Grout is applied to the seams of the tiles to hide small chips and nicks remaining on the edges of the facing material. Silicone and epoxy compounds protect walls from the accumulation of moisture and fungus; cement varieties improve adhesion between individual fragments. Joining begins with choice quality material, preparing a plastic solution and preparing sutures for the procedure.

Types of grout

Seams in the living room and bedroom are treated cement mixtures. They consist of a binder obtained from gypsum and clinker, colored pigments and additives that are responsible for the rapid hardening of the paste and its plasticity. Cement-based grouts are inexpensive and have a variety of color scheme, but not resistant to moisture. The compositions are rarely used to treat seams in the bathroom. A latex plasticizer is added instead of water to a solution that will regularly come into contact with various liquids and steam.

Seams in rooms with high humidity levels are grouted with epoxy products. The powders contain hardeners and pigmented resins. Epoxy grouts are expensive, but they are stain resistant and detergents, do not absorb moisture. Solutions made from pigmented resins are thick and viscous, so only professionals who have repeatedly sealed the joints between tiles can handle them.

Corner and deformed seams are treated with silicone sealants. They are not as durable as cement and epoxy mortars, but they have several advantages:

• mask defects in facing material;
• resistant to moisture;
• have antifungal properties.

Silicone sealants come in a variety of colors, but may yellow over time. The solutions are elastic, but with regular contact with food they become loose and gradually begin to crumble.

Seams up to 5 mm wide are rubbed with cement or epoxy mixtures. Large joints between tiles are sealed with compounds containing sand. The additive increases the strength of the grout, but makes the surface of the joints rough. Solutions with sand come in only two shades: gray and white.

High-quality mixtures should include:

• impregnation;
• varnishes;
• cement;
• latex.

The components ensure the elasticity and strength of the paste. Bath and kitchen grouts should contain antifungal agents.

Preparation of the solution

Beginners can buy in construction stores liquid mixtures, which do not need to be diluted with water. Just open the package and seal the joints. But ready-made formulations are expensive and have a shorter shelf life than dry powders for preparing solutions.

Typically, 250–300 ml of water is taken per 1 kg of dry mixture. Some manufacturers have proportions that differ from standard ones. Before preparing the solution, you must carefully study the instructions, which indicate the ratio of the workpiece and liquid.

The grout is mixed with water in a clean bucket or basin. If old cement or other solutions remain on the walls of the container, they will react with the grout, its elasticity and tightness will decrease.

50–60 ml of water is poured into the bucket. Add a quarter of the grout and mix the mixture with a spatula or hands. The paste is brought to homogeneity. Gradually pour in water, then pour in a new portion of powder. The prepared solution is infused for 10–15 minutes and then applied to the prepared seams.

Liquid grout cannot be stored for longer than 12–24 hours. It becomes covered with a film and becomes unusable. It is better to mix as much powder and water as needed for 1.5 square meters. m.

Preparation of seams

After removing the fixing crosses, the gaps are cleaned of remnants of tile adhesive and dirt. Scrape off the dried mortar from the edges of the facing material with a spatula or a utility knife. Instead of tools with an iron blade, a wooden stick is used. It doesn't leave nicks or scratches, but it does slow down the process.

Tile adhesive is removed not only from the edges, but also directly from the seams. A spatula with a pointed blade or a screwdriver will do. The tool should penetrate to a depth of 5–6 mm. After treatment with a spatula, the gaps are cleaned with a stiff brush or paint brush. It will remove any remaining debris and glue.

Floors and walls after removal frozen solution vacuuming. This is one of the best ways cleaning seams from construction chips, glue and dirt. Afterwards the gaps between the tiles are wiped damp cloth or a soft sponge. When they are dry, begin applying grout.

If the surface of the tile is porous, cover the edges with masking tape. Use tape 3–5 mm wide, which is glued along the seams. Porous ceramics are difficult to clean from grout residues; stains will have to be painted over special compounds. It's easier and cheaper to buy a roll of tape.

Application and compaction

The seams on the wall are rubbed down after 7 days, when the tile adhesive has completely hardened. The gaps between the tiles are moistened with water before work. The liquid is applied with a thin brush. Moisture ensures the grout adheres to the base.

The seams on the floor in the bathroom or kitchen are covered up after a day. The owners of the apartment cannot forget about the existence of these rooms for as long as 7 days. They regularly use the toilet, stove and sink, and bring dirt and debris into the room. It gets into the seams and reduces their hygiene and tightness.

