To ensure that the hammer does not fly off the handle during operation, but sits on it securely and firmly, it is enough to just place it correctly on the handle once.
Lever
First, about the dimensions: the hammer handle should be oval in cross-section, from 250 to 350 mm long, smoothly tapering to the end on which the hammer head is mounted.
The best wood for making handles is birch, beech, oak, ash, maple, hornbeam or rowan. It is completely unacceptable to make hammer handles from species with easily splintered wood: pine, spruce, aspen or alder.
Hammers with metal and plastic handles are now available for sale. They completely avoid the problem of fitting the head onto the handle, but for some reason I prefer hammers with wooden handles. They are warmer to the touch, feel more secure and comfortable in the hand.
Most often, hammer handles are made from birch wood. If you plan the handle yourself from a thick birch branch, it must be dried in a warm, shady and well-ventilated place.
Do not try to dry wood using artificial heat sources: electric fireplaces, air heaters, radiators. With such drying, the wood inevitably cracks and loses its strength.
If the wooden handle for a hammer is not sufficiently dried, over time it will dry out and decrease in volume, and the head will dangle on it, constantly threatening to fly off the handle of the tool.
Fitting the hammer head onto the handle
Insert the thin end of the handle into the hole in the hammer head. The ideal would be to fit the head on the handle with a certain force or, as the masters say, “with interference.”
If the handle is too thick, sand its thin end first with a rasp and then with sandpaper. As a result, the end of the handle should be a gentle cone. Having attached the hammer head to the handle, make sure that it is strictly perpendicular to the center line of the handle.
Holding the handle vertically, with the head of the hammer up, strike it with the back wide end against a hard surface from top to bottom. With each blow, the head of the tool will slowly but surely fit onto the expanding handle, becoming stronger and stronger on it.
The immobility of the head during subsequent impacts will indicate that it has “sat” firmly enough on the handle.
Wedging the hammer handle
Prepare a place for a wooden wedge. To prevent the wedge from moving to the side and damaging the handle, use a narrow chisel to make a notch about 5 mm deep at an angle of 30 0 to the longitudinal axis of the hammer.
A wooden wedge is a blade about 3 mm thick, about 15 mm wide and 30 to 50 mm long. The wedge should gradually taper towards the front, but its end should be blunt.
After the wooden wedge has been hammered into the handle approximately 15-20 mm, use a fine-tooth hacksaw to saw off the sticking out of the hammer head. top part handles so that it protrudes...
When buildings break down and require restoration, you may need a repair hammer, which is much more effective tool than bare hands =).
But how can you make a repair hammer in The Forest?
To do this you will need the following set of resources:
- 1 stone
- 2 sticks
- 2 rags
- 10 pieces of resin
After crafting, you will be able to use the hammer both for its intended purpose and for clearing bushes, as well as for collecting sticks from small trees. Unfortunately, the hammer does not cause damage to other players, so as a weapon it is absolutely useless in multiplayer and online play.
A short but informative video guide on crafting a hammer in Forest:
Use this tool wisely and you will always be on top.
Sledgehammer handles are designed, as the name suggests, for sledgehammers. You can buy a handle for a sledgehammer at a price of 19 rubles 60 kopecks. Both small and large sledgehammer handles are available. These handles are universal and will fit any sledgehammer.
Hammer handles are intended for completing hammers without handles, or for replacing damaged handles. At any construction site included hand tools Spare hammer handles are a must. Since replacing the handle is much cheaper than buying a new hammer. You can buy a hammer handle for a price starting from RUB 11.30. Large and small hammer handles are always available. They can be purchased both retail and wholesale - for terms of purchase, please contact the company’s managers.
Buy axes
Ax handles are needed for completing and replacing ax handles for axes. You can buy an ax handle from 39 rubles. Prices for ax handles are large from 42.7 rubles.
How to choose a hammer - tips and instructions for selecting a quality tool + 51 photos
Buying spare ax handles is much cheaper than buying a new axe.
