Autumn processing is a guarantee of a rich and high-quality harvest in the coming season. Cut and remove old leaves, loosen and feed, cover plants on winter period- this is the basic care of strawberries. Autumn work with this crop they begin after the fruiting phase.

Weeding and loosening

The basic rule of pruning is: don't overdo it. For each bush, you need to cut off the leaf blade itself, preserving the protruding stems. Thus, the growing point remains intact, and the bushes soon begin to sprout new leaves. All tendrils of berry bushes also need to be removed.

Top dressing

Fertilizer application is another one important stage on the question of how to care for strawberries in the fall. The plant responds well to organic nutrients: bird (chicken) droppings, horse manure, mullein or humus. Gardeners also often add it (it replaces fertilizing well).

As for mineral fertilizers, you can use superphosphate or potassium salt.

Important!It is extremely undesirable to apply chlorine-containing substances as fertilizer, since the strawberry plant reacts poorly to chlorine.

First, humus, mullein, or mullein are laid out in small pieces over all the beds. Rains and scheduled watering will gradually dilute fertilizers, evaporating useful substances from them and delivering them deep into the strawberry root system.

However, the bed method works much faster. For this purpose, fresh droppings are dissolved in water in a ratio of 1:20 and thoroughly mixed. Then the resulting liquid is poured under the berry bushes. Consumption for 7–10 bushes is approximately 1 bucket of the composition. In case of use mineral supplements they are scattered around the area, embedded in the ground with a hoe. It is necessary to water immediately. To prevent a crust from forming on its surface after moistening the soil, the area is mulched or covered with pine needles. In the future, it will be possible to loosen the soil and water the plants through the layer.

Soil renewal

If you have a small land plot and you have to grow the same plant crop in one place year after year, it is natural that the soil needs renewal (improvement). In old soil, pathogens of fungal diseases accumulate, and the number of nutrients decreases.

The whole secret of renewing the land lies in enhanced agricultural cultivation technology. For example, you can create sunken or raised beds by filling them with humus or compost. In such conditions, the soil is partially replaced, microorganisms are intensively functioning, processing organic matter into new soil. In addition, the berries are abundantly supplied with nutrients.
Plants can be protected from and thanks to health-improving treatment of the soil under strawberries in the fall. Do not forget also that the beds need to be mulched from time to time. Mulch will serve as a barrier to the penetration of infections into the above-ground parts of strawberry plants.

Autumn transplant

For replanting, take one- or two-year-old bushes, previously divided into parts. You can also use the growth formed on the antennae. Transplantation is carried out primarily for the purpose of rejuvenating the planting. Over 3–4 years, berry bushes age, the number of flower stalks decreases, and the berries themselves become smaller.

It is carried out in the fall, since during this period the soil is wetter and warmer, and the weather is cool. Start replanting bushes in mid-August and finish in the first weeks of September. This way you give the plant time to take root, take root and grow good green mass.
Before winter, the strawberries will leave stronger and dressed in lush foliage. Most of the seedlings transplanted during this period easily survive the winter and begin to bloom. Thus, autumn transplant is the best answer to the question of how to prepare strawberries for winter.

It is not for nothing that strawberry is considered the queen among the berries that grow in our climatic conditions. And this is thanks to its exquisite taste and unique aroma, which most of us like so much. Strawberry's closest relative, garden strawberry, or Victoria, as it is also called, has special taste qualities. Unfortunately, the ripening season for this beautiful berry is quite short - by the end of the first summer month it stops bearing fruit. However, at the same time, it also requires considerable labor effort on the part of the owner, and not only in spring and summer. Victoria also needs care in the fall. And this, in turn, is a guarantee that next summer on your personal plot There will be a wonderful berry harvest. Therefore, we will talk about what to do with Victoria in the fall.

At all autumn care for Victoria involves, firstly, mandatory pruning of bushes, and secondly, feeding it with fertilizers, and thirdly, preparing the plant for winter.

One of the most basic milestones in caring for garden strawberries is pruning. As a rule, the mustache and leaves of bushes are pruned. The need for this procedure is explained by providing the plant with rest after active growth and fruiting, which will lead to rejuvenation of Victoria and a gain of strength for next summer. In addition, such treatment of Victoria in the fall will help improve the condition of each bush. It is known that various types of pests settle on the leaves. By cutting them off you naturally improve the health of strawberries.

