possible:

It is better to rest such a bathtub on three walls at once, especially if it is installed on open decorative legs, since the latter can easily break due to lateral force applied to the bath.
Siphon to drain hole It is advisable to fasten it in advance, but again the heavy bath will have to be moved once again, which can lead to various damages.
Cast iron bathtubs are quite expensive to purchase, but their operation is also expensive.

When installing cast iron, be careful not to damage the tiles on the floor.
To do this, they usually place bricks under the legs.

Cast iron takes quite a long time to warm up - in order to fill a bathtub with warm forty-degree water, a boiler that heats water to 60 degrees will require about 100 liters of water. For comparison, the same acrylic bathtub will require only 50 liters of water, heated in a boiler to 60 degrees. It should also be taken into account that cast iron releases the received heat much faster, therefore, in terms of efficiency cast iron bath inferior to acrylic by more than two times.

Features of acrylic bathtubs

Unlike cast iron, acrylic bathtubs are quite light, which makes it possible to install them alone. In the production of acrylic sanitary ware, enterprises do not experience any technological difficulties associated with giving the products any complex shape, so you can find a variety of samples on sale, but at the same time they are quite inexpensive.

The thermal conductivity of this material is quite low so that the bath does not cool down for a long time, while heating it occurs almost instantly. This is associated with significant savings in the operation of acrylic plumbing, as mentioned above.

The assembled frame should be attached to the acrylic bathtub in the bathroom,
otherwise it may not fit through a standard 60 cm doorway.

The main disadvantage of acrylic bathtubs is their relatively low strength and service life not as long as cast iron ones. However, with careful use it can last up to 15 or even 20 years. Review - read the next article.

The installation method for acrylic bathtubs also differs from cast iron ones, which is due to the characteristics of the material.

Installation of cast iron baths

A cast iron bathtub, as previously noted, is extremely heavy, and some features of its installation are associated with this circumstance:

Installation of acrylic bathtubs

The first step when installing an acrylic bathtub will be to attach guides for the legs to its bottom, which are attached to the bottom with self-tapping screws.

All markings are carried out in accordance with the instructions, while the supports are installed strictly perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the bath.

The places where the legs are attached usually have an increased thickness of acrylic.
If this is not there, glue it wooden blocks and screw it to them.

It is necessary to drill blind holes for self-tapping screws with a drill with a limiter approximately 3/4 of their length. After this, the legs themselves are installed, and the drain fittings are installed.

Provision should be made for a pipe extension for bypass.

The side of the bath sits on plastic hooks, which are attached to the wall with dowels.

The bathtub is installed in the desired place and adjusted in height using adjusting screws.

Please note. There is no need to adjust the slope of the bathtub to drain; it is built in when the tide of the bathtub bowl is low.

All cracks are sealed with silicone, the build-up of which can be removed with a rag soaked in a vinegar solution.

There is also an option for restoring a bathtub - read all the details of this method in a separate article.

When installing, an important role is played by the height to which you can raise the bathtub above the level of the sewer inlet. It should be raised higher for two reasons:

The flow from the bath will become more intense. In this case, it is not so much the speed of water removal that is important, but the fact that a powerful drain will almost completely eliminate the formation of hairballs on the drain grid and in the siphon.
The high location of the bath will make it possible to install a siphon with a deep elbow and, accordingly, a good water seal, which will significantly reduce the likelihood of unpleasant odors and harmful gases penetrating back from the sewer.

Deep knee - protection from unpleasant odors sewer

The choice of material is also important. In most cases, it is made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polypropylene. The latter material is more expensive, but at the same time it is stronger, more durable, its walls are smoother, which minimizes the possibility of blockages.

A few words should also be said regarding the choice of drain. So, siphon models are too cheap, metal mesh which are attached to a bolt, can essentially be considered non-separable, and therefore non-repairable. The fact is that after a few months the rust grabs the bolt so much that it is not possible to unscrew it without breaking the siphon. In this case, it does not even matter what metal the hardware is made of - steel or, for example, bronze or brass. It’s just that in the first case we will observe the usual chemical corrosion, and in the rest - electrochemical.

In conclusion, we note that For an overflow in the bathroom, you should absolutely not use a rigid pipe. A flexible corrugated hose is quite suitable for this, which, on the one hand, is extremely easy to install, and on the other hand, due to its larger internal diameter, provides better water permeability, which reduces the likelihood that water from the bathtub will overflow.

