Insulating the ceiling in a private house can significantly reduce the amount of heat loss during the cold period and significantly improve the indoor microclimate in the summer. High-quality thermal insulation will give you, in addition to increased comfort, significant savings. family budget on heating. The costs associated with the purchase of insulation will pay off in 2-3 years.
In addition to reducing the cost of heating a house, floor insulation solves a number of other problems. Preventing admission warm air in the attic, the insulating structure prevents the accumulation of water vapor and moisture in the under-roof space, which damages the rafters and floor beams. In addition, insulation allows you to avoid melting snow on the roof and the formation of large icicles, which are very dangerous during thaws. When organizing living space in the attic, the soundproofing function is very useful. In any case, ceiling insulation is a necessary measure for a private home.
Anyone can carry out ceiling insulation work home handyman. Installation requires a minimum level of initial training for the performer. The tips below will help you avoid typical mistakes and carry out the planned work quickly, without exerting extra effort. By carefully planning the work process and preparing in a timely manner necessary materials V the right quantity, you will save your time, nerves and transportation costs. Let's take a closer look at how to properly insulate a ceiling in a private home.
Where to insulate the ceiling: inside or outside
Ceiling insulation in a private house can be carried out both from the inside and from the outside. Both options give quite good results. They differ in the materials used and the methods of their installation, so each master chooses an option that is convenient for himself for specific living conditions taking into account economic feasibility.
Options for attic insulation
With external insulation, the insulation is installed in the attic. If the attic space is not used, then the insulation in decorative finishing does not need, which distinguishes this option from the previous one. In addition, with external insulation it's much more convenient to work.
Internal insulation provides for fastening thermal insulation materials on inner surface ceiling and installation suspended structures from plasterboard, plastic, wood, etc. It must be taken into account that when internal insulation 15-20 cm of room height is lost. Therefore, if your ceiling is at 2.5 m or lower, then you should give preference to insulation from the attic.
Internal insulation is worth choosing if you are going to do repairs and plan installation suspended ceiling. In all other cases, preference should be given to external insulation.
Selection of material for thermal insulation
The following thermal insulation materials are popular for insulating private houses:
- Foam;
- Expanded polystyrene;
- Penoizol;
- Polyurethane foam;
- Penofol;
- Mineral wool;
- Basalt wool;
- Ecowool;
- Expanded clay;
- Sawdust;
- Vermiculite;
- Dry grass, pine needles, reeds.
External insulation using polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam is perhaps one of the cheapest and available ways. This task is quite easy to complete on your own. The materials are resistant to moisture, do not rot, do not burn, but in the event of a fire they melt, releasing acrid, toxic smoke. Expanded polystyrene essentially consists of the same material as polystyrene foam, but is manufactured slightly differently. The main disadvantages are the release of toxic phosgene gas during combustion and a relatively short service life (up to 10 years). When using them, it is necessary to pay increased attention to fire safety.
Penoizol is a liquid foam plastic. Does not burn, is vapor permeable, biologically stable, and has superior thermal insulation properties to polystyrene foam. Manufacturers claim complete safety for humans after hardening. It is produced directly on site and installed using a special, expensive installation, so the work is carried out only by specialized teams. Convenient and economically feasible for large volumes.
Work is carried out similarly with polyurethane foam, which is synthesized from two liquid components. Depending on the proportion used, a polymer foam with different properties. The surface is covered with a continuous layer without joints, eliminating the possibility of blowing through cracks. Disadvantage - toxic substances are released when burned.
The process of pouring penoizol
Penofol is foamed polyethylene covered with aluminum foil. Prevents the penetration of cold air, drafts and radon, reflects radiant heat into the room. The material is very light, does not create additional loads, and works very well in combination with mineral wool. Due to its small thickness, it has almost no effect on the height of the room.