Regarding how to prune Victoria in the fall, it is recommended to perform this procedure immediately in the fall in September. Use pruners, a sharp knife or scissors for this. It is important to cut the leaves at a level of 10 cm from the ground so as not to damage the growing point of the Victoria.

After pruning, experienced gardeners advise treating the bushes with solutions against pests and diseases. It will also be very useful for the berries to weed the rows, loosen them and add fresh soil for the exposed roots.

How to care for Victoria berries in the fall: feeding

But Victoria strawberries need autumn feeding to accumulate organic, minerals and the formation of new fruit and leaf buds. Victoria fertilizer should be applied in the fall after trimming the leaves and tendrils, that is, in September.

If we talk about what to feed Victoria in the fall, then humus, compost, chicken droppings, and a barn are excellent for these purposes. Use and mineral fertilizers(superphosphate, potassium salt). Excellent growth for the kidneys is provided by fertilizing, for the preparation of which you need to mix 2 tablespoons of potassium fertilizers and nitrophoska with a glass of wood ash, dissolving the mixture in 10 liters of water. This kind of chatter needs to be poured under each bush. After applying fertilizer, it is recommended to mulch the soil.

Autumn care for Victoria: preparing for winter

In areas where winter is always snowy, the Victorian cold is not terrible. But the lack of snow for plant bushes can be disastrous. That is why strawberries should be covered for the winter.

Ordinary straw is especially suitable for mulching. It is necessary to carefully and completely cover each bush. But if you don’t have straw at your disposal, you can use other materials. Fallen leaves, peat, tree branches or corn stalks - anything that can be found in your garden - can also be used as a covering cushion. In addition, quite often, to prepare Victoria strawberries for winter, they use purchased covering material - spunbond or lutrasil.

Thanks to this care in the fall, garden victoria the plant will accumulate strength and give you a tasty and rich harvest in next year.

Garden strawberries, often called Victoria, have gained wide popularity and distribution in gardens. various areas countries. This is due to the ease of its propagation, the early ripening of the crop, the convenience of protection from harsh winter weather conditions, and the high dietary and taste qualities of the berries. Many gardeners annually receive high yields of Victoria, having mastered its agricultural technology well.

Soil and planting site for Victoria

The plant must be planted on a piece of land with a slight slope to the west. There must be a place protected from winds. After all, in winter, Victoria is protected from frost by snow, which means that under no circumstances should it be blown away by the wind. A bare berry may freeze and die. It is advisable to choose sandy loam soil rich in humus.

Others are being added to it fertilizers. It is better to apply fertilizers in the fall, scattering them evenly and digging them with a shovel. In spring, shallow loosening is necessary in order to level the surfaces and cover moisture. For one square meter soil where strawberries will be planted, you will need:

• twenty grams of potassium chloride;
• twenty grams of ammonium nitrate;
• twenty-five grams of superphosphate;
• six kilograms of humus.

It is best to alternate planting Victoria with vegetable crops . The best precursors for this berry are: green plants (dill, parsley, lettuce), legumes, garlic, onions, root vegetables. And it is not advisable to plant it after potatoes, as the plant may become infected with a nematode.

Reproduction and planting

By mid-summer, adult Victoria plants grow tendrils, on which are located nodules that will produce roots and leaves in the future. Victoria reproduces with the help of such antennae. The three rosettes located on the mother plant are considered to be of higher quality. When four to six leaves appear on such a rosette, it should be separated from the mother plant for planting in a permanent prepared place. In order for the plant to take root quickly and well, it is necessary to dig out rosettes with a lump of earth.

Many gardeners plant strawberries in beds ranging from eighty to one hundred centimeters wide and up to fifteen centimeters high. The edges of such beds can be edged with boards, and the passages can be filled with sawdust.

Victoria is planted throughout the growing season from the beginning of spring until the middle of the last month of summer. Planting dates are determined by the readiness of the sockets.

For spring term rosettes are grown in seedling beds or dug in near the mother bush. In this case, Victoria will bear fruit this year, although only slightly.

