For such delicate and sophisticated flowers as lilies, planting and care are of great importance. This is especially true for the most beautiful exotic varieties. It is necessary not only to determine correct timing planting, but also choose a good place for a flower bed with lilies, plant them according to one of the schemes, keeping the required distance between the plants and optimal depth in accordance with the characteristics of the lily species.

Choosing a suitable place to plant lilies

Having lovingly selected the most beautiful varieties of lilies for your flower garden, and having waited, you suddenly realize that you have no idea at all what pattern to plant the plants in, and at what depth the lilies should be planted. If you plant flowers too deep, they will bloom late, and if you plant them too shallow, the plants may become infected with disease.

Plant flowers too deep and they will bloom late

When planning how to plant lilies so that they look harmonious in the flowerbed, be sure to consider the size, height, shape and color of the flowers. For example, tall varieties of lilies are best planted in small groups or placed in the background of flower beds. A low-growing varieties lilies with small flowers will go well with peonies, phlox and daylilies.

Video about planting lilies

A good option would be to combine roses and lilies in one bed - planting these flowers together will significantly ease your troubles with covering plants for the winter.

Choosing suitable place To plant lilies, keep in mind that these flowers need nutritious, loose soil, free from weeds and permeable to water. Most Asiatic lilies and tubular hybrids like open places, but you can also grow them in light shade, just not next to trees - there is strong shade and dry soil. Success in growing drooping lilies, orange lilies, daurian lilies, pleasant lilies, plain lilies, long-flowered lilies, dwarf lilies and Chalcedon lilies can be achieved by planting them in a sunny location. But Japanese, golden, Carniolian, curly, two-row, calloused, beautiful, magnificent and reddish lilies prefer partial shade. Knowing how to plant lilies correctly and which area is best to choose for growing, you will definitely achieve great results!

What kind of soil do lilies need?

Before plowing, along with organic fertilizers, it is also advisable to add phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen fertilizers to the soil.

Planting lilies requires thorough preparation of the soil in advance, since in one place the lily will grow without replanting for three to five years:

• add humus, peat and sand to heavy soil, just do not overdo it with organic fertilizers, otherwise the above-ground part of the lilies will quickly grow to the detriment of the formation of bulbs, the plants will be less resistant to diseases and less winter-hardy;
• add 8 kg of humus per 1 m2 to podzolic poor soils;
• in leached chernozem soils per 1 m2 - 4 kg of humus;
• Before plowing, along with organic fertilizers, it is also advisable to add phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen fertilizers to the soil.

Keep in mind that different soil acidities are required. Most varieties of lily grow well in neutral soil, however, umbrella, curly, bulbous, white, Tibetan, single-color lilies, as well as Regale and Martagon lilies, prefer soil with a slightly alkaline reaction. The following lilies can grow on acidified soils: Daurian, tiger, drooping, David, Wilmott, Maksimovich.

How to plant lilies correctly: at what depth, and according to what pattern

So, the place for planting lilies has been chosen, the soil has been prepared, now you need to decide at what depth to plant the lilies. Here you need to take into account not only the type of lily, but also the size of the bulb and the plant’s ability to form stem roots. Basically, bulbs are planted in the ground to a depth three times their diameter.

Basically, bulbs are planted in the ground to a depth three times their diameter.

Tall varieties with large flowering stems (Wilmott, Henry, curly) are planted deeper than indicated above, and even greater depth is required for lilies with stem roots. Planting lily bulbs with a rosette of ground leaves (terracotta, snow-white, Catesby) is done to a depth of two centimeters, with the expectation that the tops of the scales are located near the surface.

The depth of planting lilies also depends on the characteristics of the soil: it is better to plant the bulbs deeper in sandy light soil than in heavy soil. In general, deeper planting provides the bulbs with sufficient moisture in the summer, optimal temperature in winter, protection from frost in spring. More baby bulbs and stem roots are formed on the long underground part.

Video about growing and planting lilies

The lily planting scheme is presented in three options:

• single-line ribbon with a distance of 5-15 cm between lily bulbs in a row and 50 cm between lines;
• two-line ribbon (for medium-sized lilies) with a distance between bulbs of 15-25 cm, 25 between lines, and 70 cm between ribbons;
• three-line ribbon (for low-growing lilies) with a distance between the bulbs of 10-15 cm, maintaining the same amount between ribbons and lines as with a two-line planting.

Let's talk briefly about how to plant lilies correctly. First of all, dig holes with a scoop according to the chosen pattern to the desired depth. Prepare protective cushions in each hole from a mixture of washed river sand and ash. Plant the bulbs on sandy cushions, carefully straightening their roots and slightly pressing the bulbs into the sand. Fill the hole with soil on top, water and mulch with peat. This completes the planting of lilies.

We offer you photos of lily bulbs:

What lily seeds look like - photo:

And these photos will show what lily tubers look like:

How to grow from seeds?

Growing lilies from seeds at home is not difficult. You can buy seeds at special store or assemble it yourself in advance. The method is painstaking, but effective. He is considered the most safe– the risk of disease is minimized.

Preparation process

Collection is made exclusively only in healthy plants - brown seed pods that have not yet opened are selected. One contains up to 200 pieces. Seeds that are already ripe are oval-shaped, brown in color, and slightly oblong. Their length is 5 mm and thickness is 1 mm.

Planting is possible immediately after collection, but pre-processing cold is desirable - at a temperature of 2-4 degrees for several weeks.

How is sowing done?

The best time for him is end of March. Will bloom lily upon expiration 1.5-2 years after the first shoots emerge.

How to sow correctly?

A detailed diagram of how to grow lilies from seeds at home:

• A soil mixture is prepared - coarse sand, leaf and turf soil in equal parts and charcoal;
• drainage is placed on the bottom of the seedling box, soil is poured on top;
• seeds are sown at intervals of 1-1.5 cm and sprinkled with sand;
• careful watering is carried out;
• The box is covered with glass or film.

At the same time, the temperature is maintained at 20-25 degrees and the place for germination is chosen in a dark place.

Growing from bulbs

When purchasing them, the first thing you contact is attention on how they look.

Bulbs without damage, with good density and hardness are ideal.

Their roots should be alive, and their diameter should be at least 4 cm.

The bulbs are first placed in the refrigerator for 1-2 months for sprouts to hatch.

Next, the bottom of the container is lined with a 5 cm drainage layer - expanded clay, pebbles or broken bricks. The next layer is a soil mixture, up to 10 cm thick. The bulbs are placed with the sprouts up and sprinkled with a layer of soil 18-20 cm. The soil is moistened warm water. From it to the side the distance in height should be about 7-8 cm, so that you can add more soil after germination.

