Among the fans indoor plants spathiphyllum is especially popular, primarily due to its beauty.
Few people will be indifferent to dark green shiny leaves and unusually delicate white flowers.
An important role is also played by the legend that it helps women find their happiness and protects the home from adversity and unrest.
But for a beautiful fairy tale to come true, at least the flower must be in comfortable conditions, look beautiful and well-groomed, but not everyone succeeds. What is the reason?
Possible problems
Spathiphyllum provided proper care quite unpretentious, child tropical forests The South American continent tolerates shade well, gets sick infrequently, and blooms most of the year.
But often experienced flower growers face some difficulties in growing it.
Sometimes, seemingly for no reason, the leaves of the spathiphyllum wither, turn black and yellow, the tips dry out, or become covered with yellow spots and are lost forever.
In the photo there is a spathiphyllum whose leaves turn black
Some people complain that they can’t wait to bloom, or that the flowers turn green, darken and fall off. Sometimes a plant is attacked by pests or an unknown disease suddenly appears.
What do these troubles mean when you should worry about how to cope on your own instead of dealing with pests?
There are many problems that await amateurs, but they are not difficult to solve; the main thing is to understand the issue thoroughly and then caring for the plant will not cause excessive trouble and will only bring pleasure and joy.
With proper care, there will be no problems:
Doesn't bloom, doesn't smell, doesn't make you happy...
The flowers of the plant are beautiful and touching, it is not without reason that it is called the female flower, but some of its owners complain that they cannot wait for them to bloom. Why doesn’t spathiphyllum bloom, but only produce leaves?
It blooms quite actively: several times a year, usually this period covers the entire spring, and sometimes until autumn, owners can enjoy its luxurious appearance. This period can also increase, it all depends on age, proper lighting, care.
Lack of flowering is more often observed for several reasons:
- spacious pot;
- excessive watering;
- lack of nutrition;
- incorrect placement.
The plant will not bloom in such a large pot.
How to make a fussy flower bloom?
The solution to the problem lies on several levels:
- The plant will bloom only when the entire cavity of the pot will be filled with roots, that is, it will become cramped for him. Therefore, it is not advisable to replant it again, but if you had to do this, then you need to choose a slightly larger container.
- If the soil is regularly flooded, and diseased leaves have already appeared, this interferes with the plant’s normal nutrition and respiration, and it has no time for flowers. In this situation, the dry ends are cut off and the soil is dried. It is necessary to decide on watering; it is important to use it only when top layer the soil will dry out. This rule must be followed regularly, the soil in the pot must be loosened, the green mass must be sprayed, the water for irrigation must be enriched with Zircon or Energen added.
- It is important to choose the right place for the flower– partial shade, without drafts and noticeable temperature changes. The most preferable option is windows facing east.
- To activate vital forces and cause flowering, first stop watering for a while, slightly reduce the temperature, to a maximum of 16 degrees, and then return to normal conditions.
- During moments of active growth, spathiphyllum requires feeding once every 2 weeks. Moreover, nitrogen is added with caution, otherwise, apart from an increase in green mass, no other changes should be expected. But potassium and phosphorus come in handy here.
- To wake up the sloth, you can rub him a little, pull the leaves.
- You can provoke another flowering cutting off a peduncle with a knife, at the very base.
What can be done if spathiphyllum does not bloom:
Why do the leaves turn yellow and what to do?
Sometimes even the most caring owners of spathiphyllum have yellow leaves. At first, small spots appear at the edges, then they increase, spread over the entire surface of the leaf and it gradually dies.
Dry air and lack of watering - the result on the leaves
This does not always indicate a plant disease. When old leaves turn yellow and are lost, the flower simply gets rid of shoots that have outlived their usefulness to give younger ones the opportunity to develop.
When, along with old leaves, young leaves also undergo changes, then the following factors are most likely present:
- Perhaps the flower is standing directly in direct sunlight, then this burn spots, in this case it is necessary to remove them where they will not be too open to light.
- When a flower begins to wither, the first thing you need to do is check the presence of insects.
- The reason may also be overdrying of the earth coma.
- Sometimes the reason is that the flower, entering the flowering phase, All nutrients directs the process of reproduction. Or he for a long time bloomed profusely, and saves energy for restoration. In both cases it must be treated with special attention and feed.
- It is possible the flowerpot became too small for him, then the only way out is to transplant into a larger container.
- Causes color change and increased air dryness. A native of the tropics loves moisture very much, so it is necessary to create for him similar conditions, and spray it daily.
- Yellow spots form when cold water is used for irrigation.
