Despite the fact that tomatoes require constant care and cause a lot of trouble for gardeners, many are willing to spend their time and energy on growing them year after year. One of the most common problems with this crop is curling of the tops.

Why do tomato leaves curl? What are the mistakes when caring for tomatoes planted in greenhouses or open ground, can lead to this? Let's look at the main reasons.

Reasons for tomato tops curling

You have damaged the roots

If you recently planted tomato seedlings and their leaves have changed, it is possible that you have damaged part of the root system. Therefore, the plant does not receive enough nutrition.

Wait a while for the tomato to adapt. When the bush takes root and restores all damage, the leaves will most likely return to their normal shape.

It's too hot outside or in the greenhouse

If it's worth hot weather, the plant tries to reduce the amount of moisture that evaporates through the tops, which is why the leaves curl.

Watch the tomatoes. If the tops have changed their shape for this reason, then in the evening the leaves will unfold in order to be saturated with moisture in the evening and restore the water balance.

If the air temperature in the greenhouse is above +35 degrees, then most likely the leaves will curl.

You rarely water or overwater your tomatoes.

Also, tomato tops can curl if you don’t have time to care for the garden, you forget about watering, or you water the bushes incorrectly, wetting only 3-5 cm of soil.

Due to lack of moisture, the leaf blades of tomatoes begin to curl with their edges up, forming a “boat”.

Lack or excess of microelements in the soil

Often, tomato leaves begin to curl if you forgot to fertilize in a timely manner or if you “overfed” the plants. Due to an excess of microelements, such as nitrogen, tomato leaves may begin to curl inward and dry out.

Garden pests

You did the stepson incorrectly

This procedure is carried out only when the stepsons of the tomatoes grow to 5-7 cm. Remember, you cannot immediately remove too much greenery, as this is serious for tomatoes stressful situation. Carry out the procedure correctly, do not get carried away.

Diseases

Sometimes tomato diseases are to blame for everything, which are not always possible to cope with:

1. Bacteriosis. Tomato bushes grow poorly, they have short shoots, and the flowers are very small.
2. Thin leaf virus. It appears rarely, only if there has been a long drought, and the greenhouse is too light.
3. Bacterial cancer. The leaves of the tomatoes curl up, then they wither, turn brown and dry out. Cracks are visible on the stems.
4. Virus tobacco mosaic. A pattern resembling a mosaic appears on the tops; swellings are visible.
5. Fusarium. First, it makes itself felt on the lower leaves, gradually moving to the top, and over time the tops fall off completely. Then they begin to wither and top shoots bush, and a light or pinkish coating may appear on the fruits - tomatoes.
6. Verticillium wilt. Its symptoms are similar to fusarium, only this disease does not destroy the plants.

Why do the tops of tomato seedlings curl?

We figured out why tomato leaves curl. Seedlings can have the same problems, and they are caused by the same reasons.

The only addition: there are some varieties of tomatoes whose seedlings grow such leaves. Most often these are tall tomatoes, with heavily cut thin leaves that slightly bend downwards. In this case, curled tops are not a sign of disease, so there is no need to worry.

What are these varieties?

• variations of Cherry tomatoes,
• "Honey Drop"
• "Fatima"
• "Japanese crab" and others.

If the seedlings have identical leaves, and they do not dry out, break or fall off, this is the norm.

How to treat tomatoes from leaf curl?

What to do in this situation? You need to understand why this happened and try to eliminate the causes of leaf curling.

Pests

If pests are to blame, treat the plants with special preparations: Akarin, Bankol, Karbafos. However, before you buy this or that drug, carefully read the instructions.

So, for example, if the bushes already have fruits, you cannot use “Tanrek” and “Biotlin”, since toxins will accumulate in them.

Bacterial cancer

If you suspect that the tomatoes in the greenhouse are infected with bacterial canker, collect the diseased bushes and destroy them. Cut the plants and dip the cut in a solution of copper oxychloride. It is prepared as follows: take 60 g of powder per 1 liter of water.

Pour the same solution over the root. Leave the bush on a line in the greenhouse to dry. Then take it outside and burn it.

Attention! Spray everything that grows within a radius of 10 m from the greenhouse with a solution of copper oxychloride: 40 g per 1 liter.

