Every dacha owner at least once in his life had to dig a hole on his territory for the purpose of building some kind of object. This could be an arch, a support, a pillar, any element of the exterior or a full-fledged building, for example. Often, the construction of such things requires wells or holes, which are not always easy to make due to their inconvenient location. Also, work can be complicated due to difficult soils. In such situations, the usual shovel is not the most convenient tool to dig a deep hole, and therefore private owners often have to hire a specialist with a drill.

The garden hand auger has been and remains one of the most useful devices for dacha owners. The tool is distinguished by its compact dimensions and low weight, which makes it very convenient to use and transport. Crafted from hard metals with your own hands, the post auger is capable of going through plant roots and small rocks in the ground. The drilling process is carried out due to rotational movements at the desired point.

Design

The main purpose of the drill is to dig wells to a depth approximately equal to the laying depth columnar foundation. Cutting through the soil is carried out due to the cutting part, which in turn can be performed:

• Half discs;
• In the form of screws;
• Solid or removable;
• Multi-tiered;
• Two-blade;
• Helical.

Some hand drills They have small blades at the bottom with a gradual increase in radius towards the top. Nevertheless, often factory products turn out to be unusable in practice, due to a discrepancy between the diameter and the diameter of the new hole or due to the impossibility of penetration to the required depth. And although the cost of a factory model is small, it makes sense to learn how to make a drill with your own hands. Self-assembly technology is cheap and simple; the main thing is to accurately determine the configuration of the future tool! To do this, it is necessary to distinguish between the designs and functionality of the models:

• Shaper plow . Covers the lower extended area of ​​the socket. In most cases, the tool is used to strengthen columnar foundations during the construction of large structures.

The handle with the screw part is fixed due to bolted connection. The total length of the finished drill is usually a little more than one meter. This allows you to easily make holes up to 700 millimeters deep. If it is necessary to make a hole of greater depth, the structure is supplemented with a special connecting tube half a meter long. The complementary element resembles a part with a nut and bolt at the end sections of the pipe.

• Ground receiver . The soil is accumulated in a special storage facility. The drill is in most cases used when drilling holes from 35 centimeters in diameter.
• Baking powder . The tool is made in the form of a screw or two inclined blades. In the first case, a knife in the form of a spiral is placed on a bar.

DIY drill

If you want to make a manual pole drill yourself, as a rule, there are no difficulties during the assembly process. However, to work you will need following materials, parts and tools.

Materials

To ensure the product has the proper level of strength, as well as to be able to perform work in hard ground conditions, it is worth using iron pipes with wall thickness not less than 3.5 millimeters. You can make cutting discs either with your own hands or take ready-made ones from circular saw. In the first case, it is recommended to take metal sheets thickness from 3 millimeters.

Details

Parts you will need:

• 3 pipes: one 400 mm long, two 500 mm long. The outer diameter of the pipes should be 40 mm, the wall thickness should be at least 3.5 mm;
• M20 nut and bolt;
• Drill with a diameter of 20 millimeters with a tip;
• A pair of disks of 150 and 100 mm in diameter.

Tools

• For cutting elements, a sharpening wheel;
• Grinder and hammer;
• Electric drill paired with metal drills;
• Welding machine;
• Locksmith kit.

If you do not have a drill tip, you can replace it with a regular drill bit with a tapered shank. In this case, the diameter of the element must fit the screw part. To avoid injury when making your own, it is recommended to use soft bicycle handles.

Work order

• First of all, the center and radius of the circle, which will act as the future blade, is marked on a piece of metal. The intended workpiece is cut out using a grinder. After this, cutting and cutting lines corresponding to the size of the collar circumference are drawn along the diameter line. The finished disk is divided into two parts. The holes for the collars are made with a grinder;
• Using a grinder, four 3-4 cm longitudinal cuts are made at the end of the pipe blank intended for making the wrench. Using a hammer, the cuts are collected in the center, thus forming the tip of the pipe. To avoid filling the inside with soil the tip is processed by welding;
• The halves of the disk with the knob are welded so that the angle to the plane of rotation is about 20 degrees, and the distance between them remains at least 5 centimeters;
• The extension pipe is welded like the letter “T”, strictly perpendicular, it is strengthened by a metal “kerchief”. The workpiece is placed inside the collar pipe, after which it is made through hole, which will allow you to fix the elements with wings and a pin;

It is worth making several holes in the extension of the hand drill at once - thanks to them, in the future it will be possible to change the length of the driver without any problems.

