A homemade wind generator is an installation for generating electrical energy through the use of wind. Such devices are usually used as an alternative source of electricity. A homemade wind generator for a home is capable of fully providing electricity to a family of several people. Such installations are in an efficient way electricity generation in populated areas, which are remote from central power grids. A wind generator is driven by wind force, which is then converted into rotational energy. 30 kW installations can be used as an autonomous source of electricity to meet the needs of industrial and residential facilities.

Features of homemade wind generators

To provide electricity private house You can use a vertical wind generator with a power of up to 2 kW. The operating principle of a wind-electric installation is to convert the kinetic energy of the wind flow into mechanical energy of the blades. Mechanical energy in turn rotates the rotor and generates electric current.

A standard wind generator consists of the following components:

• rotating blades
• turbine rotor
• generator and its axis
• inverter that converts alternating current into direct current
• battery

The wind generator can be additionally equipped with a controller. A homemade controller for a wind generator is used to charge the battery and monitor the battery condition. When the battery is fully charged, the controller stops the windmill.

The operation of a wind generator is carried out as follows. When the rotor rotates, three-phase alternating current is generated, which is sent through the controller and then recharges the DC battery. The inverter then converts the current for consumption and turns it on to provide lighting and power for the TV, refrigerator and other household appliances.

Types of wind generators

Wind turbines can differ in the following parameters:

• number of blades
• manufacturing materials
• orientation of the axis of rotation relative to the surface of the earth
• screw pitch sign

Multi-blade models are more efficient than two- or three-blade models because they move with the smallest air currents. The blades can be rigid or sail-like. Rigid ones are usually made of metal or fiberglass. In the direction of the axis of rotation, vertical and horizontal modifications are distinguished.

Wind generators with a horizontal axis of rotor rotation have become more widely used. These settings are different high efficiency, improved protection against hurricane gusts of wind and simple power adjustment. Vertical models are easy to install, silent and can operate even in light gusts of wind.

Model with neodymium magnets

Homemade wind generators using neodymium magnets are becoming increasingly popular in many Russian regions. As the basis for such a device, it is necessary to use a hub from a car with brake discs. It is better to disassemble the part and check for serviceability by lubricating the bearings and removing rust.

Neodymium magnets are glued to the rotor discs. For example, you can take twenty magnets small size. When choosing the number of magnets, you need to remember that in a single-phase generator the number of poles must match the number of magnetic elements. For a three-phase model, this ratio can be 2 to 3 or 4 to 3. During the installation of magnets, you need to alternate their poles. To avoid mistakes, it is advisable to use rectangular magnets. To attach magnets you need to use the most reliable glue.

A video on assembling such a generator can be viewed here:

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A magnetic generator will work efficiently if the stator coils are correctly sized. It is known from experience that to charge a 12 V battery, about 1000 turns should be equally distributed in the coils. The coils are wound with thick wires to reduce resistance. The wind generator mast must be six meters or more in height. You need to dig a hole under the mast and then pour concrete. The blades for the device are made of polyvinyl chloride pipes.

Model from a car generator

A homemade wind generator from a car generator must be made from components (battery, relay, etc.) from one car. At the same time, to create a windmill it is better to use car generator from powerful equipment (for example, from a tractor).

Since consumers need alternating current, it is necessary to provide an inverter or converter. In regions with high speed wind, wind generators can be installed to generate greater power.

To assemble this model you will need the following:

• 12V car generator
• battery
• voltmeter
• battery charging relay
• blades
• fastening material

First, the rotor is made. The optimal solution will be the creation of a rotor wheel of four blades. This element is made from sheet iron. If possible, you can use an iron barrel.

The finished windmill is connected to the generator axis. To do this, a hole is drilled and the connection is secured with bolts. After this it is going electrical diagram and the mast is installed. Then you need to secure the car generator with wires that connect to the battery and voltage converter. For correct assembly It is better to use prepared drawings.

Such an installation can be installed quickly enough without any particular difficulties. This wind generator is good for its simplicity, reliability and silent operation.

A video of the assembly of such a wind generator can be viewed here:

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Model from an asynchronous motor

Homemade wind generators from asynchronous motor up to 10 kW are widely used for domestic purposes. To manufacture such a device, it is first necessary to select a low-speed electric motor that has three or four pairs of poles.