Shovel cuttings
Good shovel active use lasts for several years, which cannot be said about shovel handles, especially when used by unskilled labor. At any construction site and on a farm where shovels are actively used, it is imperative to have a supply of cuttings for shovels. You can buy a shovel handle for 21.2 rubles. Low prices Shovel cuttings help save company resources.
Study of the design of a mechanic's hammer. Study of the dependence of the hammer impact force on the level of gravity of the working part and the movement of the tool. Making an impact component from fiberglass or wood. Features of cleaning and testing the finished product.
Students, graduate students, young scientists who use the knowledge base in their studies and work will be very grateful to you.
Posted on http:// www. allbest. ru/
Branch of the federal state budgetary educational institution higher education« Siberian state university ways and communications" in Novoaltaisk
on the topic: “DIY WORKSHOP HAMMER”
In the discipline “Mastering primary professional skills”
Completed:
Nikolenko V.R.
Teacher:
Volovitsky S.M.
Novoaltaysk 2017
It is the last of these, the plumber’s hammer with a round striker, that is the most common and versatile. Its purpose is to prolong, direct and increase the effort of the human hand, delivering an energetic blow to the desired point, and assisting another tool - a chisel, chisel, punch.
It is convenient for them to make blows for a variety of work: bending, chopping, riveting, straightening, punching holes, hammering and flattening. A plumber's hammer is used to hammer nails, break concrete or ceramic tiles, and shape metal tubes.
Construction of a plumber's hammer
A plumber's hammer differs from a regular hammer in that it has two different strikers in its design - a flat one, which is intended for driving nails, and a tapered end, which is convenient for breaking various objects and surfaces. The tool has a slightly convex, not knocked down or oblique surface of the striker, without hardening, bevels, burrs, potholes and cracks.
The price of locksmith hammers with a square striker is cheaper, so this variety was developed in locksmith practice widespread for light work. And hammers with a round striker have one advantage, which is that the striking part significantly outweighs the rear, which ensures greater accuracy and impact force. metalworking hammer fiberglass stripping
The force of impact with a plumber's hammer depends on the level of gravity of the working part and the movement of the tool. This speed is regulated by a person, and the severity of the working element is regulated by the manufacturer. The impact part of the tool is made of heat-treated steel to ensure high strength and hardness. Therefore, the material used to create hammers is varied.
The striking part of the hammer is usually mounted on an ergonomic handle made of fiberglass or wood. The handles are predominantly made of hardwood (hornbeam, beech, dogwood or birch) and are at least 250 millimeters long for hammers. Bench hammers weigh 0.4 - 0.8 kilograms.
Bench hammers (Table.
1) are produced with round (Fig. 1a) and square strikers.
Hammer production flow chart:
1. File surfaces I, II, III, IV with brute and personal files.
2 Cover with copper sulfate solution.
3 Completely mark the workpiece, see below and Figure 2.
How to make a hammer in The Forest?
Make a complete marking of the workpiece: using a scriber and a ruler, mark the center line on the edge.
6 Drill holes with a diameter of 6 mm to a diameter of 12 or 15 mm.
7 File the final side of the VI striker with a personal file along the radius R.
8 Put a stamp
9 Temper the hammer, heat it in the oven to a light cherry-red color, take it in the middle with pliers and with quick movements, alternately cool the head and toe in water to a length of 30 mm.
10 Clean the hammer with abrasive sandpaper; Polish the surfaces of the striker and toe.
11 Hammer test, tested with three blows on unhardened steel.
Posted on Allbest.ru
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Hammer drawing
Drawing of a hammer that is used in household to perform all kinds of work.
The hammer consists of three components:
01. Wooden handle. The material for making the handle is 1st grade wood (GOST 2695-83) without knots, cracks, rot, sprouts and wormholes (its moisture content is more than twelve percent) or premium birch.