• Finally, all that remains is to sharpen the blades. In this case, the cutting edge of the cutters is processed in such a way that when rotating, the tip “looks” down!

How to apply a protective layer?

The hand drill for pillars is ready, but it will not last long if it is not treated with a special protective compound that will protect the tool from harmful corrosion processes! For this purpose, all surfaces are thoroughly cleaned with sandpaper, and then treated with phosphating solution and primer. At the end the drill can be painted, but this is optional.

In progress earthworks, namely, upon completion, the drill should be disassembled and the bolted connections should be cleaned of dust and dirt, processing them waterproof lubricant. Such prevention will ensure long-term operation of the tool, eliminating sudden jamming of bolted joints.

How to increase tool productivity?

During construction work, namely when making wells, builders are often faced with a large amount of vegetation inside the soil. You can make working with a drill easier by sharply sharpened knife edges. In addition, you can also round the cutting area and cut teeth on the sloping part of each blade, which will significantly improve the ease of use of the tool.

Hand Drill Upgrade

The first improvement can be called performing a drill paired with replaceable cutters. This solution will allow you to dig holes of any diameter. In addition to spare parts, it is also important to think carefully about the method of fixing the cutters to the driver! The most simple option a connection is considered to be made by a pair of welded metal plates.

Important point! Welding should be done at an angle of 20 degrees relative to the plane of rotation.

A pair of holes are drilled into the mounting plates and blades for bolts. The cutters are secured using nuts, washers and M6 bolts. To prevent the bolts from causing additional interference during the drilling process, they are placed with the thread facing up.

Second improvement useful for builders working in areas with deep compacted soils. Thanks to a small flat cutter welded between the cutter and the lance, the hand drill will additionally perform centering and loosening of the soil while drilling. To complete this element with your own hands, you will need a pair of plates measuring 3 by 8 centimeters. In addition to the above, her presence can speed up the work process.

Third improvement method – increasing the functionality of the lower end of the gate. This happens due to a lance: a plate measuring 2 by 10 cm is cut out of a narrow sheet of metal and sharpened with a conical tip using a grinder. A machined plate is inserted into the end of the knob, which is then welded and flattened.

However, there is another way to create a peak. From sheet metal a longer plate is cut out - about 17 centimeters in length. The workpiece is heated and, like a corkscrew, is rolled into a screw. Further work is carried out similarly to the first option.

A drill of the required diameter that can handle metal and wood will work as an auger. Such a drill will easily pass through layers of soil, easily reaching the required depth.

Fourth – you can also make friezes with your own hands from grinder discs, just not ordinary ones, but those designed for working with stone! The central hole is expanded to fit the dimensions of the knob, the circles are cut along the radius line. The ends of the disk are moved in different directions, resulting in something like a screw. At the end, all that remains is to weld the part to the drill.

A circular saw blade is also suitable for creating a cutter. Its sharp teeth will easily pass through any vegetation and roots in the thickness of the soil. Which option suits you best?.. It’s not difficult to create a hand drill for poles with your own hands, and it will take a little money. All work will take approximately several hours.

Reading time ≈ 10 minutes

Residents of the private sector are very familiar with situations when something needs to be built or installed, but the base of such a structure will be in the ground. In this regard, many are wondering how to make a drill for drilling holes for pillars (piles) with their own hands, using materials that may be available in household. In addition, without excessive modesty, it can be argued that in some cases, self-made instruments exceed the quality of factory products. The thing is that a standard is produced at the factory, and at home you can adapt such a device to specific needs, taking into account the condition of the soil.

Homemade hand garden auger

Dependence of design on purpose

For household needs, you can make a hand drill with your own hands for various purposes, although in any case, such a tool is intended for drilling holes. But at the same time they are distinguished by appearance And operational characteristics, This:

• ordinary garden auger;
• auger garden auger;
• drill for TISE piles (Technology of Individual Construction and Ecology).