- If the spathiphyllum brought from the store turns yellow, then it urgently needs to be transplanted, usually such a substrate is of insufficient quality and does not contain the necessary components. Fasting manifests itself in spots, and then it is necessary to compensate for the lack of boron, magnesium, phosphorus, calcium and nitrogen.
- Green veins on a yellow background indicate the presence of chlorosis. Here the only measure to get rid of infection is.
If you begin to eliminate the causes in time, it is easy to restore the flower and return to its former beauty.
The first thing to do is cut off the damaged leaves to prevent the spathiphyllum from wasting nutrients.
Then, lightly digging up the soil in the pot, carefully examine the roots. When they are healthy, they are light and slightly greenish, which are closer to the stem.
But to be sure, it is better to replace the soil, remove rotten areas, and treat with a fungicide as a preventive measure against diseases. Plant the plant in new soil, preferably enriched with fertilizer.
The hostess should know information about life cycle your ward, separate the shoots from the mother bush in a timely manner, feed it in a timely manner, provide humidity and warmth, then the leaves will not change their color.
Blackening of leaves, what can be done?
Sometimes spathiphyllum leaves turn black, often the reason lies in excessive watering.
Due to oversaturation of moisture, the roots lack oxygen, and the plant reacts by darkening the tips of the leaves.
If the plant is accidentally flooded once, a newspaper or several paper napkins will help correct the situation - just blot the soil and the moisture will go away.
But if the situation repeats itself often, and the changes have affected the leaves, on the tips of which black spots have already appeared, then the bush will have to be replanted, replacing the soil.
The same reaction can be in response to a combination of unfavorable conditions: constant drafts and low temperatures, and if spathiphyllum is in such a situation for a long time, then the tips of unblown leaves also turn black.
Blackening of the leaves sometimes indicates root rot that has affected the lower part of the plant, which appears as a result of the above unfavorable conditions, especially if it is exposed to such influence for a long time.
This is very dangerous for the plant; if timely measures are not taken, it will simply die. In this case, it is necessary to remove the flower from the ground and carefully examine the root system.
Those areas that have rotted are mercilessly removed, the remaining parts are first washed in potassium permanganate, then dipped in a growth stimulator, then treated with crushed activated carbon. The flower is replanted, and then the watering rules are strictly observed.
Blackening of the tips of the leaves may indicate an imbalance in nutrition: a lack of phosphorus and nitrogen in the soil; by the way, this is also a sign of excess fertilizer. The roots receive a chemical burn and cease to function at full capacity.
To avoid these situations, it is necessary to use complex fertilizers. all year round If you strictly adhere to the instructions, then there will be no problems.
What to do if the leaves dry out and what is the reason?
With the onset of cold weather and the heating devices are turned on, the air in the room becomes much drier and the leaves of the spathiphyllum often begin to dry out.
Leaves dry out - look for the cause in excessive dry air
This happens because the pots are usually placed on the windowsill, and the radiators located under them significantly dry out the air.
This can happen during hot, dry summers when the sun's rays hit the leaves and cause burns, resulting in the formation of brown spots.
Now it’s time to start fighting dry air; daily spraying does not always help, so additional measures must be taken:
- You can place small bowls with water near the flowerpots, and place moss on the ground; it will maintain humidity without interfering with the plant’s breathing;
- spread sand or expanded clay in a tray, moisten them a little and place a flower pot there;
- You can buy special humidifiers in the store; they are simply soaked in water and placed on the ground;
- once a week, in addition to spraying, the plant needs to be given a warm shower, only the ground must be carefully covered with film.
Some people make the mistake of increasing the intensity of watering. But this measure is unjustified; moreover, it is harmful and can cause root rot.
A low-quality substrate purchased from a store can cause the leaves to dry out. This may be a consequence of the transplant, but this is not surprising: root system spathiphyllum is weak, and such a procedure is stressful for the plant.
Flowers take on a greenish tint
Spathiphyllum flowers turn green for two reasons:
- Firstly, some varieties have this feature.
- Secondly, this natural state flower When the white spathe covering the ear changes color, it gives a sign that flowering is coming to an end. If it turns green, you can cut off the peduncle, then your energy will not be wasted, and soon it will begin to fill the buds again.
In their absence, the root system is carefully examined; if there are no changes there, then the flower does not have enough nutrition for a full growing season; complex fertilizers will help here.
This plant is absolutely healthy
The flower is falling out of... the trunk
Sometimes the following picture emerges: the spathiphyllum seems to be falling apart, the leaves have fallen and withered, and even lost turgor, what is the reason?
You need to remember how long ago the owner watered his pupil; maybe he forgot to do it, and this is a manifestation of a lack of moisture in the soil.
This spathiphyllum is very thirsty...
