ElenaRudenkaya (Builderclub expert)

Good afternoon.

Let's go in order.

1. The plant layer must be removed; usually it is 30-50 cm. This is just enough to construct the entire “pie” of the blind area.

It will be useful for you to read our article about constructing a blind area in a private house.

In order for the blind area to be strong and durable, the soil must be compacted correctly. This can be done using a special tamper. The soil needs to be compacted around the house to a distance that corresponds to 1.5 times the length of the blind area itself.

Can install a border, as it looks more advantageous and also serves as a limiter when constructing a blind area. You will have to compact crushed stone and sand many times, which cannot be done well without a strong curb.

For a blind area made of paving slabs, the layers will be as follows:

• Compacted soil.
• Crushed stone compacted every 10 cm (the layer is selected depending on the required level). The main material of such a layer can be crushed stone, gravel or ordinary coarse yellow construction sand. The thickness of the drainage layer depends on the finishing layer of the blind area. If paving slabs are used, the thickness of one element is subtracted from the depth of the removed soil layer. Everything else is filled in construction sand. As a rule, the thickness of this layer is about 25-35 cm.
• Concrete layer approximately 5 cm M100-150.
• Reinforcement mesh from reinforcement with a diameter of 4-6 mm. Concrete itself is not elastic, so with frequent freezing and thawing it will crack. The fittings take over everything internal forces, keeping concrete intact for many years. The reinforcement bars are laid approximately every 5-10 cm. It is best to make a lattice from the bars with square cells, the side of which will be equal to 100 mm.
• Concrete 5 cm.
• Ruberoid in 2 layers with a slight overlap on the wall of the house (2-3 cm).
• Gartsovka, that is, a mixture of cement and sand, cement grade M-150 is mixed in a ratio of 1:3 with sand.
• Tile.

2. It’s difficult to give advice on this point. If you do concrete base under the blind area, then the same tiles will suit each zone. If you just use sand or grout without concrete, then the tiles will sag under the load and will need to be re-laid.

3. A slope is required to drain water. The slope can be made even at the stage of installing the drainage layer, which is important when using paving slabs. You can also make a slope during the formation of the finishing layer of concrete. The slope should have a minimum value of 1.5 percent, that is, approximately 8 mm for every half meter of blind area length. This slope guarantees normal water drainage. For a blind area made of paving slabs, the difference is 5-10 cm per 1 m.

And also, so that the concrete does not constantly harden, lay roofing material in 2 layers on top concrete screed, and then prancing. Ruberoid will help preserve concrete longer.

As for the gutters. It is advisable to make a concrete tray around the perimeter of the blind area to drain water; you can also use a sawn pipe laid on a concrete base or purchased gutters for these purposes. Water will flow into them from the blind area and from the drainage system and flow to the side.

4. No, just tiles laid on sand will not serve as a blind area, but with a reinforced and waterproofed concrete base it will.

5. Expansion seam is needed so that the blind area tape, changing its linear dimensions when temperatures change, can shift without accumulating internal stresses. MThere should always be a small gap of 1-2 cm between the blind area and the wall.It is better to fill it with ordinary sand or polystyrene. Often, such a gap is filled with a gasket made of several layers of roofing material. The overlap that I wrote about at the beginning will be enough.If there is no such seam, then the blind area, which is made of paving slabs, will create an additional lateral load on the foundation or walls during frost ground floor. This can lead to the destruction of their waterproofing.

Important - the blind area is done only after all work on the facade of the building is completed. This strict requirement is primarily due to the fact that the blind area must protrude beyond the edge of the facade by a certain distance (from 1 to 1.5 m), and the boundary of this edge can be set only after the facade has been completely finished.The laid surface of the paving slabs is thoroughly cleaned of any remaining dry mixture and watered along the expansion joints with a small amount of water.

