30.09.2008, 13:37

For the second floor we plan everything with timber.
External walls and partitions 100*150.
Outside, it’s still a 100mm miniplate and wet facade.
How load-bearing structure Is 150 enough?
It’s just not easy to pull 150*150 up.

Well, and most importantly...
Instead of moss or tow - polyurethane foam.
Those. The beams are laid on top of each other, stitched with 150 nails, between the beams there is a 100 mm long spacer, 1 cm thick, approximately every two meters.
After laying 3-4 pieces of timber, the resulting cracks are simply foamed with foam. after it expands, the gasket is knocked out - it foams or simply foams.
The beam will not rise - checked, the foam will fall out of the grooves, cut off with a simple knife.
In fact, I made a bathhouse and hesitated to break through and still the birds are dragging the dogs.

And again, there will be no moisture there on the second floor. There will be only 2.2 m of timber, then a slanting roof and a half-attic ceiling. and breaking through twice at the level of the second floor is simply not realistic - you’ll be exhausted from installing the scaffolding...
And so the consumption of foam - if it’s a professional tool - then it goes away a little.
I made floors - foamed the gaps between the boards for 40 m2 (8 * 5) - one cylinder was used.
Who will say what? Bullshit or does it make sense.
Inside it is planned to cover the entire second floor with clapboards, and outside there will be a wet facade on mineral slabs.
The first floor has brick walls, floor slabs and also a wet facade, but made of foam plastic.

30.09.2008, 13:47

30.09.2008, 15:35

I just installed wooden windows in my house 4 years ago - I don’t seem to see any problems now.

30.09.2008, 17:25

I saw a review somewhere... it’s like it’s cool, but after a while serious problems appear... I don’t remember exactly.
It was, it was... I also don’t remember where... Of the main troubles there, in my opinion, they wrote that sooner or later (in 5-10 years) the foam from the seams may simply crumble. Then there was something about the strength of the wall. Then harmful discharge from the frozen foam on the cuts...

Andrey teacher

30.09.2008, 18:03

30.09.2008, 19:09

I’m thinking differently - was such a powerful caulk needed? Is there insulation from the outer walls + wet facade?

01.10.2008, 02:01

I’m thinking differently - was such a powerful caulk needed? Is there insulation from the outer walls + wet facade? From my own experience I can say that it is not needed. Even harmful. Because the wind protection on top of the insulation itself creates sufficient protection against blowing through the wall, and the leaks between the beams help maintain moderate air exchange between the room and the atmosphere with minimal heat losses to this component general ventilation. And this part is pretty decent. In any case, with completely sealed windows, closed stove valves and closed ventilation risers in the kitchen, no stuffiness is felt in the house in winter. A wall made of timber on a liner of flax, insulation, wind protection and cladding on the outside with a blockhouse.
I also came across statements on the Internet that “If the wall “breathes”, like a wall made of timber or logs 15–20 cm thick, then heat is returned. This allows one to reduce heat losses by 30%, so the value obtained in the calculation thermal resistance walls should be multiplied by 1.3 (or heat loss should be reduced accordingly)." See [Only registered users can see links]

01.10.2008, 06:34

And so the consumption of foam - if it’s a professional tool - then it goes away a little.
According to my calculations, if the perimeter is say 8x8, the volume of cavities to be sealed will be 1m3 and it will take about 20 cylinders. 3500 rub. But that's not the main thing.
It is VERY good to foam a seam 15 cm deep and 1 cm thick! difficult. And because of the curvature of the beam, your seam will not be 1 cm everywhere, but somewhere around half a cm, somewhere around 3 cm. You’ll have a hard time with the spacers. And you can’t knock them out. The foam will be crushed over time (not immediately, but over 10 years) and the shrinkage at the seams alone will be 10 cm + the shrinkage of the timber itself.
IMHO the idea is not good.

There was an opinion that polyurethane foam destroys wood.

Dmitry Belkin

Polyurethane foam

Question

Good afternoon.

I live in Tomsk, and recently German restorers of wooden architecture came to visit us. When checking several houses restored by our specialists, they found a lot of errors. And, in particular, when installing plastic windows in wooden houses, polyurethane foam was used for installation and thermal insulation. Their verdict is that a wooden wall (wood) with a given combination of materials will collapse quite quickly. Since I myself am planning to install plastic windows in wooden house from timber in the same way, I would like to know your opinion on this issue. And if they are right, how can this be prevented or replaced. Thanks in advance for your answer.

Best regards, Alexander

The question is serious. I thought for a long time before answering. In addition, I myself installed in my wooden house plastic windows and put them on foam too.