If everything is normal, then most likely the problem is in the roots, they are not working properly and the ground part does not have enough power.
Darkened areas are removed; most likely, there will be a lot of them, since the plant would not react so radically with minor damage.
It happens that almost all the roots are covered by the process of rotting, then they will have to be removed, leaving the undamaged part. Treat with antiseptics and place in water.
In case of severe damage, spathiphyllum can be saved by immersing it almost completely in liquid, leaving only the ends of the leaves at the top.
In its homeland, it often grows in swamps and in such an environment it will be able to recover and gain strength faster, provided that it is not infected with the disease.
Leaf deformation
When the leaves of a flower change their shape, become narrow and elongated, then most likely the plant does not have enough light.
Although the sun's rays are dangerous for spathiphyllum, it is also not happy with complete darkness. Diffused lighting will be optimal, then he will feel great.
The plant's leaves are twisting - this is not without reason
Pests and diseases - there is always this risk
Not a single plant is immune from attack, even with good care spathiphyllum may be attacked by uninvited guests:
Fighting scale insects:
If you take into account all the needs of the plant, provide it with proper care, competent agricultural technology and sufficient lighting, then there will be no problems with it, and this attractive flower will delight its owner for many years.
Thanks to these tips, my spathiphyllum makes me happy with its flowers!
Gave me something beautiful indoor flower Spathiphyllum, or simply “women’s happiness.” This is a beauty with large white flowers. But after a month, the tips of its leaves turned black and dried out, and the flowers withered.
We create heavenly conditions at home
This indoor flower came to us from tropical rainforests, which means that the conditions for its maintenance should be as close as possible to natural ones. How to do this?
Temperature - high
The optimal room temperature should be between +20°C and +25°C. In winter, a slight drop in temperature is allowed, but a long stay in a room where it is below 16°C leads to the death of the flower.
Air humidity - high
Dry air has the most detrimental effect on the plant. Therefore, it needs spraying, especially on hot summer days and in heating season when radiators lead to dry air in the room.
Water for spraying must be at room temperature, and make sure that it only gets on the leaves. It is ideal if you have a humidifier at home.
Watering - frequent
The flower needs regular watering. Drying out the soil has a detrimental effect on the root system of Spathiphyllum and leads to yellowing and death of the leaves.
Water for irrigation must first be left for 12 hours and then softened. The easiest way to use for these purposes is citric acid: A few crystals are enough for 1 liter of water.
It is advisable to place the flower pot in a tray with pebbles, and make sure that the pebbles are constantly wet. This will create the necessary microclimate around the flower.
Lighting - bright
Spathiphyllum requires good lighting, but it should be shaded from direct sunlight. The flower feels best on windowsills with east and west orientation, but the plant will not bloom on a north window.
How to get Spathiphyllum to bloom
My friends, with whom I shared the bushes of the plant, complain that their favorites do not bloom, unlike mine. The reasons why “female happiness” does not bloom may be the following:
The flowers have a delicate white-green color and an elongated spindle-shaped shape.
- The pot is too spacious. Spathiphyllum, as a rule, begins to throw out flower stalks after the roots have entwined the entire pot. So be patient.
- The plant is old. With age, the flower reduces the production of peduncles, or even stops flowering altogether. In this case, the bush should be divided into several parts and each one should be transplanted into separate pots.
- Lack or excess of minerals. Fertilizers with a high nitrogen content provoke increased leaf growth, thereby slowing down flowering. But potash fertilizers stimulate the formation of flowers. When choosing a complex mineral fertilizer, pay attention to percentage microelements: potassium should be 2 times more than nitrogen.
Stress is good for flowering
You can achieve abundant flowering in the following way: keep the flower in a room with a temperature of about +12°C for 10 days. Water minimally during this time. Then place Spathiphyllum in a well-lit place and apply fertilizer. A month later the plant blooms. Tested more than once!
If the plant dies: diseases and pests
A plant doesn't just happen; everything happens for a reason. Carefully consider your pet and choose your option:
Principles of transplantation and propagation
If you buy ready soil V flower shop, the package should say “slightly acidic.” Will do universal primer for the araceae family.
Step-by-step steps for transplantation
- Water the flower with water and carefully remove the lump of earth along with the roots from the old pot.
- Use your fingers to shake the soil from the roots
- Cut off dried leaves and flower stalks - this is done so that the plant “rests” and does not waste energy on them.
- Place at the bottom of the pot thin layer expanded clay, and on top of 3-4 centimeters of soil.
- Place the flower with straightened rhizomes and cover it with soil a couple of centimeters above the roots, tamping it down slightly.
- Water the plant thoroughly to compact the soil.