Ask.

answer

Many owners of private houses are interested in how to lay paving slabs. This finishing material Now it is very popular for decorating local areas. Paving slabs allow you to create not only ordinary masonry, but also a kind of multi-colored mosaic of elements irregular shape.

The main advantages of paving slabs

Not everyone knows how to lay paving slabs correctly. It's comparative new material. However, paving slabs have already become more in demand than the well-known paving stones.

Among the main advantages of paving slabs are the following properties:

• low cost;
• simple installation technology;
• durability;
• environmental friendliness;
• resistance to aggressive influence environment;
• variety of shapes and colors;
• the ability to create bright and original elements landscape design.

To lay a path or area with paving slabs yourself, you do not need any special technical skills or knowledge, only the ability to use ordinary tools. If you follow the procedure exactly during the installation process and try a little, everything will definitely work out.

How to choose a tile

Thick tiles (more than 60 mm) can withstand weight truck with a full body. These tiles are usually in the form of small bars. This gives the cladding additional strength.

It’s not difficult to figure out how to lay paving slabs correctly. The main condition for a novice master is to choose a small area for his first experiments. A garden path is best. It is better to choose one-color, square or rectangular tiles.

Marking the site and preparing the base

First you need to calculate the area of ​​the path or site. It is calculated according to required quantity tiles You need to purchase material with a reserve of 10-15% in case of damage to the material. In order not to make mistakes when making calculations, you can draw a plan of the future site. This will make it easier to carry out the necessary calculations and calculations.

Curbs are required along the edges of the path. This will help maintain the integrity of the structure. The border should be several times thicker than the selected tile. It is necessary to lay tiles only on a properly prepared base; not only does this depend on appearance, but also the strength of the structure.

The correct base for paving slabs

To fulfill all necessary work The following tools will be required:

• shovels - shovel and bayonet;
• grinder saw;
• spatulas;
• rule;
• building level;
• roulette;
• rubber mallet or mallet;
• twine or cord, scaffolding;
• trowel;
• rake;
• container for preparing the mixture.

First you need to outline the location of the path or site. To do this, pegs are driven into the ground on both sides of the route. A cord or twine is tied to them. You need to walk along the marked area in different directions to determine the correctness of the markings and the optimal location of the site or path. The markings can be adjusted during operation.

Drainage system

The technology for laying paving slabs with your own hands requires drainage works. On clayey, swampy soil with a high location groundwater internal drainage is required. For this in the process earthworks the required slope is formed, mounted drainage pipes for water drainage.

On dry soil, it is enough to arrange external drainage. To do this, paving slabs are laid on the path with a slope of 2 or 3° towards the curb. Some water will seep through the seams between the tiles.

Construction of the foundation

You need to dig a ditch under the foundation. The top layer of soil is removed to a depth of 20 cm. Remains of vegetation must be removed. The bottom must be leveled and compacted. If the soil is very weak, a concrete screed is laid under the future paving slab structure. This will strengthen the base and ensure the longevity of the path or area.

Concrete reinforced base under paving slabs

Then the curbs are installed. A cushion of fine-grained (10-20) crushed stone or gravel is poured between them. The bulk material must be leveled and slightly compacted.

Curbs on both sides of the path must be installed parallel. The internal space between them should accommodate the required number of tiles. In this case, it is necessary to take into account mounting clearances of 2-3 mm. Then a solution is prepared for concreting the curbs. Cement grade M300 or higher and sifted sand are taken. Proportion 1:2.

The gravel cushion at the bottom of the trench is filled with coarse wet sand, which must be leveled. The thickness of the sand cushion after compacting the sand should be at least 3-5 cm. To control from the top edge of the curb downwards, you need to measure 1.5 times the thickness of the tile.

Tiles are laid on top. If its position exceeds the desired level by 1 cm, the sand can be compacted. To do this, the finished pillow must be moistened generously and left for several hours. Pack tightly. After a day, you can begin laying the tiles. The main thing is that the concrete poured under the curbs is completely hardened.

