Why violets have soft leaves: main factors and plant treatment. Why the violet began to wither: possible reasons What to do if the violet leaves wither

One of the most beautiful flowering bushes can rightfully be called weigelu. This heat-loving plant was brought to Europe from Southeast Asian countries. The wildly flowering bush quickly gained popularity among gardeners. Beautiful flowers and the lush greenery of the bush becomes a decoration for any garden. In order for the plant to constantly delight with its beauty, it plays an important role proper cultivation weigels, but also of course timely pruning. In our article we will talk about autumn pruning weigels.

It would seem that winter is a time of rest for gardeners; until spring they can relax after all the troubles of the last season. But they stopped making noise new year holidays, the fuss subsided, and an itch of impatience appeared in my hands - I already want to start gardening. And not in vain - many flowers need early boarding. A grower's lunar sowing calendar for January 2020, indicating the days of the new moon, full moon, quarters of the moon, the location of the moon in the signs of the Zodiac, as well as favorable and unfavorable days for planting plants, including indoor plants. Lunar calendar the florist will allow you to almost always be aware of what the Moon is at the moment. The florist's lunar sowing calendar for January 2020 will be able to assist you in planning work with flowers and will be able to help you determine favorable and unfavorable days months for sowing plants and caring for them.

Eustoma never ceases to gain attention thanks to its decorative qualities, thanks to long-term storage cut flowers. It is not surprising that more and more new varieties, as well as hybrids, are appearing on sale. But, as everyone knows, in order to grow such beautiful flower, you need to work hard. This should be done especially at the beginning, when seedlings are grown. How you will grow the plant depends on initial stage his future depends. This is exactly what will be discussed in this article. You will learn about when and how to sow eustoma seedlings, as well as how to care for it after the first shoots appear.

Covering roses for the winter in the Moscow region - what materials to cover roses for the winter, when is the best time to do this and at what temperature. If roses do not overwinter well, then next season they will be weakened and susceptible to infections. How to cover roses is a task that worries gardeners on the eve of winter. The more difficult question is: how and when to cover roses for the winter in the Moscow region?

Almost all flower growers know about the wonderful effects of succinic acid on plants. What is this? Succinic acid is a colorless crystalline substance. In the natural environment, it is found in amber, resins, brown coal, and is also present in all living organisms that use oxygen for respiration. For the first time succinic acid It was isolated from amber in the 15th century, and that’s where its name came from. Now acid is obtained not only during the processing of amber, but also through chemical synthesis. The acid obtained by processing amber is expensive, but its composition is no different from that obtained artificially. There are inexpensive chemical preparations available for sale, which are odorless white crystals. Release form: tablets or powder. In this article we will tell you how to use succinic acid for orchids.

Kalina – beautiful bush and a most valuable healing plant: its fruits are a real storehouse of vitamins! Delicious jams and marshmallows, fruit drinks and compotes are prepared from viburnum, rubbed with honey and made into jelly. An aromatic healing tea is brewed from dried berries. It is very important to prepare viburnum correctly so that the dish is not only healthy, but also tasty - without bitterness. This is easy to do if you know a few secrets and follow simple preparation rules, which will be discussed now. Simple recipes from viburnum for the winter, read our article.

Who among us has not encountered similar phenomenon in your collection? It is of an off-season nature, but more often it occurs or cold winter or very hot summer. And it is the result of the fact that the root system has ceased to function.

And the main reasons causing such a deplorable state of plants are re-:

overdrying;
waterlogging;
hypothermia;
overheat.

It is especially destructive for plants if these factors are summed up: hypothermia and waterlogging, overdrying and overheating. In the cold season, when keeping plants on the windowsill, we are faced with the first pair of negative factors. In summer and sometimes when growing violets on a shelf - from the second.

And if novice flower growers’ violets suffer from the inability to properly water the plants, as well as select right size pot and a suitable substrate, then for experienced ones - from the inability to properly water va There is no such thing as each specimen due to their huge number and inconvenient conditions for care (when plants are placed under the ceiling, and they are watered while standing on tiptoe on the top step of a rickety stepladder, or even simply blindly).

How to save violets damaged by improper care?

First of all, you need to figure out what exactly happened to the plant: was it flooded or dried? The phenomena are diametrically opposite, but the clinical picture is almost the same: drooping leaves that have lost turgor.

If during your next watering you find a wilted plant in your collection, under no circumstances should you water it automatically, especially with a double portion of water, wanting to make up for the obviously missed watering. After all, if the cause of wilting is waterlogging of the soil, then another portion of water is guaranteed to kill the affected plant.

First of all, you need to take the wilted plant in your hands and determine what’s wrong with it. If the soil in the pot is absolutely dry, light reddish in color, often slightly moving away from the walls of the pot, and the pot seems weightless, the plant is overdried. When the soil is wet to the touch, its color is dark, and the pot has noticeable weight, it means the plant is flooded (overmoistened).

Resuscitation for dryness

If the plant is slightly wilted and you are sure you accidentally missed it during the previous watering, simply water the violet as usual. As a rule, this is enough and after a few hours she will fully recover.

When the substrate is very dry, the root hairs and part of the thin roots that provide the suction function of the roots die (dry out). Therefore, the first watering after drying out should not be very abundant.. To quickly and completely restore a very wilted plant, it is advisable to place it in a plastic bag for 1-3 days. The results will be better and appear faster if you squirt warm water into the bag several times. When the turgor of the leaves is completely restored, remove the bag from the violet, carefully water the soil in the pot, and place the plant somewhere in plain sight so that it is convenient to observe its condition. Since the complete restoration of a partially dead root system takes one to two weeks, watering must be careful and careful during this entire time.