- Spray the leaves with water from a spray bottle. Do this daily for 2 weeks.
- That's all. Spathiphyllum will definitely respond to proper care and timely replanting with the glossy beauty of its leaves and lush flowering.
- You can always find more useful articles, interesting videos and tests on our website.
“Women's happiness” or Spathiphyllum is a flowering indoor plant that is a real decoration of the home.
The beautifully shaped leaves and white calla-like flowers look very attractive. But it happens that, despite all the efforts, the flower does not want to bloom. It would seem that all the rules of care are followed, so why doesn’t it bloom?
There may be several reasons for this. But besides the lack of flowering, there may be other problems, for example, the foliage dries and turns black. Let's figure out why this can happen and how we can help the plant so that it is always healthy and pleases us with green foliage and beautiful flowers.
All plants in indoor floriculture came from wildlife. Very often, when exploring new territories, pioneers brought seeds or seedlings of exotic flowers.
Many of them became the ancestors of today's indoor plants. In order for them to grow well and delight with beautiful flowers, they need certain conditions, similar to natural ones.
Spathiphyllum is no exception. To understand why spathiphyllum does not bloom, why its foliage turns black and dries, you need to understand what conditions this plant needs and where it came from in people’s homes.
Growing spathiphyllum: soil, light, watering
Spathiphyllum natural habitat:
- South America
- Central America
- Philippines
- New Guinea
- Solomon Islands
Most often, most types of spathiphyllum exist in the humid tropics with alternating dry and wet seasons.
In warm tropical climates, spathiphyllum grows as an evergreen perennial. There are both root forms and epiphytes.
Lovers indoor flowers Spathiphyllum attracts with its unusual inflorescence, which is covered with a beautiful petal - a white blanket.
Considering that most wild species grow in high temperatures of a tropical climate, the plant needs enough high temperature air.
It is best if the room is not colder + 22 + 23 degrees. IN winter time reduction can be allowed temperature regime up to + 18 degrees.
When watering the plant, adhere to the following rules:
- Watering the plant is also dependent on seasonal conditions. IN warm time throughout the year it must be watered frequently and abundantly, winter period watering is moderate, but without drying out the earthen coma.
- The optimal frequency of watering in summer is once every three days, in winter - once every 7-8 days. Also, from spring to autumn, the plant needs feeding once every two weeks.
- Spathiphyllum responds well to sprinkling with warm, settled water. In summer, it is advisable to do this three to seven times a week.
- The plant does not like drafty rooms and direct solar lighting, although he has a great need for light. It is best to choose south-east and south-west windows, and south side create artificial shading.
The best soil for spathiphyllum- This is humus soil with a small addition of coniferous bark, charcoal, and brick chips. There must be a drainage layer at the bottom of the pot.
If, when growing spathiphyllum, all necessary conditions, then from mid-spring until the very end of summer the plant will be covered with numerous flowers. The older and larger the flower, the more flowers it produces. But sometimes it happens that spathiphyllum does not bloom. It is necessary to understand what reasons prevent flowering and how to eliminate them.
Why doesn't spathiphyllum bloom in the room?
It often happens that spathiphyllum looks very good in a pot and has numerous beautiful leaves, but does not bloom. The most likely reason is an excess of organic matter and nitrogen fertilizers.
Here, immediate replanting of the plant with partial replacement or addition of new soil, and then following the feeding regime, can help.
When growing spathiphyllum, it is best to adhere to the rule - it is better not to overfeed than to overfeed. Although a lack of fertilizer can also disrupt flowering. Additional application of a phosphorus-potassium mixture will be required at the beginning of the period and nitrogen fertilizers at the end of flowering.
The next reason for the lack of flowers is growing the plant at low temperatures for a long period. Moving the pot to a warmer room will encourage flowers to appear.
Errors in lighting conditions may cause a delay in the appearance of colors. In winter, the need for continuous lighting is greater than in summer.
In winter, the plant should be kept in brighter light. sunlight than in spring and summer. Direct summer sun causes leaf damage and impaired flowering.
Many gardeners make the mistake of transplanting spathiphyllum into a pot that is too spacious.
Until the root system has taken over the entire space inside the pot, it should not be replanted. If the transplant does occur, then it is better to return the flower to a tighter pot.
Spathiphyllum reacts sharply to irrigation errors. It can stop blooming either with a lack or excess of moisture.
By the blackened and dried tips of the leaves, you can determine that the plant is suffering from excess moisture. If the soil has dried out and the leaves have become limp and lost their elasticity, then you can restore the plant by placing the pot in a bucket of water.
