Insulating an attic roof from the inside with your own hands video. Insulating the attic from the inside: possible problems and ways to solve them How to insulate the attic floor

Dimensions suburban areas and the desire of their owners to make the most of fertile layer soil persuasions to make decisions about expanding usable areas in the vertical rather than horizontal direction. It is easier and more profitable to equip an attic above the bathhouse than to attach an additional recreation room to it or build a separate house. True, this option will be acceptable only if there is more than 50% of the useful under-roof space with a height of 2.5 m, and if the ceiling above the bathhouse is designed in such a way that you can walk on its upper plane without fear. If the above prerequisites are met, insulating the attic will allow you to turn it into an excellent living space.

Let's start with the fact that the roof configuration is far from the shape of a classic cube. The insulation will have to be installed on inclined surfaces. And since we are considering insulating the attic from the inside, it is impossible not to take into account the complexity of installing soft and flexible rolled materials.
Let us remember that the vast majority of the area of the upper fence is roof structure with a rafter system. Its coating is made of extremely light materials with high waterproofing qualities, but also with considerable thermal conductivity. Wooden sheathing elements truss structure laid with gaps that do not form a thermal barrier.

Let's take into account that in attic floor There is not only a roof surface, but also at least two gables and a valley. Leaving them without insulation or poorly insulating them means reducing all efforts to zero.
Let’s not forget that roofing material that does not allow atmospheric moisture to pass through also prevents the escape of fumes that are natural for a bathhouse and not only for it.
We will ensure the safety of using living space by insulating the attic roof with materials with the environmental and hygienic characteristics required for home improvement.

Summarizing the above criteria, we will create a unique formula of the requirements that the thermal insulation system being constructed must meet. According to the tasks assigned to the insulation, we will select the material and find out everything technological nuances. For efficient work thermal insulation is necessary to:

the insulation layer completely covered internal surfaces without “gaps” in a kind of carpet, so that there are no weak points in the thermal insulation system in the form of an unprotected ridge and pediments not covered with insulator;
the insulating material, resisting the attacks of a cold atmospheric front from the outside and a warm, humid front from the inside, was protected from condensation formed as a result of their confrontation;
moisture did not accumulate on the outer surface of the heat-insulating layer, which was not allowed out by the waterproofing roofing coating, so that excess moisture was removed through the ventilation ducts;
lightweight roofing insulation was equipped with wind protection, preventing heat from blowing out of the attic on windy days;
the material is suitable in terms of technical, technological and sanitary-hygienic parameters.

The listed requirements are a detailed answer to the question “how to properly insulate an attic.” If the thermal insulation system meets all conditions, then it will serve for a long time and work efficiently.

Choosing the right insulation

From a technological point of view, slabs are best suited for creating a thermal insulation system from the inside. Using a material that holds its shape, it is easier, faster and more convenient to insulate the attic with your own hands with a minimum number of additional fixing devices. For them correct installation longitudinal bars with dimensions allowing to ensure ventilation gap. The outer plane of the bars must coincide with the outer plane of the elements rafter system, the internal plane of the heat-insulating material must coincide with the internal plane of the rafters.

Please note. If the capacity of the selected insulation is greater than the width of the rafters, an additional beam will have to be nailed or screwed to each of the elements of the rafter system. Wooden additions must be treated with an antiseptic before installation.

In any case, both with sufficient and insufficient width of the rafters, the ventilation space between the insulation and roofing material should be left.

Indicators of the thermal technical qualities of the material determine the climatic characteristics of the region. The collection of building regulations numbered 02/23/2003 will help you find them out. According to the indicator specified in SNiP, the material must be selected.

Foam plastic – budget material And convenient way insulation. Lightweight slabs will not be difficult to install; the thermal insulation system will not significantly increase the weight of the roof. However, the weak ability to conduct steam and its attractiveness as a tasty dish for mice make us think about whether it is worth insulating the attic with polystyrene foam.
Mineral wool is also a convenient and democratic option. The slabs, cut to a size a couple of centimeters larger than the gap between the rafters, are easy to install. Before installation, the insulation element must be slightly compressed and placed in the required location. Having straightened out, the elastic mineral wool will “sit” firmly in its nest. Glass wool can be used as an almost equivalent alternative.