Any season of the year is suitable for planting.

Bloom will be observed after 2-3 months if proper lighting is provided. Choose a moist and warm place; watering is recommended at intervals of 4 days.

You can visually see how to grow lilies from bulbs in the video below:

How to grow from tubers?

First, they are treated with a solution of potassium permanganate and dried. Next, a place is selected - it should be partial shade. The bottom of the container is lined with pebbles or brick chips to excess moisture did not stagnate. There is no need to trim the root system. The tubers are planted in small holes and sprinkled with peat and prepared soil.

Planting depth proportional to the bulb itself - the distance from the top layer is three times greater than its height. For short species this is about 12 cm, for medium ones - up to 15, and for tall ones - within 21, taking into account the normal acidity of the soil.

Watering moderate is required. The rooting process should take place at a temperature of +5-10 degrees. It will take 3-4 months from planting to the start of flowering. When the sprout reaches a height of 10 cm, soil is poured into the container, leaving 1-2 cm to the edge. It must be loosened - the top layer is 3-4 cm for regular air intake.

Growing in a pot

In it, the lily grows up to 1.5 meters or takes the form of a compact bush. Let's look at how to grow lilies in a pot.

Breeding at home

Before growing lilies in pots, it is important to follow several steps:

• carefully selected planting material– the bulbs are taken strong, weighing from 40 grams;
• a variety of lilies is selected;
• stratification is carried out at a temperature of +5 degrees for two weeks;
• planting material is soaked in potassium permanganate for a couple of hours and in fertilizers for 12 hours.

The pot is used in accordance with agrotechnical standards.

The greater the height of the flower, the larger the container for planting. When the lily grows 1.5 meters, the walls of the pot should be at least 35-40 cm high. One seat takes up to 15 sq.cm. For a pot with a radius of 20 cm, the maximum number of tubers is 4 pieces.

Before planting in a pot is selected the required soil composition is turf soil and humus in equal proportions. Drainage is laid out at the bottom, and soil composition is placed on top. Next, the container is disinfected using boiling water with fungicides and potassium permanganate. Planting material goes deep into soil mixture and watered sparingly. When the sprouts reach a height of 10 cm, you can feed them.

Start growing indoor lilies, and they will delight you for a long time with luxurious flowering and pleasant fragrance.

Lilies are one of the most popular flowers on country flower beds, which attract attention with their delicate, colorful and abundant flowering. Moreover, they add their own note to the range of smells in the garden. As a rule, these flowers are planted in the fall, but recently spring planting of lilies in open ground has become popular. But in order to grow beautiful flowers, first you need to select and buy high-quality planting material, save it until planting permanent place in the garden, plant, and then properly care for the flower until autumn.

Popular types and varieties of lilies

As a rule, lilies, depending on their origin, are divided into the following groups of hybrids:

• Asian;
• Martagon;
• Candidum;
• American;
• Long-flowered;
• Tubular and Orleans;
• Eastern (orientals).

There are also interspecific hybrids of lilies:

• LA hybrids (Asian + long-flowered);
• OT-hybrids (orienpitas - eastern + tubular);
• LO hybrids (long-flowered + oriental);
• OA hybrids (Oriental + Asian).

Video: types, varieties and hybrids of lilies

How to choose lily bulbs

The choice of planting material should be approached with the utmost seriousness if you want to get a flower that will delight you with abundant blooms and decorate your flowerbed until the fall.

Here's what important points You need to pay attention when choosing lily bulbs:

• Optimal size the diameter of the bulb is 2-3 cm. If the bulbs are smaller, then most likely they are after forcing, which means you will not get flowering immediately, but only in the 3rd year.
• The bulb should be dense to the touch, and the scales should not fall apart. Excessive dryness and looseness are signs of poor-quality planting material.
• The specimen should not have any strange spots or signs of rot.
• The bottoms should be in good condition, without damage, and the roots should be alive, not dry or completely rotten.
• The sprout should preferably sleep. If it has already begun to stretch, then such a bulb will have to be grown at home in a pot (if purchased early) or immediately planted in open ground (if you bought it in May).
• The color of the bulb does not matter. The color is affected by the type and variety.

How to preserve lilies before planting

If you bought lily bulbs in advance, or were given them as a gift on March 8 (yes, this happens), then you should worry about the problem of preserving them before planting them in open ground.

It is optimal to store lily bulbs in the refrigerator, cellar, or basement, where the temperature fluctuates between 2-6 degrees.

During storage, be sure to periodically observe the bulbs. If suddenly they begin to germinate too early, then you need to plant them in a pot, so to speak, as seedlings. This method of germinating bulbs will be discussed in more detail below.

Video: how to plant lilies with sprouts in spring

Growing lily seedlings (preliminary early planting of bulbs in a pot)

As a rule, lily bulbs are always immediately planted in open ground, but in some cases it is still useful to germinate them at home, so to speak, by planting them as seedlings.

This method has its advantages. You will immediately see how the flower takes root and takes root, and whether it needs feeding. Plus, you will have the opportunity to know in advance where to plant the grown flower bulbs.

Before planting a lily bulb for germination in a pot, it must first be processed. To begin with, it should be thoroughly cleaned of soil and its condition assessed by its appearance. Now you need to soak the onion (only the onion, no need to immerse the sprout) in a slightly pink 1% solution of potassium permanganate at room temperature, and the water should be settled. There are different opinions about the duration of the soaking procedure: some do it for 1.5-2 hours, and others for a few minutes.

It is advisable to choose a transparent container so that it is convenient to control the humidity of the substrate. It will be good if you make drainage holes not only at the bottom, but also on the sides.

You cannot plant a lily bulb deep in a pot. When planting in open ground, it should be buried to its 3rd height; when planting in a pot, it is enough to fill the bulb right up to the tip of the sprout.

Advice! You can make multi-layer bedding for better growth of lily bulbs. Pour regular soil down, then make a cushion of river sand, on which to place the bulb itself, and cover it with the same soil on top.

After planting, it does not hurt to spill the soil on top with water or a solution (to suppress pathogens of fungal diseases). Moreover, this is necessary if you have refused to disinfect the soil by calcining it at high temperatures.

The most illuminated window sill or loggia is suitable as a place for further growing lily seedlings.

After planting lily bulbs in a pot, further care consists of regular watering as the soil dries, that is, approximately 1 watering every 5-7 days will be enough. There is no need to fertilize.

If you want to continue growing lilies in a pot at home, please note that this is still street flower, and it requires slightly different conditions, which are quite difficult to organize at home, so the probability of its death is high.