You shouldn't have let these Germans go. They should have explained this to you. I honestly don’t know of a more neutral material than polyurethane. As far as I understand, all polyurethane foam is polyurethane. The only thing that can be assumed is that the foam somehow accumulates moisture, which does not dry out and causes accelerated rotting of the wood, but even here I very much doubt it, since the foam dries well due to its porous structure.

And one last thing. One of my neighbors in the village picked up a few years ago somewhere at a construction site of old wooden doors with boxes, apparently someone did some repairs and replaced them. These doors were installed on foam and are still lying around in his barn. So I specifically went to him and looked at what happened to these boxes under the foam. NOTHING! Complete order.

Thus, if your house rots in a hundred years, not a single expert will tell you why it happened. From foam, or from old age. Personally, I'm not going to give up foam. Maybe you just fed your Germans poorly, and they decided to take revenge on you?

I hope that among the readers of this site there will be foam experts who will express their strong opinions!

Due to the growing popularity wood construction sealing seams between logs is becoming an urgent repair task. The methods for solving it are quite diverse; they deserve attention as historical methods sealing, as well as the use of new insulating materials.

Renaissance of wooden architecture in modern construction

Throughout the 20th century, the architecture of private houses rapidly mastered various building materials in order to return in the new millennium... to time-tested traditional wood. Houses made of solid timber, buildings made of solid logs and rounded beams are not a tribute to fashion - they have solid operational advantages:

Wood is a natural and “warm” material. In terms of environmental qualities, in terms of beneficial effects on the well-being of all residents, wooden houses there are simply no competitors. It is pleasant and comfortable to be inside such a building, especially if the house is built from softwood logs;
Impeccable aesthetics and durability. A well-built log frame will last no less than a permanent stone structure, but will look unique and recognizable, unlike standard brick and concrete “boxes”;
When constructing wooden houses, external and internal finishing is laid immediately, even at the stage of wall construction. This allows you to save significant money and effort on subsequent repairs.. You don't have to perform finishing a house with metal siding from the outside, wallpaper it from the inside and plaster the facade;
The naturalness of the wood contributes to the elasticity of the joints; the mandatory sealing of cracks between the beams should not violate this quality. A certain elasticity of the logs and joints themselves allows the entire house to withstand strong temperature changes and ground fluctuations - buildings made of bricks and stone are more likely to develop cracks;
IN cosmetic repairs a wooden house needs less than others. Maintaining it in an attractive condition can hardly be called repair. Most big problem May be sealing cracks in logs– but they occur rarely and can be completely eliminated on your own. Investments in laying tiles, construction suspended ceilings, decorating the premises with plasterboard and other expensive repair “pleasures” does not require a house made of logs;
Wooden walls, even if they are made from the most massive beams, will be thinner than brick and stone ones with comparable durability and strength. This ensures a gain in the internal living space, of which there is never a lot.

Naturally, buildings made of wood have their drawbacks, otherwise they would have long ago displaced all other building materials into the dustbin of history. Firstly, log houses have a significant cost. We can say that savings on subsequent repairs are included in the capital construction estimate. Secondly, you cannot build such a house on your own - you need a proven company with a qualified staff of designers and craftsmen. Thirdly, radically change the design interior spaces And exterior finishing it won’t work, it will still have a “woody” orientation.

In addition, any wooden houses need sealing of cracks. Without such a procedure, drafts will appear in them, residents will begin to get sick, bills for the use of thermal energy will reach sky-high heights, comfort and coziness will collapse from the heavenly horizons below a narrow baseboard. How and with what to seal the seams between logs depends on the requirements for reliability, durability and the desired aesthetics of the joints between logs and beams.

Sealing seams between logs - traditional sealing options

Oddly enough, the time-tested methods of sealing joints in wooden houses remain optimal in our time. Our ancestors did not face the question of how to seal the cracks in a log house, because the correct answer grew in most forests and copses. This answer is called "natural moss". It perfectly protects joints and seams not only from wind penetration, but also from dampness. Another thing is that finding a sufficient amount of natural moss is not easy, and the sealing itself will be labor-intensive. When using natural materials to seal the gaps between timber and logs, a very high packing density is required.

It is checked with a sharp shoe awl - this tool should enter compressed moss or tow with almost the same force as into a massive log.

Tow for insulating joints in wood can be purchased at a hardware store. The purchase must be made in large quantities at once, because... even a narrow gap can “absorb” a large amount of tow. Natural moss does not need additional means of reinforcement - tow can be soaked in a liquid, flowing solution of cement or gypsum. Natural hemp provides high-quality protection for the joints between logs, and it looks attractive in appearance.