Old style cast iron bathtubs are quite difficult to move. But modern steel and acrylic models, due to their low weight, are quite unstable. If installed incorrectly, they will wobble during use or move out of place with the slightest push, ruining the finish of the walls and floors. Let's talk about how to fix a bathtub - steel or acrylic - to avoid such troubles.

The stability of the bathtub depends not only on the procedure for its installation, but also on the dimensions of the bowl of this plumbing fixture. In order for the bathtub to stand securely, its dimensions must correspond to the distance between the walls at the installation site, minus 2.5–3 centimeters on each side. Under such conditions, it will be easier to secure the bowl to the walls and floor. In addition, in this case there will be no gap between the bathtub and the walls, into which water will inevitably get in during use.

Features of steel bathtubs

Among all types of baths steel models The hardest thing to do is to keep it stationary. This is due to two features of their design:

low weight of the bowl;
lack of fastenings for legs.

On cast iron and acrylic models with outside bowls usually have special fasteners to which the legs can be securely screwed. Manufacturers of steel bathtubs have abandoned these parts. Since steel is quite soft material, there is a high risk that when used, the bathtub may bend under the weight of the water collected in it, plus the body immersed in it. In this case, the fasteners will inevitably damage the enamel coating of the bowl.

Legs for steel plumbing fixtures are usually a kind of trestles or supports. The bathtub is supposed to simply rest on them. Some leg models can be equipped with an adhesive layer for more reliable fixation with the bottom of the bowl. But this doesn't improve the situation much. Therefore, it is recommended to use more reliable structural elements in addition to the legs.

How to fix a steel bathtub so it doesn't wobble

There are several ways to install a steel bathtub in a stable position. Most often it is recommended to make a brick stand under the plumbing bowl. But this option is not suitable for everyone. First, execution brickwork requires certain skills and abilities. Build reliable stand Not every homeowner can do it with their own hands. And in this case, quite high demands are placed on the quality of the masonry, since it will be constantly exposed to moisture and serious weight.

Secondly, in many houses, especially those related to the old foundation, interfloor ceilings may simply not withstand the weight of the brick substrate. As a result, installing a bathtub can result in a utility accident for you and your neighbors below. Plus, not everyone wants to wait several days for the masonry mortar to dry and acquire the strength necessary for installing plumbing. Therefore it is better to use more simple options fixing the bathtub.

Advice: if you still want to install a steel bathtub on a stand, make it not from brick, but from gas block. This material weighs much less and is more convenient to install.

To the simplest and most reliable installation methods steel bath include:

fastening to walls using metal corners;
installation on a metal profile frame;
use of special fasteners.

Where does the installation of a bathtub begin?

Whatever installation method you choose, remember the main thing - installing a bathtub begins with fitting. First, the bowl is placed in the right place on its legs, its position is leveled and connected to the water supply and sewerage system. After this, you should check the performance of the product and especially the quality of water drainage. As you know, the bathtub should be under small angle: only in this case the drain will work correctly.

Having found out the optimal angle of inclination of the bowl by adjusting its height, mark the position of the sides on the wall. Using these marks, you will later install fasteners for the bathtub: steel or acrylic. After marking, disconnect the plumbing fixture from the communications and remove it from the premises.

Important! The final installation of a steel bathtub, regardless of the methods of its fastening, should be carried out after the floor of the room is completely finished with tiles or other material.

Installation of steel bowl on corners

Enough reliable option fastening the bathtub - in addition to the legs, rest its sides on wide metal corners screwed to the walls. This the method will work you if the walls of the room are made of sufficiently durable material and were leveled with plaster or tile adhesive. It is better not to attach a bathtub to plasterboard structures: they will not withstand such weight.

Important! Installation of corners should be done after the finishing of the walls of the room is completed.

You can hang the corners only on two walls, against which the short edges of the bowl will then rest, or on all three vertical surfaces, with which it will come into contact. To avoid damaging the finish, first use special drill make holes for fasteners in the tiles. After that, you can drill through them directly into the wall, using, depending on its material, a drill with a pobedit tip or a hammer drill.

The location for attaching the corners should be determined by pre-made marks. At the same time, keep in mind that the bathtub will rest on them with its sides, but part of its weight should also fall on the legs. Don't forget to adjust for the thickness of the corner.

Installing a bathtub on a frame

If you plan to cover the space under the bowl, best way How to strengthen a steel bathtub so that it does not wobble is to place it on a metal frame. The structure is made from UD and CD wall profiles. The first is fixed to the floor using dowels as a base for the frame. The upper frame and supports for it are assembled from the second. It is also possible to produce welded supporting structure from:

metal corner;
steel pipes of suitable diameter.