How to make a plant bloom
Sometimes, in order to “make” spathiphyllum bloom, you can give it a little shock. For example, place it in a very cool room for two weeks, where the temperature is no higher than +12 degrees. After this, bring it into a warm place, feed it and wait for the flowers to appear.
Poor development and lack of flowers can be caused by various diseases and pests.
Spathiphyllum is most often damaged:
- scale insects
- spider mite
- thrips
It is worth treating the flower and ridding it of pests in order to cause flowering. This can be done by treating it with special preparations according to the instructions. Timely removal of old flowers also promotes the appearance of new buds.
If this indoor plant is provided good conditions existence and proper care, then women’s happiness, in response to care, will bloom annually and delight the hostess with beautiful flowers.
Video on how to make spathiphyllum bloom:
The name "spathiphyllum" comes from two Greek words: "spata" - bedspread and "phyllum" - leaf. It's beautiful tropical plant also called the “white sail”, thanks to its unusual flowers, similar to sails. There are many varieties of this unpretentious, shade-tolerant plant, differing in size, shape and size of the bedspread and intensity of aroma. About 45 species of spathiphyllum are known. IN room conditions The most commonly grown plants are Spathiphyllum profusely flowering and Spathiphyllum Wallis.
Spathiphyllum - white sail. © Kalendarz rolnikow
Botanical description of the plant
Spathiphyllum, or Spathiphyllum (Spathiphyllum) - genus perennial plants from the aroid family ( Araceae), some representatives are popular indoor plants. The homeland of spathiphyllum is South America, East Asia, Polynesia.
Spathiphyllum has no stem - the basal leaves form a bunch directly from the soil. The rhizome is short. The leaves are oval or lanceolate, with a clearly visible midrib. The lateral veins are pressed into the upper side of the leaf blade. The petiole at the base expands into the vagina.
The inflorescence of spathiphyllum is formed in the shape of a cob, on a long stalk, with a veil at the base. The white blanket quickly turns green after flowering.
Features of growing spathiphyllum - briefly
Bloom: depending on care, either once a year (in spring), or twice a year - in spring and autumn-winter.
Height: The plant usually develops quickly.
Light: diffused, without direct sunlight, can grow in partial shade.
Temperature: in the spring-summer period it prefers temperatures within +22...+23°C, not lower than +18°C. IN autumn-winter period the optimal temperature is not lower than +16°C, as this inhibits the development of the plant.
Watering spathiphyllum: in the spring-summer period and during flowering it is abundant; between waterings the top layer should dry out. In autumn-winter, watering is moderate. When watering, the substrate should not dry out, but should not be excessively waterlogged.
Humidity: high, spraying is useful. To increase humidity, you can place the pot with the plant on a tray with damp expanded clay, moss or other porous material.
Feeding spathiphyllum: from March to September and during flowering, complete mineral fertilizer of low concentration (1-1.5 g per liter of water).
Rest period: from October to January the temperature is not lower than +16°C, moderate watering.
Spathiphyllum transplant: in the spring, as needed, when the roots fill the pot.
Reproduction: cuttings and division of rhizomes.
Caring for spathiphyllum at home
Spathiphyllum can grow in diffused light and in partial shade. In the shade, spathiphyllum leaves become dark green, the leaf may take on a more elongated shape, flowering will become rare or stop.
If you find these signs, then the plant does not have enough lighting. The plant should be protected from direct sunlight; keep this in mind when placing the plant on south-facing windows. Northern windows are well suited for spathiphyllum, but on southern windows spathiphyllum blooms more abundantly and longer and is much larger in size.
Spathiphyllum is a heat-loving plant; in spring and summer it prefers temperatures within +22...+23°C, not lower than +18°C. In the autumn-winter period, the optimal temperature is not lower than +16°C, as this inhibits the development of the plant. Temperatures below +10°C are critical, as at this temperature plants rot and may die. Spathiphyllums do not tolerate drafts.
Watering
Spathiphyllum needs to be watered all year round. During flowering, in spring and summer, abundant watering is required, possibly from a tray, but the top layer of soil should dry out between waterings. In winter, watering is moderate. The earth ball should not be allowed to dry out; at the same time, stagnation of water in the pot can be detrimental to the plant.
For watering and spraying, use only settled water (it must stand for at least 12 hours). Drooping spathiphyllum leaves indicate that it lacks moisture. Excessive watering causes dark spots to appear on the leaves.
Humidity
All spathiphyllums love high humidity. Spraying with soft water, a tray with damp moss or sand, the atmosphere of the aquarium, a warm shower from time to time - all this has a beneficial effect on the growth of spathiphyllums - natives of humid climates. It is no coincidence that the tips of their leaves are elongated into a sharp dropper and droop down: this is how the leaves get rid of excessive flows of tropical downpours.
