It would seem that there is nothing to write about insulation... 🙂 But we have come up with so many artificial insulations based on the “bad” insulator - Air, that you cannot pass by. Is it just us? And how many natural insulation materials Mother Nature gave us! Let's remember and look at everything at once, we don't need much... *PARDON*
Of course I'll start with natural ones. It’s cheap and therefore fashionable during a crisis :) If I missed someone, add in the comments and I’ll correct it...
Tyrsa, turf, peat briquettes, pine needles, straw, husks, reeds, cork (cork oak bark), flax and hemp mats, damask (dried sea grass), sheep's wool, ash, slag (as waste from home heating). Not a little. Nature is Generous. And on the basis of these insulation materials, our Ancestors created systems of Eco Houses and even villages in which entire generations lived.
But modern Man more civilized. His requirements for comfort have increased, and this required the creation of more effective and more durable insulation materials. Following the numerical growth of Humanity, the area of houses and the requirements for their Comfort have also grown. Today, thanks to modern insulation, we consume less energy per capita than our ancestors (I didn’t come up with this, I read the statistics 😉). And what artificial insulation(requiring high-tech equipment and additional energy) are on the market today?
Cellulose, basalt wool, glass wool, slag wool, foam glass, vermiculite, perlite, expanded clay, polystyrene (PSB and EPS), polyethylene foam, polypropylene foam, vacuum panels, aerated fiber concrete, aerated concrete, slag (industrial waste). I do not list building materials based on these insulation materials and with better thermal insulation properties ( ceramic blocks, foam concrete, cinder block, laminated wood beams, etc.), because they are not just insulation.
As we can see, there is plenty to choose from. Why do we need such a choice? And the answer is simple... Each material has a set of properties. The art of the Builder lies in this: knowing the properties of materials, choose the insulation that has will make maximum use of it best sides in a specific situation!
ATTENTION!
I PUBLISH MY PERSONAL OPINION
The Internet is full of information and tables with technical characteristics building materials and insulation in particular. They are interesting to me Professional Builder. But I'm not going to reprint or copy them. After all, that’s not why you came to my Construction Blog, so as not to get answers again.
I make up Comparison tables for Ukraine according to different principles. I assign points based on my own experience and analysis of the properties of materials. I take into account not only technical parameters, but also durability, manufacturability, etc. The main condition... YOU CAN ' T GIVE THE SAME POINTS.
Next point. Don't forget that Home is a System! Insulation is only a small part of this system. That's why not only him, but also on him influence other elements of the system! Be sure to make the final choice of material with your Architect. After all, He is responsible for your House.
And on the other hand. Yes, I do not take into account the effect that insulation has on other materials. In this case, I am interested in the Insulation itself. His personal selfish Comfort! 🙂 In what place in the House system can he demonstrate his positive qualities to the maximum. But your Design Engineer and Architect is responsible for ensuring that he feels good there. Don't forget this. Any material can be destroyed by improper use.
What? Are you scared? 🙂 Of course it’s scary. Making a choice is always scary. So let's watch the video and make a conscious choice...
The first table is Natural Insulation. As you can see, their variety allows you to insulate the entire house. From the foundation to the roof. And at the same time, their durability has long been proven. For example, there are houses made of adobe that are 150 years old and the straw in them is in excellent condition. And a turf roof lasts more than 50 years. Many modern materials cannot boast of this, as well as the environmental friendliness of the material itself, as well as their production and, of course, disposal.
But we should not forget about other characteristics of materials. This is not just the original Price of the Material itself, A Construction Price with these materials. Their Manufacturability (natural) - which is often inferior to modern ones Artificial materials, which fit easier and faster...
To view this part of the topic, please, or go and go to the Blog under your Login.Of course, everything can be covered in the signs and small video- Impossible! But this is not the last topic in the Blog 😉 Gradually on the pages of my Construction Blog I will reveal all the features of using materials. I have a lot of work ahead of me, and you need to be patient. 🙂
Sincerely, Alexander Terekhov.