Fusarium

In case of fusarium, it is necessary to remove the affected plants from the greenhouse and burn them, and the remaining healthy ones should be treated with antifungal drugs. If this is not done, all the tomato bushes will die.

Bacteriosis

It will not be possible to cure bacteriosis either. Therefore, collect all the plants in the greenhouse, destroy (dry and burn), and water the soil with potassium permanganate. Sow mustard at this place.

Thin leaf virus

If the thin leaf virus is to blame, then the tomato will not die, but you shouldn’t count on a harvest either. To save plants, spray them with a solution of potassium permanganate every 2-3 days (make a pale pink solution).

Treat them with a urea solution. Also create bushes comfortable conditions: shade.

Excess/lack of nutrients in the soil

Shortage nutrients, as well as their excess, are undesirable. Remember that you cannot fertilize plants with slurry or manure that has not had time to rot - this threatens with an excess of ammonia. And it is harmful to plants.

If you add a lot of nitrogen, the tomato grows a thick stem, large stepsons form, and the leaves curl into a tube. What to do? To improve the situation, add wood ash to the soil.

Take a bucket of water (warm), stir 1 tbsp in it. ash and spray the tomatoes with it. You can buy potassium monophosphate or potassium sulfate. Add 1 tsp to 10 liters of water. one or another drug and treat the plants with this solution.

There are other microelements, the absence or excess of which affects the well-being of the plant and because of this, its leaves curl:

• Potassium. If there is not enough of it, the leaf becomes brown and its veins turn yellow.
• Calcium. The leaves are pale, curl upward, and the leaf veins turn white.
• Phosphorus. With a lack of phosphorus, the veins change color to red with a hint of purple, and the curled leaves become grayish.
• Zinc. Not only the tops curl, but also the tops of the shoots, the leaves become more fragile. If there is a lot of zinc, then the sheets will also curl, but they will turn purple on the underside. In this case, the edges are painted first, and then the color changes throughout the plate.
• Bor. Tomato leaves lighten and curl. The veins turn purple.
• Copper and sulfur. The shoots become smaller.

To help the plant, you need to select proper feeding. Buy fertilizers that contain these microelements. So, you can purchase Kelkat fertilizer containing the necessary substances, for example, “Kelkat zinc” or “Kelkat boron”.

How to prevent tops from curling: preventive measures

How to prevent leaves from curling? To do this, it is enough to follow the following preventive measures:

Protect tomatoes from heat and sun

If it is very hot outside, try to shade the tomatoes. Throw Lurastil or spunbond over them. Don't forget to mulch the soil, which will help cool the roots in extreme heat. It is enough to lay a layer of 8-10 cm of mowed grass.

Maintain proper watering

To prevent tomato leaves from curling, water them every 2 or 3 days. If your beds are mulched, you can reduce watering to once every 5-7 days.

The roots of tomatoes are located quite deep, so a lot of water is required, up to 1 bucket per fruit-bearing bush. But remember, you can’t pour too much at once, otherwise the water won’t have time to be absorbed.

Avoid accumulation of excess water at the roots

If you planted them in clay soil, then during long rains water will collect on the surface and go deep into the ground for a long time. The roots of the plant will constantly be in water.

Therefore, in advance, even at the moment of planting the plants in the ground, fill the hole with loose soil. If this does not help, and the water has flooded the surface of the earth, dig ditches along which the water collected from the tomatoes will flow from the beds to another part of the garden.

Take care of your plants

Don't forget about timely feeding, carry out pinching correctly, destroy pests and fight diseases. If these conditions are met, the tomato leaves will not curl, and you will reap a rich harvest.

Video: causes of tomato tops curling and their elimination

Many amateur gardeners plant tomatoes on their plots. Everyone wants to get good harvest tomatoes, but, unfortunately, tomatoes are a very capricious and whimsical crop. Of course there are many hybrid varieties, which are adapted to unfavorable conditions, but even such plants may not live up to expectations.

Very often, gardeners are faced with the problem of wilting leaves of tomatoes. Sometimes this happens due to the banal drying out of the soil, but sometimes watering does not solve the problem, but, on the contrary, aggravates it. So why do tomato leaves start to wilt?

