IN recent years construction is becoming increasingly popular low-rise buildings from aerated concrete. With all the advantages and disadvantages of this material, novice developers often have questions about whether it is necessary to insulate a house built from, and if it is insulated with extruded polystyrene foam, then how to do it correctly. We figure it out with the help of manufacturers.

Question 1. Why do you need to insulate aerated concrete?

To understand whether it is necessary to additionally insulate the walls aerated concrete house, first you need to understand the properties of this wall material.

Aerated concrete belongs to the type cellular concrete. It is made from quartz sand, lime, cement and water with the addition of a gas-forming agent (aluminum powder). When a gas-forming agent interacts with lime, chemical reaction, as a result of which hydrogen gas is formed in the “body” of the material, foaming cement mortar. This leads to the appearance of fine cavities with air. That is, figuratively speaking, aerated concrete is an artificial “air” stone, and air is a good heat insulator.

Andrey Zherebtsov Head of the technical department of the company "PENOPLEX"

Thanks to the cellular structure and low density, the weight is reduced and the heat-shielding properties of aerated concrete are increased.

For example, the thermal conductivity coefficient of aerated concrete, depending on its density (400-600 kg/m3) and strength class (B2.5-3.5 - blocks D400 and D600) can vary from 0.096 W/m*K to 0.14 W/ m*K.

It is worth noting that the above coefficients are correct for the material dry. Moreover, the numbers are indicated for one block, and the wall consists of many blocks. Those. “cold bridges” (masonry joints) and additional heat-conducting elements that reduce the thermal resistance of the wall are not taken into account. These are concrete lintels, reinforced belts, metal fasteners used in the installation of facade systems, etc.

Therefore, the calculation must be carried out using the thermal conductivity coefficients of aerated concrete masonry under certain humidity conditions, depending on the region (humidity zone) of construction.

Also, due to its porous structure, aerated concrete is vapor permeable. This affects its heat-shielding properties, because An increase in moisture content (contained in steam) leads to an increase in the thermal conductivity of the material and a decrease in its heat-shielding characteristics.

The blocks also have residual moisture content, which decreases as the blocks dry out.

Andrey Zherebtsov

Before construction begins, design solutions should be provided that will protect the blocks from waterlogging. Or forced drying of cellular concrete blocks is carried out until the moisture content stabilizes at the operational level - no more than 10% by weight.

For this you can use heat guns power of at least 2 kW. It is also necessary to protect the blocks during the construction process from excessive waterlogging, preventing the blocks from being in water and covering them from prolonged rains.

For example, an increase in water saturation by mass by 1% leads to an increase in the thermal conductivity coefficient by more than 3-4%. It is allowed to install blocks without preliminary drying at low release humidity (up to 10% by weight) and the absence of precipitation during the work process.

We remember about the so-called operational (equilibrium) humidity of the material, which is set within 4-5% after 2-3 heating seasons. Those. actual thermal conductivity coefficient of cellular concrete with a density of 500 kg/m 3 (0.12 W/m*K in dry condition) ≈ 0.14 W/m*K.

The speed at which the block is dried is directly proportional to its vapor transmission capacity and sorption humidity. The lower the humidity of the block and the higher the vapor permeability, the faster the block will dry.

In addition, the use of cellular concrete blocks in wet areas, without water protection, can lead to excess moisture accumulation.

Based on the above, in order to achieve a stable indicator that corresponds to the calculated thermal resistance walls (according to SP 50.13330.2012 “Thermal protection of buildings”), it must be insulated with a material that is not subject to moisture accumulation and harmful effects atmospheric phenomena.

For example, extruded polystyrene foam, which has a low thermal conductivity coefficient (λ = 0.032 W/m*K) and is characterized by a long service life. This raises the question, because this material has a low vapor permeability (µ = 0.008 mg/(m h Pa), due to the closed cellular structure, will it turn out that the steam and moisture contained in it (since aerated concrete is vapor permeable) will be “locked” in the wall, What will lead to excess moisture accumulation?

Question 2. What to do with breathing walls?

To answer this question, we need to consider such a concept as “breathing walls”. Often, when pronouncing this phrase, two concepts are confused - the air permeability of the enclosing structure (the ability to maintain air exchange) and its vapor permeability (the ability to remove vapor trapped in the wall outside).

Andrey Zherebtsov

Modern standards require that the air in the room must be renewed every hour, based on the norm of 60 m³ per person. Even without resorting to calculations, we can say that not a single reliable enclosing structure will provide air exchange in the room to the volume we require.