As for the timing of planting lilies that were warm on your windowsill at home and did not experience night and day temperature fluctuations, they need to be planted in the garden in a permanent place a little later than when planting bulbs directly in open ground, in other words, only after after all possible return frosts, that is, at the end of May - at the beginning of June. When the time comes, carefully remove the sprouted lily bulbs along with the soil from the pots and plant them in open ground in a flowerbed.

Video: germinating lily bulbs in pots in spring

Technology for planting lily bulbs in open ground

Optimal planting dates

The optimal time for planting lily bulbs in open ground should be selected in accordance with the climate of your region and weather conditions. In any case, you can start planting in May. By this point, the earth should have warmed up sufficiently, and the likelihood of return frosts will disappear.

According to the lunar calendar in 2019

This can help you choose the optimal date for planting bulbs. Lunar calendar.

Important! It is also recommended to plant lily bulbs in a pot (for germination at home) in accordance with the lunar calendar.

So favorable days for spring planting lily bulbs in 2019 according to the Lunar calendar are:

• in February - 15-17, 23-25;
• in March - 12-17, 22-25;
• in April - 6-8, 20-26, 29, 30;
• in May - 6-8, 14-17, 21-23, 31;
• in June - 1, 2, 9-11.

Unfavorable days according to the lunar calendar for 2019 The dates for planting lily bulbs in the spring are as follows:

• in February - 4, 5, 19;
• in March - 6, 7, 21;
• in April - 5, 19;
• in May - 5, 19;
• in June - 3, 4, 17.

According to lunar calendar from the magazine “1000 tips for a summer resident.”

Site selection and soil preparation

Depending on the variety, lilies require different levels of light to successful cultivation in the garden. Asian, trumpet and LA hybrids will grow well only in sunny places or in very light partial shade. Oriental and martagons are not a sin to plant in shady places. You can find out more about lighting requirements by reading the instructions on the packaging of the bulbs you purchased or are planning to buy.

To plant lilies, it is important to find a place in the garden that is well protected from the wind. It would be great if it was a little ventilated. If you plant flowers in a corner completely closed from blowing, this may negatively affect their development, namely: the humid air will stagnate excessively, and the bulbs will simply trample and rot.

The main requirement of lilies for the soil in which they will be planted, as for most bulbous flowers, is good drainage of the soil. For example, excessively light and sandy soil will provoke a constant lack of moisture for the growth of bulbs. For example, heavy and clay soil, will not allow it to develop normally, and the flower will rot.

To make the soil more nutritious and suitable for growing lilies, you should add peat to sandy soil, and peat and additional sand to dense and clayey ones (1 bucket of each per 1 sq.m of flowerbed).

Too much acidic soil is also not suitable, therefore, to reduce its acidity, you should use wood ash (1 cup per 1 sq.m. meter of flowerbed) and dolomite flour (2-3 cups per 1 sq.m. meter of flowerbed).

If you want the soil to become just ideally suitable and as fertile as possible, then do not skimp and add a bucket of excellent humus or rotted compost to the planting site. You can also use mineral fertilizers, for example, use potassium sulfate and superphosphate: the first will require 50 grams (3-4 tablespoons), the second - 100 grams (6-7 tablespoons).

Planting bulbs

The basic rule when planting almost all bulbs is that the depth of planting the bulb should be equal to 3 times the height of the bulb itself. If your lily bulb is 3 centimeters high, then the depth landing pit, more precisely, the hole should be 9 centimeters.

When making a planting hole for lilies, keep in mind that there must be drainage at the very bottom. You can pour expanded clay, broken brick, crushed stone or something else there. After such drainage, you should do special pillow from fertile soil (just do not place the bulb directly on the expanded clay drainage) in which the flower will grow.

The distance between planting lilies should be around 20-40 centimeters. This planting scheme will provide an opportunity for the normal development of the plant’s root system.

By the way! Before planting, you can pre-treat the lily bulb by soaking it in a solution of potassium permanganate or some fungicide for disinfection.

The process of planting a lily bulb in open ground is simple: just place the bottom of the bulb on the soft bottom of the hole, secure it a little, and then sprinkle soil on top. After planting all the bulbs, water the plantings thoroughly to ensure they take root as quickly as possible. If the soil suddenly settles after watering, do not be afraid to add additional soil.

Video: spring planting lilies

Pay attention! If you are planting a lily candidum, then the depth of its planting is slightly different. Under no circumstances should it be planted too deep, because... the leaves of the flower are laid directly above the soil surface. Therefore, the bulb should be covered with soil no more than 2-3 centimeters. More important nuance is the fact that its planting can only be carried out in spring and summer, it cannot be delayed until autumn. Otherwise, it will not have time to form special wintering leaves, the plant will not be able to overwinter normally and will die.

A slightly more complex (perhaps more promising) process of preparing a planting hole and planting lilies is proposed in the following video, which we still highly recommend watching.

Video: how to plant lilies in spring

Caring for lilies in the open ground

Further care looking after lilies in the garden is quite simple. All these plants need to bloom is regular and fairly moderate watering. Remember that these flowers do not tolerate excessive humidity. So, during the flowering period they especially need watering, but they should be watered abundantly, but not often. But in dry and hot weather Lilies need to be watered more often. When flowering ends, watering can be stopped completely.

Pay attention! You cannot water lilies using the sprinkling method. Moisture must be applied precisely to the roots, without getting on the leaves, and especially on the flowers.

It is better to fertilize lilies using mineral fertilizers, because any organic matter can cause fungal diseases. In spring, flowers respond especially well to nitrogen fertilizing, for example, ammonium nitrate or urea. It is good to use an infusion of wood ash.

Video: feeding lilies

Advice! It is advisable to tie tall varieties of lilies with thin stems to supports so that they do not break off and fall.

The main pest for lilies is the lily beetle, which damages the buds, leaving its ugly passages in them and even eating holes in the leaves. You can get rid of beetles by collecting them by hand (it is advisable to do this in the morning and in cooler weather, when they are less mobile) or by spraying flowers with insecticides such as “Inta-Ts-M”, “Korado”, “ Commander Maxi", "Senpai" and "Aktara".

Video: how to care for lilies - pest control

When you cut lilies, you don’t need to do this completely; you need to leave most of the stem. The more leaf mass you leave, the larger the bulbs you will grow. And the larger the bulbs, the more buds you will have on the branch. The cut must be made obliquely. So rainwater will quickly roll down and not get inside, otherwise it may cause rotting of the stem.

Advice! To prolong the flowering of lilies, remove the stamens from flowers in a timely manner. It is recommended to do this in the morning.

Video: tips for growing lilies from experienced gardener

Thus, now you know what to plant and grow lilies on your own summer cottage It’s not that difficult; even a novice gardener can handle it. All you need is to follow simple rules for planting and caring for it. beautiful flower. And then its abundant and bright flowering will make your garden even more beautiful.