02. Metal baize. The baek is made by casting and forging.
Making a hammer with your own hands
Manufacturing material – steel 45; 45L; 40X; 50; U7; 60; U8; 50L. Done inside the bike through hole with conical surfaces from the center, which allows you to securely fasten the baize to a wooden handle using a wedge.
03. Metal wedge. It is made of a metal plate in the form of a wedge.
The metal baize has two working surfaces.
One is flat, the other is narrowing, each of which is applied and used for its own purposes.
Absolutely not everyone modern man will be able to place the hammer on the handle. It would seem simple, but when performing such work, most home craftsmen encounter some problems. This is due to the fact that in order to maintain the tools in in good condition it is necessary to regularly encounter them and understand the principle of their structure.
Today on construction market There are hammers whose handles are made of metal or synthetic materials and, accordingly, there is no need to attach them. However, along with modern tools, the use of traditional hammers with a wooden handle is often practiced.
Why is it necessary to attach the handle?
The popularity of wooden handles is due not only to their cheapness. The tree is lightweight material, and for hammers this is extremely important parameter. The handle should be light in weight, and his head should be weighty. This is necessary to increase the impact force. Using homemade wooden holders, a person has the opportunity to adjust the tool depending on his anthropometric characteristics, taking into account the thickness of the handle, its length and other dimensions.
For normal operation tools must be kept in perfect order. This is especially necessary if you have to use tools quite often. To drive several nails a couple of times a year, you can use a bad hammer with a dry handle. However, if the hammer is the most necessary tool to work, it must be maintained in excellent condition. If the instrument is not in proper condition, then you risk not only injuring yourself, but also causing harm to others if its striking part comes off.
It is important to note that on loose tools this happens quite often, not only due to wear of the material, but also due to improper landing impact part on the holder. In addition, the wood used as a handle is of particular importance.
What wood material is used for the hammer handle?
First of all, it is necessary to exclude the type of wood that easily splits and cracks. These include spruce, pine, aspen, alder, etc. At the same time, it is recommended to use hornbeam, maple, rowan, dogwood, ash, oak, beech or birch as a handle for metalworking steel hammers.
Before turning wood the material must be pre-dried, since the hammer must be placed exclusively on dry wood.
This is due to the fact that during the drying process, any material decreases in size, water evaporates and its volume decreases. If you use an insufficiently dried handle when seating the hammer, then over time it will dry out, constantly wobble and fall off.
Video “How to make a hammer that doesn’t fall off”
Choosing a Hammer Handle Shape
According to GOST, 3 forms are used to make a hammer holder. However, the master can create other ergonomically convenient shapes of handles at his discretion. This is often practiced when self-production handles, but correctly, one of the GOST variants is taken as a basis.
When making holders, it is important to take into account the fact that the size of the workpiece must be longer than what is needed in the end. The maximum margin is about 5 cm. Mainly, the handle should taper towards the end that faces the striking part of the instrument.
The process of attaching a handle to a hammer
Often the hammer head opening size at the top and bottom entry is slightly wider than in the middle. Thus, the dimensions of the blank for the handle in the thin end part must correspond to the dimensions of the holes in the middle of the striking part of the tool. It is imperative to check that the hole for the handle of the striker is well made with the tool. You can see how this was done in the photo.
It shows the head of an old hammer, which requires preliminary processing. Without this work, it will be impossible to install the handle. Paying attention to the picture, we can see that the casting of the striker was done rather poorly, there are large deposits of metal and unevenness, each entrance to the holes on both sides differs by 6-8 mm from the center of the striker.
To correct all defects and irregularities, it is necessary to process the internal and outside hammer head using a file. Then you need to insert the thin end of the handle into the bottom hole of the hammer to adjust all the dimensions correctly. The tip of the handle should be positioned flush with the opposite side of the firing pin. If the handle is thicker than the corresponding holes, then it must be sanded in such a way that the element was inserted into the hole of the hammer with a certain interference.