Air exchange in the house should be maintained modern system ventilation.

Let's move on. Steam is always present inside a living space - the result of human activity. By observing the general construction rule: the vapor permeability of layers (in a multilayer wall) should increase from the inside to the outside, we allow excess steam to escape to the outside. But modern materials used for interior decoration, vinyl wallpaper, paint, plaster significantly reduce the vapor permeability of walls, because these materials play the role of a vapor barrier.

Andrey Zherebtsov

Calculations show that most of the operational humidity (over 97%) is eliminated through the supply and exhaust system.

The movement of water vapor through walls is a natural physical process. At the same time, the amount of water vapor that can escape from the room outside or penetrate inside is insignificant.

According to the requirement of clause 8.8, SP 55.13338.2011, the enclosing structures of the house must have thermal insulation, air insulation from the penetration of external cold air and vapor barrier from the diffusion of water vapor from interior spaces. Thus, the migration of water vapor and outside air directly through external enclosing structures is not allowed by regulation. Therefore, ventilation is also responsible for maintaining a comfortable microclimate in the house, and not the mythical breathing of the walls. After all, everything frame houses also made on the principle of a thermos.

Question 3. How to properly insulate a house made of aerated concrete with extruded polystyrene foam?

Having decided to insulate an aerated concrete house with extruded polystyrene foam, you must strictly follow the recommendations of specialists.

Andrey Zherebtsov

First of all, we need to provide a reliable closed vapor barrier circuit from inside the room. Those. - we will create a barrier for the diffusion of water vapor into aerated concrete and, thereby, prevent moisture accumulation in a vapor-permeable aerated concrete wall, closed from the outside with vapor-tight insulation.

The thickness of the insulation will be determined thermotechnical calculation(usually at least 100 mm). This will allow the dew point to be brought into the thickness of the thermal insulation material and eliminate the possibility of moisture accumulation in the wall.

As a vapor barrier, you can use ordinary polyethylene with a thickness of 200 microns. For rooms with high humidity air (bathrooms, saunas, steam rooms) such a barrier can serve tiles with vapor-tight grouting of joints.

1. Surface preparation.
2. Gluing thermal insulation boards.
3. Mechanical fixation of insulation.
4. Finishing the surface with a decorative layer of plaster.

Let's take a closer look at each of these stages.

Andrey Zherebtsov

Before thermal insulation of the walls from the outside, it is necessary to level the base (permissible surface unevenness is no more than 5 mm). In this case, it is recommended to wait or forcefully dry the walls before starting finishing works from the outside. Installation of thermal insulation must be carried out in the absence of precipitation.

Having prepared the surface, glue the thermal insulation boards to the wall. To do this, a slab with an applied adhesive composition is applied to the wall at a distance of 2 cm from the desired location. Then they move it with pressure. This is done to ensure that the adhesive connection is more uniform. For the so-called The dressings of the slabs and insulation are glued with an offset. Gluing is done from the corner of the building.

To speed up and simplify the process of gluing slabs of extruded and foamed polystyrene to the wall, you can use special polyurethane glue. This glue exhibits high adhesion to various substrates. For example: concrete, aerated concrete, brick, ceramic blocks etc.

After the insulation is glued to the wall, it is necessary to mechanically fasten it with disc-type dowels and self-tapping screws at the rate of 4 pcs. per 1 sq.m. At the corners of the building along the perimeter of window and doorways– 6-8 pcs. per 1 sq.m.

As exterior finishing a plaster system is used - the so-called. "wet façade"

Andrey Zherebtsov

To install the base plaster layer, as well as for gluing heat-insulating polystyrene boards, you need to use special plaster-adhesive mixtures. It should be remembered that the base outer layer of plaster on thermal insulation boards must be reinforced with fiberglass mesh.

Plastering work must be carried out at temperatures environment and bases in the range from +5 to +30°C. It is prohibited to carry out work during rain or strong wind. In addition, materials must be protected from rain, frost and direct solar radiation for a period of at least 72 hours. It is also not recommended to apply a reinforcing and decorative layer to the surface under the influence of direct sunlight.

Thus, by creating a sealed heat-insulating circuit outside the house, we will eliminate all cold bridges, protect the masonry from blowing, and therefore minimize heat loss through the walls, which will increase the energy efficiency of the building. In addition, using a special technical card, you can learn about other options for using thermal insulation based on extruded polystyrene foam.