If after a few days of keeping high humidity The turgor of the leaves is not restored, and the violet, when the bag is removed, drops the leaves again, which means that the root system has completely died due to severe drying. Then the plant will have to be cut out. That is, remove the underground part of the stem, along with the lobe of old, dead roots, and re-root the plant. In order for roots to form faster and better, we remove the three lower leaves (if the plant is mature and very leafy, much more is possible). IN glass jar(for example, from mayonnaise), pour water, place the plant with its leaves on the edges of the jar and place it in a transparent plastic bag, where to create more high humidity air, inject a little warm water. After 2-4 weeks, a powerful layer of young roots forms in the water. We plant the violet in a pot in loose, airy soil, water it lightly and place it in a bag again for two weeks. This way the plant will take root faster and more reliably. Then we make several holes in the bag, or untie it, but do not remove it completely, in order to gradually accustom the leaves to air with lower humidity. After 1-2 weeks, the package can be completely removed. The plant is restored, and at the same time rejuvenated.

Resuscitation for waterlogging

In the case of a plant that has suffered from waterlogging, you must first try to remove excess water from the ground as quickly and completely as possible. Paper napkins and towels are good for this, or at worst newspapers (not glossy ones). Wrap the pot tightly and regularly replace wet paper with dry paper. To speed it up, you can remove the plant from the pot and dry the lump of earth with roots with paper.

Then we determine how damaged the root system is, and whether the plant can be restored to its previous quality or needs to be re-cutted.

If the petioles of the lower leaves have rotted where they are attached to the stem, then we remove the old root system without delay - there are definitely no living roots, and there is nothing to save. When the roots fall off with a slight twitch, it means they are dead and must be removed as soon as possible. If none of this is observed, you can risk restoring the plant without removing all the roots. First we need to make sure that the root rotting process has not affected the plant itself. We make a cross section of the underground part of the stem, retreating 0.5–1 cm from its end. We carefully examine the cut. If it is clean, green, without signs of rot, dust it with powder charcoal, shake off the old soil from the roots and plant the violet in fresh, slightly moistened, very airy, with a high content of perlite, in big pot.

It is advisable to place the reanimated plant in a greenhouse or a plastic bag for some time. The first waterings are very light; adding Fitosporin is helpful. 1-2 weeks after the complete restoration of leaf turgor, we begin to accustom the violet to the drier air of the apartment. And after some time we return it to the windowsill.

If the root system is damaged but not rotten, you can try to restore it by wrapping the entire plant in a cylinder of newspaper for 1-2 weeks.

However, the surest and most reliable way to resuscitate (save) a flooded violet remains its re-rooting, and the vast majority of experienced collectors prefer not to take risks, but to immediately cut off the roots of a wilted violet and re-root it. And they do it in different ways. Yulia Andrusenko roots a plant in sphagnum (in a bag). When it has grown a decent amount of roots, remove the moss if possible, and plant the violet in a small pot in light soil (as for planting leaves). Larisa Galitskaya pours loose soil into a pot and places a layer of sphagnum on top. The violet rosette is placed on top, and the stem partially passes through the sphagnum and almost touches the substrate. The rooting process takes place in a plastic bag. If after 3-4 weeks the plant does not move when lightly pressed, it means it has taken root. Larisa unties the bag, but removes it after 2-3 weeks or later. Some of her violets even manage to bloom in a half-open bag.

Tamara Kopeikina roots immediately in the substrate, simply adding her basic earthen mixture and more cultivators (perlite and vermiculite), takes a small pot, and keeps the plant in the greenhouse for quite a long time. Violetta Katkova uses either pure vermiculite or a mixture of vermiculite and sphagnum as a loose rooting substrate. Roots form easily, grow quickly, vermiculite is easily shaken off the roots without damaging them before planting the plant in a nutrient substrate. Tanya Kuzina and Olya Aksenkina root plants using unique capabilities wick irrigation. insert a wick into a small pot and plant a plant without roots in it, place it on a container of water. The rosette of leaves is covered with a transparent bag on top and secured. If after 2-3 weeks the violet does not move when pressed, it means that the roots have grown into the ground. After this, the bag at the bottom can be untied, and after a few days it can be removed completely.

In winter, plants' leaves sometimes wilt if they are located on an icy windowsill. At extremely low (for this crop) temperatures, the healthiest and strongest root system cannot function normally. But it is enough to place such a plant in a warm place, for example, on a rack with lamps, and it will come to its senses quite quickly. Try, as far as possible, to seal the windows, caulk and seal all cracks with foam rubber. To be on the safe side, you can keep plants in winter in boxes with high sides, preferably in foam plastic boxes. It doesn’t look very aesthetically pleasing, but the plants are reliably protected from icy blowing, and at the same time from dry hot air rising from the battery.

Many amateur gardeners suffer from plants grown in pots that are too large. This problem occurs especially often during transplants, when young plant from a plastic cup or small pot they are transplanted immediately into a large pot with a diameter of 12-15 cm. A small root system cannot develop such a huge volume of soil. After watering, the substrate does not dry out for a long time; therefore, the roots do not breathe for too long and die. Remember! Violets cannot be grown in very large pots, as they have a small, not very powerful root system. And to fully provide the plant with nutrients, it is better to take the path of more frequent transplants and replace the old substrate with a new one. And never plant a plant in a pot “to grow.” Its volume should always correspond to the size of the root system. And the next container size can be used only after the roots have completely mastered the volume of the old pot. Only fairly experienced gardeners can afford to “jump” one or two sizes, but with very loose soil and very careful watering for a month after transplanting.

The root system also suffers from growing plants in pots that are too small. If you are doing this specifically to miniaturize your plants, be sure to water them regularly. Because watering errors in this case lead to regular drying out. And, as a consequence, to the partial death of the root system. And the dead roots - open gate for infection and a nutrient medium for fungal pathogens. This is especially destructive for plants in the summer, when drying out occurs very quickly, and this is accompanied by severe overheating of the small pot. And fungal diseases develop rapidly in hot weather. The solution, as in the previous case, is the optimal size of the pot for this specimen. For young rosettes these are plastic cups or pots with a diameter of 6-8 cm. For adult plants - a diameter of 9-10 cm. For very large violets with a huge root system, a diameter of 11-12 cm is acceptable, but this is perhaps the limit.

