Do-it-yourself water heated floor in a private house

There is no need to talk about the comfort of using heated floors; this type of heating is very popular in private homes, as it is effective and has high efficiency. Despite the fact that this type of work is not much more difficult than others related to arranging maximum convenience and comfort of one’s own home, few know how to make a heated floor with their own hands.

Let's consider theoretical and practical issues related to independent calculation and arrangement of water floor heating in small residential or office spaces.

Preparatory work and calculation of materials

Such a responsible job as installing a heated floor with your own hands should begin with the preparation of materials and planning. Strictly speaking, an accurate calculation can only be made by specialists who have information about the level of heat leakage in a given room. But for individual needs, approximate calculations are often used that satisfy the requirements.

First you need to draw a plan for the placement of pipes. The clearest and most visual diagram will be a diagram drawn on paper in a checkered pattern, the warm floor on which can be calculated based on the square footage of the room. Each cell will correspond to a pitch - the distance between the pipes.

For temperate climate zone:

• If the house and windows are well insulated, the distance between adjacent turns of the pipe can be 15-20 cm;
• If the walls are not insulated, 10-15 cm.
• IN spacious rooms, where some of the walls are cold and some are warm, they take a variable step: near the cold walls the distance between adjacent turns of pipes is small, and as they approach warm walls- it is increased.

What flooring is suitable for heated floors?

A big mistake is made by those who plan to lay parquet or thick wood covering. Wood is a poor conductor of heat and will prevent the room from heating up. The efficiency of such heating may be even lower than that of radiator heating, and heating costs may be too high.

The ideal covering for a heated floor is stone, ceramic or porcelain tiles. Once heated, it will keep warm perfectly, and this is the best option for the kitchen or bathroom. Children love to play in rooms where the floor is warm, and it’s more pleasant to walk barefoot there than in wooden parquet.

A little worst option flooring, but more suitable for a guest room or bedroom - linoleum and laminate. These materials transmit heat well and will not reduce the efficiency of water heating. In this case, the laminate should be chosen with a minimum thickness, and linoleum - without an insulating backing.

When heated, many synthetic materials can emit harmful fumes. Therefore, floor coverings with chemical components must have a manufacturer’s mark indicating the possibility of their use in residential premises on heated floors.

Base for heated floors

If we are talking about a house with concrete floors, then the most accessible generally accepted option is concrete screed with water heating. The same method is used for the first (ground) floors of private cottages, if the base of the floor is on a sand cushion, which is located directly on the ground.

In houses with wooden floors, this option is not applicable. Wooden floor beams simply will not withstand the enormous weight of a concrete screed, no matter how thin it is. In this case, a lightweight version of heated floors is used, which will be discussed in a separate section.

Installing a heated floor with your own hands begins with preparing the base. The base for creating a warm floor must be flat, without protrusions and depressions. The maximum permissible difference is 5 mm. If the depth of surface defects reaches 1-2 cm, then you will have to pour and level a thin layer of granite screenings (fine crushed stone) with a grain size of up to 5 mm. You will have to lay a film over the leveling layer and walk on wooden boards when laying the thermal insulation. Otherwise, the leveling layer itself will become a source of unevenness.

Laying schemes for water heated floors

The most common layouts for laying water floors are snail and spiral. The snail evenly heats the entire floor area. But with a spiral design, it is possible to provide a greater level of heating in the coldest zone of the room. To do this, the first branches of the pipe through which the hot water, are placed exactly there. Based on the finished drawing, the exact length of the pipe is determined.

For heated floors, only a single piece of pipe is used! If the room area is very large, several heating circuits are planned. The length of the pipe of each circuit should not exceed 100 m. Otherwise, the pressure required for the normal coolant flow rate will be too high. In area this corresponds to 15 sq.m.

It is best to make a water floor with your own hands from a metal-plastic pipe with a diameter of 16 mm. It bends easily with a fairly small radius, and it is much more convenient to work with it than with a cross-linked polyethylene pipe. It is not advisable to use a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm. A larger diameter will require an increase in the thickness of the concrete, and this has a bad effect on the efficiency of the heating system.

Typically pipe consumption per 1 sq.m. area is:

• 10 m at 10 cm increments;
• 6.75 m at 15 cm pitch.

Selection of thermal insulation and fasteners for water heated floors

To prevent heat from escaping downwards, a layer of dense foam is placed on the base. The density of the insulation is selected to be at least 25, and preferably 35 kg/cub.m. Lighter polystyrene foam will simply collapse under the weight of the concrete layer.

Insulation and heat reflector

Optimal thickness insulation - 5 cm. When laying on the ground or if increased protection from the cold is necessary, when the level below is an unheated room, the thickness of the thermal insulation can be increased to 10 cm. To reduce heat losses, it is recommended to lay a heat-reflecting screen made of metallized film over the insulation. It could be:

• Penofol (metalized polyethylene foam);
• Reflective foam screen glued behind radiators;
• Regular aluminum food foil.

The metallized layer is quickly destroyed by the aggressive action of concrete, so the screen itself also needs protection. Such protection is provided by polyethylene film, which is used for greenhouses and in greenhouse farming. The film thickness should be 75-100 microns.

In addition, it provides the necessary moisture for the maturing concrete screed throughout the entire period of its hardening. The pieces of film must be overlapped, and the joint must be sealed with tape.

Fastening connections for water heating pipes

Pipe fasteners are installed on the thermal insulation. Its purpose is to secure adjacent branches of the pipe and position it along the floor in strict accordance with the preliminary plan. The fastener holds the pipe until the concrete screed reaches the desired degree of hardness. The use of fasteners facilitates the installation of the floor and ensures correct placement of the pipe in the thickness of the concrete pad.

Fasteners can be special metal strips, metal welded mesh, plastic staples that secure the pipe to the foam base.

1. Metal strips are used when the thickness of the concrete pad is increased. They slightly raise the pipe relative to the heat insulator, due to which it is closer to the upper surface of the concrete pad. The pipe simply snaps into the shaped recesses of the strips.
2. Metal mesh not only secures the pipe, but also reinforces the layer of concrete pad. The pipe is tied to the mesh with pieces of wire or plastic clamps. Fastener consumption is 2 pcs. per linear meter. Additional fasteners can be used in places where there are curves.
3. Plastic brackets are installed manually. They pin the pipe to the polystyrene foam as it is laid. Do-it-yourself semi-industrial heated floors are made using a special stapler. But its purchase is justified only with intensive professional use.