Expanded polystyrene is usually laid on top of the rafter system, forming a ventilation gap by installing a counter batten between the insulation boards and the roofing. It is not suitable for insulating a roofing system from the inside, but can be used for insulating gables.
Polyurethane foam - easily applied to surfaces of any complexity by spraying. A contractor with a portable installation that supplies foamed insulating material under pressure can work on planes with any slope. Insulating the attic with polyurethane foam will create a monolithic layer without the slightest gaps. In addition, there will be no need for a vapor barrier layer to protect interior decoration from exposure to condensation.
Ecowool is a heat insulator from the category of sprayed materials. Its properties are similar to wood; it contains an antiseptic that prevents damage to the insulating layer and the wood in contact with it. Just like the previous analogue, it creates a continuous cover that does not sag during many years of use. To insulate with ecowool, it will be necessary to mount a suspended ceiling and install a sheathing to attach a vapor barrier material to it.
Foil materials that work not only as insulation, but also as a mirror reflector of heat tending to escape. In order for the foil heat insulator to perform its job perfectly, during installation you need to unfold it with the aluminum layer inside the room and leave a distance of 5 cm between it and the vapor barrier layer.

The list is quite sufficient to give you something to focus on, but the most popular materials for insulation from the inside are mineral wool. Spraying with polyurethane foam is popular, but not available to everyone due to the lack of equipment, which, however, can be rented for a while from a construction organization. All that remains is to figure out how to insulate the attic with your own hands and get excellent results.

What should a proper constructive pie look like?

Exaggeratedly, the thermal insulation system represents the following constructive pie, if you start listing the layers from the side of the space being developed:

Cladding made of plasterboard slabs.
Vapor barrier layer, preferably a membrane type option. It is a continuous shell created from strips of rolled material laid with a 10-centimeter overlap. The canvases are secured at horizontal and vertical joints with special adhesive tape.
A sheathing that performs three functions. The slats attached across the rafters hold the insulation, serve as the basis for fixing the vapor barrier and form a ventilation space, which is especially necessary when using foil material.
Insulation laid in one or several layers depending on the thermal effect created. When insulating the attic from the room side, it is mounted between the rafters.
A waterproofing layer that protects the insulation from getting wet, which results in a decrease in thermal properties.

Please note. Builders who thoroughly know how to insulate an attic strongly advise leaving a ventilation gap between the thermal insulation material and the waterproofing. According to technological standards, its absence is considered a grave mistake.

Another counter-lattice that creates a ventilated space between the waterproofing and the roofing material. Ventilation in this case is necessary to remove moisture accumulating on the waterproofing membrane. To remove moisture, holes are provided at the base of the slopes and in the valley area. The width of the gap for ventilation is determined by the roofing material. If the roof is covered with tiles, slate, corrugated sheeting or corrugated ondulin, it is enough to leave 25 mm, if with flat material without profile relief you need to leave 50 mm.
Windproof vapor barrier equipping the ventilation space. It is needed to retain heat in the event of active ventilation in the ventilation gap. Stacked over rafter legs, is fastened with slats, on top of which the roofing covering is mounted.

By insulating the attic with your own hands, observing all the details, the owner of a bathhouse with an attic will provide himself with a comfortable living space, eliminating the need to build summer cottage house. For arrangement mansard roof There is no need to obtain permits or seek the consent of neighbors for housing. But the benefits and economic effect are obvious.

The attic space can become a full-fledged part of the living space of the house if it is properly insulated from the inside. This will not only increase usable area, but also to reduce heat loss of the entire building.

To insulate the attic, you can invite specialists, or better yet, do it yourself, saving on the cost of work. The work technology and video are given below.

Thermal insulation materials that are suitable for insulating the attic

Mineral wool (mineral basalt wool) in the form of slabs or mats is the most suitable material for thermal insulation of attics. It is fireproof, does not harm human health, and has excellent insulating and soundproofing properties;
Polyurethane foam is a viscous self-foaming composition that is sprayed onto the roof and walls of the attic and has good performance characteristics . Reviews about this insulation are mostly positive. However, its use requires the involvement of specialists equipped with special equipment, and therefore is not suitable for independent insulation;
Foam plastic is one of the most affordable heat insulators, but for a residential attic it is not best material, as it is toxic and flammable;
Glass wool Also available material. It is fire resistant, non-toxic, and has good insulating properties. A significant drawback is the presence of glass impurities in it, which brings a lot of inconvenience during installation, so glass wool is not recommended for do-it-yourself insulation;
Ecowool– insulation consisting of cellulose and antiseptic; non-toxic and absolutely safe for humans. However, the use of ecowool requires the presence of special equipment;
Material penoplex(improved expanded polystyrene) is moisture and fire resistant, environmentally friendly, durable. Sold at affordable price. Installation of penoplex is simple and takes little time.