Important! The size of the frame is selected in such a way that the profile of the upper frame fits snugly against the walls of the bowl, while the bathtub itself stands firmly on its legs.

Corner posts made of profiles are fastened to the upper and lower frames, and also, for greater reliability, attached to the walls of the room. The construction of the frame should be done after finishing the walls or, at least, after tiling that part of them that will be located above the bowl. Upon completion of installation, the frame can be sheathed plastic panels or plasterboard, which is then covered with tiles.

Important! When covering, do not forget to leave inspection hatch for access to communications located under the bathroom.

Using special fasteners

If the bathtub bowl rests firmly enough on the legs, you can limit yourself to attaching it to the wall using special fasteners. They are sold in a wide variety in construction and plumbing supermarkets. This operation should be carried out before finishing walls In the future, the fasteners are hidden under, which not only improves the aesthetics of the room, but also increases the reliability of the fastening.

Independent arrangement of a bathroom is more difficult than repairing other rooms of apartments and houses with all the amenities. The main difficulties are caused by laying pipes in a closed circuit, installing a steel bathtub and other containers for personal hygiene. The bathroom and toilet are the most visited rooms in the apartment, and by their internal equipment, guests judge the cleanliness and real wealth of the family. It is important to learn how to install the adoption tank water procedures without leaks, and the fastening of the steel bathtub must be reliable and stable.

What is important to know about installing a steel bathtub?

The bathroom is the place where the work day begins in the morning, where everyone takes turns getting themselves in order. Taking a bath in the evening upon returning home is not only a hygienic need, but also a place where you want to relax and tune into the rhythm of life at home. Some people refuse large containers in favor of a tray in the shower stall, but it is better to “relax” in a bathtub filled with aromatic foam. This is especially loved by women who simultaneously perform a number of facial and body care procedures. For overall convenience, a comfortable steel bathtub and a cozy atmosphere in the room are essential.

Reddened with age old bath does not look good against the background of new tiles or other cladding. It's not that valuable to leave behind overhaul, and then spend a lot on grueling whitening and cleaning. It is much easier to buy a new tank and install a steel bathtub yourself. But it has its own characteristics, which are important to know for easy installation and effective use.

Any home handyman knows that buying new containers for personal care today is a very expensive business, and the fee for an installation specialist often costs half of its cost, or even more. Therefore, it makes sense to install a steel bathtub yourself.

The modern building materials market offers bathrooms made of different materials:

steel;
cast iron;
acrylic;
polymer concrete (artificial marble);
wooden (made of durable wood);
stone (carved from a single block);
porcelain;
ceramic;
fiberglass;
composite (steel plus acrylic, acrylic plus quartz powder, fiberglass).

A steel bathtub is one of the most affordable containers. But it has some disadvantages, which are eliminated during installation. There are options for installing a steel bathtub:

on a special frame or frame;
on finished metal legs;
on brick supports or podium;
on welded corners.

Attention: A full thin-walled steel container with a mass of water up to the edges can be slightly deformed, so it is worthwhile to make additional reinforcement for uniform loading.

Features of a steel container for installation in the bathroom

Steel hot tubs available different shades, shape and size. The most popular example is the oblong bathtub rectangular shape, which is produced using stamped molding methods. This design comes with a set of stable legs for reliable fixation. Inner surface, as a rule, is covered with a layer of smooth enamel for easy care of the container.

The market also offers corner bathtubs with a curved outer edge, but these bathtubs are more expensive due to more complex molding. They require a frame frame or are mounted on a special pallet with a large number supports And installing a steel bathtub on a frame is a new expense, for example, for a brick pedestal covered with mosaic tiles.

Modern steel bathtubs are available with interior color options. Elite imported models do not visually differ from expensive products, but are much cheaper than luxury products. Their shape is extruded from a sheet of metal under high pressure and at high temperature. Then a facing polymer layer, enamel is applied or connected to an acrylic container of the same shape.

Advice: When purchasing, carefully inspect the product you are purchasing - the enamel should be smooth, without sagging or edges at the junction of the base and coating. Request a certificate from the manufacturer and a warranty card. The thickness of the bathtub determines its susceptibility to deformation and overall service life. The thicker, the more expensive, and the cheapest baths are used for temporary use - the enamel in them will gradually crack.

Attention: If the distance between the walls of the bathroom is smaller than the dimensions of a steel bathtub up to 3-4 cm, it is quite easy to install it, but it is important to properly close the cracks for sealing. If the edges of the tank are 2-3 cm wider, then notches are cut on the opposite walls to bring in its sides. Wall defects can be easily eliminated by tiling, but sealing is not required.