Growing violets in a clay substrate that is too heavy also leads to problems with the root system. The roots of Saintpaulias are thin and delicate; they cannot develop in such an environment. The situation is also aggravated by poor aeration of such soil, but according to research by American specialists, ideal soil for violets it should consist of a third of earth, a third of water and a third of air. When making your own substrate, take soil only with a crumbly, granular structure, well processed by earthworms.

And the last reason leading to the depressed state of the plant is its old age. Such violets have a long, often curving stem, at the end of which there is a faded rosette of discolored leaves. Old roots do not cope well with all their functions; they easily break off, rot and die. They feel like bast. And the only way to save such a plant is to rejuvenate it, that is, to recut it. And in six months your violet will be unrecognizable! But it is more correct, of course, not to bring the plant to such a state and, with each planned replanting, to carry out partial rejuvenation, namely: deepen the neck (stem) that formed to the lower leaves, and shorten its underground part by 1/4-1/3 of the length, so as not to increase the size of the pot and stimulate the formation of new young roots in the upper part of the stem.

So, the main reasons for plants wilting:

overdrying;
overheat;
waterlogging;
hypothermia;
pot too big;
the ground is too heavy;
pot too small;
very old plant.

I hope that knowing this will help you avoid care mistakes and minimize the loss of plants in your collection.

Afterword

It helps a lot not to flood the plants and to control the amount of water measured when watering each specimen, such a substrate, which in a dry, semi-dry and wet state has different shades colors. If you are in doubt whether a given plant needs to be watered, simply touch the surface of the soil with your finger. This is an excellent indicator of the degree of hydration that will never let you down. Watering is not carried out on wet and moist soil. If in a hurry you watered a violet that didn’t need it, it doesn’t matter: wash the plastic pot several times, loosen the soil, fill it with air – and the plant will cope. Or place a paper napkin under the pot. Those who like to water, add more perlite to the substrate - this will help the plant endure your passion. And try to find the courage to control optimal size collections so that the care of each plant is at least a little individual.

Your I.L. Danilina

Danilina Irina Leonidovna

Phone number for contact and orders: 8 495 430-63-59 , 8-917-545-6727 (mobile)

Details about ordering plants and their delivery throughout Russia in the section

Home violet - delicate flower, acutely reacting to any sins in growing conditions. Most often, correction of care allows you to save the plant. If the leaves have just begun to wither, it is urgent to establish the cause and eliminate it.

Why do violet leaves wither and how to help the flower

Among the causes of wilting of violet leaves, there are practically no fatal ones: most of them can be dealt with if you start fighting in time. Only diseases and pests will cause difficulties; other reasons are related to the conditions of detention.

Incorrect lighting

Violets should be illuminated by natural light at least 12 hours a day. And if in summer there is enough light on the windowsill, then in winter time violets necessarily require additional illumination with artificial lamps. The spectrum must be selected so that it is as close as possible to the natural, solar one. Both phytolamps and ordinary fluorescent ones with white light are suitable.

If lighting is to blame for the wilting of violets, it’s easy to fix

Violets can also begin to fade from excess lighting, or more precisely, from its intensity: the point is the scorching sun, which often happens in the summer in the case of southern windows. If things haven't progressed too far, moving the pot to a moderate light area can help the plant recover on its own. The burned areas of the leaves may need to be carefully trimmed.

Irrigation errors

The roots of violets are shallow, so you need to water them carefully. Even watering with a stream can cause exposed roots, which will affect the health of the plant. And excessive moisture will lead to their rotting and, possibly, death. But violets do not grow in dry soil. They are watered through a tray, little by little but often: 2–3 times a week in summer and 1 time in winter, clean water room temperature.

It’s even better if the violets take water from the pan through the wick

If the roots begin to rot from overwatering, the violet should be transplanted into a new pot with fresh soil, cutting off the damaged fragments. Well, if the leaves wither from drought, it’s not at all difficult: add water!

Improper feeding

Both lack and excess of nutrition can harm violets. The plant is especially demanding of nutrition in the spring, when intensive growth of green mass begins and preparation for flowering. Violets are not fed for a month after transplantation and if the soil is too dry. The rest of the time, supplements are given 2 times a month, using complex fertilizers, preferably specifically designed for violets. But after the buds appear, nitrogen is eliminated. Overfeeding, especially with nitrogen fertilizers, can play a role bad role: in this case, the leaves grow unnaturally, become loose, and a corresponding increase in the root mass is not observed. As a result, the slightest changes in conditions can cause leaves to wilt.

If the owner knows that he has missed fertilizing, it is enough to add it (in the spring with an emphasis on nitrogen, in the summer on potassium). In case of excess nutrition, only replanting into fresh slightly acidic soil, consisting of a nutritious part ( turf land with humus or compost), fillers (rotted pine needles, peat) and leavening agents (permite, verticulite). There are many recipes for making soil, but it is much easier to buy a ready-made mixture in the store.

Selected in special fertilizers optimal composition microelements

Air characteristics

Violets love a stable temperature within 18–25 o C and air humidity of 60–70%. And if they tolerate some increase in humidity, then dry air is harmful. Therefore, if the pot is near the radiator, you should purchase an air humidifier. Adjusting the temperature is easier; As a rule, changes caused by the state of the air are completely reversible.

Diseases and pests

This is the most bad option: It is difficult to recognize the disease, but it can be cured, although not quickly. Immediately the plant must be isolated from others, try to establish a diagnosis and apply the appropriate drug. A transplant will also be required. Most often, violets are overtaken by late blight and fusarium: fungal diseases, which are treated, for example, with Fitosporin.

Fusarium initially appears as brownish spots

Many pests can be detected by examining leaves through a magnifying glass. These can be thrips, nematodes, mites. A number of pests settle in the soil, so replanting is required.

Photo gallery: pests on violets

The result of the action of almost invisible nematodes is swelling and unnatural growths on the roots. Thrips settle on the leaves and look like tiny white streaks. Among the mites, the most noticeable and harmful is the cyclamen mite.

