This type of repair work, such as installing electrical sockets and switches, often causes difficulties for a person who has never dealt with them. However, such a need, although not often, still arises. Electrical sockets and switches are installed in a new room, or if it is necessary to replace old and worn ones with new ones.

The electrical outlet is designed to safely connect electrical appliances to the power supply.
There are overhead or external sockets and internal ones. Recently, internal sockets have become more popular, as they have a more aesthetic and modern look.

The switch is designed to interrupt and connect an electrical circuit, to turn on and off various devices. Switches are mainly used to control electrical lighting in a room. Switches are often used to control other household appliances such as a water heating boiler, circulation pump heating systems, kitchen hoods and so on.

The specifics of installation of sockets and switches largely depend on the material from which the walls in the room are built or lined.
The most common wall materials are concrete, brick and facing material in the form of plastic panels and plasterboard.

Installation of sockets and switches in a brick wall.
For installation of sockets and switches in brick or concrete wall you will need an impact drill with a special attachment for drilling holes large diameter, screwdriver and pliers.

By using impact drill a socket for a socket of the appropriate size is prepared. The socket can be disassembled using a screwdriver. The removed cable is connected to a socket or switch according to the instructions for it. Then the socket is seated in its place and secured using specially provided clamps.

After this, the socket is put back together.

Installation of sockets and switches in a plastic wall.
Installing sockets in tiled walls is a little simpler than the previous one, but also requires a little effort and caution. To make holes in plastic panels and drywall, you can use a utility knife or electric jigsaw. For plastic or drywall, special attachments are available for sawing large diameter holes in it. You also need to buy a special installation box.

When choosing a location for sockets, you should consider what facing material there is a metal profile that may interfere with installation. To determine the location of the profile, you can press down the wall with your hand in several places. By how the wall springs, you can determine the approximate location of the profile.
Just as in the case with brick wall, the socket is disassembled, connected to the output cable and mounted in its seat. After that she gets ready.

Installation of electrical points (sockets and switches) in plastic slopes is a safe and useful solution, of course, if all stages of installation are followed, reports the OKNA MEDIA portal.

Modern window sills are much wider than their predecessors and therefore many use them to install electrical appliances: kettles, microwave ovens, humidifiers and others. It is also convenient to place on the windowsill mobile phone during charging so that it is at hand. In such a situation, a problem arises with the power source, especially if there are several electrical appliances. Installing sockets in slopes is great solution in this situation. For convenience, experts recommend integrating not only sockets, but also switches into window slopes.

A logical question that many will ask themselves is how safe it is, whether it will short-circuit, because condensation can collect under the slope, and so on.

According to experts, water does not conduct electricity; salt, which is dissolved in water, does. Condensation that may form on the contacts does not conduct electricity because it is actually distilled water. In addition, condensation is formed under the influence of temperature differences, and inside under the slope the temperature is exactly the same as in the room. Therefore, the probability of condensation on metal contacts is negligible.

The rain won't flood them either. Because if rain gets into the apartment, it means that the sash is open, but it opens towards the slope, that is, it completely protects the outlet. And rain is also distilled water, therefore, as stated professional builder Alexey Zemskov, even if the rain floods the apartment to the ceiling, there will be no short circuit.

Likewise, there is no need to be afraid that the sockets will heat up and the slope will catch fire. Any modern electrics are made in such a way that the machine will turn off much earlier than the cable and contacts from this outlet heat up. In case the whole apartment old wiring and two machines, then for general safety it must either be repaired or replaced.

Installing electrical wiring in slopes is surprisingly simple, logical and quick. First of all, a power cable is laid behind the false wall in advance, even at the stage of its assembly, which simply hangs from the old slope. Next, plasterboard is installed on this frame, puttied, covered with wallpaper for painting and painted.

Window slopes installed at the very end. To begin with, the plastic slope should be cut out and tried on, and then removed and foam applied to its back. When the mounting foam hardens slightly, the slope must be tried on again. If the foam prevents you from pressing it tightly, then it is crushed or trimmed.

After this, you need to cut holes in the slope panel for future electrical points (sockets and switches), and pull the cable through them. Then you should apply a little fresh foam to the already dried foam. polyurethane foam so that the slope is securely glued to window opening. And only after this the panel is secured.

This is very important stage, which cannot be ignored under any circumstances. The panel must be glued to the slope so that when you pull out the plug from the socket, the slope does not bend, deform the foam seam, or tear off the sealant located along the window sill.