Mineral wool contains mainly natural materials: sand, rocks or melts. Available in rolls and sheets different sizes. Has good heat and sound insulation characteristics and affordable price. It needs protection from moisture, as when wet it completely loses its thermal insulation properties. It is resistant to temperature changes, restores its shape after load, but cakes over time. The material, unlike glass wool, is almost not itchy, but still requires protective equipment at work. The main disadvantage is the phenol content, which can easily penetrate human skin.
Basalt wool is made from rock melts. Available in the form of mats and slabs. Characterized by resistance to stress and high temperatures, hydrophobicity, elasticity. The material is capable of transmitting water vapor and does not allow it to accumulate inside, does not shrink and can withstand use for up to 70 years without loss of quality. Same as mineral wool, contains phenolic binders, and the fibers can irritate the skin and mucous membranes.
When carrying out work indoors, mineral wool or basalt wool is usually used. This vapor permeable materials that allow the ceiling to “breathe”.
Ecowool is a bulk material of natural origin, consisting of 80% cellulose with borate additives, which protect it from easy ignition and rotting. Laying work can be carried out wet method using a special installation and dry manually. Manual method extremely simple. It is enough to pour cotton wool between the joists onto previously laid glassine and lightly loosen it. Ecowool increases in volume by 2-3 times. The recommended layer thickness is 30 cm. The thermal conductivity is the same as that of mineral wool, while ecowool is not afraid of moisture and prevents the development of fungi and mold. Serves for more than 100 years.
Can be used for insulation attic floor cheap local materials such as expanded clay, sawdust, hay, pine needles, reeds, clay and slag. Their cost is often equal only to the cost of delivery, but their thermal insulation properties are noticeably lower and they are more difficult to install. Sawdust requires special protective treatment before laying. Otherwise, they can be damaged by rodents, rot and become very flammable. Hay is a tempting place for various small bugs and insects to settle. For a noticeable thermal insulation effect, all bulk insulation materials require a significant thickness - from 30 cm, which leads to a heavy load on the floors.
Good results are achieved by combining sawdust with vermiculite. Both materials are of natural origin, easily absorb moisture and easily release it, maintaining optimal humidity. Vermiculite is made from hydromica and is considered an ideal bulk insulation with environmentally friendly properties. In terms of thermal conductivity, it is comparable to mineral wool. The only drawback of vermiculite is the price.
Laying bulk insulation involves filling it between the joists or beams of a specially made sheathing.
If the environmental friendliness of materials is important to you, then you should opt for expanded clay or sawdust with vermiculite. If high thermal insulation properties and ease of installation are important, your choice is basalt wool.
Insulation with basalt wool: step by step
Let's take a closer look at how to do external insulation with your own hands using one of the most effective insulation materials- basalt wool.
Required materials:
- Basalt wool slabs 100 mm thick;
- Vapor barrier film;
- Waterproofing film;
- Foil tape;
- Wooden beam;
- Hardware.
Tools:
- Stapler;
- Roulette;
- Hacksaw or jigsaw;
- Hammer;
- Bench knife;
- Screwdriver.
- Step 1. First of all, you need to do a thorough cleaning of the attic and create flat surface for laying basalt wool.
- Step 2. If the attic is planned to be residential, then a wooden frame is laid for the future floor. The pitch between the lags is determined in accordance with the width of the insulation boards in order to ensure the tightest possible fit.
Subject to availability wooden beams ceiling insulation is placed in the space between them. If the height is insufficient, additional bars are attached on top.
If the attic will not be used, then this point can be skipped.
The height of the insulation depends on the climatic characteristics of the area and the roof structure. In most cases, it is optimal to use two layers of basalt wool 100 mm thick.
- Step 3. Vapor barrier film is laid. If the ceiling is reinforced concrete, then this point can be skipped, since it has low vapor permeability.
Fastening to floor beams or joists is carried out using a construction stapler and folding the edges. During new construction, the film is placed under the beams. The sheets are overlapped by 150 - 200 mm, fastened with moisture-resistant tape and must be placed on the walls by at least 200 mm to guarantee the prevention of moisture penetration. The best option the use of foil material is considered. In this case, the sheets are placed end-to-end with the foil down and taped with special tape.