The gaps between the tiles are treated with antifungal compounds before grouting. The preparations are applied after cleaning the seams from construction adhesive and dust. Leave for a day until dry. Apply grout with a rubber spatula. Additionally you will need:

• bucket of warm clean water no detergents;
• large sponge with a hard surface;
• cable, the diameter of which is 0.5 mm less than the size of the seam.

Thick paste for grouting gaps between slabs is poured into a small tray or bowl that is convenient to hold with one hand. The second one squeezes the spatula. Using a tool, scoop up a little mass and apply it to the seam. Use a rubber blade to compact the grout so that no voids form between the dried mass and the wall. The smaller the portion of paste, the easier it is to distribute it across the gap between the tiles.

Well-compacted grout is elastic and dense. Beginners will know there are no more voids when the putty knife can't penetrate the joint filled with paste. The tool will encounter resistance.

The remaining grout is removed with a spatula, which is placed perpendicular to the seam. The rubber blade moves slowly down or to the side. Excess paste is returned to the container with grout. Stains are not washed off immediately, but after 20–30 minutes.

The seams are left to dry after treatment. The paste will need 20 minutes to become pliable. Until the grout has completely hardened, the gaps between the tiles are formed and filled.

In a bucket with warm water Dip a clean sponge or rag and wring it out thoroughly. If there is a lot of liquid left in the rag, it will be absorbed into the grout. Moisture is the cause of bright spots on the seams. They stand out against the background of the paler grout and look ugly.

Use a sponge dipped in water to rub along the gap between the tiles. A hard surface will remove top layer grout, because it should be 0.2–0.3 mm lower than the edge of the tile. Use a rag to wipe off any remaining paste from the ceramic surface before it dries. After each processed seam, the sponge is dipped into a bucket and rinsed. The foam blank, on which the grout remains, washes away the dried paste and leads to deformation of the seam.

It is not necessary to fill the gaps between the tiles. The procedure is designed to form flat and smooth seams without depressions or pits. You will need a cable 15–20 cm long. Before work, wash the workpiece or wipe it with a damp cloth so that no dirty streaks or stains remain on the surface of the grout.

The cable is lightly pressed into the plastic paste with your finger and guided to the corner of the tile. The grout that has come out of the seam is removed with a damp sponge. If the mass has become lumpy, you need to run the cable through it a second time. The holes and depressions left after jointing are carefully filled with fresh grout. Prepare a small portion of thick mastic and apply it to problem areas with your fingers. Press in and leave to dry. If there is too much grout, there may be areas that are different in color from the rest.

Final processing

The mastic that has come out of the seams is swept away with a dry rag. Paste particles that have dried out are removed from the ceramic surface with a grater. The tool is shaped like a wide scraper with a rubber nozzle.

The grater moves diagonally. The wide blade is positioned perpendicular to the seam. Pieces of putty that have separated from the wall are removed from the tool by hand. Do not allow lumps of mastic to get into the gaps between facing material. They can damage the dried grout layer, and the seams will have to be re-processed.

Important: It is very difficult to remove dried paste from embossed or glossy tiles. It is recommended to remove the remaining grout immediately, before it has time to harden, and wipe the edges of the tiles with a rag or toothbrush.

The ceramic surface is cleaned of mastic residues with a damp sponge or rag. Wet grout removal is carried out 20–30 minutes after removing the paste using a grater. The glossy shine of the tiles will be restored by special solutions, which include:

• lemon juice;
• ammonia;
• table or apple cider vinegar;
• mustard powder;
• table salt;
• toothpaste;
• detergent.

One component or a cocktail of several ingredients is diluted with water. The sponge is moistened in the solution and passed along the wall. If there is a lingering trace of the grout color left on the surface of the tile, you need to wait another 10–15 minutes.

A sponge is passed over the ceramic surface, removing any remaining mastic. The foam blank is rinsed after each tile so that no streaks remain. When the old solution takes on a dirty tint, prepare a portion of a new one.

After wet cleaning, carefully inspect the seams and fill the grooves left by the sponge. Wait until the grout dries, then polish the ceramic surface with a dry soft cloth to return the tile to its former shine.