IN recent years Manufacturers of underfloor heating systems began to offer another very convenient solution. We are talking about special sheets of dense polystyrene foam with a profiled surface. Typically, the surface of such sheets consists of intersections of grooves or rows of protruding elements, between which heating pipes are easily laid.

The surface of the sheets is smooth, extruded, all pores are closed and no additional waterproofing film is required. Having a special thermal cutter, you can cut grooves in polystyrene foam yourself. But to carry out this work you need at least minimal experience.

Metal-plastic pipes are supplied in coils. When laying, the coil rolls out along the pipe placement path. Do not pull the pipe from a lying coil, as this will cause it to twist and may lead to delamination of the internal layers.

Selecting a recipe, preparing and pouring concrete

Pipes can only be poured with concrete after they have been completely laid, connected to the collectors and filled with water under a pressure of 4 bar. Before filling, it is necessary to maintain the pipe under this pressure for a couple of days. If a leak is discovered, it is repaired immediately. If the heating system itself has not yet been installed, instead of water, air is pumped into the pipes using a compressor and the pressure is fixed with ball valves.

Immediately after injection, the pressure may drop slightly due to straightening of the pipes. During pouring and hardening of concrete, the pressure is monitored using a connected pressure gauge.

To compensate for thermal expansion, we attach a damper tape along all walls. Temperature expansion concrete pad is 0.5 mm per linear meter, with an increase in temperature by 40 degrees. If the heating is only 20 degrees, the expansion will accordingly be half as much. We multiply the expansion by the length of the longest section of the concrete floor and compare the resulting value with the thickness of the damper tape.

For ordinary apartments As a rule, it is enough to lay the tape only along the walls and at the door threshold. In addition, the damper tape also plays the role of thermal insulation of the walls from the heated floor. This method eliminates cold bridges that cause unnecessary heat loss.

Additionally, in some cases expansion stitches are made:

• if the length of any side of the room is more than 8 meters;
• the width and length of the room differ by more than twice;
• floor area exceeds 30 sq.m.;
• the shape of the room has several bends.

For extended heated floors expansion joint with a damper tape is installed every 10 m. To prevent the movement of concrete pads in these places from breaking the pipe, a rigid plastic corrugation (preferable) or a larger diameter pipe is placed on it. The penetration of the protective pipe into the concrete pads is at least 0.5 m on each side.

If a cluster occurs according to the layout warm pipes in one place (for example, near the collector), then a heat insulating sleeve must be put on part of the pipes. This will help avoid local overheating and retain heat for the desired areas of the floor.

How to make a water heated floor: concreting

If concrete for pouring is not brought in, but is prepared on site, then the following components will be required:

• cement grade 300 or 400 - 1 part by weight;
• washed river sand - 1.9 parts per hour;
• crushed stone 5-20 mm in size - 3.7 w.p.

This is a composition of heavy concrete. Its weight reaches 2.5 tons per 1 cubic meter. finished material.

Many people prefer to avoid sand in concrete for underfloor heating. This is due to its poor thermal conductivity. Therefore, in practice, cement-gravel mixtures are also used. Its composition:

• granite crushed stone 5-20 mm - 2 buckets;
• cement - 1 bucket;
• small granite screening up to 5 mm - 4 buckets;
• water - 7 l (you can add another 1 l if the solution is very thick).

Granite conducts heat perfectly, and such concrete has a much lower thermal resistance. It is also recommended to introduce reinforcing fiber into the composition, which is small plastic fibers.

Any self-leveling floor must contain a plasticizer. The specific amount depends on the specific brand and purpose of this drug. The plasticizer should not be just any plasticizer, but specifically for heated floors!

If the pipe was attached to strips or brackets, a reinforcing mesh is laid on top of it. The height of the concrete screed is selected from 5 to 10 cm. In this case, it is necessary to provide at least 3 cm of concrete above the pipe. A smaller layer is fraught with cracking. And a concrete pad that is too thick increases heat transfer losses.

With the right choice of concrete and normal temperature, it begins to set within 4 hours. To maintain normal humidity, it should be covered with a waterproof film, and when the surface dries, water it with water. After just 12 hours, hardened concrete can support the weight of a person. But its full ripening occurs only after 28 days. All this time you need to take care of humidity and maintain high pressure in the laid pipes. Only after the specified period has passed can the first thermal test this gender.

Both during the first test and subsequently, it is impossible to quickly heat the water-heated floor to a high temperature!

Flooring

You can glue tiles and other floor coverings onto the finished concrete base. In this case, glue intended for heated floors is used. If the tile falls on an expansion joint, then one part of it must be glued, and the second must be placed on silicone. Silicone adhesive absorbs thermal movements of the base, and the tile will not crack from overstress.

Lightweight heated floors for wooden floors

As mentioned earlier, for wooden floors settling in light warm floor without concrete pad. In this case, the sequence of work may differ slightly depending on the condition of the old floor and the design of the ceiling.

To prevent heat from escaping downwards, insulation is placed under the pipes. It can be placed between the floor joists, and then it is better to use mineral wool, or it can be laid on an old durable subfloor - here you will need polystyrene foam with a density of 25-35 kg/cub.m. To prevent condensation from forming, a vapor barrier membrane is placed under the mineral wool. The first subfloor is placed on top of the joists.

Just as for a concrete floor, it is advisable to lay a heat-reflecting screen made of foil or foam foam on the insulation. All joints and seams must be sealed with tape.

The logs are laid directly on the polystyrene foam, to which the subfloor boards are nailed. There should be gaps of about 2 cm between the boards for laying the pipe. Similar gaps must be provided at the ends of the subfloor boards. Otherwise, you will have to choose transverse grooves for the pipe, and this can lead to breakage of the boards.

To ensure that heat is evenly distributed across the floor, the pipe is placed not just in grooves, but in special metal gutters designed for this purpose. The metal transfers heat over its entire surface and evenly heats the final finish. Recommendations for its choice have already been given above - it can be a laminate with permission to work with heating or a hard polymer coating. Thick parquet and parquet boards are the least suitable for heated floors.