A steel bathtub differs from cast iron products in its light weight, so you can install a steel bathtub yourself, without the help of helpers. A steel bath is stronger, and under strong mechanical stress it will deform, and cast iron will crack.

Advantages and disadvantages of a steel bathtub, ways to eliminate them

An inexpensive steel container has a lot of advantages and small disadvantages; there are few of them, and they are eliminated during installation. Main advantages:

light weight;
easy transportation;
self-installation available;
quick warming up when filling before taking water procedures;
low cost with decent design;
dense, smooth enamel does not peel off, is easy to wash and clean, does not form a persistent calcium deposit, retains its “new” shine and whiteness for many years with reasonable use;
Due to the plasticity of steel, variations in container shapes provide the most large selection on the market;
Possibility of installation in several ways.

Main disadvantages:

a thin-walled bathtub is susceptible to cracking of the enamel layer under heavy load or careless handling;
high heat transfer (the bathroom cools down quickly), thermal insulation of the outer layer is required;
shorter service life than cast iron or stone;
noisy filling with water;
Thin-walled containers can become deformed if they are improperly installed on steel bath legs or if they are overfilled.

Tip: To prevent the bathtub from “humming” when filling and from cooling quickly, cover it with foam on the outside. This will not be visible when covering the podium. When collecting water, use the faucet attachments with a rubber hose for silent filling.

Features of installing a steel container in several ways

The installation method depends on the type of mounting components. The most common method is installation on paired self-adhesive supports. The fastening for a steel bathtub in the form of an arched channel raises doubts among some buyers. But if you follow the accompanying instructions, and the two ends of the bathtub rest against the wall, then such a mount is quite reliable.

Calculations and measurements are made based on the future location of the steel container. The bathtub cannot be wider than the place where it should stand. Ideally, the dimensions of the tank coincide with the place where the product is located, resting against the walls on three sides. This type of fastening is most effective and does not depend on the type of fastener.

The most uniform load distribution is when fastened along the entire perimeter to a frame or frame. It seems to sag, and so that when filled to the top with water it does not deform, supports from below are also needed. In any option, the screws from below are additionally adjusted if you plan to install a steel bathtub on legs. Each leg is adjusted in height separately and secured to the floor.

When mounting to the wall is planned, specialists must level the floors in the room and mark the walls strictly horizontally. This guarantees the absence of distortions and redistribution of load at maximum filling. If a steel bathtub is installed on corners for a frame, then at the junction it is sawed with a hacksaw at 45°. After preliminary fitting, welding will be required, and the resulting frame is secured with brackets to the wall.

Attention: The more support zones, the more reliable installation steel bath. If the container has no legs, when marking it is important to take into account the height of the supports so that there is a gap underneath between the bathtub and the floor.

Insulation, sound insulation and sealing of a steel bathtub

Elimination of the shortcomings of a steel container is carried out simultaneously with its installation. Sound insulation of the tank is carried out by treating it with polyurethane foam or porous insulation, which is applied by spraying.

To ensure high-quality processing, the steel bath is turned over and placed on the floor. A noise-absorbing fiber is glued onto a previously degreased surface. In this case, it is important to carefully process the ends and securely secure them with any sealant.

As already mentioned in the section on disadvantages, a steel bath heats up quickly, which is good, but it cools down just as quickly, giving off heat. For this reason, they try to make high-quality thermal insulation or insulation of a steel bathtub. The same polyurethane foam will help cope with this task. The foam is released from the can in small portions and the back side of the font is evenly treated.

It is best to cover the surface with foam with polyethylene, smoothing and leveling the foam. When the foam completes the process of expansion and hardening, the bath is turned over and installation is completed.

In production conditions, Vibroizol, well known to motorists, is used for noise and heat insulation. Treatment with sealants such as bitumen resin, which is used for general waterproofing in the bathroom, also gives good results.

Sealant is also necessary to seal the gap between the bathtub and the wall. And there are many ways to prevent water from getting outside the container along the walls. Use:

construction silicone;
polyurethane foam;
bathtub adhesive tape;
plastic skirting boards;
special ceramic linings in the form of plinths, etc.

Attention: If the foam has not yet dried, and the gap between the bathtub and the floor is minimal, then the expanding substance can push out the container, disrupting the accuracy of installation. To prevent this from happening, it is advisable to weigh down a light steel bathtub by filling it to the brim with water. But this can only be done after installing a siphon and connecting to the sewer.