Beams and joists are not covered with a vapor barrier film to avoid the accumulation of moisture in them and rapid rotting.
- Step 4. Sheets of basalt wool are laid on the vapor barrier film, avoiding cracks at the joints if possible. Gaps of 2-3 cm are left near the walls, which are not closed to ventilate the cotton wool.
- Step 5. The second layer is laid with maximum displacement of the seams. In cold climates, a third layer will not be amiss. It is laid across the previous ones and eliminates all potential cold bridges.
For an attic floor that will not be used, you can stop here (unless, of course, the roof is leaking), or you can play it safe by following the recommendations of the next paragraph.
- Step 6. Laying waterproofing film to protect the cotton wool from moisture from entering from above during operation.
- Step 7. The structure for moving around the attic is mounted.
For a residential attic, boards are laid and, if necessary, finishing coat, For non-residential attic it is enough to provide bridges for walking when technical inspection and roof maintenance.
It is better to carry out work in warm time year - in summer or early autumn.
For external insulation, it is better to take vapor-proof materials to protect the ceiling from moisture; for internal insulation - vapor permeable.
The more air the insulation contains, the more effective it is, so we must strive to provide maximum “fluffiness” to materials such as mineral wool, ecowool, and sawdust.
External insulation will always be cheaper and easier to do.
When using internal ceiling insulation and using some models of built-in ceiling lamps frequent burnout of light bulbs is possible due to lack of heat dissipation. In this case, it is better to hang an ordinary traditional chandelier.
For vapor barrier, you can only use a special film with the appropriate marking or glassine; you cannot use ordinary polyethylene.
Penofol is always placed with the foil down.
Can be done comprehensive insulation, combining different insulation materials.
When performing insulation with basalt wool, you must use a mask and protective clothing that completely covers the body.
Before starting work, you should carefully study the advantages and disadvantages of all available thermal insulation materials, analyze their operational capabilities, estimate the costs and complexity of installation. Making a carefully considered decision and installing thermal insulation, taking into account the above recommendations, will guarantee a safe and effectively insulated ceiling in a private home.
It would seem that there is nothing to write about insulation... 🙂 But we have come up with so many artificial insulation based on the “bad” insulator - Air, that you cannot pass by. Is it just us? And how many natural insulation materials Mother Nature gave us! Let's remember and look at everything at once, we don't need much... *PARDON*
Of course I'll start with natural ones. It’s cheap and therefore fashionable during a crisis :) If I missed someone, add in the comments and I’ll correct it...
Tyrsa, turf, peat briquettes, pine needles, straw, husks, reeds, cork (cork oak bark), flax and hemp mats, damask (dried sea grass), sheep's wool, ash, slag (as waste from home heating). Not a little. Nature is Generous. And on the basis of these insulation materials, our Ancestors created systems of Eco Houses and even villages in which entire generations lived.
But modern Man more civilized. His requirements for comfort have increased, and this required the creation of more effective and more durable insulation materials. Following the numerical growth of Humanity, the area of houses and the requirements for their Comfort have also grown. Today, thanks to modern insulation materials, we consume less energy per capita than our ancestors (I didn’t come up with this, I read the statistics 😉). And what artificial insulation(requiring high-tech equipment and additional energy) are on the market today?
Cellulose, basalt wool, glass wool, slag wool, foam glass, vermiculite, perlite, expanded clay, polystyrene (PSB and EPS), polyethylene foam, polypropylene foam, vacuum panels, aerated fiber concrete, aerated concrete, slag (industrial waste). I do not list building materials based on these insulation materials and with better thermal insulation properties ( ceramic blocks, foam concrete, cinder block, glued wooden beam etc.), because they are not just insulation materials.