The most important thing: to secure the socket box, you do not need any foam or alabaster; you need a special socket box for hypocardboard. It differs from the usual ones by the presence of special claws that clamp the panel very well. The main task of the master is to install the slope correctly and correctly, as well as securely fasten the panel. The socket boxes will stay in place automatically. WINDOWS MEDIA recommends watching, as always, a dynamic and interesting video about installing electric points in plastic slopes with the participation of the inimitable Alexey Zemskov.

An integral part of any major renovation is the installation of sockets. According to all the rules at this stage A box for an outlet is required, which is one of the main elements of installation and is a guarantee of safety.

It is mounted directly into the wall, followed by wiring and connecting the socket to the mains. If necessary, this simple electrical element allows you to repair or replace the outlet.

Socket boxes and their purpose

Not many people know what a socket box is and what it is needed for. This question may arise only if repairs with a change in wiring are necessary. But the solution to the problem usually depends on experienced builders. A small repair involving changing the installation boxes for sockets can be done independently.

The socket box is usually presented original glass made of metal or plastic, fixed in a hole made in the wall. Necessary for the internal location of the socket mechanism. Switches are also installed in it. From above, the entire structure is covered with a decorative frame, which makes the socket boxes invisible to the eye, which is why not everyone knows about them.

And not everyone understands why you can’t just place the outlet directly into the wall without a box. First of all, it is necessary that the socket complex is assembled with high quality and works perfectly.

Other purposes of socket boxes include:

Guarantee of strong fixation of the mechanisms of sockets, switches and similar devices. The fastening function is usually performed by screws of the socket box or spacer legs of the installed devices.
Acts as an additional dielectric insulator between the socket (switch) and the wall of the room.
Performing the distribution function. boxes when installing electrical wiring without it.
Provides additional protection against accidental fire.

In order for the mounting box for sockets and switches to correspond to the listed functions, you should make a responsible choice. In the future, this will serve as a guarantee for the uninterrupted operation of devices and the electrical network.

Choosing the right boxes for sockets

Boxes designed to accommodate sockets and similar devices are divided into several types. Such a classification is necessary for their proper installation and subsequent implementation of the purposes listed above.

There are a number of classification parameters, among which several main ones should be highlighted.

By type of installed surface

Socket boxes may be necessary for installation in various rooms, made from different materials. It can be brick, concrete, foam blocks or aerated concrete.

According to this parameter, their design may differ in some way. For example, a box for mounting in plasterboard has additional tabs for secure fastening.

According to the material of manufacture

Socket boxes can be plastic or metal. To install the box, the first option is usually used, which has a wide range of models and shapes:

Round - received widespread. It’s easy to make a hole in the wall for them and pick up necessary groups installation devices.
Oval - characterized by the presence of a large amount of space, which allows you to make a supply of wires necessary for mounting devices and the disconnection process. If necessary, you can purchase boxes that can accommodate up to 5 mechanisms.
Square - they have a large amount of space for wires and allow the installation of dimmer elements, “ smart home"and a number of other devices. Capable of holding up to 4 mechanisms.

Metal socket boxes are not widely used because they are conductors of electric current. But this is the option of choice in houses made of wood.

By number of sockets

Single boxes designed for mounting single sockets are in demand. But boxes for placing 2, 3 and 4 sockets are also gaining popularity. The distance (center-to-center) in such socket boxes is 71 mm in accordance with the standards.

It is customary to subdivide boxes by size - internal diameter and depth (40 - 60 mm). Additionally there is an installation diameter (60, 64 and 68 mm). The best option The choice is the socket box, which has a diameter of 68 mm and a depth of 42 mm. If it is necessary to carry out wiring without distribution boxes, a depth of 60 mm is suitable.

List of necessary tools

When carrying out large-scale repair work necessary list tools are usually at hand. But even minor repairs require preliminary selection of tools.

For installation of the liver socket box necessary tools should be presented as follows:

Level with pencil and compass. Necessary for marking the walls and subsequent alignment of the block of boxes for sockets (if installation is necessary).
Drill. Required for making holes for boxes. The drill will need crowns for drilling - if they are missing, a concrete drill will do. If you don’t have a drill, a hammer drill or grinder will do.
Hammer with chisel. They will be needed at the stage of forming holes to knock out excess pieces of the wall.
Spray. It will be needed during drilling to water the crown, it will prevent cracking tiles and prevent dust from flying away.
Spatula (trowel). Necessary at the stage of attaching boxes.