Withering and curling due to lack and excess moisture

Leaf curling occurs when there is a lack of moisture in the soil. Vegetable growers often water tomato plantings incorrectly: watering is carried out frequently, but in small portions. In this case, only the top 3-5 cm layer of soil is wetted, and the main roots of the tomatoes are located much deeper and as a result the plant suffers from improper watering and lack of moisture, feeling thirsty.

If the bed is not mulched, then watering is carried out once every three days, and when covered with mulch - once every 5-7 days. To properly wet the soil under the plant, you need to pour a bucket of water, but not all at once, but in portions, otherwise the water will simply spread out and will not be able to wet the ground well.

Watering cold water causes the plant to pinch and curl its leaves.

Excess water also causes tomatoes to curl their leaves upward. This happens more often in rainy weather, when water does not drain well. clay soil and the roots of the plants begin to suffocate without air. Therefore, if you have clayey soil in your dacha, you should fill the holes with light, loose soil when planting. And during periods of prolonged rain, it is necessary to make grooves to divert water from the plants.

Withering and curling due to too high temperature

It is because of it that you can see how the leaves of seedlings in a country greenhouse curl. Such consequences are usually caused by an increase in temperature above 35 degrees. Under such conditions, the top of the plant may begin to curl. You can help by airing and treating the leaves with a urea solution (take 1.5 tbsp for about 10 liters of water). 2 days after this treatment, carry out another one - with potassium permanganate (a weak solution).

Withering and curling due to improper pinning

Often, the stepsoning procedure carried out incorrectly can end in failure, and the gardener, if too many stepsons are removed, will be faced with our current problem firsthand. Sometimes the bushes even drop flowers.

Foliar feeding using complex fertilizers will help the plant cope with stress; it is also recommended to use biostimulants.

Withering and curling due to lack of trace elements

Curled tomato leaves may indicate a lack of some micronutrient. Most often, tomatoes lack phosphorus and potassium. With a lack of phosphorus, the leaves curl down, move away from the stem at an acute angle and may turn dark green or acquire a purple tint.

Potassium deficiency is manifested by leaves curling upward from the edges to the middle, young leaves become curly, and ripe tomatoes may have light spots.

Here our helpers will be feeding. Supporters organic farming ash will help. For those who use mineral fertilizers, - superphosphate and potassium nitrate.

Wilting and curling due to improper fertilization

Many vegetable growers, in their desire to get a good harvest, often try to “feed” tomato seedlings as much as possible with various organic fertilizers, forgetting or not knowing that it is excess nitrogen in the soil that causes leaf curling and many other problems with the root system and shoots.

Tomatoes should not be fertilized with fresh or poorly rotted manure, since, firstly, the roots can be burned, and secondly, such manure contributes to the formation of large amounts of ammonia in the soil.

Excess nitrogen blocks the ability of the tomato root system to absorb essential elements such as phosphorus, potassium and zinc.

To avoid negative consequences and remove excess nitrogen from the soil, it is necessary to enrich it with wood ash. This can be done by spraying the soil with a solution of 1 cup of ash per bucket warm water. This solution contains potassium, phosphorus and other trace elements that have a beneficial effect on tomatoes.

Treating plants with a solution of potassium sulfate or potassium monophosphate (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water) will also help correct the situation.

Wilting and curling due to pests of tomatoes and their control

Tomatoes are usually less affected by pests. The main pests of tomatoes are mole crickets, wireworms, cutworm caterpillars and whiteflies.

Medvedka is a brown polyphagous insect, up to 50 mm long, with pronounced digging legs and shortened elytra. Most often found in damp places: near rivers, near reservoirs, on well-manured, humus-rich soils. The mole cricket makes nests in the soil at a depth of 10-15 cm and lays up to 200-350 eggs. After 3 weeks the larvae emerge. The mole cricket damages not only tomatoes, but also cucumbers, beets, carrots, cabbage and potatoes.

Control measures. The most effective drug is "Thunder". You can also use an infusion hot pepper: for 10 l. of water, take 150 g of pepper or 2-3 glasses of table vinegar, pour 0.5 liters into each hole. infusion.

Wireworms- larvae of click beetles. Caterpillars yellow, up to 20 mm long, very dense. They mainly damage root system, and also penetrate inside the stem.