Before final drying, the mastic is covered with a layer of silicone sealant. Protective material must be used to treat seams in the bathroom and kitchen. Translucent paste prevents the appearance of fungus. The sealant is applied with a thin brush if only the seams need to be treated. The foam roller grips both the grout and the ceramic tiles.

Clean and dry facing material is polished. Spray glass and mirror cleaner onto the surface, then wipe the tiles with a soft cloth until they begin to shine.

Even a beginner can fill the gaps between facing materials with mastic. The instructions will tell you how to prepare the grout to the correct consistency. Your hands will get used to the spatula in 5–10 minutes, and after half an hour the beginner will be able to determine by eye how much paste to put in the seam. The main thing is not to be afraid of tools and follow the recommendations so that everything works out.

Video: master class on grouting floor tiles

Some forty years ago no one knew such a word as grout. The last squeak in the form of Greek or Polish tiles had to be managed to get hold of, and it was not always possible to buy tiles of the same color. It was glued (precisely glued, not laid) on the walls and floor in all imaginable and inconceivable ways. And what was added to the adhesive mixture to keep it in the chosen place! They glued it without seams, so no one needed grout.

But time and technology run forward, overtaking all ideas about beauty and practicality.

Peculiarities

Today, it is simply impossible to imagine well-laid tiles without grout. Laying technology facing tiles in our time it means that seams are made between decorative elements. Seams are called unfilled tile adhesive the space between the ends of two adjacent tiles. You need to know how to properly grout tiles.

The tile joints have a purely utilitarian purpose:

• They create a thermal gap. Everyone knows from physics courses that bodies expand when heated. With very narrow seams or no seams at all, ceramic tiles can crack in any direction, pushing out one another.
• Tile different manufacturers calibrated differently. Tile sizing is a tolerance for size deviation finished product from the dimensions declared by the manufacturer. Sometimes the calibration can be up to 1 mm. When laying such tiles of different sizes without seams or with narrow seams, it is impossible to get a more or less decent wall.

In order for the final result to have clear horizontals and verticals, poorly calibrated tiles need to be moved, centered, changing the size of the seam for each adjacent pair.

To ensure that there are no gaps between the laid wall and floor finishing elements into which water and dirt can get in, the seams are filled with a special solution called grout. Ceramic tiles, for the most part, have a slight rounding at the edges due to the peculiarities of their manufacturing technology.

The glaze that covers the ceramic is applied to only one surface. Therefore, the ends of the tile have the color of the clay from which it was made, and differ from the color of the pattern on the front side. If the seams are not worn, brown edges are visible to the naked eye and spoil the whole picture.

A common mistake made by amateurs is that they believe that imperfections in tile laying and mechanical damage in the form of small chips can be hidden using grout. Just like paint, it only highlights all the imperfections. Therefore, it is better to immediately replace defective tiles or lay them in an inconspicuous place, for example, for a bath or shower.

The composition and base of the grout varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some add special antifungal additives, others add strengthening components, others try to give the grout more elasticity, and others add water-repellent properties.

The more such consumer properties a grout mixture has, the more expensive it is.

Species

The basis for the most commonly used grouts is usually gypsum or cement; the resulting joint is opaque, uniform in composition and color. To give the tiled surface an aesthetic appearance, the grout is tinted (coloring pigments are added) various colors. But in special cases with such a composition it is impossible to achieve desired result.

To obtain a transparent or translucent seam, epoxy resin-based compounds are used, which can be tinted in various colors or various fillers can be added. Fillers can be finely ground silver or gold powder and small beads, as well as small holographic sparkles, as for decorating nails.

The strength of such grout will be no less than that of the tile itself, and dirt will not eat into the seams.

Another type of grout is based on the use of furan resin. Its peculiarity is its exceptionally deep black color. In gypsum or cement based grouts, the most dark color– anthracite, black with a gray tint. This is due to the characteristics of the base materials, which no one has yet been able to color correctly.

Today, as a grout in places of high load and humidity, they are increasingly using painted different colors silicone based sealants.

Classic material Grouting of joints was and remains tile adhesive on clinker. The seam is strong, its width does not matter, the color is only gray.

Grout is sold in any construction supermarket both in ready-to-use form and in the form of a mixture for preparing mortar for clinker tiles. This is an equivalent replacement.

How to divorce?

Those who make repairs with their own hands should memorize the rule for preparing solutions from dry mixtures: the mixture is added to water, and not water to the mixture. But grouts are an exception to this rule. Since the peculiarities of their composition are such that they take a little water, to obtain a solution of the desired consistency, water is added to the dry powder.

