In this article, the reader will learn the importance of a shovel handle and how to choose finished product, and get acquainted with the manufacturing technology of this part of the tool.
What master would deny the indispensability of such a simple tool as a shovel? everyday life, and, especially during the construction process - repair work? When the base of the shovel is strong, the tool does its job properly, and few people pay attention to defects in the handle. But if the cutting suddenly turns out to be too long/short, shaky, and threatens to dry out, then it becomes completely impossible to work.

Brief recommendations for choosing a wooden handle for a bayonet shovel

The mistake of many craftsmen is that often in a hurry, they buy the first factory cutting they come across and try to attach it to an existing bayonet. The result is not always positive. In order not to spoil the tool, it would be nice to know that ordinary shovels are divided into 3 types: type P, type B and type U. Naturally, the metal blade and linings differ in thickness, size and require different cuttings. Knowing the type of bayonet shovel you have, you can safely go to the store where they will select the right type of handle for you.

Small tips will be better remembered if they tell you not what a high-quality cutting should look like, but what it shouldn’t look like. So, on the surface the following are not allowed:

• cracks,
• wormholes
• notches,
• chips,
• bitches,
• flakes,
• rot

The product must have an even, uniform color and smooth surface. Varnish coating is allowed.

A few words to the summer resident and gardener

As for hoes, weeders and cultivators, the situation with them is simpler. This category of tools is manufactured in accordance with GOST 19598-74, therefore the length of the shovel handle is strictly regulated. There are 3 types of hoes: hilling, weeding and universal. The length of the handle for each type is 1200, 1300, and 1400 mm, respectively. Weeders are also classified into loop (PP), with a zigzag blade (ZL), with a straight blade (PL), and combined (K). The length of the cuttings for PP and PL will be 1200 -1400 mm, for ZL and K - 1100 mm. And finally, the handle for cultivators is most conveniently made with a length of 1200 mm. Now that the technical information is behind us, it will be much easier to purchase a cutting for your garden assistant.

WITH soviet family

Due to their specialization, shovels are required to withstand significant loads. They are not suitable for working in the ground, but they do an excellent job with bulk materials: sand, crushed stone, coal. Sometimes this type of shovel is used for snow removal. Among scoops, you can most often find aluminum shovel handles. Snow removal tools are often made of lightweight, durable plastic. This species has one more feature. If bayonet and garden shovels are usually straight, then scoop shovels have curved handles and handles with a handle at the end.

DIY shovel handle

And now we come to the part of the article that the most creative readers have been waiting for. We dare to assure you that the process of making cuttings for shovels is not particularly complicated or labor-intensive. With a certain perseverance and dexterity, even a novice master can do such a necessary thing.
You should have at your disposal: a strong board or slab, a circular saw, an electric plane, a hand plane, a screwdriver, and a self-tapping screw.
From what you read above, you already know what defects should not be present in the finished cutting, so you can get an idea of ​​what kind of board to take for the future product.
By using circular saw and an electric planer we process the board to the state of a rectangular strip.

Its cross-section will be approximately 3 x 4 cm. At this stage there is one interesting point- you can leave the cutting rectangular. For some types of work, a rectangular handle may be more convenient. Unlike the round handle, it does not slip so much in your hands and does not try to “get out of the way.” If you are not inclined to the first option, with a hand plane We round the corners, and gradually sharpen the end of the handle. From time to time you need to apply this pointed end to the bayonet. It is better to remove less wood and then sharpen the handle a little, than to make it too thin and ruin the whole job.

We continue to sharpen the block until it can fit halfway into the bayonet groove. During the process, you have already noticed that the groove is located at an angle and has unequal depth. We remove the shavings from the handle in accordance with this unevenness.

The end of the handle also needs to be beveled towards the blade of the shovel, otherwise it will prevent the tool from entering the ground. How to attach a shovel to a handle? If you sharpened the block correctly, there will be no problems with this, the handle without special effort will fit two-thirds into the shovel. All that remains is to drive it to the end of the groove with strong blows on a hard surface.

