A good life does not require installing an additional battery. The householder decides to do this after painfully weighing the pros and cons, since installing an additional battery is associated with certain costs and moral costs. In any case, an increase in the heat-transfer surface will lead to an increase in room temperature and, accordingly, to warming in the home. This result is achieved in two ways: either by increasing the number of sections in the radiator, or by hanging an additional battery in a new location

Adding a section to a heating radiator

Home radiators sectional type currently represented by products made of cast iron, aluminum or a bimetallic version. To extend the radiator, only sections that are similar in design and type of material to the existing sections of the radiator are used.

The procedure for all three types of batteries is the same and includes:

• preliminary disassembly of the radiator from the side of adding an additional element,
• subsequent assembly.

Radiator disassembly

First you need to make sure there is no water in the system. Only then remove the battery from the mounting hooks and place it on a level place to remove the blind plug or sleeve. Using a radiator wrench, the fittings are unscrewed, but not completely, forming a gap between the sections of the order of several millimeters. It is not advisable to release the fittings at a greater distance, since the threads may jam.

The process of disassembling a cast iron radiator is very labor-intensive, you need to be patient. Often the footers and sections “stick” so strongly that it is impossible to do without blowtorch or autogen. Only after warming up the joint is it possible to tear off the stuck fitting and turn it. Please note that sections, plugs and sections have different thread directions.

Assembling additional sections of the heating radiator

The radiator and the added section are placed on a flat surface, and it is easier to assemble it on the floor, literally on your knees, than on a seemingly comfortable table. Both nipples with intersection gaskets made of paronite or rubber mounted on a threadless smooth middle part are screwed into the threaded inlets of the larger radiator, cleaned of dirt and rust. The free end of the nipple is slightly pressed by the attached additional section.

There is no need to use joint sealant. But if at the ends of the crimping planes of the old radiator and new section If there are remnants of old or factory gaskets, they must be carefully removed without subsequent stripping. The threads should be tightened evenly without applying excessive force.

This is important! When tightening the thread, the nipple may rupture or the thread on the radiator section may break, so you should absolutely not rely on the maximum possible effort under the pretext that the tighter the tightening, the better.

On both nipples, alternately in two stages (preliminarily - “at half strength” and finally - a little less than the maximum possible force) tighten the threads with a wrench until the sections are completely closed into a single whole. When tightening, it is advisable to alternately make an average of one turn for each nipple; this will prevent dangerous overloads from occurring on the thread.

The same sequence of work is followed for aluminum and bimetallic radiators. Small differences are only in other sizes of nipples and keys, probably less effort during disassembly than for old cast-iron radiators, more convenient markings on the fittings for thread directions.

The assembled extended battery must be hung back on the prepared brackets and connected to the central heating pipes.

Installing an extra battery

A more convenient option for a householder when solving the problem of how to add a heating battery is to install an additional radiator in a pre-selected location. During installation, it is necessary to ensure the maximum possible heat transfer from the surface of the radiator. It is recommended to place the battery under the window so that the convective heat flow from the heated surface serves as a kind of air screen for the air emanating from the frozen window. The distance from the wall plane to the radiator is regulated in the range from 2 to 5 cm, the distance from the floor - from 10 to 12 cm.

On the radiator, you need to take advantage of this opportunity to install a special valve for timely removal air jams. And install additional taps on the coolant inlet and outlet pipes so that if there is an urgent need to remove the radiator, the water circulation through the riser will not be turned off.

Connection diagrams for installed heating batteries

Having installed a new radiator, you need to intelligently approach the question of how to connect an additional heating battery, since heat transfer losses fundamentally depend on the method of connecting the radiator to the central heating pipes.

There are three main connection types:

1. lower;
2. lateral;
3. diagonal.

The choice is made depending on the type of pipeline wiring in the field and the layout of the room. Let's consider the conditional diagrams of all three types of connection. The following designations are used in the diagrams:

1. Mayevsky crane;
2. battery;
3. direction of heat flow (red color - hot water, blue - cooled water);
4. stub.

Bottom connection of the heating battery

Leading (with hot water) and outlet (with cooled water) pipes of the heating system are connected to the lower pipes, spaced on opposite sides of the radiator. This connection is least effective compared to lateral or diagonal connection for apartment buildings, but wins in those special cases when the heating system is hidden in the floor.