To change the engine to suit the needs of the generator, it is necessary to machine the rotor and glue the magnets to it using epoxy glue. The stator is rewound with thicker wire to increase the current. The rotor can be grooved using lathe.

Before gluing the magnets, the rotor must be marked with poles. In order to calculate required quantity magnets, you need to determine the circumference of the rotor after grooving. This length corresponds to the height of the sleeve. The thickness of the magnets should be in the range (0.1-0.15) D, where D is the diameter of the rotor circumference. After this, the number of sections where magnets with one pole will be glued is calculated. The number of sections will be L/p, where p is the number of poles of the electric motor, and L is the height of the sleeve.

The magnets should be positioned at a slight angle. The poles must alternate. The magnets are placed tightly to each other and, after gluing to epoxy, are wrapped with tape.

A video with such a wind generator model can be viewed here:

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Once the wind generator assembly is complete, it should be tested for power output. To do this, the rotor is rotated at a speed that corresponds to the rated speed of the modified electric motor. Such tests can be done using a drill and light bulbs with different wattages.

The optimal wind generator option must be selected based on required power from climatic conditions specific region.

This section presents homemade wind generators with generators based on converted asynchronous motors. Wind generators based on such motors are very popular, since asynchronous motors are widespread and can be easily converted. The alteration mainly consists of rewinding the stator, although not always; if the engine is multi-lane and low-speed, then it does not need to be rewinded. Also, the rotor of such engines is machined and equipped with permanent magnets, as a result the engine turns into a low-speed generator for a windmill.

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Wind generator based on an asynchronous motor with a wooden propeller

A short description and photographs of a homemade wind generator based on an asynchronous motor, which is converted to naodymium magnets

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Wind generators from a motor-wheel

The article contains a short description with photos of wind generators with generators, which are a wheel motor. Eat different designs according to the type of fastening of the motor wheel

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Wind generator 1kW from an asynchronous motor

Wind generator from an asynchronous motor 1500 watt, 1500 rpm, four-pole, which was converted to permanent magnets, and the stator is rewound by 12 poles. The protection scheme against strong wind is classic with the generator axis shifted from the center. The windmill runs on night lighting that turns on automatically.

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Converting an asynchronous motor into a generator for a windmill

Building your own generator for a wind generator is, in principle and in essence, simple and can be easily accomplished without significant expenditure of both effort and money. To do this, you just need to convert the rotor to permanent magnets.

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Wind generator from an asynchronous motor

Another interesting photo story about converting an asynchronous motor into a generator for a wind generator. The engine rotor was machined for magnets, which were filled in as always epoxy resin. The stator was not rewound, so the generator turned out to be high-voltage with high phase resistance. The wind generator itself is made according to the classic design with a folding tail and is installed on a nine-meter mast.

> Photo story about the manufacture of a wind generator, its debugging and installation, preparation, anemometer. Testing and tests. This material was written based on a photo report by a user under the nickname Sergey, found on one of the forums. The first stage, calibration and installation of the anemometer, conversion of an asynchronous motor into a generator
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Previously, we have already considered, based on the popularity of this topic, we propose to create a wind generator from an asynchronous motor. It is necessary to slightly alter the electric motor; read on to find out how to do this.

How to make a wind generator with your own hands from an asynchronous motor

To make a generator for a wind generator, we will use an asynchronous motor.

To change the engine, you need to machine the rotor for the magnets, glue the magnets to the rotor and fill it with epoxy. In addition, the stator must be rewound with a thicker wire in order to lower the voltage and increase the current. But we decided to leave the engine untouched and just rework the rotor. We used a three-phase unit, its power is 1.32 kilowatts.

The motor rotor is machined on a lathe. Note that in the case of this rotor we did not use a sleeve, which is usually worn under magnets. Its presence is explained by the need to strengthen the magnetic induction; the magnets close the fields through the sleeve, the magnetic field does not dissipate, everything is directed towards the stator. This system involves the use of very strong magnets, the size of which is 7.6x6 millimeters. 160 pieces are taken, with their help they provide sufficient electric motor force even without a sleeve.

Initially, before gluing the magnets, the rotor is marked into 4 poles, and the magnets are arranged with a bevel. The motor had four poles, due to the fact that there was no rewinding of the stator, 5 must be present magnetic poles. Each pole is alternated, “south” and “north”. The poles need certain pauses; the magnets are located more tightly here. After we placed the magnets, they were wrapped with tape and fixed with epoxy.