Laying tiles on sand and crushed stone

The tiles are laid in clear, dry weather. Wind, rain, and dampness make the installation process difficult and can worsen the result, especially if the master does not yet have the necessary skills. The path is laid out in the direction away from you; you cannot stand on the sand and gravel pad while working.

Before laying paving slabs with your own hands, you need to prepare the installation mixture. For it, take dry sifted fine sand and cement in a ratio of 3:1 or a ready-made composition purchased at a building materials store.

Laying tiles on a cement-sand mixture

So that the path can be dismantled later, the tiles must be laid only on sand. The dry mixture or sand is poured to a thickness of no more than 4 cm; the pillow needs to be leveled. When backfilling, you can use guides made of reinforcing rods, tubes, etc. The mixture is distributed over the working surface with a trowel or rake and leveled using a rule.

If the path is narrow, sand is poured between the curbs and leveled with a trowel. Using a level you need to create a drainage slope. While working, the master moves along the length of the path, holding a bucket of sand and tools at hand. On a wide path, the dry mixture is poured along the beacons. The height of the beacons is reduced by 1 cm every meter of the width of the future path to ensure water drainage.

Aligning the base with beacons

You need to pour sand on top of the finished masonry and use a hard mop to grout the laid surface. Instead of sand, you can use special grouting compounds. The procedure for working with them is indicated on the packaging.

Laying tiles on a concrete base

Preparatory work for laying paving slabs on a concrete base is carried out in the same way. First, the tiles are laid on a work surface covered with sand.

To prepare the solution, use M500 cement. It must be diluted with water to the required consistency. It is better to mix the solution with an electric drill or a construction mixer. Gradually add sand to the mixture of water and cement. It should be 4 times more than dry cement.

When laying on concrete, a strict sequence must be observed. The tiles are removed one by one from the sand cushion. You need to remove 4 elements of preliminary masonry at a time. The solution is applied to the vacant area. It needs to be evenly distributed. Having laid the tiles on top of the mortar, it is necessary to trim and lightly press down with a mallet. When laying, special wooden spacers are installed between the tiles to obtain the required gap. When the entire path or area has been laid out, the remaining mortar must be removed from the surface.

Some rules for laying tiles

In order for the laid material to be smooth and beautiful along the entire length of the path, it is necessary to lay out the initial row of tiles especially carefully. You need to stretch the line across the path, maintaining a drainage slope towards the curb. The first tile is installed 0.5 cm from the curb. In the longitudinal direction, laying is controlled by a level.

On the path, the tiles are laid diagonally and compacted with a mallet. Between the elements you need to leave a gap of 2 mm. The laid out row must be carefully inspected and all errors must be corrected immediately. Usually it is enough to adjust the amount of sand under protruding or sinking elements. An evenly laid initial row is the key to ensuring that the entire path will turn out neat and beautiful.

Tamping will speed up the work of laying paving slabs

If the masonry involves partial tiles, they should be laid out last. To correctly mark the cutting line, the tile must be attached to the installation site. A hacksaw is suitable for cutting tiles, but the work will go very slowly. Therefore, you need to cut paving slabs with a grinder. A diamond disc is installed on it. You can use a special knife. You need to wear safety glasses when working.

Sealing seams and cracks

When the installation of paving slabs is completed, it is necessary to seal small cracks. To do this, you need to prepare a cement solution with high content liquid glass. This will give the structure resistance to aggressive environmental influences. A mixture of sand and cement or sand is poured into the assembly joints between the individual elements.

Sand for filling cracks and assembly seams Only clean ones can be used. A small amount of organic elements or salts will subsequently lead to the appearance of small flora on the paved area. Plants will spoil the appearance of the structure and reduce its strength.

Sand is compacted using a hose with a narrow spray nozzle. The procedure must be repeated several times. Bulk material is added each time. The density of filling the assembly joints will ensure the strength and durability of the entire masonry.