Due to the fact that at the end of the handle we achieve a flat cone, then with more deep dive the head of the hammer will be pulled tighter. It is worth noting that during this process it is important to take into account that the firing pin on the handle is not distorted, but is installed at a right angle.
To hammer the handle into the hole of the striker, it is necessary to hit it with the back side in a vertical position on an anvil, workbench tabletop, etc.
Due to its weight, the striking part of the hammer will slowly press against the expanding cone of the handle under the influence of its weight. At the same time, it is strictly not recommended to hammer or hard objects into the back of the handle, as this will lead to its splitting. This method can only be used when mounting a non-metallic striking part (wooden or plastic), for example, for a mallet.
After the head of the hammer is firmly seated and movement of the handle in the striking part is no longer observed, it is necessary to saw off the protruding part using hacksaw blade, having first retreated half a centimeter above the impact heads. This is why it is necessary to use a longer workpiece.
Wedging the hammer handle
Often, purchased hammers have incorrectly driven wedges. Basically, a metal plate is hammered into the center of the longitudinal axes at the end of the handle. Because of this, over a short period of time, the handle becomes loose and loose in the firing pin hole. To avoid this, it is necessary to make a notch on the back of the handle, the depth of which will be about 0.5 cm. To do this, you can use a narrow chisel. The notch must be made so that it is located not along, but across the entire length of the end. If done incorrectly, the handle may split during the process of driving the wedge. It is important that the wedges fit tightly into the handle, slowly pushing the wood layer apart.
For wedges, it is recommended to remove the same type of wood from which the handle itself is made. The dimensions of the Wedge are about 2-3 mm in thickness and width and about 1.5 cm, it all depends on the size of the hammer. In this case, the wedge should not be very long, a maximum of about 4-5 cm, otherwise it will simply break during the process of driving it into the handle. The front part of the wedge must be sharpened at an obtuse angle. Before driving the wedge, it must be lubricated. The use of silicone sealant is recommended as a lubricant. Thanks to this substance, it will not only be easily immersed in the wood, but will also be securely fixed in the handle.
After the client has been hammered, the protruding end of the handle must be sawed off again in such a way that the protrusion of the hammer head was no more than 2-3 mm.
If you use dry wood for the handle, it will be enough to drive one wedge, but if the material is softer, then it is recommended to drive a second, but this time metal wedge. Its width and thickness should be the same as that of wood, but the length should not exceed 2 cm.
The wedges are driven completely flush with the back of the handle. After all the basic work has been completed, it is necessary to finally process the handle using large and small species sandpaper. After this, the handle of the instrument is impregnated with drying oil and varnished. There is no need to use paint for coating.
The method described above for attaching a handle to a hammer is quite reliable. There is nothing complicated here. Having made the attachment according to all the rules, you will forget about hammering nails into the handle and screwing in self-tapping screws, which is often practiced by many craftsmen to avoid dangling the handle during work.
Video “How to properly attach a hammer”
What do a sledgehammer, an ax and a hammer have in common? Operating principle. They need a swing to strike. That’s why a handle is needed, and the heavier the tool, the longer it is, as a rule.
During the swing metal part The tool has a centrifugal force that tends to tear it off the handle. Moreover, this force is greater, the more massive the head and the longer the handle of the axe, sledgehammer or hammer.
Traditionally, to strengthen the head on the handle, a wooden wedge is driven into its end after the metal part is seated. Sometimes one or two smaller metal ones are driven in at an angle to the main wedge.
But there are also alternative ways securely fastening the parts of the above-mentioned tools relative to each other. Below we will consider and practically implement one of them.
Place the hammer on the handle without a wedge using rubber
The handle can be purchased at a hardware store or made yourself from hard wood, which includes: oak, birch, maple, rowan, beech, ash, dogwood and others. Just when choosing, you should pay attention to the end of the workpiece and choose the one whose annual rings are located longitudinally and not transversely. Such a handle will be stronger and last longer.