Water used for cooking any mortar, in no case should it be warm or hot, otherwise the mixture will immediately turn into a frozen, shapeless lump with which nothing can be done. It is necessary first of all to correctly calculate the proportions.

Manufacturers, as a rule, indicate on the packaging the recommended amount of water per 100 g or 1 kg of dry mixture. But this figure is not mandatory. The thickness of the solution depends on the result that you want to achieve in the end. For the standard grouting method, the solution should be as thick as homemade sour cream or tomato paste. If during mixing part of the mixture remains dry, add water in very small portions until the solution reaches the desired thickness.

If, on the contrary, the mixture turns out to be very liquid, similar to kefir, you can gradually add dry grout, again in small portions. And mix well so that there are no lumps.

Some additives make grout mixtures very non-hygroscopic, and the particles of the mixture do not want to get wet. Such compositions must be mixed thoroughly and for quite a long time until a thick, homogeneous mass is obtained.

The shelf life of diluted grout is short, at most half an hour to an hour. After this time, the solution begins to harden, clump, loses its plasticity, and it is no longer possible to work with it. Therefore, it is most preferable to dilute the grout in small portions. If the composition begins to thicken during operation, you can add a small amount of water to it and stir well.

If you prepare a lot of grout, it is very difficult to use it all without losing quality. Preparing a large amount of mixture at once is logical only if several people are working on grouting joints at once, each of whom performs a certain stage.

The most suitable container for diluting grout is a rubber or flexible polymer cup with a volume of 300 to 500 ml. The flexibility is due to the fact that when the mixture hardens it becomes very hard and it is almost impossible to scrape it off hard dishes. When twisting a soft cup, the hardened grout “snaps off” from the walls and is knocked out with a slight tap. If you try to knock on a hard container, the cup is more likely to crack than the grout to come off the walls.

In the case of using a ready-made grout mixture, the manufacturer did everything for us. It can be used directly from the bucket. Just remember to close the lid tightly so that unused grout does not dry out. After 12-24 hours outdoors the finished mixture is first covered with a film, and then turns into a solid substance unsuitable for grouting.

Tools

Before you start grouting, you need to prepare a bucket of clean cool water, latex or vinyl gloves and several thick sponges (like dishwashing sponges) with fine pores, as well as two absorbent cloth wipes. A stepladder is required for ease of work. To directly fill the joints with grout, you need a flexible polyurethane spatula 5-10 cm wide and a container with the finished solution.

If the skills for applying grout have not been developed, it is better to take a tool small size. It’s also a good idea to have a painting knife on hand to partially correct the seam. To form an aesthetic seam, you need a round ebonite stick of small diameter - 3-5 mm.

In special cases, you may need masking tape with good adhesion. You can choose a device such as a special machine for filling seams. This will make your work much easier and you will complete it faster.

How to apply?

Be sure to use gloves, so you can seal the seams without worrying about the condition of your hands. The composition of the grout is quite aggressive. Without protecting your hand skin, you risk contact dermatitis.

To ensure that the seams are neat, without any foreign inclusions or color deviations due to tile adhesive not removed from the ends, they must be cleaned before starting work. Experienced craftsmen wash the seams with a generously wet sponge directly during the process of laying the tiles. They do this because it is much more difficult to renew dried tile adhesive. But if it happens that dried glue still remains in the seams, it can be cleaned out using a small spatula or a painting knife. This operation must be carried out carefully, since mechanical stress can damage the glaze of the ceramic product. You will end up with chips that are very difficult to repair.

After cleaning the seams, it is preferable to wash them with a damp sponge and joint them.

You need to cover the seams as quickly as possible, apply the solution with confident movements and repair all the chips. You can also darken the seam or repaint it. You can change the color by adding special paints.

There are several ways to get beautiful and even seams using grout.

Gypsum or cement based

In any case, you can grout the seams only after the tile adhesive has lost its mobility and the tile is clearly fixed in its intended place. For floors, this moment is determined by the period when it will be possible to walk on the tiles without pushing the tiles under the weight of your own body.