To assemble such a tool you will definitely need welding machine, operating on alternating or direct current.

Common garden auger

Earth garden auger

To make an ordinary garden auger, which is most often used for not very deep holes, you need a powerful rod, made of solid (scrap) or hollow pipe profile. In addition, you will need semicircular cutting discs welded at a certain angle of attack (it is best if it is alloy steel). Using this tool, holes are made for planting plants (usually seedlings of shrubs or trees), as well as holes for installing fence posts or other light architectural structures.

Homemade auger hand drill

The word "auger" with German language(“Schnecke”) translates as “snail” and this perfectly characterizes the configuration cutting device. The blades are arranged like a right-hand thread with a large pitch, which allows you to pull the drill out of the ground much less frequently, since the soil rises to the full height of the blades without interfering with drilling. The functionality of such a tool is practically no different from the device described above, but labor productivity in this case almost doubles. If, for example, you build a fence around the perimeter of the site, you will have to install a lot of supports, so speed will only bring benefits. Certainly. It is better to use an automated drive for the auger.

Homemade drill for TISE piles

This tool is used to make wells with expansion at the bottom

The drill for TISE piles fully complies with the technology individual construction and ecology of work production, and in living conditions, as a rule, is used for pouring pillars with an expanded base underneath. Its uniqueness lies in the fact that near the cutting blades there is a folding blade (knife), with the help of which an expansion is formed. If we talk about labor productivity when pouring such foundations, then such tools are simply irreplaceable.

Making an ordinary garden auger at home

Below we will look at how you can make such a design at home, provided that you have a workshop (for many car enthusiasts this is a garage).

Components

The constituent elements from which the entire assembly is made

List of elements:

• The cutting parts are two semicircles made of alloy steel, with sharpened edges. Depending on the purpose of the tool, its diameter is also determined. In some cases, semicircular blades are fixed bolted connection m so that they can be replaced with a different diameter.
• The rod is a round or square pipe profile, although sometimes such a part is made from scrap, but this significantly increases the mass and complicates the work process. The length of the rod depends on the need, but most often it is made for pits 50-80 cm long and up to 1.5 m (if this parameter is reduced, you have to constantly work in a bent position). But if one and a half meters is not enough (the depth of the hole is 80-100 cm or more), then it is better to make a prefabricated rod with extendable rods (they can be joined using a nipple).
• The crossbar for the handle is welded to the top of the rod in the shape of the letter T, where the optimal length of the crossbar is 25-30 cm in each direction. If you make these levers shorter, then scrolling will be much harder.
• The tip is made sharp; it serves as a drill, which centers the blades in relation to the surface of the earth. That is, they will not move to the side, since they are a single unit with the drill.

What materials will you need?

Pipe profile square section

To make a rod, as mentioned above, a square or square pipe profile is suitable round section. If the wall of such a profile has a thickness of 2-2.5 mm, then a section of 20×20 mm or ø20 mm is suitable, but if the walls are thinner, then the section should be increased to 30×30 or 35×35 mm, ø30-35 mm. If during work there may be a need to screw on an additional rod, then only a round pipe profile is suitable for the rod.

Flat tip in the form of a lance with central and side sharpening

A sharp tip must be welded to the end of the rod, which can be made from a piece of a thick drill with a pobedit tip - they are used for drilling concrete with a hammer drill. But you can also make such a point from thick reinforcement or a piece of steel, sharpening it in the form of a flat peak, as in the top photo.

The cutting part is made from a hand-held circular saw blade

The most crucial moment is the manufacture of cutting blades and they can be made from:

1. sheet steel 3-4 mm thick;
2. saw blade from a grinder (diamond) or a hand-held circular saw.

In this case, it is most convenient to use discs from a diamond-coated grinder, designed for cutting concrete, or from a hand-held circular saw. When the diamond coating is applied, a thin strip of no more than 1 mm remains around the circumference and it is easy to grind it off, making the edges sharp, and the toothed disk from the circular saw can only be cut in half.

For reference. Disc inner diameter or mounting hole standard is 22.5 mm.

