Everyone knows that the grooves formed between the logs of a log house should be caulked. The essence of such work is to seal the gaps remaining between the logs and in the corners of the log house using moss, tow or any other sealing material. The instructions on how to properly caulk a log house indicate that the seal should protrude from the grooves by 3-4 mm on both sides of the wall, which will protect the future house from blowing and will reduce heat loss during the frosty period by 5-6%.

The process of caulking (caulking) a log house is as follows:

• Evenly distributed fibrous material should be placed across the gap and, using special device(the so-called “caulk”), hammer it into the existing grooves with strong blows. In order for the walls to retain heat better, they need to be caulked both from the inside and from the outside. outside log house
• When organizing these works, it should be taken into account that uneven caulking of the walls can cause distortion of the log house. That is why caulking work is carried out immediately along the entire perimeter of the felled structure; in this case, the crowns are processed sequentially, starting with the lowest one.
• To the caulking internal surfaces walls are transferred immediately after finishing treatment of the external walls.

In construction, two methods of insulating log houses are used, which are called stretch caulking and caulking in a set.

Caulking in a stretch

This method is recommended for caulking existing grooves and cracks in the log house. small size. When sealing a gap, a strand of tow is applied to it and pressed inward using a sealing blade (“caulking”) until the entire space in the groove is filled with material. After that top layer the tow is carefully compacted using a special type-setting “caulk”. Then a dense roller is twisted from tow, which is placed in the groove between the crowns so that it adheres to the fibers protruding from the groove and is driven in with force.

The roller must be captured by adjacent strands hanging from the grooves, because otherwise, it may simply fall out of the groove.

This method of insulating a log house is usually used when it is necessary to seal large cracks and wide grooves. When selling it, small strands are prepared from hemp or tow, which are then collected into a ball to form (set) a loop, which is driven into the grooves as a seal. It is quite natural that the thickness of the assembled loop depends on the size of the existing groove. The resulting layer of tow is compacted first along the upper cut of the crack, and only then along the lower one. All this work is carried out using a special “road caulk”.

Required Tools

It was previously noted that log houses are caulked using special tools, so-called “caulks” made of metal. The main tool for carrying out compaction work is the so-called caulking tool, which is a flat spatula with a blade about 100 mm wide and about 5-6 mm thick. In addition to it, the following tool can be used when carrying out work of this class:

• curved “caulk” with a blade width of about 50-60 mm and a working part thickness of about 5 mm (used for caulking the corners of a log house);
• road caulk with a blade up to 170 mm wide and about 8-15 mm thick with a groove along the length of the blade up to 10 mm deep (used for forming rollers from twisted strands of tow). There are three types of “road builder”, which are used to work with wide, medium and narrow seams;
• breaking wedge up to 30-35 mm wide; used for breaking (cutting) too narrow grooves, making it easier to stuff tow into them.

The blade of the tool used must be smooth and slightly dull, otherwise it will simply chop the sealing material. To hammer in tow with metal caulking, you can use any hammer of suitable weight.

The following tips will provide you with additional help in deciding the question of “how to caulk a log house correctly”:

• If you use moss as a sealant, you must first moisten it in a special solution prepared from 200 grams of soap and 500 grams of oil dissolved in one bucket of water. Before use, it is advisable to soak the tow in any strong disinfectant, which will protect it from pests.

• If the roller twisted from fibers is not voluminous and dense enough, you need to add strands from stock to it insulation material. The spare strand is hooked onto the ends of the tow hanging from the wall and hammered between the logs.
• When driving insulation into the cracks, the crowns can be slightly raised. In this case, the insulation, shaped like a roller, is hammered into the resulting gap using a mallet.

Repeated caulking should be carried out 2 years after the manufacture of the log house, after the latter shrinks and cracks form between the logs again. It is usually performed using the “set” method.

Video

We invite you to watch the process of caulking a log house on video.

Wooden houses have many advantages, but all wooden buildings dry out and become deformed over time. Shrinkage is given not only log cabins, but also houses made of profiled timber. As a result, between wooden elements(beams or logs) cracks and gaps are formed through which cold comes through. The caulking of a log house allows you to make your home warm and cozy and prevent loss of precious heat. This is quite specific and difficult work, which is the filling of the resulting space with special insulating materials. How caulking of a wooden house is done, when it is necessary to do it, what types of caulking exist, we will talk about this in the article.