Users of our portal will be interested in the topic. And our video presents a master class for beginners, which shows the preparatory work for plastering walls with the installation of beacons.

Today, the construction of private houses from aerated concrete blocks is becoming increasingly popular. Aerated concrete blocks have a rather interesting porous structure, which has low thermal conductivity, but are susceptible to moisture. This determines the use of a small amount of thermal insulation layer, usually one or two. This is enough for the severest frosts in winter time year and is a necessary condition for protecting blocks from the destructive effects of the environment. How to insulate a house made of aerated concrete?

Insulation of a house made of aerated concrete

Is it necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete? This is no longer a question, but how to do it correctly? Experts recommend insulating with outside Houses. This will avoid unnecessary spending usable area, and will also provide additional protection to the external walls of the house and the transition of the “dew point” to the external walls. Dew point – temperature limit, in which the cooling air reaches a state of saturation and condenses into dew. In addition, you should not experiment with the thickness of the aerated concrete wall, so the option of 300 millimeters disappears immediately. According to the recommendations of experts, 375 millimeters - minimum thickness walls of a private house made of aerated concrete! This is minimal permissible norm, taking into account the use of insulation.

Before you begin insulation, you need to select the insulation material and make a calculation of the amount of material that will be required during the work process. The choice of insulation material should be taken responsibly, because this factor will determine the final cost of the work, installation method, as well as quantitative consumption insulation material. But before choosing an insulation material, you need to decide on the option for insulating a private house.

Options for insulating a house made of aerated concrete blocks:

• From the inside. In any case, with this method, living space will suffer, which can be used in a more effective and efficient way. In addition, you will need to install a rather expensive ventilation system, but even this will not save you from the appearance of fungi and mold in the space between the insulation and the aerated concrete wall.
• Outside . It is recommended to insulate the outside walls of the house from the outside. This method is used not only for additional protection of walls from precipitation or scorching sun, but this method of insulation saves time due to relatively easy installation, there is no need to create additional space for work. In addition, if it is necessary to change the facade of the house, this can be done without unnecessary complications. In addition, external insulation provides additional sound insulation and gives the house a more attractive appearance.

Insulation process

What type of insulation to choose, how to insulate and what may be required for this? It is necessary to take into account the fact that aerated concrete has vapor-permeable properties. Therefore, in order to properly insulate the walls of a house made of aerated concrete from the outside, the insulation must have a vapor permeability higher than aerated concrete blocks. Otherwise in interior walls Moisture will begin to accumulate, which will gradually lead to their destruction or costly restoration. The most used materials as insulation for external walls aerated concrete house are mineral wool and polystyrene foam.

Important! A necessary point that should be taken into account when insulating a house is the influence of rodents. Small dirty tricks do not come close to mineral wool and simply adore polystyrene foam. They gnaw at it, forming burrows in it, so the façade must be completely covered with plaster to prevent the appearance of a family of rodents.

How to properly insulate with polystyrene foam?

Polystyrene foam does not allow steam to pass through, so when choosing such insulation, you should take care of a high-quality air ventilation system. But the undoubted advantages of using polystyrene foam include its low cost (almost several times cheaper than mineral wool).

Work order:

• Irregularities that arise over time or due to manufacturing defects should be leveled out;
• Near the windows you need to stick fiberglass mesh. It is attached in such a way that there is at least 10 centimeters of mesh under the outer layer of insulation, and it is also possible to glue about another 10 centimeters on top of it. This procedure is performed for additional reinforcement;
• Special glue is applied to the foam sheet (experts recommend using a notched trowel to ensure uniform application and coverage of the entire surface of the foam);

Is it possible to insulate with mineral wool?

Mineral wool as an insulating material it is much more practical than polystyrene foam. Of course, it has a higher cost, but it also has a number of undoubted advantages: high strength and vapor permeability. This material is recommended to be used to maintain a stable level of humidity and a comfortable microclimate in a private home. The working life of the insulating material without loss of operational features is more than 50 years. Mineral wool insulators are produced in the following versions: some are in the form of slabs, others are produced in the form of rolls. For ease of installation, the slabs are produced in sizes of 500*1000 millimeters.

Work order:

• External walls must be cleaned of dust and dirt. For this, aggressive detergents, a stiff brush and a metal sponge are used;
• Insulating walls with mineral wool will require special glue;
• Additional fixation is provided by the use of plastic dowels;
• After the mineral wool has dried a little, a fiberglass mesh is attached to it, which will subsequently protect the walls from cracks in the paint or plaster;
• Another layer of glue is applied on top of the fiberglass mesh;
• It is recommended to start plastering and painting the insulating material after the glue has dried.