However, the cost of this material is quite high, especially considering the amount of work involved in the joint finishing of the whole wooden structure. Natural caulk for wood is optimal without additional impregnation. In this case, it can be supplemented with the following layers in a month or a year or two. Tow soaked in plaster or cement often crumbles and falls out of the cracks, and the work has to be redone. Tow, hemp and moss are hammered into the seams using a set of long chisels with varying blade widths and sharpnesses. The deeper the installation, the sharper and thinner the chisel blade used.

How to seal cracks in a log house - the possibilities of modern sealants

The main benefit of sealing joints in wood using modern sealing compounds is the speed of work. With the help of spray nozzles, the entire process can be completed in a few hours, while with tow or moss you will have to work for several days. Required condition the use of synthetic sealants is a complete shrinkage of the house - and this occurs only 8-12 months after the completion of capital construction.

Whatever sealing compound you choose, it will fly out of the new cracks within a month or two. It turns out that synthetic sealing is only possible if the house is uninhabited - you won’t endure drafts and frost inside it for a whole year, right? Sealing seams between logs is categorically incompatible with polyurethane foam and silicone and polyurethane sealants. They are destroyed by exposure to sunlight and do not prevent wood from rotting.

Combining them with natural moss, hemp and tow is also prohibited; such a “hybrid” compound has unacceptably low strength. Synthetic sealant for joints and cracks between logs should be elastic, similar in consistency to glass putty. It is better to select the right brand in accordance with the type of wood and according to the recommendations of the company that built your house. If builders recommend natural caulking, alas, you will have to come to terms with this and engage in the labor-intensive procedure of protecting your home.

If you manage to find the optimal synthetic sealant for wooden buildings, then you need to use it in conjunction with mounting tape. By gluing the logs/beams on the sides of the gap, you can effectively protect the wood from unnecessary sealing. Excess applied sealant is removed immediately with a rag, without waiting for it to harden into monolithic beads.

Are you interested in how to lay profiled timber when building a house? You will learn about this from this article.

The timber used in construction is a material with many advantages. For example, a house made from it is built an order of magnitude faster than a similar structure made from rounded logs. It is also initially aesthetically more attractive, and therefore a house built from such material practically does not need additional finishing.

Wall length

Wall width

Wall height

Beam section

150x150 mm. 180x180 mm. 200x200 mm.

Beam length

5 m. 6 m. 7 m. 8 m. 9 m. 10 m. 11 m. 12 m.

Due to the cuts, air voids are formed in the walls during the assembly process. Due to the presence of voids, walls assembled from profiled or laminated timber are characterized by lower thermal conductivity compared to structures made from logs or traditional timber, the price of which is more affordable.

An important point before construction timber house, is the calculation of the amount of building material that may be required when building a house. When calculating the amount of timber, it should be understood that it is practically not deformed. Therefore, as much as you calculate, so much material will go away, and you won’t have to buy more due to shrinkage of the walls.

Stage-by-stage execution of work

So, how to lay timber when building a house?

Preparation of material

Now is the time to talk about how to lay timber on a foundation? As the instructions say, before you begin installation, you need to take care of its waterproofing. Waterproofing is laid in two layers or more.

A backing board is placed on the waterproofing, and then another layer of waterproofing or bitumen mastic. As waterproofing, double-laid roofing material or a single installation of “glass insulation” is used. Properly installed waterproofing should be approximately 25 cm larger than the width of the foundation around the entire perimeter.

Tip: before laying waterproofing, make sure that the foundation surface is horizontal.
In order to check the horizontalness of the foundation, a water level is used.
The maximum permissible difference should not exceed 1 cm.
If the water level shows a greater difference, the surface is leveled with a layer of additional waterproofing or concrete.

A quick guide to laying timber

When starting to lay the first crown of a house made of timber, you should act in accordance with mathematical calculations. Your main task is installation, in which adjacent walls the houses will stand at an angle of 90 degrees relative to each other. Before laying the first layer, we carry out markings, the accuracy of which will determine the operation of the finished house.
Along the perimeter of the walls being built for waterproofing, at a distance of no more than 60 cm from each other, we place wooden slats . The first beams are laid on top of the slats.
The slats laid on the foundation are needed to prevent contact of wood with the waterproofing and foundation. The use of slats will not significantly increase the cost of the finished construction project, but will significantly extend its operational life. The gap between the foundation and the timber will prevent rotting of the wood.
It is no secret that the correct laying of the entire wall depends on how horizontal the surface of the first beam is.. Therefore, before laying a house from timber, choose the most even ones that will go on the first row.
Determine the horizontal position of the installation using a water level fixed to a standard flat beam at least 1.5 meters long.