It is believed that the slot in the handle for driving in the wedge weakens it. If used for reliable nozzle hammer head onto the rubber handle, then weakening does not occur, since there is no need for a wedge fastening, and therefore no need for a slot.
It is necessary to prepare the handle blank for the attachment. To do this, we adjust the side with a smaller cross-section to fit the hole in the head using a carpenter's knife, a wood file or an emery wheel. The seating part of the handle should fit freely into the head hole without tension and correspond in length to it.
Next, cut out a strip from a bicycle inner tube or any elastic rubber, which should provide a girth along the length seat handles with some clearance, and have a margin of about 1 cm in width on both sides.
Lubricate the outside surface of the rubber with lithol to facilitate the attachment process.
To do this, hit the opposite end of the handle on a stable surface. It is best if it is a massive wooden block.
After making sure that the hammer head is in place, we remove the squeezed out excess lithol with a rag and cut off the ends of the rubber on both sides of the hammer head with a sharp knife, so to speak, flush.
Then the mating places mounting hole We carefully cover the hammer and handle with glue (PVA, “Moment” or something similar). We do this, on the one hand, in order to strengthen the connection, but, mainly, to ensure that moisture does not penetrate into the connection between the hammer head and the handle. After all, water, once in an unprotected gap, can over time cause wood rotting and metal oxidation, which will inevitably lead to weakening of the fastening and failure of the tool.
What else is the advantage of fitting the handle into the head of the hammer this way? The presence of a rubber layer between the parts of the tool, as it were, isolates the handle from the head and the force of impact of the striker on another hard surface is damped and the hand does not experience all the energy of a hard and sharp contact.
All of the above can be repeated one to one, both with an ax and a sledgehammer. The glue, of course, may come off in places over time, so you will have to restore it. The handle can be burned using blowtorch or gas burner and then wipe thoroughly with a rag. This will give the handle a noble appearance and ease of use.
In conclusion
Grease of mineral origin, which includes litol, has a bad effect on rubber over time and it begins to deteriorate. It is better to replace it with thick soap jelly. It also makes the attachment easier, but after the water evaporates, it loses its sliding properties and further strengthens the connection.To seal joints, instead of PVA and other adhesives that harden and become brittle, it is preferable to use silicone sealant, always remaining plastic and less prone to cracking.
Since attaching a hammer, ax or sledgehammer with rubber requires considerable effort, the opposite end of the handle should be strengthened while attaching, by wrapping it with a clamp and tightening it tightly. The clamp can be replaced with construction tape or vinyl insulating tape, tightly wrapping the handle in several layers.
Also, instead of rubber, you can use a tube made of galvanized sheet metal with a seam, which is put on the handle and inserted into the hole of the hammer. Next, as usual: a few blows and all the parts take their places, and very firmly and reliably.
Making an ax
The ax handle comes in different shapes. Made from tough wood: birch, ash, maple, elm, beech, hornbeam. It should be made not from a board, but from a block of wood or logs, which is important for its strength. Having thus drawn the shape of the ax handle on the blank, the excess wood is removed with an axe, knife, chisel, leaving a thickening at the end of the ax handle, which is necessary for safety in work, so that the ax does not slip out of your hands.
The manufactured ax handle is checked for mounting, i.e. put an ax on it, correct all inaccuracies, cut off the excess and clean the ax handle. After this, the ax is removed, a groove is cut into the ax handle for inserting a wedge, and the ax is mounted.
Making handles for hammers
Hammer handles are made from straight grain hardwood. The hammer is placed on the handle, the excess is cut off, a sharp steel wedge is inserted and wedged as tightly as possible. A poorly secured hammer is dangerous to work with.
In addition to wedges, this method is also used: a through hole with a diameter of 3-4 mm is drilled 30-50 mm below the hammer. From this hole, on both sides of the handle to its top, two grooves are cut along the diameter of the holes - so that the wire can then be very accurately laid in these grooves. The hammer is removed, a 3-4 mm wire is inserted into the hole, and bent so that it fits into the grooves. The hammer is inserted (the wire enters the hole of the hammer along with the handle), the excess wire is cut off, leaving the ends 5-10 mm long, and they are bent over the top of the hammer.