But treatment without modern insecticides or acaricides is unlikely to be possible. Many drugs are suitable, but it is advisable to choose those approved for use at home. A number of drugs have a systemic effect, destroying both insects and ticks. These are, for example, Agravertin, Fitoverm and Vermitek: when used strictly according to the instructions, you can reliably destroy pests without causing harm to the owner.

Video: what to do if the plant cannot be saved

There are many reasons for the wilting of violet leaves, but we must not forget about the most basic one: perhaps the plant has been sitting on the plant for a long time. permanent place. And it needs to be replanted annually.

Filling with water - common reason death of violets. The waterlogged substrate begins to rot, infecting the roots with this process. The leaves of the plant lose their elasticity, become limp and drooping. Also, excess moisture leads to fungal diseases, bacterial infections. In this case, it is completely pointless to spray or water the violet with healing solutions; it cannot save it from flooding.

If you have flooded your violet, you can save it by following the steps below.

First of all, you need to remove the violet from the pot. If it smells like damp earth, it will be enough to remove excess moisture. To do this, the earthen ball together with the plant must be placed on a cotton cloth, toilet paper or paper towel folded several times. They need to be changed as soon as they get wet. This needs to be done within 24 hours, after which you can return the violet to its original pot.

If the smell of rot and decomposition comes from a lump of earth, it is necessary to remove part of the soil and rotten roots. Healthy roots have a white or slightly brownish color. The roots are separated using a regular fork or a wooden stick with a pointed end. As a rule, the affected roots fall off with the soil.

Next, the remaining soil and roots are rinsed in potassium permanganate or the “Maxim” preparation, the excess moisture is allowed to drain off and dried, as in the first case. Dried roots are rolled in river sand, previously thoroughly washed and dried, and vermiculite, mixed in equal parts.

All flower stalks, as well as lower leaves need to be removed and the sections sprinkled with crushed charcoal or activated carbon. You will need a different pot, with a diameter slightly larger than the remaining earthen lump. First, drainage is poured into it, then substrate is poured 1 centimeter deep.

The diseased violet is carefully lowered into the pot and covered nutrient soil, mixed with sand and vermiculite 2:1:1. Around the circumference of the pot, you need to bury 5-6 pieces of charcoal into the soil (can be replaced with activated tablets).

After this, the pot with the plant should be placed in a warm place. You should refrain from watering until it dries out. top layer soil. In the future, you will need to water the violet little by little, with warm boiled water, very carefully.

To improve establishment, the violet after planting can be lightly sprayed with a solution of Zircon or Epin. Then the pot must be placed in a dark, dry and warm place for at least 6 hours, after which it will be possible to move it to the light.

The surviving violet will give new leaves, and then it will be possible to transplant it into a normal substrate, shaking off the sand from the roots.

Most often, violets die from overwatering, i.e. too frequent watering. A substrate that is too wet will rot, and with it the roots of the plant. With slight waterlogging, the leaves gradually turn yellow; with severe waterlogging, the leaves lose turgor: they become sluggish, inelastic, and sag. Excessive soil moisture causes a number of diseases caused by both fungi and bacteria. There is no point in making a diagnosis and trying to treat it by spraying or watering the plant with remedies for the disease - it is useless.

If a plant dies from flooding, you can try to save it:

Remove the earthen lump from the pot. If it just smells like damp earth, then you just need to remove excess moisture by placing it on several layers of toilet paper or cotton fabric, and change it as it gets wet. Return the plant to the pot after a day.
If the earthen ball smells of rot and decomposition, you need to remove some of the soil and decomposed roots. Living roots are white or light brown, while dead roots are black. Carefully, use a fork or a pointed wooden stick to separate the roots. More often, rotted pieces of roots fall off along with the soil.
Rinse the remains of the earthen lump in a solution of the “Maxim” preparation, in potassium permanganate, etc., let the excess moisture drain off or dry, as mentioned above.
Roll carefully in a 1:1 mixture of dry river sand and vermiculite.
Due to the loss of part of the roots, the plant will not be able to maintain flowering, so it is necessary to remove all flower stalks and lower large leaves, sprinkling crushed coal on the broken parts.
In a pot, the diameter of which is slightly larger than the diameter of the remains of the earthen clod, pour drainage and a layer of soil of about 1 cm, lower the diseased plant into the pot and sprinkle on top. In the soil that is used for healthy violets, you need to add more vermiculite and clean river sand 2:1:1, then it can be used for replanting diseased plants.
Insert several pieces of charcoal (or activated carbon tablets) around the perimeter of the pot.
Keep the plant in a warm place, do not water it until the top layer begins to dry out, then water it very carefully with warm, boiled water.
After planting, you can spray with Epin or Zircon, diluted according to the instructions. After treatment, keep the plant in a warm, dry and dark place for 6-8 hours. Then you can move it to the light.
If the violet survives and new young leaves begin to grow, then it can be removed from the pot again, shake off the soil containing a large amount of sand and plant it in a more nutritious substrate.

How to avoid flooding of flowers

What can you do to avoid watering your plants, even if someone else is watering them in your absence:

1. The size of the pot must match the variety and size of the rosette. The diameter of the rosette should be 2.5-3 times larger than the diameter of the pot (see photo). Pots with a diameter of more than 9-10 cm are not suitable for violets, except for trailer varieties,

2. In pots from different materials, but a different probability of soil acidification. Ceramic pots are more likely to dry out. Collectors don't use them. Pots made of thick plastic do not deform when you take it in your hands, the soil does not peel off from the walls, on the contrary, it sticks to the walls. In such a pot there is the greatest danger of flooding the plant.

A container made of thin and flexible plastic deforms when slightly compressed, and a air gap, the soil dries out faster, the roots breathe better. In such a pot there is a greater chance of drying out. When watering, water often simply flows down the sides of the pot without wetting the soil. This is indicated by two factors: simultaneously with watering, water appears in the pan, and the pot remains light in weight as before watering.