Lateral connection of the heating battery

The pipes are connected through pipes on one side; it is most common in high-rise buildings with a standard centralized system heating. Very convenient for everyday use. With this installation method, the radiator heating battery produces rated power. But when the number of joined sections is more than 15, heat transfer deteriorates. In this case, it is advisable to change the wiring diagram.

Diagonal connection of the heating battery

The pipe supplying hot water is mounted to the upper pipe of the radiator, and the pipe discharging cooled water is connected to the lower pipe, located on the opposite side. The diagonal pattern is recommended for batteries with added extended sections. Thanks to this scheme, hot water is evenly distributed throughout the entire volume of the battery. The heat transfer efficiency is maximum here.

As the famous saying goes: “Prepare the cart in winter, and the sleigh and radiators in summer.” Everyone faces the need to change batteries sooner or later, and, of course, this should be done during the off-heating season.

Before we get into details step by step instructions on installing heating radiators with your own hands, let's focus on technical characteristics ah the main types. After all, the installation process largely depends on the design features. Therefore, it is necessary to choose the right radiator based on the area of ​​the room, the operational properties of the heating system, SNiPs, norms and regulations for installation, etc.

1. Cast iron.
2. Steel.
3. Aluminum.
4. Bimetallic.

Cast iron radiators

Heating radiator installed in the apartment

Cast iron radiators are perhaps the real “long-livers” on the market. Just a few decades ago, such batteries were in almost every house and apartment. But even today, despite technical progress and the emergence of newer modern radiators, cast iron products are very popular among our compatriots. Why are they so good?

It should immediately be noted that today these heating systems have been significantly modified and technically improved. Therefore, speaking about the advantages and disadvantages, we will focus on those radiators that are currently on the market. One of the main advantages of such batteries is their long service life. Manufacturers provide a guarantee of at least 50 years, but with proper care, this period can be doubled or even tripled. Of course, during this time the aesthetic appearance of the heating radiator may become obsolete, but there is a purely technical possibility of operating for such a long time!

Due to the massiveness and high heat capacity of cast iron, these radiators are capable of for a long time save high temperature after turning off the coolant. They are quite resistant to pressure changes and aggressive environments. But due to its massiveness and heavy weight, installation of cast iron batteries is a rather lengthy and labor-intensive process. In addition, they are not very different in their beautiful appearance, unless, of course, the cast-iron construction is the “highlight” of the style concept of the interior.

Steel radiators

Steel radiator in an apartment - photo

These products belong to the new generation of batteries and come in two types: panel tubular.

Steel radiators are characterized by high heat transfer, increased energy saving, and high efficiency. The design consists of two steel plates connected by welding. These products are manufactured with two types of connection: side and bottom. The choice depends on the original location of the heating circuit. Their high popularity in the market is due to their light weight, ease of installation and attractive appearance. When purchasing, be sure to carefully examine the coating, as this affects further operation.

Tubular radiators are a structure consisting of several sections fastened together by welding. Depending on the area of ​​the room and the heating effect, it is necessary to calculate the power finished module and select optimal size. Tubular steel batteries are characterized by excellent heat dissipation, high level operational technical characteristics and low price.

One of the advantages of these radiators is also their main disadvantage, if you turn off the heating system - steel radiators They lose their heat very quickly and, on the contrary, “help” the ambient temperature to cool the temperature of the liquid in the system. If cast iron radiators remain warm for a few more hours, their steel counterparts will become cold within 15-20 minutes.

Aluminum radiators

Aluminum battery for 10 sections

Made from aluminum alloy and painted with powder enamel. Due to their high heat transfer capacity, such batteries quickly and efficiently warm up the room. Smooth, aesthetically pleasing and lightweight. They are very popular on the market today, but they also have a number of disadvantages.

The connection of individual sections is made using the coupling thread method, which allows for fairly quick installation of the battery. High tightness aluminum batteries achieved through the casting method. Each section is cast in a separate mold and then joined into one overall structure.

In force chemical properties metal, aluminum radiators are not able to withstand high pressure, which is often created in the central heating systems Oh. Therefore, for installation in an apartment with a central heating system, it is better not to use these thin batteries. They are more suitable for a private home with a self-regulated level of water pressure in the system.

