- This best protection from theft and burglary, but not from the cold. The disadvantage can be corrected by insulating the iron front door with your own hands.

Three reasons to insulate your door

During the cold season, it’s so nice when the house is warm! It is important not only to obtain it, but also to preserve it, and for this it is necessary to make the housing as airtight as possible. A significant part of the heat is lost due to uninsulated doors, and metal structures– is no exception.

There are three reasons to insulate a door:

1. Drafts. To avoid jamming, a gap must be made between the canvas and the box, the width of which is 5-8 mm. Cold air easily penetrates into the room through it.
2. Condensate. Metal – good guide, so in cold weather inner side the structure is almost the same temperature as the outside one. From contact with warm air room, condensation forms on its surface. Over time, it will cause corrosion and ruin the appearance of the door.
3. Soundproofing. It’s much calmer when you don’t hear the sounds of the street or entrance. Unlike multi-layer doors, homogeneous iron structure increases the noise, which even at night is 30 dB. Insulating doors will increase sound insulation.

You can insulate a safe door using various materials. They are similar in characteristics and the sequence and order of work will not change depending on which one is chosen.

Insulation material

Just 20 years ago, insulation of entrances would have been done with sawdust or felt. Modern heat insulating materials practical, easy to use and flame retardant. Common insulation materials are polystyrene foam, polypropylene foam, mineral wool, polyurethane foam, and cork insulation.

• Foam plastic – common name foamed polymers whose cells are filled with air or gas. It has sound and heat insulation properties. Light weight allows you to quickly install it. In addition, polystyrene foam is non-toxic, does not support combustion, and is also not afraid of moisture. This must be taken into account when insulating a door facing the street.

This class of materials includes polypropylene foam, polyurethane foam, and polystyrene foam. The thickness of the slabs varies, it is easy to choose best option for each design. In terms of thermal conductivity, 3 cm of polystyrene foam is equivalent to 15 cm of wood.

• Mineral wool – fibrous tile or roll material. Depending on the composition, it can be stone, glass, or slag. Mineral wool is convenient to attach or lay, it does not burn, but has one drawback: after getting wet, it decreases in volume and loses its thermal insulation properties. If in the entrance), the mineral wool will get wet from condensation and will be useless. In addition, she will have bad smell and will cause corrosion.
• Cork agglomerate is a natural material made from the bark of an expensive cork tree. Expensive type of thermal insulation. A 3 cm thick layer of agglomerate retains heat no worse than brick wall 40 cm thick. The agglomerate does not support combustion, is not afraid of moisture, and is not affected by mold and fungi. Cork insulation is often used in combination with other materials.

A piece of plasticine wrapped in a plastic bag will help make the measurement easier. Press the plasticine against the door and you will see how thick the seal you need.

It is better to choose a black seal, because the dye reduces its service life.

It is easy to glue the seal. One side of the elastic is covered with a sticky compound, from which the protective strip is removed and glued. After this, the canvas is insulated.

Sequence of work

In order to insulate a metal entrance door, you will need the following tool:

1. tape measure and pencil;
2. screwdriver;
3. electric jigsaw;
4. self-tapping screws;
5. polyurethane foam;
6. universal glue.

Let's take a closer look at all the stages:

1. The structure is removed from its hinges for greater convenience.
2. handle using a screwdriver or screwdriver.
3. Filming inner sheet decorative cladding. To , use a screwdriver or regular knife. This only applies to blocks with a split design.
4. Using a knife, cut out pieces of foam plastic of the required configuration so that they fit tightly between the stiffeners.
5. The resulting foam blocks are smeared with glue and glued to the canvas.
6. The remaining gaps between the insulation and the ribs are filled with polyurethane foam.
7. After the foam has dried, the sheathing is reinstalled.
8. Put the lock and handle in place and hang the canvas on the hinges.

The task will become more complicated if the block is one-piece, for example, made in China. In this case, the metal door can only be insulated using outer skin, which is mounted directly on top of the metal sheet.

