Quite often a furniture panel is required for work - this wood material, used for the production of furniture or decorative elements, usually glued together from a set of rectangular blanks, and these blanks are glued together at their ends so that the panel is a flat, area-like material. There are a lot of options for assembling shields - this includes simple end gluing and assembly on various dowels and dovetail. In this article we will talk about the manufacture of a not quite ordinary shield, or rather, about its further processing.

Tools and material for assembling furniture panels

To work we will need the following set of tools:

• Grinder with a saw blade and a device for cutting grooves;
• Sander (belt or eccentric);
• Miter saw;
• Hand tools: Clamps, plane, pencil, etc.

Material

• Solid wood (for example, pine);
• Wood glue.

Shield manufacturing technology

Let's divide all our work into two main stages:

• Shield assembly
• Shield processing.

Shield assembly

In fact, at this stage everything is quite standard and there is probably nothing particularly fundamentally new here, but, nevertheless, let’s go over the standard technology one more time.

1. We dissolve the array into blanks

The standard and simplest procedure is to cut into pieces of the required size.

2. Level the height of the workpieces

We pass our workpieces through to level their height and make the surfaces as parallel as possible.

3. Planing the ends

4. Marking the studs

5. Cut the grooves for the tenons

6. Gluing the shield

And, as always, we need to tighten our entire structure very well with clamps to ensure minimum clearances and tight fit of gluing planes. It is also important to pay attention to the fact that at the moment of fixation the shield does not move or bend in an arc. To do this, we fix it with many clamps in different planes.

Giving relief to the shield

1. Primary processing of the shield

2. Preparing the circular

And now the fun begins - let’s start sawing across. To do this, you need to make a parallel (even perpendicular!) stop that will go not along the saw blade, but across it. Since such an element, of course, is not provided for in standard configurations, we will therefore make it ourselves from a simple board pressed with clamps to the saw table.

4. Making the relief of the shield

Now you gradually need to start grinding down the outer part of the board, moving the workpiece across the saw blade. Each time you increase the reach of the saw blade, the volume of wood removed will correspondingly increase, forming the relief. This operation must be carried out sequentially on each side of the workpiece to ensure uniform removal of volumes. Below are several photos from different angles to make everything completely clear.

Shield surface treatment

Then we cover the surface chemical composition– these can be varnishes (glossy or matte), impregnations, tinting stains, etc. – the choice of impregnating composition is a topic for a separate article.

The relief furniture panel is ready.

Video

Below we attach the video on which this material was made.

It is believed that without a professional tool, high-quality wood cutting or sheet materials do not execute. Today we will talk about ways to make a clean, even cut without chips, on your own and without using expensive equipment and consumables.

Cutting tools and the mechanics of their work

If you do not take into account stationary sawing machines, alternatives for self made not much. From available tools You can offer circular and pendulum saws, commonly referred to as miter saws and jigsaws. It is also possible to perform a fairly high-quality cut using an angle grinder, on which a wood saw blade with pobedite teeth is installed. But this is not the most effective and, moreover, far from safe option.

In the process of cutting with any type of power tool, the working parts move at a very high speed, and therefore the mechanics of processing remain behind the scenes. However, understanding it is the key to getting a clean, chip-free edge. The simplest principle underlies the operation of pendulum saws. The cut is carried out with direct movement of the saw blade, and the size of the removed fragments completely depends on the size of the tooth and its setting.

Chips appear due to the heterogeneity of the processed material, in particular due to the hard crust of laminated sheet materials or because the fibers of solid wood have different densities. Chips can form on different sides of the product depending on the shape of the tooth, the feed force and the speed of movement of the working element. When working with a jigsaw, the appearance of chips is caused either by the fact that the teeth tear out large fragments from the underside, or by pushing through the top layer, during which it is not cut off, but breaks out in large fragments.

Working teeth circular disk in many ways similar to a jigsaw, with the only exception that their movement is directed strictly in one direction, and they move at a very high speed. Also a significant factor is the direction (angle) of the applied force: if the jigsaw blade moves strictly perpendicular to the surface, then the circular saw cuts at an arbitrary angle, depending on both the diameter of the disk and the thickness of the part. This can work to your advantage: the oblique immersion of the tooth contributes to more accurate cutting of chips, but with reverse side Due to the tangential movement of the cutting edges, quite large fragments can be torn out. Of course, you can only make a straight cut with a circular saw.