Wood treated with fire retardant and antiseptic is laid according to the markings. It is mandatory to fasten the lower beams with staples or nails. After the first row is laid out, the gap formed at the bottom must be filled with polyurethane foam.
When laying the beams, we place them in such a way that they come into contact with each other as tightly as possible. In places of contact, voids and gaps are unacceptable, since these areas of the structure will be subject to a significant mechanical shrinkage effect.
If during the installation process you notice that the timber is not straight, its installation is carried out with the hump up. This solution allows it to be straightened during the shrinkage process. Walls with several jointed beams are laid out with the obligatory use of laces.

Types of beam connections

The most important structural unit When assembling a timber box with your own hands, there is a corner connection (Fig. 1).

Most often, the following option is used - the ends of adjacent beams are cut into half a tree, overlapped and fastened. This type of connection, despite its apparent simplicity, should be assembled with extreme caution. Errors in assembly, made due to low quality, or due to inaccuracy in the selection of wood at the ends of the beams, provoke heat loss during operation of the finished house.
If you plan to build a heat-saving house, use a “bowl” connection or, as it is also called, a “cup” connection. But due to the complexity of implementation, such a connection is used mainly on structures made of laminated veneer lumber.
The most popular corner connection is made “in a dressing with a root tenon.” The marking and preparation of the nodes of such a connection is simple. If errors occur when selecting a groove, it’s time to wonder what to put between the beams. The lack of wood is compensated by an inter-crown seal, which is placed in the resulting gap.
When building houses, miter joints are sometimes used. The strength of the connection is ensured by a hidden spike " dovetail" This is perhaps the warmest type of connection. Moreover, corners made in this way are aesthetically attractive. But the problem is that you can make it yourself connecting elements with such a complex configuration is not possible.

Advice: the beams should be laid taking into account their vertical orientation.
The timber may have a slight difference in cross-sectional dimensions.
The larger one is laid first in the lowest row, and with a smaller section size - up.
The wall is not equal to the outside, but to the inside, since here the uniformity and aesthetics of the surface are more important.

Fastening beams

The beams are fastened together using metal or wood. The pins are driven with a sledgehammer into the timber approximately 30 mm or more. To ensure that the dowels do not protrude above the surface, they should be finished off with a wooden mallet.

To ensure maximum connection strength, the dowels are placed in a checkerboard pattern. Curved beams are laid out with the straight side facing down so that during shrinkage the curvature is leveled out and at the same time so that the dowels do not get torn out.

Laying down. It would be optimal to use insulation with a thickness of at least 5 mm. Its laying is done in grooves, evenly without bends.

Conclusion

Here, in a nutshell, is everything you need to know about styling. More detailed information You will find information on this topic in the video in this article.

For many years, builders have been experimenting in search of a technologically advanced way to connect logs in a log house with a minimum of cracks. The log should sit “saddle” on a log perpendicular to the wall. To do this, it is necessary to build walls with a shift of half the diameter of the log. Therefore, a log (from a log sawn lengthwise in half) is placed at the base, which is secured to the foundation with anchors. The bench is separated from the subfloor by two layers of dense, closed-cell polyethylene foam, each 6 mm thick. Polyethylene foam serves as both wind protection and waterproofing.

Use of polyurethane foam in construction and repair

Among the considerable number of tools in demand in everyday life for almost every homeowner, there is an inexpensive and simple instrument- gun for polyurethane foam.

Is it possible to do without it?

In principle, yes. The reader probably knows that there are cans of polyurethane foam for household use. In this case, the use of polyurethane foam is possible without the use of mounting gun. But my personal experience working with such cylinders (installation seam in the photo on the left), as well as subsequent experience in performing work with a mounting gun (installation seam in the photo on the right) gave me the following thoughts:
1. Using polyurethane foam without a gun, even when performing work infrequently but quite regularly, is “more expensive” in terms of money, quality and time.
For example, when performing the work shown in the photo on the left, I used three household cylinders (door frame width 300 mm). At the same time, it is very difficult to ensure uniformity of the assembly seam and subsequent quality. The photo on the right shows the construction seam obtained when a foam gun was used. The assembly seam turned out to be of better quality; one cylinder was enough to complete the job.