The rotor was sticking, and there was also a problem during shaft rotation. We made some changes, removed the magnets and resin, and then re-placed the elements. At the same time, emphasis was placed on greater uniformity during installation. After filling, we realized that the sticking became less noticeable, in addition, the voltage during the rotation of the generator at the same speed became less, and the current indicator increased slightly.

We assembled a wind generator and decided to attach one or another device to it. It was decided to attach a lamp of 60 watts and 220 volts; at speeds from 800 to 1000 it became completely heated. In addition, to test the capabilities, we attached a light bulb whose power is 1 kilowatt. Half heating level was provided. At 800 rpm the voltage level was 160 volts. In addition, we tried to connect a 0.5 kilowatt boiler, the water heated up very quickly.

Let's take a closer look at the screw. The material for the blades was a polyvinyl chloride pipe, the diameter of which was 160 millimeters. In the photograph you can see the propeller, its diameter is 1.7 meters; here is the information on the basis of which the blades were made.

A little later we made a stand that has a swivel axis to allow the tail and generator to be attached. The system has a design in which the wind head moves away from the wind using tail folding. That is why there is a certain offset from the axial center of the system, with the pin located at the rear (the pin intended for the tail).

We attached the wind generator with our own hands to a mast, the length of which is nine meters. The generator provided an idle voltage that reached 80 volts. We tried to connect a two-kilowatt tenna, after a certain period of time it heated up, accordingly, we can conclude that the windmill has a certain power.

Then we assembled a special controller, after which we connected the battery to charging using it. A good current indicator was provided, but noise appeared, similar to what happens when using charging devices.

In accordance with the data on the electric motor, the indicators were equal to 220-380 volts, with a current strength of 6.2 to 3.6 amperes, respectively, the resistance of the unit was equal to 35.4 ohm triangle / 105.5 ohm star. In the case of a twelve-volt battery charged according to a pattern such as a “triangle” (the most common option), it turns out that at a wind speed of 8 to 9 meters per second, the current is about 1.9 amperes, which is equal to only 23 watts per second. hour.

Such a significant drop is explained high level resistance of the generator, it is for this reason that the stator is rewinded with a wire of greater thickness, thanks to which a decrease in the resistance of the unit is guaranteed, on which the current indicator also depends.

We hope our instructions on how to create a wind generator for your home with your own hands from an asynchronous motor will help you make a wind generator.

An asynchronous or induction type generator is special variety devices that use alternating current and have the ability to reproduce electricity. Main feature is the making of fairly fast turns that the rotor makes; in terms of the speed of rotation of this element, it is significantly superior to the synchronous variety.

One of the main advantages is the ability to use this device without significant circuit modifications or lengthy setup.

A single-phase type of induction generator can be connected by applying the required voltage to it, this will require connecting it to a power source. However, a number of models produce self-excitation; this ability allows them to function in a mode independent of any external sources.

This is accomplished by sequentially bringing the capacitors into working condition.

Generator circuit from an asynchronous motor

generator circuit based on an asynchronous motor

In virtually any car electric type, designed as a generator, there are 2 different active windings, without which the operation of the device is impossible:

1. Field winding, which is located on a special anchor.
2. Stator winding, which is responsible for the formation of electric current, this process happens inside her.

In order to visualize and more accurately understand all the processes occurring during the operation of the generator, the best option would be to take a closer look at its operation diagram:

1. Voltage, which is supplied from a battery or any other source, creates a magnetic field in the armature winding.
2. Rotating device elements together with a magnetic field it is possible to realize in different ways, including manually.
3. Magnetic field, rotating at a certain speed, generates electromagnetic induction, due to which an electric current appears in the winding.
4. The vast majority of schemes used today does not have the ability to provide voltage to the armature winding, this is due to the presence of a squirrel-cage rotor in the design. Therefore, regardless of the speed and time of shaft rotation, the power supply devices will still be de-energized.

When converting an engine into a generator, self-creation a moving magnetic field is one of the basic and mandatory conditions.