Siphon selection and installation method

A bathtub of any type is installed in a place where the exit to the sewer and connection to the water supply are closest. All siphon components are assembled in accordance with the instructions that come with any product. Detailed Description and the diagram shows all the stages of assembly. No matter how reliable the connection, it is recommended to treat the seam with silicone or other sealant.

Attention: Any bathing container must have not only a hole for draining through a siphon, but also a hose for draining water through an overflow funnel. A regular siphon for a washbasin is not suitable, only with a tee.

Today, semi-automatic siphons are available for sale to drain water from a full bath without the need to find a gag. One turn of the washer and the water drains out. This is convenient for large containers, although such a siphon is more expensive. The most practical are siphons with a metal outlet with bolts, which are easier to install than plastic ones. Metal fasteners are coated on the outside with grease to prevent rust.

Mounting the bathtub on brick supports

Experts recommend installing a steel bathtub on bricks - the simplest and most reliable method. If the container is supported on a solid support, like a podium, then this is the most stable position. But most often, only lower brick supports are used, and the bathtub is attached to the wall with brackets.

If the installation is done according to all the rules, the bathtub will be motionless, and this is not only comfortable when sitting in the font, but also guarantees the longest service life. An ordinary red brick is suitable, from which two lower supports or a podium-type perimeter are constructed.

It is very convenient to make 2-3 wide steps from brick with handrails, which make it easier to climb into and out of the bathtub. With proper cladding, it looks very expensive, like a mini-pool in luxury hotels. A corner steel bathtub with a rounded edge is best suited for this purpose, and it is better to choose a mosaic cladding.

The supports are formed from 2-3 rows of red brick so that they retreat from the edges of the container from below by 15-20 cm. From the brick they form something like a recess under the bottom so that the supports seem to slightly cover it from the sides by half a brick. It is laid using conventional cement mixture with sand, after which the cement should harden within 2 days.

When installed on lower brick supports, the niche under the bathtub is covered in front with a shield and lined with tiles or other moisture-resistant facing material. For example, a bath steel installation, video:

Today there are an incredible number of different types of legs and other supports for the bathroom on sale, which differ in many different criteria, including cost. It is worth noting that a bath mount can be purchased not only as a strong support, but also in order to emphasize the aesthetics of the structure and the comfort of the entire room. Manufacturers try to regularly produce a variety of fastener models so that you can choose products to suit a specific style and design solution of the bathroom.

To secure a bathtub to the floor or wall, you can use various methods.

Basically, floor fasteners are used.

It is more practical and easier to work with.

As for the types, there can be several of them:

A support structure can be great for supporting the entire bathroom, including supporting the weight of water and people. Such supports are not fragile foundations at all, but durable products that can last for years without losing their technical characteristics.
An auxiliary support is used to make a secondary support if the main one is not enough. In some cases, secondary support is needed to level the bathtub.
The decorative support is used to decorate the main legs and cannot function as a solid base, it is secured with construction foam.

Decoration is just a creative decoration and nothing more.

Practical mounting of an acrylic bathtub to the wall

You can fix the structure of an acrylic bathtub in various ways.

Most often, the type of wall mounting is chosen:

Insert into a niche. If you choose this option, then you need to carry out the work at the time of finishing the premises, as there will be too much dust, dirt and debris. In other words, the niche is first prepared from a metal frame and drywall, and after that, finishing work is required to complete the repair.
Metal corner. Most often, they try to mount acrylic bathtubs on a metal corner structure. You don’t have to buy it, but it’s quite possible to make it your own with my own hands. The frame is installed along the wall along the side of the bathroom, after which it is placed on this support.
Most perfect way, by means of which you can attach an acrylic bathtub - this is the installation of hooks, or special brackets are selected. As a rule, they come complete with plumbing equipment, but if they are not available, you will have to purchase additionally. Initially, you need to put the bathroom in its permanent location and level it using a building level. Next, a deviation of 20 cm is made from its corners. Next, the product is moved back, the thickness of its side is measured, this distance is measured down from the previously set marks on the wall surface, and holes for the dowels are prepared. A dowel and bracket are screwed into them and the bathroom is installed. A ceramic or plastic plinth is installed on the surface of the seam.

It is worth noting that it is permissible to make an insert in a room where there are already tiles, but in this case, you will have to adjust not the insert for the bathtub, but the structure to the parameters of the room.

All joints must be treated with a special waterproof sealant.

There is one caveat. The frame of any bathtub should be placed not only on the surface of the wall, but also on the floor, so that there is no distortion of the structure and deformation of the container for water procedures during operation.