The first work that is performed immediately after construction is caulking; and sanding the logs, impregnating the wood with antiseptics, and painting the log house are carried out only after caulking. Our ancestors knew what caulk was and why it was needed, because in Russia houses were traditionally built of wood. But even today caulking has not lost its importance. This procedure solves the following problems:

1. When wood dries, cracks and gaps appear in the walls, through which heat escapes, and instead moisture and dampness enter the house. This can cause the development of putrefactive processes in the tree. By caulking you can achieve complete sealing of joints, insulate a wooden structure and prevent rotting.
2. Shrinkage of a wooden house does not always occur evenly. Often one wall shrinks more than the other, which leads to a skew of the entire structure. Caulking the walls allows you to level the structure and give the house the correct shape.
3. Caulked log houses made of logs and gun carriages are much more durable, since special impregnated materials that do not allow water to pass through are used to seal the seams, which significantly extends the service life of the wood.

Caulking is necessary not only for newly built houses; old wooden buildings also need insulation. Caulking an old log house allows you to seal the cracks that have formed in the logs over time, improve the thermal insulation qualities of the house, and renew the wooden structure.

Some people mistakenly believe that caulking is only necessary in a log house, which is subject to severe shrinkage and deformation, and that it is not necessary to caulk a house made of timber, since the material has already passed pre-treatment. However, this is not the case; caulking of profiled timber is necessary, since it also shrinks, and as a result, cracks and gaps appear that accumulate moisture, which can provoke the formation of mold and mildew.

Many people are concerned about the question: is it necessary to caulk a house made of timber if it will be insulated? Professional craftsmen give a clear answer: of course it is necessary. When dry profile beam deformation occurs, resulting in the formation large gaps, which even with external insulation will let through cold air from the street. Caulk timber house makes it invulnerable to wind and cold.

The technology for caulking a log house was developed a long time ago, and today it has remained virtually unchanged. Of course, modern industry has made some adjustments to the tools, devices and materials used, but the basic rules for caulking a log house remain the same.

There are two main caulking techniques: stretched and set. In the first method, the insulation is stretched along the log and one end is inserted into the gap using a special tool. Then a roller is formed from the free end of the material, which is used to fill the grooves of the log house. To caulk cracks using the second method, the insulation is wound into a skein, and loops are made from it to clog the holes. This method is best used when there are large gaps between the logs.

The weakest points in a log house in terms of heat loss are the corners. Through them, wind and cold air penetrate into the house. Therefore, masters pay special attention to them. Caulking of log house corners is done in different ways depending on the house cutting method.

The greatest difficulty is caused by caulking the corners of the log house into a bowl. There are some nuances here. If the house was built from timber, caulking corner connections made with the same material that was put into the crowns, so that there are no discrepancies in thickness. It is best to insulate a house made of rounded logs or carriages with jute or linen rope.

How to caulk a log house? This question is far from idle, since the durability and effectiveness of caulking largely depends on the selected material, which must have certain properties. Since ancient times for insulation wooden structure moss was used. It is still used today for these purposes, but much less frequently, since it is a fairly expensive material. IN modern construction Most often, caulking of a log house is done with tow, jute or flax. Each material has its own characteristics.

Tow is a coarse flax fiber, but you need to take into account that birds love it very much, so after caulking, the tow will have to be treated against birds. Usually it is treated with a special impregnation, for example, drying oil, which does not change the color of the wood; it can also be painted oil paint. The painted surface is reliable protection from insects. Another option is to secure the tow on top finishing materials: decorative rope or rope.

Jute is made from hemp, the material has good hygroscopicity, and even with very high humidity it will remain almost dry. Therefore, jute is usually used to caulk a bathhouse.

Linen batting is a durable material made from fibers and waste from linen production. It is a wide tape, rolled into rolls in a factory manner. Flax wool has excellent thermal insulation properties, absorbs moisture well and quickly evaporates moisture.

The process of shrinking a wooden house lasts several years, so caulking is carried out in several stages. Rough primary caulking is done immediately after cutting the log house. The building is insulated on both sides (outside and inside) interventional insulation, which does not fit very tightly the first time. First, the external joints are sealed, and only after that it is necessary to caulk the house from the inside. Required condition– caulking is done around the perimeter of the entire house. You cannot caulk one wall and then proceed to the second, third, etc. Caulking raises the original height of the house by about 5-10 cm, so the structure may become distorted.

Repeated caulking is carried out approximately a year and a half after completion of construction. By this time, the structure has almost settled down, so the secondary finishing caulking is done very tightly so that there are no gaps or cracks in the seams between the logs. Last time caulking is carried out five to six years after construction, when the house has completed its final shrinkage.