Control measures: to destroy wireworms in an area intended for planting tomatoes, 3-4 days before planting, bury pieces of raw potatoes, carrots, beets, strung on sticks 16-17 cm long, into the soil to a depth of 10-12 cm. The ends of the sticks should stick out of the ground. After 2-3 days, the sticks, along with pieces of vegetables and accumulated wireworms, are pulled out and burned. Wireworms must be collected when digging the garden and must be destroyed. Liming acidic soils and the application of mineral fertilizers reduce their numbers. In the fight against wireworm larvae, the drug “Bazudin” is used. This powder is mixed with sand or sawdust and dropped into the soil near the plants.

Tomato diseases

Late blight- a dangerous fungal infection. A real scourge of tomato gardens. As soon as it gets a little colder and rain or fog falls, an insidious fungus immediately attacks the young leaves and shoots of tomatoes. Characteristic signs Late blight lesions are as follows. The leaves and shoots of tomato bushes become covered with yellowish spots, which become dark brown over time. At high humidity on back side the leaf can be seen to have a light gray, thin coating. On tomatoes, hard spots are visible pressed inward, which over time affect an increasingly larger surface. Affected tomato leaves dry out starting from brown spots, in place of which a translucent tissue of shrunken fibers appears. The fruits and stems rot. Typically, late blight on tomatoes appears after the fungus develops on potatoes, about two weeks later. If you treat potato plants in time, you can prevent infection of tomatoes.

Bacteria of the genus Fusarium (Fusarium wilt). The source of fungus development is: infected seeds, soil, nutritional supplements. The disease is accompanied by a long latent period. It is determined visually at the stage of rapid yellowing of the bushes. Diseased plants must be disposed of. Spray the remaining healthy vegetable bushes with a weak solution of manganese, sprinkle with ash, and treat with sulfur powder. It is easier to fight the infection with preplant preparation: treating seeds with fungicides, saturating the soil with calcium compounds (chalk).

Bacterial cancer of tomatoes. The causative agent of the disease is found in seeds, soil, and plant debris. It is detected by the dark cut of the stem. The disease turns the shoots light brown, covered with ulcers. A clear sign of cancer is that the edges of the leaves turn up, turn yellow, and wither in segments. Diseased stems must be removed special tool. To protect the future harvest, pre-planting fermentation of the seeds and their heating are carried out (usually a couple of hours in the oven at 50 - 60 degrees is enough) chemical treatment drugs against bacterial cancer.

The pathogen forms two types of spores on the roots: endo- and exoconidia. Endoconidia are formed within hyphae. They are unicellular, cylindrical, colorless, with a thin shell, 6-26x3-6 microns in size. They germinate quickly. Exoconidia, or chlamydospores, appear on the surface of the hyphae, have a brown or dark brown color, are unicellular or multicellular, cylindrical, round (5-20 microns in diameter) or other shape, usually collected in chains. Exoconidia germinate after a certain period of dormancy. They can survive for a long time in the soil or on the remains of roots.
The causative agent of the disease penetrates the plant only through mechanical damage to the roots or root collar. The infection spreads especially quickly if seedlings are planted in cold soil or the temperature in greenhouses fluctuates sharply.

Plants infected at an early age usually die.

Control measures. Disinfection of greenhouse soil. Use only healthy seedlings. If adult plants are damaged, mulch the soil surface to form additional roots.

By all indications, tomato plants in a greenhouse are “fatten” from excess nitrogen fertilizers in the soil.

In this case, tomatoes expel a large green mass, but do not strive to produce offspring, since they do not feel any danger to their lives. That is, they form very weak flower clusters with a small number of flowers.

Feeding with mineral fertilizers, which include phosphorus, potassium, zinc, boron and other microelements, will help balance the nutrition of tomatoes and correct the situation in this case.

Superphosphate is ideal for this (dissolve 3 tablespoons in 10 liters of water and feed 1 liter per bush).

But it is best to use an infusion of wood ash as a top dressing; it contains all the nutrients except nitrogen.