Bimetallic radiators

Device bimetallic radiator

These products occupy one of the leading positions on the market today. Made from high quality alloys, they are double design. The outer layer of the panel is made of aluminum, which ensures lightness, excellent appearance and high heat transfer. And the core of the structure is made of an alloy of metals that are resistant to corrosion and high pressure drops.

Thus, bimetallic batteries combine the best technical solutions from steel and aluminum radiators. The only drawback of these products is their high cost, which, however, is justified by the long service life and excellent energy-saving factor.

High technical properties and attractive appearance allow them to be used as easily manageable and effective system heating for the apartment.

Another undeniable advantage is the possibility self-determination number of sections. Based on your needs, the area of ​​the room and the required volume of heated air, you can personally assemble a radiator consisting of at least three or thirty-three sections, which, naturally, is not available when choosing cast iron or aluminum analogues.

Calculation of the required number of sections

Table for calculating the number of battery sections.

Once you have decided on the choice of radiator, you need to correctly calculate its size. After all, even the most efficient radiator will not provide heat in the room if its dimensions are not capable of heating the room.

The basic value for calculating the size of the radiator and the number of sections is the area of ​​the room. We offer a simplified (household) option for calculating the number of radiator sections.

As a standard, to provide the necessary heat in a room, 100 W per 1 square meter of area is sufficient. In a simple mathematical way we calculate:

Q=S*100, where:

Q is the required heat transfer from the radiator.

S is the area of ​​the room.

This formula will tell you what radiator power to use to heat a room if the radiator is a one-piece, non-separable structure. If his scheme involves increasing additional sections, then we add one more parameter to these calculations:

N – required number of radiator sections.

Qс – specific thermal power of one section.

To make the calculations correctly, no higher technical education is required. Just pick up a tape measure and measure the area of ​​the room.

Please note, this formula is suitable for standard apartment with a ceiling height of 2.7 meters, if the height of your ceilings is much higher, we recommend doubling the required number of sections!

Where will we place it?

Typically, radiators are placed where the greatest heat loss in the apartment is expected. Typically this is the area under the window or from the outside corner wall Houses. Even if the apartment is located in a well-insulated building and is equipped with double-glazed windows, the window is the place where the air temperature will be the lowest during the cold season.

Choice optimal location for radiator

If you don't put a radiator under the window, then cold air penetrating from the outside will gradually fall down and spread across the floor. From physics lessons we know that warm air moves up. This means that, moving away from the battery and rising to the ceiling, it will create a kind of barrier to the cold flow from the street. According to SNiP recommendations, the size of the battery should occupy at least 70% of the window, otherwise the warm air will not create the necessary barrier.

If the batteries are too short, a situation may occur where cold zones form on the sides. As a result, the room temperature will be low even with a powerful radiator. As you can see, it is not always only the battery power that provides a comfortable microclimate in the apartment.

Installation features: decide on the wiring system

First, you need to decide on the distribution system for the heating system throughout the apartment: one-pipe or two-pipe.

Single-pipe series circuit. This is the simplest option that will allow you to quickly figure out the radiator connection diagram. The coolant sequentially flows through the pipe, passes through the radiator structure, and then returns back into the pipe.

The two-pipe version is also popularly called “return”. This parallel connection, when the coolant passes through one pipe and returns, already cooled, back. Although this option will cause some difficulties for beginners, it has a lot of advantages:

• the room is heated evenly;
• You can use a thermostat to set the required temperature for each individual radiator.

Choosing the right connection type

The type of connection is no less important: side, bottom or diagonal.

Typically, the type of connection is selected depending on the layout and features of the apartment.

When the choice is made and you have decided on the type of radiator and the type of its connection, you can begin installation work.

Today, the most popular among heating devices for apartments with a central heating system are cast iron and bimetallic batteries.

We suggest that you familiarize yourself in detail with the instructions for each of these options, which have a number of technical features.

Before starting installation for apartments with a central heating system, it is necessary to obtain permission from the relevant authority to carry out installation work. You will have to drain the water from the batteries, which means you must first turn off the entire riser. This is prerequisite, failure to comply with which may result in a serious administrative fine. After you fill out all the documents, a plumber will come to you at the appointed time to drain the water to the desired floor. Of course, the dismantling and installation of batteries must be carried out during the non-heating season.

Damage to the tightness of the heating system in an apartment during the heating season can lead to an accident, for which you will be charged a significant fine. In addition, you will leave the entire house without heating for a long time!