Selection of saw blades and blades

When cutting, cleanliness and processing speed are inversely dependent quantities. It is worth noting that chips on the cut will appear in any case, so the main task is to reduce their size to such a value that they can be easily eliminated by subsequent processing. The smaller the size of the tooth and the closer to right angle, under which cutting edge touches the surface of the material. When choosing a circular saw blade, these are the two most important factors out of three.

The third can be called the setting value - the displacement of adjacent teeth, which can be easily determined by applying a ruler to them. To ensure a clean cut, the routing should be minimal, but do not forget that in this case, when trying to cut a thick board or sheet of plywood, the disk may simply jam or the end will burn from strong friction.

Jigsaw blades are more varied. For cutting without chipping, a series of clean-cutting saws are used, for example, BOSCH has a line of blades called CleanWood. Their main difference is their small size and lack of pronounced directionality of the teeth. They usually have the shape of an isosceles triangle and cut in both directions of movement.

Also, saws for clean cutting are distinguished by the almost complete absence of setting and the opposite direction of sharpening of adjacent teeth. In order to ensure the possibility of a figured cut with a small setting, the files have a very small width, which is why they become quite fragile.

For finishing cutting of sheet materials, blades designed to work with metal products. These files have the smallest tooth size known, so the cut is performed slowly, but with the highest quality. Due to the significant width of metal blades, finishing figured cut can only be carried out with a significant bending radius, on average about 60-80 cm.

Please also note that dull teeth, which is typical for low-quality saw blades with a “mileage” of 3-5 meters, also leads to the formation of chips. Therefore, do not skimp when purchasing consumables if the quality of processing is really important to you.

Zero gap technique

The principle of finishing the sole is most often used by carpentry craftsmen. cutting tool, which consists in reducing the gap between the working body and the pressure platform. This is almost guaranteed to eliminate the effect of “breaking” the crust in the top layer of the material.

Zero clearance is achieved by securing the cover plate to the tool base. The pad has only one narrow hole (or slot) that fits tightly to the cutting organ. Because of this, even with a high feed force, the teeth are guaranteed to cut off small chips and not turn out the chips in the upper layer of the part.

When using overlays, it is extremely important that they do not scratch or damage the surface of the part. Therefore, they are most often made from a material that is inferior in hardness to the material being processed, for example MDF or plasterboard. Unfortunately, such an overlay does not last long, which is why it has to be changed every 4-5 meters of the cut.

More durable linings can be made from sheet plastic (PVC, fluoroplastic), fiberglass or metal. In the latter case, the surface of the lining must be carefully polished and soft metals such as aluminum or duralumin must be used to reduce vibration.

Using adhesive tapes

Using the same principle, you can protect the back side of the material being cut. Tape should be placed along the cutting line to protect against large fragments being torn out. Pasting surfaces is one of the few ways to ensure the cleanliness of a curved cut with a jigsaw. Unfortunately, masking tape It is not best suited for this due to its low strength.

The highest quality cut can be obtained by gluing the part with aluminum or fiberglass reinforced tape It should be wide enough to cover 15-20 mm on each side of the cutting line. The density of the sticker is also important: the tape must be pressed down well with a dry cloth swab and the formation of folds must be prevented by any means.

You should avoid tapes with very tenacious adhesive. During the tearing process, they can carry along small fibers and fragments of the laminated surface, dissected by microcracks that form during cutting. Also pay attention to how easily traces of glue are removed and whether the adhesive adheres well enough to work with rough materials such as unsanded plywood or OSB.

Ensuring a perfectly clean cut

For most parts, it is enough to reduce the chip size to 0.2-0.5 mm. Such small irregularities in the cut edge are not noticeable; if desired, they can be easily eliminated by chamfering with an emery block or covering them with a wax corrector pencil. End grinding is also possible sandpaper, if a sufficient allowance was given during cutting.

However, even at home, it is possible to achieve a cut quality comparable to the result of a cutting machine with two high-speed disks. This is only possible when the tool moves along a guide rail, or, in extreme cases, along a temporary stop bar.

First you need to make two cuts about 0.5 mm deep on both sides of the part to indicate the thickness of the cut. Along the edges of the cutting line, you need to scratch two grooves under an even ruler. This is done either with a segmented or oblique shoemaker's knife (for chipboard and uncoated wood), or with a sharply sharpened drill or pobedit cutter (for laminated materials).