3. Soil containing a sufficient amount of vermiculite almost never sours. All purchased soils contain insufficient or no content at all. Purchased soil of a very dark, almost black color is made on the basis of lowland peat, which turns sour very quickly; it is better not to use such soils at all.

You need to buy soil containing reddish-brown, coarse-fibered high-moor peat. Thus, in suitable purchased soil or garden soil you need to add vermiculite or perlite, per 5 liters of soil 0.5-0.7 liters of vermiculite. It absorbs moisture well and then gradually releases it. It is advisable to add a full handful of chopped (up to 0.5 cm) sphagnum moss and 0.5 cups of small pieces of charcoal as an antibacterial component.

4. You need to make drainage at the bottom of the pot, preferably from medium expanded clay.

5. The pan should be wide and not deep, then the excess water will spread in a wide but not deep layer, not exceeding the drainage layer. Excess water is drained 15-30 minutes after watering, but in such a pan, even if the water is not removed, it quickly evaporates without harming the plant, and the air humidity around it increases.

6. Soil acidification is often associated with hypothermia of the earthen clod. In the cold, dark time years even in warm room on the windowsill the temperature can be 10°C lower than in the room.

Excessive watering in such conditions is very dangerous. The air contained in the pores of the soil is a heat insulator, and by displacing the air, the water quickly cools on the windowsill, and the roots become supercooled.

Diseases in such conditions have a lightning-fast course. You can insulate from a cold window sill using polystyrene foam and other similar materials. And you can only water in cold weather warm water(it should be warm to the touch).

7. Watering should be carried out strictly in doses. To do this, it is convenient to use plastic bottles with a juice straw tightly inserted into the lids. The water flows out in a thin stream, so you won’t accidentally splash too much.

Water must be poured until it appears in a small amount in the pan. Before watering, it would be a good idea to check the weight of each pot: heavy - like those that have just been watered, and if the top layer remains wet from the previous watering. This plant needs to be taken under control. If the soil has not dried out even after 24 hours, it means there has been an overflow.

Let's save the flooded violet!

Overdrying the plant threatens to overwater, no matter how paradoxical it may sound. With severe drying out, small young roots die off (they simply dry out). When watered abundantly, the plant cannot absorb all the moisture due to loss of roots, and the soil turns sour and begins to rot.

When drying out, water the plant gradually, little by little, but more often. If, due to drying out, all the leaves, both old and young, have withered, it means that all the roots have also died, and it is no longer possible to save the plant.

What the violet doesn't like

Watering too much
Severe dryness
Uneven watering
Cold, prolonged exposure to ground temperatures below 16°C
Heat, prolonged exposure to temperatures above 27°C
Direct sunlight
Drafts
Too high concentration of nitrogen in the soil, watering with manure infusion, excessive application of fertilizers
Alkaline soil with high salt content
Too high humidity and too low humidity
Insect attack: thrips, scale insects. Ticks can only kill children
Heavy ground

If all of the above does not threaten violets, then they are very resistant to disease.

Is it possible to destroy pathogens by heat treatment of the soil or chemicals? No. Only pests can be destroyed by heating: earthworms, some insect pests.

It is known that after some experimentation, nematode larvae remained alive in the soil after two hours of soil cultivation at temperatures above 100°C.

Fungal spores and bacteria survive even in space. That's why heat treatment only partially disinfects the substrate. But the structure of the soil is destroyed during prolonged heating. It does not need to be processed for long, and at no more than 75°C. Most convenient way- in the microwave - as soon as the earth becomes hot to the touch, stop heating.

Death of the growing point of a violet. Reasons and what to do

Sometimes you can observe the following picture: in the center of the rosette of a violet, the place from which new young leaves appear suddenly darkens, dries out, or turns black, the young leaves do not develop or are severely deformed. The growth point dies. There may be several reasons for this.

Incorrect application of mineral fertilizers.

A lack of boron leads to the accumulation of phenolic compounds in plant tissues, which poison it. The youngest leaves suffer the most; they remain small, their edges curl down, then the leaves turn brown and die. The growing point dies, the cutting and leaf blade become fragile. Flowers fade, and young flower stalks with buds also die.

A lack of boron can cause excessive application of potassium during feeding; in this case, there is also a disruption in the normal absorption of calcium, magnesium, and zinc. Lack of calcium also leads to inhibition and death of the growth point. If a fertilizer with too high a concentration of potassium was applied during watering, and at the same time it hit the growth point, then there is no option - it will die.

If the plant is transplanted into a substrate with excess potassium content, then symptoms of a high salt content will appear: the rosette becomes dark green, the leaves become smaller, and growth slows down. If you pay attention to this in time, you can prevent the growth point from dying off by pouring a warm, weak (slightly pinkish) solution of potassium permanganate (at least 0.3 liters per plant) over the earthen ball, allowing it to drain from the pot, then placing it on dry tray.

Attack and rapid reproduction of ticks.

Young leaves in the center of the rosette become deformed, curl, become hard and brittle. With severe damage, the center of the rosette, the growing point of the violet, may die. But this is not the only sign; if a violet is infested with mites, then you can see bite marks and tiny light dots on the leaves. The ticks themselves may not be visible due to their small size. In addition, severe mite infestation usually occurs in a hot and dry room.

Damage to the central part of the rosette by fungal diseases.

In this case, the young leaves do not become hard and brittle, but, on the contrary, become lethargic, pale or brown. However, fertilizer poisoning and mite infestation can cause the disease. So gray rot - mushrooms of the genus Botrytis (has many varieties), in order to infect a plant, must settle at least on small area dead tissue, feeding on which, it attacks neighboring healthy cells with toxic secretions, then the next ones, so the affected area gets bigger and bigger. The gray putrid spot grows and becomes covered with a gray fluffy coating - this is the mycelium of the fungus. They can live in the soil on plant debris for a long time until they are brought in from the street with soil, vegetables and fruits brought from the garden, with cut flowers, and there they fall on the violets along with dust. This also applies to other types of infectious diseases caused by fungi.

Incorrect violet transplantation.