Other materials used for insulation

In addition to mineral wool and polystyrene foam, penoplex (extruded polystyrene foam) and polyurethane foam can be used as insulation. Insulating aerated concrete from the outside with penoplex significantly reduces heat loss due to its low thermal conductivity coefficient. In addition, this material is suitable for installation on any surface. Polyurethane foam as insulation on the outside of the house forms foam when it begins to interact with the insulated surface.

Finishing of aerated concrete blocks

Aerated concrete blocks are several times larger than wooden materials by vapor permeability. This is one of several reasons for the popularity of aerated concrete blocks. But violations made during installation or operation can affect vapor permeability. Aerated concrete walls for siding – great solution by application finishing materials. Sometimes aerated concrete blocks can be hidden behind brick wall, decorative tiles or plaster mixtures. The work becomes easier when it turns out that an extended foundation was used to build the house. When refining appearance When using bricks, remember to create ventilation holes.

Finishing from the inside. Work order:

• A primer material is applied on top of the insulation;
• The plaster is applied after the primer has dried;
• It is recommended to smooth the walls after the plaster has dried. This stage is carried out 2 times in a row (the interval between repetitions is a day);
• The wall is insulated using internal facing material– drywall using a special adhesive solution. Pre-prepared wooden frame from slats, and plasterboard panels are mounted on them, which are subsequently painted with vapor-permeable paint.

An alternative to using aerated concrete blocks

It is most rational and effective to provide insulation of aerated concrete with penoplex, mineral wool or polystyrene foam at the stage of building a house. It is better to insulate the house at the very beginning than to carry out the work later, when the labor intensity will increase several times. But the most common mistake when building a house is laying aerated concrete blocks on concrete mortar. After all, it is he who lets the cold through. Outside air enters the house through the seams, increasing heating costs.

A possible option for effective installation is special adhesive base, the thickness of which does not exceed three millimeters. The better the roof, window openings and foundation are insulated, the better. After all, these objects are insulated at the very beginning of construction.

Afterword

Now you are probably wondering: is it necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete and what materials should be used? Of course you need it! After all, an insulated house built from aerated concrete has a number of advantages: relative ease of work, which does not require special skills, low cost And high thermal insulation walls provide residents of a private house with enough comfortable accommodation. But to eliminate possible troubles associated with climatic conditions and the manifestation of the vital activity of rodents, the best solution is the insulation of aerated concrete with polystyrene foam, penoplex or mineral wool.

Aerated concrete is a building material from the group of cellular concretes. Inside it contains a large number of pores formed by gas bubbles. These pores appear during the production process of the material. The uniformity of their distribution determines technical specifications aerated concrete. From this natural material, consisting of cement and sand, industrial and residential buildings are built. Is it possible to insulate aerated concrete walls with foam plastic?

Insulating walls made of aerated concrete with polystyrene foam will increase the degree of sound insulation, eliminate temperature changes in the home, and reduce heating costs.

On the market building materials Today, a huge assortment includes all kinds of insulation materials that can also be used to insulate aerated concrete. The most common insulation materials include polystyrene foam, penoplex, polyurethane foam and mineral wool. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. As a cheap and easy-to-install material, you should take a closer look at expanded polystyrene, better known as polystyrene foam. The term foam plastic should be understood as a group of materials that includes polystyrene foam.

Disadvantages and advantages of insulation

Properly performed foam insulation helps conserve heat in the house and save a lot of money on heating bills. But housing equipment internal thermal insulation has a number of disadvantages. These include:

• some reduction in the area of ​​the rooms;
• During the work, the premises must be completely cleared of furniture and various equipment;
• ventilation is necessary to prevent condensation;
• Working indoors requires some investment of time, effort and money.

External insulation of aerated concrete walls with foam plastic has its advantages:

• the façade of the building acquires beauty and durability;
• heating costs are significantly reduced;
• the walls receive excellent protection from external influences;
• the degree of sound insulation increases;
• insulation can be carried out at any stage of construction and operation of the building;
• the value of the house increases significantly;
• temperature changes in the home are excluded.

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Preparing for wall insulation

To perform thermal insulation work aerated concrete walls need to prepare:

• required number of foam sheets;
• perforator;
• special dowels for attaching insulation;
• hammer;
• adhesive mixture or ready-made glue;
• container for ready-made glue;
• spatula for applying glue to foam boards;
• polyurethane foam.