And a few more words about the handle - it should be from round pipe and under no circumstances should you put any plastic on it, much less wrap it with electrical tape.

Method of fastening knives

Removable bolt-on blades

If drilling wells is planned different diameters, then the blades on the instrument can be made of a removable type. For this purpose, two shelves are welded to the rod and knives are bolted to them, as shown in the top photo.

The optimal angle of attack is 30-40⁰

If you are not going to change the diameter of the blades, then most best option, this is ø120 mm and for this purpose a saw or trimming disc ø125 mm (5 mm width of diamond coating and it will no longer be) is best suited, which needs to be cut into two semicircles. Seatø22.5 mm will have to be adjusted to the rod, cutting off the excess using electric welding. For soft soils, the angle of attack is usually 30⁰, and sometimes even 40⁰, but for hard soils it is better to lower it to 22-25⁰.

Components of a garden auger: 1) rod with a point, 2) cutting discs, 3) handle for rotation

Here is a drawing of a homemade garden auger with ø120 mm blades (the diameter of a used cutting disc for diamond-coated concrete). Below is a video on how to make such a tool:

Video: Do-it-yourself garden drill in a home workshop

Auger drill

Schematic diagram of the manufacture of an auger drill

Now let's figure out how to make an auger drill for drilling holes for pillars with our own hands. Such a tool does not have to be removed from the hole every 5-10 cm of passage, since the soil dump moves during rotation to the upper blades of the auger. This significantly speeds up the process, but working with it requires a lot of physical strength, so in most cases such installations are used in conjunction with an automated drive.

All disks are clamped in a vice and the same sector is cut out for rotation

Now the most crucial moment: you need to cut out a trapezoidal sector from all the disks folded together, although these inclined ones will intersect in the center, forming an acute angle. The bottom line is that when turning each upper disk, the left edge of the cut sector should coincide with the right edge of the lower one. It is, of course, better to first do such things on paper and if everything matches, transfer the markings for cutting to the metal. The number of screw turns will correspond to the number of disks.

Attention! Do not lose sight of the fact that for docking the lower disk uses the right side of the sector, and the upper one the left. If you do the opposite, you will have to drill counterclockwise.

Now the welding work begins:

1. place a disk on a plane, and place another one on top of it, but in such a way as to overlap the cut sector, that is, the left edge of the upper one should adjoin the right edge of the lower one;
2. this joint is welded by electric welding and the next disc is placed on top, acting on the same principle;
3. This is how all the disks are joined and welded, making a compressed spring out of them.

The compressed spring is stretched using a winch

Upon completion welding work, this homemade spring needs to be stretched to form an auger. To do this, the assembly is put on a rod and the lower disk is welded at the desired angle, for example, 30⁰, and something like a ring can be welded to the upper disk so that it hooks onto the winch hook. The rod is fixed on the floor (figure out how to do this yourself - circumstances vary) and the spring is stretched with a winch, after which the upper disk is welded. The rod is released and the entire structure is scalded in a spiral.

Video: Making an auger drill

Drill for TISE piles

Operating principle of the TISE pile drill

The drawing above shows the principle of operation of the TISE pile drill: first it makes a shaft of the required diameter, and at the bottom the well is expanded using a folding knife. But perhaps I will disappoint you, since in order to make such a design at home, you need, at a minimum, a workshop with tools and professional mechanic skills. To consider such a build, you will have to post a separate article, even a small one, but here we will limit ourselves to showing a video on self-assembly Borax TISE:

Video: Homemade drill for TISE piles at home

Conclusion

From this material you learned how to make a drill for drilling holes for poles with your own hands. You won’t use a drill for TISE piles to install a fence or build a foundation, so for a house an ordinary drill or, if you have something to make a drive from, an auger drill is quite enough.

Hand drill – irreplaceable thing on personal plot. Drill holes to install fence posts or bored piles under the foundation, make holes in the garden soil for planting plants. This hand tools there will always be a use for it. Users of our portal know how to make this tool yourself, and whether it is possible to somehow improve factory-made devices.