In the dry air conditions of most rooms, even with timely spraying (2 times a day), drying of the leaf tips is observed. When the spathiphyllum blooms, it is necessary to spray it carefully so that water does not get on the cover and the cob.
From October to January the plant has a dormant period, but if it is provided with sufficient air humidity, spathiphyllum can bloom in winter.
Feeding spathiphyllum
During the active growing season (from March to September), spathiphyllums are fed with low concentration complete mineral fertilizer (1-1.5 g per liter of water). You can feed it with a special fertilizer for indoor plants that does not contain lime, for example, “Azalea”, “Flower”, etc.
Alternate feeding with solutions gives good results. mineral fertilizers and fresh mullein, diluted in a ratio of 1:15 or 1:20. After fertilizing and before fertilizing, the plants are watered generously with water at room temperature. If spathiphyllum blooms in winter, then it is fed with the same fertilizers after 3-4 weeks. The appearance of brown spots on the leaves indicates an excess of nutrients.
Transplantation and substrate
The signal for replanting is the roots, which have filled the entire volume of the pot with the plant. It is better to replant in the spring. Spathiphyllum is sensitive to root damage; replant carefully.
The soil for replanting is slightly acidic (pH - 5-6.5). Excess moisture harms the plant, so the soil must be loose so that excess moisture can flow freely into the pan. Spathiphyllums feel quite good in ordinary humus, to which you need to add brick chips and pieces of charcoal. A mixture of equal parts of leaf and turf soil, humus, peat and river sand is suitable.
You can use a ready-made substrate for aroids by adding pieces of charcoal to it. Good drainage is necessary. The pot for spathiphyllum is chosen a little larger than the previous one, too big pot will slow down flowering. It is better to spill the soil with a dark pink hot solution of potassium permanganate.
After transplantation, plants need warmth, moderate watering, and frequent spraying, all of which contribute to rapid rooting. Plants take root better if greenhouse conditions are created for them for a while (cover transparent material), but do not forget to ventilate them.
Spathiphyllum wallisii. © Flower Lady Reproduction of spathiphyllums
Spathiphyllums are propagated by division or apical cuttings, less often - seeds.
Rooted plants are planted in 9-centimeter pots. The composition of the soil is as follows: leaf - 1 tsp, peat - 1 tsp, turf - 1/2 tsp, sand - 1/2 tsp. During transplantation and handling, if possible, damage to the roots should be avoided, as plants easily wither. After transplantation, abundant watering and spraying are necessary.
Propagation by dividing the bush is best done in the spring when replanting.
When propagated by cuttings, the shortened stem of spathiphyllum begins to branch: new growth points are formed, young leaves unfold in several places. If you do not have the task of creating a large thicket, the bush can be divided so that each fragment retains a growing point and (if possible) roots. However, the roots may grow a little later.
Spathiphyllum divisions are planted in 12-15 cm pots in a special “aroid” mixture consisting of humus, unsifted leaf soil, peat and sand (1:1:1:0.5). Add 10 g of ammonium nitrate and 5 g of superphosphate and potassium nitrate to a bucket of such a substance. In addition, add pieces broken bricks, tree bark and coal, dry mullein.
You can use a substat of another composition: leaf, coniferous soil, humus, peat, sand (2:2:2:2:1) or leaf, peat, coniferous, humus soil, sand (2:4:1:1:1) With the addition of pieces of charcoal.
Spathiphyllum, or Spathiphyllum (lat. Spathiphyllum). © Joe Judd Types of Spathiphyllum
Genus Spathiphyllum ( Spathiphyllum), according to the latest data, unites 45 species of perennial stemless plants with short rhizomes of the araceae family, some of them are very decorative. Spathiphyllums are common in tropical America, the Philippine Islands, and tropical rainforests in Venezuela, Colombia, Guiana, and Brazil.
Spathiphyllum heliconifolia(Spathiphyllum heliconiifolium). Homeland - tropical rainforests of Brazil. Plants up to 1 m tall. The leaves are oblong-elliptical, 35-50 cm long and 20-25 cm wide, shortly pointed, glossy, dark green, wavy at the edges. Petiole 75-90 cm long, vaginal from the base (5-9 cm long). The inflorescence is a spadix, 8-10 cm long, white, then darkening to almost black. The spathe is oval, almost twice as long as the cob, 15 cm long and 10 cm wide. Valuable ornamental plant, suitable for growing indoors.
Spathiphyllum cannofolia(Spathiphyllum cannifolium). Homeland: Venezuela, Guiana, Thailand. A plant with large, bright green, ovate leaves similar to canna leaves. White and green blanket with very fragrant flowers on a yellowish-green cob. A wonderful indoor plant.