Very common ribbon two-row planting pattern. In this case, the distance between the rows in the tape is approximately forty centimeters, between the tapes themselves up to eighty centimeters, and between the plants from twenty to thirty centimeters. In this case, up to ten plants are placed on one square meter.

The density of planting depends on the Victoria variety and growing conditions.

Before planting seedlings, you should dig grooves or holes up to ten centimeters deep and water them well. Then plant the seedlings in them and water them thoroughly again.

It is best to plant in cloudy weather or in the evening. This improves survival rate.

In order to properly care for young Victoria seedlings, you should not forget them on time water. During the first two weeks, watering should be especially regular. If the weather is dry, then watering should be daily, and only then once every two or three days.

How to care for mature Victoria bushes

Spring chores

1. After the snow has melted and the top layers of soil in the Victoria beds have dried, all debris and dried leaves should be removed from them. Old tendrils and leaf petioles are best trimmed with pruning shears. Victoria bushes that did not survive winter frosts should be removed along with the roots. Weeds that have managed to grow in late autumn are also removed. All these plant residues are composted with manure or burned off-site.
2. After the soil in the beds and between the rows has dried, it is loosened to a depth of about four centimeters, then the surface is leveled, crushing lumps and dusted with ash.
3. Now you can apply fertilizer. First of all, when caring for Victoria in the spring, organic fertilizers are applied, for example, sawdust or straw. To do this, they are first crushed and sprinkled a little around the bushes. You can also add peat chips or humus.
4. It is advisable to treat Victoria for pests in mid-April, and if that doesn’t work out, then in May. It will be enough to water the plants with a weak solution copper sulfate. After such watering, the first buds will begin to bloom on the plant.
5. Although Victoria is a moisture-loving plant, excess moisture has a negative effect on it. When caring for a plant, it is advisable to combine its watering with pest protection and fertilizers. Some gardeners do their first spring watering hot water.
6. After cleaning, watering and sprinkling organic fertilizers Victorias required nitrogen fertilizers. They are introduced only after the first leaves appear on the plant. To do this, combine cowshed and ammonium sulfate, dilute with water and water the Victoria.
7. Plants should be watered in the morning once a week in spring. warm water . Before flowering, watering can be done by sprinkling. When Victoria blooms and when there are already berries on it, watering is done carefully so that water does not get on them.
8. Already in the spring you will have to fight weeds. If the rows are mulched with sawdust, then there will be no weeds, and water and fertilizers will pass directly to the tubers.

How to care for Victoria in the summer

1. Weekly watering of plants.
2. Weeding beds with Victoria from weeds.
3. Mandatory inspection of plants for diseases and pests.
4. When the first berries begin to set, be sure to add straw or sawdust. Then the fruits will not get dirty and rot.
5. It is necessary to remove damage to parts of the Victoria or the damaged bush itself so that other plants do not become infected from it.
6. Before flowering, fertilize with a solution of nitrophoska or potassium sulfate.
7. Berries must be picked regularly, along with the stem.
8. After harvesting Victoria, before the tenth of August, you should feed the bushes with wood ash and nitrophoska.
9. Cover the beds with film during heavy rains so that diseases do not develop and the berries do not become watery.
10. The tendrils of fruiting Victoria should be removed in a timely manner to prevent the rosettes from taking root. The tendrils are left only if seedlings are needed to resume planting. Leave them near the mother's rosettes.
11. After harvesting, the soil is loosened, and if the roots are exposed, the bush is hilled up.

Autumn work or preparing Victoria for winter

1. The soil must be mixed after flowering mulch. This is done with wood shavings, straw or dry moss. This allows you to protect the berries from gray rot. The same procedure is repeated by mid-autumn, but using peat or grain production waste. The layer thickness should be from five to eight centimeters. Leaves should not be covered.
2. To prepare Victoria for winter, not only the mustache, but also the leaves are cut from the bushes at a distance of ten centimeters from the ground. This shouldn’t be scary, since new leaves will appear before winter and the plant will get stronger.
3. Trimmed bushes should be sprayed against diseases and pests.
4. Feed the plants with mineral fertilizers. This is necessary so that Victoria accumulates them to form new leaves and berry buds.
5. In areas where the winter is not very snowy, Victoria takes shelter. You can use ordinary straw, tree branches, and fallen leaves. Some special covering material is often used for this purpose. You can also cover it with film, but be sure to remember to remove it in the spring no later than the beginning of May.