Options for laying paving slabs

Paving slabs allow you to create various figures and ornaments on local area. You can use ready-made laying schemes or come up with your own version of the design of a path or site.

The most common options for laying paving slabs:

• herringbone;
• network;
• chessboard;
• random mix;
• circular pattern.

Using multi-colored elements of different shapes, alternating installation options, you can create interesting compositions based on the principle of regular mosaics or puzzles.

Geometric laying of paving slabs

It is better to perform figured masonry first in an area near the work site. This will allow you to correct individual errors or change something in advance. When work surface will be ready, the tiles are gradually transferred to it and laid in the required order.

To tile a round area, you need to make a primitive compass from wooden slats with pointed ends. With its help, a circle is drawn on the prepared area on top of the sand cushion. Next, the tiles are laid from the outer edge to the center of the site.

Use and care

A freshly laid paving slab path will be ready for use 2-3 days after all work is completed. To remove dust and debris, the path is usually swept with a broom and washed with a stream of water from a hose. Deep patterns with bright colors requires cleaning more often and more carefully than conventional masonry.

The sand placed in the tile joints is gradually washed away as the path or platform is used. Therefore, it needs to be topped up as needed. Damaged structural elements (for example, cracked tiles) are easily replaced with new ones.

Paving slabs are not resistant to mechanical stress, so they cannot be cleaned with abrasive powder. It is better to use sifted river sand.

Do not use strong chemicals to remove stains. Weak enough soap solution. It is applied with a soft brush and then washed off with water from a hose.

IN winter time Snow and ice must be carefully removed without using metal tools. Can be used with rubber tip. This will save decorative tiles. To prevent the path from being slippery, it should be sprinkled with regular clean sand.

Laying paving slabs is a complex undertaking that requires compliance with many building regulations. Failure to comply with one of the rules leads to the destruction of the entire complex.

Preparatory work. The first stage preparatory work for laying paving slabs and paving stones is to break down the contour of the area to be laid and set up control “beacons”. In this case, the angles of the territory, connection to existing areas, and slopes are taken into account. After the work on laying out the contour has been completed, they begin to prepare the foundation, which includes the following types of work:

Layout. After removing the height level, you need to remove top layer soil and make a leveling layer of gravel or crushed stone.

Installation of slopes, drainage. It should be taken into account that despite the tight-fitting seams of the paving stones, the base is saturated with water. Therefore, a waterproof drainage bearing layer (gravel, crushed stone) is required at the base. Then part of the surface water can be drained directly through the paving stones and the load-bearing layer into the ground. In any case, the paving stones must have slopes and gutters to drain rainwater. This is necessary so that a “swamp” does not form under the paving stones.

Construction of the supporting layer. For the supporting layer, a frost-resistant material of uniform grain size (crushed stone, gravel) must be used. This material must be applied evenly in height and straight with appropriate slopes. When installing simple pedestrian paths Most often, a layer from 15 to 20 cm is used. When constructing areas of paving stones for the passage of passenger cars, a layer from 20 to 30 cm is used. For heavy loads, the load-bearing layer is increased and laid in several layers, each layer is necessarily compacted with a vibrating plate or roller.

Installation of curbs. To prevent the paving stones from “creeping” along the edges, a plastic border or curb is used, which should reach half the height of the paving stones and can then be covered with natural soil.

Installation of a leveling sand layer under the paving stones. A layer of sand 3 - 5 cm thick, always clean (without clay), is applied to the compacted bearing layer as an underlying layer. Before laying the underlying layer, you need to set the leveling slats and secure them with sand.

After the guides have been set according to all slopes and are well secured, the underlying layer is laid between them and smoothed using the rule so that the paving stones, before they are compacted, lie 1 cm higher than the required level. Then the guides are carefully removed, and the remaining grooves are carefully filled with sand. Do not step on the laid flooring!!!