1. The canvas is removed from the hinges, the lock and handle are dismantled.
2. An electric jigsaw is used to saw off slats from which... The width of the slats is 3 cm, the thickness is 2 cm.
3. Screwed wooden structure to the metal panel with self-tapping screws.
4. Insulation blocks cut to size are glued to the canvas and wooden frame.
5. Cracks and empty spaces not filled with foam plastic are filled with polyurethane foam.
6. After the foam has completely dried, a pre-cut fiberboard or MDF sheet is screwed to the wooden frame with self-tapping screws. To make it lie more evenly, it is better to start screwing from the top.
7. The interior lining is sanded and decorated oil paint or in another way.

Having completed the work consistently and carefully, the result will be insulated iron entrance doors.

How to choose the right metal door

You need to buy wisely. The right choice A metal door will save you from many problems in the future. Here are some tips to help you figure out what you should overpay for when buying an iron door.

1. Reliability. 90% of people choose metal structures not for aesthetic reasons. To protect yourself, loved ones and property from attacks. Decide in advance how many protective devices you will need. Perhaps a safe door would be more suitable. Often overly complex locks break, after which a new door has to be installed.
2. Strength. The metal from which entrance structures are made can be hot-rolled or cold-rolled. The first one has a dark shade, which is not always visible under the decor. It is less moisture resistant and is destroyed more quickly by corrosion. The GOST 19903 number means that this is not the best material. Cold rolled steel is more expensive, but also stronger than the previous option. Has a lighter shade. It can easily withstand weather changes. GOST number 19904.
3. Thickness. The degree of protection is proportional to the thickness of the structure and ranges from 0.8 to 4 mm. Doors with an index of 0.8 are suitable for protecting something not very valuable. The door from the entrance to the apartment should be at least 2-2.5 mm thick, for a room where owners rarely appear - up to 4 mm thick.
4. Design. The most reliable frame is monolithic, with one seam. Less robust design consists of four or eight segments. That is, the fewer seams, the better. This requirement also applies to the front part of the structure.
5. The minimum number of stiffeners is three: one horizontal and two vertical. A larger number will add reliability, but will significantly increase the weight of the steel block.
6. Hinges and locks. For a 70-kilogram fabric, two loops are enough. If the door is used too often or is heavy, use at least 3-4 hinges.
7. The optimal number of locks is also two. One, equipped with crossbars, will provide protection in the long absence of the owners. The second locking device is for daily use.
8. Thermal insulation. Of course, you can do it yourself, but it’s nicer if it’s already insulated.

We hope that this instruction will be useful to you.

Now we will look at how to insulate a metal entrance door yourself in a cottage or country house, using affordable materials and a minimum of the most common tools. Why is this so necessary? How can you insulate a metal front door yourself?

In a country house or cottage, the issue of energy saving is especially acute, because outside the city, as a rule, the temperature is lower and the humidity, on the contrary, is high. In such conditions, the front door plays a special role - the first barrier against adverse weather conditions.

A high-quality cottage entrance door simply must be warm and fit tightly to the door frame so as not to let cold air, moisture, foreign odors and sounds inside the room. This is especially true for metal doors country house, since the metal has high thermal conductivity and does not hold the cold well. So here's what you'll need.

Insulation methods

First of all, you need to find out how to insulate a metal entrance door, which method to use in this particular case. It depends on the design of the door itself, if at least one of the panels ( steel sheets) is attached to the door frame with self-tapping screws, you can use the method of internal insulation of the door. By the way, this method is considered preferable both from the point of view of the quality of insulation of the metal entrance door and from an aesthetic point of view.

But if the door is solid, that is, the metal sheets are secured with a weld, you will have to resort to external insulation of the door. There is another, unusual, way; about him - below.

First, a list of necessary tools:

• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• drill and metal drills;
• sharp knife and scissors;
• wood hacksaw with fine teeth;
• an awl or just a thin nail;
• sandpaper medium grit.

Then you should decide on the insulating material.

In principle, you can choose almost any soft or porous material as insulation:

• mineral or glass wool;
• basalt slabs;
• polystyrene foam (polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam);

It is better to immediately select foam plastic according to the thickness of the door frame, that is, according to the distance between the sheets covering it. Measure at the end.