Additionally, you will need a solution of alabaster, cement or gypsum for reliable fixation boxes in the wall. Dowels are often needed for this purpose. Do not forget about socket outlets, the presence of which must be ensured before performing the listed actions.

Installation of socket boxes in rooms made of various materials

The process of installing the box should be treated responsibly, since the reliability of fixing the sockets and subsequent work directly depends on this.

Depending on the wall material, the installation procedure has some characteristic differences.

Concrete

Concrete is one of the most common materials for indoor walls, so the installation of socket boxes in this case is worked out to the smallest detail:

Carrying out marking. A serious stage, especially when installing several socket boxes, where the same level of location is especially important.
Making holes. The diameter of the holes for sockets must exceed the diameter of the installed socket box by 5 mm. The easiest way to do this is with a crown or a pobedite tip. You need to drill holes around the perimeter of the marked circle and knock out the inside (if you don’t have a hammer drill or a drill, you can use a grinder), making rectangular holes in the wall, covering the corners with mortar.
Trying on the box. Proper installation must be made flush, so do not forget to check how freely the cables pass through the pre-prepared holes.
Installation process. You need to place a layer of putty in the hole so that the glass fits. After installation, you need to leave everything for a few minutes for the solution to set, after which you need to remove the unnecessary part from the wall.

If the fixation is insufficient, the socket box should be additionally secured with dowels.

Brick

Mounting boxes for sockets in brickwork similar to installation in concrete, but there are a number of nuances.

The boxes should be installed with outside the walls are flush. It is necessary to take into account that an additional layer of plaster and sometimes tiles (kitchen, bathroom) will be laid on the wall. It will be difficult to calculate in advance how many mm the socket box should be pulled out from the wall or tile.

You can use the following scheme:

make a recess (diamond, pobedite);
hide the wire in the hole and cover it with a lid (for example, made of cardboard);
putty the wall, remembering the location of the future outlet (if necessary, lay tiles);
proceed to the first stage of installation of the socket box (after the tile adhesive and plaster have dried), carefully drilling holes at the required coordinates.

The subsequent stages of installation should be carried out by analogy with the installation of socket boxes in concrete.

Gas silicate

When installing socket boxes in gas silicate blocks It's worth preparing for a lot of dust. You need to use a vacuum cleaner.

Since plaster, putty for painting or wallpaper are used in finishing walls made of gas silicate, the step-by-step installation of socket boxes is similar to that when installing them in brick walls. The only caveat is that the holes should be made with a drill with an inventory drill. An impact drill should not be used.

Depending on the material, the installation process will differ. The most important thing is to comply with all safety requirements.

Mounting boxes in PVC and MDF panels and more

The number of different materials used in modern construction, is amazing.

It is worth knowing about some of the nuances of each material in order to competently carry out the process of installing socket boxes.

Drywall

When installing boxes in plasterboard walls, a hammer drill and mortar are not required. The work will be completed several times faster compared to installing socket boxes in walls made of concrete or brick.

You need to purchase special boxes that have additional legs to ensure best mount to a sheet of drywall. After marking, you can make holes using a drill with a crown or a regular drill. Then you need to bring the wire out and thread it into the socket box, and then insert it into the hole. The bolts from the adjustment tabs should be tightened on it.

If there is a risk of the box falling out of the hole, you can first glue a sheet of plywood or other dense and non-crumbling material to the inside of the drywall. All other steps (attaching the socket mechanism) are standard.

Tree

Execution hidden wiring in a house made mainly of wooden components is not a cheap pleasure. According to the requirements of the PUE, the installation wire should never come into contact with wood.

Standard plastic socket boxes are not suitable as there is a risk of fire. The only option is iron, which can withstand an arc of electricity during a short circuit.

Wires during installation should be laid in iron pipes, and carefully seal the joints with the socket box. We should not forget about grounding, for which you will need to additionally weld a fastening bolt to the ends of the pipes converging in the box. To provide additional protection, the bottom of the holes can be lined with asbestos.

PVC and MDF panels

Modern window sills or loggias are often made of polyvinyl chloride and act as places for installing sockets.

To implement this process quickly, you need to buy boxes for sockets with spacer legs. For additional fastening, you should buy self-tapping screws. At the assembly stage, the power cable should be laid in advance.

The holes for the socket boxes in the panels are made in advance using a crown (diameter 68 mm). They must be strictly sized so that the socket fits quite tightly. Then you need to pull the cable through the prepared holes and connect the socket terminals. After this, you can attach the panels to the main location. It is necessary to try to ensure that the socket is close to the wall.