Protection from pests and diseases

An important role in caring for Victoria is its protection from diseases and pests. The most common pests in Victoria are the strawberry mite and the nematode. And among diseases: gray rot of berries, powdery mildew and white spotting of berries. But how to care for Victoria to prevent this? To prevent such diseases and pests you should:

• Plant seedlings only when they are healthy;
• use varieties that are resistant to diseases and pests;
• prevent thickening of bushes;
• Limit watering during berry ripening;
• remove berries and leaves that are damaged;
• soak seedlings from healthy mother plants for fifteen minutes in hot (forty-six degrees) water to destroy the nematode and strawberry mite;
• To combat nematodes, it is recommended to plant calendula, onions, marigolds, garlic, and immortelle in the spaces between the rows of Victoria bushes.

Previously, only strawberries were grown in Russia - a fragrant and tasty berry, but small and not very productive, so today this plant is almost never found on garden plots. It was replaced by large-fruited strawberries, brought by sailors to Europe from America. One of its varieties, called “Victoria,” began to spread with particular speed, and soon all strawberries began to be called Victoria. To get a rich harvest of tasty and healthy berries, you need to know the rules for planting and growing Victoria in open ground areas.

Victoria landing time

The best time to plant strawberries is spring or autumn. In the spring, plants are planted as early as possible - immediately after warm weather sets in and the threat of return frosts disappears. In autumn, Victoria should be planted from the second half of August until September 15, and then next season the plantings will be pleased with the first berry.

Seedlings with a closed root system, purchased in cassettes or containers, can be planted as early as mid-July. The main thing is to choose a cloudy day for planting and moisten the soil well. Seedlings planted in summer will have time to take root well before winter and next spring will give full harvest.

Some gardeners grow planting material with their own hands, although this is a long and labor-intensive process. After all, to get a full independent plant it will take at least three years. Therefore, experts advise buying seedlings from well-known nurseries, and preferably in cassettes or containers. This is the most reliable and quick way growing crops.

Site selection

The area allocated for Victoria should be sunny and have a flat surface with a slight slope to the southwest. You should not choose to plant this crop steep slopes, from which the winter wind blows snow away, and spring waters carry away part of the fertile layer. Lowlands and depressions where melt water lasts for a long time are unsuitable for growing strawberries.

The soil on the site should contain a lot of organic matter. Light loam, black soil or gray forest soil are best suited for growing this berry in open ground. Groundwater should lie no closer than 1 m to the ground surface.

Victoria is growing well after herbs, cereals, onions, garlic, petunias, marigolds. You should not plant berries in beds where tomatoes, eggplants, and cucumbers previously grew. After 3-4 years, the plants are transferred to a new location.

Spring planting

For spring planting Victoria, the soil must be prepared in advance, even before the start of winter. The area must be carefully dug up, weeds removed and the following fertilizers applied to each square meter of area:

• humus - 9-10 kg;
• superphosphate - 100 g;
• potassium salt - 50g.

Seedlings for planting in spring must be selected that are strong and healthy. Before planting in the ground, it should be hardened for several days by placing it in a cool place.

Between plants located in the same row, leave 25-30 cm. To ensure ease of care, the beds are separated by passages 40-50 cm wide.

Before planting, the roots of the plant are cut to 10 cm and holes are dug to such a depth that the root system fits vertically. Special attention When planting Victoria, you should pay attention to the location of the neck of the bush.

The neck of the bush should be flush with the soil surface. If planted high, the roots may dry out, and if planted too deeply, the plant may rot.

The planted plant is watered abundantly and covered with special material to protect it from frost or sunburn.

Planting in autumn

Autumn planting of strawberry seedlings is considered optimal, since in the spring of next year a full harvest can be harvested from young bushes. Plants planted in early spring will also begin to bear fruit the following season, but they will have to be cared for all summer.

Before autumn planting the area should be processed and prepared in early spring by applying necessary fertilizers. If every piece of land in the garden is valuable, these beds can be temporarily occupied for onions, garlic or celery, that is, early-ripening vegetables.

Before planting seedlings in open ground, the roots should be treated with a fungicide (fungicide) and young plants should be kept in a cool place for several days.