• padding polyester;
• foam;
• and even wool batting;

Mineral wool and basalt insulation are preferable from the point of view of lightness and fire safety; when heated they do not emit harmful substances. Polystyrene foam is cheap, widespread and easy to process. Wool batting and other similar natural materials have good thermal insulation properties, are hygroscopic, that is, they easily absorb moisture, especially in high humidity; this can lead to corrosion of the inside surface of the door. Foam rubber begins to “crumble” over time; the process speeds up if the door is on south side cottage and is heated by the rays of the sun.

In addition, you will need:

• one solid sheet of laminated fiberboard no smaller than the door leaf;
• glue (“liquid nails”);
• polyurethane foam;
• a little gasoline, acetone or alcohol;
• sealant;
• two dozen short thin self-tapping screws.

The procedure for carrying out insulation work:

• First you need to unscrew the screws and remove the metal sheet that covers the frame and internal cavities of the door.

If work is carried out without removing the door from its hinges, the screws should be unscrewed starting from the bottom of the door, gradually moving up on both sides. After unscrewing a sufficient number of screws, you need to bend the bottom edge of the sheet quite a bit and place a stand of the appropriate height under it - say, a piece of board, otherwise the heavy sheet may bend or even break the last screws with its weight.

If the screws “do not work” (for example, they are rusty), it is better to remove the door, lay it horizontally on the boards and drip a special liquid or simply used machine oil onto the screws. In any case, it is easier than tearing off the screw heads and then drilling them out with a drill.

• We carefully measure the dimensions of the internal cavities of the door and cut off the foam or basalt insulation; or we measure required quantity another, soft insulation. Apply a little glue to inner surface door leaf between the frame parts and lay out the seal tightly.

Polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) can be sawed with a small hacksaw, cut with a hot knife, or even built with a special thermal cutter from taut steel wire and a low-voltage DC source. When cutting and laying out insulation, you need to take into account the presence of a lock. Some doors have a mechanism to operate additional deadbolts and may require some clearance to operate.

• There may be some unevenness and cracks left - they need to be filled with polyurethane foam.

Under no circumstances should you fill the working space of the crossbar control mechanism with foam. Squeeze out the foam carefully and a little - it expands quite violently. When expanding, the foam can displace (squeeze out) parts of the insulation; this must be monitored. Excess foam can be removed with a knife, but only after complete drying.

• We mark the size of the door leaf and cut off the fiberboard sheet.

To accurately cut fiberboard, you can lay it on a flat smooth surface Laminate side up, place the removed door panel on top, aligning the upper left corner of the panel with the corner of the fiberboard sheet. Then with a sharp knife, or better yet special cutter run several times along the perimeter of the canvas, cutting through the fiberboard. In this case, the cutter must be held at a certain angle so that the fiberboard cut does not turn out to be a millimeter larger than necessary; you also need to try not to peel off the paint from door leaf. At the same stage, using a drill with a thin drill or an awl, you can make holes in the fiberboard through the existing holes in the canvas; It is better for an assistant to hold the entire structure. After this, the canvas is removed, the excess fiberboard is simply broken off; The lint is removed from the cut site with a sharp knife and sandpaper.

• We degrease the door frame around the perimeter with gasoline or acetone. We apply thin strip sealant and apply Fiberboard laminate up.

To prevent the fiberboard sheet from “moving out,” we put several screws through the pre-made holes. Then, using a drill, we make three to five additional through holes in the fiberboard and frame on each side of the door and secure the fiberboard tightly to the frame with self-tapping screws. The sheet should be fastened from top to bottom. The main thing is to sink the screw heads well into the fiberboard.

• We degrease the laminate and the removed door leaf around the perimeter, apply a thin strip of sealant and put the leaf in place.

It is important to place the canvas as it stood before, not upside down. It is best to install the canvas with the help of an assistant; if work is carried out on a door that has not been removed, use a wooden support under the underside of the metal sheet. It is advisable to tighten the screws loosely at first, and after installing all the screws, tighten them properly.

• Last steps:
  • if necessary, remove excess sealant from the ends of the door; if it has dried out, use a knife;
  • Additionally, you can take paint to match the color of the door and paint the ends of the fiberboard, screw heads and places where the original layer of paint was damaged during the work.