Generator device

Before taking any action to remodelinto the generator, you need to understand the structure of this machine, which looks like this:

1. Stator, which is equipped with a 3-phase network winding located on its working surface.
2. Winding organized in such a way that it resembles a star in shape: 3 initial elements are connected to each other, and 3 opposite sides are connected to slip rings that do not have any points of contact with each other.
3. Slip rings have reliable fastening to the rotor shaft.
4. In design There are special brushes that do not make any independent movements, but contribute to the inclusion of a rheostat with three phases. This allows you to change the resistance parameters of the winding located on the rotor.
5. Often, in internal structure There is such an element as an automatic short-circuiter, which is necessary to short-circuit the winding and stop the rheostat, which is in working condition.
6. One more additional element generator devices may be special device, which separates the brushes and slip rings at the moment when they go through the closing stage. This measure helps to significantly reduce friction losses.

Making a generator from an engine

In fact, any asynchronous electric motor Can with my own hands converted into a device that functions like a generator, which can then be used in everyday life. Even an engine taken from washing machine old model or any other household equipment.

In order for this process to be successfully implemented, it is recommended to adhere to the following algorithm of actions:

1. Remove the engine core layer, due to which a depression will be formed in its structure. This can be done on a lathe; it is recommended to remove 2 mm. throughout the core and make additional holes with a depth of about 5 mm.
2. Take dimensions from the resulting rotor, after which a template in the form of a strip is made from tin material, which will correspond to the dimensions of the device.
3. Install in the resulting free space there are neodymium magnets, which must be purchased in advance. Each pole will require at least 8 magnetic elements.
4. Fixation of magnets can be done using universal superglue, but it must be taken into account that when approaching the surface of the rotor they will change their position, so they must be held firmly with your hands until each element is glued. Additionally, it is recommended to use safety glasses during this process to avoid any glue splashing into your eyes.
5. Wrap the rotor plain paper and tape that will be needed to secure it.
6. The end part of the rotor cover with plasticine, which will ensure sealing of the device.
7. After completed actions it is necessary to process the free cavities between the magnetic elements. To do this, the remaining free space between the magnets must be filled with epoxy resin. It will be most convenient to cut through special hole in the shell, transform it into a neck and seal the borders with plasticine. You can pour resin inside.
8. Wait until it hardens completely filled with resin, after which the protective paper shell can be removed.
9. The rotor must be fixed using a machine or a vice so that it can be processed, which consists of grinding the surface. For these purposes you can use sandpaper with medium grain size.
10. Determine state and the purpose of the wires coming out of the engine. Two should lead to the working winding, the rest can be cut off so as not to get confused in the future.
11. Sometimes the rotation process is quite poor, most often the cause is old worn out and tight bearings, in which case they can be replaced with new ones.
12. Rectifier for generator can be assembled from special silicon, which are designed specifically for these purposes. You also won’t need a controller for charging; virtually all modern models are suitable.

After all the above steps have been completed, the process can be considered complete; the asynchronous motor has been converted into a generator of the same type.

Assessing the level of efficiency - is it profitable?

The generation of electric current by an electric motor is quite real and feasible in practice, the main question is how profitable is it?

The comparison is made primarily with a synchronous version of a similar device, in which there is no electrical excitation circuit, but despite this fact, its structure and design are not simpler.

This is due to the presence of a capacitor bank, which is an extremely technically complex element that is absent in an asynchronous generator.

The main advantage of an asynchronous device is that the available capacitors do not require any maintenance, since all the energy is transferred from the magnetic field of the rotor and the current that is generated during the operation of the generator.

The electric current created during operation has virtually no higher harmonics, which is another significant advantage.

Asynchronous devices do not have any other advantages besides those mentioned, but they do have a number of significant disadvantages:

1. During their operation there is no possibility of ensuring the nominal industrial parameters of the electric current generated by the generator.
2. High degree of sensitivity even to the slightest changes in workload parameters.
3. If the permissible load parameters on the generator are exceeded, a lack of electricity will be detected, after which recharging will become impossible and the generation process will be stopped. To eliminate this drawback, batteries with significant capacity are often used, which have the ability to change their volume depending on the magnitude of the loads applied.

The electric current produced by an asynchronous generator is subject to frequent changes, the nature of which is unknown, it is random and cannot be explained in any way by scientific arguments.

The impossibility of taking into account and appropriate compensation for such changes explains the fact that such devices have not gained popularity and have not become particularly widespread in the most serious industries or household affairs.

Functioning of an asynchronous motor as a generator

In accordance with the principles on which all such machines operate, the operation of an induction motor after conversion into a generator occurs as follows:

1. After connecting the capacitors to the terminals, a number of processes occur on the stator windings. In particular, a leading current begins to move in the winding, which creates a magnetization effect.
2. Only if the capacitors match parameters of the required capacity, the device self-excites. This promotes a symmetrical 3-phase voltage system on the stator winding.
3. Final voltage value will depend on the technical capabilities of the machine used, as well as on the capabilities of the capacitors used.