2. Taking into account the price ratio (currently) for mounting guns and mounting foam, the issue from the point of view of cost savings is also in favor of using a mounting gun, since the gun will pay for itself after using three or four cylinders of mounting foam.
So, the only thing left to do is to choose and buy a mounting gun from the countless variety that are on the shelves, and at the same time not make a mistake with the purchase. But at first it's very brief information for those who have not used this tool.
Note: this certificate is given for the correct perception of the text material in the article. Basic structural elements mounting gun (and their purpose) are shown in the figure below.

foam gun photo

Considering that the pistol usually comes with instructions, the information presented above will be sufficient to read and understand the article.

Cover or “panel”?

Often, purchasing a plot with log house, the new owners are in a hurry to cover it with bricks. This strengthens the structure and makes it more solid. However, many people often make the same mistake. Without calculating that the weight from stone walls is not intended for the foundation of a wooden structure (which may not exist underneath them at all!), you risk experiencing significant shrinkage in the foreseeable future, which may result in cracks in the walls of the house. This also happens because it “breathes”, which means its walls can “walk” due to temperature changes in different seasons year. This is especially noticeable where the transition from season to season is very sharp. Subsequently, for the same reasons described above, it will be unsafe to try to build on a brick second floor.

In order to avoid such problems, consult with specialists and carry out all reconnaissance activities before restructuring. By the way, cosmetic cladding of a house can be done without resorting to brick, but using modern panel materials. Plastic exterior panels are much lighter than brick, look nice, and protect your home well from rain and snow. In addition, covering a house with panels is incomparably cheaper and faster than with bricks. The main thing is to lay an air cushion between the house and the sheets of panels: the panels are attached to the sheathing, which is made on the outside wooden wall. By the way, in the case of brick lining wooden house needed air gap, which, meanwhile, is done differently.

Insulation of a wooden house

The opportunity to buy on credit has significantly expanded the number of owners of wooden houses. A wooden house is warm, cozy, beautiful, but besides good properties, the tree is susceptible to drying out, pest damage, and cracking. Therefore, over time it is necessary to carry out insulation work.

You need to start insulation with a thorough external inspection. It is necessary to identify all the cracks and holes from which the cold air, and then seal them. Particular attention should be paid to the corners - this is where damage is most likely to occur.
You can use polyurethane foam or polyurethane sealants if you have a house made of laminated veneer lumber - this material has passed the necessary heat treatment, not subject to drying out. If this is a log house, then such a wooden house is constantly in “movement”. Therefore, literally in six months the foam will collapse and the work will have to be done again.

The most reliable and proven method for eliminating cracks in a wooden house is caulk. Our grandfathers used this method. For caulking, it is best to use tow and finish with hemp rope.

Supporters environmental solutions can use dry swamp moss– an excellent material for sealing cracks and crevices. The only problem will be to assemble required quantity moss if the amount of work is large. For log houses it is necessary to use interventional insulation, which is used as felt, linen or jute tow. For a house made of timber, the thickness of the insulation can be 10-15 mm, and for a house made of timber it should be up to 25 mm.

The next step will be to insulate the ceiling. It is to the ceiling that the air heated by the stove or radiators rushes. There it cools and falls along the walls to the floor. Good decision The ceiling is insulated using polystyrene foam. You can also use mineral wool.

When choosing a material, it should be taken into account that in addition to insulation, the material will block the passage of moisture through the ceiling, so the use of foil material is not recommended - this will lead to the formation of condensation on the ceiling and disrupt the natural atmosphere inside the house, which can lead to fungi. Any waterproofing should be placed under the thermal insulation layer, and not vice versa.

When insulating walls special attention need to look at the windows. It blows especially often from junctions window frame with a wall. It is recommended to caulk the outside or use polymer sealants. If the windows are wooden, then periodic painting not only refreshes appearance, but also gives additional tightness to the window.

It is better to use double-glazed windows. Glass must be placed in a frame, on silicone sealant. This will guarantee that cold air will not blow from the window in winter. Great solution– plastic windows. This is the only way to achieve complete tightness.

If serious insulation of the house is required, then they are used insulation materials (mineral wool, slabs of basalt fiber, etc.), decorated on top with finishing materials.

Sometimes a log house is covered with bricks, if the foundation allows. But in this case, all the beauty of a wooden house is lost. Best option– construction of a glass veranda. This will create a buffer zone of air while preserving the natural beauty of the tree.

Insulating your home should not be put off until the winter. It's better to carry out all the necessary renovation work in the summer, and in the cold season just enjoy the coziness and comfort of your home.

Sealing and insulation of the crowns of a wooden house.