Compared to concrete heated floors, lightweight construction is much faster and costs significantly less. Another advantage is the ability to repair water pipes in the event of an accident. Problems with tubes in concrete floor can only be eliminated by replacing it completely.

The main disadvantage of a wooden heated floor is its significantly lower thermal power.

Power the heated floor from heating apartment buildings is possible only with the permission of the heat energy supplier. All recommendations remain in force, although we personally recommend installing a heat-resistant water filter at the pipe inlet.

Bottom line

Properly equipped heat in own home- this is another step towards comfortable and convenient living conditions for the whole family. But, even if you are not able to complete these works and are forced to invite craftsmen, the knowledge gained will allow you to take an active part in this process.

Providing underfloor heating during the construction of a private house is not an easy task, but it can be solved. It is much more difficult to make a water heated floor from existing heating country cottage or apartment. How to correctly install and connect heating circuits in such a situation with your own hands, read in this article.

Planning and selection of materials

To successfully integrate heated floors into an existing heating system, you must first resolve several serious issues:

1. Obtain permission to connect to the central heating network if we are talking about an apartment in a multi-storey building.
2. Find out what height can be allocated for the “pie” of underfloor heating without raising the thresholds of interior doors.
3. Determine attachment points to existing system and rationally choose a scheme.
4. Prepare building materials, pipes and plumbing fixtures.

Each item of the preparatory plan is proposed to be considered separately.

Is it possible to connect to the central heating system

You cannot simply embed heating circuits into common apartment risers. Underfloor heating will take away a significant portion of the heat from your neighbors, who will file a complaint with the management company, and you will receive a large fine for unauthorized interference with the network.

Advice. Do not connect to risers at your own risk. Try to complete the permit properly. If you receive a clear refusal, think about heating with electric heated floors.

When can we hope for a positive solution to the issue:

• in a new building with individual heating inputs from a common riser passing through the technical rooms;
• in a ground floor apartment with an upper coolant supply or a separate connection from the basement;
• in a dwelling on the top floor with a lower distribution of the supply line.

At vertical wiring approval can be obtained by the owner of the upper apartment when the coolant is supplied from below

The idea of ​​apartment connection is based on the fact that the batteries in your apartment are the last ones. Additional load on the riser in the form of heating circuits will not harm the neighbors. True, the organization that supplies heat energy has the right to demand the installation of an individual metering unit and the development of design documentation. It is problematic for residents of other apartments to obtain permission.

Determining the thickness of the “pie”

The main problem when installing water underfloor heating in a residential building is the small distance from the base of the floor (floor slabs) to the bottom of the doorway. Usually this height is equal to the thickness of the screed and is 6-10 cm. The situation with wooden floors similar - the width of the lags where the covering boards are laid lies in the range of 50-150 mm.

Important point. Before installing a heated floor in a habitable apartment, the existing screed will have to be broken down to the foundation, and the wooden flooring will have to be completely dismantled. Otherwise, the “pie” will not fit, and raising the door thresholds or making a step at the entrance is an unconstructive solution.

There is only 1 way to fit heating circuits into a thickness of 50 mm - use a flooring system with metal plates - heat distributors, shown in the diagram. The composition of the “pie” will look like this:

• layer of dense polymer insulation 30 mm;
• metal plates with grooves;
• heating pipes Ø16 mm;
• thin flooring - laminate or tiles when it comes to the bathroom.

Reference. For laying heat distribution plates, special polystyrene foam mats with bosses or ready-made wooden modules.

Due to the high price of such systems, craftsmen often suggest installing plates between boards 2-2.5 cm thick, laid on a layer of 8-10 mm polyethylene foam (Penofol). We do not recommend implementing such solutions - a small thermal insulation layer will transmit the lion's share of heat to the neighbors below or into the basement of a private house.

When the height of the thresholds is 10 cm, monolithic heated floors with screed are installed. Polystyrene slabs 30-40 mm thick are laid in the base, the remaining 6-7 cm are left for screed and finishing coating.

Scheme of the “pie” of heated floors with screed

Connection diagrams for heating circuits

One of the most important issues that must be resolved before starting work is how to connect a water-heated floor to an existing heating system. We offer the following options:

1. In an apartment with individual heat input - according to the classical scheme with a mixing unit installed in the hallway. The cabinet with the collector is neatly sealed inside the wall.
2. In a private house, it is advisable to connect directly from a gas or other boiler, using a distribution comb and a mixing unit.
3. In apartments with two-pipe risers, connect the circuit of each room directly to the network near the heating radiators. Temperature regulation is carried out by thermal heads of the RTL type.
4. IN apartment buildings With single-pipe risers you cannot do without installing mixing units with a circulation pump.

Connection diagram for apartment-to-apartment heat distribution

Note. Connecting heated floors to heating mains without a pump and mixing unit can be implemented in almost any two-pipe system. How to do this correctly, read below.

The coolant coming from the boiler or from the centralized heating network has a temperature of 50-90 ° C, which is unacceptable for heated floors. The temperature graph of the heating circuit lies in the range of 35-45 °C, maximum – 55 °C (if the pipes are embedded in a screed).

Scheme of connecting heated floors to the boiler through a two-way valve

To prepare water at the required temperature, mixing units with two or three way valve and a circulation pump pumping coolant through the circuits. IN centralized systems For heating, it is better to use a circuit with a two-way valve, in individual ones - with a three-way valve.

Reference. The quality of the coolant in central heating networks is too low - the water is saturated with rust and other impurities. The simpler and more reliable it is to select equipment, the longer it will last without problems.

Connection diagram for underfloor heating to the boiler via a three-way valve

Separate connection of the circuits to two-pipe mains is made through thermal heads of the RTL type, which limit the reverse flow of coolant when the outlet water temperature exceeds the set value. Mixing units, collectors and circulation pumps are not used.

Branch connection diagram without additional pump

To connect a heated floor, it is enough to buy a ready-made block with a thermostatic tap and an RTL head placed inside a neat plastic box. Offers similar products famous brand Oventrop, name – RTL Unibox.