Installation of bimetallic radiators: SNiP for apartments

There is a wide variety of bimetallic radiators on the market today, which differ not only in shape, size, but also in the type of connection: side and bottom. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with detailed instructions installation of a bimetallic radiator with a standard side connection.

The procedure for measuring the heating system in an apartment with your own hands (when installing batteries in a new building, you can skip the dismantling step):

1. Removing old batteries.
2. Attaching the brackets.
3. Assembly and installation of radiators.
4. Connection to the heating system.
5. Check for strength and leakage.

To install bimetallic batteries, we will need the following tools and materials.

Materials:

• Battery pack.
• Brake cleaner and brush (for cleaning radiator threads).
• Brackets that are selected depending on the wall material. Their number is calculated depending on the size of the radiator itself. For a standard radiator consisting of 6-8 sections, you need to take 3-4 fasteners.
• Squeegees or adapters. These elements will allow you to connect the radiator to the heating circuit pipe without welding.
• Accessories (valves, adapters, couplings).
• Mayevsky tap - with the help of this part, if necessary, you can remove accumulated air from the pipes (the so-called “Airing”).
• Thermostat. Allows you to control the feed hot water into the radiator, which allows you to independently set the microclimate in the house. You can, of course, get by with a regular half-turn tap, but then you will have to manually adjust the degree of opening of the tap once a day in order to avoid temperature surges. And this, you see, is not entirely comfortable.
• Tow, sealing tape.

Attention!!! The thermostat for the radiator is installed only with a two-turbo connection system!

Installation of bimetallic batteries must be done in the original packaging (film). Top layer The radiator is made of high quality aluminum, and this material is quite fragile. It is easy to damage it during installation work with a tool, so open only those areas to which you will connect pipes and adapters.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with detailed video instructions for installing a steel or bimetallic radiator in an apartment:

Step-by-step instructions for installing cast iron batteries in an apartment

Installation cast iron radiators has a number distinctive features. First of all, this is due to the heavy weight of the products, which cannot be installed alone.

The method of connecting the battery to the pipe will also differ. If steel and aluminum pipes We connect using threads, then gas welding will be used here. Before you begin installation work, you need to stock up necessary set tools and materials.

In conclusion, we would like to invite you to familiarize yourself in detail with the video instructions for installing radiators with your own hands, so that you can clearly see some of the installation features.

Correct installation of a radiator in an apartment is the key to efficient operation of the heating system and comfort in the house. Therefore, strictly follow all the rules of this instruction and you will definitely succeed.

Installing a cast iron radiator with your own hands - video of the process from A to Z

Proper installation of heating devices is an excellent way to ensure an optimal indoor microclimate during the cold season. Today we will talk about how to properly install heating radiators in an apartment. This work cannot be called too difficult. It is only important to strictly follow all the rules and nuances of installation.

How to choose a radiator?

The range of heating devices on the market is, frankly, impressive. A wide variety of batteries are presented - from budget to exclusive options. However, the principle “the more expensive the better” does not always work. Secret the right choice— in the ability to find the option that is optimal for you.

Here are the factors to consider when purchasing:

• Type of housing (apartment in multi-storey building, private house).
• Heating system wiring.
• Method of installing a heating device.
• Temperature conditions in the heating system.
• Material used to make pipes.
• Location of the apartment in the house.
• The need for control devices and fittings.

Depending on the material of manufacture, there are such options.

Cast iron

Today's cast iron batteries do not in any way resemble the heavy, bulky “accordions” of the times Soviet Union. These are flat panels of a completely modern design. Cast iron retains heat for a long time and has good heat transfer. Cast iron batteries last quite a long time: from 20 to 50 years.

Important! Main disadvantage cast iron products- large mass. The weight of one section is 8 kg. For this reason, install them in rooms with wooden or plasterboard walls it is forbidden. In addition, due to the roughness of cast iron, radiators are quite difficult to clean from contamination.

Aluminum

In design they are not much different from cast iron products. The main difference is the weight of the sections (one section weighs 1 kg). Like cast iron, aluminum has good heat dissipation. Such batteries can be mounted on walls made of any material.

Important! The main disadvantage is the susceptibility to corrosion from chemically aggressive coolant and sensitivity to surges in water pressure.