Insulating the ceiling in a private house can significantly reduce the amount of heat loss during the cold period and significantly improve the indoor microclimate in the summer. High-quality thermal insulation will give you, in addition to increased comfort, significant savings. family budget on heating. The costs associated with the purchase of insulation will pay off in 2-3 years.
In addition to reducing the cost of heating a house, floor insulation solves a number of other problems. Preventing admission warm air in the attic, the insulating structure prevents the accumulation of water vapor and moisture in the under-roof space, which damages the rafters and floor beams. In addition, insulation allows you to avoid melting snow on the roof and the formation of large icicles, which are very dangerous during thaws. When organizing living space in the attic, the soundproofing function is very useful. In any case, ceiling insulation is a necessary measure for a private home.
Anyone can carry out ceiling insulation work home handyman. Installation requires a minimum level of initial training for the performer. The tips below will help you avoid typical mistakes and carry out the planned work quickly, without exerting extra effort. By carefully planning the work process and preparing in a timely manner necessary materials V the right quantity, you will save your time, nerves and transportation costs. Let's take a closer look at how to properly insulate a ceiling in a private home.
Where to insulate the ceiling: inside or outside
Insulation of the ceiling in a private house can be carried out both from the inside and from the outside. Both options give quite good results. They differ in the materials used and the methods of their installation, so each master chooses an option that is convenient for himself for specific living conditions taking into account economic feasibility.
Options for attic insulation
With external insulation, the insulation is installed in the attic. If the attic space is not used, then the insulation in decorative finishing does not need, which distinguishes this option from the previous one. In addition, with external insulation it's much more convenient to work.
Internal insulation provides for fastening thermal insulation materials on inner surface ceiling and installation suspended structures from plasterboard, plastic, wood, etc. It must be taken into account that when internal insulation 15-20 cm of room height is lost. Therefore, if your ceiling is at 2.5 m or lower, then you should give preference to insulation from the attic.
Internal insulation is worth choosing if you are going to do repairs and plan installation suspended ceiling. In all other cases, preference should be given to external insulation.
Selection of material for thermal insulation
The following thermal insulation materials are popular for insulating private houses:
- Foam;
- Expanded polystyrene;
- Penoizol;
- Polyurethane foam;
- Penofol;
- Mineral wool;
- Basalt wool;
- Ecowool;
- Expanded clay;
- Sawdust;
- Vermiculite;
- Dry grass, pine needles, reeds.
External insulation using polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam is perhaps one of the cheapest and available ways. This task is fairly easy to complete on your own. The materials are resistant to moisture, do not rot, do not burn, but in the event of a fire they melt, releasing acrid, toxic smoke. Expanded polystyrene essentially consists of the same material as polystyrene foam, but is manufactured slightly differently. The main disadvantages are the release of toxic phosgene gas during combustion and a relatively short service life (up to 10 years). When using them, it is necessary to pay increased attention to fire safety.
Penoizol is a liquid foam plastic. Does not burn, is vapor permeable, biologically stable, and has superior thermal insulation properties to polystyrene foam. Manufacturers claim complete safety for humans after hardening. It is produced directly on site and installed using a special, expensive installation, so the work is carried out only by specialized teams. Convenient and economically feasible for large volumes.
Work is carried out similarly with polyurethane foam, which is synthesized from two liquid components. Depending on the proportion used, a polymer foam with different properties. The surface is covered with a continuous layer without joints, eliminating the possibility of blowing through cracks. Disadvantage - toxic substances are released when burned.
The process of pouring penoizol
Penofol is foamed polyethylene covered with aluminum foil. Prevents the penetration of cold air, drafts and radon, reflects radiant heat into the room. The material is very light, does not create additional loads, and works very well in combination with mineral wool. Due to its small thickness, it has almost no effect on the height of the room.