Before you buy or make your own hand drill, you need to ask yourself the following questions:

1. For what purposes and work do you need it;
2. What type of soil will be drilled at the site.

Sand, rocky ground, abandoned garden soil, hard-plastic clays, loam, soil with a lot of roots. Drilling a hole for installation fence posts and no columns large diameter, drilling out “heavy” soil under powerful bored piles for the foundation of a house. All these factors have a significant impact on the design of a hand drill.

Sukhanov Mikhail User FORUMHOUSE

In my opinion, the best hand drill is the one that is “tailored” for work in a specific area, taking into account the characteristics of the soil and its layers. Those. earthen the drill must be made under certain tasks: installation of pillars, piles, etc.

A user of our portal offers the following mechanical design borax. How it was made can be clearly seen in this photo.

Two knives are used to preliminary loosen the soil, which simplifies the cutting of the main blades, set at an angle, into the ground. Moreover, the main blades can be made replaceable by attaching them to bolts and nuts. Thanks to this, it is possible to drill holes of different diameters using one rod.

Although outwardly purchased and homemade drill are similar in many ways, it is homemade hand drills that show best results. They are stronger and more convenient to work with, because... they are made to suit you.

Sukhanov Mikhail

My neighbor and I once conducted the following experiment: we decided to compare the performance of my homemade drill (blade diameter 25 cm) and its purchased one (blade diameter 14 cm).

The soil on the forum member’s site is like this:

• 0.7-0.8 m – “fertility”;
• 0.2-0.4 m – coarse limestone stone;
• then a layer of marl (yellow, with fine limestone chips).

During the competition, the drillers almost simultaneously went 0.8 m deep. Then the purchased tool stumbled on the marl, while, working as a homemade garden drill, Michael continued to drill as if nothing had happened. The neighbor had to loosen the marl with a crowbar and only then drill further.

The result of the experiment: in order to drill a hole under a pillar 1 meter deep, Mikhail it took a little over 5 minutes, and he wasn’t tired at all. The neighbor fell hopelessly behind in the last 0.2 m.

T.N. a universal drill, no matter how suitable for working on different soils, may turn out to be ineffective.

That is why they are so popular among users of our portal homemade designs hand drills. To make one, it is enough waste materials and basic skills in welding.

The tool is made like this: take a round or square pipe, its length is selected depending on the expected depth of the hole. In case of mechanical drilling deep wells the pipe can be extended by adding an additional rod. The diameter of the blades is selected depending on the expected diameter of the pit and the planned work.

Large-diameter saw blades from circular saws have worked well as blades. Such a disk is sawn into two parts with a grinder. The halves are welded to the pipe, and the blades must be spread to a certain angle (approximately 25-30°). This way they penetrate better into the ground. A lance or a large-diameter “killed” drill is welded to the end of the pipe. The tip is needed to center the drill at the beginning of drilling. Due to the saw teeth on the blades, such a tool cuts roots well when rotating.

The main thing when working with a hand drill is to stop in time and lift it out of the pit in order to dump the rock.

Boston User FORUMHOUSE, Moscow.

I've made it to the start summer season two earth drillers. The first is with a diameter of 210 mm, the second is 160 mm. The blades were fitted with disks from a circular saw. The rest was made from what was literally lying under our feet. I also made a collapsible extension rod. I spent 200 rubles on everything, as they say, cheap and cheerful.

If you don’t have a welding machine at hand, then such a tool can only be assembled using bolts and nuts. Also, as a drill for light soil and for drilling small-diameter holes, you can use a used ice auger (since buying a new one is an economically unjustified idea). For ease of operation of the ice device, you need to cut off the handle-turn and attach a standard T-shaped collar.

In addition to the tools described above, an interesting approach to making a homemade drill for drilling wells in the ground from a forum member with the nickname VyacheslavK.

A conventional earth drill was used to drill to a depth of 2.5 m. The forum member cut the blades with a grinder from a piece of sheet metal 3 mm thick, onto which a paper template was previously glued.

Then a hole with a diameter of 20 mm was drilled in the resulting workpiece.

A cut was made along the radius of the circle.

The pin has been sharpened.

The result is a drilling device like this.

During the work, the following shortcomings were identified and eliminated:

1. The blades are brought together during drilling, which significantly reduces drilling efficiency. To prevent the blades from collapsing, bracing partitions were welded between them and to the pipe.