Bimetallic

The bimetallic design is a kind of compromise between cast iron and aluminum. Outwardly they resemble aluminum, but are chemically neutral with respect to an aggressive aqueous environment and are insensitive to pressure changes in the system. They are very easy to install, have good heat dissipation, and are affordable.

Steel

Steel radiators have modern design and excellent thermal properties. Disadvantages steel structure practically none, except that they do not tolerate water hammer well.

How to install a heating radiator with your own hands - preliminary steps

Before starting installation work, you must agree on the installation diagram with specialists. This will allow for proper installation and efficient heating of the apartment or house. Preliminary work are performed in this order:

1. Shut off the water in the apartment and near the installation site.
2. Drain the water in the area where the radiator needs to be replaced.
3. Blow out the pipes and drain the remaining water.
4. Mount new battery in accordance with the instructions and recommendations of the manufacturer.
5. After the heating unit is installed, test it for leaks.

Rules for installing batteries, in accordance with SNiP

Correctly install heating radiators in the apartment in accordance with the following requirements:

1. It is necessary that the centers of the window and radiator coincide. The error should not exceed 20 mm.
2. The width of the battery should be 0.5-0.7 of the width of the window sill.
3. Battery height above finishing floor covering should not exceed 120 mm.
4. The distance from the top of the battery to the window sill should not exceed 20 mm.
5. The interval between the battery and the wall is from 20 to 50 mm. This distance can be reduced if the wall is treated with heat-reflecting material.

Aluminum construction:

1. Pre-assemble the device.
2. Screw in the plug, install thermostatic and shut-off valves.
3. Install the Mayevsky crane.
4. Mark where the device will be mounted on the wall.
5. If necessary, treat the wall with heat-reflecting material.
6. Attach the brackets to the wall.
7. Hang the battery on the brackets, placing hooks between the sections.
8. Connect the radiator to an autonomous or individual heating system.

Important! There are 2 types of radiators for sale: different types buildings: designed for a pressure of 6 atmospheres (for autonomous heating systems) and devices designed for a pressure of up to 16 atmospheres (used for installation in high-rise buildings).

Features of installation of cast iron and bimetallic structures

The installation procedure is almost the same as for aluminum batteries:

1. It is recommended to install devices at a slight slope to avoid air accumulation in the radiator (this leads to a decrease in heat transfer).
2. Before installation, unscrew the device, check the nipples, then assemble it together.
3. In houses with wooden walls, brackets alone cannot be used. The battery is installed on floor stands, and the brackets act as additional support.

Vodokanalsbyt company is large company, providing high-quality plumbing services in Moscow and the region. Our capabilities allow us to successfully solve even the most complex problems.

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Installation work – from 2,400 rubles

Radiator removal - FREE!

The surveyor's visit is FREE!

Battery delivery is FREE!

We guarantee quality work!

• Free engineer visit
• Materials at wholesale prices
• 5 year warranty on installation and materials
• Free delivery of materials
• We ourselves will agree to disconnect the risers with the management company
• Masters with many years of experience

We are professionally engaged in replacing heating batteries in apartments and houses according to low prices. We provide a full range of services and guarantee integrity and a responsible approach. Installation is carried out experienced craftsmen with high-precision tools and appropriate skills.

Over the years of work, we have developed an optimal algorithm for cooperation with the customer. We are ready to go to any site, be it an apartment, office or private house. Information about market conditions, accumulated technical knowledge and strong business ties with manufacturing plants have made Vodokanalsbyt one of the industry leaders.

Prompt interaction with direct suppliers of materials and equipment allows us to set prices recommended by manufacturers. This eliminates multiple intermediary markups, overpayments and additional payments.

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• Preparation and production of components for individual orders;
• Replacement of heating radiators on welding and threaded connections.

What do you need to know when installing heating radiators?

The heating system is essential element comfort of any apartment or house. It provides the desired indoor air temperature regardless of the weather outside. That is why only professionals should be hired to install heating radiators in apartments and houses.

The heating system operates under high pressure, and with him there are no trifles. In addition, existing radiators made of different materials designed for specific loads and operating modes. An ill-conceived and illiterate approach can reduce the performance of even expensive premium equipment. And unqualified installation of heating radiators carries a real threat of accidents and leaks, which may cause large financial losses.