Mineral wool contains mainly natural materials: sand, rocks or melts. Available in rolls and sheets different sizes. Has good heat and sound insulation characteristics and affordable price. Needs protection from moisture, as when wet it completely loses thermal insulation properties. It is resistant to temperature changes, restores its shape after load, but cakes over time. The material, unlike glass wool, is almost not itchy, but still requires protective equipment at work. The main disadvantage is the phenol content, which can easily penetrate human skin.
Basalt wool is made from rock melts. Available in the form of mats and slabs. It is characterized by resistance to loads and high temperatures, hydrophobicity, and elasticity. The material is capable of transmitting water vapor and does not allow it to accumulate inside, does not shrink and can withstand use for up to 70 years without loss of quality. Just like mineral wool, it contains phenolic binders, and the fibers can irritate the skin and mucous membranes.
When carrying out work indoors, mineral wool or basalt wool is usually used. This vapor permeable materials that allow the ceiling to “breathe”.
Ecowool is a bulk material of natural origin, consisting of 80% cellulose with borate additives, which protect it from easy ignition and rotting. Laying work can be carried out wet method using a special installation and dry manually. Manual method extremely simple. It is enough to pour cotton wool between the joists onto previously laid glassine and lightly loosen it. Ecowool increases in volume by 2-3 times. The recommended layer thickness is 30 cm. The thermal conductivity is the same as that of mineral wool, while ecowool is not afraid of moisture and prevents the development of fungi and mold. Serves for more than 100 years.
It is possible to use cheap local materials such as expanded clay, sawdust, hay, pine needles, reeds, clay and slag to insulate the attic floor. Their cost is often equal only to the cost of delivery, but their thermal insulation properties are noticeably lower and they are more difficult to install. Sawdust requires special protective treatment before laying. Otherwise, they can be damaged by rodents, rot and become very flammable. Hay is a tempting place for various small bugs and insects to settle. For a noticeable thermal insulation effect, all bulk insulation materials require a significant thickness - from 30 cm, which leads to a heavy load on the floors.
Good results are achieved by combining sawdust with vermiculite. Both materials are of natural origin, easily absorb moisture and easily release it, maintaining optimal humidity. Vermiculite is made from hydromica and is considered an ideal bulk insulation with environmentally friendly properties. In terms of thermal conductivity, it is comparable to mineral wool. The only drawback of vermiculite is the price.
Laying bulk insulation involves filling it between the joists or beams of a specially made sheathing.
If the environmental friendliness of materials is important to you, then you should opt for expanded clay or sawdust with vermiculite. If high thermal insulation properties and ease of installation are important, your choice is basalt wool.
Insulation with basalt wool: step by step
Let's take a closer look at how to do external insulation with your own hands using one of the most effective insulation materials- basalt wool.
Required materials:
- Basalt wool slabs 100 mm thick;
- Vapor barrier film;
- Waterproofing film;
- Foil tape;
- Wooden beam;
- Hardware.
Tools:
- Stapler;
- Roulette;
- Hacksaw or jigsaw;
- Hammer;
- Bench knife;
- Screwdriver.
- Step 1. First of all, you need to do a thorough cleaning of the attic and create flat surface for laying basalt wool.
- Step 2. If the attic is planned to be residential, then lay wooden frame for the future floor. The pitch between the lags is determined in accordance with the width of the insulation boards in order to ensure the tightest possible fit.
Subject to availability wooden beams ceiling insulation is placed in the space between them. If the height is insufficient, additional bars are attached on top.
If the attic will not be used, then this item can be skipped.
The height of the insulation depends on the climatic characteristics of the area and the roof structure. In most cases, it is optimal to use two layers of basalt wool 100 mm thick.
- Step 3. Vapor barrier film is laid. If the floor is reinforced concrete, then this point can be skipped, since it has low vapor permeability.
Fastening to floor beams or joists is carried out using a construction stapler and folding the edges. During new construction, the film is placed under the beams. The sheets are overlapped by 150 - 200 mm, fastened with moisture-resistant tape and must be placed on the walls by at least 200 mm to guarantee the prevention of moisture penetration. The best option the use of foil material is considered. In this case, the sheets are placed end-to-end with the foil down and taped with special tape.