The internal insulation of a metal door of a country house is completed. Such a door is practically airtight and does not allow cold to pass through: the fiberboard sheet acts as an additional gasket between the outer cold sheet of metal and the rest of the door.

We insulate a metal door from the outside

If the door is solid, non-separable, you will have to use the option external insulation, as soon as you need to insulate the metal entrance door. However, it would be unfair not to mention one more thing, non-standard version, if you are wondering how to insulate a metal entrance door, he can help you.

A non-removable metal door of a cottage can be somewhat insulated by pouring bulk material inside, for example, the same polystyrene foam, but in the form of granules. But this method has its drawbacks.

To do this, you need to drill several fairly large holes in the door leaf, through which you pour the material into the internal cavities of the door. The locations for such holes can be determined by tapping the door. But, firstly, it will most likely not be possible to achieve dense filling of the cavities; secondly, this option is absolutely not suitable for doors with a mechanism for controlling additional crossbars - it may jam; thirdly, the holes in the metal will need to be closed with plugs, but even with the most careful execution this can worsen the appearance of the door.

For external insulation, you need almost the same materials and tools as for internal insulation, with the only difference being that additional wooden planks 30x20 mm to create an external frame.

In principle, you can use metal profile U-shaped or rectangular section. But wood is much more convenient to process and more affordable from a purchasing point of view.

Stages of work on external door insulation:

• The door dimensions are measured and the horizontal and vertical slats, as well as the bulkheads of the future frame, are cut off.
• Using self-tapping screws through pre- drilled holes the slats are attached to the door leaf, creating an insulation frame.

You can ensure additional tightness of the structure by applying a very thin layer of sealant to the slats before installation. The slats should be fastened so that there is no “buckling” anywhere. The heads of the screws must be recessed into the material, for which additional recesses can be made in the slats using a drill of a larger diameter.

• The frame cavities are filled with insulation similar to the procedure for external insulation, using glue applied to the door leaf.
• A fiberboard sheet is cut and installed with the smooth side facing out. You can also apply some sealant here. The sheet is fixed with screws. The screw heads must also be recessed into the material.

It’s better not to be lazy and drill holes slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws, so that the slats of the already finished frame filled with insulation do not crack in any case.

• The fiberboard sheet can be decorated with any in an accessible way- from simple painting to dermantin sheathing.

Insulation of the box

How to insulate a metal entrance door: in order to completely block the access of cold air inside a country house, it is not enough to insulate only the door itself - you also need to insulate the frame. Between the box and the sides doorway Unscrupulous installers sometimes leave quite wide gaps.

These gaps need to be addressed as soon as you realize it’s time to insulate your metal front door. This is done by blowing into the cracks polyurethane foam. After drying, the excess polyurethane foam is cut off, and the joint between the frame and the wall is plastered in several layers.

It is better to use professional foam, which will not “lead” the box when it expands. It is advisable to alternate layers of plaster with layers of reinforcing metal mesh, otherwise the plaster will soon simply crumble due to vibrations caused by impacts from closing a heavy metal door.

The very last step is to eliminate possible gaps between the door and the frame. This is the simplest stage - you just need to purchase a tape of rubber or foam rubber self-adhesive seal of the required thickness and glue it to the desired places on the door and frame. In addition, the seal will soften and make the impact of the door on the frame quieter.

Before laying the tape seal, the surface must be degreased. A rubber seal is preferable to a foam seal; it lasts longer. It is advisable to glue the insulation to places where it will not be torn off by feet or shoulders. For example, it is better not to be lazy and stick the seal not on the threshold of the box, but on bottom part doors - this way it will also become less dirty.

You can check the quality of the seal very simply; you need to open the window on the opposite side of the cottage and run a damp hand along the perimeter of the door: if there is a draft, it will be immediately detected. In this case, you can simply add a little more sealant. Keep in mind that the seal will wear out over time and will still need to be replaced periodically.

Complete insulation of the external metal door of a country house with your own hands is completed. If all work was carried out with due care, such a door will perform well in retaining heat and will last a very long time.