As we can see, there is plenty to choose from. Why do we need such a choice? And the answer is simple... Each material has a set of properties. The art of the Builder lies in this: knowing the properties of materials, choose the insulation that has will make maximum use of it best sides in a specific situation!
ATTENTION!
I PUBLISH MY PERSONAL OPINION
The Internet is full of information and tables with technical characteristics building materials and insulation in particular. They are interesting to me Professional Builder. But I'm not going to reprint or copy them. After all, that’s not why you came to my Construction Blog, so as not to get answers again.
I make up Comparison tables for Ukraine according to different principles. I assign points based on my own experience and analysis of the properties of materials. I take into account not only technical parameters, but also durability, manufacturability, etc. The main condition... YOU CAN ' T GIVE THE SAME POINTS.
Next point. Don't forget that Home is a System! Insulation is only a small part of this system. That's why not only him, but also on him influence other elements of the system! Be sure to make the final choice of material with your Architect. After all, He is responsible for your Home.
And on the other hand. Yes, I do not take into account the effect that insulation has on other materials. In this case, I am interested in the Insulation itself. His personal selfish Comfort! 🙂 In what place in the House system can he demonstrate his positive qualities to the maximum. But your Design Engineer and Architect is responsible for ensuring that he feels good there. Don't forget this. Any material can be destroyed by improper use.
What? Are you scared? 🙂 Of course it’s scary. Making a choice is always scary. So let's watch the video and make a conscious choice...
The first table is Natural Insulation. As you can see, their variety allows you to insulate the entire house. From the foundation to the roof. And at the same time, their durability has long been proven. For example, there are houses made of adobe that are 150 years old and the straw in them is in excellent condition. And a turf roof lasts more than 50 years. Many modern materials They cannot boast of this, as well as the environmental friendliness of the material itself, as well as their production and, of course, disposal.
But we should not forget about other characteristics of materials. This is not just the original Price of the Material itself, A Construction Price with these materials. Their Manufacturability (natural) - which is often inferior to modern ones Artificial materials, which fit easier and faster...
To view this part of the topic, please, or go through and go to the Blog under your Login.Of course, everything can be covered in the signs and small video- Impossible! But this is not the last topic in the Blog 😉 Gradually on the pages of my Construction Blog I will reveal all the features of using materials. I have a lot of work ahead of me, and you need to be patient. 🙂
Sincerely, Alexander Terekhov.
Lovers of coniferous plantations living in middle lane Russia, they dream of evergreen decoration of their home plot. Despite the frost resistance of conifers, young seedlings need protection winter period. How we cover conifers for the winter and other methods of protection from ice and snow will be discussed in this article.
Why cover winter-hardy crops?
Almost all coniferous plantings, from trees to low-growing shrubs, are distinguished by their unpretentiousness and resistance to frost. Both thuja and spruce attract the attention of gardeners not only because of their beauty appearance, but also resistant to diseases and pests, and also exude a wonderful pine aroma. In addition, they are excellent antiseptics.
For the love of decorative appearance plants, it is planted along alleys, near administrative buildings, as well as in parks and gardens. But despite such positive characteristics, conifers need shelter for the winter. Namely, young seedlings that are not yet 3-4 years old are considered weak and need protection. Here are two aspects that adversely affect evergreen crops:
- strong frosty wind;
- spring sun rays reflected from the snow.
Why exactly the wind and sunlight? The fact is that the winter wind causes severe dryness of the branches, and from a lack of moisture they freeze, break off and die. If you have observed a beautiful spruce with a withered shoot and yellowed needles, then know that this was due to a cold and strong wind. While tree needles can withstand severe frost, they do not like the wind.
Everyone knows that the thaw at the end of February and March is characterized by the bright sun, the rays of which are reflected on the white snow. At this time, sap flow has not yet begun, and the bushes are still weak and vulnerable. Then the pine needles and green paws of the thuja under bright light can get sunburn. Therefore, there is a need to cover the crop for the winter, not to mention the branches breaking under the weight of the adhering snow.