The composition is applied to a clean seam in a direction transverse to it with little effort, in continuous strokes along its entire length. The remaining grout is removed from the tiles with the same spatula, running it along the seam. The seam becomes even. Excess grout is sent back to the container with the finished composition. Visually, you can immediately assess the full filling of the joint with grout. If somewhere there is a gap (hole) or insufficient amount of grout, it is advisable to correct these defects without waiting for the seam to harden. Fill the seams on the entire wall in the same way. Then they return to the place where they started and clean the grout.

Cleaning the grout with this method of applying it has the goal of making all the seams equally even and smooth. This operation is performed using a round ebonite stick. If you don’t have such a tool, you can use a round pencil or an oval lighter. By running a stick along the seam with slight pressure over the grout that has begun to harden, remove all excess from the seam and form it into a slightly concave shape. smooth surface. The seams are slightly recessed and even along the entire length.

After forming the seam, wipe the tiles first with a slightly damp and then with a dry cloth. Here it is very important to begin the process of forming a beautiful seam before the moment when the grout begins to gain strength.

In another case, the composition is applied in the same way, only the seam is formed immediately using a damp sponge or finger, applying a sufficiently damp sponge with slight pressure. With this method, you won’t have to return to an already worn-out area. In addition, the tiles are washed directly during the grouting process. After drying, it will be enough to wipe the surface with a dry cloth.

The finished composition is placed in a grouting bag with a nozzle of the size required for the seam. Either vertical or horizontal seams are filled first. When squeezing out the mixture, you need to carefully ensure that it fills the seam completely, without gaps. Since any mixtures diluted with water have the property of shrinking, that is, reducing the volume when drying and evaporating moisture from them, you need to apply grout in a slightly larger quantity than it seems immediately at the moment of grouting the seam.

Sealant

Sealants are produced in tubes and cylinders for special guns. For rubbing seams, the second option is used. The sealed tip of the cylinder is cut off with a sharp knife, after which the conical nozzle supplied with the sealant is screwed onto it. The cylinder is inserted into the gun, the tip of the conical nozzle is cut off to obtain the required seam width. The sealant is squeezed exactly into the seam. Leveling it can be done with a wet finger or sponge. Excess sealant from the surface of the tile should be immediately washed off with a damp sponge and wiped dry with a cloth napkin.

Resin based

The composition usually has a two-component structure, consisting of the resin itself and the hardener. To obtain a more homogeneous mass without air bubbles, before mixing the resin must be heated in a water bath to a temperature of about 50-60 degrees. Add hardener, tinting paste if required, and selected design filler. Try to apply the mixture directly into the seam. You can use a cooking bag with a nozzle or buy a special grout bag. It is most convenient to level the seams with a bendable plastic spatula.

If the grout gets on the surface of the tile, immediately wipe the stained area dry, then rinse with a damp sponge and wipe dry again.

When grouting joints on tiles that have a textured surface rather than a smooth one, the mixture from the front surface of the tile must be immediately washed off with copious amounts of water. Otherwise, it will be extremely difficult to bring it into decent shape. When hardening, grout that has become embedded in small depressions in the relief is very difficult to clean. You could ruin your whole job.

If the tiles “do not fit,” then the seams are of different widths along one row - vertical or horizontal. In this case, after filling the seams as standard, you can use this trick: stick masking tape on both sides to a dry and clean tile along the entire length of the seam that needs to be corrected. The width of the seam is chosen based on the widest one. The grout is diluted a little more liquid than for filling joints.

Carefully apply the mixture to the seam being formed, immediately smoothing it out and eliminating defects. The tape is removed without waiting for the mixture to harden. Otherwise, the grout will begin to crumble along the edges of the seam and the edge of the seam will become jagged instead of straight. Masking tape can also be used when grouting tiles with small relief to protect the edge of the front surface from getting the grout mixture on it. In this case, you won’t have to spend a lot of time washing. The same applies to finishing materials with a porous structure. You simply can’t do without adhesive tape here.

After grouting all the vertical and horizontal seams, do not forget to fill with the mixture all the technological cutouts on the tiles near the heated towel rail, outlets for hot and cold water, taps for connection washing machine and so on.

When filling joints on tiles with straight (unsmoothed) ends, the joints must be made without recess. That is, the seam and the front surface of the tile must form a single surface. Otherwise lateral surface brown will be visible from under the grout and ruin the whole impression.

The final stage of laying tiles is grouting. In this article we will talk about how to make grout, what role it plays and what is needed for this work.

Why is grout needed?