1. When drilling holes for installing a fence, the tool, if it bumped into stones or roots, was pulled to the side. To eliminate this drawback, an arcuate side of 30x10 cm was welded one blade at a time, starting from the bend of the circle.

1. Low efficiency when passing through oily clay. For working with clay, the so-called was made. frame drill designed by a user of our site with a nickname KND.

This device is best suited for working with lamellar clays. It has a minimum coefficient of friction against the rock. It is easy to remove from the hole (there is no “piston effect” like an auger drill). After lifting the drill, the clay is simply shaken out of the frame.

Although such a tool is most often used when drilling homemade water wells, its design turned out to be so successful that it is worth focusing on it.

VyacheslavK did this:

From a strip of metal 5 cm wide, he cut two identical strips and made angular bevels, moving 2 cm from the end of the strip. For the strips, you can use old car springs.

Cut and sharpened knives.

I welded the knives to the drill, pointing the sharpened sides in opposite directions.

I spread the knives apart using a corner so that the distance between the ends was 25 cm.

Using a gas key VyacheslavK turned the knives at an angle.

I assembled and welded the entire structure.

It is worth noting that the drill quickly broke off. That's why VyacheslavK sharpened the fragment, as shown in the next photo.

When making a frame drill, please note that it is not suitable for working in loose, loose soil, because it doesn't stay in the frame.

Also interesting are the designs intended for making a widening - “heel” - during the construction of the TISE foundation.

Subarist User FORUMHOUSE

I modified the purchased drill and installed a second folding shovel on it. To make it easier to work, I made a T-handle 1 m long. Thus, I increased the force on the lever. The length of the rod is 3 meters. Now you can drill holes 2 meters deep while standing upright, rather than on all fours. I cut off the teeth from the land receiver because they are of little use.

The “improvement” did not end there. To increase the efficiency of the earth auger when drilling out a widening, Subarist I bent the blades - the straight blades did not cut the ground well. The forum member’s future plans include installing blades made of alloy steel, because... ordinary ones quickly become dull on stones.

The construction of a full-fledged columnar foundation is a complex job that requires experience and professional tools. To drill wells, you can use special equipment or make a drill yourself. This is especially true for large volumes of construction.

Drill design

drill application technology

The drill is designed to form wells in the ground to the depth of installation of a columnar foundation. For this purpose, the design provides a cutting part, which can have different shape. It is important that during rotation the soil is excavated and accumulated in the receiver.

At the first stage, you need to choose the right configuration. There are several differences in the design that will subsequently determine the functionality of the drill:

• Baking powder. It can be in the form of two inclined planes or in the form of an auger - a spiral-shaped knife located on a rod.
• Availability of a soil receiver. It is designed to collect soil and remove it after filling. Convenient for forming large diameter wells from 35 cm.
• Plow for forming a lower expanded zone in the soil. This is necessary to strengthen the future columnar foundation. The element is required when constructing buildings with a large mass.

The manufacture of a drill should begin with drawing up a drawing. It directly depends on the design requirements.

Types of drills

One of the determining criteria is the shape of the cutting planes and their location on the rod. If the amount of work is relatively small and the diameter of the well does not exceed 20 cm, you can make an auger model.

This design is relatively easy to manufacture, and there is a wide choice of cutting part material. However, the features of its use should be taken into account:

• To remove soil, it is necessary to remove the drill from the well each time.
• It is not possible to form an extended area at the bottom of the foundation.
• When filling the auger planes with soil, great efforts will be required to remove the soil.

An alternative to this model is a device with replaceable blades. They are installed on special mounting platforms located at an angle relative to each other.

Replaceable knives

This shape allows you to make wells of different diameters using the same drill. It should also be noted the minimal labor intensity of manufacturing and the possibility of installing new cutting parts to replace failed ones. The disadvantages of a product with replaceable blades are the same as those of the auger model - low productivity and the ability to drill wells with a standardized diameter along the entire length.

A drill whose cutting part is made in the shape of a cylinder does not have these disadvantages. His bottom part has two planes located at an angle. The soil is collected in a receptacle that has sufficient capacity.