Beams and joists are not covered with a vapor barrier film to avoid the accumulation of moisture in them and rapid rotting.
- Step 4. Sheets of basalt wool are laid on the vapor barrier film, avoiding cracks at the joints if possible. Gaps of 2-3 cm are left near the walls, which are not closed to ventilate the cotton wool.
- Step 5. The second layer is laid with maximum displacement of the seams. In cold climates, a third layer will not be amiss. It is laid across the previous ones and eliminates all potential cold bridges.
For an attic floor that will not be used, you can stop here (unless, of course, the roof is leaking), or you can play it safe by following the recommendations of the next paragraph.
- Step 6. Laying waterproofing film to protect the cotton wool from moisture from entering from above during operation.
- Step 7. The structure for moving around the attic is mounted.
For a residential attic, boards are laid and, if necessary, finishing coat, For non-residential attic it is enough to provide bridges for walking when technical inspection and roof maintenance.
It is better to carry out work in warm time year - in summer or early autumn.
For external insulation, it is better to take vapor-proof materials to protect the ceiling from moisture; for internal insulation - vapor permeable.
The more air the insulation contains, the more effective it is, so we must strive to provide maximum “fluffiness” to materials such as mineral wool, ecowool, and sawdust.
External insulation will always be cheaper and easier to do.
When using internal ceiling insulation and using some models of built-in ceiling lamps frequent burnout of light bulbs is possible due to lack of heat dissipation. In this case, it is better to hang an ordinary traditional chandelier.
For vapor barrier, you can only use a special film with the appropriate marking or glassine; you cannot use ordinary polyethylene.
Penofol is always placed with the foil down.
Can be done comprehensive insulation, combining different insulation materials.
Carrying out insulation basalt wool It is necessary to use a mask and protective clothing that completely covers the body.
Before starting work, you should carefully study the advantages and disadvantages of all available thermal insulation materials, analyze their operational capabilities, estimate the costs and complexity of installation. Making a carefully considered decision and installing thermal insulation, taking into account the above recommendations, will guarantee a safe and effectively insulated ceiling in a private home.
Even though V recent years there is a wide variety on sale modern insulation materials, environmentally friendly waste from the woodworking industry has not lost its relevance as thermal insulation materials. We are, of course, talking primarily about sawdust.
Sawdust is especially often used as insulation when building houses in regions rich in forest spaces, since a large number of sawmills are usually located here. This means that it is possible to purchase material at a low price, and sometimes even find it for practically nothing.
Sawdust as insulation - “pros” and “cons”
Sawdust and materials made from it are used to insulate almost any element of the house - attic floors, walls, floors, cellars, etc. In addition, from wood waste produce blocks that are widely used for the construction of residential and ancillary buildings.
Sawdust is a waste that has a wide range of uses. This material does not lose its popularity due to its positive characteristics, which include the following:
- One of the most important advantages can be safely called the absolute environmental purity of sawdust. They do not emit substances toxic to human health, so they can be used in any quantity.
- An important advantage is the already mentioned accessible to everyone low price material, and sometimes the opportunity to get them for free.
- Sawdust is wonderful, naturally, if the installation technology is followed correctly. If the thermal insulation layer matches required thickness, in accordance with climatic conditions region, then such insulation will not be inferior in its effectiveness to other modern materials.
- Sawdust can be used for insulation, both in the usual bulk state and in other forms. For example, these could be slabs mixed with other natural or artificial materials.
The disadvantages of using this insulation in pure form can be attributed to high flammability. However, if you use sawdust in clay or cement mixtures, then their flammability is significantly reduced.
If we think from the standpoint that the rafters, attic floors and walls are made of wood pre-treated with fire retardants, then sawdust will fit perfectly into this building complex, provided that it is also subjected to special treatment. In addition, it will be necessary to provide high-quality insulation for all electrical cables, which will cross the insulation layer or be located in its thickness. Requires special attention and thermal insulation of the chimney pipe where it passes through attic floor or located near a wall.