The joints between the tiles are the spaces at the junctions of different fragments. Their width can vary from 2 to 5 mm. The width of the seam is determined by the width of the tile; the larger it is, the wider the seam.

The resulting space is filled with special grout. There are several reasons for this:

1. The wall will breathe through these seams.
2. It improves the quality of tile adhesion.
3. Protects the layer of tile adhesive from the negative effects of moisture.
4. Due to the dampness, the likelihood of dampness and mold formation is eliminated.
5. Performs a decorative role. You can choose grout in different colors, for example, to match the cladding or as a contrast.

The quality of the composition affects the final result.

Choice of grout

When choosing, the following factors must be taken into account:


Color. The chosen color affects the final result, whether it will be beautiful or not. You can highlight individual elements or emphasize a certain pattern; the grout can be contrasting. If you want to create a monolithic picture, the color of the grout should match the tile. There are no restrictions in this matter, it all depends on personal preference and vision of the final result.

Properties and composition. This is another one important point, to which attention is drawn. The composition may contain different components, for example, epoxy resin, Portland cement, alabaster, gypsum, etc. The composition depends on the purpose of the grout.

If grouting tiles is done in a very damp room, the grout should be water-repellent. If we are talking about floor cladding, then the mixture must be resistant to abrasion and contain the appropriate components.

Purpose. Be sure to make an individual choice for floor and wall tiles. Wall mixture is not suitable for the floor, since under heavy load it will quickly wear out and will need updating. The floor requires a tenacious mixture.

Cooking rules

Choosing the right mixture for grout joints, let's look at the basic rules for its preparation. An easy way to avoid mistakes is to follow the instructions on the package.

The manufacturer indicates the proportions in which the dry mixture should be mixed with water. If you bought ready solution, then it does not need cooking, except that you should just stir it.

If the proportions are not observed when mixing the dry mixture, the mass may turn out to be too liquid. As a result, it will flow out of the joint. If it is too thick, it is unlikely that you will be able to make a high-quality grout.

Important! Failure to comply with the proportions leads to a decrease in the quality and strength of the grout.

In most cases, there is about 300 ml of water per 1 kg of dry mixture. The liquid should be at room temperature. With these proportions, the mixture will have the consistency of sour cream. This mixture is easy to work with. You won't need to put in much effort.

Sequence of actions

The entire work process consists of several successive stages:

1. Preparation of the mixture.
2. Distribution of grout into the tile joint.
3. Cleaning seams from excess.

For work, prepare the following set of items:

• Safety glasses.
• Grout.
• Respirator (in case of mixing cement mixture).
• Container for clean water.
• Clean cloth and sponge.
• Mixing container.
• Rubber spatula.
• Gloves.
• Brush.
• Rectangular trowel.

If the grout is diluted, place a small portion on the surface of the tile with a rubber spatula. To evenly distribute the mortar into the seams, use a rectangular trowel or a regular rubber spatula.

The correct sequence of actions when grouting tiles - expert advice

Hold the spatula at an angle of 30° and distribute the grout diagonally between the seams. Go over the surface of the tile with a spatula three times.

The mixture should fill the existing cladding joints well. The higher the density, the better. If installed on the corners decorative corner, then grout is also placed in the existing cracks.

Please note

The grout is distributed gradually over the entire area. First fill the joints in an area of ​​2 m2 and gradually move forward.

Don't make a big batch right away. The mixture may set, especially if you are not yet skilled at this work. During this work, spaces near sockets, heated towel rail mounts and other plumbing elements must be filled.

Grouting using a special bag

Many people decide to simplify their task and use a special grout bag. The principle of its operation resembles piping bag. A tip is attached to the end of the bag. The width of the tip should match the gap between the tiles.

After this, the grouting mass is prepared and poured into the bag. Next, through the hole, the mixture is squeezed directly into the joint between the tiles.

Before doing this, point the tip directly to the joint. As you squeeze out the grout, move the bag until the seam is completely filled.

First, fill the horizontal seams, and then vertically. It is necessary to squeeze out the solution in larger portions than may seem necessary. The composition will still be compacted.

There shouldn't be any problems when working on the wall. The essence of working with tile joints on the floor is almost the same. We will look at several nuances.

Simplification of work is achieved by using a construction float, which has a rubber pad. At arm's length, spread the grout with sweeping movements.