Laying paving stones

To lay paving slabs with a sufficient amount of work, a team of 4 people is required, which can, on average, cover a volume of 30-40 m2 with all related work in one work shift.

Laying begins:

• From the lowest point to the highest point;
• From an optically important boundary;
• From important visible elements, such as the front entrance of the house, porch, etc.

Before starting to lay the first row of paving stones, to maintain the exact distance of the seams, you need to pull the cord over the entire length and width of the object. Then, holding the taut cord, we proceed to installation. It is recommended to check the exact location of the seams every three rows of laid paving stones.

It is laid using a rubber hammer and lightly tapping it on the paving stones. Every 5 m2 of laid but not compacted paving stones horizontal surface controlled using the 2-meter rule, with errors from 5 mm to 1 cm per 2 meters of laid area.

Often there are problems with very precise cutting of paving stones. For this there are cutting discs with diamond coating. At an object of up to 100 m2, up to two disks are completely worn out.

Sealing of seams and vibration compaction. After the paving stones are laid, the covering is compacted with a vibrating plate. After the first vibration compaction of the finished coating, a small amount of very dry, sifted and clean material is poured onto the surface. river sand, so that the sand easily and tightly fills the gaps between the elements. The poured sand is spread evenly over the entire area and driven into the seams by simply sweeping, “tying” the entire coating firmly and reliably. Then the dry and clean coating is compacted again with a vibrating plate and a layer of dry sifted sand is applied. It is recommended to leave this layer of sand to sit for a while. After which you can sweep the site again.

Current operation. In winter, to avoid ice, the coating should be cleaned regularly using a broom and a wooden shovel. To reduce slipperiness, you can sprinkle sand. If the snow was not removed in time and ice formed, under no circumstances should you remove the ice using a metal scrap. Snow removal equipment servicing the coating should also have a rubber attachment on the blade.

When exposed various materials Contamination may occur on the paving stones, significantly changing the appearance of the coating. For example, car tires leave black stripes, dust and road dirt make the surface black and gray. Using cleaning products and special substances, you can return the surface to its original color.

When a house construction and landscape design project is created, the topography of the area is first taken into account. It determines where the house, extension, gazebo, pool or pond, playground, etc. will be located. When all the planned objects are brought to life, they will be connected by garden paths made of paving slabs. Small irregularities, holes and bumps can be easily dealt with by leveling the surface. But what to do if the site is located on a slope? Let's figure out what slopes there are and how to lay paving slabs on them.

1. What types of slopes are there?

2. Methods for laying paving slabs

3. Features of installation on slopes

What are the slopes?

When laying paving slabs on a slope, certain features must be taken into account. To understand them, let us denote the classification of slopes:

1. Less than 3° - flat surface

2. From 3° to 10° - slight slope

3. From 10° to 20° - average slope

4. More than 20° - steep slope

Even with a small slope, laying is carried out in the usual way, but a slope of more than 10° already requires a special approach.

Methods for laying paving slabs

Let's consider an example of a device for laying paving slabs on flat surface using paving stones as an example. Paving stones are a type of paving slab; they have the shape of a brick. Paving stones are distinguished by such characteristics as increased strength, wear resistance, as well as a wide selection of colors. Why paving stones? She has the most simple form, which means this will simplify the further process of paving the area and ensure waste minimization.

Any project begins with planning: it is necessary to determine the purpose of the path and the type of soil. The thickness of the tile, as well as the features of the base, depend on this.

The surface where the tiles will be laid is marked. The boundaries are marked with pegs, between which a cord is pulled.

After this, trenches are made for installing curb stones. Do not forget that curbs are not the boundaries of the paving; they serve as stops so that the tiles do not move apart. On a flat surface, trenches are made so deep that after laying the curbs are flush with the paving slabs. On a slope, it is recommended to make curbs below the level of paving slabs to improve water drainage. They are installed on concrete mortar.