Thanks to the described actions, the process of converting a squirrel-cage asynchronous motor into a generator with similar characteristics occurs.

Application

In everyday life and in production, such generators are widely used in various fields and areas, but they are most in demand to perform the following functions:

1. Use as engines for , this is one of the most popular features. Many people make their own asynchronous generators to use them for these purposes.
2. Work as a hydroelectric power station with little output.
3. Providing food and electricity in a city apartment, private country house or separate household equipment.
4. Perform basic functions welding generator.
5. Uninterrupted equipment alternating current of individual consumers.

It is necessary to have certain skills and knowledge not only in the manufacture, but also in the operation of such machines; the following tips can help with this:

1. Any type of asynchronous generators Regardless of the area in which they are used, it is a dangerous device, for this reason it is recommended to isolate it.
2. During the manufacturing process of the device installation needs to be considered measuring instruments, since it will be necessary to obtain data on its functioning and operating parameters.
3. Availability of special buttons, with which you can control the device, greatly facilitates the operation process.
4. Grounding is mandatory requirement, which must be implemented before operating the generator.
5. During work, The efficiency of an asynchronous device can periodically decrease by 30-50%; it is not possible to overcome the occurrence of this problem, since this process is an integral part of energy conversion.

Verification: 72146f0e872f9296

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Selling wind generator 300 watt power, with plastic blades, rotating device, with charge controller. Suitable for lighting a small home without any problems. Possibility of connecting an inverter and obtaining full 220V for connecting a TV, computer and other devices, for lighting the facade of a house, for alternative power supply of video cameras and burglar alarm, for fishermen and beekeepers, for dachas and farms remote from state energy.

The disk contains many programs, also a lot of literature, in general, let's watch the presentation.

The third version of this disk has appeared, now the disk has even more powerful content (more than 20 programs, 37 films, 22 books, one interactive, detailed description 3 wind generators, and also contains a detailed description for manufacturing solar panels). And that's not all, Disk has access to a free Internet library, a forum on alternative energy, and my website. You will be pleased with the user-friendly interface). For those who have access to the Internet and there are no restrictions on downloading, you can purchase the files on this disc for the equivalent of $10. To do this, contact me via Email- [email protected] As soon as I receive the money, I immediately send a file and passwords to it to your address. The disk contains information about the calculations and construction of wind generators. There are a lot of photos, videos, there is a video in 3-D detailing of the generator, a lot of books, and software. Everything is fair. My website http://site/

My email yalovenkoval @i.ua

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and now, as I promised, I’m posting full description, drawings, as well as the opportunity to fully understand and manufacture a really working wind generator design based on an ASYNCHRONOUS motor. In this article I will try to describe without concealment all the nuances of building a windmill that I encountered during manufacture, and I think many of you will be able to not only repeat it, but also make it better and more powerful, the main thing is to have a great desire and figure it out.

It’s probably not worth telling that the INTERNET is littered with information about the construction of wind turbines, but a lot of it is just Flood, or this information is paid. I don’t ask for money, but I don’t refuse, any work should be ennobled, and if I helped you, and if you are not indifferent, and you have the desire and opportunity to help at least a little, you can transfer any possible amount, ( possible options via Email),and you will also have the opportunity to communicate via SKYPE or by phone.

Best regards, Valery.

WIND GENERATOR WITH AN INDUCTION ELECTRIC MOTOR from Valery.

Let's start with the fact that there are at least three ways to create a wind generator from an asynchronous motor.

FIRST- the simplest, but also the most ineffective for a wind generator, the essence is this, you need to find a working asynchronous electric motor, preferably up to 1000 RPM, i.e. the most best option this is a motor that has 6 or 8 poles, you can read http://model.exponenta.ru/electro/0080.htm and here http://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%90%D1%81%D0 %B8%D0%BD%D1%85%D1%80%D0%BE%D0%BD%D0%BD%D0%B0%D1%8F_%D0%BC%D0%B0%D1%88%D0%B8 %D0%BD%D0%B0 nothing has been changed in the engine. We connect the capacitors, attach a multiplier (step-up gearbox), so that the electric motor reaches its rated speed with minimal wind, which can ensure the generator operates in nominal mode. This design can be implemented in sailing wind generators, where there is a very large torque. As a rule, this option is more used to generate electricity when the generator is forced to spin up by an internal combustion engine. http://rove.biz/index.php/sdelai-sam/220-380