Despite the large number of modern building materials, many prefer to use for individual construction tree. Wooden houses undoubtedly have their advantages: reasonable price, environmental friendliness, beautiful appearance. But there are also disadvantages. Wood becomes very deformed when exposed to moisture, dries out and cracks. Constant movements of the foundation, which occur at any time of the year, also lead to an increase in the size of the seams between the crowns of a wooden house. Ultimately, the wooden structures of the house lose their tightness and begin to let cold air and moisture inside. The problem can only be solved with the help of a professional wood sealant. Some people mistakenly believe that foam, putty, or any sealant can be used to seal wooden structures. In fact, selecting a sealant for wood is a rather serious task.

Wood sealant must have high elasticity. Polyurethane foam does not have this property; therefore, with subsequent deformation of wooden structures, they will not be able to provide sufficient tightness.

Silicone, polyurethane, thiokol, butyl rubber sealants and mastics do not have good adhesion to wood. They do not have the required degree of deformability and, moreover, do not match the color of wood well. Additionally, many of these sealants cannot be used indoors.

Accordingly, the ideal sealant for wood is an acrylic sealant with a high degree of deformability. Of the sealants presented in our company’s assortment, the one that is best suited for this job is acrylic sealants for wood Atacamast 125 and Rustil-acrylic for wood. These sealants have high deformability and excellent adhesion to wood. If you need to repair cracks in wooden structures at home, or fill the joints between the wall of a wooden house and window block, door frame and so on, then our wood sealant is the ideal solution.

Now let's move on to the issue of insulation and sealing of the crown joints of a wooden house from the outside. Let us immediately note that it is better to carry out this work after the initial shrinkage of the house, that is, on next year, after laying the walls of the house. Before using wood sealant, you need to fill the gaps between the logs with insulation. For these purposes, a Vilaterm or Izodom tourniquet of the required cross-section and diameter is best suited. It performs several important functions at once.
First, it is a filler that reduces the consumption of wood sealant.
Secondly, the tourniquet improves the thermal insulation of the inter-crown seam.
Thirdly, a bundle made of foam material acts as an anti-adhesive gasket, which ensures that the wood sealant adheres to only two points - on the edges of adjacent logs.

Sealants Atacamast 125 and Rustil-acrylic for wood do not stick to the sealing gasket, because has adhesion only to wood. Consequently, if you fill the seam between the crowns with a Vilaterm (Izodom) type harness, then the layer of sealant will be, as it were, stretched over the sealing gasket and secured along the edges to the logs. Why is this necessary? Because without such insulation, wood sealant penetrates into the gap and sticks to inner surface logs This effect is called: three-point adhesion. If the logs become deformed, then the sealant that has filled the entire internal space of the seam will simply come off one of the logs and all your work will be useless.

It should also be noted that before starting work, the seams should be cleaned of dust, varnish, old paint, it is also better to lightly sand them. It is better to carry out work at moderately warm air temperatures (about +20°C). Very hot weather The surface should be slightly moistened. To ensure that the seam is even, use construction tape.

Let's sum it up! The main tasks that our technology for sealing a wooden house solves:

Elimination of seam leaks.
Protection from negative destruction of harmful insects.
Durability. Serves for 20 years.
Elimination of re-caulking.
Preventing birds from pulling away the insulation.
Beauty and aesthetics.
Reduces heat loss.
Keeps your home environmentally friendly.

Thus, with one shot you kill 8 birds with one stone. A tube of sealant costs 310 rubles 900 grams, it is enough for about 15 m.p.

Features in the construction of wooden houses

Requires a different approach than stone. There should be practically no rigid fastenings in it so that all elements wooden log house had the opportunity to shift relative to each other during the process of shrinkage or swelling of the log. When designing a wooden house, you need to take into account the diameter and length of the log that will be used. A rounded log extends no more than 6 m, which imposes some restrictions on the layout. If you need a room large sizes, then you have to make a false joint of the log, the so-called cross, which extends 20 cm from the wall. But, in principle, this method allows you to make quite large premises. Compensation gaps in a wooden house are also taken into account at the design stage. When designing, it is necessary to adhere to the modules characteristic of wooden housing construction - 1.1 m and 1.2 m (module industrial buildings– 6 m).

Based on the module, all buildings are calculated. Minimum thickness external walls in a wooden house for our climatic conditions- 18 cm, but it is better to make 20 or 24 cm, depending on the breed and. The calculation of loads in the project must be carried out with the utmost care, otherwise the joists will play and the floor will creak. Shrinkage of logs in a wooden house occurs not only in the transverse, but also in the longitudinal direction. Transverse shrinkage is compensated by shrinkage of the log house, but in the process of longitudinal shrinkage, the ends of the logs at the places where they join diverge, and cracks form between them over time. Therefore, such places in a wooden house must be designed in place of the cuts so that they are covered with a thermal lock. Dowels and tongue-and-groove connections do not solve the problem, because during the shrinkage process gaps are formed, which after assembling the log house you can no longer get close to in order to further seal them. Not to mention how visible joints of logs spoil the facade of a wooden house.