Video: spring planting lily bulbs in open ground

How to Grow Lilies.

Growing and caring for lilies

Lily - perennial bulbous plant Liliaceae family. General features - the presence of a bulb; six-petalled flowers with 6 stamens and a three-lobed ovary; elongated leaves with parallel veins.
Only through the cooperation of nature and man do previously unseen miracle plants appear.
Now about 100 species and over 3000 varieties of lilies are known.

Site selection

Lilies need soil that is free from weeds, loose, nutritious and permeable. These flowers grow well only in fresh, clean soil. When choosing a site for lilies, pay attention to what plants were grown here before. The best predecessors will be legumes and annual flowers (petunias, violets, snapdragon), with the exception of aster. You can also grow lilies after some vegetables (radish, lettuce, cucumber, cabbage), but if onions, garlic or strawberries grew in this place, then you will have to wait 3 years.
These flowers do not tolerate stagnant water. Trumpet and most Asiatic lilies are grown on open places, but a light shadow will not harm them. But you should not plant lilies close to trees, where the soil is dry and heavily shaded.
Before choosing a site for planting lilies, decide what varieties or hybrids you are going to grow here. For example: curly lilies, Sargent and Henry lilies do not tolerate direct sunlight, they need diffused lighting, while Tubular and Orleans lilies, on the contrary, grow better in an open place.

Although most lilies still prefer light shading or exposure to the sun for only half of the day. But it is imperative to protect flowers from strong winds, and the larger and more beautiful the lily’s flowers are, the more protection they need. They will help with this ornamental shrubs, planted side by side, they can simultaneously provide shade and serve as protective fences.
What else you should pay attention to: the size of the fertile layer and the underlying horizon. The first should be powerful enough, the second permeable to water. Lilies have special roots that move the bulb in the soil. They are called contractile and have the ability to contract and retract the bulb to the desired depth. If the treated layer is too small this will not happen. The bulb will find itself in uncomfortable conditions, and achieve good results the grower will not succeed. A gradual increase in the thickness of the fertile layer is facilitated by deep digging with the introduction of a large amount of organic fertilizers. Eliminate adverse influence subsoil layer (stagnation of water leading to rotting of the bulbs) can be done using a drainage device.
Soil preparation and planting
You need to start preparing the soil in advance, taking into account that the lily is a perennial plant and will remain in one place without replanting for 3-5 years.
On heavy soils, peat, humus, and sand are added for planting bulbs. It is important to remember that excess organic fertilizer causes increased growth of the aerial part to the detriment of the formation of strong healthy bulbs, reduces winter hardiness, resistance to diseases, weakens flowering.
On poor podzolic soils, humus is added at the rate of 8-9 kg/m2, on medium leached chernozems 4-5 kg/m2. An even lower norm can be limited to nutrient-rich chernozems.
Fertilize the soil before the main preplanting treatment. During plowing or digging, mineral fertilizers are applied simultaneously with organic fertilizers, of which the most important are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. On soils of average nutritional value, about 100 g/m2 of the mixture is needed.

The place for planting lilies is prepared, of course, based on the needs of each group. Here, the mechanical composition, acidity, fertility, and moisture capacity are taken into account. Professionals believe that the “right” soil is 80% of success in growing lilies!
Different varieties of lilies vary quite a bit in their needs. For example: Asian and LA hybrids feel better in slightly acidic and neutral, humus-rich soils; Tubular hybrids need poor, slightly alkaline soil with admixtures of sand and ash; and Oriental hybrids need reliable drainage and very loose acidic soil.
A lot of species can be grown on medium loamy soil with a pH of 6.0-7.5, a large amount organic matter and moderate moisture content. Such an “average” soil will also be a good basis for various modifications for each group. But to bring the original soil to the required “standards”, you will have to work a little.
In places where stagnation of rain and melt water, do drainage. To do this, dig ditches sloping to one side, 60-70 cm deep, at the bottom of which a layer of crushed stone or broken bricks, and then sand and covered with earth on top.

It may take more than one year to improve clay and heavy loamy soils. First, liming is carried out: 300-500 g/m2, depending on the initial acidity. Lime is applied in the fall, embedded to a depth of 30-35 cm and thoroughly mixed with the soil. In the spring, a large amount of rotted organic fertilizers (8-10 kg/m) is applied and dug up again. Then the area is kept moist all summer, and only in the fall can the first, not the most capricious, lilies be planted.
Sandy soils are different from clay soils and have a good structure, but they are not water-holding enough for lilies. Water that quickly seeps through porous soil takes with it a lot of soluble nutrients needed by plants. Therefore, preparation requires increasing the ability of sandy soil to retain water. This can also be done by adding organic matter. Compost or humus is added regularly, but in small doses. Lime, if necessary, every year in small quantities.
If the soil on your site is loamy and well cultivated, then a month before planting, simply dig it to a depth of 40-60 cm and add complete mineral fertilizer up to 100 g/m2.

If the soil is completely unsuitable, then for some demanding lilies special preparation is carried out. For example, for planting Oriental hybrids: remove the top 30-centimeter layer and fill the resulting trench with a special soil mixture composed of 12 parts of bog moss - loose and lumpy, 2 parts of coarse sand and 0.5 parts of limestone or dolomite flour , with the addition of complete mineral fertilizer with microelements. All components must be thoroughly mixed and moistened. The mixture is poured to a height of 15-30 cm above ground level, and lilies are planted on the hill.

Landing

It is very important to plant correctly, which will save you from many problems in the future.
Bulbs can be planted in autumn and spring. For most lilies, early autumn plantings are preferred. Optimal time landing is September. If the autumn is warm, the bulbs have time to take root. When frost sets in early, they should be covered with insulating material.