SECOND- the option is more complex, but also much more effective. This option is described in some detail by Nikolai http://tng-forum.ru/topic55.html, so here it is in a nutshell; It is necessary to find a working low-speed electric motor with 6 or 8 poles (up to 1000 RPM). The stator is not rewound; only the armature itself is altered. Since the prices for NEODYMIUM magnets are very high, it is necessary to somehow save on them, and in order to save on magnets and not lose power, it is imperative to place a metal sleeve under the magnets (so that the magnetic fields are closed through the metal and not through the air). Therefore, the armature must be machined to the depth of the sleeve + magnet + gap between the stator and the armature, press the sleeve in, then glue Right magnets (after making a fur coat for magnets). More best option, if it is possible to machine a completely new armature for magnets. The result is a good generator, which at rated speed produces three phases of 220V.

There are a few pitfalls here that many remain silent about - the thickness of the sleeve should be no less than the thickness of the magnet (ideally equal to approximately width magnet) In order not to doubt the thickness of the sleeve, you can easily check everything - we apply two magnets with different poles to the sleeve, while using a screwdriver with inside The sleeve should not be magnetized; if this is the case, then the thickness of the sleeve is correct. Optimal thickness magnet is calculated using the formula:

S /8+Z =M S groove height+yoke

M -Z =S /8 Z gap between stator and armature

M -Z *8=S M magnet height

And one more basic condition - it is imperative to bevel the magnetic poles, otherwise it will be quite difficult to turn the armature, there will be strong sticking, which we do not need.

The easiest way to get rid of sticking is to make a bevel on magnets, usually everyone writes on the forums that the bevel is done on an obvious magnet, but it would probably be more correct to say: - bevel on a tooth + groove (on the stator), with minimal sticking.

The ratio of coils to magnets should be 3 to 2, i.e. for every three coils there should be two poles (S and N), for example, if there are 54 slots on the stator and a coil is wound on each tooth, the generator is three-phase (in one phase we get 54/3 = 18 coils per phase), then these 54 The coil should arrive at 54/3*2=36 magnetic poles (18S and 18N). Ideally, there should always be 1.5 times fewer magnets than coils (for a three-phase generator).

And finally, THIRD option - it is the most difficult, there is a lot of turning work, but this option is the most effective. The whole difficulty is that the generator is made from *scratch*, i.e. Only the stator iron is used from the electric motor, everything else is your creative work! This option is good because you can wind the generator yourself to any output voltage you need, and thereby adjust the operation of the windmill to your needs.

In order to make a good generator you need, say, from scrap metal, to find the stator of a low-speed engine. The one with the number of slots is 36,48,54 or 72 is suitable, and the more slots, the slower the generator will be, and the larger the diameter of the stator, the more power can be removed from it. But in this case, the weight of NEODYMIUM magnets increases, and this is already a decent expense; here is exactly the moment where you need to choose between expenses and the output power of the generator. In order not to strain your brain with all sorts of formulas for calculating the output power of the generator, it is enough to understand that the weight of the magnets is approximately the output power of the generator, for example, the total weight of the magnets is 1 kg, then the power of the generator will be approximately 1 kW.

These were general aspects of making windmills with an asynchronous motor, and now a description of my windmill.

WE LEARN FROM OTHERS' MISTAKES, AND WE MAKE OUR OWN MISTAKES...

- the first axiom from Valery

After production axial generator http://valerayalovencko.narod2.ru, I wanted to try to make the generator more powerful, and this is where I began studying the theory of making generators from asynchronous motors.

I received the main breakthrough in knowledge about generators after meeting SERGEY SAVCHENKO aka SERGEY VETROV http://ser-vetrov2012-savchenko.narod2.ru. That's when everything moved from a dead point. As Sergey said from his experience, for an ideal generator you need to look for the electric motor stator according to the following parameters:

Stator inner diameter number of teeth

240-330mm 54-72

Three-phase generator winding

First of all, it was necessary to find stator iron for the future gene. I visited scrap metal collection points several times and there I found a burnt-out 4 kW engine, and although the stator did not quite fit the required parameters (54 slots on the stator, tooth width 5 mm, slot width 3 mm, internal diameter of the stator 130 mm), nevertheless I decided to try to make a gene with of what is.