Let's figure out how to fix a steel bathtub so it doesn't swing

How to install a steel, iron or any other metal bathtub so that it does not wobble?

You will need:

Buy strong supports;
Prepare the installation site;
Pick up necessary set tools.

It is worth noting that a steel bathtub is not too heavy and can easily fit on legs that do not have too high demands. From correct selection support for plumbing equipment depends on the quality of the racks and their service life.

As a rule, supports for steel bowls may differ in appearance and type of fastener:

Screw. They are installed on the bottom using screws. In appearance they resemble ordinary metal racks, and installation occurs by screwing them to a special protrusion on the surface of the structure, or, in other words, to the ears. This method is considered tough, and installation will require a lot of effort and care so as not to damage the bathroom enamel.
Self-adhesive plates. Such legs are considered universal, and fastening is carried out to the surface of a steel bathtub due to a special adhesive layer located on the metal plate to which the legs are attached. In appearance they resemble the most ordinary bench. This method allows you to avoid the formation of scratches on the outer enamel layer of the sanitary ware, even if you carry out the installation yourself.
Eyelets. In this case, the legs are fixed using lugs, or, in other words, separate consoles that rest on the protrusions or lugs located on the bottom of the bathroom. After installation, the eyes are tightened with special pins.

The last method is considered reliable and will allow you to do solid foundation However, you need to be as careful as possible so that defects do not form at the bottom of the container for water procedures.

Important! Such legs can only be used if there are special ears located on the bottom of the product. Screwing into the bottom is strictly prohibited.

If the floor is level, then a support on a self-adhesive plate is quite suitable.

Choosing fasteners for the bath

Almost every master who works with plumbing equipment can provide a photo report of exactly how he installed a cast iron or steel structure on the legs. What if you do the installation yourself?

You just need to start from what the bathroom is made of and choose the appropriate methods for installing the legs:

The cast iron font should stand on supports that will not wobble, especially when the container is filled with water and there is a person in it. In addition, any fastenings are equipped with special wedges or bolted together to increase rigidity.
Steel bathtubs are quite difficult to fix, since they are light and can be moved from the desired position with one movement. In the case of such bathrooms, they choose a method of installation to the walls, which must be done at the stage of rough work and subsequently tiled.
Acrylic bathtubs are best valued at metal frame, assembled by hand. This way you can avoid deformation of the product due to poor-quality supports, and strengthen the structure.

To understand how to install a bathtub with legs, you need to familiarize yourself with all the nuances at the stage of purchasing this plumbing equipment in order to purchase the entire set of necessary parts, and subsequently not encounter difficulties or unpredictable moments, such as mismatch of the racks with the materials of the bathtub.

The bathroom has always been and remains almost the main room in the house. It is the comfort and convenience of taking water procedures in the morning that determines your mood for the whole day, and a pleasant bath in the evening will calm you down and set you up for a pleasant night's rest. Therefore, every owner strives to create maximum convenience in the bathroom. And here you can’t do without a spacious bath bowl. Of course, sometimes you have to do renovation work and update plumbing. The most difficult procedure is replacing the font, especially if you have to do it for the first time. So, installing a steel bath: the nuances of choosing ditches and what you will have to face during installation.

Steel baths: pros, cons of bowls and ways to eliminate shortcomings

Steel bathtubs have a durable enamel coating

The practicality of steel bowls has long been known to customers. In addition, cuvettes have one invaluable advantage - affordable cost. But, before you know how to install a steel bathtub, it’s worth understanding all the nuances in a little more detail. Steel bowls have many more advantages than disadvantages, especially since they can be easily eliminated. The main advantages include:

High-quality steel bathtubs have a particularly durable enamel coating. This is due to the fact that manufacturers literally “baker” the enamel into the surface. After this technological treatment, the enamel layer, like the steel itself, acquires a special level of strength.
Steel bathtubs do not lose their attractiveness for a long time appearance, remaining snow-white even after many years of use.
The plastic material allows the bowls to be made in the most various forms and modifications.
Light weight makes it easy to transport and install. Installation metal bath Doing it yourself is a completely affordable procedure for a person who has a little patience and free time.
Large size range. Due to the plasticity of the material, steel bathtubs are most often produced in atypical sizes.

Not expensive models may deform under heavy loads

Flaws:

Bathtub models that are too cheap are prone to deformation under increased loads. Installing a steel bathtub with your own hands will be difficult, since any bending will lead to cracks in the enamel.

Advice! To prevent this from happening, you need to buy models with a wall thickness of at least 2.5-3 mm.