A special feature is the mounted plow, which is designed to expand the diameter of the well at its base. It can be installed on all of the models described above, but it is for this particular plow that it is most effective.

Self-production

After selection optimal scheme Borax, you can proceed directly to its manufacture. For this you will need consumables, welding machine and cutting tool- or a hacksaw for metal.

The simplest manufacturing option is a scheme with interchangeable blades. As their starting material, you can take metal discs of various diameters - from 160 to 350 mm. The size of the internal mounting hole must be different. This is the main advantage of replaceable blades.

For manufacturing you will need the following materials:

• Barbell. It is made from a round or square pipe. They weld to it mounting plates for installing two halves of disks, as well as a platform for attaching the handle.
• Handle. Made from the same pipe as the bar. For connection, it is best to weld the flange onto the 4 mounting bolts.
• Disks. Their thickness must be at least 2.3 mm. This is necessary for structural rigidity. They are cut into two halves, in each of which mounting holes are made for attaching to the plates on the rod.

The angle between the planes of the disk halves should be 30°. This will ensure optimal cutting of the soil layer without much effort. If a structure with a plow is manufactured, it is recommended to order its cutting part separately or purchase a ready-made model.

The pillar is the main architectural element of many types of fences and buildings. To install it you need special tool, hand drill for poles. With its help, holes are selected in the ground into which the pillars are installed.

If necessary, motorized drills are used to make a large number of holes, but in private construction, in particular during self-construction fences are used manual options such a tool. There are a lot of industrially produced models, but nothing prevents you from making your own drill that will satisfy local needs. And it will cost less than store-bought.

At least minimal skills in working with a welding machine and its availability are required.

An alternative option is to manufacture custom-made tools according to the selected project. In this case, you will need to find performers and a suitable drawing.

Construction of an earth drill

Fundamentally, each drill consists of three main elements:

1. Pike, which plunges into the ground first and centers the entire tool during the first stages of drilling. Some versions of auger drills and designs with an earth receiver are not equipped with a lance.
2. cutting part, made in the form of a screw, half disks or having another configuration.
3. Solid or segmented rod, to the bottom of which the working elements are attached, and to the top - a handle or pin for connecting to a motorized unit.

The different types and combinations of these elements make the difference between drill types. The garden auger is equipped with a peak and two blades, mounted on the main rod at a certain angle (usually 35-40 degrees to the perpendicular to the axis). This is not the most productive tool used for making planting holes or holes for small supports.

Auger drill– a specific option for quickly installing wells for fencing supports. It is equipped with a spiral blade with several turns for removing soil, which is cut by a blade at the bottom of the auger.

The cutting edge of the blade should always remain the lowest point of the auger. Otherwise, the device will not be able to drill into the ground. Therefore, models with two to four semicircular blades are suitable only for making shallow holes for planting plants. The soil is directly cut by only one corner of one blade.

Drill with earth receiver It is a piece of large-diameter pipe, in the lower inner part of which blades are fixed, most often equipped with teeth. As the drill rotates, they fill the volume of the pipe above them, after which the tool is removed from the ground.

Drill for TISE piles is a tool of the previous type, equipped with a folding blade for creating channel extensions for pouring pile foundations. Sometimes, instead of a cutting part, the earth receiver is equipped with a blind bottom for collecting soil selected by a folding blade.

Making a drill

The main tools for self-made The drill is used by an angle grinder and a welding machine. The process begins with the selection and preparation of the main axis of the tool. A round (26.8-48 mm in diameter) or profile (20×20-35×35) pipe is suitable for this role.

From the profile square pipe You won’t be able to make a garden auger with your own hands. For it, exclusively pipes with a round cross-section are used.

The required length is calculated by adding 50-60 cm to the depth of the future well. If the final value exceeds one and a half meters, you will need to make the bar collapsible. The connection mechanism can be any (threaded, cotter pin or other), the main thing is that it can withstand the loads during rotation with resistance.