It should be noted that sawdust is by no means the only natural material, which has long been used for home insulation. And if you look at the table below, they are in no way inferior to other natural ones." thermal insulators».
| Natural insulation material | Weight of material kg/m3 | Thermal conductivity coefficient |
|---|---|---|
| Tow | 180 | 0,037-0,041 |
| cotton wool | 80 | 0,036 |
| Different felts | - | 0,031-0,050 |
| The fire is different | 150-350 | 0,04-0,065 |
| Moss | 135 | 0.04 |
| Sphagnum peat | 150 | 0,05-0,07 |
| Needles | 430 | 0.08 |
| Chopped straw stuffed | 120 | 0.04 |
| Straw mats | - | 0,05-0,06 |
| Fine wood shavings in packing | 140-300 | 0,05-1,0 |
| Dry leaves | - | 0,05-0,06 |
| Wood sawdust | 190-250 | 0,05-0,08 |
Of course, not all sawdust is the same - much depends on the type and quality of the wood from which it was processed.
So, the almost unconditional “leader” in this matter is oak sawdust. They are less hygroscopic than sawdust obtained from trees of other species. Even if moisture gets on them, it will not cause them much harm, since oak contains natural antiseptic substances. Therefore, they are not susceptible to rot and do not swell when exposed to water.
However, oak sawdust is too widespread you can't call it material. It’s okay - waste from coniferous trees: spruce, larch or pine will also work well as insulation. Coniferous wood contains in abundance essential oils, steadfastly resisting the appearance of fungus or rot, that is, nature itself contains antifungal and antiseptic qualities in the material.
Preparing sawdust
Sawdust, clean, not prepared cannot be considered completely suitable for making blocks or for backfilling as insulation. After final drying, they become a very fire hazardous material. In addition, various insects or rodents may choose them to build nests.
Therefore, with pure material you need to do some preliminary work:
First of all, sawdust is processed special compounds having fire retardant properties.
The fire retardant will make sawdust practically non-flammable... First, the sawdust is mixed with an antiseptic deep penetration, and after drying - with a fire retardant. All processes can be carried out on a lined film a ventilated area under a roof, for example, under a canopy.
... and the antiseptic will prevent biological processes of decay, the appearance of fungus, nests of insects and rodents - After treatment with a fire retardant, the sawdust is mixed with slaked lime, which will not allow rodents and insects to settle in the insulation.
Lime is added to sawdust in proportions of 1:5, that is, one part of lime to five parts of sawdust. The measurement can be carried out in bags - for example, pour out five bags of sawdust and one bag of dry lime, and then mix thoroughly. If the work will be done manually, then mixing can be done using a regular hoe and shovel.
- In addition, you need to take into account that sawdust used for insulation in bulk form tends to sag over time, reducing the formed air gap and, naturally, losing its insulating qualities. Therefore, after a certain period, you will have to top them up or lay other insulation on top of them.
Taking into account this negative factor of subsidence, in order to avoid the need for periodic updating or strengthening of the thermal insulation layer, a mixture is made consisting of sawdust, lime and gypsum in proportions 9: 1: 5. Then the mixture is moistened with water, mixed, and immediately laid on the prepared base .
Since gypsum hardens very quickly, the composition must be prepared in small portions in order to have time to place them in the place intended for them before they harden, otherwise the material will be damaged.
If you don’t want to rush, adjusting to the hardening time of the gypsum, it can be replaced with cement mortar.
When using this insulation method, pre-drying of the sawdust is not required. They can be used immediately after delivery from the sawmill.
Prices for various types of antiseptics
Antiseptics
Methods for insulating a house with sawdust
As mentioned above, for insulation using sawdust, several options for different mixtures with the addition of gypsum and cement are used, but the old one still remains the most popular folk way- composition with clay.
Sawdust with clay
Clay and sawdust are two natural materials, which are absolutely safe for the health of the residents of the house. When mixed, they form a material with excellent heat-insulating and waterproofing qualities, so they are well suited for insulating walls and. After hardening, the clay is not affected by hot steam, which cannot be said about most other modern insulation materials or waterproofing materials. Well, the sawdust in the mixture will create a good thermal insulation effect.