In addition to the usual one, there is also decorative caulk, which is performed for purely aesthetic purposes along already caulked seams. Craftsmen finish the log house with rope or decorative rope.

What is the difficulty of self-caulking?

Despite its apparent simplicity, caulking is a job that requires experience and special knowledge. There are many nuances in caulking that are known only to professional caulkers. The work is performed exclusively by hand, so the quality of caulking depends entirely on the skill and professionalism of the performer.

Of course you can buy necessary materials and caulk the house yourself, but lack of experience will certainly affect the final result. Many people wonder: can caulk fall out after heating a log house or carriage? It depends on how well the work is done. If during caulking the technology is violated and the insulation is not sufficiently secured, then it is quite possible that after heating it will fall out.

Birds will quickly carry the caulking done ineptly with tow into their nests. Professional craftsmen insert the material in such a way that birds cannot reach it and pull it out. If the sequence of work is violated, improper installation interventional material, the use of insulation of different thicknesses, deformation of the structure is possible. In this case, you will have to caulk the house again. As for labor costs, caulking is not an easy job; an amateur will have to put in a lot of effort and spend quite a lot of time to caulk his house.

Professional caulking from the company “Master Srubov”

Insulating a log house and giving it a unique flavor is a job that will be performed at a high quality level by specialists from our company. The craftsmen have many years of experience and the necessary skills, have specialized education and numerous reviews from grateful clients who appreciated the golden hands of professional caulkers.

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In our work, we follow the traditions of old masters, and also use modern tools and equipment, using proven certified materials, which together allows us to maintain a high level of quality. We will carry out caulking of any complexity and volume at an affordable cost. To contact us, visit the page where you will find our details.

Typically, the construction of a building is not the end point of the entire project. In order for the house to last good timing, it is important to follow the rules of care and preventive repair. This is especially true for log buildings. One of key points, which you need to know how to caulk a log house.

What, why, when

A bathhouse or house that was built from rounded logs or logs usually shrinks. In some cases, this value can reach 15–20 cm in the first year. This factor must be taken into account when designing. This phenomenon occurs when some of the moisture is lost and drying out occurs. During this process, loose connections of material may appear where previously everything seemed quite tight. To compensate for this unpleasant fact, it will be necessary to seal the seams. Simply put, this is an event that is aimed at sealing cracks to prevent drafts and reduce heat loss. Caulking should be done after complete shrinkage, which occurs within 6–7 months.

The better

In order to carry out the log sealing process as efficiently as possible, you need to acquire not only good tool, but also suitable material, and also have an idea of ​​how to use them correctly. From the devices we will need:

• Caulk. This is a small device that in appearance resembles a chisel or chisel. Typically, to carry out tasks efficiently, you will need at least two types. One of them is called typesetting. The width of its blade can reach 10 cm. Thanks to it, you can cover large areas faster. The second will be smaller, about 2-3 cm. It will be needed when sealing corner joints. Skilled craftsmen use a curved tool, which allows them to do the work much better, but requires special skill.
• Material that will be used to fill the gaps. Previously, only natural fibers were used for these purposes. Today, synthetic materials have already been invented, as well as various sealants.
• Hammer. In this case, you can use any one you have on the farm, but it’s better if it’s a small sledgehammer.

Some craftsmen believe that it will be more convenient to work with a wooden or rubber mallet, since the blow is soft and as a result the logs are not damaged. Opinions may differ, so everyone chooses the most suitable tool for themselves.

Moss

Red marsh moss is used for these purposes. This is one of the most environmentally friendly methods. It serves as a kind of antiseptic that prevents rotting. It has been used for centuries. This material allows the wood to breathe best. You can’t lay it too wet, you need to let it dry a little.

If this is not done, this may lead to the joints beginning to rot and the structure becoming unusable. But it is also not recommended to lay it dry. In this state, it will crumble easily, and subsequently will not be able to seal the seams hermetically. Before driving it, it is necessary to carry out certain processing. A water-based solution (10 l) is prepared, to which 500 ml of oil and 250 g are added laundry soap. Everything is mixed until the soap is completely dissolved. After this, the moss is soaked and laid to drain a little. To make the roller easier to form, some craftsmen add tow fibers.

Tow

It is also a natural material that is very familiar to plumbers. Due to its fibrous structure, it serves as a good sealant. Some craftsmen are not very fond of this fiber. The fact is that it is quite difficult to work with him. Also, over time, the tow becomes unusable, which will force you to take out its remains and do everything again. Before laying it, it will be necessary to treat it with a special substance that will serve as an antiseptic and also repel insects that can feed on both the fibers themselves and cause harm to the wood.