How to insulate an iron entrance door - this question is relevant both for owners of apartments and private houses. This is due to the fact that metal doors are the most popular today, but the disadvantage of many such models is poor thermal insulation. In terms of safety, this is ideal option, can protect you from burglary, then there are many questions about the heat-insulating and sound-absorbing properties of such doors, but do not worry, this problem can be eliminated quite easily and quickly by following insulation work with your own hands.

Often the entrance door, especially a metal one, requires additional insulation

Materials

How can you insulate an iron entrance door? Today's market building materials provides a huge range of insulation materials of various types. Depending on the minimum temperature in winter, you can purchase expensive and high-quality polyurethane foam or polystyrene. If you live in an area with a fairly warm climate, you can limit yourself to more simple materials. In such cases, mineral wool, polystyrene foam, foam rubber and isolon sheets are often used for insulation. Granules of polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, and ecowool can be used as bulk insulation for doors.

Mineral wool - traditional insulation for entrance doors

So how to insulate iron door and other structural elements in a private house can be done in several ways; the material must be selected based on the thickness of the metal, the structural features of the door, its standard filling and other characteristics. In addition, care should be taken to seal seams and cracks in the wall itself.

Internal insulation of a standard door

So, how to insulate an iron entrance door? Standard models They are a sheet of metal reinforced with stiffening ribs. Some modern doors you can open them and see them internal filling. Simple models- This is a single sheet of thick steel. In both cases, this insulation method will be suitable.

First you need to remove all the fittings: handles, locks, peephole. It is necessary to take dimensions from each section separated by stiffening ribs; based on these data, it is necessary to cut the insulation into fragments for each section, and then lay each piece in its place. The edges of the insulation should fit snugly against the walls of the door, so when cutting it is better to add 5-10 mm on each side. Using sealant or polyurethane foam, seal all joints to eliminate cold bridges.

The design of a high-quality entrance door always involves a layer of insulation

After this, a sheet identical in size to the door leaf is cut out of fiberboard or plywood. Place it on top of the insulation. Using metal screws, screw the sheet tightly to the door leaf. Depending on the type of metal, you may additionally need a drill, then the plywood is secured with screws.

Internal insulation of non-demountable models

If you have a complex model installed that is impossible to disassemble, then you can insulate such an iron door from the inside in another way; unlike the previous ones, this method is even simpler. For this, dry insulation in granules is used; walls and roofs are also insulated in a similar way. What is the principle of working with dry insulation? It does not need to be laid or additionally secured; it is enough to simply fill the hollow space inside the door leaf; small granules will fill all the voids. To evenly distribute the material and compact it better, you need to knock on the sides of the door or shake it, tapping it on the floor, if this is, of course, possible.

Expanded polystyrene granules will help solve the problem of insulating a non-removable entrance door

Polystyrene foam granules or foam balls are most often used as insulation for such cases. Previously, sawdust was used, but their thermal insulation properties were much lower than those of modern materials.

One thing worth considering important detail: if you have a door installed with special locking bolts that are part of an anti-burglary system, this method of increasing thermal insulation properties should not be used.

The fact is that insulation granules can clog into this system and, thus, block the movement of these parts.

External insulation

Now let's look at how to insulate an iron door from the outside. In addition to internal insulation you can fix the insulation from the outside on top of the door leaf, this will not only allow you to achieve better effect, but will also transform the appearance of the door. To do this, you will need a piece of dermantine, slightly larger in size than the door itself and several strips of small width; with their help, sealing rollers are installed around the perimeter of the door.

Using glue and dermantine, a rolled piece of soft sealant is attached to the metal, then sheets of insulation are also attached to the canvas using glue; this can be foam rubber, polyurethane foam, isolon or mineral wool. Final stage– gluing dermantine. Its edges are folded up so that the cuts are not visible and glued over the rollers. Then all the fittings are installed in place.

Seams and gaps

To achieve maximum efficiency It is necessary to ensure complete sealing of seams and joints. First of all, you need to seal the gaps that remain after installation. door frame. Identifying them is quite simple: just bring your palm to the opening and move it along the entire perimeter; in places that require insulation, a draft will be felt. You can also use a burning candle; its flame will flutter intensely in the areas where there are cracks.