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The creation and repair of a heating system, as a rule, involves the replacement or installation of heating devices. Fortunately, if you wish, you can carry out this work yourself, saving a lot of money. In what order should heating radiators be installed, what is necessary to complete the work, and what nuances may await during repairs - we will tell you about this in our article.

What do you need for installation?

Installation of any heating radiator does not take place without purchasing certain consumables and using special devices. At the same time, regardless of the type, the set necessary materials almost always remains identical. The differences are only in small points, for example, larger plugs are used to install a cast iron battery, an automatic air vent is placed above the system, and the Mayevsky tap is not used at all.

Unlike cast iron products, the installation of bimetallic and aluminum heating radiators is carried out in the same way.

As for the placement of steel panel products, the installation procedure has slight differences affecting the moment of hanging the battery. In this case, the kit should include brackets, in addition, with reverse side must be present metal temples, by means of which the heating device is installed by the hooks of the brackets.

Shut-off valves

During the installation of a heating radiator, a pair of shut-off or ball valves is also required. In the first case, they must be regulated. The products are placed at the output and input of each battery.

Ordinary ball valves are used for emergency repairs to turn off and dismantle the radiator, for example, for a moment heating season. With this approach, even if something goes wrong during repair, the system will still function without the part being repaired. The main advantage of this solution is the low cost of ball valves. But on the other hand, you deprive yourself of the ability to adjust heat transfer.

Shut-off control valves do almost the same thing, with one exception - they can also adjust the intensity of coolant flow. Of course, here the price will be slightly higher, but this will make it possible to change the heat transfer in the future. In addition, externally, such devices look much better, especially in angular and straight versions. The result is a neater binding.

Nearby if necessary ball valve can be installed on the coolant supply thermostat. It is a small element that makes it possible to adjust the heat transfer of the battery. However, if your heating radiator itself does not heat the room well, then you should not install a thermostat! Otherwise, the flow will decrease and the battery will heat up even worse.

Today there are various types thermostats, ranging from electronic automatic to conventional mechanical. The latter, by the way, are used in homes more often than others.

Stub

At lateral connection Radiators usually have 4 outlets. One of them is covered with a plug, the second is equipped with a Mayevsky tap, the remaining two are allocated for the return and supply pipelines. Like the vast majority of modern heating radiators, the product is usually painted with white enamel, pleasantly complementing the interior of the house.

Automatic air vent or Mayevsky tap

These elements are small devices for releasing air accumulated in the radiator. Installation is carried out on the collector; it is required when using bimetallic and aluminum radiators. The dimensions of the device are significantly smaller than the diameter of the collector, which may require an additional adapter. However, Mayevsky taps are usually supplied with adapters. The only thing that is required from the buyer is to know exactly the diameter of the collector.

As for automatic air vents, they are also installed on radiators. Compared to Mayevsky taps, they have larger dimensions, which is why they are made only of nickel and brass. Over time, air vents can become covered with enamel, spoiling the appearance of the radiator. Based on this, the installation of these elements is not carried out so often.

Additional tools and materials

In addition to the listed elements, for installing and hanging heating radiators you will definitely need brackets and hooks. Moreover, their number will directly depend on the dimensions of the battery itself:

• If the dimensions of the product do not exceed 1.2 meters or the number of sections does not exceed 8, then a pair of fixation points will be sufficient - one at the bottom and one at the top;

• Every next 5-6 sections or 50 centimeters in length require the use of an additional retainer at the bottom and top.

To seal the connections you will need fum tape, plumbing paste or linen winding.

At the same time, during work you cannot do without dowels, a level and a drill with drill bits. In addition, special equipment will be required to secure fittings and pipes, although this will largely depend on the type of pipe.

Radiator mounting location

It is customary that heating systems are located under the window. This is necessary to cut off cold air from the window with warm air rising upward. You can avoid window fogging due to the dimensions of the heating device, where the width should not exceed 70-75 percent of the window width. During installation, the following parameters must be taken into account:

• The distance from wall to wall should be from 2 to 5 centimeters;
• In the center of the window opening, where there is maximum tolerance should not exceed 2 cm;
• The gap to the window sill is 10-12 centimeters;
• Between the floor and the radiator - 8-12 centimeters.

Battery installation procedure

Now let's talk about how to properly install heating radiators. The work will be much easier if the surface of the wall behind the battery is as smooth as possible.