Foam sheets can be purchased with a small reserve in case they break. Special plastic dowels should have large mushroom-shaped caps with a diameter of 8-10 cm. They are equipped with a metal or plastic core. It is better to choose products with a plastic core, which will not allow the formation of cold bridges. The hammer drill must match the diameter of the working part of the dowel.

Glue is not always used. You can only get by with dowels that are driven into the wall with a hammer. A knife will be needed when cutting sheets of insulation and when cutting the plastic core of a dowel. You can use polyurethane foam to seal the remaining gaps between the foam boards.

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The process of insulating external walls with foam plastic

In regions with a predominant humid climate, it is not recommended to use polystyrene foam as insulation. Moisture accumulating between aerated concrete blocks and foam plastic will inevitably lead to rotting of the aerated concrete blocks.

Work on insulating walls made of aerated concrete is carried out in several successive stages:

• wall preparation;
• insulation of indoor walls;
• external insulation;
• finishing of surfaces.

The preparatory stage consists of cleaning the surface of the walls from dirt, sealing possible cracks and crevices with cement-based plaster, various mastics and putties.

Foam plastic slabs begin to be laid on the wall surface from the bottom row and from the corner of the building. The adhesive mixture is applied with a notched trowel to the entire surface of the slab. If the wall is not very smooth, then this method is not suitable. In this case, apply glue to a strip about 5-8 cm wide along the edge of the slab and place several dots with a diameter of about 10 cm in the center. The thickness of the adhesive layer should be 15-20 mm. After this, the plate is applied to the wall and pressed against it. The remaining slabs in the row are tightly applied to the previously installed ones.

Subsequent rows are laid offset relative to the bottom row to create something similar brickwork. For a more durable connection of the insulation to the wall, you need to additionally install plastic umbrella dowels. To do this, holes are drilled in the corners and in the center of each slab so that they penetrate 5 cm or more deep into the aerated concrete. The dowels are hammered into these holes. The hats are recessed into the foam by about a millimeter. A plastic core is driven into the center of the dowel until it stops. The remaining part is cut off with a knife.

The remaining gaps between the foam plates create cold bridges. They must be eliminated using polyurethane foam or a special sealant. After this, the walls can be primed and finished with plaster, then painted.

If you plan to finish with other materials such as siding and lining, then even before installing the insulation boards on the wall you need to mount a frame from wooden beams or metal guides to which the cladding material will be attached.

Cladding the walls of residential buildings with insulating materials is an event that is given special attention still at the design stage. It doesn’t matter what materials you use to build the facility, but experienced builders advise insulating not only the roof and floors, but also load-bearing walls. This will help save thermal energy and avoid the appearance of fungus. To solve this problem, there is a sufficient amount of materials suitable for these purposes. Let's try to figure out what is the best way to insulate a house made of aerated concrete.

Why do you need to insulate?

Many builders prefer gas silicate blocks for certain reasons. First of all, construction work such material does not imply the presence of special skills. The blocks are large and light and can be joined together without any problems using a special adhesive. Objects do not need a strong foundation, and insulating the walls of a house with aerated concrete from the outside will reduce the cost of the project.

The blocks belong to the group of cellular concrete. If we compare aerated concrete with the production of cinder blocks, then process has differences. In two words, a foam former – aluminum powder – is added to the mixture of cement and lime. Hydrogen is released, leaving a huge amount of voids in the block.

From the very beginning, porous blocks are characterized by weak strength to mechanical influences. To increase it, the final production stage takes place in an autoclave unit, where the blocks are subjected to significant pressure and high temperature. As a result, the material turns out to be quite durable.

From physics lessons we know that air is considered one of the the best materials capable of insulating heat. And the thermal conductivity index will depend on the number of pores in the block.

But there is one problem - the porous cells in the gas silicate material are open, which makes the block vapor-permeable and allows it to absorb moisture. For this reason, the answer to the question - is it necessary to insulate an aerated concrete house - will be unequivocal - it is necessary.

Another thing is what kind of protective layer to create, and is it necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete 300, or is it enough to line it with finishing materials?

It's no secret that the thickness load-bearing walls, no matter what materials they are made from, will be fully determined by the average annual temperature conditions your region. As it follows from this, the average thickness of aerated concrete walls can be 30–50 cm. But almost no one is interested in the fact that in this case experts are referring to the load-bearing characteristics of the blocks. Simply put, the walls will be strong.