Layout: bigger is better than smaller. A wooden house on paper and on the site does not always look the same. You may like a wooden house in a catalog of projects, but when it is built, the customer says that this is not what he wanted. For example, a 9 m2 kitchen in the project seems quite spacious. And when the house is built, it turns out that there is no place to turn around - such a kitchen is little larger than those that exist; in city apartments it is recommended to make kitchens of 15-20 m2. It is also advisable to provide three bedrooms in a wooden house - two for the owners and one guest. Optimal area wooden house for a family of four - 150 m2, it makes no sense to do less. Others, starting to build a wooden house, easily take on the role of the demiurge of their native monastery and begin to create. In 90% of cases, some changes are made to the project during construction.

At the same time, redesigning a project must be done wisely. Sometimes doing it the way the client wants is dangerous for the structure of a wooden house or directly contradicts Building codes and rules. If, despite admonitions, the future homeowner insists on his own, construction company, as a rule, makes concessions, but at the same time relieves itself of responsibility for possible negative consequences and takes a receipt from the client. Only a competent architect will help you avoid design mistakes. Of course, his services are not cheap, but main problem not even in this, but in finding one. Especially for a wooden house.

Many companies can only sketch a sketch of a house based on the wishes of the customer. Then it is transferred to a specialized design company - it makes all the calculations and develops a working design according to which a wooden house can be built. Less capricious in this regard (at home Canadian technology). Even if mistakes were made during their design (or there was simply a desire to change something), they can be corrected during construction: the wall can be unscrewed, moved to another location and reassembled.

Two words about the foundation Most common mistake when laying the foundation of a wooden house, its design does not coincide with the design of the log house according to the project. In general, a wooden house is not very fancy in terms of foundations, since it is almost 2 times lighter than a brick one. Now many people are building a wooden house not even on strip foundation, and on a columnar one - along the perimeter of the future building (at the main points where the load occurs), pipes are dug into the ground and concreted and a house is placed on them. This can significantly reduce the cost of construction. Shrinkage, shrinkage, shrinkage To provide for shrinkage is the most important duty and the first sign of a competent architect.

It's no secret that shrinkage in a wooden house natural humidity happens for two reasons. The first is drying of the logs (shrinkage 5-8% depending on the initial humidity). For example, a log with a diameter of 240 mm may lose 10-20 mm by the end of shrinkage. The second is the collapse of logs under the weight of the load and the opening of cracks (up to 2%). Thus, the total shrinkage amount is 6-10%, sometimes up to 15%. Type of raw material Shrinkage Raw up to 7% (i.e. for every meter - 7 cm of shrinkage) Glued laminated timber 1% Visible shrinkage in a wooden house occurs during the first two years. Each floor will shrink by 10-20 cm. For example, if you built walls 3 m high, then in a year they will become 2.8 m.

And the shrinkage, invisible to the eye, will continue for another 10 years, but it will be quite insignificant. Therefore, when constructing openings in a wooden house for windows and doors, it is necessary to provide a margin, otherwise, when the house shrinks, the door or window will simply be “crushed”, the frame may warp, even to the point that the glass will break. If in the corners of a wooden house the logs are joined “into a cup”, then at the notches of the cups it is also necessary to allow for shrinkage. If this is not done, then when the logs dry out, they will “hang” and gaps will form between them.
By the way, SNiPs allow the use of wood with a moisture content of no more than 25%, while in practice wooden houses are often built from raw logs with a moisture content of 30-40%. In wooden houses made from solid wood, a device is necessary seat, gap, in window and doorways- from 6 to 10 cm. The building sits on these 6-10 cm. For laminated veneer lumber, these gaps are 3-4 cm. Glued laminated timber shrinks during the process of gradual loading; by the time the wooden house is finally installed, it is completely shrinked.

Wooden houses are alive, whether from fresh sawn wood or from laminated veneer lumber. A solid wood house, having finally dried and settled after 3 years, having a humidity of 18%, constantly gives and takes away moisture from 3 to 5%, depending on what climatic zone you are in and how the walls are protected. " Interior decoration it cannot be done in a wooden house in damp weather (especially in winter and autumn). The tree will definitely take 3-4% moisture from environment, and when they turn it on in a wooden house, cracks will appear.