When installing a whole complex of devices, you should always maintain a distance between sockets of 71 mm. To maintain this distance to the millimeter, you can make your own original template. To do this, you need to take any rigid material (pipe profile, aluminum frame) and mark in the center of the rib where the socket boxes will be attached.

To do this, you need to find the center using a tape measure and mark the line with a pencil. You need to drill holes along the finished line with a metal drill. Then you need to use a tape measure to measure the distance between the holes of the box and drill a second point according to it. Make holes for the remaining boxes in the same way. In order not to perform so many manipulations, you can simply purchase a stencil for socket boxes.

Conclusion

The glass under the socket greatly simplified the process of installing various electrical sockets. Allows you to mount sockets into the wall without any problems, making them almost invisible. This allows them to fit harmoniously into the interior of the premises and serves as a guarantee of safety.

If necessary, socket boxes allow you to repair electrical sockets or replace them. They have become widespread and have become an integral part of the immediate process of installing electrical outlets.

Installing a box under a socket or switch. Installation of sockets in PVC panels

How to fix a socket in the wall?

Sockets are usually installed on walls. Although there are cases of installing socket groups in the floor (when design solution the TV is located in the middle of the room or room) and on the ceiling (if you need to connect a projector or TV hanging from the ceiling on vertical bracket).

In such cases, the sockets are fixed according to the same principle, only you need to take into account the cable routing to the socket. The socket itself is attached to a special box, or an external socket is installed.

The installation of electrical outlet boxes in the apartment is carried out during the installation of electrical wiring. When all the wires in the apartment have already been routed and the walls have been plastered, all that remains is to install the sockets.

To do this, you need to secure all socket boxes. The openings for them should already be ready. The openings are drilled with a special metal, round nozzle with Pobedit tips. Then the remaining concrete is removed with a hammer drill with a spatula attachment.

The boxes can be secured with dowels, or you can mix alabaster and lubricate the openings with it. Before installing the boxes, the wires must be brought inside.

After completing these steps, all that remains is to connect the sockets. To do this, we strip the wires and insert them into the terminals of the sockets. Modern wiring mainly has three wires (phase, neutral, ground). We connect the phase and neutral to the terminal blocks and clamp them, and the ground to the bus.

We install the socket into the socket of the box and, using a screwdriver, unclench them. When the base of the socket is in place, all that remains is to screw on the covers.

The plasterboard wall is modern and lightweight material for installation of partition walls in an apartment or house. Accordingly, there are technologies for pulling wires in these walls and installing electrical outlets.

The fastening of boxes for sockets for drywall is specific. It is not like boxes designed for concrete walls. The fastener consists of two screw-shaped rods, at the end of which there are small plates.

The principle of operation of the fastener involves fixing the box as a result of the upward movement of the plate along the rod. The movement of the plate is activated by turning the rods using a screwdriver.

Before installing the box on plasterboard wall, wires are inserted into it. When the box is securely clamped in the partition, a socket or socket group consisting of several sockets is installed.

The phase and neutral wires are clamped into the terminals, and the ground wire is attached to the busbar inside the socket. The ground wire is usually yellow or yellow-green in color.

The base of the socket is clamped into the box using spacers with a screwdriver. Then it remains to install the cover on the socket, holding the screw in the center of the socket.

Features of installation of plastic panels | Luxury and comfort

plastic panels
plastic corners
plastic guides
level
drill
self-tapping screws

Installation of PVC panels

4. The last panel is also inserted into the U-shaped corner. If all the walls are sheathed, then you will need ordinary corners, which, after installing the panels, are glued to the corners of the room. 5. It remains to process the top of the panels. This can be done using corners or cornices. In our case, the matter is complicated by the consoles, which will require the installation of an additional panel.

Oct 4, 2016Sergey

shkolaremonta.info

Installation of lamps in PVC panels

Having minimal experience in working with electrical equipment and knowledge in the field of repair and construction work, it is quite simple to install spotlights in ceiling and wall PVC panels.

An example of attaching lamps to an adapter

Note. The luminaires are fastened using a special adapter - a protective thermal ring, which is attached to the main ceiling, and most often to plastic panels with glue.

When using plastic panels for finishing, you should think in advance about the location of the places where the lamps will be installed in the PVC panels. Because if you don’t take care of this issue in advance, you will have to remove some of the panels in order to make electrical wiring and make holes for lamps, or prepare holes on the fly, and run the wires through cable channels mounted on top of the panels.