Lilies should be planted in the spring as early as possible - at the very beginning of the emergence of seedlings, since young stems in the spring are very fragile and quickly break.
The timing of planting and replanting lilies depends on their variety. For most plants this is autumn - in middle lane August-September, in the south October-November is the time when the growing season ends for plants. Asian, Oriental, Tubular and LA hybrids can also be planted quite successfully and early spring in April-May (subject to pre-prepared soil).
For planting, bulbs with well-preserved roots and elastic scales are selected. If you purchased dried planting material, you need to soak the bulbs in water, or even better, in a 0.2% solution of foundationazole, immediately before planting. And before soaking, remove dead roots and damaged tissue.
If it is necessary to preserve the bulbs for several days, they are placed in a cool place, covered with damp moss, sawdust, sand or just soil.
The bulbs are planted so that the feeding area for each plant is approximately 20x30 cm. These figures can vary widely depending on the type, variety, growth characteristics of lilies and other reasons. For example, in group plantings, lilies are planted closer together, leaving additional space around the group.
Planting depth depends on the size of the bulb and soil type. It is 2-3 times the height of the bulb, counting from its top to the soil surface, that is, on average 15-25 cm. On light soils it is planted a little deeper, on clay soils - vice versa. The only exception is again Snow White hybrids, which do not form stem roots. Their bulbs are planted to a depth of no more than 3 cm, otherwise they will not bloom.
If soil preparation was carried out without replacing the soil, planting is carried out as follows. Dig a hole 35-50 cm deep, put humus mixed with mineral fertilizer, then a layer of soil (7-10 cm), and pour clean soil on top river sand(4-5 cm). The bulb is placed on a sandy mound, the roots are straightened and covered with earth. After planting, the soil, as usual, is watered abundantly and mulched.
Bulbs prepared for planting are inspected, diseased ones are discarded, and rotten scales are removed; cut off lifeless roots and shorten too long living roots. Then the bulbs are pickled in a solution of 0.2% fundozol or TMTD, and, if necessary, an insecticide (0.1% phosphamide, BN-58, chlorophos).
The planting depth depends on the size of the bulbs and the mechanical composition of the soil. On light sandy soils they plant deeper, on heavy clay soils - shallower.
Planted in funnels or holes to a depth 2-3 times greater than the height of the bulb, counting from the top of the bulb to the soil surface.
One of the most important conditions when planting and replanting lilies is keeping the bulbs and roots fresh, that is, preventing them from drying out. After planting, the soil is mulched with peat and humus.

Methods for propagating lilies

1. Propagation by bulbs.
This method is used most often than others, since it is the simplest and is applicable to all varieties and types of lilies.
But this method is the least productive for unpretentious, hardy and fast-growing lilies, such as Asiatic and Tubular hybrids. Due to the formation of several renewal buds by one bulb, several years after planting, a whole nest is formed in its place. Bulbs with an independent root system, obtained after dividing the nest, are transplanted to a new location in late August - early September.
Reproduction by daughter bulbs (children). Babies are formed in almost all lilies above the bulb, on the underground part of the stem. They are separated from the mother plant in the fall or early spring during transplantation or simply after raking the soil from the stem. The separated daughter bulbs are planted in a permanent place or for growing in nurseries. Children bloom in 2-4 years.

An adult mother bulb is capable of separating daughter bulbs from itself. They divide the nests and replant the bulbs after 3-4 years. During this period, a nest of 3-7 daughter bulbs with their own root system is formed around the mother bulb.
In autumn or spring, the nest is dug up, carefully separating the bulbs, and planted in a new place using the same technology as for normal planting of bulbs.

2. Reproduction by scales.
This method is the most effective, as it makes it possible to get 15-100 new plants from one bulb.
You can separate the scales from the bulbs at any time of the year, including winter, if the bulbs are dug up in advance and stored in a cool place.
This method, which produces a large amount of planting material, is suitable for all types of lilies. Based on the ability of scales separated from bulbs to form small bulbs. Best result obtained by using the outer, largest scales. Without damaging the bulb, you can remove up to half of all scales. The timing of scaling is different for different types of lilies, starting from spring - for Asian hybrids, during the flowering phase - for Tubular ones, to autumn transplant- at the Eastern. Depending on the time of year, after preliminary preparation, the scales are planted in beds, in boxes, in greenhouses, or stored as bulbs.
The scales separated from the bulb are kept for 15 minutes. in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, slightly dried and placed in plastic bags or dishes with moistened sawdust, peat at a temperature of +20 +22 0C. After 5-6 weeks, bulbs with roots form on the scales. In spring they are planted in the ground.
During the autumn separation of scales, after the formation of bulbs, they are placed for 4-6 weeks in the refrigerator at 0+5 0C, after which they are planted in boxes. In May-June, the plants are transplanted into open ground.

3. Reproduction by stem buds (bulbs).

Bulb-bearing varieties are most often found among Asian hybrids.

A number of lily varieties have the ability to form small stem soil bulbs - bulbs - in the axils of the leaves. As they ripen in August-September, they are collected and planted in the same way as children. The plantings are covered for the winter. You can plant bulbs in the spring, then they are stored all winter in tied plastic bags with peat at tO 1-3°C.
Removing the buds helps increase the bulbous capacity of lilies.
At the end of summer, the bulblets separated from the stem are planted in the ground to a depth of 2-3 cm, watered, and mulched. To form larger bulbs, buds and flowers are removed. In the third year after sowing, the plants bloom.

4. Reproduction by seeds.

This method is the most productive for species lilies and hybrids capable of setting seeds. But, as is known, plants from hybrid seeds often do not retain the decorative characteristics of their parents. Collected seeds should be sown immediately after ripening: their viability lasts only about a year. Soil mixture prepared according to the needs of the mother plant.
When grown from seeds, lilies bloom in the 3rd or 4th year.

5. Reproduction by tissue culture.

This is a laboratory method that requires sterile conditions. It is used to accelerate the propagation of lilies and free old valuable varieties from viral diseases. Allows you to obtain a large amount of healthy planting material in a short time.
Planting care
Care is keeping the soil moist, loose, free from weeds, applying fertilizing, protecting it from pests and diseases.
Lily leaves are sensitive to water getting on them, and therefore it is better to water the plants at the root.
Moderate soil moisture is necessary throughout the season. The greatest need for water occurs in the first half of summer, as well as after flowering, when the formation of bulbs begins and the accumulation of nutrient reserves for the winter.
It is advisable to apply fertilizing before or along with watering. In the first year after planting, plants develop worse and do not achieve normal growth and flowering. For better development, the buds are partially or completely removed. Weak or very strong plants that can break under their own weight are tied to a support.
In the second and third years after planting, lilies bloom profusely. As a rule, in the fourth or fifth year, growth decreases and flowering weakens. This indicates that it is time to divide and transplant the plants to a new location.
You need to start caring for lilies from the moment they are planted. Planted lilies definitely need shelter. For these purposes, sawdust, dry peat, fallen leaves, and shavings are used. Lilies should be covered for the winter only after the soil has slightly frozen, so that mice and other rodents do not find “both the table and the house” under the sawdust. And in the spring, the shelter must be removed in time, even before the sprouts appear. Also, before the shoots appear, the first spring feeding nitrogen fertilizers, for example, ammonium nitrate solution - 30 g/m2 - or urea - 20 g/m2.
First of all, the “babies” begin to grow, and then the mature bulbs. The bulbs of the Oriental and Long-flowered hybrids germinate later than all others. Young shoots are very sensitive to cold, so spring frosts can seriously damage plants, especially heat-loving ones. The spring shelter should be lighter than the winter one so as not to impede growth. This could be straw, hay, etc.
When the sprouts appear, the soil is carefully loosened so as not to damage the lagging shoots, and a second feeding is carried out with full mineral fertilizer (30-40 g/m2). Lilies respond better to frequent but dosed feeding. Try to use gradually dissolving fertilizers such as Kemira, which do not burn the roots.
As soon as warm weather arrives, you need to make sure that the top layer of soil, where many lilies have supra-bulb roots, does not dry out. Mulching material will help maintain moisture and coolness, and also prevent the growth of weeds. Protection from pests and diseases is also necessary; a separate article in our guide is devoted to this topic.
For better development of lilies in the first year after planting, as a rule, they are not allowed to bloom, removing the formed buds (the same is done for the formation of more large bulbs). But next year, during the budding phase, do not forget to do the third feeding with complete mineral fertilizer for better flowering. Last time feeding with phosphorus and potash fertilizers give immediately after flowering (15-20 g/m2 of superphosphate and potassium nitrate). Tall and weakened flowers should be carefully tied to pegs so that wind and bad weather do not break them.