In addition, a wooden house must stand: a box with a roof (but without windows so that it can be ventilated) must stand for six months to a year, then with windows for another six months. In total, you can move in only after 2 years." Tricks on the terrace Throughout the entire period of shrinkage, a wooden house needs to be "tightened." It's good if the builders made consoles and expansion joints - then once a year the owner himself can take the key and tighten it or call specialists from the company that built the wooden house, workers from hired teams usually do not make these compensators, which leads to negative consequences. Vertical structures (pillars, columns) are another vulnerable point in a wooden house during shrinkage. A terrace is often built in a wooden house, supported, of course, by pillars.

Special anchor bolts with a power reserve of up to 10 cm must be drilled into these pillars, which must be tightened during the shrinkage process in a wooden house. Without this, there is a high probability that the roof will simply slide to the side. The same goes for columns inside a wooden house. If you install pillars without compensators, it will turn out that one half of the wooden house has collapsed, and the second is blocked by the pillar. And the wooden house will become skewed. The crews that built it are usually out of range by this time.

This is usually followed by a call to specialists from construction company(and they are reluctant to respond, since they have enough clients of their own who need to be “twisted” in time). As a result, due to the negligence of unscrupulous workers, a prejudice arises that a wooden house is bad. Do no harm... with metal In Rus' they have always built only wood with wood. If needed vertical elements for fastening logs, they used so-called dowels - thick wooden nails. To date, nothing better has been invented than them. If a wooden house is assembled by non-professionals, they can knock down the logs with iron fittings. The moisture contained in the air and in the log house is quite enough for the metal to begin to rust (especially since the humidity at the bottom of the wall is greater than at the top).

In turn, this will cause rotting of the wood, especially the first 2-3 crowns. Therefore, it is better to drill the first crown of a wooden frame to the foundation with a stainless thread, and then use dowels. Or make the first 2-3 crowns from larch - it is so resistant to moisture that it is even used in shipbuilding. True, it is not cheap: there is very little of it in Ukraine and it is mainly imported from Russia. fasten wooden beam it is possible to connect to the foundation using galvanized ferrous metal. In wood, which shrinks less, you can use metal ties. They cannot be used in a wooden house made of rounded logs; they can only be added as separate elements. It is also not recommended to connect logs in a wooden house on one cut along the entire height of the wall in more than three crowns. In this place, the floors may sag over time.

In a proper log house, all the logs should be connected in a checkerboard pattern, intertwined, like a vine in a wicker basket. Only in this case will a wooden house begin to shrink evenly and be as strong and durable as possible. Nagel - it is necessary! The structure of a wooden frame is held in place by oak dowels, a hole is drilled in the log for them, and the dowels are driven into 3 logs. This makes it possible for the wood not to wander. Some people mess around and hammer in nails; when drying, it turns out that the logs “hang” like a kebab on a skewer. Connecting logs using dowels is a labor-intensive process, so workers sometimes don’t insert them at all. Improper fastening of the dowels can also cause the wall to sag (bend outward). And no polyurethane foam!

Wood – 100% natural material. The insulation materials placed between the logs in the log house should be the same. This could be flax, tow, moss (although it is more common in Russia, but is practically not used in Ukraine). As a last resort - padding polyester: it is a neutral material. But, under no circumstances should you blow foam between the logs - who needs an environmentally friendly wooden house with added chemicals?

Window cases In any wooden house, gaps are needed between load-bearing structures and enclosing structures. For example, walls, windows, doors cannot fit closely, otherwise they will simply be torn. If a wooden house is built from solid wood, as soon as a window or doorway is cut down, it is necessary to make guides in it. A groove is made at the vertical end, 35 mm wide, into which guides are inserted - metal pipe. The window or door frame. They compensate for possible provocations of the log.

In practice, it turns out that cutting a window in a wooden house is a task that not everyone can do. When installing corner connections make many mistakes if grooves and locks are cut on the spot. Therefore, it is better that they are made at the factory. Windows are installed in a wooden house often using technology designed for brick houses: put it on a rigid mount, blow it with foam, cover it with a platband - and everything is in order.

This is a grave mistake, even if the windows are metal-plastic. "Application polyethylene film on top of insulation in the windows of a wooden house is unacceptable, since it does not allow air to penetrate. Instead, it is necessary to insert into the gap between the frame and the hole for the window mineral insulation, and then cover it with special paper, and then put on the casing. Today few people use it, but it must be demanded. And under no circumstances should you use polyurethane foam.