Curling of the apical leaves can also occur for other reasons:

• From high temperature in a greenhouse (more than +35°C). In this case, the apical leaves curl by lunchtime, and by night or in the morning the leaf blades are restored. It is necessary to ventilate the greenhouse more often and shade the roof nonwoven materials(span-bond, lutrasil, agril and others).
• From a large difference in night and day temperatures. In this case, the greenhouses are closed at night and opened during the day for good ventilation.
• From frequent but shallow watering of plants. It is better to water tomatoes less often, but more abundantly.
• From the belated removal of a large number of overgrown stepsons and excessive pruning of leaves, as the balance between the above-ground part of the plant and the roots is disrupted. Stepchildren need to be cut when the stepsons are no more than 5-7 cm long. It is permissible to cut 2-3 leaves on a plant per week.
• From damage by viruses or pests. A plant infected with a virus cannot be cured. The fruits from such plants can be used for food, but the seeds cannot be collected.
• Aphids and whiteflies can deform young leaves. In this case, immediately treat the plants with one of the insecticides (Agrolan, Actellik, etc.).

Preparation of ash fertilizer
Pour 2 liters of wood ash hot water and mix thoroughly. Bring the solution to 10 liters with water and leave for 24 hours until all elements are completely dissolved. To obtain liquid fertilizer, take 1 liter of infusion, dilute it in 9 liters of water heated in the sun, and apply 1 liter at the root of each plant.

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With your help, I think I managed to cope with the acidity of the soil. Tomatoes are developing well. They bloom powerfully, the leaves are dark green. But in the middle row opposite the doors, the tops of the tall tomatoes seem to be “curled up”, curled into a “fist”. I read literature. Explanations vary. Basically, I fill it with too much water. This is not the case, because I rake the soil, it is dry. May be insufficient watering. The middle row is practically blown through and the soil dries faster than the side beds. The plants are tall, powerful, and bloom. I think they need good watering. Not 2 times a week, as they say in various reference books. With this heat in polycarbonate greenhouse the soil dries out very quickly. Maybe I'm wrong. Tell me what to do. Previously, there were no such problems when growing tomatoes in homemade greenhouses. Best regards, Valentina.

Hello, Valentina! Many summer residents face this problem. Tomato leaves can become curly for various reasons. You indicated one of them correctly - insufficient watering during hot periods. A plant experiencing a lack of moisture will have curled leaves. Thus, the tomato manages to reduce moisture evaporation by reducing the surface area of ​​the leaf plate. At the same time lower leaves, illuminated by less sunlight and better ventilated, remain normal.

Important! Select the watering mode based on appearance plants. But remember that excess moisture provokes the occurrence of fungal diseases.

Excess nitrogen in the soil

If there is an excess amount of nitrogen fertilizer in the soil, the plant begins to fatten. At the same time, the plants have powerful stems, dark green leaves and curly tops. The plant directs all its strength to the growth of green mass. Big harvest Unfortunately, there will be no fruit if measures are not taken.

It is necessary to balance the amount of fertilizer in the soil by fertilizing with potassium, which is contained in wood ash. Dilute a glass of ash in a bucket of water and pour over the tomatoes. Spraying the leaves with a solution prepared from one teaspoon of potassium sulfate and a liter of water also helps.

Tricks of aphids

Small black aphids, which first settle in the axils of the leaves and then move to the stem and petioles of the leaves, can also cause leaf curling. When sucking juices, aphids introduce a specific substance into the plant tissue, which deforms the stem and curls the leaves. Insects hidden in leaf folds are difficult to kill with insecticides.

Important! When spraying, try to wet all the axils and folds of the leaves.

A sick plant under the pressure of aphids looks exactly as you describe

Curly virus

This is perhaps the most bad reason, because viral diseases tomatoes are not treated. Plants become infected through insects and cutting tool. It is better to remove diseased tomatoes immediately so as not to infect other plants. Break out the stepsons manually without using pruners.

If the tomato seedlings are not satisfied with anything in their care, then they immediately signal this with the help of their leaves. They change color, may curl up, down, or inward, and wither. Knowing the meaning of these symptoms, you can quickly and without special effort help the tomatoes come in normal condition. At the same time, they will continue their growth and development. If you do not pay attention to these problems in time and do not find out the possible causes, the seedlings may die or weaken and subsequently produce a poor harvest. Why the top leaves of a tomato curl, read our article.

Common Causes of Curling Leaves

The first thing you need to pay attention to is which leaf blades of the seedlings have begun to curl. If these are cotyledon leaves, then this means that they will soon fly off, which is a completely natural process and always happens as the tomato grows.

However, if real leaf plates begin to curl, then you must definitely figure out what the reason is, and this should be done as soon as possible.