Connection diagram to a single-pipe vertical system

Available about various options An expert will tell you how to connect underfloor heating to an existing system in his video:

We select building materials and components

When you have chosen the right connection diagram, calculating the required amount of materials is quite simple. You need to find out the area of ​​the kitchen, bedroom and other rooms where you plan to install heated floors. Plus choose the laying scheme and distance between the pipes.

Also used when installing heated floors consumables– damper tape (adhesive around the perimeter of the room), clips for attaching pipes and waterproofing film placed under the insulation. The screed is used with a ready-made construction mixture, the consumption of which is indicated on the packaging.

For “dry” type heating circuits, you will have to buy polystyrene plates with bosses and heat distribution plates (preferably made of aluminum). Modular sets made of wood will cost more. A budget option is to run pipes between regular boards 20 mm thick, laid on the insulation with your own hands.

Advice. If the height difference between the base and doorways is 10-20 cm (for example, on a balcony, loggia), increase the thickness of the “pie” using insulation. That is, take thermal insulation boards not 30, but 50 or 100 mm. The result is increased energy efficiency of premises and heat savings.

Monolithic heated floor installation technology

After dismantling the floor structures - screeds or wooden logs– the base must be cleaned and leveled for installation thermal insulation boards. and fill the corners with mortar, knock down the bumps and sagging. Take out the trash and remove as much dust as possible (ideally with a special construction vacuum cleaner).

The step-by-step technology for installing heated floors in a residential apartment looks like this:

Note. Instead of waterproofing film It is allowed to use Penofol with a thickness of 4-5 mm, laying it with the foil up. The canvases are placed without overlap and taped with aluminum tape.

When using regulation using RTL thermal heads, the length of the pipeline in the circuit should not exceed 60 m, otherwise the room will heat up unevenly. Conduct a leak test with a working pressure of 3 Bar in a country house and 6-7 Bar in an apartment with centralized heating. Maintain the specified pressure for 24 hours.

After making sure that the connections are tight, proceed to pouring the screed without emptying the contours. Minimum thickness cement-sand monolith - 5 cm, maximum - 10 cm. In order not to make mistakes in the proportions during the preparation of the solution, it is recommended to work with a ready-made dry mixture for pouring floors containing a plasticizer.

Further work on connecting heated floors to the existing heating network is carried out after 20-28 days (the exact curing period is indicated on the bags construction mixture). The contours are attached according to the chosen scheme, after which the finishing coating is laid. The technology for installing underfloor heating is clearly shown in the video.

Underfloor heating device without screed

Using wooden modular system or mats equipped with bosses, it is not difficult to make warm floors. The difference from the previous technology is the absence of a cement screed and the laying of the finishing coating directly on the insulation or boards.

There is a simpler and cheaper way to accommodate water contours at a height difference of 5 cm:

1. Lay 50 mm thick extruded polystyrene foam boards with side connection locks on top of the waterproofing.
2. Mark the pipe laying routes on the insulation and cut grooves for them using a thermal knife or a sharp tool.
3. Install metal plates in the grooves and lay the pipelines.
4. Lay laminate or other thin covering.

The remaining work on testing and connecting the heated floor to the existing heating mains is carried out using the technology described in the previous section.

Conclusion

Before installing floor heating inside a habitable apartment with a working heating system, make sure that it is technically possible to connect and lay pipes into the thickness of the floors. If the height difference between the base and the door opening does not reach 5 cm, there are 2 options left: raise the thresholds and door frames or abandon the idea. The decision depends on the desire to install a warm floor and the budget that you are willing to allocate for construction.

Design engineer with more than 8 years of experience in construction.
Graduated from the East Ukrainian National University. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronics Industry Equipment in 2011.

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The “warm floor” system is quickly gaining popularity, as it not only allows you to make an apartment or house a more comfortable place to live, but is also quite simple to install. A water heated floor can be connected to both a centralized and autonomous heating system. Before starting work, it is necessary to carefully study the installation process of such a system and purchase materials that will not corrode for many years.

Technology for connecting a heated floor to a heating system

There are a number of conditions that must be taken into account when installing heated floors. It is better to start such work when you plan to do major repairs. Installation can only be carried out after the temperature of the coolant in the system has decreased to at least +55 °C. If possible, the water from the system should be completely drained. It is possible to install a warm water floor if the standard pressure in the system does not exceed 8-9 atm.

Depending on the characteristics of the existing heating system, either one or two circuits can be installed. In the first case, the length of the pipe should be no more than 30 m. The heated floor system is connected to the heating system according to the principle of another radiator. Subsequently, water begins to circulate through the pipe. The installation of the circuit is carried out immediately after the radiator so that, if necessary, the temperature of the coolant can be reduced. In the second case, circuit 1 is intended to supply hot water, and pipe 2 is used to drain cooled water back to the boiler for further heating.

The first stage of installing a heated floor of any type is planning the work. Such a system includes a number of components that must be connected in a certain sequence. Immediately after exiting the boiler, the expansion tank is installed. After this, a pressure gauge or thermal relay is installed. In addition, it is advisable to install a security group.

Next in the circuit of the underfloor heating system is a collector, to which pipes will be connected to supply the water necessary to heat the floor surface. After the collector, a special pump is installed that pumps up pressure. Only when serial connection elements of the system, you can achieve its stable operation.

Materials and tools for arranging a water heated floor

To install a heated floor system, it is necessary to purchase in advance a number of materials, the quality of which is subject to very high requirements. Each stage will require the use of certain materials. When preparing the floor for laying the system you will need

• sealant for sealing cracks;
• plaster;
• mounting polystyrene foam boards;
• folgoizol;
• damper tape.

It is necessary to purchase in advance the rollers and spatulas that will be required to properly prepare the floor. To form a system you will need following materials and devices:

• injection pump;
• metal-plastic or plastic pipes with a diameter of 2 cm;
• ball valves;
• collector;
• fitting;
• distributing pipes.

Among other things, when working on installing heated floors, you will need a number of tools. The minimum set includes:

• electric drill;
• adjustable wrench;
• construction knife for polystyrene foam;
• heat gun;
• building level.