Protection for medium-height shrubs
To cover for the winter coniferous bushes those who have not yet reached 3 years of age, first bend the branches to the trunk of the tree. To do this, take a string, preferably green or the color of the trunk, and, without pressing too much, lightly wrap it with a cord so that the legs of the trunks do not stick out. After that we take non-woven material or spunbond, and determine the size of the future bag. Then we secure the seam with a stapler.
Today, manufacturers offer ready-made agrotex bags of various sizes. Spruce and pine need autumn shelter only in the first year of life.
How to cover bushes and young trees of medium height so as not to damage the crown and preserve the integrity of the crop as much as possible? For this purpose, a wooden frame is constructed from bars of medium thickness.
Advice! “You can make a frame from elastic plastic mesh, which is very convenient due to its flexibility.”
It is better not to install an iron or wire frame, since the metal conducts cold and can cause frostbite to the branches.
After preparing the walls of the frame, we wrap it with covering material. It is better not to use polyethylene for these purposes, as it collects moisture. The moisture accumulated under the film freezes during the winter cold and does not contribute to thermal insulation or leads to rotting and mold. In addition, polyethylene may not withstand low temperatures and burst, allowing snow and cold wind to penetrate. To protect coniferous plantations for the winter, it is better to use:
- burlap;
- spunbond;
- kraft paper;
- agrofibre;
- lutrasin;
- agrospan.
Any of the listed materials, except kraft paper, can be stapled to wooden frame. You can wrap the insulation around the mesh, connecting the ends into a single seam.
Any agrofibre should be of medium thickness for air to enter (sometimes a small gap is left or the top is not secured), but not torn from strong gusts of wind. After winter, shelters need to be removed at the beginning of April or at the end of March, when it gets warmer and sap flow begins. Moderate melting of snow and air temperature close to 0 °C will tell you when to open the insulation.
If your pets have reached 4 years of age, and you did not shelter them, but only tied them with twine, then we perform the following shenanigans. At the end of February south side garden we install an awning from any available covering material. Our goal is to create a shade curtain so that the conifers do not get sunburned from the blinding sun.
Protection for low growing bushes
If your juniper or cedar is too young, or you are a fan of low-growing crops, then the amount of insulation work is significantly reduced. It is enough to stock up on spruce branches in the forest and cover them with seedlings in the form of cone-shaped houses. Thrifty owners prefer to install plastic containers on top of spruce branches for reliable fixation and maintaining temperature conditions.
Industrial business satisfies any demand and therefore the Moscow region is provided with covering material for planting in full. It is sold in the form of cone-shaped bags with a tightening rope at the bottom. To prevent the ends of the conifer paws from turning yellow, it is enough to use special bags.
Agronomist advice! “For young conifers with a weak root system, it is necessary to sprinkle the area at the roots with sawdust or mulch before covering for the winter.”
Additional care
Despite the winter hardiness and unpretentiousness of the crop, mineral supplement won't hurt. Especially for freshly planted crops in the fall, so that they can take root before spring. The plant must become stronger and be resistant to disease. What to feed your pets ahead of the cold weather?
Let us describe several steps leading to successful acclimatization and overwintering:
- We water in the fall 50–60 cm deep, not only near the root, but also within the radius of the root system. In case of heavy autumn rains, the procedure is canceled;
- trunk mulching with organic matter (needles, pine bark, sawdust, spruce branches, hay, etc.) is poured in 1–2 layers, no thicker, so that rodents do not build a nest;
- feeding with vermicompost and compost will support the vitality of conifers, as well as adding magnesium with dolomite flour;
- nitrogen in large quantities and manure can harm plantings;
- In spring, at temperatures above +10 °C, it is recommended to treat with biostimulants: Epin, HB 101, Zircon. Sometimes it is enough to spray the crown warm water and hide from the sun.
It is much more advisable to take care of conifers than to restore them as a result of neglect.