Selection of lamps for PVC panels

When choosing lamps for PVC, it should be taken into account that plastic is exposed to high temperatures starts to melt. Therefore, before purchasing, you should consult specialty store and select lamps with maximum power, not exceeding 40 W. Additionally, a thermal ring can save the panel from overheating. Best option– use low-voltage light diodes.

Note. The use of lighting devices with a housing protection level less than IP44 is not recommended. When choosing lamps and chandeliers for a room with a static level of humidity that does not exceed the norm, you can ignore the moisture resistance indicator. When choosing lamps for the bathroom, kitchen and toilet, the moisture resistance parameter should not be ignored.

Procedure for installing sockets

Installation of sockets on a PVC plate is as follows:

On the wrong side of the panel, a place for insertion is marked. If the plastic boards are already fixed to the wall, you can cut holes in the panel already fixed to the wall using construction knife;
In place behind the socket, secure a square piece of plywood, equal in size to or slightly larger than the size of the socket;
The socket box must be secured to a sheet of plywood using self-tapping screws.

Fastening sockets - inserting into a PVC plate

If there is practically no space between the wall and the back of the panel, the socket is attached directly to the PVC plate, but with a little secret: in the place where the screws will be screwed in, it is necessary to place small plastic sheets through which the socket is secured on top of the plate. After the socket has been securely fastened, you can proceed to installing the plastic panel on the wall.

Rules for installing lamps

When installing spotlights in the bathroom, place lighting fixtures above the shower stall is not recommended. The same rule applies to installing lamps above the sink and bidet. Considering that in most cases the bathroom in houses does not exceed 6-8 m2, it is enough to install several lamps in ceiling slab with a rotating mechanism.

Preparing panels

What is a plastic panel? The market is full of models that can look like long boards made of plastic or rectangular or square sheets various shapes. The main thing is that the installation of PVC panels on the ceiling is carried out according to the principle of snapping locks: regardless of the model, each PVC plate is equipped with grooves for assembly.

Note. Don't forget to label the panels as well. This is necessary so that during the process you do not forget which part goes into which place. This is especially indispensable when arranging lamps in a checkerboard pattern.

An example of arranging light sources on the ceiling in a checkerboard pattern in a room

In order to drill a hole in panels made of plastic or plasterboard, special crowns are used. As an alternative, you can use wood crowns. Any remaining burrs can be removed using a file or sandpaper(it is acceptable to use sandpaper with light pressure).

The installation of lighting devices can only be started after all stages of attaching PVC plates have been completed. Likewise installation work When installing lamps in plasterboard sheets, the installation process on plastic sheets looks identical.

Life-hack for marking and making holes for installation spot lighting without using a drill:

the location of the proposed hole for the equipment is marked using a compass;
Next, you need to use a stationery or construction knife, with which you make a hole along the contour of the marked line for cable routing;
Now it’s the turn of the electric jigsaw, with the help of which the hole is given its final shape.

Thus, if you don’t have a drill at hand, or you simply don’t want to go to the store for expensive cutters, an ordinary compass, a stationery knife and a jigsaw powered by electricity will come to the rescue. The method is really good, it allows you to significantly save the financial component of the project. But there is also a minus: the time that needs to be spent working with a jigsaw exceeds the time that would be spent drilling with a drill.

Note. As a rule, plastic products sensitive to mechanical stress. Therefore, when cutting out parts you need to be as careful as possible. Otherwise, the board may crack or sag, which automatically sends it to scrap.

Installation of spotlights in PVC panels

You can install the overhead light according to the following scheme:

disconnect the top of the lamp from the base;
turn off the electricity using the terminals;
connect the lamp;
check the functionality of the connected lamp;
using special clamps, install the lamp in place;
secure decorative overlay;
attach the thermal insulating ring to the bottom of the lamp.

Finally, all that remains is to attach plastic plate back.

Any electrical work must be carried out with the electricity switched off in the panel

Sequence of installation work spotlight:

On the body of the lamp there is a pair of clamping “ears” that need to be bent;
A hole is prepared in the slab according to the size of the lamp;
The light device is inserted into the made and processed hole. If you don't get rid of the burrs after making a hole, the overall job will look sloppy. In addition, there is a high chance of damage from untreated edges when installing a lighting device;
Strip the wire on the device if the manufacturer has not taken care of this in advance;
Strip the wire on the ceiling. It is necessary to remove the insulating layer no more than 10-12 mm;
Connect the wire on the ceiling to the wire of the lamp using a screw clamp.