The water requirements of lilies also vary. For example, Asian, Tubular and LA hybrids require moderate moisture throughout the growing season, while Eastern hybrids require more rainfall but a dry period at the end. Maintaining the desired regime is achieved through watering, which is stopped after flowering has ended. At this time, there is usually no need for additional moisture.
For oriental hybrids, in early autumn, before the onset of prolonged rains, a shelter is even specially built to dry the soil. Transparent film They are pulled onto arcs over the bed and pressed from the sides, leaving the ends free for ventilation. With the onset of the first frost, the dried soil is covered, and the film is placed on top of the shelter, not removed until spring.
After the end of the growing season, when the stems of lilies are touched by the autumn cold, they must be cut and burned in order to prevent the development of diseases, and also so that in winter the stems sticking out from under the snow do not serve as a conductor of cold to the bulb.

Common mistakes when growing lilies

1. Low-lying area for planting.
Lilies do not tolerate excess moisture. Planting in lowlands leads to diseases, rotting of the bulbs and even their death.
How to avoid this.
It is necessary to choose a site for planting where there is no stagnation of melt and rain water either in spring or autumn, or to arrange reliable drainage.

2. Application of fresh or slightly decomposed manure.
Due to the pathogenic microflora contained there, lily bulbs quickly become sick.
How to avoid this.
Use ready-made disinfected composts ("PIKSA", "Bogatyr") or leaf humus as an organic fertilizer for planting lilies.

3. Lack of watering or improper watering.
Despite the intolerance of excess moisture by most lilies, prolonged drought is also destructive for these flowers, and in dry weather lilies need watering.
How to avoid this.
Water abundantly, but infrequently. Water only at the roots: water that gets on the leaves can provoke the development of diseases.

4. Overheating of the soil.
Very harmful to lilies, especially in open spaces. Too much high temperature disrupts the flow of biological processes in the bulb.
How to avoid this.
Mulch the soil with light materials (sawdust, straw, grass clippings).

5. Concentrated fertilizing.
Lilies need feeding, but high concentrations of fertilizers have a depressing effect on their growth and development.
How to avoid this.

Apply fertilizer several times in small doses.

Plants from 20 cm to 1.5-2 m tall with linear or lanceolate leaves arranged alternately or whorled. The stem and leaves of some varieties and species are pubescent. The color of the stem varies from bright green to brownish, sometimes even with a purple tint.

There are bulbous varieties and types of lilies: in the axils of their leaves, buds (bulbs) are formed - special organs of vegetative reproduction. The flowers are solitary or from 2 to 40 flowers collected at the top of the stem in panicle-, racemose-, umbellate- or corymbose inflorescences. Flower with a simple perianth of 6 free lobes. The lobes are straight or curved backwards with a nectar-bearing gland at the base of each lobe.

There are several forms of lily flower structure: funnel-shaped (or cup-shaped), turban-shaped, tubular, goblet-shaped and bell-shaped.

The flower is given a special decorative appearance by six strongly protruding stamens with elongated, brightly colored anthers, which swing freely on long thin bases. Flower size, shape and color vary, and many flowers have a pleasant aroma.

Fetus- a box divided by partitions into 3 nests.

underground part of the plant consists of a bulb and a two-tier or single-tier root system. Each bulb is a shortened perennial shoot, consisting of a stem part, degenerated into a bulbous bottom, and leaves modified into succulent bulbous scales. A supply of nutrients is deposited in the scales during the growing season. Adventitious roots extend from the bottom. The bulb is the organ of vegetative renewal and reproduction of the plant, storing nutrients. The root system is represented by adventitious roots - bulbous, growing from the bottom of the bulb, and supra-bulbous (stem), formed by the underground part of the stem. Plants with different periods flowering, with flowers with a diameter of 2.5 to 30 cm of any color and shades, except blue. Moreover, hybrid varieties have not only outstanding decorative qualities- they are hardy and have increased resistance to diseases.

Garden classification of hybrid lilies based on general biological features and origin.

In accordance with the international classification, all hybrid lilies are grouped into 9 sections: (1) Asian hybrids; (2) Martagon hybrids; (3) Candidum hybrids; (4) American hybrids; (5) Long-flowered hybrids; (6) Tubular hybrids; (7) Oriental hybrids; (8) all other hybrids; (9) Species lilies.

Asian hybrids constitute the most numerous section of lilies, it contains the largest number modern varieties lilies.

This section brings together varieties that differ in flower shape, color, and plant height. Within the section, depending on the direction of the flower in relation to the stem, three subsections are distinguished:

* varieties with upward-pointing flowers,

* varieties with flowers pointing downwards,

* varieties with flowers directed to the sides.

According to plant height, Asian hybrids are divided into low-growing (up to 50 cm), medium-growing (up to 100 cm) and tall (100-150 cm).

This section presents turban-shaped, tubular and goblet-shaped flowers. The largest flowers, depending on the variety, reach 12 cm in diameter.

Asian hybrids are characterized by increased frost resistance when grown in open ground. The flowering time of varieties of this group of hybrids varies depending on the variety in the range from late June to early August.

Hybrids Martagon are, of course, not as extensive a section as Asian hybrids, but their varieties are no less decorative and loved by flower growers. The flowers of varieties in this section are only turban-shaped and of various colors.