Spathiphyllum spoon-shaped(Spathiphyllum cochlearispathum). Homeland - Brazil. This is a large plant up to 1 m high, with oblong-elliptical leaves. The length of the leaves is 30-40 cm, width is 15-20 cm. The leaf blade is dark green, glossy, wavy at the edges, supported by a long (up to 50-70 cm), strong petiole. Inflorescence spadix, white. The bedspread is oval, long.
Spathiphyllum profusely blooming(Spathiphyllum floribundum). Homeland: Colombia. The plant is medium-sized, up to 50 cm tall, the leaves are oval-lanceolate, 20-25 cm long, 9-12 cm wide. The number of leaves can be more than 40. The spathe is white. Blooms profusely and for a long time. Flower buds are laid in the axils of healthy leaves, on which the harvest of next year's inflorescences depends.
In the USA, the variety Mauna Loa was obtained from Spathiphyllum profusely flowering. A plant with a pure white broadly lanceolate or broadly elliptical, gracefully concave spathe 10-12.5 cm long and up to 5-6 cm wide. A creeping stem with extremely short internodes, most often underground. Petioles 10-15 cm long, leaf blade 15-20 cm long, 5-6 cm wide, bright green, oblong-lanceolate or oblong-elliptic, long-pointed at the apex (tip up to 1.5 cm). Peduncle up to 25 cm long, flowers collected in a spadix 3-5 cm long. on a very short leg. ‘Mauna Loa’ is an excellent cut and potted plant(blooms throughout the year), the inflorescence lasts for more than a month when cut.
Spathiphyllum charming(Spathiphyllum blandum). Homeland - tropical America. A plant with dark green, elongated lanceolate leaves with an extended tip. The petioles are long and strong. The inflorescence is a spadix, surrounded by a greenish-white blanket, which is shaped like a small flag. Therefore, the popular name of this flower is flagolite. It blooms from April to June and has a large number of inflorescences.
Spathiphyllum Wallis(Spathiphyllum wallisii). Homeland - tropical rainforests of Colombia. A plant 20 to 30 cm high with a short rhizome and a rosette of dark green oblong-lanceolate graceful leaves. The cob is white, the spathe is narrow, three times as long as the cob, at first pure white, then turning green. Flowering is abundant and long lasting. The plant is unpretentious and shade-tolerant. Grows well indoors.
Spathiphyllum floribundum. © Snapshooter46 Diseases and pests of spathiphyllum
If the air around the plant is dry and watering is insufficient, spathiphyllum can be affected by pests - aphids, scale insects and spider mites.
Shchitovka or shield aphid gets its name from the waxy shield that covers the body of the adult pest. At first, when young, the scale insect is hardly noticeable, but quickly multiplies, covering the stems and leaves dark spots. Adults are motionless and sit under shields, from under which larvae crawl out and spread throughout the plant.
At this time, they are destroyed by spraying with a soap-tobacco solution, to which you can add a little kerosene or denatured alcohol. Adult pests along with their scutes are removed with a damp swab, but you still need to treat the entire plant with an insecticide or soap solution to remove larvae.
Aphid – small insect may be green, gray or black in color. It settles on the underside of the leaf and feeds on plant sap, which leads to the leaves drying out and curling. Reproduces quickly. It is destroyed by ready-made preparations that are sold in stores or by solutions of nicotine sulfate in water and soap in a ratio of 1 g. nicotine - sulfate per 1 liter of soapy water.
After treating the plant a day later, the spathiphyllum should be washed thoroughly, covering the soil with polyethylene. If necessary, repeat the treatment.
To prevent spathiphyllum from being affected by pests (scale insects and aphids), it is enough to regularly wash or wipe the leaves with a sponge and water. When “bathing” spathiphyllum, do not forget to cover the soil in the pot with film.
Spider mite- a very small red spider. Appears on the underside of leaves and envelops them in thin white cobwebs. They are destroyed by spraying and washing the leaves, especially on the underside, with water, weak tobacco infusion with soap, pollination (on fresh air, outside rooms) with ground sulfur or the plant is treated with ready-made systemic insecticides. After treating the plant, 2-3 hours later the leaves should be washed with warm water.
Spathiphyllum leaf tips dry out, although regular spraying of the flower and watering. In addition, dry brownish-yellow spots appear on some leaves, similar to burns, although direct sunlight does not fall on the flower.
Spathiphyllum does not bloom
Cause. Spathiphyllum blooms when the roots fill the entire pot. That is, he loves cramped and low pots. And for abundant flowering, spathiphyllum must be kept in the cold for 2 weeks at a temperature of +9°...+12°C so that it can “rest.”