In addition, it is necessary to prepare in advance the materials and tools that will be required when installing a concrete screed on the surface of an already manufactured heated floor. On at this stage To carry out the work you will need cement, sand, a concrete mixer, a long rule and beacons. To control the quality of work, you can use a building level.

Preparing the floor for installation of water heated floors

Careful preparation of the base is the key to reducing heat loss. First you need to remove the existing floor covering down to concrete base. The surface must be carefully inspected to identify cracks. They should be sealed with sealant or plaster. The surface must be checked with a building level and, if necessary, leveled. This will reduce heat loss. A damper tape must be installed around the perimeter of the room, loggia or balcony where the heated floor system is installed. It is available with or without a self-adhesive backing. In addition, the damper tape varies in width. You need to choose this material so that its upper edge is higher than the concrete screed. If the wall surface is flat and smooth, the damper tape can be fixed with glue. If the walls are rough, dowel nails should be used.

To reduce heat loss, it is necessary to lay foil insulation on the floor. Its joints must be taped with metallized tape. When arranging a water floor, special slabs and available clamps for pipes are extremely convenient. This material also performs a thermal insulation function. Such plates can be fixed to each other with special glue or self-tapping screws. After preparing the floor, you can proceed to the next stage of forming the heated floor system.

Laying the contour of a water heated floor

A drawing should be made in advance with an exact indication of the location of the water circuit pipes, taking into account the square footage of the room. In most cases, the snake or snail method is used. The clamps present on the polystyrene foam boards will simplify the installation process. Additionally, you can use a heat gun to secure the pipes. The easiest option to arrange is a snail, since in this case there will be fewer angles. In addition, in this case, hot water pipes will lie next to cold ones, which will avoid the “zebra” effect, in which one section of the floor remains cool while another is hot.

Laying of water heated floor pipes should be done in increments of 10-15 cm. This is enough for uniform heating. In regions with a warm climate, it is allowed to increase the pitch to 30 cm. You must immediately purchase a coil of pipe, the installation of which will be carried out. The water heating circuit must be solid and not have a butt joint. This will avoid future leaks. Both ends of one or both pipes must be led to a distribution point, that is, a collector. The pipes are fixed to the wall on which this element of the heated floor system will be located with metal sleeves or plastic fasteners.

The laid pipes must be connected to a manifold, which is necessary to regulate the operation of the underfloor heating system. In the cheapest options, this element of the system is equipped only with shut-off valves, and in more expensive ones expensive models There are additional features to make the floor heating system more efficient.

To fix the collector to the wall, you must use an electric drill, dowels and self-tapping screws. To hide it, you can install a special wall metal cabinet. To connect water heated floor pipes to the manifold, special fittings are used, which in most cases are included with it. If necessary, these fasteners can be purchased separately. To secure to the manifold, each pipe must first be fitted with a union nut, O-ring and nipple. After this, the pipe is connected to the manifold by tightening the nut with an adjustable wrench.

Connection to the heating system

Connecting a finished floor heating system can be done in various ways. When using a single-pipe system, the circuit through which the coolant will enter is first connected. This is then done after installing the circulation pump, while the return line must be installed after it. It's pretty simple circuit, the operation of which can be regulated not only using an installed manifold, but also a ball valve.

With a two-pipe system, the installation diagram will be more complex. After laying the pipes, they must be connected to the collector. At the same time, in this case it is recommended to connect the circulation pump to the pipe that discharges the coolant to the boiler. It is advisable to install the expansion tank, safety group and thermostat in front of the manifold.

After the underfloor heating system is connected to the heater, it is necessary to fill it with water. It should remain in this position for at least a day. At this time, the system is carefully checked for leaks. After this, a test run of the system is performed.

Pouring screed over the water circuit

If you use special slabs to form the contour of a water floor, metal reinforcement is laid on top of them, the individual elements of which are tied with wire. After this, you can begin pouring the concrete screed. It is best to prepare the cement-sand mixture in a concrete mixer, since it will be problematic to mix the required volume yourself efficiently.

It is imperative to install beacons, since the concrete screed should cover the surface of the heated floor by no more than 5-6 cm and metal fittings. A thicker layer will reduce the efficiency of the heated floor. The finished mixture is poured and leveled using the rule. In this case, you need to focus on previously installed beacons.

The surface of the screed can be lightly coated with cement through a sieve. This will make the surface more durable, and after drying, the remaining cement can be easily removed. When the concrete screed is completely poured and leveled, it must be allowed to dry for at least 3-4 weeks. After this time, you can begin installation decorative material and surface load.

What is a water heated floor? This is a capital liquid heating system in which the air in the room is heated through the use of a flooring structure with a pipe system through which the coolant circulates. The heated floor system is connected to a local (gas boiler) or central heating system.

A water underfloor heating system can be used as the main heating of the house (an independent source of heating) or as an additional one. Depending on the design and heating method, there are different types underfloor heating: water and (cable, rod,).

Water heated floor is a durable and economical system heating, but its installation is associated with significant difficulties and costs. Therefore, installation of underfloor heating systems is entrusted to professionals. For those who have decided to make a water heated floor with their own hands, we will tell you what stages this process consists of and pay attention to the main subtleties of design and installation.

Water heated floor - advantages and disadvantages

Pros:

• effective heat redistribution, ensuring uniform heating of the entire room;

• security natural circulation air;

• compatibility of heated floors with any type of floor covering (provided that it conducts heat well: tiles, laminate, natural stone);

• the ability to install an autonomous system (individual heating) or connect to the central heating main;

• reduction in heating costs by 20-40% (compared to radiator);

• independence from power supply (and power outages);

• the ability to regulate the temperature in individual rooms and at any time of the day;

• minimal costs for self-installation;

• is improving appearance premises due to the absence of radiators and visible pipes of the heating system;

Cons:

• inertia of the system. The heating time of the room is 4-6 hours (depending on the volume, area);

• design complexity in the case of using heated floors as single source heating the room;

• high installation cost;

• difficult to regulate temperature regime in case of connection to the central heating main;

• reducing the height of the room by raising the floor by 100-120 mm;

• the use of floor coverings such as carpet, carpet or carpet is excluded;

• the possibility of leakage (in an apartment - flooding of neighbors below, in a private house - basement);

• low maintainability of the pipe system;

Water heated floor - DIY installation

Step-by-step instructions for installing water floor heating include four sequential steps:

1. Develop yourself, download a ready-made standard or order individual project warm water floor. At this stage, it is recommended to involve a specialist to eliminate errors.
2. Select equipment and building materials.
3. Install the underfloor heating system correctly.
4. Check and launch the water heated floor for the first time.
5. Finishing, laying flooring (tiles, laminate, linoleum).