And, for example, questions about whether it is necessary to insulate a house from aerated concrete 400 and other grades are often kept silent.

In terms of thermal conductivity, in some regions of Russia only aerated concrete walls start from 700 mm in thickness.

Anyone who is planning construction in these regions and is thinking whether there is a need to carry out external insulation of a house made of aerated concrete if its walls are 30 cm thick, or whether it is possible to simply install a layer of plaster, should take into account that if the facade of a house made of aerated concrete is insulated with polystyrene foam or mineralized wool, then insulation slabs ten centimeters thick will equivalently replace 300 mm thick walls made of aerated concrete material.

It turns out that half-meter walls should have a thermal insulation layer of at least 10 mm. And for walls made of aerated concrete grade d 500 with a thickness of 400 mm or less, more massive thermal insulation will be required.

In addition to the thermal conductivity indicator, there is another important feature– the concept of “dew point”. This term describes a place inside the external walls that has zero temperature. This is where the maximum amount of condensation will accumulate.

It should be recalled that aerated concrete blocks have a porous structure, and if the dew point falls on the block itself, then due to temperature fluctuations the moisture will freeze and thaw, destroying the material.

There is only one way out in this situation - try to move the point to the insulating layer. It will be less susceptible to destruction, and if it deteriorates, you can replace it faster than rebuilding walls. By the way, this explains the need to insulate external walls.

Insulation materials

The most common methods used to insulate walls made of thermally insulating aerated concrete are:

Features of insulation with various materials

There are many options for installing a layer of insulating material. Manufacturers offer large selection the products needed for this at affordable prices. Let's look at the most popular options:

Expanded polystyrene

One of the economical options, used only outside the facility. There are two types - foam plastic and penoplex.

Foam plastic

The cost of the material is low, so it is preferred by developers seeking to save budget.

It should be taken into account that it does not allow steam to pass through. For this reason, when installing an insulating layer, it is recommended to provide a ventilation system.

The material is fixed on pre-cleaned walls with an adhesive composition applied with a notched spatula. Additionally, plastic dowels are used. When gluing foam sheets, their slight displacement is allowed. The surface can be plastered and painted after the adhesive solution has completely dried.

Penoplex

With its characteristics, the material resembles foam plastic and is used for outdoor work. Before installation, the wall surface is cleaned of gaps, chips, protrusions and cracks using plaster mortar. This gives the wall surface evenness and additional protection from the penetration of cold air currents.

When the plaster solution has dried, the wall is treated with a primer compound to improve the adhesion of the penoplex insulation to the aerated concrete blocks. When constructing an insulating layer, use adhesive composition cement based and disc dowels. The final stage is finishing the facade walls plaster solutions or siding panels.

Minvata

The material has good strength and vapor permeability, and goes well with aerated concrete walls.

The use of such material provides comfort and a moderate level of humidity in the room.

The insulating layer will last for at least seventy years. The material is secured with plastic dowels and glue, which secures a mesh of fiberglass material. It will ensure the integrity of the plaster layer and paint applied on top. Some people prefer to insulate the walls outside with mineral wool under the siding.

Many people prefer stone wool

And yet, what is the best way to insulate aerated concrete? Today's market is able to offer any materials for finishing and insulation. You just need to remember that not all insulation materials can work effectively on aerated concrete blocks.

Basic principle of creation multilayer construction– strengthening the vapor permeability of the next layer, starting from inner surface walls Be that as it may, steam is one of the waste products, and part of it is removed outside through the walls. Among all the materials used as insulation for aerated concrete houses, many experts choose stone wool.

Two types of facade are very popular - “wet”, which has thin layer plasters, and a hinged ventilated system. In the first option, steam is released through the walls into the insulating layer, then passes into the plaster. In another case, the steam is drawn out along ventilation gaps, which are arranged between the insulating layer and the facing material.

More durable slabs are used under the plaster layer, and for ventilated facades, preference is given to lightweight mineral wool with a low level of compressibility.

A thin layer of plaster can be applied to all substrates, and in ventilated facade system The use of materials that meet fire safety requirements is permitted. Is it worth reminding that cotton wool belongs to just such a group.

Technological features of installation of mineral wool

A ventilated facade finished with siding is a popular option for finishing private houses, because with its help all foundation errors are leveled out. And the work is not very difficult; it can be done on its own.

Over time, heaving forces or other reasons can cause cracks in the masonry, but the suspended cladding system does not suffer. And if we take into account the fragility of aerated concrete blocks and the need for strict adherence to production technology, most consumers give their preference to cladding, considering it a more durable finishing layer. To know how to properly insulate a house made of aerated concrete from the outside, you need to understand the stages of the work.