The leaves of spathiphyllum turn black around the edges and dry out., then they die completely, sometimes young, not yet untwisted leaves dry out
Cause. Either you flood the plant, or you don’t add enough air and dry air, or it lacks nitrogen or phosphorus. In the latter case, feed with nitrogen-potassium-phosphorus fertilizer.
Spathiphyllum does not grow
Cause. Poor growth can be caused by excessive light and overwatering.
We have several spathiphyllums growing at home - extraordinary beauty! Indeed, the plant is quite unpretentious. The main thing, probably, that you need to remember is abundant watering and frequent spraying of the leaves! We wish you success and look forward to your advice!
Spathiphyllum is considered a very common and favorite plant. It can be seen in almost every home. In common parlance, the flower is called “women’s happiness.” According to popular belief, it brings happiness to every woman’s home. Obviously, for this reason, many women have such a flower and wait impatiently for it to bloom. According to legends, with the appearance of flowers on the spathiphyllum, the mistress of the house is considered a happy woman. What should those women do if their plant does not bloom, and how can they find out why? What to do to finally make the spathiphyllum bloom?
Spathiphyllum and its varieties
This flower is considered evergreens and belongs to the Araceae family. Exists almost 45 species of spathiphyllum. Some species can grow small, while others reach large sizes. Those species that most often grow at home grow to a maximum height of 40 cm.
The flower has a medium-sized stem on which there are smooth, round, bright green leaves. The flowers of the plant look like white and cream color, surrounded by a white or greenish petal. This single petal on a thin stem looks very delicate. His appearance very feminine, which is why it received the name spathiphyllum, which translated from Greek means “bedspread” and “leaf”. If you look closely at the inflorescence, it really resembles an elegant white blanket.
The most popular for growing at home There are several types considered:
- charming;
- profusely flowering;
- spoon-shaped;
- cannofolia.
The flower is easy to care for and blooms only twice a year. This usually happens in spring and autumn. In order for it to develop well, it must be placed in a small pot. It needs to be replanted when the roots in the old container become crowded.
Why doesn't spathiphyllum bloom?
The duration of flowering and the abundance of inflorescences will depend on proper care of spathiphyllum. Flowering period for this plant starts in mid-spring and continues until late autumn. With the beginning winter season The flower begins a period of rest and dormancy.
The flower loves warmth, so it is advisable to create comfortable conditions for it to develop well with an optimal temperature of 22-23 o C. If the room temperature is below +18 o C, the spathiphyllum will suffer and grow poorly, and the leaves will begin to turn yellow. When a flower regularly throws out flowers, a caring housewife has nothing to worry about. But what to do when the plant only throws out leaves and does not bloom, and how to make spathiphyllum bloom?
If a plant does not produce buds for a long time, then there are reasons for this. May affect flowering the following main factors:
- The flower does not like spacious pots; its roots must entwine it closely and if this does not happen, the buds will not appear.
- You cannot place the pot in direct sunlight, but you need to choose a place with good lighting.
- The plant is afraid of drafts and air conditioning, for this reason the leaves turn yellow.
- Spathiphyllum does not respond well to heavy watering. Its leaves begin to develop brown spots and gradually the foliage dries out.
- If the indoor air is too dry and insufficient watering, the plant will also not bloom. The humidity level is increased by spraying with a spray bottle. With insufficient moisture levels, the leaves begin to turn yellow.
- The flower needs nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers; if they are deficient, it develops poorly. A lack of fertilizing is also indicated by yellowness on the foliage.
- A plant that is too old will also not bloom. It needs to be seated.
- Flowering is affected by pests and diseases that can appear due to improper care.
Secrets and subtleties of home care
There are many different nuances for caring for spathiphyllum. Knowing the peculiarities of growing a flower, you can achieve regular flowering, the plant will have a healthy and attractive appearance.
Prepared for transplantation special soil composition of equal parts:
- leaf part;
- turf part;
- sand;
- peat.
Replanting must be done carefully so that the root system of the flower is not damaged. After planting, the plant needs frequent watering and spraying. Attentive care and normal conditions will promote good growth.
Spathiphyllum suffers most from pests such as spider mite, scale insects and aphids. They are the most dangerous for indoor plants.
Few housewives know a simple secret - it is better to remove the old leaves of the plant by cutting them off so that new and healthy shoots can quickly form and produce buds.
Basic rules for caring for this delicate flower will help the plant bloom for a long time. Only under comfortable conditions will “female happiness” bloom, give the opportunity to enjoy the magnificent white color and feel happy.