Distance between light sources

It is necessary to take into account the minimum voltage and small lighting angle. As a rule, lighting begins to dissipate at an angle exceeding 30 degrees. Therefore, it is necessary to think over the location of the lamps so that the light fluxes intersect with each other, which automatically allows you to fill the ceiling space as much as possible and scatter the light evenly over the ceiling surface.

Example. Standard height ceiling in residential buildings varies between 2.4-2.5 meters. Therefore, the maximum distance between light sources should not exceed more than 1 meter, and it is necessary to retreat from the walls by at least half a meter.

For clarity, on the ceiling you can do preliminary marking location of light sources. This can be done using insulating tape:

cut off equal strips of 2 pieces from the electrical tape;
stick on top of each other in the form of a cross.

Thus, you can mark the future location of the lamps and think about what shape to place them on the ceiling surface.

Video

wallpanels.ru

How to install a box under a socket or switch

In the rooms of our apartments and houses there is laid hidden electrical wiring and all sockets and switches are installed inside the wall. In order to hide the entire mechanism, and so that only the cover or keys remain on top, it is necessary to smear or install mounting plastic boxes under them (often called socket boxes), which serve to secure sockets and switches in them and isolate wires and contacts from the wall.

Please note that this work must be done simultaneously with making grooves for electrical wiring before finishing the walls.

The process of installing socket boxes is quite simple and you can easily do it yourself. Depending on the type of building material, you must choose one of two principles for installing mounting boxes:

For walls made of wood, plasterboard, PVC, MDF panels, etc., you need to cut a hole with a special crown and then insert a socket box into it and press it to the wall using self-tapping screws with claws.
And in brick, concrete, silicate walls, the boxes are fixed with a quick-drying solution of gypsum, alabaster, gypsum plaster, etc.

Installing an outlet box in concrete, brick, gas silicate.

In order to install a socket box, you need to make a hole for it using a hammer drill or drill and special crown(in the picture below).

I recommend buying a crown with a diameter of 68 mm. Or 70 millimeters, designed for SDS-plus concrete. It is suitable for all types of walls, unlike a brick crown, which is intended only for drilling in non-solid building materials.

Before drilling, you need to make markings using a tape measure and a pencil. I simply mark the center for the crown drill throughout the apartment at the same distance from the floor, if it is level.

Remember that when drilling with a crown, a hammer drill or impact drill must be switched only to the drilling mode, and not combined with chiselling.

If you need to mount one or more boxes, then you can do without crowns and drill holes for them with a drill and knock them out required sizes niche along the outlined contour. In this case, the marking is done by outlining the outline of the socket box with a small margin. And on the sides of the knocked-out holes, in all rooms, at the same distance from the floor, I draw the center of the sockets or switches along the level. I use these marks as a guide when subsequently sealing the mounting boxes.

If you need to install not a single socket, but for example a block consisting of 2, 3 or 4 electrical sockets or in combination with telephone, TV or computer ones, then you need to buy a one-piece double, triple or quadruple block of boxes specially designed for this (examples in the picture below. )

At work I most often use single mounting boxes(above in the picture on the left), which can be formed into blocks by inserting one into the grooves of the other. But for those who are not professional electricians, I do not recommend doing this, because without experience it is very difficult to mount such blocks, because they bend. Take a solid block for several places, believe me, this greatly simplifies the process and will allow you to smear it quickly and evenly!

After the hole is ready, we check that the mounting box fits freely into it and is hidden flush with the wall. Knock out from the side or on back wall hole and insert the cable or wires into it.

We take and spread the gypsum or alabaster mixture into several places of application or one block, because these mixtures dry quickly. In my practice, when I need to cover a large number of boxes, I mix tile adhesive or gypsum plaster ROTBAND (Rotband), which do not dry out for up to an hour. And this allows you to smear more than a dozen socket boxes in one batch.

Before filling the hole with the solution, moisten it with water. Then a box is pressed into the filled hole, which should be level with the wall.

The main thing to consider here is that it is better to recess it a little deeper than if it stuck out even a millimeter. It is important to observe this so that the socket fits tightly against the wall when installed. In addition, make sure that the holes for the screws or the places for the sliding legs with which the socket or switch is attached are vertical or horizontal, otherwise they will become crooked during subsequent installation. A small distortion can be easily corrected, but a large one cannot.

Remove excess mixture with a spatula. We wait for the solution to dry and after finishing we move on to installing and connecting sockets or switches.

Installation of a socket box for plasterboard, wood, PVC, MDF panels.