The result, for reliability, needs to be secured with a self-tapping screw. In the absence of one, you can use a regular nail. Now you can enter finishing touch. Let's look at our creation again and sandpaper We process all the irregularities and cover the cutting with clear varnish. The universal housekeeping assistant is ready. If desired, you can attach a handle to the other end of the handle.

A shovel is a tool without which both gardening and construction work. However, in the process of using a good, comfortable shovel, few of us think about such a detail as the handle. We pay attention to it only when it makes work difficult: it begins to wobble, dry out, or becomes completely unusable for one reason or another. The inappropriate length of the cutting, too short or, conversely, long, also causes inconvenience.

So let's talk about how to choose the best shovel handle.

What should be the handle for a shovel?

As we all know, shovels come in bayonet and scoop types. And the cuttings for them are also different - this must be taken into account when purchasing. There are several criteria for choosing a good shovel handle:

1. One of the main ones is the material from which the cutting is made. For bayonet shovels, wooden handles are usually used, while for modern shovels, plastic and aluminum handles are quite acceptable. No less popular today are shovels with a metal handle made of stainless steel– they are considered the most durable. When purchasing a wooden cutting, inspect it from all sides: it should not cause concern in the form of nicks, knots, wormholes and all kinds of cracks. As for the type of wood, hardwood is the leader in quality - for example, birch, ash, alder. Beech cuttings for shovels “do not like” moisture - after work they should be brought indoors. There are also different types of wooden cuttings: premium does not allow the presence of knots, unlike the first and second.
2. The shape of the handle is usually straight, but shovels may have curved handles or have a handle at the end for more comfortable work.
3. The diameter of the shovel handle can be different and ranges from 34 to 40 mm. It depends on the type of shovel (with a fork or T-shaped handle, with a ball or hemispherical head or with an iron rod), as well as on its purpose (gardening, construction or loading and unloading).
4. The length of the shovel handle should be selected individually. Take the handle in your hand and imagine how comfortable it will be for you to work with such a shovel.

   Which trees are best used to make cuttings for garden tools?

   The standard length of the handle varies from 900 to 1400 mm.

How to plant a cutting on a shovel?

If you have chosen the handle correctly, then placing it on the bayonet of a shovel will not be difficult. It will easily fit about 2/3 of the way into the shovel. And in order to push the pointed part of the handle all the way, you need to make several strong blows with a shovel on a hard surface.

If the wooden handle is too wide for the metal hole in the shovel holder, you can always trim it with a plane, slightly sharpening one of the ends of the handle.

Many craftsmen prefer to make cuttings themselves. It's easy if you have it carpentry tool. In this case, for greater reliability, it is better to secure the result of connecting the bayonet to the handle. self-tapping screw or regular nail (in many shovels industrial production This clamp comes complete with the bayonet part).

And finally, another important question: do the cuttings for shovels need to be treated with something? Most gardeners advise refraining from treating the cutting with varnish, paints and impregnations, since it is the cutting that experiences the full force of hand friction during any work. If desired, it can only be treated with wood stain - it will give it the desired color and emphasize the structure of the wood. After treatment, it is advisable not to use a shovel for 24 hours so that the stain is properly absorbed into the wood and does not stain your hands.

The quality of gardening tools affects its service life, quality work results, and, importantly, labor productivity and fatigue. If the handle of the shovel is rough, then you definitely need to wear gloves, but if it is poorly attached to the shovel, then you have to watch and make efforts to hold them together. But the biggest trouble can await a gardener or builder if an unnoticeable twig causes the cutting to break in your hands, unable to withstand the load.

Specialized gardening centers often offer tools for mass demand, already completed and planted on a cutting. But if you need something special and you have already found and purchased the tool you need in its original packaging, then there is no big problem in purchasing shovel handles from the manufacturer if you know which handle you need and how to choose the right one.

For a shovel right choice the handle is most important, because it is the shovel that experiences the greatest stress in gardening and other household work.

What kind of wood are shovel handles made from?