Growing Victoria

In the first year after planting Victoria in the ground, do not try to get big harvest. On the contrary, so that the plant strengthens and grows root system, it is necessary to remove the tendrils and flowers that appear.

Caring for adult plants involves a number of activities.

1. Processing the area with strawberries. Early spring As soon as the growing season begins, it is necessary to collect old mulching material from the beds and between rows, remove dry and damaged leaves, and loosen the soil between the plants.
2. Watering. Large juicy fruits cannot be obtained without proper, balanced watering. There should be enough moisture for normal plant growth, but at the same time, severe waterlogging of the soil can cause rotting of the root system. Water Victoria once every 10 days at the rate of 10-12 liters per 1 square meter. m starting from mid-April. IN summer period, with the onset of heat, the frequency of watering can be increased to 4 times a week. In autumn, in August and September, the number of waterings is reduced to 2 times a week. It is better to carry out watering work in the morning, trying not to get water on the leaves and flower stalks. During flowering, drip irrigation is used.
3. Loosening. After the next watering, the soil around the plants and between the rows must be carefully loosened, trying not to damage the adventitious roots lying near the surface of the earth. This is necessary in order to make the soil breathable and facilitate the flow of oxygen into the root system.
4. Weeding. Caring for plantings involves regularly removing weeds from beds and walkways. Weeds not only deplete the soil, taking away most of the moisture and nutrients, but are also a breeding ground for pathogenic bacteria and a haven for pests. To stop the appearance of weeds, you can cover the planted area with mulching material: sawdust, wood chips, dry pine needles, or cover it with agrofibre.

These are the main activities that every gardener involved in growing Victoria in open areas should regularly carry out.

Care during flowering

The appearance of the first flower stalks occurs in mid-May. It is during this period that the future harvest, the quality and quantity of which depends on proper care. To feed the plants during this period, potassium fertilizers, humus and ash are added to the soil. You can increase the number of inflorescences using a solution of boric acid prepared at the rate of 1 tsp. onto a bucket of water, which is used to spray green bushes.

It is especially important to weed and loosen the area, preventing the appearance and growth of weeds. To get a large berry, you need to use pruning shears to remove all the excess tendrils and leaves that absorb moisture and nutrients from the soil.

Feeding Victoria

It is impossible to imagine caring for Victoria without feeding this plant. Fertilizers should be applied at least three times per season.

• Early in the spring, after processing the area allocated for berries, nitroammophoska is added to the soil. Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, which are part of this fertilizer, are the most necessary substances for plant development.
• During budding, potassium is added to the soil, a large amount of which is contained in ash, infusion of chicken manure, and potassium nitrate. After picking the berries, the plants are again fed with nitroammophoska, dissolving 2 tbsp. l. in 10 liters of water.
• AND last time Victoria is fed with urea in August. This promotes the formation of new flower buds and more abundant fruiting next year. The solution is prepared at the rate of 30 g of urea per 10 liters of water.

Available for sale complex fertilizer, developed specifically for strawberries and increases yield by 30%.

Growing Victoria is an incredibly useful and interesting activity, although it requires certain skills and knowledge. Having studied the advice of experts and provided proper care looking after the plants, it will not be difficult to get a decent harvest of this tasty berry.

The taste and size of Victoria strawberries depend on care and feeding. This is an undemanding and large berry.

It resists diseases well, but you need to choose the right place for planting. If necessary, adjust the soil, because on heavy soils with clay admixtures, the absorption of nutrients is impaired. Fertilizer for Victoria can be selected from those available on the farm organic matter or use store-bought mixtures specifically made for strawberries.

If additional additives are not used, not all characteristics of the variety will be manifested. The longer a plant is in the garden, the more nutrients it takes up and the worse it grows and bears fruit: sour small berries, small bushes.

You can start caring for strawberries in the fall. If the seedlings have not yet been planted, you need to prepare the beds and add a certain amount of fertilizer - preferably organic, so that the young bushes immediately begin to grow.

Preparing the landing site

How to feed Victoria for the future harvest can be found in the household:

• compost;

• chicken droppings;

• manure;

• green manure;

• mineral mixtures.