The high level of thermal conductivity of the metal does not require heating the walls when pouring water, but at the same time it gives off heat just as easily, which means that the question of how to insulate a steel bathtub needs to be addressed.

Advice! Insulation can be done using polyurethane foam, covering the bowl from the outside with it.

Noise threshold when filling a bowl. The hum can be reduced if you know how to properly install a steel bathtub and foam it on the back side.

Now all the advantages and disadvantages of steel ditches are clear and you can begin installation. So, how to install a metal bathtub, and what tools are needed for the work?

Materials and tools required for installing a steel bathtub

Bathtub Installation Tools

In order for the installation of a metal bathtub with your own hands to be excellent, you must have the following components:

drill with attachments;
wrench;
dry cement and sand;
plumbing sealant;
insulating tape;
polyurethane foam;
waterproof enamel or paint;
construction level;
corrugated pipe;
tub siphon fitting;
drain/overflow

Do-it-yourself installation of an iron bathtub begins with checking the condition of the sewerage system. If changes and additions are necessary, you need to improve the operation of the entire structure, otherwise the installation of the steel bathtub will be unsuccessful and everything will have to be redone.

Installation of a steel bathtub on corners, bricks or in a box must be done in such a way that it can be connected to the water supply system and taps without problems. In addition, a siphon, overflow, corrugated pipe for water drainage, and tees must be connected to the communications. Only after this, assemble the harness and treat the joints with sealant.

Advice! The bathtub harness is easy to assemble if you follow the instructions included with the product.

The choice of siphon is another point that must be taken into account before installing an iron bathtub. There are several types of accessories on sale that you can pay attention to:

Semi-automatic are designs that drain water by turning a special washer. You don't have to fumble around the bottom of the bathtub to find the stopper. One turn of the hinge, the plug rises and drains without unnecessary intervention;
Regular plastic construction Suitable for all types of bowls and requires minimal installation effort. In addition, such a siphon costs much less than a semi-automatic system.

Important! Some siphons are equipped with metal outlets mounted to the overflow using a bolt. Installation of such a device is simple, as is the installation of an iron bathtub in general, but when choosing this design, pay attention to the manufacturer: metal parts that do not have anti-corrosion treatment will become unusable too quickly!

Installation of a steel bath

Installation of a corner on the wall to support the font

You can install a steel bathtub yourself in the following way:

Tidy up the area of the room where the bathtub will be located: fill/screed, lay tiles or other floor covering.
Provide the necessary supports. How to properly install an iron bathtub? It is best to install on 2.5 cm corners. To do this, holes are drilled in the corners themselves and markings are made on the wall. Afterwards, attach the corners to the marking points using self-tapping screws/dowels, keeping in mind the height of the legs of the bathtub bowl and the slope, which you must pay attention to during installation.

Advice! When mounting on a wall, the mounting angles must be in the same plane!

You need to continue attaching the steel bathtub to the wall with the bowl itself. Introduce the cuvette and place it in the prepared place (it is better to place it on its side). In this case, the bottom should be facing wall panel, and the hole through which the water will drain is located on the side of the sewer drain left in the floor.
The installation of the iron bathtub continues with the installation of legs in the upper side. The bolts do not need to be tightened to the limit; it is better to use moderate force, since with persistent pressure there is a danger of breaking the nut. Then screw on the second pair of legs, having first turned the bathtub onto the other side.

Advice! Adjustable legs can be purchased separately or you can look at the hot tub kit, which already includes supports of the desired type.

Checking the strength of the fastening and setting the height is the next step. Installation of a metal bathtub is shown to be carried out with a slight inclination towards the drainage of water.
Now you need to turn the bowl over, put it on its feet and fill the gap near the wall with foam, sealant or tile adhesive.

Height is adjustable with special retractable legs

Advice! Foaming is necessary to prevent moisture from entering the gap, to ensure stability of the bowl if the load on one edge exceeds acceptable standards. To make the junction look aesthetically pleasing, it is decorated plastic corner, painted over or tiled.

Connecting the corrugated pipe and piping is the next step. Installation is carried out in the direction of the strapping and then the nut is tightened.
Knowing how to secure a steel bathtub and having completed all the steps, you need to check the correctness of the connection. To do this, water is drawn into the bowl and possible leaks are inspected. If the plug in the font is closed, but there is water leaking out, it means that the gasket is not installed well enough or the nut is not tightened completely. If there are no leaks, you need to drain the water and inspect the connection of the piping.
The last check will show how tight the connections are: wipe the floor under the bathroom dry, put toilet paper or blotting paper under the pipes. Fill the font with water to half the level (preferably boiling water), open the plug and wait until it drains completely. The paper is dry - everything is sealed and the insulation of the steel bath is perfect.