If you plant a violet incorrectly, too deep into the ground, then when watering, water will fall on the growing point, it will rot and die, then the whole plant may die. There are some tricks to help avoid the death of transplanted plants. When planting children in an earthen substrate, make a hole and fill it with damp, repeatedly washed (the last 2-3 times with boiling water) river sand. Then make a hole in the sand, lower the roots of the separated baby into it and sprinkle them with the same almost sterile sand. The roots will then grow through the sand and take food in the earthen soil, but with such planting, even if deepening occurs, the water will simply flow down through the sand, and the children will never die. This method is especially good when the pot is too big. If you need to replant an adult violet or add soil to a pot, and the stem is already bare, you have to remove the rotten leaves from the bottom row. It is necessary to separate all the “stumps” from the leaves with a fingernail, sprinkle the stem with crushed charcoal, make a small bandage of sphagnum moss soaked in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or the “Maxim” preparation, only then add soil.

Contributes to the development of the disease: water entering the center of the socket, low temperature(below 18 degrees) indoors, drafts, the center of the outlet is closed from inflow fresh air with dense raised leaves of the middle rows or abundant bouquet flowering.

How to treat.

For treatment it is necessary: remove all affected parts of the plant, spray the violet with a solution of any fungicide (Fundazol, Skor, Vectra, Pure Flower, etc.).

For prevention: spray all plants located in the same room with the patient, promptly remove leaves with signs of rotting, control the number of mites, prevent the spread of other pests, do not store vegetables and fruits in the room with the violet collection, introduce a quarantine regime for all new specimens. Practice has shown that steaming the earthen mixture before planting does not give results in the fight against fungal infections; it is better to add the biological product “Trichodermin” to it or pour it with a solution of drugs such as “Zaslon”, “Barrier”. Before budding, spray violets with Zircon or Epin to increase disease resistance. Use all medications according to instructions.

What to do if the growing point of a violet has died.

If the growing point of a plant removed from a leaf has died, the prognosis is not good; the plant will most likely die.

If the growing point of an adult violet has died, then after all the amputations and drug treatments, you should try to root a healthy leaf, better than second from the bottom of the row, cutting off 2/3 of its petioles.

How to save a violet

Several growth points may appear on the section remaining after removal of the apex. Wait until they grow to 4 leaves, remove all but one, then it will grow. If you have experience, you can grow the stepsons a little, break them off by prying them with your own fingernail, and then root them in sterile river sand, as is done when breeding chimera violets.

It may turn out that the disease has spread through the vascular system deep along the stem and no fungicide can help, the leaves in the center will continue to die, turning black at the very beginning of the petiole, it is better to discard such a plant, boil the pot for 20 minutes. If the variety is very valuable, you can still try to root the leaf.

We hope that our advice will help you.

My violet suddenly lost its leaves...

Who among us has not encountered a similar phenomenon in our collection? It is of an off-season nature, but more often occurs either in cold winter or very hot summer. And it is the result of the fact that the root system has ceased to function.

And the main reasons causing such a deplorable state of plants are re-:

overdrying;
waterlogging;
hypothermia;
overheat.

And if novice gardeners suffer from violets from the inability to water the plants correctly, as well as select the right pot size and suitable substrate, then experienced ones suffer from the inability to water correctly. va There is no such thing as each specimen due to their huge number and inconvenient conditions for care (when plants are placed under the ceiling, and they are watered while standing on tiptoe on the top step of a rickety stepladder, or even simply blindly).

How to save violets damaged by improper care?

Resuscitation for dryness

If, after several days of keeping the leaves at high humidity, the turgor of the leaves is not restored, and the violet, when the bag is removed, drops the leaves again, it means that the root system has completely died due to severe drying. Then the plant will have to be cut out. That is, remove the underground part of the stem, along with the lobe of old, dead roots, and re-root the plant. In order for roots to form faster and better, we remove the three lower leaves (if the plant is mature and very leafy, much more is possible). Pour water into a glass jar (for example, a mayonnaise jar), place the plant with its leaves on the edges of the jar and place it in a transparent plastic bag, into which we inject a little warm water to create higher air humidity. After 2-4 weeks, a powerful layer of young roots forms in the water. We plant the violet in a pot in loose, airy soil, water it lightly and place it in a bag again for two weeks. This way the plant will take root faster and more reliably. Then we make several holes in the bag, or untie it, but do not remove it completely, in order to gradually accustom the leaves to air with lower humidity. After 1-2 weeks, the package can be completely removed. The plant is restored, and at the same time rejuvenated.

Resuscitation for waterlogging

Then we determine how damaged the root system is, and whether the plant can be restored to its previous quality or needs to be re-cutted.

If the petioles of the lower leaves have rotted where they are attached to the stem, then we remove the old root system without delay - there are definitely no living roots, and there is nothing to save. When the roots fall off with a slight twitch, it means they are dead and must be removed as soon as possible. If none of this is observed, you can risk restoring the plant without removing all the roots. First we need to make sure that the root rotting process has not affected the plant itself. We make a cross section of the underground part of the stem, retreating 0.5–1 cm from its end. We carefully examine the cut. If it is clean, green, without signs of rot, dust it with charcoal powder, shake off the old soil from the roots and plant the violet in a fresh, slightly moistened, very airy, high content of perlite, in a small pot.

If the root system is damaged but not rotten, you can try to restore it by wrapping the entire plant in a cylinder of newspaper for 1-2 weeks.

Tamara Kopeikina roots immediately in the substrate, simply adding her basic earthen mixture and more cultivators (perlite and vermiculite), takes a small pot, and keeps the plant in the greenhouse for quite a long time. Violetta Katkova uses either pure vermiculite or a mixture of vermiculite and sphagnum as a loose rooting substrate. Roots form easily, grow quickly, vermiculite is easily shaken off the roots without damaging them before planting the plant in a nutrient substrate. Tanya Kuzina and Olya Aksenkina are rooting plants using the unique capabilities of wick watering. insert a wick into a small pot and plant a plant without roots in it, place it on a container of water. The rosette of leaves is covered with a transparent bag on top and secured. If after 2-3 weeks the violet does not move when pressed, it means that the roots have grown into the ground. After this, the bag at the bottom can be untied, and after a few days it can be removed completely.