In addition, the clay-sawdust mixture tolerates quite well high temperatures And fireproof.
The advantages of this composition include the fact that such insulation is perfect for a house built in any region - both where the summer heat reaches critical thermometer levels, and where there are bitter frosts in winter.
A mixture of clay and sawdust not only retains heat during the cold period, but also prevents the rooms from heating up in the most intense heat, so in the house, thermally insulated This mixture is warm in winter and cool in summer.
Unlike modern insulation materials, clay-sawdust material can last for centuries without decomposing or losing its original qualities.
Insulating a building using wood waste and clay is not so easy. To achieve the desired thermal insulation effect, it is necessary carry out work in accordance with certain requirements:
- The mixture must be prepared in compliance with certain proportions, otherwise the composition will have low adhesion, and if the walls are coated with it, then after drying, crumbling is possible.
- To reach maximum effect from insulation, the mixture on the walls must be applied correctly and have a certain thickness.
IN modern conditions this composition is rarely used for application to walls - most often sawdust with clay is used to create an insulating layer in the attic floor, where the material will not be subject to serious load.
If you want to insulate the walls, then it is best to make insulating slabs from clay and small sawdust or from chopped reeds or straw.
Experienced builders working with this material recommend using reeds, since for some reason it is absolutely resistant.
Plant fibers mixed with clay will become a kind of “reinforcement” for the solution, which will increase the load-bearing capacity of the insulating layer on the walls.
Preparing the mixture
There are several ways to make a clay-sawdust mixture for home insulation. There are also several methods for laying it. Yes, from ready mixture mats can be made that are fixed to the walls and laid on the attic floor.
Another option is to spread the mixed wet mixture between the floor beams or apply it on the wall, on in advance fixed sheathing.
To produce an insulating mixture and its further use, it is necessary to prepare certain materials and tools. You will need:
- Sawdust, clay and water.
- Glassine and waterproof tape for fastening.
- A metal box with low sides (or trough) for mixing the mass.
- Large container for soaking clay.
- Bucket .
- Shovel and hoe.
- Smooth boards from which forms will be assembled for the manufacture of block panels.
In order for the mixture to be plastic and not crack upon drying, it is necessary to maintain the correct proportions of the starting materials.
A. In the event that the mass in its raw form will be laid on the ceiling or on the surface of the walls, take ⅔ of a bucket of sawdust per bucket clay diluted to creamy condition.
To obtain such a consistency of clay, it is laid out in a large container, for example, in old bath or trough, and is filled with water in a 1:1 ratio. The clay is left to swell for a day or more, depending on the initial dryness of the material.
Then the mass is mixed well until smooth. If the mixture turns out to be very thick, you can add a small amount of water to it, mix well again and leave more for 5 ÷ 6 hours. To process pr It went faster, the mass needs to be stirred periodically.
If possible, it is best to soak all the clay needed for the work at once - it will not deteriorate in any way, no matter how long it is in the water. And the solution can be mixed as the previously prepared portion is consumed.
If the farm has one, then the work will go much faster. But it is most convenient to mix manually using a hoe and shovel.
To mix the clay-sawdust solution, you will need another large but shallow container made of thin metal, with sides 150 ÷ 200 mm high. Gets enough sleep there required quantity sawdust for one portion of the batch, and, according to the proportions, the clay mixture is laid out. Then the composition is mixed well and laid out on the prepared attic floor or applied to the walls.
B. If it is decided to insulate the house with mats made from a clay-sawdust mixture, then the materials are taken in 1:1 proportions. While the clay is swelling, during this period you need to make molds the right size, into which the finished mixture will be placed.
If the mats will be laid on the attic floor, then it is worth determining the distance between the beams and their height - the forms are made according to these parameters. They are essentially a box with no bottom.