Important! Be sure to ground the steel bathtub! The procedure is simple: one end of the wire is attached to a metal structure, the other end is in the bathtub bowl. Under no circumstances should the bowl be grounded to the plumbing or heating system!

Insulation of a steel bath

Insulation of the font with polyurethane foam

It’s clear how to fix a metal bathtub; now it needs to be insulated. The need for this action is determined by the thinness of the walls of the iron bowl and high qualities thermal conductivity. Insulation of a steel bath can be done in two ways:

Foam the outer surface of the bowl with regular mounting foam. This must be done without skipping and as carefully as possible. If, after the final insulation, additional decoration of the font is planned, the foam needs to be leveled.

Advice! After complete hardening, the foam can be painted, sewn up with plastic, or protected in some other way.

The bathtub bowl is framed with wooden/steel/plastic guides, creating the appearance of a lathing (frame). Then the structure is tiled. So when filling the bath hot water a thermos effect is created, that is, the air space between the bathtub wall and the tile heats up and retains heat.

Thermal insulation of a steel bathtub is not difficult, but necessary. A well-known decorative technique is leveling polyurethane foam with the effect of creating relief plaster, followed by painting with waterproof enamel. Foaming a steel bathtub is not at all difficult, but if you want to achieve the perfect effect, silicone sealant is applied on top of the foam. The method guarantees perfect preservation heat, which means the consumption of boiling water will decrease several times.

Installation of an iron bathtub on bricks

Design diagram installed bath on bricks

Installing a steel bathtub on bricks is an option for users who prefer durability and reliability of installation. Experts believe that assembling a steel bathtub and installing it on supports will not provide the necessary immobility of the bowl and therefore strongly recommend using this method.

Assembling an iron bowl is extremely simple: each model is equipped with a set of supports, and there is a place for fastening at the bottom of the bowl. The presence of studs and washers guarantees durable reliable fastening. If the need arises, a set of adjustable legs can be purchased separately, as well as decorative pads for the supports. This will give the interior additional personality.

Installing a steel bathtub on bricks guarantees the immobility of the bowl, and this is required in order to:

achieving maximum convenience when using the bowl;
to avoid cracking of the joints at the junction of the sides and walls.

Advice! Cracks must be eliminated, since when using the bathtub, moisture can settle in them, and dampness contributes to the appearance of fungus, mold and further destruction of the lining.

How to fix a metal bathtub on a brick pad? First, you need to stock up on red brick, in sufficient quantity so that when installing the font, the upper edge of the side is at least 60 cm from the floor level. The required number of racks is selected according to the length of the bath. The distance between the posts must be at least 50 cm!

How to properly install a metal bathtub on bricks:

Prepare necessary tools And consumables. If the font has a standard length, you will need approximately 2 supports (2-3 rows high), 20-22 bricks, and for the recess under the bottom there is another half brick along the edge. The height of the support at the rear must exceed the height of the front wall of the support by 20 mm. This is necessary to ensure tilt.

Important! If the font design already has a slope/angle, then the height of the front support can be reduced to 10 mm.

Fastening a steel bathtub to bricks is done using cement mortar, which needs to be prepared in advance. To do this, mix 1 part cement powder with 4 parts fine sand. Added required quantity water and after laying out the brick support, the structure is left for about 24 hours for better adhesion.

Finished view of a brick structure for a bathtub

Important! Before strengthening the steel bathtub with bricks, it is necessary to arrange a drain. Information on how to do this is above.

Installation of a metal bath on bricks should be done as carefully and carefully as possible. You need to move the bowl towards the wall panel very carefully, but firmly. Tile adhesive, a metal profile, screws or dowels will help fix the structure.

Advice! If you don't know how to securely install a steel bathtub on supports, use tape sealant.

After complete sealing, the bathtub bowl must be connected to the sewerage and water supply systems.

Installation of taps and a protective decorative screen completes the process of installing an iron bathtub. Now you know how to properly secure a steel bathtub, but if you have questions, the video below will provide answers to possible problems.

Many users have no idea how to lift a steel bathtub. Everything is simple here: the bowl is lightweight, so when standard sizes, the home master can handle the mass of the font without any problems.

In conclusion

There are many possibilities on how to secure an iron bathtub. The instructions included with the hot tub upon sale clearly explain all installation options. But if you don’t have the knowledge, time and energy to do the installation yourself, a professional will tell you how to fix a steel bathtub.