To achieve the desired result, the mixture should be slightly thinner. This method is only possible when laying smooth tiles. If the surface is textured and has protrusions, then the mixture will fill all the pores. Afterwards you will have to spend a lot of time cleaning the tiles.

Important! When it comes to processing floor tiles, be sure to choose those compounds that are resistant to possible stress.

How to deal with cracking

One common problem is cracking of the seams between tiles. Most often, this problem is characteristic of cement-based compositions.

There can be many reasons for this, for example:

• Sudden changes in temperature.
• Exposure to hot water.
• Floating wooden floor.
• Incorrect mixing when grouting.

If a crack is discovered, it should be repaired immediately. Water can have a negative effect on tile adhesive and substrate. This may cause mold to form.

There are several ways to get rid of cracks. For example, completely unstitch the seams and refill them with a new mixture. If the cracks are in the initial stages, then take the dry mixture and thoroughly rub it into the seams.

It is more effective to prevent this problem. The preparation of the mixture must be in accordance with existing proportions. The solution should have medium viscosity. After kneading, let the mixture sit for up to 5 minutes, and then re-mix and work with it.

Please note

During the drying process, it is unacceptable to ventilate the room or turn on the heating for quick drying. The grout should dry in the most natural temperature environment possible.

Conclusion
So, here we are, learning how to grout tile joints. We looked at the technology of this process and how to implement everything correctly. We hope this material was useful to you. In conclusion, we suggest watching a master class on grouting clinker floor tiles:

The very first thing is to ensure moisture resistance of the entire plane. After all, tiles are used to lay the surface in rooms where there is constant high humidity or water flows frequently. Therefore, splashes, fumes, etc. What if floor tiles, then the floors are constantly washed. Therefore, water will get under the tile covering.

Secondly, there are no tiles that are perfectly square or have right angles, so there will be gaps at the joints in any case.

Third, the tiles cannot be laid “very close” one to one. There is such a thing as temperature increase. Dense laying leads to deformation of the plane and, as a consequence, “swelling” of the entire “masonry”.

What kind of grout should I use?

First of all, it is necessary to keep in mind the difference between sealant and sealant (grout). Specific grout is used for seams. There are several types of it, and the difference is in the base: it is either cement (with additives) or epoxy. In everyday life, it is better to use cement-based grout. They are easier to work with and cheaper.

How to prepare grout

Be sure to use the manufacturer's recommendation. Various composition requires your own know-how. It is better to purchase the composition in dry form, it is much cheaper. You need to naturally find out what to dilute with: water or latex (liquid). Dry polymer compositions Mix only with water!

There should not be a lot of water in the grout, otherwise the quality of the entire work will suffer. Grout is added to water, and not vice versa. The resulting composition must be plastic and very easily distributed over the plane.

Stages of work:

1. Preparing grout. In addition to what has already been established, you need to know that kneading must be done carefully, not allowing air bubbles to get inside. It will only weaken the effect of the solution;
2. Laying out the solution. Using a spatula, the solution is practically pressed into the seam, evenly distributed along the entire length. The hand makes diagonal movements. The task is to fill the inherent vacuums to the maximum. It is more comfortable to work on small area, and not all over the wall at once;
3. Wet cleaning of the plane. This is done after the mixture has sufficiently hardened;
4. Leveling and smoothing seams. It is made using precisely manufactured jointing.

If there is a strong desire to obtain an imitation of outdated masonry, additional work is carried out.

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The success of tiling a bathroom with your own hands depends on the quality of each stage of finishing, including grouting the tile joints. If the finishing of well-maintained gaps between perfectly laid tiles is done incorrectly, then the aesthetics of the final result of the finishing work, even if done with exclusive ceramics, will be in question.

Grouting is very important stage work, without which the finishing of walls and floors with ceramic tiles cannot be considered complete

Therefore, let’s look at how to grout joints correctly. tiles so that the result of this operation matches technical requirements requirements for the cladding of a given base, and the overall level of aesthetics of the finished finishing. To do this, we list and consider the factors on which the quality of grouting joints depends, as well as how to perform this simple but important stage of finishing work on laying ceramics with your own hands:

Technologies for filling joints with mixtures:

• cement based:
• based on epoxy resins:
• from furan resins;
• grout-sealants.

Preparing seams for grouting

Grout mixtures should be applied to the bathroom lining only after cleaning the seams. This operation is mandatory under any circumstances and requirements for the surface to be finished.