Silicone sealant is used to insulate the seams

You can insulate an iron door and door frame with your own hands using various materials. In order to seal cracks and joints, polyurethane foam is most often used. After hardening, the excess is cut off with a knife, and the remaining foam is covered with plaster or platbands. If you do not close it, the material will very quickly collapse under the influence of light. You can also use silicone or rubber sealant instead of foam, it is much more convenient to apply, and you can seal even the smallest cracks.

The next step is to insulate the joints of the door and hatch. The first way: rubber. To do this, you need to cut strips of small width and glue them around the perimeter of the loot. You can purchase ready-made parts; they will provide better insulation, as they will fit more tightly to the door leaf. In the closed position, this insulation will ensure complete sealing of the seams.

Second method: foam rubber. The principle of operation is the same; it is also installed around the perimeter of the hole. It is not difficult to find strips of foam rubber of the required width on the building materials market; they are convenient because one side of them is an adhesive tape, so they are very easy to attach. A more modern and reliable material is isolon. By appearance and the principle of fastening these two products are almost the same.

Knowing how to insulate an iron door, you don’t have to be afraid that the winter cold will come knocking on your house. The process of improving doors yourself will not take much time, and the consumption of materials is relatively small, but you will be reliably protected not only from the penetration of strangers, but also from drafts and frost.

The closer the cold weather comes, the more apartment owners worry about drafts and the temperature in their home. According to statistics, about 30 percent of heat energy is “lost” due to cracks and insufficient thermal insulation. The most problem areas- This windows and doors. The first ones are easy to figure out: metal-plastic windows with double glazed windows protect the apartment from drafts and frost. But how can you prevent cold from entering from the front door? This issue is especially relevant for those people who have metal doors installed. Everyone knows that metal has excellent thermal conductivity. This means that valuable heat disappears without a trace. And although an iron door protects your home from burglars and thieves much better than a wooden one, it cannot cope with frost. To improve insulation, you need to take care of insulating the front door.

What is needed to strengthen an iron entrance door?

The main problem that apartment and house owners face is that this task seems very difficult. In fact create an additional layer on already finished door enough Just. Even a person who does not often do this kind of thing can cope with this work. In addition, they are not needed for insulation special tools and materials. Everything you need can be found at your nearest hardware store. If you don’t know how to insulate an iron door, then prepare work tools from this list.

• drill,
• pencil,
• screwdriver,
• electric jigsaw,
• roulette.

And, of course, to you will be required the following materials:

• Fibreboard, MDF or chipboard (depending on personal preference),
• sealant,
• insulation (expanded polystyrene, polystyrene foam or mineral wool),
• screws,
• polyurethane foam,
• liquid nails.

How to insulate an iron door from the inside: instructions

Most easy way to create a warm and cozy atmosphere at home and get rid of the cold forever - insulate the door from the inside. First you need a metal door remove from hinges. It will be much easier and more convenient to do this work if the door is in a horizontal position. The metal sheet is always secured with self-tapping screws. Carefully unscrew them and examine the interior. Using a tape measure and pencil take all measurements and write them down. This must be done in advance to prepare thermal insulation materials. Inside you will notice profile pipes, which divide the space into small cells. It is this design that makes the door durable. But you can drill small holes in the pipes to fill them with foam. Choose a drill, slightly thicker than the thickness of a foam canister tube. Then carefully lay out the pieces of heat-insulating material, pre-cut to fit the required form. Make sure that the lock and peephole remain freely accessible.

The insulation is best mounted on liquid nails to ensure its immobility. But cracks formed between different pieces of material, you need seal with foam. Leave no gaps to achieve maximum effect.

After completing the rough work, you can begin finishing. The lining of even expensive doors is very often not made from a single sheet of fiberboard. We recommend replacing the questionable material with a new, thick sheet of fiberboard (do not forget to adjust it to the required dimensions). It is attached using ordinary screws.

And only after that you can start final assembly. Metal sheet returns to its place and secured with self-tapping screws. Then carefully examine the resulting door. All possible cracks need to be sealed.

How to insulate an iron entrance door with your own hands?