Stage 1 - designing a heated floor

Before you begin drawing up a project, you need to make sure that there are no unavoidable obstacles to installing the system indoors. These may include:

• room height. The thickness of the water-heated floor (installed system) is 100-120 mm. This results in the floor being raised to the appropriate height;

• door installation location. Due to the installation of the system, the floor level rises. It is necessary to maintain the height of the doorway at 2200 mm ( standard door and installation gaps) or evaluate the possibility of increasing the doorway or estimate how much it will cost to make a door to order;

• window orientation. Windows located to the north or northwest, or oriented to the windy side, or of large size, may result in the system power needing to be increased to compensate for heat loss through the external circuit and ensure the desired room temperature;

  Note. If the calculated heat losses are more than 100 W/m2. It is not practical to install a water heating system.

• load-bearing capacity of beams or floor slabs. Taking into account the weight of the concrete screed, the ability of the floor slabs or beams to support the weight of the water heated floor system should be assessed. Old floors are not a reason to abandon the system as a whole, but it is a reason to look into a water-based floor.

In view of the requirements listed above, water-heated floors in private houses have become more widespread than in apartments in high-rise buildings.

If there are no obstacles to the device, you can begin designing.

Calculation of water heated floor

Calculation in progress required quantity material depending on the parameters of the heated room and technical characteristics components of equipment and materials. The calculation of a warm water floor is made based on the following data:

• floor area and room height;
• material of walls and ceilings;
• degree and type of thermal insulation;
• type of flooring;
• pipe material and diameter;
• power of the heating element (boiler or central);
• desired temperature regime (see table).

Limit (maximum) temperature of the surface of a heated floor for premises for various purposes

After this, a sketch (diagram, drawing) is made, reflecting the installation location of the main equipment, the method and step of pipe placement.

How to make a water heated floor correctly

Be sure to pay attention (device features):

• install in furniture locations heating elements gender is not allowed, because this can cause them to overheat and dry out;

• It is not recommended to exceed the length of the circuit over 90 m (the limit value depends on the cross-section of the pipe);

Maximum length of the water-heated floor circuit (loop) depending on the pipe diameter used

The deviation is explained by the fact that hydraulic resistance (slowing down the movement of the coolant) and thermal load are directly dependent on the diameter of the pipe.

Craftsmen consider the optimal length of the circuit to be 50-60 m (with a pipe cross-section of 20 mm). If necessary, it is advisable to install two circuits of the same length. This is due to the fact that as it moves through the pipes, the hot water releases some of the thermal energy, and the floor temperature decreases. The use of short circuits will ensure uniform heating of the floor over the entire area.

Note. The length of the circuit is calculated from the point of exit from the collector, not only at the point of entry into the heated room.

• The pitch for laying underfloor heating pipes is 100-500 mm;

Note. When using a water heated floor as an additional (alternative) heating source, a pipe laying step of 300-500 mm is recommended. In the case of installation of a non-alternative (main) system, the pitch is reduced and amounts to 100-300 mm. If the laying step is exceeded, a “thermal zebra” effect appears, and the difference in the temperature of the floor surface is felt by the foot.

• installing thermostats will avoid overheating and reduce the cost of operating the system.

Water heated floor in the apartment from central heating

Important. Installing a heated floor system in an apartment is associated with a number of difficulties. In particular, it is necessary to submit the project to the housing office or the society of co-owners, as well as the district heating network. After approval of the project, obtain a conclusion on the possibility of installing the system. Typically, installation is permitted only in new houses where there is a separate riser for pumping out hot water (used in case of a breakthrough).

Installation of heated floors in the bathroom is allowed by connecting through the outlet to the coil from the heated towel rail. A permit is not required to heat a small area.

In addition to the installation diagram of the components, the type (type) of the underfloor heating system is selected at the design stage.

1. Concrete system. Involves filling pipes with concrete (arrangement of screed);
2. Laying system. Involves the use of wood or polystyrene flooring. In this case, there are no “wet” processes and the speed of work increases.

Stage 2 - components for heated floors

Warm water floor is complex system coolant pipes. Therefore, we list what is needed to install a heated floor (system components).

Boiler for warm water floor

The best and most common option in a private house (apartment) is connecting to a gas boiler. If the apartment does not have individual heating, you can connect to the central heating main, but the autonomy of the project is lost.

It is also possible to use electric water floors. Their peculiarity is that the heating cable is laid inside the pipe, which guarantees uniform heating of the coolant (water, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol) along the entire length of the circuit. The undoubted advantage is the possibility of installation in apartment buildings (since they are not connected to the heating main, which means there is no risk of damage to the mounting unit). But there is also a significant drawback - the high cost of electricity, which is necessary to ensure the functioning (heating) of the system.

The design power of the boiler should be 15-20% higher than the total power of all floors in the room.

Circulation pump for heated floors

Necessary to ensure the movement of coolant in the system. The pump built into the boiler will not cope with the load if the area of ​​the house exceeds 100 square meters.

Pipes for warm water floors

• copper pipes according to experts, they are considered an ideal option - durable, characterized by high heat transfer, but their cost will significantly increase the installation budget;

• metal-plastic pipes leading in terms of price/quality ratio. Their composition eliminates the occurrence of corrosion and accumulation, which leaves the diameter of the pipe flow section unchanged. Besides, metal-plastic pipes They are light in weight, bend easily and have a high temperature limit.

• polypropylene pipes They are attracted by the low price, but there is a high probability of buying a low-quality product.

• PEX pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene are reliable, but require rigid fastening, because when heated, they straighten. Users recommend reducing the mounting step of the holders when using PEX pipes by 2-3 times.

The optimal cross-section is 16-20 mm. Pipe consumption per 1 sq.m. 5-6 m.p. (with a step of 200 mm).