The middle of the opening is marked on the site, and a horizontal line is drawn under the window sill at a distance of 10-12 cm. The heating device will be aligned along this line in the future. The brackets should be placed in such a way that the top corresponds to the drawn line, in other words, remains strictly horizontal. This arrangement is acceptable for apartments and systems using forced circulation . Along the coolant flow in systems with natural circulation a small slope of 1-1.5 percent is performed. These values ​​cannot be exceeded, otherwise stagnation will form.

Floor installation

Typically, heating equipment is installed on walls, but it happens that they are not able to support even light-weight aluminum products. This happens when covering walls with plasterboard or light plaster concrete. In these cases, floor installation is used.

Some types of steel and cast iron radiators are initially equipped with legs, but they do not always suit the owners in terms of their characteristics and appearance.

Bimetallic and aluminum products can also be installed on the floor. This provides special brackets, which are fixed to the floor surface. Next, the heating equipment is mounted, and the lower collector is installed on the legs in an arc. The legs themselves come in either a fixed leg or an adjustable one. Depending on the material, fastening can be done using dowels or nails.

Fixing to the wall

Hooks are selected depending on the type of dowels. A hole is drilled in the wall the right size, where a plastic dowel is subsequently installed. Next, the hook is screwed in. Interval between heating device and the wall is adjusted with a hook by screwing/unscrewing.

When installing hooks, it is worth considering that most of the load will come to the top of the structure. In this case, the bottom is only needed to hold the system in the desired position. Installation is made 1.5 centimeters below the lower manifold. If this is not done, then in the future the radiator simply will not be able to be hung properly.

The brackets are placed in the place where the installation will take place. For this purpose, the first step is to attach the battery to the wall, after which the points of contact of the brackets are marked. Next, holes are drilled, dowels are driven in and brackets are screwed in. Having placed all the fasteners, the battery is then hung.

Methods for piping heating radiators

Installation of heating systems is carried out with subsequent connection to the pipeline. There are 3 main connection methods:

• Diagonal;
• One-sided;
• Saddle.

When choosing radiators with bottom connection There's not much to choose from. This is due to the fact that each manufacturer himself indicates the supply and installation instructions, which must be followed! Otherwise, there will simply be no heat in the house. When choosing systems with side connections, there are noticeably more installation methods.

Saddle connection

At hidden wiring pipes or lower wiring, installation by this method is considered less noticeable in terms of the finished result and more convenient.

With a lower single-pipe distribution and a saddle connection, as a rule, 2 methods are used - without a bypass and with it. The taps can be installed without a bypass; if desired, the radiator is dismantled and a temporary jumper is placed between the taps.

Much less often this type connection is used when vertical wiring, for example, in risers in multi-storey buildings. This is explained increased heat losses, which amount to 12-15 percent.

Diagonal connection

In terms of heat transfer, a diagonal connection of heating radiators is considered the most optimal of all. Heat transfer is considered the largest.

In apartments with vertical risers and a single-pipe system, the finished result is not the most attractive, although many residents still put up with this due to the increased efficiency.

It is important to note that a bypass will again be needed with a single-pipe system!

One way connection

In apartment conditions, a one-way connection is most often used. It can be single-pipe, which is most likely, or double-pipe. Today in apartments they are most often used metal pipes, and therefore it makes sense to analyze the method of tying steel pipes. In addition to pipes of the required diameter, installation will also require a pair of tees, ball valves and a drain.

Everything connects. Bypass is considered mandatory when using single pipe system . With it, it is possible to turn off the radiator without the need to bleed the system. You cannot install a tap on the bypass, otherwise you will block the flow of coolant, greatly upsetting your neighbors. And in this case it will be difficult to get rid of a fine.

Threaded joints are sealed with linen winding or fum tape. Next, paste is applied on top. There is no need to use a lot of winding when screwing the tap into the manifold. If there is a large amount of it, the formation of microcracks is possible, which will lead to further damage in the future. This point remains relevant for almost all heating products, not counting cast iron appliances.

The bypass can also be welded if you have the appropriate tools and skills.

WITH two-pipe system bypass is not required. The return is connected at the bottom, the supply at the top.

This type of connection is rarely used when pipes are located at the bottom, for example, when they are laid on the floor. This is due to its not the most attractive appearance. Instead, a diagonal connection is more often used.