But it is not always possible to insulate the door from the inside. In this case, care must be taken to conserve heat energy another way. Insulation is not attached inside, but outside. How to do this? After all, this part does not provide recesses for laying insulating materials.

This method will require a little more time and effort. You need to start with manufacturing special door frames. Remove the door itself from its hinges and carefully measure its sides. The frame will require regular wooden slats . They must be smooth (curved and deformed will not work). It is advisable to use materials with a thickness of about 20 millimeters and a width of no more than 30 millimeters.

Created wooden frame should go along the perimeter of the door itself. Increase strength designs will help cross slats . It can be secured using ordinary self-tapping screws. This way you create an internal cavity yourself. You can fill out foam or mineral wool . It is best to attach the insulation to the same liquid nails.

All gaps between pieces of foam plastic (or other insulation) it is necessary blow out with foam. Try not to miss even small voids. Leave the door until the foam is completely dry.

Now we need to get busy finishing, which will hide the insulating materials. If you want to know how to insulate a metal door, then take a sheet of fiberboard or MDF and adjust it to the size of the door. This layer must be attached with special care. To do this, first try the sheet on the door, and only then start screwing in the screws. We recommend making holes in the metal in advance so that the screws can be screwed in without much effort.

How to insulate an iron door in a private house?

The problem of a private house is that between the there is not a single barrier between the door and the street. IN apartment buildings The entrance door separates the front door from the cold and frost. The temperature there is always several degrees higher. This means that heat and cold do not collide on both sides of the same sheet of metal. In a private house the iron door is often covered with frost. The whole point is that the temperature in the hallway is positive when negative temperatures prevail outside. It will not be possible to get rid of this problem with the help of insulation. Best way to save heat energy in such a situation - make a small “dressing room”, for example, glaze the veranda.

How to insulate an iron entrance door: video

Insulation of iron doors has several solutions. But it is important not only to know the list of materials and their properties, but also to be able to independently carry out all the work of dismantling the door trim, insulating it and reassembling it. Will help you cope with the task detailed instructions on the selection and installation of thermal insulation materials.

Insulating doors is not as complicated a process as it might seem. First of all, you need to decide on a material that will provide the required level of thermal insulation in the hallway. This not an easy task, because the market is saturated with numerous offers from manufacturers of products for finishing, repair and construction.

Insulation of a metal door is possible in several ways. Which one is best in this case is decided after reading all the instructions, evaluating all the pros and cons of the materials, their cost and availability, and ease of installation. It is recommended to listen to the advice of specialists.

Mineral and stone wool

Mineral and stone wool are commonly used insulation materials for doors. This is due to the properties of the materials, including low thermal conductivity. To the advantages of mineral and stone wool ease of installation can also be attributed. There are various modifications of materials of this type on the market, which can be divided into two categories:

• roll;
• slab.

You can use any, but slab ones are more convenient and easy to install. When laying them, a large amount of dust from small fibers is not released, as when using rolled mineral wool. But, regardless of the type, this thermal insulation for entrance doors has one drawback, which is its hygroscopicity.

Metal door at negative temperatures outside the room and positive - inside it, on the one hand, it cools, and on the other, it heats up. This leads to the formation of condensation inside the casing. Drops of water flowing onto the mineral or stone wool sheets will moisten it. Wet insulation is not able to fully protect interior spaces from heat loss.

Due to hygroscopicity fibrous materials It is recommended to place them between the door trim, having previously packed them in plastic bags. This reduces the risk of the insulation getting wet.

Fibrous materials also have another drawback: over time, they tend to settle, forming voids. The entrance door is often opened and closed, which leads to a gradual displacement of the mineral or stone wool panels. This is an important drawback, because the insulation must fit tightly to the canvas.

Foam and polystyrene

There is no such thermal insulation material as polystyrene. Foam plastic is made from this substance, which can be used for insulation. various designs and products. It is most often placed in the cavity between the sheathing in the manufacture of expensive entrance structures. This decision of the manufacturers is justified by the numerous advantages of polystyrene foam:

1. Non-hygroscopic.
2. Self-extinguishing ability (does not support combustion in the absence of a fire source).
3. Low thermal conductivity.
4. Durability.
5. Ability to maintain shape throughout the entire period of operation.