Making handles for chisels and chisels
Handles for chisels and chisels are made from hard, tough wood. The shape of the handles may vary. Handles for chisels are fastened with metal rings for strength. It is better to strike the handle not with a hammer, but with a mallet.
Handles are placed on chisels and chisels in different ways. For example, first drill a hole of such a diameter that the shank of a chisel or chisel fits into it with some effort. Sometimes a hole of two diameters is drilled: the first is larger, the second is smaller. The hole should not be the entire length of the shank, but 15-20 mm shorter.
Having drilled a hole, the workpiece is processed until the desired shape, insert the shank into the hole and push the tool onto the back of the handle. You can clamp the tool in a vice, put on the handle and hit it with a hammer or mallet.
Carpentry. Mastery lessons. Content
|
Business plan Bulletin Vikonannya plan Quiz |
Practical work. Making a drawing of a mallet. Goals
|
Construction mechanic research. Study of the relationship between hammer impact force at the level of working load and tool movement. Fabricating the impact component from fiberglass or wood. Removal characteristics and finished product testing.
Young scientists using the knowledge base in your research and work will be very grateful.
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Branch of the Federal State Budgetary Educational Institution of Higher Education "Siberian State University of Transport and Communications" in Ljubljana
Novoaltaysk
on the topic: “WORD CASE WITH HANDS”
About the discipline “Mastering basic professional skills”
completed:
Nikolenko V.R.
Volovitsky S.M.
Novoaltaysk 2017
The last thing is that the round attacker locksmith is the most common and versatile. Its purpose is to expand, direct and increase the efforts of the human hand, to strike energetically at the desired point, to assist another tool - a chisel, a chisel, a center punch.
It is appropriate to hit various tasks: bending, cutting, riveting, say holes, hammer and light. Bench hammers, concrete pumps or ceramic tiles, metal pipe molds.
Construction mechanic
The hammer bench differs from the usual in the design of two different attackers - even though it is designed to connect with nails and tapers towards an end that is suitable for interrupting various items and surfaces. The tool is slightly convex, not mirrored or slanted, and free of hardened work, bends, burrs, holes, and cracks.
The price of square hammer hammer is cheaper so this grade is used in metals for light work.
The round hammer has one advantage, that is, the striking part is significantly higher than the back side, which provides greater accuracy and impact force. fiberglass metal hammer
The impact force of the lock depends on the severity of the workpiece and the movement of the tool. This speed is controlled by the person, and the severity of the working element is controlled by the manufacturer.
The impact of the tool is made from heat-treated steel, which provides high strength and hardness. Therefore, the material used to create hammers varies.
Hammer impact is commonly used for ergonomic fiberglass or wood handles. For the handle, mostly hardwood (grape, beech, wood or birch) is used and hammers are at least 250 millimeters long.
Locksmiths have a weight of 0.4 to 0.8 kilograms.
Locksmiths (Table 1) are manufactured with round (Fig. 1a) and square impacts.
Hammer technology map:
I move surfaces I, II, III, IV with drunk and personal files.
2 Coating with copper sulfate solution.
3 Complete the layout of the workpiece, see below and Figure 2.
fourth
Make a complete mark on the workpiece: use a dash and a ruler to use a center line along the edges.
6 6mm drill holes for 12 or 15mm diameter.
7. The rear side of the attacking VI was visible with a personal file along the radius R.
8. Stigmatize
9 By lifting the heat hammer in the oven to the bright cherry red dirt, you can alternately move the pliers into the cold shock water and 30mm long short socks.