In addition, sometimes for insulation, it is quite profitable and practical.

Preparatory stage

How and with what to insulate an attic roof from the inside - possible options

An attic insulated in this way can become a full-fledged room in the house, performing various functions. Carrying out insulation with your own hands will not only save family budget, but will also give confidence in the quality of the work performed.

How to choose the type of insulation, install it correctly and others important stages the process of insulating the attic, you can learn from this video:

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Are you building new design or remodel the roof additional rooms, you need to take care of how to make high-quality insulation. If the roof is already covered, all work from the inside is carried out taking into account the geometry of the roof and the climatic characteristics of the region. In this material we have collected all necessary information O possible ways insulation and we will provide you with practical recommendations from professionals.

A well-insulated attic can serve as a bedroom or even a children's room

Useful information and video on how to insulate an attic for winter living

From high-quality insulation mansard roof a lot depends. If you plan to use this premises in winter period, you need to think carefully about what materials to use for thermal insulation. Another important aspect– roof structure.

The peculiarity of the under-roof space is not only in geometry; in winter it is colder here than in other rooms, and in summer it is hotter. To support optimal temperature, roofers recommend forming a multi-layer “pie” of waterproofing under the roofing, and.

Important point! When there is a lot of heat loss through the roof in winter, the snow on it begins to melt and forms an ice crust. And water, as you know, looks for any, even the most minimal, loophole. So an icy roof is bad, there is a good chance you will get a leak.

About the need for waterproofing work

All fiber insulators, one way or another, absorb moisture. It can form due to flaws in the roof covering or the formation of condensation indoors due to temperature differences. Moisture that gets into the insulation adversely affects its condition. To prevent this from happening is the task of the waterproofing layer.

Technologies modern construction involve the use of membrane materials. They prevent the formation of condensation and at the same time do not allow external moisture to pass through.

An attic space can become a comfortable office, a children's playroom or a cozy bedroom if it is properly insulated and decorated. This process is not much different from thermal insulation of rooms in the house, but still has its own nuances. High-quality insulation It’s not difficult to make attics with your own hands, the main thing is to choose the right materials and follow the instructions.

Before insulating the attic, you need to prepare it: remove everything unnecessary, clean it from dust, and seal every single crack. Particular attention is paid to the window opening, sealing the joints along the perimeter of the glass unit. Small cracks are covered with putty, large cracks are filled with pieces of foam plastic, and then sealed with cement mortar.

All wooden elements should be treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.

Insulation must be complete, therefore both the floor and walls (if any) are also checked for gaps, irregularities, and other defects. The floor beams are coated with protective compounds, and the surface of the walls is primed. The waterproofing film should be located with outside rafters, its laying is usually done during the installation of the roof. Sometimes they do without waterproofing at all: roofing good quality does not allow water to pass through and perfectly protects the rafter system from excess moisture.

Tools and materials for insulation

Thermal insulation of the attic can be done using the simplest tools:

roulette;
building level;
hammer;
drills;
screwdriver;
jigsaw.

Mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam boards, and penoplex are used as insulation. For thermal insulation of the rafter system, it is better to choose slab materials, which are more convenient to fasten between beams. But on the attic floor you can lay both slab and roll insulation. When choosing, you should take into account the vapor permeability of the material, its durability and strength.

Polystyrene foam is considered the cheapest and lightest insulation material; it is easy to cut, convenient to mount both on horizontal and on vertical surfaces. It is not afraid of moisture, but at the same time it has low vapor permeability, which can cause dampness in the attic. In addition, polystyrene foam is damaged by mice and releases toxic substances when burned.

Expanded polystyrene is stronger than polystyrene foam, less flammable and toxic, and has higher vapor permeability. It is as easy to install as polystyrene foam and is available in slabs of different thicknesses.

Mineral wool is probably the most popular insulation material for residential premises. It is valued for its environmental friendliness, non-flammability, and high thermal insulation properties. In addition, mineral wool perfectly muffles sounds, which is especially important for proper rest. When wet and severely deformed, this material loses its thermal insulation qualities, so during installation it should be handled carefully and protected from dampness.

Additionally, when insulating the attic you will need:

wooden slats;
self-tapping screws;
construction stapler;
waterproofing material;
adhesive aluminum tape or tape.