An excellent material that, like moss, allows the tree to breathe. It is a good filter that does not allow odors to pass through. IN modern material They began to add additional synthetic inclusions, which made it even more durable. The main disadvantage of using this solution is that moths love to feast on felt. It is treated before caulking special compounds which repel this insect.

A modern material that is 100% flax and is a production waste. It is a good seal that does not interfere with air circulation. It has some rigidity, which complicates the caulking process.

One of the most the best materials. It not only perfectly fills cracks, but also protects the inter-crown space from moisture penetration. Birds don't use it to build their nests, so you don't have to worry about them pecking it off. It is made from wood from the linden family. It is usually imported from other countries. The material is soft and flexible.

Jute rope. In addition to its direct purpose, such caulking serves as a decorative finish.

Sealant

This modern method. Many manufacturers have joined this race. The material is supplied in special tubes. It is applied to the joints, after which a beautiful seam is formed.

What to choose is a personal decision for each individual. Everything will depend on the budget, as well as the availability of a particular material in a particular area. But it’s better not to skimp on material.

Technology

The process of sealing inter-crown seams is divided into two types. They are interchangeable and rather complement each other.

• Stretch. This type got its name due to the fact that the material stretches along the entire seam and the fibers intertwine with each other. It is usually used for primary caulking. After the construction of the log house, the cracks are still quite small, so there is no point in filling them with a thick layer of insulation and it is useless. The material is arranged in fibers so that they are perpendicular to the logs. Using a tool, it is pushed into the cracks. After this, the ends that are left hanging are tucked into a roller and compacted tightly into the seam.
• Included in the set. This method is used after the log house has shrunk and the cracks have become more noticeable. To do this, you will need to collect all the fibers in a heap and make ropes from them, which are then wound into a ball. Moreover, the thickness of such a rope will have to be calculated separately for each seam, because the cracks are not the same everywhere.

After the distribution of roll material, the process of sealing seams was greatly simplified. Primary laying is usually done immediately when laying the logs. To do this, it is placed on the lunar recess roll material and secured with a construction stapler. Next, the log is placed in its place. No need to carry out additional work after complete assembly.

During initial sealing, it is important not to save material, but also not to lay it in a large layer. One strip will not be enough, so two are laid. One should go next to the other, and the edges should protrude a few centimeters. This is very important to give stability to the log and make it easier for yourself when re-processing is carried out.

Secondary compaction, which takes place at least six months later, is not the last. In about 4-5 years, when the building has finally settled down, it will be necessary to treat the seams again. You can follow the following sequence:

• We clean the seams from debris and material that has come out or worn out. You can use a vacuum cleaner to make the task easier.
• Caulking needs to be done one by one, not one by one. Those. You need to move around the circumference of each row. This is important so that distortion does not occur and the building is not damaged.
• You should start from the outside and then move inside the building.
• You need to unwind the tape. Its length should be 15–20 cm greater than the length of the wall. This is important, because during the compaction process folds are formed, which will be used for this reserve.
• Now it is important to carefully tuck one of the edges of the tape into the gap to secure it.
• Next, using a caulk and a hammer, we make a compaction. To do this, we lift the hanging end, tuck it in and tamp it down. This operation must be completed in several passes. You shouldn’t try to hammer everything in at once, as this can lead to misalignment faster and the sealing itself will be worse. When twisted several times, a seam is formed in the form of a rope, which is dense enough to not allow air from the street to pass through.
• We repeat the operation from the inside.
• We move from the lower (flashing) crown to the upper one. Perhaps in the upper part it will be enough to simply tuck the material in without special effort so as not to interfere with further shrinkage.

You need to be careful not to overdo the layering. During caulking, the frame is raised. If you make the backing too thick, it can cause the lift to exceed the size of one log. The consequence may be that the dowels will not hold up and the beams will fall out.

Insulation with sealant is much easier. To do this, purchase a special lace of a suitable diameter. It is usually made from synthetic materials. It fits effortlessly into the seam to cover the gap. After this, mastic is applied. Its layer should be 5 mm wide and 10 mm high. After application, the composition is sprayed with impregnation, after which it is leveled with a small spatula. In the first few days you will have to curtain the seams with sunny side, because The manufacturer usually advises avoiding direct sunlight until completely dry.