The motor housing was cast iron, I did not intend to use it, so I cut it on both sides with a grinder, inserted a chisel and split the cast iron housing with a hammer. After that, without any problems, I pulled out the motor stator and cut off all the windings from it.

Then, with a thin chisel, I cut off the fixing brackets (I had 6 of them on the stator), measured and cut off the 40mm of iron I needed, to the size of the magnets.

I used NEODYMIUM magnets N 38 with dimensions 40*10*5.

I bought magnets via the Internet http://neodim.if.ua/, I was satisfied with the services of this site, they were sent quickly and without problems by new mail, even to my surprise they were a little lower in price. The dimensions of these magnets fit my stator well (let me remind you, three teeth or two magnets).

I decided to do the bevel of magnetic fields on iron.

To prevent the iron from falling apart, I inserted electrodes without coating into the grooves (they fit just right). Using a sharp knife, I separated each plate, and all this constantly remained on two oppositely inserted electrodes (so as not to disrupt the factory sequence of the plates).

When all the plates were disconnected, I turned the iron on the electrodes to bevel an equal tooth + groove, fixed it all with clamps, flat surface Using a corner, I adjusted the alignment of all the plates, and in the place where the fixing brackets stood, I welded the iron with electric welding. I got a finished bagel with the bevel I needed.

Since the required pipe under O.D. I couldn’t find the stator, I decided to use a larger diameter pipe, welded guide segments inside this pipe and machined them to the outer diameter of the stator I needed.

A drawing was drawn

according to which my godfather VITALY ZAVGORODNY, fulfilling all my turning requests, turned the body, and then all the other parts of the generator. Here on a separate line:-

HUGE THANK YOU , since at least 50% of the generator is the merit of the godfather.

The bearing assembly was taken ready-made - this is the front hub of a VAZ car.

I tried to make the entire structure as compact as possible, thereby reducing weight without damaging the generator. A load-bearing plane was made to which all the load-bearing elements of the structure are attached.

The anchor was also made from a pipe of only a smaller diameter; the anchor is also an element for fastening the swings of the blades. I increased the thickness of the armature, exactly the place where the magnets are glued in, to reliably close the magnetic fields. To do this, three thick washers turned from metal were pressed into the inside of the sleeve and welded (since I did not have a whole piece of such a metal blank). Three holes were milled on the sleeve for the swing of the blades with a diameter of 35 mm at an angle of 120 degrees. Sergey Vetrov helped me with this http://ser-vetrov2012-savchenko.narod2.ru, he also milled the grooves in the cups for the swing of the blades, and welded these cups to the armature sleeve.

The armature axis is also from the front hub of a VAZ, only the ears on it were cut off on a lathe for ball joints. The axle is pressed into the armature sleeve and bolted.

36 magnets were glued to the anchor. Before pasting, the anchor was drawn out on a machine, but since it was not possible to draw it into 36 parts, it was necessary to draw it into 12 parts, i.e. There were three magnets in one sector.

First, all the magnets were glued, say pole S,

and then, without any problems, all the magnets with the N pole were glued between them (every other).

I used two-component glue, squeezed it out drop by drop directly onto the magnet S and mixed it directly on the magnet, and when gluing the N poles, I mixed the glue directly on the armature between the magnets.

Before winding the stator, you need to decide which wire to wind and how many turns to wind. To do this, we wind at least three coils with different wires, assemble the entire structure and test it at constant speeds. I tested on a 400 RPM lathe. At the same time, we measure voltage and current as at XX ( idling) and with the load. We record all the data, decide what voltage we need the generator for, and wind what we need.

The current in the circuit will not change, but the voltage must be multiplied by the number of coils in the phase, and then by a factor of 1.73 - this is for variable, and for constant, the result obtained must be multiplied by a factor of 1.4. At the same time (for example my genes), we have: 2*18*1.73*1.4=87.2V constant at 400 RPM. Since the dependence on revolutions is linear, then at 200 RPM we get 44V constant, minus losses on the wires, and we have an excellent result for charging two or three batteries.

THE MORE PRACTICE, THE MORE QUESTIONS IN THE THEORY.

-second axiom from Valery.

And so, having decided on the number of turns and the thickness of the wire, we wind all the coils. For winding, I made a simple device; I wound the coils on a homemade machine. http://youtu.be/8jmUUkRW11k I bought the wire in Kharkov, at the company LLC * KHARELEKTROMET *.