But first you need to choose the right bed:

• it should be on the sunny side;

• be protected from the winds - good option– put a fence on both sides of the garden bed so that the bushes are covered;

• do not choose areas where water stagnates;

• it’s not very good if the bed is located near potatoes, tomatoes, peppers;

• do not plant under trees.

You can plant Victoria in holes and add fertilizer to each hole. If water stagnates in the soil, it is better to plant on a “ridge”.

Feeding Victoria in spring

Strawberries respond very well to organic fertilizers. For spring fertilizing Victoria, you can use an infusion of chicken manure. Chicken fertilizer must be used carefully, as it is the most concentrated of all animal fertilizers.

To begin with, fill a third of the bucket with droppings and fill it with water. Wait 4 - 5 days until excess ammonia disappears from the mixture. Next, each liter of infusion is diluted in 20 liters of water. Water under the root into the hole so that the fertilizer does not spread.

The best option is compost based on manure or chicken droppings. But at home it takes a long time to ripen, and it’s a little expensive to buy.

The substance is prepared as follows - placed in layers in a pile:

• priming;

• manure;

• plant residues;

• kitchen waste.

For the first time Victoria has enough food. After rooting, after about 2 - 3 weeks, you can foliar spray the strawberries with a urea solution diluted twice. This will stimulate the growth of greenery and shoots. During fruiting, strawberries cannot be sprayed.

Flowers appear in mid-May.

It's time to think about what to feed Victoria to replenish its reserves of potassium and phosphorus. It is not advisable to use nitrogen-containing fertilizers, as this causes increased growth of shoots, but has a bad effect on the formation of fruits: you can get large beautiful bushes strawberries with one peduncle.

Ash solution is a unique folk remedy that has been used since time immemorial and always works well. To do this, you need to burn the wood and save the ashes. Many people grill shish kebab at their dacha using firewood.

Hardwoods are more suitable, especially oak. Oak ash contains 20% potassium and 75% calcium. Young shoots have more potassium, and it is also found in the ash from weeds. It’s easy to prepare an ash solution:

• take 300 g of ash;

• pour a bucket of water;

• wait 3 - 4 days.

You can water at the beginning of the fruiting period to better ripen the berries and give them a sweet taste.

Video: First feeding of strawberries in spring

It is important to regularly weed out weeds and trim strawberries, because for their growth the plant consumes additional nutrients, which should go towards the formation of fruits. It is recommended to cut off the first flowers so that the rest will be larger.

In spring, the plant should be especially protected from fungal diseases that can damage the berries. Proper and regular feeding helps maintain the plant's immunity.

Victoria's summer feeding

Potassium and phosphorus are the substances that need to be used to fertilize Victoria in the summer during the period of active fruiting. You can continue to use the ash solution. If the ash is over, then mineral fertilizers are used. It is advisable to use those mixtures that are specifically designed for berry crops.

Conventional fertilizers for flowers and vegetables are not suitable, as they have an incomplete composition of microelements. Experienced gardeners advise to use potassium nitrate - 1 teaspoon of granules, diluted in 10 liters of water. Watering boric acid helps increase the number of inflorescences – Stir 1 teaspoon in a bucket of water.

If rainy weather lasts for a long time and there is little sun, then you should expect the appearance of fungus on the strawberry plantation. To avoid this, you need to mulch the soil between the rows and under the bushes. The berries will be dry and there is less chance that the fungus from the soil will reach them.

Important! During the fruiting period, you cannot use chemicals against pests. Plants need to be sprayed in advance for prevention.

In summer, watering is especially important when strawberries gain weight. Nutrients must dissolve in water and thus enter the berries. If there is not enough water, then the absorption of fertilizing will be inadequate, and the berries will be tasteless, or rather sour. In the absence of rain, strawberries It is recommended to water 3–4 times a week so that the soil is moistened to a depth of 10–12 cm.

Autumn feeding of Victoria strawberries

How to fertilize Victoria so that next year’s harvest will please you? Before you start autumn activities, you need to think about how long strawberries grow in one place. If it is 3 years old, then it needs to be replanted, otherwise the berries will become smaller and the yield will decrease. And in the fall, phosphorus mixtures are usually added. Phosphorus binds to the soil and remains in it until spring.