Therefore, door insulation such as polystyrene foam is more popular than mineral or stone wool. But with all its advantages, it has its drawback - rigidity. For this reason, it is impossible to fill the door cavity with polystyrene foam so that there are no gaps between the insulation and the door leaf. But we can solve this issue with the help of polyurethane foam, which can eliminate the slightest cracks.

Izolon

Such a filler for entrance doors, such as isolon, is made on the basis of foamed polyethylene, consisting of many “cells” closed on all sides and filled with air. Single- or double-sided foiling is possible, which provides reflectivity.

Distinctive feature isolon is that it itself has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, but is thin material. Therefore, it is not able to provide complete protection of interior spaces from the penetration of cold air. Insulating a door with isolon is possible if it is multi-layer installation.

Foam rubber

Present in the trading network wide range materials with better thermal insulation properties than foam rubber. But this material is available and has a low price. In this regard, it is not difficult to find a canvas the right size. However, insulating an iron door with foam rubber is no longer as popular as it used to be. This material can be used if there is no other option. It should be noted that over time the foam rubber begins to crumble, which will require its replacement with another, more durable one. the best material.

Polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is a high-density foam, therefore it has the best thermal insulation qualities. Insulation metal doors these materials are performed in the same way.

If the canvas is factory-made, it can only be insulated by first disassembling the casing. If the door is a sheet of metal, reinforced on one side with stiffening ribs, polyurethane foam or polystyrene foam is glued to the door from the room side. Then fill the cracks with polyurethane foam. The next step is the sheathing entrance structure suitable material: OSB, moisture resistant plywood, metal.

Choice of insulation

When choosing an insulation option, first of all, pay attention to the design of the door leaf, and secondly, determine the thickness of the material for insulating the doors. If the product is factory-made, measure the depth of all its cells, if any. In this way, they find out which door insulation is suitable in this case. Important selection criteria:

• thermal conductivity coefficient;
• ease of installation;
• thickness;
• the ability to fill all the cracks and recesses of the canvas.

Do not ignore self-adhesive door insulation. They are able to be securely attached to metal, which ensures the required joint density. This type of material often has one- or two-sided foil. In the first case, it is important to lay it so that the metallized canvas faces the inside of the room. Thanks to this, heat will be returned.

Additional methods

It is not enough to insulate an iron door from the inside. It is necessary to carry out a set of works to eliminate the cracks around it. In this way, cracks along the frame, including the threshold, are eliminated. This is how both old and newly purchased doors are insulated.

Boxes

The insulation of the door frame of an apartment is carried out using polyurethane foam. To do this, drill holes of small diameter through which the voids are filled. thermal insulation material. If there are gaps between the canvas and the box, you must use rubber seals. They are glued at the locations of the cracks along the perimeter of the canvas. This work is not difficult, because such seals have self-adhesive backing.

Upholstery fabric

In order to insulate a door in an apartment, it is recommended to use the dermantine upholstery method. In the retail chain you can buy kits designed for this purpose. These include: upholstery and fastening elements - nails or self-tapping screws with a decorative head. First, a layer of insulation is laid, then it is covered with upholstery material and the screws are fastened in accordance with the selected pattern.

Two-door vestibule

If there is no possibility or desire to insulate the front door, you can install a second one from the side interior space apartments, thus constructing a vestibule. This will prevent cold air from entering the house. But this possibility is rarely resorted to, because small apartments hallways small size. And installing a vestibule will further reduce the free space. There is one more drawback to this insulation method: you will now have to open and close two doors, which is not always convenient.

How to insulate an iron entrance door

You can insulate a door with your own hands in several ways:

• between cladding panels;
• from the side of the room;
• from the entrance or street.

Complex installation work different in each case. In the first option, when insulating between the upholstery panels, it is necessary to carry out work on dismantling and installing the structure entrance canvas and boxes.

Required materials and tools

To perform the work you will need tools that every owner has. These are screwdrivers, scissors, a screwdriver, pliers, and a tape measure. Mineral wool or polystyrene foam can be glued to Titan or Moment glue or liquid nails. A door insulated with your own hands will delight you for many years.