It is best to make several molds to make several mats at once. To ensure that the blocks are even on all sides, it is recommended to proceed as follows:
- Place one or more on a flat surface plywood sheets, which are covered with thick polyethylene film.
- Forms are installed on top.
- The prepared clay-sawdust mixture is laid out in them and, as far as possible, compacted.
- The composition is leveled from above using a rule - in this case, the sides of the form will serve as beacons.
- After the mixture has set and dried slightly, the mats can be removed, and further drying will take place without form, in a well-ventilated place under the roof. They cannot be taken out in the sun, since upon final drying the resulting blocks may crack.
- The emptied molds are filled again with the mixture - and this continues until the required number of mats is made.
The process of insulation with clay-sawdust composition
The technology of insulation with a clay-sawdust mixture is quite simple, both with the help of mats and by laying out the mixture in a wet state.
Insulation with clay-sawdust wet mass
1. When insulating an attic floor using clay-sawdust mass, you must first prepare the surface on which it will be laid out.
- Floor boards and beams are treated with antiseptic compounds. If there are wide gaps between the boards, then glassine can be laid between the floor beams. In the case when several sheets of glassine are laid, they must be overlapped and preferably secured with waterproof tape.
- Next, a clay-sawdust mixture is laid out on the floor and leveled using a rule.
- Then the leveled surface can be moistened with water and further leveled using a spatula.
- After the clay has completely hardened, it will become dense and you can safely walk on it.
2. can be carried out in two ways - throwing a wet mixture onto the walls or pouring it into formwork attached to a finished main or frame wall.
- On the main wall, the clay mortar is applied between the installed beacons using a trowel or thrown on by hand and leveled with a rule.
- Another option is to sketch the mixture on the wall on which the shingles are fixed. But in this case it will not be possible to lay a thick layer. A clay pile of no more than 30 mm can be supported on shingles.
- After the clay-sawdust layer has dried, it is leveled with sand-cement mortar and then with plaster.
3. The third option for insulating walls with a wet mass is to lay it in formwork installed along the main walls, or fixed on both sides to frame posts.
- Formwork panels are made from boards 1000 mm high. They are fixed on both sides of the frame posts or parallel to the main wall, at a distance of 200÷250 mm from it.
- The formwork is laid sawdust-clay mixtures with careful compaction. After this, the composition is given time to dry.
- After the mixture has dried, the formwork is removed and raised higher, where it is secured again in the same way.
- The filling process is repeated in the same order until the top of the wall is reached.
- Since there will be openings on top between the frame beam or wall and the ceiling that cannot be filled using this technology, you will have to make mats of the required size, install and fix them with clay mortar on top of the finished lower sections of the walls.
Insulation of walls and ceilings with clay-sawdust mats
Sawdust-clay mats are laid in the same way as mats of other insulating materials.
- The diagram looks like this:
1 – Attic floor beams.
2 – Ceiling.
3 – Subfloor of the attic floor.
4 – Glassine is placed on the bottom and top of the insulation.
5 – Sawdust-clay plate.
6 – Finished attic floor boards.
- The preparation of floor boards is carried out in the same way as when pouring clay mass.
- Next, the finished slabs are laid on the covered surface. If large gaps remain between the floor beams and the mats, they will have to be filled with a damp mass of clay and sawdust.
- To insulate main walls, a sheathing made of a block having the size of the mat thickness (if it is not more than 100 mm) is attached to them. The distance between the sheathing bars should be equal to the width of the mat. Installed slabs It will be most convenient to fix it with slats, nailing them onto the sheathing bars.
- In the event that insulation is carried out in a cold region, where average winter temperatures reach minus 25 ÷ 30 degrees, insulation boards must be at least 300 ÷ 400 mm thick. Such slabs, or rather, blocks, are mounted on a clay-sand mortar, according to the principle of brickwork.
- If insulation is carried out frame walls, then it is necessary to provide for the installation of two rows of bars or boards with a thickness of at least 70 ÷ 80 mm. If two bars are installed that determine the thickness of the wall of the house, then sawdust-clay the blocks will be stacked between them. To ensure that the blocks fit tightly together in the places where the frame bars are installed, square cutouts are made in their corners, repeating the shapes and dimensions of the block.