Superphosphate – good choice. It can be embedded in the ground dry, making furrows around the bush, or diluted with water and watered in the depressions, and then covered with earth. Superphosphate dissolves in about a day, so it is first soaked and stirred periodically, and then watered.

Potassium is needed for the bush to overwinter well. Potash fertilizers for Victoria you can also contribute in September. If you use wood ash for this purpose, you can simultaneously achieve looser soil and reduce soil acidity. This is an economical remedy, since it is applied possible once every 3 years.

Important! You cannot add nitrogen before winter, because it stimulates the growth of green mass and the plant will die from the cold.

For the winter, strawberry bushes are mulched and, depending on the winter in the region, wrapped in polyethylene or spruce branches.

Conclusions

To get a good harvest of Victoria strawberries, it is enough to follow simple rules use of fertilizers, watering and replanting of plants.

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Autumn is a period when the garden requires special care. Although all the berries are harvested, the strawberries require pruning, spraying, covering for the winter and moisture-replenishing watering. In the fall, dry leaves are trimmed from the bushes, fed, loosened the soil, and treated against diseases and pests.

Features of autumn processing

Read also

The most common strawberry pests are aphids, snails, slugs, strawberry-raspberry weevils, and spider mites. Diseases include white spot, brown spot, powdery mildew, gray spot.

Snails and slugs are collected by hand from the bushes and destroyed.

The following preparations are most often used to spray strawberries in the fall:

From spider mite add 2 tbsp to a bucket of water at a temperature of 30°C. spoons liquid soap, 3 tbsp. spoons of overcooked sunflower oil, 2 tbsp. spoons of ash and 2 tbsp. spoons of vinegar.

You can also spray the bushes with potassium permanganate, a solution of copper sulfate (2-3%) or Bordeaux mixture (3—4%).

For prevention, you need to constantly pull out all the weeds, cut off dry and diseased leaves, and also loosen the soil and moisten it.

Gray rot

Gray rot It develops especially actively in rainy weather. Gray rot occurs most intensely when plantings are dense due to poor ventilation of strawberries, when planting in lowlands, and also when there is an excess of nitrogen in the soil, that is, an excessive dose of urea or organic matter when applied.

By the time the berries form, the rot spores have matured and spread around large areas, scattering through the air. The spores fall on the berries and appear on them. gray plaque, and then the berries begin to rot.

To prevent gray rot, strawberries are sprayed with “Fitosporin” or “Fito-plus”. You can use a solution of 1 teaspoon of Bordeaux mixture per half liter of water (1% solution).

White spot (ramularia) and brown spot (cladosporiosis) of leaves

These diseases usually appear in early autumn. Ramularia is detected by seeing carmine spots with white dots on the leaves. With cladosporiosis, reddish-brown spots with dried edges are visible on the leaves.

Therefore, at the beginning of autumn you need to water the bushes with Fitosporin. But it is better to use the safe “Zircon” instead of this drug, this is a mixture of hydroxycinnamic acids that the bushes themselves produce to protect themselves from diseases.

Mycoplasma and viral diseases

They can be detected by wilting bushes, or by mosaic spots on the leaves. Plants become dwarf and their leaves become curled. If you see diseased plants, dig them up with their root system and burn them. Plant flowers in the vacant space for 3-4 years.

Nematode

In September, be sure to inspect the bushes to see if they are damaged by nematodes. If nematodes are found, dig up the diseased bush and 2 more bushes on either side of it and burn it. Plant strawberries in this place only after 2-3 years.

Weevil

The weevil lays larvae in unopened buds. The larva eats out the middle of the bud, then moves from the bud to the ground, where it pupates.

If you see pinholes on the leaves, this means that the weevil wants to drink juice before wintering. Spray the plants with Fitoverm or Iskra-bio.

Strawberry mite

After fruiting, plants are sprayed against strawberry mites with colloidal sulfur or with Apollo, Neoron or Fosbecid preparations; these preparations are poisonous. But “Fitoferm” can be used at any time.

Processing times in the fall

It all depends on the variety of strawberry. Processing is required after picking the berries. That's why regular varieties sprayed in September, and remontant ones just before winter. Then they cover the strawberries for the winter with coniferous spruce branches or a special material - lutrasil.