The depth of the grooves should be at least half the thickness of the outer layer, which is non-uniform in relation to the main body of material. This method requires high precision matching the grooves and the cutting line, but this is the only way to really ensure a perfectly even cut end that does not require additional processing.

As practice shows, it is very difficult to make high-quality cuts of chipboard with a durable melamine coating. Rough Tools often leave jagged edges on the cuts. You will no longer be able to assemble a neat door or shelf with such defects. Cutting laminated chipboard at home usually occurs when repair work or furniture making.

How to cut chipboard without nicks and chips?

Special equipment

Of course, the most best option- use a special formatting machine. With its help you can get any cut. But you can’t buy such an instrument for private needs, but manufacturing plant providing sawing services, such a procedure will cost good money. A cheaper method is a circular saw. There are even special saws for chipboard. But they will also require the use of special tools. However, many should have in their arsenal milling machine, which will correct the rough cut with a milling cutter. If you have experience working on such a machine, it will not be difficult to obtain a satisfactory appearance cut.

Handy tools

You can cut chipboard with a jigsaw, but this will be a rough cut. The edges may turn out not straight, but sinusoidal, and in the worst case, the edge will not be perpendicular to the front surface.

When cutting, you must be prepared for the fact that the jigsaw file will begin to “walk” due to the bend. You need to cut with a margin of 4 mm, and then level the edge.

Cutting laminated chipboard at home using a jigsaw reduces the formation of chips. When cutting, you need to increase the speed and reduce the feed, setting the pumping to 0. Only sharp saw blades designed for special cutting of chipboard should be used. Only by following these rules can you achieve good result. After cutting, the end that will be visible can be sanded down. Additionally, before cutting, as already mentioned, you need to cut a line along which the cut will take place. But we do not move the file along this line, but near it - then the chips will not touch the limits you need. In the end, all that remains is to finish the edges with sandpaper.

Indents from the contour can be up to 4 mm. Then these few millimeters are removed with a cylindrical cutter using a hand-held electric router with a bearing. The bearing is guided along a long level fixed to the back of the sheet.

In addition, if the chips are in a non-working, low-visibility area, they can be disguised with a marker or felt-tip pen matched to their color.

The most undesirable way to cut chipboard- with a file (oddly enough, in old textbooks a lot of material is devoted to this method). You can use a plane, but preferably an electric one with carbide knives. But here we must take into account that dust from under the plane will scatter throughout the room.

And the most comfortable way- using a manual router along a guide. The end should be smooth and at 90 degrees, there will be no chips, and when the vacuum cleaner is turned on, there will be almost no dust.

Craftsmen recommend using a hacksaw for such cutting. If you have a saw with a fine tooth, then the operating procedure is as follows:

1) Draw a cutting line with a knife. Sharpen your saw before starting work. The knife should be applied with slight pressure to cut the laminated top layer.

2) Glue a tape with an adhesive base along the intended cutting line. It will help keep the decorative layer from cracking. You can also use paper tape.

3) The tool should be held at a very sharp angle. In this case, the angle should not be higher than 30 degrees - this will reduce the likelihood of chipping. During the cutting process, you need to apply light pressure on the saw. If the work is performed with a power tool, such as a jigsaw, then there is no need to rush and press it

4) After finishing cutting, the cut can be cleaned with a file. But in many cases this is not necessary, since the small teeth of the saw prevent the laminate from being deformed. If torn edges have formed, then delicate work with a rasp will bring the cut into proper shape. The grinding tool must be guided towards the center from the edge - this will minimize possible damage to the top layer.

5) The glued strip of veneer will give the final beauty to the cut.

Of course cutting laminated chipboard at home does not imply professional quality And high speed work. For those who are in a hurry, we can offer sawing chipboard Bulgarian A wood disc is used as a cutting element. A strip is attached to the chipboard with clamps so that the grinder can be guided along it for an even cut. After cutting, possible chips are processed with the same grinder, only with a different attachment - for grinding. But a more gentle option is to use sandpaper.

Friends asked for a tool to cut furniture panels. They didn’t have any skills in this kind of work, so in the end they came to the decision that I would cut and fit everything for them myself. And before that I was visiting. The owner made the cabinet and “scold” me for not describing how to work with the materials and with what. Therefore, I decided to describe some manipulations.