Attic insulation process

If everything is ready, you can start working. The most labor-intensive stage is insulating the roof, since it is more difficult to work with inclined surfaces. That is why they start with the roof, then insulate the walls and floor of the attic. And only after that they begin finishing. It is not recommended to finish part of the room before laying thermal insulation in adjacent areas, as this may compromise the tightness of the layers.

Stage 1. Insulation of the under-roof space

The insulation boards are cut so that their width is 3-4 cm greater than the distance between the rafter beams. Next, measure the thickness of the rafters, because the thermal insulation layer should not protrude beyond the edges of the floor beams. If the thickness of the rafters is less than the thickness of the insulation sheet, wooden slats are placed on top along the beams. If the rafters are much thicker than the slabs, the thermal insulation is laid in two layers.

The slabs are carefully inserted between the beams and aligned at the corners and joints. There should be no gaps or voids; the entire space is tightly filled with insulation.

If rolled material is used, nails are placed vertically on the beams in increments of 30 cm and a thick fishing line and cord are tied to the top nails. Having laid the edge of the insulation, they tighten it with fishing line, and continue this until the end of the run. When the entire under-roof space is covered with a thermal insulation layer, a vapor barrier can be installed.

Stage 2. Attaching the vapor barrier

Glassine, polyethylene, and sometimes roofing felt are used as vapor barriers, but the most practical option for the attic is polypropylene film with a foil coating. This material reliably protects the surface from any evaporation from inside the room, from the penetration of moisture from the outside, and also increases the thermal insulation properties of the lower layer by reflecting infrared rays.

The foil film is attached with a stapler to the rafter beams with the shiny side facing toward the attic; The film is placed on the sections with an overlap of 10 cm, and then they are glued with aluminum tape or tape. On the sides, the vapor barrier should extend 5-10 cm onto the walls, and a small allowance should also be left along the floor line. It is not recommended to stretch the film too much or leave sagging areas: the material should be evenly distributed over the surface and move away by a maximum of 2 cm.

Stage 3. Wall insulation

Depending on the type of roof, the attic walls may differ in height and location. Usually the gables of the house act as walls, but sometimes the roof does not reach the floor and vertical walls up to 1 m high are left on the sides of the attic. Since the walls are already primed when preparing the room, insulation begins with waterproofing:

V brickwork drill holes and attach them to dowels wooden blocks in increments of 40 cm;
The waterproofing membrane is fixed to the slats with staples;
slabs are inserted between the bars mineral wool.

You can insulate the walls a little differently: the surface is leveled cement plaster, prime, and then take polystyrene foam boards and glue them to the walls.

A special reinforcing mesh is attached to the glue on top, and decorative plaster. If the finishing involves covering the attic with clapboard, siding or plasterboard, load-bearing slats must be present. The insulation layer is covered with foil film, special attention paying attention to corner seams.

Stage 4. Floor insulation

The floor of the attic is also the ceiling of the house, and insulation from the attic side saves free space in living rooms. The floor can be insulated not only with slabs or roll materials, but also loose, for example, expanded clay. This method is suitable for houses with durable floors, since the expanded clay layer puts a fairly high load on the ceiling beams.

They start by laying a waterproofing film on the attic floor. The film is laid out on the surface, carefully distributed between the floor beams, and then fixed on the sides of the beams with a stapler. All overlaps are taped; Along the perimeter, the film should extend slightly onto the walls. Between the beams, foam plastic, mineral wool are tightly laid out, or a layer of expanded clay is poured. Thermal insulation should not rise above the ceilings, and voids should not be left in the corners. Now the insulation needs to be covered with a foil vapor barrier, the joints glued and boards, chipboard or plywood at least 2 cm thick on top.

Stage 5. Finishing

The edges of the film are cut with a sharp knife, and the joints are sealed with tape. Starting from the ceiling, wooden slats are placed on top of the vapor barrier film in increments of 30-40 cm, depending on the type of finish. The slats must be attached perpendicular to the supporting beams, and the sheathing, accordingly, perpendicular to the slats. In the corners between the roof and walls, 2 slats are placed side by side on each side so that the edges of the sheathing are tightly fixed to the surface. Along the perimeter of the window opening, slats are also placed for attaching the platbands.

At this point, the thermal insulation of the attic can be considered complete. If each stage was completed with all diligence, the room will remain warm even in the most severe frosts. And on hot days, a layer of insulation will keep the room cool, despite the proximity of a hot roof.