Mounting boxes for sockets and switches of a special design with spacer legs are installed in plasterboard, wood, MDF and PVC panels, with the help of which it is pressed against the wall.

jelektro.ru

Do-it-yourself installation of electrical sockets and switches. Alpha74 service center.

An electrical socket is designed to safely connect electrical appliances to the power supply. There are overhead or external sockets and internal ones. Recently, internal sockets have become more popular, as they have a more aesthetic and modern look.

The switch is designed to interrupt and connect an electrical circuit, to turn on and off various devices. Switches are mainly used to control electrical lighting in a room. Switches are often used to control other household appliances such as a water heating boiler, heating system circulation pump, kitchen hoods, etc.

The specifics of installation of sockets and switches largely depend on the material from which the walls in the room are built or lined. The most common wall materials are concrete, brick and facing material in the form of plastic panels and plasterboard.

Installation of sockets and switches in a brick wall. To install sockets and switches in a brick or concrete wall, you will need an impact drill with a special attachment for drilling large-diameter holes, a screwdriver and pliers.

Using an impact drill, a socket is prepared for a socket of the appropriate size. The socket can be disassembled using a screwdriver. The removed cable is connected to a socket or switch according to the instructions for it. Then the socket is seated in its place and secured using specially provided clamps.

After this, the socket is put back together.

Installation of sockets and switches in a plastic wall. Installation of sockets in lined walls is a little simpler than the previous one, but also requires a little effort and caution. You can use a utility knife or an electric jigsaw to make holes in plastic panels and drywall. For plastic or drywall, special attachments are available for sawing large diameter holes in it. You also need to buy a special installation box.

When choosing a location for sockets, you should take into account that behind the facing material there is a metal profile that may interfere with installation. To determine the location of the profile, you can press down the wall with your hand in several places. By the way the wall springs, you can determine the approximate location of the profile. Just as in the case of a brick wall, the socket is disassembled, connected to the output cable and mounted in its seat. After that she gets ready.

Electrician services in Chelyabinsk. High-quality and inexpensive electrical installation from Alfa74.

alfa74.ru

How to install PVC panels yourself

PVC installation panels takes little time and does not require high qualifications. Finishing with PVC panels is one of the most simple ways create flat surface, which is much more difficult to achieve with plaster. Decorating the walls with PVC panels will help you easily hide electrical wiring, pipes and other communications. The material is not afraid of water and sunlight, can serve for a long time without losing its properties, and is easy to wash. You can choose any color of PVC panels: plain, with imitation natural materials, with a picture. Installation of PVC panels allows you to achieve sound and heat insulation. This effect is achieved thanks to the cellular structure of the panels.

Disadvantages of PVC panels: if there is damage, you will either have to put up with it or undertake complex repairs, because you will have to dismantle the entire wall. For reasons fire safety finishing with PVC panels is not allowed everywhere (for example, they cannot be used in corridors and staircases).

Having weighed all the pros and cons, we decided to finish the walls in the kitchen with PVC panels, or rather, with this material we decided to cover only one wall, where it would stand dining table, away from the stove and radiator. This decision was driven by the need for families with small children to find options that make cleaning easier. And MDF panels will not last as long in the kitchen as plastic ones.

Finishing with PVC panels. Materials and tools:

plastic panels
plastic corners
plastic guides
gluers - metal clips for fastening panels
level
drill
self-tapping screws
hacksaw, pencil, tape measure, square

Installation of PVC panels

1. Lathing. Metal guides are sewn onto the prepared wall and leveled. Holes are drilled, dowels are inserted into them, and the guides are secured with screws. Guides for fastening PVC panels are installed in increments of 50-60 cm.

2. Since we are covering only one wall with panels, we insert the first panel into the U-shaped corner. We attach the corner to the wall.

We insert the ridge of the first panel into it. It is important that the panel fits evenly into the corner.

Before doing this, measure the required length of the panel and cut off the excess with a hacksaw.

We secure the second side of the panel using gluers. These are special brackets for fastening PVC panels to metal guides. Thanks to the burrs, they hold the panel tightly.

3. We insert the second and subsequent panels into the groove of the previous one at an angle. At this stage it is important not to leave gaps between the panels. In order not to damage the grooves, we take a block (it is very convenient to use a piece of panel, it just fits into the groove), apply it to the panel at different heights and, by tapping, insert the ridge of the panel into the groove of the previous one. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the panels, and firmly enough so that the panel fits into the groove. We fasten PVC panels using gluers.