Even if the room is not a bathroom, but dry, with non-aggressive use of surfaces, a seam with a protruding lump of tile adhesive is unacceptable. Therefore, after removing the crosses that fix the gap, the seams between the tiles are cleaned of tile adhesive with a narrow spatula or screwdriver to a depth of at least 5 mm, and then crumbles of small debris are swept out of the joints with a hard paint brush.

On the bathroom floor, based on the increased requirements for the tightness of the base, it is more convenient to do this with a vacuum cleaner, and on the walls such cleaning will only be beneficial.

If the tile is porous, for example, unglazed clinker, then you should glue it evenly along the seams with your own hands. masking tape 3-5 cm wide, which will protect the bathroom ceramics from dirt that is difficult to remove from such a surface. If this is not done, traces of dirt will subsequently need to be covered with paint that matches the tile.

Technology for filling joints with mixtures

The question of how to grout joints on tiles cannot be considered separately from what mixture to use. From the right choice grouting depends on the success of the finish; in addition, the tool for filling joints is selected taking into account the characteristics of the selected glue in order to cover the joints efficiently and quickly. Therefore, we will consider technologies for filling gaps between ceramic tiles of floors and walls various types grout mixture and the tool used for this.

The joints between the tiles are filled with the mixture prepared according to the instructions using a rubber spatula. Spatulas with an elastic part of black color (rubber) are more rigid, white (rubber) are soft.

The use of grout based on a cement-sand mixture when filling joints of glazed tiles is undesirable, since the sand will leave an abrasive mark on the glossy surface of the ceramic.

In addition, these compounds are used to fill gaps wider than 5 mm, and are therefore unsuitable for the bathroom, where such joint widths are not used to ensure the tightness of the floor and wall cladding.

Hardener or latex is added to cement grouts

It is necessary to choose the right color of the grout mixture so that the seam, depending on the artistic design of the bathroom, effectively contrasts with the tiles or, conversely, blends in with its colors.

The grout should be applied to the floor and walls of the bathroom in portions along the joint, after which, using a spatula movements perpendicular to the seam, the gap is filled to the full depth. The complete filling of the gap is indicated by its convex surface after running a spatula across it.

During grouting, periodically, every 15-20 minutes, remove excess glue with damp foam rubber or a rag. After a day, the ceramic-lined surface is wiped clean with a clean damp rag, the tile is allowed to dry, and then it is polished with a dry flannel with your own hands.

Grouting tiles with epoxy-based compounds

Prepare the grout mixture yourself according to the instructions on the package, strictly observing the proportions of the main mass and hardener. The amount prepared at one time should be used quickly, within 5-10 minutes (the exact pot life is indicated on the packaging). It is better to lay the epoxy-based mixture into the seam using a homemade “syringe”, which can easily be made from a thick plastic bag by cutting off one corner of it.

The prepared portion of grout is transferred to a bag, the cut corner is inserted into the seam and, pressing on the “syringe”, guide it along the joint, ensuring that the groove is completely filled.

After emptying the bag, excess glue from the finish is quickly removed with a spatula, and then residual dirt is completely removed from the tile with a rag containing solvent.

Furan grout compounds

Furan grouts, due to their main component - furan resin, are black in color, therefore they are mainly used for filling tile joints in industrial premises. However, technical specifications This composition is high, and its black color will fit quite harmoniously into the lining of the floor or bathroom walls made of cherry or rich green tiles.

The technology for filling joints with furan grout yourself is similar to working with epoxy mixtures.

Such compounds are designed to fill gaps between ceramic cladding and bathtub, sink, as well as joints between tiles and laminate flooring.

Coating the grout with a sealer helps prevent staining of the grout and protects it from water damage.

Some varieties of these sealants, e.g. silicone sealant"For aquariums", in most cases with correct selection colors will fully cope with the task of aesthetically, hermetic and durable filling of joints, but the use of this expensive material for other purposes is not justified when there are many grouting compounds with high performance characteristics on sale. affordable price.

Conclusion

In most cases, for craftsmen who have the skills to lay tiles with their own hands, rubbing the cladding seam is not difficult. The only exception is the use of compositions based on epoxy resins, where the condition for success is the ability to quickly apply the mixture to joints, which causes difficulty for beginners.

Knowledge of the described technologies will not only help beginners do the finishing on their own, but will also allow homeowners who are not experienced in finishing works, control the quality of finishing performed by hired workers.