To make furniture you need approximately the following set of tools.

Since what the furniture will be made of has already been decided, the conversation will focus on making two cabinets (400 and 500mm wide) and wall cabinet 500mm wide. Before cutting the shields we do detail drawing with all sizes. I didn’t do it because the dimensions were already set and I was asked to cut it properly.

I cut panels and fiberboard using a manual circular saw and a homemade precision tool (aluminum angle and two clamps). My saw has a 38mm offset from the cutting line.

All sawn parts must be processed. To do this, I connect identical parts with clamps and level them with tape. grinder:

Then I additionally process the ends with an orbital sander. I don’t process the trimmed fiberboard on the back wall at all - the cut is quite even. Then I assemble the design of the cabinets using furniture corners (then they are removed and no longer spoil the appearance). I align the elements along the façade:

After preliminary assembly, holes are drilled and final assembly using long screws:

After complete fastening and removal of the corners, we perform alignment from the side back wall all elements to the same height using a plane:

After final fitting of the cabinet, I mark the elements and disassemble them for delivery to the customer (a very good friend). Items to transfer:

This is also very the right tool, there are functions charger and so on. Significantly increases productivity and mood:

I would also like to offer for review a tool for trimming timber. The chain saw bar has stops on one side (so you can press the bar against the templates), and on the other there is a handle for convenience (you can press it and cut off the ends more efficiently). Of course, the ends to be cut must be prepared - cut off, leaving a margin of about 30-40mm for trimming. The template is two boards installed vertically and secured with self-tapping screws:

You just need to drill a few holes in the tire. The edges of the timber along the entire height of the log house are simply amazing. So far I have only made two trim pieces, each 2m high. We need to make 6 more pieces, each 2.4 m high. There are simply no free assistants yet. One is on a business trip, the other is always busy with his bikes. After all the abuse, the devices are removed and, as they say, the ends are in the water.

Here is another example of furniture: a bench on the second floor landing of a garage. Integrated into the fence (the main requirement is increased load capacity and strength):

At the request of my neighbor, I explain how I process plywood and fasten it together.

In fact, it’s about the same as the furniture panels described above. The blade must be new and fine-toothed for finishing cuts. It is natural to cut using a precision tool (this is not a curse, but a set of rulers and devices is a very necessary thing. I hope that I will get it at the DR). I have it replaced by an aluminum angle, a 2m long level (very expensive and strong), several clamps. I saw curved areas with a jigsaw (you just need to vary the thickness of the file depending on the radius of curvature).

If you need to round the ends, then I use hand router. The cutter must be new (a bad cutter spoils the plywood). I make the roundings with a router on both sides. If the cutter is correct and the tool is set up correctly, then the rounding of the end will be neat.

I process the ends first with a belt sander (start with 60 grit, finish with 100-120), then with an orbital sander with a 200 grit sanding wheel. Initial assembly using furniture corners. Then I drill the holes and countersink them. After this, I tighten the screws of the appropriate length. I remove unnecessary corners. I fill all the unevenness and holes for screws with wood putty. After drying, I sand with an orbital polish. If necessary, I repeat the putty. Final sanding and preparation for painting.

My preferences: PARADE putty and Tikkurila aqualak, tinted. I also used other paints: for example, acrylic for colored radiators.

Favorites

However, I’ll give them in case you have better luck:

• File T101BR for laminate
• If possible, use guides for smooth cutting.
• Secure chipboard blanks with clamps.
• When cutting, consider the side of the workpiece - most likely one side of the saw will be cleaner than the other. Accordingly, this tactic can be used to determine the visible and invisible side details.
• Choose the optimal speed. When it doesn’t burn yet, but doesn’t yet shred
• I didn’t use it (alas, I was lazy :()), but according to messages on the forums, masking tape is used for better cutting and eliminating chips.

I would definitely say that the main advantage is the experience of working with a jigsaw: a correctly positioned hand.

Rai, Access date: 2015-12-27 00:15:19
No matter how much you worry about jigsaws, a normal hand saw is much better (albeit slower and requires a ton of effort). But it doesn’t lead anywhere.

In general, a circular saw will help. A jigsaw is for rough cutting; why the hell they are trying to saw it off perfectly is unclear to me.

Alexey, Access date: 2015-01-06 12:37:49
I envy your perseverance, I got tired of sawing with a jigsaw and bought a circular saw (EPDU 750110), sawing became a pleasure, it was fast and the cut was even, the laminate did not break.