Preparatory stage

If you decide to insulate a building that is already in use, all functional and decorative elements, clean the surface from dirt, prime. If there are doubts about the load-bearing capabilities of the foundation and walls, they are examined by tapping them with a hammer.

When insulation is carried out during construction, the remaining solution is removed from the surface. Wet walls should be given time to dry completely.

Surface marking

Markings are applied to the walls using a construction level or level to create a frame base. The distances between the bars depend on the size of the insulation material.

Installation of vertical racks

To completely eliminate heat leakage, insulation is performed in two layers, with overlaps at the joints. To do this, first assemble the vertical sheathing.

The size of the bars must correspond to the thickness of the insulation. Fix it to the aerated concrete surface with special fasteners.

Laying wool

The thickness of the insulation is determined according to special thermal calculations. Most often it is 10 - 15 cm. The complete absence of shrinkage and excellent elasticity of the material make it possible to simplify the technological process by installing wool without additional fasteners, inserting it by surprise. If necessary, they can always be trimmed with a sharp knife or hand saw with small teeth. Cuttings are always useful for filling gaps.

Attaching horizontal posts

Having laid the first layer, markings are made for the horizontal slats. The second row of bars is necessary so that the frame base for the siding is fixed vertically to it.

Cotton padding

Plates laid sideways with the seam sections shifted completely eliminate cold bridges, even if the racks are fixed with metal fasteners.

Protection

How to insulate walls stone wool, we figured it out. All that remains is to protect it from the effects of precipitation and ensure unimpeded drainage of condensate. For this purpose, vapor-permeable material is laid.

On top of such a membrane, fasteners are installed for the cladding, while maintaining a gap of three to five centimeters, ensuring normal operating conditions for the insulation.

Many people doubt whether it is necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete in this way, considering it costly. But the heat saved in the future will allow you to save on heating.

Internal insulation of a building made of aerated concrete blocks

We understand how to insulate the outside of walls. It remains to provide internal insulation. It is important to know here that aerated concrete should not be insulated inside, since in winter warm air currents will not be able to pass through the block pores. Condensation will begin to accumulate, the walls will become saturated with moisture and freeze. All this will have a negative impact on the operation of the facility. From the inside, you can simply level the walls with your own hands and hang wallpaper.

It turns out that aerated concrete is insulated only from the outside. This will help preserve heat and protect the house from destruction. By the way, don’t forget about the insulation for the ceiling. Mineral wool, already known for its properties, will perfectly cope with its role.

As follows from the reviews, it is better not to even design a house made of 300 mm aerated concrete without insulation.

Preference should be given to those materials that have good vapor permeability.

Anyone who has decided to build a house from 400 mm aerated concrete without insulation, and is wondering whether this can be done, is recommended to simply plaster the outside walls to protect the blocks from destruction under the influence of precipitation. In addition, the plaster layer will give the building a presentable appearance.

When insulating walls, take care of reliable ventilation. In addition, the performance indicators of the insulating material must coincide with similar parameters of the materials used in the construction of walls.

Conclusion

There is now only one conclusion - wall insulation is necessary. Aerated concrete walls, insulated from the outside, have their own advantages:

• the work performed does not cause any difficulties;
• the cost of the facility is reduced due to reliable thermal insulation of the walls.

To eliminate possible problems associated with the climate and the vital activity of rodents, it is recommended to insulate aerated concrete walls with mineralized wool, penoplex or polystyrene foam.

If the walls are insulated according to the rules, heating costs are minimized. Only carry out work in accordance with technological requirements, use high quality materials.

The use of aerated concrete as a material for the construction of houses is very widespread. But often the owners do not know whether it is worthwhile to insulate such a building or not. Having understood this issue, and also considered best options Insulating a home of this type will make the living conditions the most comfortable.

Why insulate a house made of aerated concrete?

To understand why aerated concrete buildings need insulation, you should first understand the features of the aerated concrete blocks themselves. Aerated concrete is a material that has a cellular structure and is made from a mixture of cement and quartz sand. Distinctive feature difference between aerated concrete and other cellular concrete is the addition of a blowing agent during production.

There are several approaches to the production of aerated concrete blocks. Typically, the constituent elements are mixed in certain proportions and then molded. When aerated concrete dries, it is cut into blocks and additionally put through autoclave processing. There is also a non-autoclave manufacturing method, but it does not produce high-strength material.