10 Remove the hammer using a sanding cloth; Surface of shooters and toes.
11 Test hammer, tested three times on alloy steel.
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Making a women's business style jacket
Choice of material and sketch on a jacket model based on cotton fabric. Product model development. Drawing up a working model template. Laying designs on fabric. Assess the level of profitability of the finished product.
exchange rate, added 05/14/2012
Manufacturing of fastening tools
Analysis of the structural and technical requirements of the fastening tool.
The choice of product material and features of its properties. The choice of purchase method and its technical and economic basis. The purpose of technological schemes for surface treatment.
thesis, added 08/08/2012
Plumbing Basics
Organization of locksmith work.
Parallel, without rotating sleeve. Desktop placement tools. Measurement and classification measuring instruments, their selection according to the product and tolerances. Designation of designations, depending on production.
work report added 12/30/2013
Determination of impact strength
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A selection of materials for creating a women's costume.
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DIY locksmith
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Description of the kinematic scheme.
exchange rate added 10/16/2013
Hammer drawing
Drawing of a hammer, which is used in the household to perform all kinds of work. 
The hammer consists of three components:
01.
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Wooden handle. The material for making the handle is 1st grade wood (GOST 2695-83) without knots, cracks, rot, sprouts and wormholes (its moisture content is more than twelve percent) or the highest grade birch. 
Metal baize. The baek is made by casting and forging. Manufacturing material – steel 45; 45L; 40X; 50; U7; 60; U8; 50L. There is a through hole made inside the bike with conical surfaces from the center, which allows you to securely attach the bike to a wooden handle using a wedge. 
03.
Metal wedge. It is made of a metal plate in the form of a wedge. 
The metal baize has two working surfaces. 
One is flat, the other is narrowing, each of which is applied and used for its own purposes.
Definition
Design
Marking
A hammer is a necessary thing in the household. It’s not bad to have several varieties of it in your toolbox. This sometimes greatly facilitates the performance of specific work. But for most household needs An ordinary, one might say standard, plumber's hammer is quite suitable.
Bench hammer, definition
The hammer is percussion instrument, which is intended for hammering or, conversely, breaking some objects (in the first case, these are usually nails, in the second, for example, contaminated tightly separated joints).
It is also used to produce some shock work(when manipulating with a chisel or a screwdriver with a thrust bearing). Its mass, dimensions and design features defines GOST 2310-77 “Steel hammers”. He also clarifies the concept of “metalwork” - created for the needs of the national economy and export.
Design
Steel hammer has a mass of 50 grams to 1 kilogram. The design of the tool: a head (for striking the surface being processed), a wedge that holds the first element, preventing it from going “flying” with the next blow, and a handle that serves to increase the swing, and at the same time making the entire object more convenient for the worker .
The working part of a plumber's hammer - the head - also has its own characteristics.
Its two ends: the toe and the striker, differ in shape, which allows them to be manipulated differently.
The firing pin can be round or square. The toe is usually thinner and may be triangular or cylindrical or rounded at the end.
In the photo: 1 - head, 1a - firing pin, 1b - toe, 2 - handle.
According to GOST, a mechanic's hammer must have a head made of steel grade 50 or U7.
Other brands that are not inferior in properties to those mentioned are also allowed. Required condition– the presence of a protective or protective-decorative coating. Being steel, the tool head is usually galvanized. The coating can be oxide, phosphate, followed by oiling or painting with enamel or varnish.
The material for the wedge is usually steel.
In this case, it will have notches (otherwise “ruffs”) for better connection with handle. Manufacturers, however, are allowed to use both hardwood and wood glue to later fit the head onto the handle.
Wedge material
According to GOST, a steel hammer can have one of three types of handles.
The most common of them is the pen oval shape, rectangular section. Others are its modifications, oval-shaped with a narrowing or double narrowing for greater ease of operation. GOST allows other ergonomic forms. The width of the handles, depending on the size of the mounted heads, ranges from 18 to 41 mm.
DIY carved hammer handle
Length – from 200 to 400 mm. Household hammers often have a handle length of 250 to 350 mm and a corresponding head weighing from 100 to 400 grams.