Several devices for forming and laying coils were also made, as well as insulating material(electric cardboard).

Then we place all the coils in the stator slots,

solder correctly for three-phase generator– the beginning of the first reel with the end of the fourth, the beginning of the fourth with the end of the seventh, the beginning of the seventh with the end of the tenth, etc. We solder the second and third phases in the same way.

Then we wrap the windings with keeper tape, I didn’t have it, I fastened the windings with regular thick thread.

We saturate all the windings with varnish (I used regular parquet), and bake the whole pancake. I baked in an old gas oven for two hours, at a temperature of more than 100 degrees (the sensor did not work). The result is a pretty good stator impregnated with varnish.

All that remains is to make a protective boot on the front of the genes, paint all the elements and assemble the structure into one unit, and do not forget to lubricate the bearings.

The very first tests, running the generator on a lathe, the result on video

From the very beginning, I planned to make some kind of simple rotary unit for the blades of a variable pitch propeller (variable pitch propeller). The idea of ​​the CVS was suggested by Sergei Vetrov. Three thrust cups were made (in which Sergei milled an oblique groove),

three rotary axes with flanges are machined. To make it easy to set the wedge angle of the blade, three more cups were made into which the blades were glued. The glass on the blade has a fungus that is pressed against the second flange and fixes any jamming angle of the blade.

The support bearing on the swing axis was taken from the king pin of a *VOLGA* car, and the springs were taken from the valve mechanism of an unknown car.

The principle of operation of the rotary propeller is very simple - as the rotation speed increases, the blade, under the influence of centrifugal force, begins to move along the groove, and at the same time scrolls to the vane position. This ensures stable speed in any gust of wind. All rubbing parts are lubricated, the axis inside the glass is fixed with a corkscrew bolt. This entire device is covered with a boot (the boot fits perfectly from the steering rack of the *TAVRIA* car)

When the entire mechanism is assembled,

it is necessary to adjust the equal forces on the springs, the easiest way is to use scales. Using the nut on the swing axis, we adjust the spring force, setting the same lift-off moment on all swings of the blades. We set the lift-off weight experimentally, it all depends on the weight of the blade and the rotation speed. We close the CVS mechanism with a pre-machined cap. The protective cap was poured with epoxy + wood dust in a suitable form, followed by turning on a lathe. I attached a contact block to the generator, on which you can easily switch the connections of the windings, and a three-phase bridge from which two wires already go down to the ground.

The rotary unit is made in the same way as in the previous design, i.e. on the mast there are two bearings 206 mounted on an axle with a hole,

and a sleeve with welded generator mounting elements is pressed onto the bearings.

To attach the generator to the mast, I used parts from a Buryak combine. The tail is made of PCB and fixed coaxially with the generator. For reliable protection from hurricane winds, the generator was mounted on a shock absorber.

The entire structure is durable and compact,

Now I have to do a small modification of the mast and make a controller.

I’m thinking of describing everything in detail closer to winter, since it’s already summer, and this is a time of work and rest, and there’s not enough money and time for everything.

To be continued…

Well, as promised, I decided to finish the article, I’m still not entirely sure how It’s hard for me to succeed, but I’ll try.

I'll start with the fact that I modified the mast a little. Now I added another flange. I also did another series of stretches. The height of the mast at the moment is 10 meters, although in the future I plan to raise it by 12 meters, this is the minimum height at which more uniform winds begin.

Initially, the Controller was made according to a proven scheme,

with only one difference: instead of a relay, I installed a powerful field-effect transistor, which directly turns on the ballast after the battery is fully charged. .Setting up the circuit is not complicated, you just need to set the upper and lower response thresholds.

But. then a simpler and more reliable controller was made with the ability to independently charge different batteries, and the ability to switch to 12 and 24 volt mode.

This is what it looks like inside

The performance of this controller, and at the same time the wind generator, can be seen here

For emergency braking of a windmill, say in the event of a hurricane, forced activation of the ballast through a relay is provided. The optimal generator load during braking should be 50 percent of the generator efficiency. In more understandable language, the load resistance must be equal to the generator resistance, only in this case the generator is effectively braked.

Made plastic blades with a diameter of 2.6 meters sergeyvetrov here is his website http://ser-vetrov2012-savchenko.narod2.ru, for which many thanks to him.

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