There are many reasons for leaf curl. Among them are the following general reasons:

• improper preparation of the substrate and seed material for sowing or its complete absence;
• the plants lack nutrients or there are too many of them in the soil mixture;
• stagnation of fluid in the root system or drying out of the earthen coma;
• excessively low level humidity in the room;
• the room is very hot;
• seedlings do not have enough light;
• the leaves were exposed to direct scorching rays of the sun;
• the plant is affected by a disease or harmful insects have settled on it;
• the root system of the bushes is very crowded in the container in which the seedlings are grown;
• during transplantation or pinching, the tomatoes received serious mechanical damage;
• feature of the variety.

Curling of the top leaves of tomato seedlings due to a small container

Everything is clear here - the root system of a grown plant becomes crowded in a small container, it does not receive adequate nutrition, and the growth of the tomato is inhibited. Is it any wonder why the leaves of tomato seedlings curl? Urgently plant the tomatoes permanently, or transplant them into a larger container.

Curling of the upper leaves of tomatoes due to high ambient temperatures

Tomatoes stop absorbing the necessary components when they are cold, at 14 they are not saturated with phosphorus, and at 10 they do not absorb nitrogen. But at temperatures exceeding 35, the leaves of the seedlings turn inward due to overheating. Seedlings develop normally at 20–23 degrees.

Curling of the upper leaves of tomatoes due to damage to the root system

Every gardener knows that replanting tomatoes from the boxes in which the seedlings were grown must be done very carefully. To do this, a hole in the garden bed in a greenhouse or in open ground is prepared and moistened in advance. The plant is carefully removed from the container so that the root system is not damaged. Sometimes the roots grow too much, become tangled and are damaged during replanting. In this case, the plant will respond to root damage by curling its leaves.

For the plant to recover, it needs to be given time. Stop any feeding for a while, allowing tomato seedlings independently strengthen the root system. Adding minerals and organic fertilizers, other nutrients provoke the growth of leaf mass, and the roots in this case will weaken, so there is no need to feed the plant. After the roots are restored, the leaves will straighten out and take on a normal appearance.

Curling of the top leaves of tomatoes due to improper watering

When the foliage begins to curl inward, and each leaf begins to look like a kind of boat, problems with improper watering become apparent. It's no secret that tomatoes need a lot of moisture, but this does not mean that they need to be filled with a lot of water every day. With excess liquid, the roots located at the top develop much faster than the bottom ones, which leads to uneven saturation of the entire plant.

Watering should be done abundantly, but not often. Once a week is enough, in dry weather you can increase to two. It is necessary to monitor top layer soil, it must be constantly moist.

Curling of the upper leaves of tomatoes due to improper feeding

This mainly concerns improper application of fertilizers. Leaves can curl, both with an excess of microelements and with their deficiency. For example, an excess of zinc entails this process, as well as a lack of calcium, copper or boron. To solve this problem, you need to regularly fertilize tomato seedlings at home. During the entire growing period, at least 3 main feedings are required. Moreover, it will be better if you alternate organic and mineral fertilizers.

Curling of the upper leaves of tomatoes due to leaf burns

The spring sun often causes burns on the tender leaves of seedlings, which curl into a “ram’s horn” from the bright rays. The scorch marks have a rounded yellowish spot, do not expand and are not transmitted to neighboring seedlings. It is no longer possible to restore plant tissue. The tomatoes will not be lost, but they must be protected from excessive light by darkening the window with a curtain, film or blinds. You can’t spray seedlings in the heat, or water them at the roots. Dew drops act like lenses, focusing the sun's rays and causing numerous burns and caking of leaves.

Curling of the upper leaves of tomatoes due to damage by insect pests

Aphids, whiteflies and spider mite. And although they rarely appear on tomatoes, sometimes you can see settlements of these pests on the back of the leaves. Insects feed on plant juice, which they suck out of them, as a result of which the foliage of tomatoes, receiving an insufficient amount of useful elements, begins to curl and change color to light brown.

To get rid of pests, use decoctions based on onion peels, celandine, and in rare cases, zala helps. You can also use store-bought products, but they should be used with caution, since the fruits and leaves of tomatoes accumulate harmful substances.

Curling of leaves is not always a sign of a disturbance in plant growth. However, if such appearance is not a characteristic feature of the variety, it should be carefully analyzed possible reasons that they are curling and take appropriate measures.