Many amateur gardeners suffer from plants grown in pots that are too large. This problem especially often arises during transplants, when a young plant from a plastic cup or small pot is transplanted immediately into a large pot with a diameter of 12-15 cm. A small root system cannot master such a huge volume of soil. After watering, the substrate does not dry out for a long time; therefore, the roots do not breathe for too long and die. Remember! Violets cannot be grown in very large pots, as they have a small, not very powerful root system. And to fully provide the plant with nutrients, it is better to take the path of more frequent transplants and replace the old substrate with a new one. And never plant a plant in a pot “to grow.” Its volume should always correspond to the size of the root system. And the next container size can be used only after the roots have completely mastered the volume of the old pot. Only fairly experienced gardeners can afford to “jump” one or two sizes, but with very loose soil and very careful watering for a month after transplanting.

Why does the violet die?

And dead roots are an open gate for infection and a breeding ground for pathogenic fungi. This is especially destructive for plants in the summer, when drying out occurs very quickly, and this is accompanied by severe overheating of the small pot. And fungal diseases develop rapidly in hot weather. The solution, as in the previous case, is the optimal size of the pot for this specimen. For young rosettes these are plastic cups or pots with a diameter of 6-8 cm. For adult plants - a diameter of 9-10 cm. For very large violets with a huge root system, a diameter of 11-12 cm is acceptable, but this is perhaps the limit.

Growing violets in a clay substrate that is too heavy also leads to problems with the root system. The roots of Saintpaulias are thin and delicate; they cannot develop in such an environment. The situation is also aggravated by poor aeration of such soil, but according to research by American experts, the ideal soil for violets should consist of one third soil, one third water and one third air. When making your own substrate, take soil only with a crumbly, granular structure, well processed by earthworms.

So, the main reasons for plants wilting:

overdrying;
overheat;
waterlogging;
hypothermia;
pot too big;
the ground is too heavy;
pot too small;
very old plant.

I hope that knowing this will help you avoid care mistakes and minimize the loss of plants in your collection.

Afterword

It helps a lot not to flood the plants and to control the amount of water measured when watering each specimen, a substrate that has different shades of color in dry, semi-dry and wet states. If you are in doubt whether a given plant needs to be watered, simply touch the surface of the soil with your finger. This is an excellent indicator of the degree of hydration that will never let you down. Watering is not carried out on wet and moist soil. If in a hurry you watered a violet that didn’t need it, it doesn’t matter: wash the plastic pot several times, loosen the soil, fill it with air – and the plant will cope. Or place a paper napkin under the pot. Those who like to water, add more perlite to the substrate - this will help the plant endure your passion. And try to find the courage to control the optimal size of the collection, so that the care of each plant is at least a little individual.

Your I.L. Danilina

Houseplants are living organisms that require proper care and worries. Violets are no exception. Their lives are overshadowed by pests that enter the house through windows, outerwear, and shoes. Diseases brought into the house from a flower shop or spontaneous market affect. Let's look at what to do and why leaves may be limp and curl inward.

The most common houseplants are viral diseases . The table presented will help determine what exactly affected the plant and select treatment.

By the shape of the lesion you can determine what exactly is bothering the flower.

Powdery mildew: how to save it at home

Problem

How it manifests itself

What to do

Powdery mildew

The leaves become whitish in appearance, as if they had been sprinkled with flour.

When trying to wash off - result is zero.

It first appears on the stems, then spreads to the leaves and rosettes.

Black dots appear.

Remove affected areas (cut off leaves, flowers, stems, shoots).

Treat all plants in the house gentle means:

dissolve 2.5 g of potassium permanganate in 10 liters of water;

50 g soda ash 40 g laundry soap, 10 liters of water;

15 g of chopped garlic, pour 1 liter of water, leave for 24 hours in a dark place;

spray sulfur powder directly onto the plant, wrap it with the pot in a plastic bag at 12 o'clock;

1 tsp baking soda, 2 – 3 drops liquid soap, 1 liter of water (first try this mixture carefully on a small area of each plant, since it is perceived differently by indoor “dwellers”);

In advanced cases, you should use fungicides(sold in flower shops). They are diluted with water and sprayed according to the instructions.

Create an accurate watering schedule.

Ventilate your home daily.

Reduce nitrogen fertilizer.

Increase phosphorus and potassium in the soil (fertilizers are available in specialized stores).

Powdery mildew attacked the violet

Fusarium: what care is needed

No less dangerous for violets. Manifestations of the disease include the following:

The petioles turn brown and quickly fall off.
Dark roots, easily lifted off the ground.
The ground is wet and heavy.

To treat, you need to remove the plant from the pot and inspect the roots. If healthy ones are partially visible, separate them with the flower. Tear off anything unhealthy and leave the sockets intact.

Transplant into dry, fresh soil. It is better to throw away a severely affected violet completely (for the safety of other flowers).

The last step is to pour diluted “Fundazol” (1 g dissolved in 1 liter of water) over the entire flora in the house.

Fusarium infection of the plant

Late blight and gray rot: when to disinfect the pot

Late blight

Soil too wet.

Drooping leaves.

Brown color small drying out spots.

Cut the healthy top of the rosette at an angle, treat it with an anti-fungal preparation (buy at a garden center), and leave it in a separate bowl with water for rooting.

All the rest - throw away.

Neighboring flowers and pots must be treated in the same way as a rosette.

Gray rot

The tissues are soft and watery to the touch.

Viden gray plaque.

The violet seems to fluff up.

Different parts die off quickly.

Throw away anything that looks or touches bad.

Replant into dry soil (first freeze the soil at minus 18 in the freezer, thaw, and dry).

Reduce watering.

Monitor the air temperature ( optimal for violets– 16 – 23 degrees).