This applies equally to both the bayonet shovel and the scoop. The strength of the handle itself and the possibility of its strong attachment to the shovel are very important. In addition, the handle of the shovel should lie comfortably in your hands. Sometimes the handle of the shovel is varnished, this helps protect the wood from excess moisture and your hands from friction. To summarize, we can say that you need to refuse to buy a shovel handle on which you noticed:

• knots;
• chips and nicks;
• cracks;
• rot and wormholes;
• roughness.

The salesperson will help you choose a handle for a shovel, knowing the type of shovel you have: scoop or bayonet. Bayonet ones, in turn, are divided into rectangular and rounded; shovels - for construction, earthworks and for snow removal. Different types Shovels have different thicknesses of the tray blade and nozzles; they require a handle of different thicknesses.

Select a cutting that is required for other purposes gardening tools in an online store, a little easier. All types of hoes and choppers are manufactured in accordance with the uniform GOST 19598-74, so producers of cuttings have to adhere to the same GOST. Although the load on a hoe is less than on a shovel, the above quality criteria should be adhered to when choosing. In addition, handles for hoes and hoes are made of different lengths according to the purpose of the tool; their length can be 120-140 cm. Here it would be completely useful to try on the length of the handle to your height, how convenient it will be for you to work with it.

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Garden hoe

The garden hoe is an excellent effective tool for weeding garden plants and the garden in general. Using this tool, gardeners carefully weed plants located close to each other and garden crops planted in narrow rows. No other tool will give you this opportunity - a shovel is too big, a rake too. There are different types of hoes: large, small, medium, whole combisystems (Gardena) and so on. They all have one thing in common - the presence of a good handle that allows them to work comfortably.

Ordinary hoe

The hoe is designed to remove weeds and loosen the soil. A very effective tool that must be in the arsenal of a gardener and gardener. The cutting is usually made from ash (American grade), birch or other hardwoods.

Often it is applied to the blade of an ordinary hoe. special coating called Anti Stick. Thanks to this, the soil does not stick to the metal, and you can work in the garden even after rain.

Combisystem Gardena 9

Maybe, best option improved hoe.

Shovel handle

The tool is a straight blade with sharp edges, like a saw (on one side). The other side of such a hoe is three long teeth, like a fork. Thanks to such a versatile and combined system you can do the following:

• Sprinkling soil over rows of potatoes and cabbage;
• Weed control at all stages of growth;
• Processing and leveling of land plots;
• Furrowing and so on.

WITH universal system Garden is suitable for a handle with a length of 130-150 cm. The exact size is determined by the height of the user working with the tool.

Combined system Gardena 7

Combined hoe

A universal hoe with a working size of 7 centimeters. An excellent tool for working with soil and processing various garden crops. One side of the Garden 7 hoe is made in the shape of a heart, and the other - in the form of two teeth. Like the Garden 9, the hoe copes well with various jobs in the garden.

Holder or handle

The best cuttings for a hoe

The holder is an important component of the hoe. Particularly relevant is the reduction garden tools back to normal when spring comes. It is at this time that it is recommended to pay attention to the hoe, update it and replace the handle.

As you know, nothing can replace the effect of a good cutting. Thanks to a properly selected holder, even the most intense work in the garden will not cause fatigue or discomfort.

You can buy cuttings for hoeing from us at the most low prices. Whether it is a birch or ash handle, it will be distinguished by high reliability, guaranteed service life and excellent additional properties.

With us, the client will find the best handles for a hoe. We have been selling cuttings from high-quality wood species throughout the country for a long time. Without knots and unevenness, without defects visible or invisible to the eye - these are the handles of our production.

The best cuttings

The handle for shovels and other garden tools must be made with high quality, otherwise problems cannot be avoided. The wrong handle, as soon as you “check” it for a solid force, breaks instantly. What is the reason? Is it really all about strength, or are there other quality criteria?

Size

The cutting must be the right size. This is one of the most important rules. It is believed that the ideal cutting size should imply the correct height:

• First of all, you need to pay attention to the worker’s shoulder. Approximately for our person, the height of the handle should vary between 140-180 cm. If the height is higher or lower, then the length of the handle must be changed accordingly;
• If the cutting is being prepared for use with a shovel, then you can make it shorter. The fact is that it is extremely inconvenient to rake various loose objects or other things with a long shovel, but a short one, on the contrary, is easier. This also applies to pitchforks. If you are going to use them to carry hay bales, then it would be better to put them on a short handle, but you need to load the bales onto the carriage with long forks;
• If the shovel is a sapper, then naturally the handle length should be reduced to extreme values. As a rule, it is 70-80 cm, perhaps even less.