- When main walls are insulated, it is recommended to make masonry from blocks at a distance of 70 ÷ 100 mm from the wall.
- After the insulation layer has been raised by 800 ÷ 1000 mm, it is recommended to make a backfill of expanded clay between it and the wall.
- Then the insulating wall rises another 700 ÷ 1000 mm, backfilling is done again - and so on until the very top of the wall.
- Upon completion of insulation, the walls must be cement or clay mortar.
Sawdust with cement
If instead of clay, cement is chosen as a “partner” for sawdust, then the process of making, applying or laying the mixture is not much different from working with sawdust-clay solution, but the components and proportions are slightly changed.
So, in this case, in addition to cement and sawdust, lime is required. The components are taken in a ratio of 1:10:1. Additionally, it can be added to the mixture as an antiseptic. copper sulfate or boric acid. These components will require approximately 50 g per 50 kg of mixture. Each portion of the mass will require from 5 to 10 liters of water, depending on the method of insulation.
If all ingredients are available, mix the mixture:
- All ingredients are poured into a container prepared for mixing and mixed dry using a hoe until smooth.
- Antiseptics are added last, and after that the mixture is immediately filled with water and mixed. It will be better if the antiseptic components are diluted in water poured into the mixture - then they will be absorbed into the sawdust faster.
- The mixed mixture must be checked for readiness. This is done like this: the mixture is taken into the palm of your hand and squeezed. If water does not ooze from the lump and it does not crumble, then the composition is ready for the manufacture of slabs, for laying in formwork or for spreading over the surface of the attic floor.
On the attic floor, just as in the case of clay, glassine is placed under the mixture being laid out, but in this case it can be replaced with plastic film.
After laying the wet insulation is completed, it is left to harden.
Insulation with bulk material
Insulation with dry sawdust is quite simple. Treated and dried sawdust is simply poured onto the attic floor. The thickness of their layer varies depending on winter and summer temperatures region. More precisely, this parameter can be found in the table located at the beginning of the article.
Sawdust for insulation is used dry or in the form of sawdust granules - pellets.
They are made from fine sawdust with the addition of an antiseptic, fire retardant and carboxymethylcellulose glue. The finished granules are practically non-flammable and do not harbor rodents. It should be noted that they are more convenient and practical for insulating floors than just sawdust, since they do not shrink and retain heat well.
- The granules are poured onto the prepared surface - cracks The boards are coated with a clay-lime composition, or the subfloor of the ceiling is covered with glassine.
- The granules are distributed in an even layer between the floor beams. If a layer of greater thickness is required, then sides are installed along the perimeter of the attic, with a height equal to the required thickness of the backfill layer - then the granules are laid to their top.
- If you plan to make a floor in the attic from a plank covering laid on top of insulation, then additional sheathing is fixed to the floor beams, that is, they are raised in height.
Video: insulating the attic with dry sawdust
Dry sawdust or granules are also used to insulate the walls, filling them inside. If ordinary sawdust is used, then it must be well treated with antiseptics. In addition, in order to make them heavier but maintain their low thermal conductivity, sawdust is sometimes mixed with slag. Walls built and insulated in this way reliably protect the house from the penetration of cold and summer heat.
- The insulation is backfilled as the main walls are raised by 700 ÷ 1000 mm, with obligatory, but not excessively strong, tamping for compaction.
- After backfilling and compaction, the walls are again raised to a certain height, and so the process continues until the entire required height has been reached.
⃰ ⃰ ⃰ ⃰ ⃰
Conclusion:
With due pre-treatment both the sawdust itself and the compositions made using them are excellent thermal insulator, which is quite capable of replacing any of modern materials. Using them, you can be 100% sure that none of your household will develop allergies or other diseases associated with the release of toxic substances, which is sometimes the problem with some synthetic insulation materials.