4. The last panel is also inserted into the U-shaped corner. If all the walls are sheathed, then you will need ordinary corners, which, after installing the panels, are glued to the corners of the room.5. It remains to process the top of the panels. This can be done using corners or cornices. In our case, the matter is complicated by the consoles, which will require the installation of an additional panel.

Since on this wall we had 3 electrical sockets, additional complexity appeared in the installation process. We closed one socket, brought out a wire from the second for a socket in another place, and put it on the last one double socket. Preparatory work needs to be done before installing the panels so that all that remains is to install the socket. In relation to the installation of panels: having reached the socket, we cut out the required part in the panel, and also trim the next panel. We cover everything with a socket.

What we got as a result: flat wall per day of work without the usual dirt for repairs, in the dining area there is a wall that can be washed. Beautiful and comfortable.

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specifics of the work, choice of materials and necessary tools.

Selection of tools and materials for installing PVC panels

PVC panels
Metal profiles and corners
Saw and hacksaw (optional jigsaw)
Staple gun and staples
Planer and drill
Self-tapping screws and dowels
Claimers
Tape measure and building level
Hammer

We install PVC panels. Step 1: surface and materials preparation

All materials should be purchased in advance, and not on the day of installation, because some of them are recommended to “rest” in the room where they will be used for several days. If the panels were in contact with frost upon delivery, the material adaptation time may increase up to a week.

Pay attention! The room itself, if it is not heated properly, should be warmed up several days before facing the walls and maintained at a comfortable temperature. Sheathing must be carried out at temperatures above 10°.

Before installing the sheathing on the walls, they should first be leveled with plaster and primer. Otherwise, a problem will arise when installing the sheathing; you will need to use studs, which will greatly complicate the work. There is no need to sand the walls.

Step 2: attaching the sheathing

The sheathing is made from metal profile, located at a distance of 30 cm from each other. It should be fastened so that the last lower profile is 10-30 cm from the floor, and the upper one touches the corner for ceiling plinth. The sheathing slats (guides) should be attached after the walls are leveled and marked at a level of 50-60 cm from each other.

Pay attention! In rooms with high humidity It is better to use galvanized profiles.

If the walls have not been leveled in advance to avoid distortions and distortions, small pieces of wood can be attached to the rail in places where the walls have chips and unevenness. Self-tapping screws are needed to secure the profile.

First, take the profile and attach it to the wall, measure the mounting points with a level. In these places, make holes into which you place the dowels, and then the profile, and tighten the screws.

Step 3: Attaching the First Panel

If the sheets are attached vertically, then the length of the sheet will be the height of the room, if horizontally - the width of the walls. Measure the required length using a tape measure and mark it on a sheet lying on a flat floor. It is most convenient to cut the material with a hacksaw or jigsaw.

In order to start covering, you will need a perforated metal corner, which is placed on the first panel and attached to the wall. Then the ridge of the panel is placed in the corner. Make sure that the panel fits evenly into the corner so that there are no bends.

Next, you will need gluers (metal staples specially designed for panels that hold them together). At their base they have sharp burrs, which are placed in the profile and on the side of the panel, thereby ensuring excellent fastening to the next sheet.

Step 4: Place the Next Panels in the Groove

Next, the panels are fastened at an angle. It is important that there are no gaps between the sheets. To avoid damage, you can take wooden block and apply it to the panel along its entire length, then, pressing the ridge, place it in the groove of the first panel. You need to press the comb both gently and firmly so that the sheet is secured in the groove. We attach the panel to the profile with adhesive tape.

Step 5: How to install the last panel

To install the last panel, as for the first, use the “P” corner. It is placed in the corner between the walls and the sheet is first attached to the corner, and then to the previous panel. The wall is covered!

The video shows how to attach PVC panels to walls so that the work has excellent results.

Step 6: decorative paneling

The decor of such walls is based, first of all, on the design of the top of the panels, which can be done with corners and cornices. In addition, the installation of electrical outlets is of particular importance and complexity, which can either be closed or the wires routed to another location. You can, for example, close one of the existing sockets and put a double on the second, or move the sockets to a more convenient place. This will reduce wasted space and simplify the whole job. The preparation of the outlet must be done before casing, so that all that remains is to attach the box and cover directly. As for the panel to be attached, you cut a hole in it for the power point with a jigsaw, and then attach it as usual. Then mount the socket directly into the panel.

Before starting work, watch several educational videos on this topic. You may find the tips shown in the videos useful.

Remember that covering a PVC panel is not only functional and convenient in terms of cleaning, but also beautiful, which allows the room to always have an elegant look. Good luck with the renovation!