Distinctive feature flowers is their mottling, that is, the presence of small spots on the petals. Flowers with a diameter of up to 7-9 cm form powerful inflorescences at the top of the peduncle; the number of flowers can reach 20-25 pieces. Plant height 130-180 cm. Flowering different varieties falls on the period from mid-June to the third decade of July.

Martagon hybrids are not particularly winter-hardy when grown in open ground and require shelter. You should especially be wary of late May frosts, when the cover has already been removed and the bulbs may freeze.

Hybrids Candidum are an even smaller section compared to even the Martagon hybrids.

Flowers of varieties in this section are only tubular in shape with the tips of the petals bent back, which gives the flower a light, elegant appearance. The flowers are large, up to 12 cm in diameter, form an inflorescence that can contain up to 8-10 flowers. Flowering of different varieties occurs from mid-June to mid-July. Bulbs should not be buried when planting.

American hybrids belong to the rhizomatous type of lilies. The varieties of this section are distinguished by their tall plants, which can reach 200 cm in height.

The flowers are predominantly turban-shaped, large, up to 10-12 cm in diameter, collected in a pyramidal inflorescence. In the inflorescence, the flowers are arranged obliquely downwards and their number can reach 15-20 pieces. Flowering time occurs in July; with the onset of cold weather, shelter is required. A section of lilies that is small in variety terms.

Long-flowered hybrids- Very tender plants and in our climate they are practically not grown in open ground.

However, in conditions closed ground Long-flowered hybrid varieties produce cuttings of the highest quality and extraordinary decorative value. Flowers of a narrowed and elongated shape are very elegant and look great as a centerpiece in various flower arrangements. This section of lilies is also called, after the French model, “Longiflo-rum” hybrids. There are few varieties represented in this section.

Tubular hybrids after Asian hybrids, they are the most extensive section in terms of the number and variety of varieties presented.

Depending on the shape of the flowers and their location on the peduncle, four subsections are distinguished within the Tubular Hybrids section:

* turban-shaped flowers (drooping),

* cup-shaped flowers,

* tubular-shaped flowers,

* flowers are star-shaped (flat) shaped.

The flowers of the varieties of tubular hybrids are large, elongated, up to 20 cm in length. Flower coloring different varieties very diverse, the color range covers the spectrum from bright red and crimson colors to delicate pastel and white tones. Flowers of most varieties have a strong, pleasant aroma. Flowers various shapes collected in an inflorescence at the top of the peduncle; in the inflorescence there can be 10-15, and in some varieties up to 20 flowers. Plants are usually tall, from 120 to 200 cm. Flowering of various varieties of tubular hybrids occurs from mid-July to mid-August. The plants are quite hardy and frost-resistant, so most varieties can be grown in open ground in climatic conditions middle lane.

Breeding, growing conditions and care

Usually lilies are grown in one place without transplantation for 3-5 years. During this time they form nests of bulbs of different ages and magnitude. If lilies in younger plantings become sick, they must be dug up and transplanted to another place, without adhering to such a long period of digging. It should also be taken into account that fast-growing lilies of Asian hybrids are replanted more often, once every 3 years, and slow-growing Martagon and Tubular hybrids are replanted less often.

The time of transplanting to a new location should coincide with the end of the growing season, when the lily bulbs get stronger after flowering, which in central Russia corresponds to the period from mid-September to early October. In everyday practical floriculture, methods of vegetative propagation of lilies are most often used.

Propagation by bulbs

Due to the formation of several renewal buds by one bulb, 3-4 years after planting in Asians and 5-6 years in Tubulars, a whole nest of bulbs is formed in its place. Daughter bulbs with independent root systems are separated and planted as independent plants in mid-August. These dates may be shifted to the end of the month or even to September. They are determined primarily by the condition of the bulbs. After the lilies bloom, the bulbs are severely depleted, lose weight, become loose, the scales become thinner, and wither. It takes 1 - 1.5 months after flowering for the bulb to gain strength - to become large, dense and elastic. This process is influenced by all factors: heat, moisture, and nutrition. At favorable conditions at the beginning of August, they begin to transplant lilies of June flowering dates (mainly Asian hybrids).

The stems of lilies should be trimmed, leaving a stump, if at the time of division they are green, without signs of disease. If the stems have died, which indicates the presence of fungal diseases, then after digging up the bulbs you should carefully unscrew them.

Nests of bulbs should be dug out without cutting the roots, then shake off the soil from them and inspect them. Nests usually fall apart, but sometimes they have to be divided with effort. This is done by hand, without the use of tools, after trimming the stems. Scales with rusty or brown spots must be removed and destroyed. The roots must be trimmed to 15 cm, and the dead ones must be cut off completely. Clean bulbs with roots are treated by pickling for 20-30 minutes in a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate. The separated bulbs are planted in previously prepared soil, which must be watered in dry weather on the eve of planting.

Dividing a nest of lily bulbs

In a lily, during the long development of the plant in one place without replanting, a nest of bulbs is formed, in which there may be several well-developed large bulbs. Such nests must be divided and the bulbs planted one at a time. This provides better food each bulb, gives it the opportunity to form a strong plant with good flowering. To do this, a nest is dug up, the stems are cut and the nest is broken with your hands, separating the bulbs; often well-ripened bulbs in the nest disintegrate on their own.

1. After dividing the nest, the bulbs are processed and planted in a new place.

2. Large bulbs with well-developed fleshy outer scales can be set aside to separate the scales for propagation.

3. There may be bulbs of different sizes in the nest, they should be sorted, the depth of their planting and the distance between plants depends on this

Low-growing lilies are planted to a depth of 10-12 cm for large bulbs and 7-8 cm for small ones, medium-sized ones - 12-15 and 8-10 cm, respectively, tall ones - 15-20 and 10-12 cm (the depth is indicated to the bottom bulbs). The holes for planting should be made 10 cm deeper, since lilies are replanted with roots that must be carefully straightened, pouring a 2-3 cm layer of clean river sand under the bottom of the bulb, and then covering it with earth. Minimum distances between the bulbs when planting for the indicated groups are respectively equal: for low-growing lilies - 15-20 cm, for medium-sized ones - 20-25 cm, for tall ones - 25-30 cm.

Planting depth of lily bulbs

1. Children, grown bulbs and bulbs developed on the scales.

2. Medium sized bulbs. 3. Large bulbs

Planting depth of lily bulbs, cm

Reproduction by children, formed on the underground part of the stem. The children are separated from the mother plant during transplantation or after raking the earth from the stem. The separation and placement of children for rearing is carried out in August.