Sealant is also used after using natural materials. It helps protect the seal from pests and animals. Inside the house, instead of sealant, you can use twine of sufficient diameter to decorate caulked joints.

Usually, self-sealing a log house does not cause any particular difficulties and does not require great skills. The only thing you need is patience, because it will take a lot of time.

Video

This video shows the process of caulking with acrylic sealants:

Building a bathhouse or any other building from a log frame is only half the battle. There is another important job that requires high-quality performance - caulking a bathhouse, which consists of sealing all the cracks to prevent heat loss and wind blowing.

The material for caulking a bath can be chosen from two categories - natural materials (jute, moss, tow) or their synthetic analogues. How to caulk the log house of a bathhouse?

Working with these is much easier and faster than with natural ones. The sealant is leveled with a special spatula and applied with it.

Synthetic sealant

But synthetics also have significant disadvantages:

• Some sealants cannot withstand exposure to sunlight. They fade, become thinner, or are simply blown out of the cracks by the wind. In this case, it is necessary to think about how and with what to cover the joints of the log house;
• Most synthetic sealants do not have the required elasticity. They do not shrink in cold or increase in heat, preventing the natural expansion and contraction of wood.

When choosing synthetic products for caulking a folded log bathhouse, it is extremely important to carefully read the information on the packaging. Make sure that the sealant is suitable for the log wood type, weather conditions and humidity level. Only after this can the product be purchased.

Natural materials

Moss

The undisputed leader among natural materials for caulking baths is moss, which has stood the test of time for centuries. So far, no modern industrial sealant or insulation has been able to surpass moss in quality. What advantages does it have?

Moss treatment

• moss is resistant to rotting;
• has antibacterial properties;
• retains heat perfectly.

Dry moss is first moistened to give it elasticity. The material is then laid on the log so that its ends hang down on both sides. Once the bathhouse is completed, the long ends are trimmed and the remaining moss is tucked between the logs. This is how primary caulking occurs. After six months, and then after another year and a half, the cracks will need to be re-treated.

Jute

Jute has excellent thermal insulation properties; jute fiber remains dry even at high humidity environment. To make work easier, it is recommended to use jute in a roll.

Materials for caulking a jute log house can be of several types:

• Jute tow;
• Jute felt;
• Flax-jute.

Jute tow in bales

To produce tow, jute fibers are not torn, but combed. Jute tow is quite dense and rigid, so working with it is not very convenient.

Since jute is natural material, tow can easily be stolen by birds to build nests. In addition, over time, the jute tow dries out and becomes denser, so caulking the walls will have to be done several more times.

Jute felt consists of 90% small pieces of jute fiber and 10% flax fiber. This material turns out to be quite flexible, dense and warm. But at the same time, short fibers can simply spill out of the material. When purchasing, it is important to pay attention to the length of the fibers - it should be at least two centimeters. Otherwise, the material will quickly lose its thermal insulation properties and the wind will blow into the cracks of the log walls. Also, jute felt requires treatment with a special impregnation that does not allow moths to settle in it.

Flax-jute consists of flax fibers and jute in a ratio of 50 to 50. This material is produced in ribbons, which greatly simplifies its use. Flax-jute is prone to rapid rotting and moth damage. High quality caulking baths with such material are possible only after it has been impregnated from insects and the possible appearance of putrefactive processes.

Tow in blocks

Tow is waste from the processing of jute, flax and other materials. On sale you can find tow already ready for use, as well as compressed into square blocks. It is much more convenient to use ready-made tow, since pressed tow requires stretching required quantity material and its further twisting.

Tow is not particularly popular among builders - it is difficult to achieve uniform insulation with it. In addition, this material may be too hard and not elastic enough, so it is not easy to fill the cracks of a timber bathhouse with it accurately and efficiently.

What is the time frame for caulking baths?

When can I start final stage insulation after the construction of the log house?

If the frame was laid with moss, then it is necessary to cut off its excess. Then the remaining material is tucked into the cracks and carefully pushed inside. All. You should not be particularly zealous - the first caulking will take place six months after the completion of construction. During this time the tree will finally settle down, excess moisture will evaporate. After completing the first caulking, you can install windows and doors.

A year after the first caulking, the second one is carried out as the last stage of insulation. After about five years, another caulking procedure may be used, which is optional and depends on what specific materials were used.

How much material will be needed?

It is impossible to accurately derive a formula by which you can calculate the amount of material for sealing cracks.

Natural material, be it jute or moss, is highly compacted and compressed when processing cracks. So its consumption can be quite large. First of all, material consumption depends on the methods of processing logs and cutting grooves.