Note. According to reviews, users advise using only well-known brands (Uponor, Rehau).

Insulation for warm water floors

The following materials can be used as thermal insulation:

• foil polyethylene (with a minimum design thickness of the heated floor);

• expanded polystyrene. Users recommend using ready-made thermal insulation mats that have protrusions for laying pipes with a pitch of 50x50 mm;

• mineral wool. Users speak poorly of wool in the case of a concrete system due to the ability of mineral wool to absorb some of the moisture from the solution.

Advice. The thermal insulation layer (the thickness of the insulation for a heated floor) above the basement, in the basement, on the first floor in a private house should be thicker. In addition, the higher the expected coolant temperature, the thicker the thermal insulation layer needs to be made.

Heat consumption meter

Installing a heat meter in an apartment is relevant when obtaining permission to install a water-heated floor in an apartment building.

Manifold cabinet

Installed for installation of adjusting elements and joining of circuit pipes with the heat supply main.

Reinforcing mesh for heated floors

Users have different opinions regarding the installation of reinforced stacks. In general, the reinforcement mesh will further strengthen the concrete screed after laying the pipe system.

Components for the screed device

• concrete (cement, sand, water);
• damper tape 100-150 mm wide;
• fasteners for fixing pipes.

Stage 3 - installation of a warm water floor with your own hands

1. Installation of the manifold cabinet

Installation of the system begins with the installation of a manifold cabinet, the mandatory elements of which are (manifold unit): manifold, pump, air vent valve and drain outlet. The dimensions of the collector depend on its configuration. It is recommended to install the collector at an equal distance from all circuits. If it is impossible to follow this recommendation, near the longest of the contours.

Important. When installing the collector, free space is provided for bending pipes. In this case, it is not allowed to install pipes from above, only from below. This will ensure normal coolant movement. Installing a shut-off valve between the piping system and the collector will simplify maintenance of the system if necessary (prevention, draining, repair).

2. Preparing the base for heated floors

The surface is cleared of debris, differences in floor heights (slopes, elevations) are eliminated.

Thermal insulation material is laid on the prepared surface, reducing heat loss through the floor. Next, a waterproofing film is covered. Laying a damper tape eliminates the thermal expansion of the concrete screed.

Floors under water-heated floors must be leveled to ensure equal screed thickness (the key to uniform heat distribution over the surface)

3. Laying pipes for heated floors

Installation of water heated floor pipes can be performed using several methods (layout diagrams):

Snail

The pipes are laid around the perimeter of the room, tapering towards the center. It is necessary to lay pipes through a row to ensure the reverse flow of the coolant and more uniform heat transfer.

The method is used when, due to the complex configuration of the room, it is necessary to shift the center of the pipe system, as well as in rooms with an area of ​​more than 40 square meters.

Snake (loop)

In this case, the pipe from the heater runs along the outer wall, then returns back in a wave-like manner. The scheme is suitable for small spaces.

Meander (double snake or combined pattern)

The loops of the snake are arranged in parallel and allow you to organize the movement of warm and cooled coolant through the pipes. This method is good because it allows you to compensate for the cooling of the pipes.

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Advice. Craftsmen advise starting installation from the outer or colder walls of the room.

To perform the layout correctly, it is recommended that a beginner first apply markings to the floor surface. At the time of installation of heated floors in subsequent rooms, installation will be done “by eye”. For installation, only solid pipes or reliable connections are used.

Pipe laying begins by connecting one end to the supply manifold.

You can organize insulation near external walls by changing the order of the pipes, as shown in the diagram.

After laying the pipe on the designated contour, it is fixed with a clamp. Alternatively, you can use dowels and tie the pipe to them using copper wire, or lay reinforcement mesh on the floor and tie the pipe to it, allowing for thermal expansion of the materials.

The work is simplified by a ribbed polystyrene substrate under a heated water floor, the use of which simultaneously allows for thermal insulation and laying pipes in even rows.

4. Connecting the underfloor heating manifold

After laying the circuit, the free end of the pipe is connected to the return manifold.

5. Pressure testing of water heated floors

Pressure testing of pipes (hydraulic testing), this is the name given to the procedure for checking the quality of installation, because at this stage it is possible to make adjustments to the water heated floor heating system.

Pressure testing involves introducing water into the system under high pressure. The pressure recommended for testing exceeds the calculated operating pressure by 1.5-2 times (at least 0.6 MPa). In the first half hour of pressure testing, it is permissible to reduce the pressure by no more than 10%, in the next 2 - 15% of the initial value. The water temperature remains unchanged. The verification time is a day or more. If no violations are detected and the floor warms up evenly, you can continue work.

6. Screed for heated water floors

For screed can be used:

• any ready mix, a mandatory characteristic of which is the ability to conduct heat well;

• classic concrete (with cement grade of at least M 300) with the addition of a plasticizer (3-5%).

The height of the screed varies in the range of 3-7 mm. The solution is poured when the system is full (filled with coolant) with the pressure specified during pressure testing. The complete hardening time of concrete is 28 days. For the mixture, the hardening time is determined by the manufacturer.

Note. On the surface of a large area (more than 40 square meters), expansion joints are provided.

Stage 4 - first launch of water-heated floor

After the floor screed has completely hardened (dried), the system is ready to start. It will reach the specified parameters within 2-3 days.

Stage 5 - finishing of the heated floor

The fully finished heated floor is covered with finishing material. Today, the most popular flooring remains tile and laminate.

Water-based heated flooring under laminate has become widespread. However, the installation of laminate in this case is carried out with some nuances:

• The quality of the laminate must be confirmed by a certificate. After all, when it is heated, it will release into the room harmful substances. Typically, laminate flooring is labeled “Warm wasser”;

• the heat insulator does not fit under the laminate;

• Ventilation of the laminate floor is required. To do this, a gap of 10-15 mm thick is left around the perimeter, which is then covered with a plinth;

• Before laying, the laminate is placed in the room to set the floor temperature. In this case, packages with lamellas should be placed on the floor, and not stacked in one high stack.