Reproduction by bulblets. A number of so-called varieties of lilies have the ability to form small stem buds - bulbs - in the axils of the leaves. On one shoot they can develop up to 150-180 pieces. The bulbous capacity of varieties differs in the time of bulb formation (before, during and after flowering), their number, size and color (from light green to dark brown). The removal of buds and increased air humidity contribute to increased bulb production and the formation of larger bulbs. Often, the buds that have not yet been separated from the shoots develop roots, and sometimes 1-2 leaves. At the end of summer - beginning of autumn, the bulbs begin to easily separate from the stem. At this point, they need to be collected for subsequent cultivation and in order not to clog the plantings. The collected bulbs must be treated with a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate, kept in the solution for 20 minutes. Then the collected bulbs are planted for growing in grooves 2-3 cm deep with a distance between rows of 15-20 cm, between bulbs in a row - 5-6 cm.

For the winter, planting bulbs are covered on frozen soil with a layer of 10-15 cm of wood leaves, sawdust or peat. After 1-2 years, grown bulblets can be planted in the ground in a permanent place.

Reproduction by bulbous scales. This method gives large number planting material (up to 150 or more from one bulb), suitable for all types, hybrids and varieties of lilies. Based on the ability of scales separated from the bulb to form small bulbs. The timing of scaling is different for different types of lilies. The best time for a number of varieties from the group of Asian hybrids and for the royal lily (regale) is spring, for Tubular hybrids - the flowering phase.

Propagation of lilies by bulbous scales

1. Scaling is most often carried out simultaneously with bulb transplantation. The bulb should be dug up and the well-developed outer large fleshy scales should be carefully separated. You can remove up to 2/3 of the scales from a large onion, and it will continue to grow,

2. The removed scales should be washed, treated with a solution of potassium permanganate, dried and stored first in a warm, then in a cool place. Tiny onions form on the scales, which will gradually grow and develop root system, in the spring they can be planted in the soil

When lilies are scaled at the optimal time for them, young bulbs are formed earlier and in large numbers. This method can be used to propagate lilies at any time of the year. The best results are obtained when using the outer, largest and fleshiest scales for propagation. The scales should be white, healthy, without spots. To remove the scales, the bulbs are either dug up (therefore, scaling is often carried out in August, combining it with transplanting lilies), or the soil is raked away from them, but without disturbing the growth of the plants; in this way, scaling is carried out in May. Up to 1/2 or up to 2/3 of all scales are removed from the bulb. At the same time, the mother bulb continues to grow and develop normally, the quality of its flowering almost does not decrease. The removed scales are washed and treated with a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate. After this, you need to dry them, put them in a clean plastic bag, tie it and place it in dark place, where to keep for about 1.5 months at room temperature (22-24 °C). Then it is advisable to place the bags for a month in a cooler place, where the temperature does not exceed 17-18 °C. Before planting, they should be stored in the refrigerator at a temperature of 2-4 °C. During this period, bulbs form on the scales different sizes, at best - up to 1 cm in diameter. Depending on the time of year, they are planted in boxes, greenhouses, greenhouses or open ground ridges. The selection of a site for growing lilies must be done carefully. All lilies require protection from strong winds, but stagnation humid air, leading to damage to plants by gray rot, is very dangerous, so the area should not only be well protected from the winds, but also sufficiently ventilated.

Regardless of whether lilies are planted in spring or autumn, the features of the entire complex of agrotechnical measures (choice of location, soil preparation, planting, care, insulation for the winter) depend primarily on the belonging of lilies to one or another section: different groups of lilies have different requirements for growing conditions. Thus, Asian hybrids prefer slightly acidic soils and light shading, although they grow well in open sunny places. Tubular hybrids grow best on neutral and slightly alkaline soils, in open sunny areas. Lily Martagon and Oriental hybrids require placement in partial shade. Lilies need loose, permeable, nutritious soil, free from rhizomatous weeds. Clayey, waterproof and sandy low-moisture soils are not suitable for lilies. The area where you plan to plant lilies should not be flooded with water, because stagnant water can easily cause the bulbs to rot and die. Since many lilies belong to forest plants, they are suitable for fertile soils with a large humus layer, emerging from under a deciduous forest.

Since lilies are planted for a long time (Asian hybrids for 3-4 years, Tubular - for 6-8 years), soil preparation plays an important role in their culture. For digging, add (per 1 m2) up to 10 kg of humus, up to 20-50 g bone meal, 15-20 g of urea, 30-50 g of simple or 20-25 g of double superphosphate, 15-30 g of potassium sulfate. For Asian hybrids, peat is applied, for Tubular soils they are limed, adding lime under the previous crop or in the spring. The soil is tilled to a depth of 35-40 cm.

The planting depth for lilies that form only bulbous roots should not exceed 2-3 cm, counting from the top of the bulb; for those forming supra-bulb (stem) roots - 3 bulb heights. Planting depth is reduced for young bulbs, as well as on heavy soils.

Planting lilies

Lily bulbs can be planted in a basket, which will protect them from moles and voles. To do this, dig a hole large enough to place a basket in it, lay a drainage layer at least 10 cm thick on the bottom, pour soil into the basket and plant the onion in it to the depth specified by its size. After this, place the basket in the hole, fill it with soil and compact it around the basket

Insufficiently winter-hardy and more powerful Tubular hybrids are planted to a depth of 15-20 cm. When replanting, the bulbs and their roots should not be allowed to dry out, this negatively affects the survival rate, overwintering and further growth of plants. The bulbs are planted in a layer of sand (3-4 cm), poured onto the bottom of the hole, which protects the bottom of the bulbs from rotting. After planting, the soil is watered abundantly and mulched.

Ordinary planting care: weeding, watering, loosening and fertilizing. For the winter, areas with tubular hybrids and small bulbs are covered on frozen soil with a layer of 15-20 cm of mulching material. In the spring, before the shoots appear, the plants are fed with ammonium nitrate (30-40 g/m2), and after the shoots appear - with complete mineral fertilizer in a dose of 40-60 g/m2; The same fertilizing is given during budding and 1 - 2 weeks after cutting.

Due to the fact that the supra-bulb roots of lilies are located in top layer soil, its drying out and overheating negatively affect the development of plants. To avoid drying out and overheating of the supra-bulb roots, mulch the soil organic materials or peat with a layer of 3-4 cm. Water at the root, since moistening the leaves contributes to the development of gray rot. To form larger bulbs when growing for planting material, the resulting buds are removed from the plants. Lily flowers are cut early in the morning or late in the evening, and in cool, cloudy weather - at any time. For normal development of the bulb, when cutting inflorescences, at least 1/3 of the stem length is left on the plant.

Diseases and pests

The most common fungal diseases are: gray rot(Botrytis), Fusarium bulb rot, less common but most dangerous viral diseases. The most dangerous pests onion mite, onion hoverfly, and in the greenhouse - aphids.