Dmitry, Access date: 2013-02-12 17:24:23
Once I came to the market to buy jigsaw files. I always sawed with Bosch saws (teeth pointing upward). They advised me to try files for laminate flooring. I took it. I will say that I was very happy. The cut turned out smooth without any chips, and the cut itself seemed to be polished, without protruding sawdust.
Cons:
- cutting speed is not high
- with a lot of pressure, the teeth become dull faster, plus deformation from high temperature.
One saw was enough to cut three panels (chipboard)
1800 x 500 mm, there was no point in cutting further.
I cut with a Skill jigsaw at 5-6 speeds (6 in total), at lower speeds it is ineffective.

Maria, Access date: 2012-05-02 03:06:31
We cut with a jigsaw like this: first we make the necessary markings on the chipboard, then, placing a level (it functions as a regular ruler) on the chipboard, use a knife for cutting gypsum board and make a cut as deep as possible with pressure. Stepping back 2mm from this line, we make a second similar slot. Thus, the top layer of laminate (or veneer) is cut with a sharp knife without chipping. The saw blade cuts the chipboard along a 2mm “groove” - either in the middle, or along the second slot. The allowance is removed by sanding and the cut is always perfect (I’m talking about the absence of chips).

Alexander , Access date: 2012-04-15 12:58:44
For some reason, no one mentioned that for a neat saw “without chips” it is better to use a file with a SMALL tooth - it will take longer to cut, but it will be cleaner. As for tilting the file to the side - yes, it depends on the speed of movement, the hand, and the tool itself.

Ruslan, Access date: 2012-02-23 15:20:01
I haven’t tried sawing chipboard with a jigsaw, I always end up with an oblique cut, at first it goes straight, then the oblique cut goes, why?

sdelal-sam answers:

I’m not saying, but I’m guessing that you’re trying to cut very hard/quickly. Excessive pressure causes a pull to the side. If you take your time and take a breath, you can visually control the sawing without turning off the jigsaw. If it's pulled in the same direction, in my case it's a hand problem. To make allowances for this matter - take (press) left/right

Yuri, Access date: 2011-12-13 19:43:01
Good evening everyone! Can someone please tell me the exact marking of the saw blade for clean cutting of chipboard! Does the length of the file affect the deviation from the vertical? Has anyone used a Diold jigsaw?

Status, Access date: 2011-07-12 07:53:19
You need to not wag the jigsaw yourself. You can cut it straight without a guide, or you can cut it crookedly with a guide.

Lyokha, Access date: 2011-01-22 17:05:45
Bimetal is more expensive but also lasts longer, which is even more profitable in terms of money. But I still make important cuts with a reserve and process them with a milling cutter, the quality is an order of magnitude higher. But in general, I don’t like laminate with wood; it’s much more pleasant to work with, and things made from wood is much “warmer” and more solid.

sam Access date: 2011-01-21 00:18:36
I have been installing furniture for many years, and I agree with your advice. For a more even cut, I usually use small Bosch saws, tooth first. I file the part with a small margin and finish it with sandpaper secured to a flat block. (http://www.samouchkamebel.ru)

Vitaly, Access date: 2010-10-04 21:17:50
It is best to scratch the chipboard surface with a hard, sharp object, such as an awl. It is enough to move the awl once with force along the intended cutting area. But this option is optimal only for the upper part of the cut. But with the right blade (for the bottom cut), you can achieve a good result.

Mikhail, Access date: 2010-07-23 17:04:18
Masking tape is bullshit. Peels off the veneer along with tape

Anton, Access date: 2010-07-14 14:58:20
It is better to use saw blades that are marked BIM (bimetal) and the service life is longer and the blades are less likely to break. It is better to use Bosch T101B BIM saws. Tested to work without problems under the conditions described by Alexey.2

Alexey, Access date: 2009-07-02 14:43:15
For a clean cut I use regular saws (the tooth points upward), it is better to take more expensive ones (they cut longer and cleaner) on a jigsaw the swing angle is 0 (zero), I set the speed to the swing, I use “guides for smooth sawing” (the author’s words), the laminate is in place cut, from the top side of the part, I first cut it with a breadboard knife. Thus, there are no chips on the bottom side because the direction of the tooth is upward, and the laminate is already cut through on top of the part.