The pike is usually made separately. From a piece of pipe whose inner diameter is equal to the outer one, you can simply make a sharp tip or flatten the pipe, and then roll it into a spiral of one or two turns or sharpen it like the tip of a wood drill. Other options include soldering a narrow spiral screw. Good results are shown by using a 40-diameter wood drill. In this case, the diameter of the end drill must exceed O.D. rods.

After the lance is welded to the axial rod (or its lower segment), you can begin constructing the main cutting part. To do this, an old saw blade from a circular saw, the diameter of which corresponds to the parameters of the required hole, is cut into two equal halves. The resulting blades are welded to the main rod above the peak. The preferred angle to the perpendicular to the axis is 30-40 degrees, to the vertical - strictly 90. The cutting edges are sharpened.

Another, more productive option is to make a screw. For it, circles are cut from sheet iron, the diameter of which corresponds to the parameters of the required recess. The number of disks is equal to the number of turns of the future spiral (at least three). The blanks are stacked, after which a hole is drilled in their center, commensurate with the outer diameter of the pipe.

Afterwards, a small segment is cut out of the disks. The resulting parts must be welded to form a spring. Then it is stretched on a winch, the seams between the turns are welded with reverse side and attached to the axle.

The final touch– handle. It is made from a piece of the same pipe that was used for the axial rod or a diameter more suitable for the hand. The mounting method depends on personal preference. The handle can be welded to the axle, reinforced with additional crossbars, or made removable.

Materials used

Depending on the type of drill being manufactured, they are used various materials, but the basis is always round or profile pipes and sheet metal (waste saw blades).

Pieces of pipe, parts of broken wood drills, and metal plates are used as pikes. Or models are made without peaks. Studs and nuts are used to connect the rod segments.

In general, the range of necessary and acceptable materials depends on the chosen design. It must be thought through before starting work.

Cutting elements and their fastening

The cutting part of earth drills can be removable or non-removable. However, detachable mounting is only permissible on versions with half blades or saw blades or sheet metal. To do this, shelves are attached to the main rod, located at the same angle as the blades. 2-3 holes are drilled in the shelves, to which the cutting parts are attached using bolts and nuts.

Replacement bits can also be made for drills with an earth receiver. To do this, in the reinforcing arc that attaches the bucket to the rod, it is necessary to make a flattening, drill a hole and cut a thread in it.

The screw cutting parts are rigidly attached to the axis. To drill holes of different diameters, it makes sense to make several attachments for one handle.

Some modifications

1. Straight crushing blades between lance and cutting edge.
2. Multi-tier arrangement of blades with gradually increasing diameter.
3. Power ribs between the corners of the blades and/or the axial rod.
4. Receiver box to remove more soil in one go.
5. Additional blade with 2-3 teeth for easier drilling in dense soils.
6. Removable blades for quick replacement during work.
7. And many others, the number of which is limited only by personal ingenuity.

Video

Drill for TISE piles

Fundamental difference drill for constructing pile foundations consists of having a folding blade and a container - a land receiver. It is often manufactured as a separate tool along with an auger drill for the well itself.

The blade folding mechanism is a rod that moves a small piece of larger diameter pipe that is placed on the main rod. This movement activates a system of levers that lowers the blade.

Auger drill

To make multiple holes, it is better to use an auger drill. For one-time projects, a fishing ice pick is quite suitable. But for the mass installation of holes, it is better to purchase or make an appropriate drill from pipes and other materials.

In a “working” auger drill, only one edge of the blades protrudes. The second can be equipped with a comb with several teeth located slightly below the cutting plane.

If you have the time and money, using a motorized block and a special bed will help significantly speed up drilling holes for fence posts.

Drawings

The abundance of designs allows you to create a highly specialized tool for personal needs. Let's look at some drawings of such options.

Shovel drill

When planting plants, the drilling depth is not critical. Therefore, you can donate an old shovel to make hole preparation easier. You should retreat 30 mm from the lower center point. Draw lines from it to the edges at an angle of 10-20 degrees. Then step back 30 mm from each edge and draw vertical lines. The bayonet segments located between the verticals and lines diverging from the center are cut out.

Then cut the marked 30mm from the bottom center point. Now all that remains is to bend the lower and side parts of the bayonet in opposite directions along the marked lines. Earth drill ready with your own hands.