Then the soil is removed from the site of future paths. The depth of the excavation depends on the type of soil. For example, on clay soils will definitely need to be installed drainage system from crushed stone of medium fractions with a thickness of 15-20 cm, so the soil is removed to a depth of 40-45 cm.

Next, the base layers are laid, each of which must be well compacted and leveled. The top (underlying) layer is made of sand, concrete or cement-sand mixture. Elements of paving stones are laid on it. Each row requires special attention, because each subsequent one depends on it. The paving stone elements are tapped with a rubber mallet.

At the final stage, the seams between the tiles are covered with a cement-sand mixture, watered with water to shrink and filled again. This way you get a smooth, beautiful coating that is ready for use in 1-2 days.

Features of installation on slopes

Laying tiles can be done in areas with a slight to medium slope. On steep slopes paving slabs can serve as a decorative or cladding element.

Slight slope

A slight steepness is very typical for any terrain, especially for the blind area of ​​a residential building; it is often formed by the natural topography. On a slope of less than 10° you can create garden paths, platforms, car parks - any kind of paving. Laying tiles in this case is no different from usual. You must act according to the rules described above.

Average slope

While on small slopes you can create paving for any purpose, on slopes from 10° to 20° tiles can only be an element garden paths. Carrying out work on a site with an average slope has some features in both preparatory work and foundation construction. It should be remembered that the greater the slope, the greater the likelihood of the installation slipping. This is exactly what needs to be prevented.

To solve this problem, non-woven roll material geotextiles (or geogrid). The properties of geotextiles include strength, frost resistance, and environmental friendliness. The material does not rot, prevents the germination of weeds, and, most importantly for a site with a slope, it prevents the displacement of the base layers. Geotextiles are laid on the bottom and walls of the excavation, on top of which crushed stone is laid, compacted, then a layer of fabric is laid again. Read more about geotextiles in this article. Laying paving slabs on an area with a slope is done from the lowest point (against the movement of water). At the very bottom, a concrete drain is installed in such a way as to allow the first rows of tiles to rest against it. Next, installation is carried out in the usual way. The placement of tile elements is done on your own. On a slope, it is better to make the underlying base layer from concrete to increase the strength of the coating.

This information will be enough to understand how to lay paving slabs on a slope

Let's figure out what slopes there are and how to lay paving slabs on them.

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Before starting work, it is necessary to mark future sidewalks and determine the required elevations. If your work is carried out by specialists, and you have a plan for your improvement, then we can say that you already have everything you need. Qualified specialists will qualitatively and competently carry out markings on the ground and transfer the elevation marks of the surface of the future sidewalk to the ground.

But if you plan to carry out landscaping on our own, then in this case you must first think about everything and follow the proverb: “Measure seven times, cut once.”

Prepare pegs 50 cm long. They can be either wooden or metal. Pegs should be driven into the ground in the corners of the laying area and in places where the paving cloth and sidewalk paths turn. When all these points are marked, we move on to the actual important point- selection of elevation marks.

Elevations.

The main task of sidewalk paths and squares, in addition to the aesthetic load, is to drain rainwater from their surfaces, so the choice of elevation marks can be roughly called: drainage of water from the point “FROM” to the point “TO”

"BEFORE" is the place or places where they will be allocated rainwater. This could be: lawn, gutter, ditch, etc. That is, places where rainwater will not bother anyone. Drain rainwater into urban areas sewer systems- it is forbidden.

With the point "OT" you need to think a little. It can be, for example, the maximum height of the tile surface at which the doors will close without problems, even in winter, taking into account ice, etc. It is necessary to dance in choosing this point naturally knowing the point “BEFORE”. The "FROM" point must be higher than the "TO" point. A slope of at least 1 cm in height per 1 meter of length (1:100) is considered normal. The tile canvas, after installation, whether we like it or not, undergoes deformation (that is, it bends). With high-quality installation and all necessary excavation work, these deformations are minimal and the specified slope guarantees the drainage of water from the paving surface.