Wood

Birch is the best cutting

The second rule of a good cutting is the quality of the material. You need to know which types of wood are best suited for this. In this case, the product will receive not only the appropriate strength, but also appearance will be on the level. Let's look at the most popular types of wood used for making cuttings:

1. Pine is considered the most simple material, the abundance of which on the market is sometimes surprising. On the other hand, it is understandable, because pine is considered a soft material, which greatly facilitates the manufacturing process: the material is quickly and efficiently processed, sanded and looks beautiful. Only pine has one drawback that casts a huge shadow on all the advantages of this wood, like a fly in the ointment - reliability. Pine products are not suitable for shovels and forks, as they will not last long. Over time, the material weakens, the handle breaks at the first serious effort.
2. Birch is strong, cheap and easy to get in our country. In addition, despite its high strength, birch is incredibly light, which is a fundamental factor for a tool.

   How to choose the right shovel for different occasions

   Birch can withstand heavy loads for a long time and does not break even if heavy soil is not dug up properly. Wood processing is also not difficult: birch is easily planed and the fibers are removed evenly. True, they are polished birch products much longer, but the quality of the cuttings is much higher than pine ones.

3. Ash and oak – the best varieties wood Only ash is too expensive, and oak is heavy.

Beech and larch also have disadvantages, as they have a high density. If you need a quality cutting, contact the best manufacturer quality birch cuttings for Far East. We have promotions, take advantage of them!

zhab about a small infantry shovel, which is more often called a sapper blade, I got excited and decided to please myself to buy such a blade.
In my city I found a 1941 “Comintern” shovel for sale.

The blade is remarkable and in good condition.
A little time passed and I decided to buy a royal spatula with a rectangular tray "Chaudoir" 1915. - ordered on the Internet.
The spatula was stored in a warehouse with real warehouse dust and dirt, I had to wash it with Comet, then I was very surprised, as the water was colored green. One of the colors began to literally wash away.

You can read more about the manufacturers of these blades at zhab Shovels "Chaudoir" 1915 and "Comintern" 1940

I decided to clean both blades of excess paint. Under the paint you can find pockets of small rust, which a big fan and collector of blades warns about. ra85733 "Red cat" He cleans the blades with carburetor cleaner, which has bad smell and therefore it is advisable to use it not in an apartment. I decided to clean the steel tray using an unnecessary knife, simply scraping off the paint, and also cleaned the handle.
After cleaning, I wanted to polish the handle with sandpaper, starting with the coarse sandpaper and ending with the finest sandpaper (I started with P60 and ended with P2500). After these procedures, the tree began to simply shine! The handles became simply white; of course, the “scars” from the tree did not go away and there was no need for this.




"Red Cat" used the product to impregnate the cuttings SCHAFTOL® Scherell EXTRA DARK and wax. I decided to try saturating the stalk with polok oil, and finishing coat make with Danish Oil according to recipe

The first step is to determine the ideal size. It is generally accepted that the height should be exactly at the worker’s shoulder, that is, approximately from 140 cm to 180 cm, depending on your height. You can make it a little shorter, especially if you plan to, because too long can cause you some inconvenience during subsequent use. Naturally, for a sapper shovel this figure generally decreases to 70-80 cm, perhaps even less if it is traveling.

Now we need to choose the material. Not only the strength, but also the appearance of your product will depend on its quality, since some types of wood may suffer when further dried or when wet in winter. Let's take a closer look at what is best to make a cutting from, and what is better to immediately throw in the trash.