Rust

The next disease on the list is rust. When it is infected, the violet leaves become covered yellowish spots, from below - with rusty pads (when pressed, spores fly away). Subsequently they fall off with the stem.

Late blight Gray mold Rust

Vascular bacteriosis

Manifestations of the disease: in different places almost transparent spots are visible, sometimes the plant will lick it off.

Appears at elevated air temperatures, so it must be reduced to a maximum of 25.

Throw away old plants(to continue the genus of a favorite species, a couple of young healthy leaves are enough to root).
Ensure good air ventilation in summer.
Treat with special medications designed for this disease.

Bronzing viruses: how to treat at home

With such viruses, the leaf blades of violets change color, the leaves take on an ugly shape, the plant does not bloom and is lethargic.

Treatment at home is simple: it is necessary remove weak areas flower and begin pest control (they are carriers of the virus).

When replanting, make sure there is a drainage hole at the bottom of the pot. excess moisture. The bottom layer should always be expanded clay; water will not accumulate there.

Vascular bacteriosis Mosaic virus Necrotic spot virus

The main pests of violets

Aphids, mites and scale insects

Name	How to find out	What to do
Aphid	Green midge located in the buds, drinks all the juice from them. With numerous colonies, sticky discharge is observed everywhere.	At the initial stage - assemble by hand; Can be washed off with soapy water. For large quantities– apply the drug “Actellik” (add 1 ml to 1 liter of water, process twice).
Ticks	Old lower leaves become brown, as if depressed. They multiply quickly and move to the growth point, destroying it. Violet stops blooming. The appearance resembles a plant pricked with a needle.	Sprinkle with plenty of water. There are 2 options here: - throw away - treat with chemicals of hazard class 2 ( harmful to humans, therefore, when spraying, wear a protective mask and gloves, work only in fresh air).
Scale insects and false scale insects	Small sticky ones stand out. Soak a cotton swab in soapy water and thoroughly clean all areas, changing the tool periodically (can be simplified: dip the plant upside down in a basin of warm soapy water, hold, rinse, change the pot and soil).

Aphids Mite-affected leaf Springtails

Thrips: how to deal with plaque

These are small dark insects with an oblong body that enter the house with particles of poplar fluff. They live and reproduce in anthers.

Thrips move quickly, fly over, changing their location. They lay eggs in delicate rosettes and anthers. They quickly hatch into larvae that devour young shoots.

Manifestation of infection: the flower looks eaten away, pollen is visible on the peduncles.

You need to get rid of thrips as quickly as possible.

To do this:

Immediately cut off all flowers with buds.
Treat with chemicals with a low hazard class (number 3 on the package).
Safer for people apply a decoction of ash(300 g of dry product per 10 liters of water, boil for 10 minutes to make it stick better, add a little laundry soap).
To enhance the effect, apply a small amount of dry ash directly to the soil.

Springtails: treatment

These insects crawl along the ground, processing it. They reach the plant with the soil and do not harm the plant itself.

However, if there are a lot of them and you can see that the roots are eating up the violet transplant, having previously drained the earthen lump.

Nematodes: why the plant withers

Nematodes are worms that live in the soil and eat roots, releasing toxins. The affected plant is weak, may wither, is poorly developed, and has no flowers.

You can see the pest by examining the roots (they will be thickened, like unevenly round beads strung together).

There is only one solution - discard the affected plant, disinfect the pot. It is not possible to save.

Woodlice, mosquitoes and midges, whitefly

Woodlice

Oblong crustaceans, they settle only when there is moisture and uncleaned dead remains.

We'll have to clean and dry the house. To do this, wipe the window sills, shelves with flowers, floor chlorinated water(in a small concentration).

Inspect wet rooms - kitchen, bathroom, pantries (this is their habitat when it is wet and there is something to eat).

Ventilate the room dry the air. Woodlice do not live in a dry, warm, clean house.

Mosquitoes, midges

If you see flying pests, inspect the violets carefully.

Adults are harmless, but their black-headed larvae are dangerous.

Walk along the edge of the pot with a pencil to prevent cockroaches.

Hang Velcro to catch flying insects.

Change the earth.

When leaving, do not over-moisten.

Whitefly

Infects with mushrooms, leaving a whitish discharge. Then these places darken and dry out.

Catch adults with sticky tape.

Fight the larvae with a 1% soap solution (wash the leaves from below several times a day).

Spray garlic infusion(pour 1 cup of peeled tines completely vegetable oil, leave for a day, take 2 tsp of liquid per 0.5 ml of warm water).

Always monitor the temperature of the water you use when caring or processing. It should be warm, the same as body temperature.

Thickening on the roots - a manifestation of a nematode Invasion of woodlice Midges Whitefly

We have repeatedly looked at ways to help plants with illnesses and insect damage. For example, .

Symptoms: white coating, leaf flaccid, may curl inward

When there is a great desire to have healthy Saintpaulias in the house, you should study the technology of cultivation and care, so as not to harm by your actions.

Many people are interested in the question: why can leaves curl? In addition to insects, viruses and fungi, other symptoms are present.

Spots on leaves. They say there is a lot of moisture. Drain the soil. When watering, do not pour on sockets. Keep away from direct sunlight.
White plaque. Indicates drafts. When you ventilate the room, check how much the air temperature changes. Sharp fluctuations are bad.
Wilting violets. Cut off the shoot - the brown ring will tell you about the fungus, try to look for healthy shoots, root them. If there is no darkening, she is very sick. To avoid infecting others, throw it away.
Leaves curl downward and inward. Diagnosis: overflow. Try to revive: rid the roots of the wet lump, rinse in warm water, place in a small pot.

Do not lead to a painful state, do prevention:

Bring certified products into your home.
Inspect when purchasing. If you doubt the health of the purchased product, do not buy it.
Bought – quarantine(will take three weeks). Let him get used to it, and when you examine him, make sure he is healthy.

Caring for bright violets is not difficult. The species created by breeders are resistant to damage. No wonder they occupy a leading position among indoor species. By following the rules, be sure to make friends with them.