In any case, you need to buy material for caulking with a large supply - it will not go to waste and will be useful for a repeat procedure. As for industrial sealants, as a rule, the manufacturer indicates a method for calculating the approximate number of packages.

What rules must be followed?

Materials for caulking baths

The process of caulking a bathhouse itself is quite simple, despite the fact that the work progresses slowly and monotonously. Everything needs to be done efficiently, carefully and slowly; you can spend almost the whole day on this stage.

To receive warm bath It is important not only to caulk the log house correctly, but also not to forget to lay insulation between the rows of logs. It could be jute, moss or tow. The material is laid in two layers, and its edges on all sides should protrude by about 5 centimeters.

You need to start caulking from the bottom crown, moving around the entire perimeter of the bathhouse from the outside, then carefully seal the cracks from the inside of the building. And only then can you move on to the next crown. Special attention attention should be paid to sealing the corners. As a rule, these are the places where the largest holes and cracks appear. The corners are caulked last; a special shaped spatula is used.

If the first caulking is performed, then the hanging ends of the material are removed first. No tools have yet been used for this, and the material is not compacted. After some time, it is necessary to push the jute or moss deeper until it begins to spring back slightly, opening new cracks. They are also sealed using another piece of caulking material.

The material should not protrude from the recesses by more than 5 mm, otherwise appearance the baths will be sloppy. You should not overdo it with the amount of insulation, as well as with its compaction, as there is a risk that the building will increase in height by 15 centimeters.

In no case should you leave hanging remains outside - birds can easily take them away to build their nests.

Decorative jute cord

For beautification internal view indoors, you can drive a decorative jute cord into the seams, which looks very impressive on the wall.

If a synthetic sealant is used, we must not forget to thoroughly clean the cracks from dust and dirt. After the sealant has dried, it is recommended to varnish the surface.

When using moss or tow, there is no need to “tap” the tree. In this case, the fibers of the insulation break, and completely unnecessary microcracks appear in the log, which over time can lead to rotting of the wooden frame.

Caulking the frame of a bathhouse is not so much a difficult job as it is a responsible one. The main thing is to do everything slowly and carefully.

Look beautiful wooden houses. They are warm because during construction, insulation is placed between the crowns of the logs. But after shrinkage, gaps of different sizes and cracks may appear, which spoils its appearance and makes it cold. In addition, cracks can become a place for rot and mold to appear. To prevent this from happening, after the structure shrinks, the log house is caulked with moss or other material.

A house or bathhouse made of logs shrinks in the first 2 years after construction. In the first year, the shrinkage of the log house reaches up to 20 cm. This factor should be taken into account when designing a house. This is due to loss of moisture and drying out.

During shrinkage, loose joints appear in places where everything was previously sealed. To eliminate this, resort to caulking. It is necessary to take measures to seal the cracks so that there is no heat loss or drafts. These activities are carried out only after the structure has settled.

Material for sealing cracks

Caulking material

Intercrown insulation - material for thermal insulation of seams wooden houses. Insulation is often made from natural materials, which are distinguished by their environmental friendliness and ability to “breathe”, which provides sound and heat insulation. To fill the cracks, the following materials are used: tow, felt, mosses (red, white). Each has advantages and disadvantages.

Each owner of a log house independently chooses the type of material, taking into account the quality, financial capabilities, and availability of the material.

Caulking technology

Before caulking, the moss is dried. However, before starting the caulking process itself, it is wetted, otherwise it will crumble in your hands and it will be impossible to do any work with it. Caulking with moss is carried out with special tools: caulking, mallet.

The caulking tool is made from the same wood as the log house. This is done so that the tool and the log have the same hardness upon contact. Then there will be no traces left on the log house. A wooden hammer is used to strike the caulk, which makes it possible to push the moss into the crack with force and tightly fill the space.

Caulk with moss begins from the bottom row, passing along the perimeter. This approach avoids distortions. The crown passes completely from the outside to the inside. Before use, “Kukushkin flax” is formed into 100 mm strips, laid parallel to the log, and cracks and crevices are sealed using special tools. White moss is fluffed up a little before work. The laying is done perpendicular to the log with hanging fibers on both sides of the log by 100 mm, which are then pushed into the gap with tools.

Caulking moss at a log house is not a difficult job, but it requires care. We must ensure that the house does not warp, that the seams are complete, that the logs do not fall out or tear apart from each other. What is needed in this matter is perseverance, time, and patience.