1. Pine. The most primitive material that is abundant on the market. Making a holder from it is a pleasure: it’s quick, very easy to process, sands effectively, and looks beautiful. The only drawback is that it does not work for a long time; with more or less normal force, it will crack on the first branch or even on a “live” one. The amount of resin in pine is very small; it is brittle, brittle, and has low density. If you need to use it, it is better to glue 2-3 planks together and only then plan out the given object from it - the strength and wear resistance increases.
2. Birch. Strong, cheap, simple. Of the light species, birch is the best option. It is strong enough to withstand a significant load on the cutting and not break when digging up heavy soil. It is also good in processing, it is easy to plan, the fibers are removed evenly, grinding takes a little longer, but its quality will be higher than the first option.
3. Ash. Expensive, but high quality. Making dozens of cuttings from this material is unprofitable because the cost is very high. But, If you need to make 1-2 holders for yourself personally, then you can fork out and buy a blank made of ash. The density of wood is 1.4 times higher than that of pine or birch, has longitudinal fibers, and a very low deformation coefficient (will not bend).
4. Oak. Expensive, durable, but heavy. One of the biggest disadvantages of beech and larch is their high density. It is difficult to work with such a holder, but it all depends on the purpose of the tool. If work is required to tear out the foundation and cut down the roots, then this product will be ideal for solving such a task.

Based on the species described above, we will choose birch for our cutting, which can be found at any sawmill and purchased inexpensively. It would be best to glue the cutting from 2-3 strips, but if you are not particularly concerned about slight deformation over time, you can use a standard blank.

Step-by-step instructions for making a holder

To make a shovel handle, technical specifications which will not be inferior to factory performance, it is necessary to pay attention not only to its fit, but also to anti-corrosion treatment. The easiest option is to buy a blank, but you can make it yourself, which is what we’ll do now.

Step 1 Search for material.

In order to make a truly even holder that would satisfy your requirements, you need to choose a branch that will be 2 times thicker than the required diameter. Try to choose without knots, branches, or bends so that the fibers are as even as possible.

Step 1 Adjustable to the correct size.

First you need to dry it. 20 days on sunlight will be enough. Then take a plane and remove the required amount of wood. Align with a bar or level, scroll and align relative to the axis. Extremely precise dimensions are not needed, but it should not be made crooked either.

Step 1 Processing.

Be sure to sand it to avoid nicks. This can be done with a special machine or manually. First go over with coarse-grained sandpaper, then with fine-grained sandpaper. Next, we impregnate it with a special suspension for wood, you can buy it in any store. We let it dry for 24 hours, then we cover the entire area with varnish in 2 layers so that the appearance is just perfect - this is not necessary, but wouldn’t you be pleased to work with such a shovel?

Now all we have to do is let the varnish dry for at least 24 hours and we can assume that we have figured out how to make a handle for a shovel. If necessary, it can be adjusted to size, sharpened to fit the nozzle in seat on a ladle or perform any manipulations you like.

Properly planting the cuttings

A lot depends on this, and first of all, the comfort of work. If you don't have any play or spin, digging up soil and digging trenches will be much more enjoyable. Let's look at how to place a cutting on a shovel.

Step 1 Sharpening.

Measure the diameter of the hole. As a rule, they are made under a cone, but can be straight. In the second case, we need to measure the diameter - this figure should be in the middle of the future sharpening or even at a distance of 1/3 from the bottom. We remove the wood using sandpaper at an angle of 20-25 degrees, you can do this with a knife, and then sand it with sandpaper for evenness.

Step 2 Sealing and protection.

Fill the treated surface with impregnation - this is necessary in order to so that the attachment point does not rot after a few years and lose its strength. Let it dry for 12 hours and soak the cutting in epoxy resin. It will be a kind of seal.

Step 3 Let's score.

Immediately after filling with resin (you can use bitumen), you need to hammer in the holder. To do this, insert it into the seat, turn the shovel upside down with a scoop and hit the handle into a hard surface (concrete or thick metal). The blow must be sharp. After 5-7 blows, the ladle will sit on the handle to the level at which sharpening begins. Let the resin dry for 24 hours (you can’t pour too much hardener) and you can use it.

The length of the shovel handle should include possible changes after the work is completed (we’ll put 10 centimeters in the bucket), so take this into account and do it with a margin. Then you can saw it off without any problems, but with a short cutting you won’t be able to do anything.