If the condition t. "FROM" -> MINIMUM SLOPE (1:100) -> t. "TO" is met, then you can safely begin moving elevation marks to the ground. (The slope in this case must be no less than specified).

If compliance with this condition is impossible, then it is necessary to reconsider the directions of the slopes and it may be possible to organize withdrawal to other places. Sometimes removing excess soil helps. Sometimes, complexly organized rainwater drainage is broken down into simpler components, but in any case, it is imperative to maintain a minimum slope.

Preparing the base for laying paving slabs.

Underlying layers.

After marking and setting out elevation marks is over, let's move on to one of the most significant issues. Preparation of the underlying layer.

The underlying layer is loose materials in a compacted state that are located between the existing soil and the tile. This is usually: Crushed stone, Sand, Cement-sand mixture. The underlying layer serves two purposes:

Displaying elevations for specified values;

Protection of the paving surface from soil heaving in winter.

Structure of the underlying layer (from top to bottom):

Tile (thickness - 6 cm)

Sand (thickness - 10 cm);

Crushed stone (thickness - up to 20 cm);

Existing soil.

There are certain technologies for constructing underlying layers (from top to bottom):

Option-1. For complex cases(traffic of freight vehicles, problems with existing soils):

Cement mortar (thickness - 3 cm);

Reinforced concrete (thickness - 10-15 cm);

Option-2. For passenger cars:

Cement-sand mixture (CPS) (thickness - 3 cm);

Sand (thickness - 10 cm);

Crushed stone (thickness - 20 cm).

Option-3. For pedestrian paths:

Cement-sand mixture (CPS) (thickness - 3 cm);

Sand (thickness - 10 cm);

Crushed stone (thickness - 10 cm).

The choice of technology should be determined by the requirements that will be imposed on the tile canvas in the future, during operation. If the sidewalk path is intended for the passage of pedestrians, then there is no need for concreting according to option No. 1. These are unnecessary and unjustified costs. And vice versa, if the soils are prone to subsidence, then by arranging an underlying layer for the passage of passenger cars, according to option 2, you will get problems with the sidewalk and headaches in the future. It is advisable to entrust the choice of this or that technology to a specialist, especially since there are often combined options when several technologies are used at one facility (under sidewalk paths- option-3, for the passage of passenger vehicles - option-2, etc.). In this case, installation costs will be optimal.

It is also worth mentioning the cheapest option for installing a base for tiles. We are talking about laying paving slabs only on sand. In my opinion, this option deserves attention and is quite reliable with the appropriate approach. For it the following conditions must be met:

• 1) The existing soil must be naturally compacted over many years!!!
• 2) Sand should not be allowed to wash out from under the tiles. To do this, coat all joints between borders with a solution, especially on the inside;
• 3) Rainwater drainage must be carried out in an organized manner, strictly along trays, which in turn must be installed on a solution.

If these three conditions are met, the paving slab will serve you for as long as if you follow the installation technology, but the cost of the work as a whole will be significantly less.

Let's look at the components of the underlying layer.

Both granite and limestone, fractions 20-40, are used. Where this fraction is large, i.e. elevations do not allow its use, a fraction of 5-20 is used. The use of sludge significantly reduces the cost of the underlying layer.

According to the technology, it is used to construct the upper leveling layer. You can use any sand, but do not contain clay particles and stones.

Cement-sand mixture.

Ratio 1:8. Mix thoroughly, preferably in a mortar mixer. Cement M500. Prepared in volume based on daily production. The unused DSP becomes unusable the next day.

The construction of the underlying layer should be done in layers of approximately 10 cm, with obligatory layer-by-layer compaction with mechanical vibrating plates, or they should be spilled with water. Experience shows that pouring is effective even with layers of greater thickness. Water also reaches places that are difficult to reach or even inaccessible for vibrating plates (various connections).