The insulation capabilities of aerated concrete blocks are relatively high. But to reduce the cost of building a house, it is better to use additional insulation. It allows you to reduce the thickness of aerated concrete walls, but does not interfere with the permeability of the structure to air. There are two methods of thermal insulation of such a building - internal and external.

External insulation: what material to choose?

It is possible to qualitatively insulate a house made of aerated concrete blocks from the outside only by choosing suitable material. It is worth paying attention to such insulation options.

1. Foam plastic and penoplex. Well known on construction market. They are separate slabs, the thickness of which is 3-5 cm. The big advantages of penoplex are the ease of working with it when carrying out thermal insulation measures, good thermal insulation and high density. Penoplex and polystyrene foam can be used to create a thermal insulation layer before finishing the siding or other cladding panels. Thermal panels can also be installed on top of this insulation.

2. Mineral wool. It is also very popular. But the problem is that mineral wool can absorb moisture. In the case of aerated concrete, this is a destructive feature. Therefore, it is not recommended to use mineral wool for houses made of aerated concrete blocks. Aerated concrete itself very easily allows air to pass through, along with steam passing through it. In such a situation, the probability of rapid destruction of the material is very high.

3. Polyurethane foam. Unlike the previously mentioned insulation materials, polyurethane foam is mortar. Special equipment is used to apply it to the surface of the walls. Polyurethane foam foams in a short period and quickly gains density. It will last for decades, but it will be expensive. Applying polyurethane foam yourself is very problematic.

Now it’s worth considering how each of these materials is installed. Then it will be clear what the essence of the insulation work is.

The simplest insulation option is to use polystyrene foam. Most often, this insulation is combined with siding or other cladding panels. First, a frame for PVC panels is installed, between the elements of which foam boards are laid. Then you can proceed to installing the siding.

It is important that there are no gaps between the foam boards. If they appear, they are filled with polyurethane foam. Another option finishing– applying plaster. It is necessary to use plaster for facade works for further painting. Then the protection of the walls of an aerated concrete house will be the highest.

Thermal insulation of aerated concrete house with penoplex

This method will not cost much more than foam insulation. But the result will be better, because penoplex is more practical. For the outcome to be truly good, the following stages of the event must be followed.

1. Preparatory work

Due to the fact that aerated concrete blocks differ smooth surface, there is no need to align them in a special way and transfer them with insulation. But sometimes defects are found on the walls. If any defects are found, they must be eliminated with glue and plaster. When insulating slopes, plastering is also carried out, since without it there is a danger of the formation of cold bridges through which heat will escape from the interior.

2. Fastening thermal insulation materials

It is possible to ensure reliable fastening of penoplex on walls made of aerated blocks if the latter are first coated with a primer. After drying, you can begin to attach the insulation. It is better to use glue with cement base. In addition to gluing, dowels with wide heads are additionally used for installing penoplex.

3. External cladding of the facade

Most often, penoplex is laid to create a thermal insulation layer under plaster or siding. The owner can determine which one finishing material more suitable for him.

Thermal insulation of aerated concrete buildings with mineral wool

When working with mineral wool, approximately the same steps are followed as in the case of laying polystyrene foam. That is, you will need to install vertical guides that will act as a frame for the siding. But it is important that the mineral wool slabs are additionally covered with a vapor barrier. After laying it, the mineral wool is fixed, which is then additionally covered with a vapor barrier film. Having completed such work, you can begin covering the facade with finishing materials.

Internal insulation of a house made of aerated concrete blocks

External insulation of aerated concrete buildings was discussed above. But there is also a method that involves thermal insulation from the inside. However, experts do not recommend resorting to this method. With this method, condensation may occur. The danger of such a negative manifestation can be reduced by choosing a more successful thermal insulation material.

Here it is necessary to proceed from the fact that in order to reduce the risk of condensation on the walls, it is necessary to reduce the vapor permeability of materials when moving from the outside of the walls to the inside. Mineral wool, as a material with very high vapor permeability, is unlikely to be suitable in this case. It is much better if the owner chooses penoplex or polyurethane foam for internal insulation.

Proper insulation is the key to comfortable living

Buildings made of aerated concrete, with all their advantages, still require additional thermal insulation. Therefore, the owner must approach such work very responsibly if he wants to receive decent living conditions. As is now clear, it is better to place heat-insulating material on the outside. Internal insulation cannot be called optimal.

Video on how to insulate a house made of aerated concrete with your own hands