As you can see, using laminate as a floor covering does not create any additional difficulties, but experts advise using a water-heated floor under the tiles. This is due to the fact that the laminate has low thermal conductivity (the thicker the lamella, the lower this indicator), and it also contains connectors, the fumes of which may not have the best effect on the health of the residents of the house.

How to make a water heated floor with your own hands - video

Water heated floors will last for a long time if you follow the recommendations for their use, which contain user reviews. The main requirements are as follows:

• a gradual increase in temperature is necessary. You cannot run the system at “maximum” after a period of inactivity (until the floor has completely cooled). Users recommend a stepwise increase - by 4-5 °C per day;

• the temperature of the incoming coolant should not exceed 45 °C;

• It is not recommended to turn the system on/off frequently. This will not result in additional savings;

• need to be provided optimal humidity indoors. A balanced microclimate will have a beneficial effect on human health.

Conclusion

In addition to installing a warm water floor system inside the house, you can carry out installation work outside, for example, to install a snow melting and anti-icing system (for heating pedestrian path, entrance area, porch, stairs, parking lot, etc.).

When building a private house, sooner or later the question will arise about what kind of heating system. More and more people prefer warm floor, which is designed to perfectly heat the room, thereby creating unsurpassed comfort in it.

Now apartment owners are also resorting to this type of home heating. You can install a water floor yourself, but you need to know how to make a heated floor.

Characteristics of heated floors

Underfloor heating can be called the most economical option if you have central heating. In order to install it, it is necessary to take into account a number of aspects. The essence of such horizontal heating is the endless circulation of hot water from the central heating battery along a special floor circuit.

The floor can be single or double circuit. The circuit itself is curved pipe, through which hot water passes. During circulation, the pipe heats up and intensively transfers heat to the floor covering.

In order for circulation to occur correctly and efficiently, a special pump is required. If the radiators do not have it, then it will be necessary to purchase it. Some homeowners decide to do without it by creating a slope in the circuit with their own hands, but this process is too labor-intensive and, in essence, impractical, because you can simply purchase a pump.

A system with a slope in the circuit implies circulation under the influence of physics, namely gravity. In this case, the movement of water will not have the required speed, and heating will be uneven due to the slope.

An important aspect is the calculation of the length of the contours. It depends directly on the square footage of the room. If the room is small, then one pipe will be enough. Its length should not exceed 30 meters.

If the square footage exceeds 17 sq.m., then two pipes will be required. In this case, the length of the contour should not exceed 50 meters. You can separate the contours if the length of the pipes is more than 30 and 50 meters, respectively, but they must be laid in parallel.

Preparatory work

A water heating system can be durable and extremely wear-resistant if installed according to all the rules. First of all, it is necessary to prepare the surface for drawing the contour.

• It is necessary to free the floor from the floor covering, if any, with your own hands. The subfloor must be “naked.”
• The water floor system can only be installed on a flat surface. If there are cracks or other defects on the surface, they must be eliminated with cement. The presence of distortions can be seen using a level.
• If the unevenness is insignificant, then it will be enough to fill the perimeter with an even layer of sand. Some experts recommend using quartz sand. Because this is an additional thermal insulation layer.
• The use of damper tape is an integral stage of work. It is glued to the wall along the entire perimeter of the room, as well as at the junction of the contours. This material absorbs vibrations and provides additional thermal insulation. The process of rapid heating and cooling, thanks to the damper, will not promise destruction of the screed. For the convenience and speed of this procedure, it is recommended to purchase rolls with an adhesive side. The tape is attached to the concrete using dowel nails.

Preparatory work for a water floor, this is complete, then you need to think about installing thermal insulation yourself.

Creating thermal insulation

The thermal insulation layer is necessary so that the heat from the heater does not go down into the cement screed. To create this layer you can use the most various materials, of which the most popular are:

1. Mineral wool or other fibrous filler;
2. Quartz sand;
3. Expanded clay;
4. Expanded polystyrene;
5. Branded roll insulation with asbestos.

Each of the listed materials has excellent characteristics, but different costs. If you choose budget insulation for a water floor in an apartment, you can choose mineral wool, but she is very afraid of moisture. Expanded polystyrene performs its functions perfectly, but when ignited, it emits very toxic smoke, poisoning everything around.

Expanded clay also has a low cost. If the choice fell on this particular bulk material, then you should choose fractions with a minimum number of pores and a small size. This guarantees layer density and excellent performance.

In apartment conditions, roll insulation from well-known brands is most often used. It performs its functions perfectly and, among other things, is not afraid of moisture and fire. All thanks to the presence of asbestos in the composition.

After installing the thermal insulation with your own hands, you should cover it with thick plastic film. This is necessary so that the concrete screed that will be poured heated floor heating, did not penetrate the thermal insulation.

The water circuit in the apartment should be thought out in advance. First, sheets of reinforcement are laid on plastic film. They shouldn't be too thick. Many craftsmen prefer a pattern in the form of a snake or spiral.

The distance between pipes should not be less than 15 cm. This guarantees excellent heating. If there are no severe frosts in a particular region, then the distance can be increased to 30 cm. Laying must take place in strict accordance with the plan. No overlap.

The DIY installation system must be done by two people. One pair of hands is engaged in laying the pipe, and the second is fixing it with clamps. The previously laid fittings are useful for this, because the pipe is tied to it with clamps.

The end of the circuit must be brought to the distribution point. There should also be a thermostat there. The tip of the pipe is fixed with metal sleeves. Before the first water supply, it is necessary to test the system with air in order to identify unwanted holes in the pipes.

After a thorough check of the entire system and full connection to central heating in the apartment, the screed is being poured. Its thickness depends solely on the thickness of the warm floor itself. The mixture for the screed may be different.

When creating the composition, it is necessary to strictly observe the proportions, since deviation from them can reduce the service life of the future coating. Concrete and cement mixtures They differ only in composition. Some are more suitable for rooms with high humidity, some are ready for impact low temperatures. Select the most suitable option It is recommended to consult with a knowledgeable person.

The thermostat in the apartment must be selected in advance. In the store you can see a wide range of such devices. The simplest of them are mechanical. They are easy to use and inexpensive. Automatic or touch-sensitive analogs are expensive, but they allow you to set a specific heating schedule and save the settings for several days or even months.