Video: Treatment of strawberries in the fall from pests and diseases

When growing strawberries, summer residents have to take special care and attention, because this crop is often attacked by insect pests and suffers from various diseases. Usually they are controlled after picking berries or in the spring. But it is much more efficient to process strawberry plantations in the fall. During this period, you can safely use potent and effective drugs without fear of spoiling the harvest.

Having carried out preventive treatment of strawberry plantings against infection by pests and diseases since the fall, experienced summer residents increase crop productivity. To improve the health of plants, it is important to carry out all planned activities and carry them out on time. But first, they carry out preparatory work.

Removing dried leaves

Strawberry and wild strawberry leaves are the only organ through which photosynthesis occurs. They grow constantly: the plant produces new ones to replace old, dying leaves. The most active growth of green mass is observed in spring and autumn. In summer, under the influence of high temperatures, leaves grow more slowly. In winter, this process stops due to frost. At the same time, the old leaves spread fungal diseases, and young ones are often attacked by pests.

To prevent the spread of diseases and partially free strawberries from pests, the green mass is mowed. This should not be done too early, when the beneficial substances have not yet descended from the leaf blades to the stems. Late pruning causes poor quality flower bud formation.

It is correct to cut off the leaves in the second half of August after they grow back.

Transplantation and destruction

Strawberries are transplanted to a new place as needed. Usually, with quality care, the bushes grow well and produce a rich harvest in one place for six years. The rosette is then dug up and moved to a new site.

If plants are heavily infected with an infectious disease or pests, resort to extreme measures and completely destroy strawberry plantings. The bushes are dug up and burned, and the soil is treated with copper preparations and lime for disinfection. Additionally, this area is left unplanted for a year. Then green manure is grown on it for several years.

Preventive measures

In order not to bother yourself with treating diseases and exterminating pests, it is necessary to carry out infection prevention in a timely manner. To do this, after cutting the leaves, the following activities are carried out:

• choose the right place for growing strawberries, taking into account what plants previously grew in this area;
• Only completely healthy planting material is taken for cultivation;
• on time and in required quantity apply fertilizers;
• periodically pull out weeds;
• loosen the soil;
• To simplify care, strawberries are grown in beds up to 50 cm wide.

Timing of autumn processing

Before treating strawberries for pests and diseases in the fall, all the berries are harvested. Depending on the variety, the processing time shifts. If strawberries bear fruit in the summer, spraying is carried out in September. For such processing, carry out late autumn just before the onset of cold weather. Then the bushes are covered with lutrasil or coniferous spruce branches so that they do not freeze in winter.

Pest Control

Strawberries are one of those plants that are very attractive to insect pests. Therefore, to obtain a high-quality harvest one has to make considerable efforts. The earlier it is started, the more successful the struggle will be. And if agricultural practices are used correctly, the risk of infection is reduced to a minimum.

Whitefly

The whitefly is a tiny butterfly measuring up to 1.5 mm. It has two pairs of whitish wings covered with a wax-like coating. This insect lives on the lower part of the leaves and sucks the juice from them. There, adults lay eggs, from which larvae later hatch. They also feed on plant sap.

To combat whiteflies, use a solution of the drug "Aktara". To begin with, dissolve 4 g of the drug in 1 liter of water heated to +25 degrees. Then pour 250 g of concentrate into the tank of the backpack sprayer and fill the container with water to 1/4 of the volume. After thoroughly mixing the solution, spray strawberries in the fall.

As alternative option use the drug "Intravir". 1 tablet of the substance is dissolved in 1 liter of water. Then the concentrated solution is diluted with 9 l clean water.

Ticks

It is almost impossible to see strawberry mites on the plant, since their length is only 0.2 mm, and their body is translucent with yellowish or brown tint. Their invasion causes the bushes to grow to a dwarf size. To combat them, use a Karbofos solution at a concentration of 0.3%. To prepare it, dissolve 30 g of the substance in 10 liters of water.

Spider mites are tiny insects up to 0.5 mm long with a whitish body. Their presence can be detected by cobwebs and light spots on the upper side of the leaves. To combat them, strawberries are treated with poisonous drugs “Apollo”, “Phosbecid” or “Nero”. They can be replaced with a safe solution “Fitoferma”, prepared from 1 ampoule of the drug and 1 liter of water.

Weevil

Externally, weevils look like small black bugs with an oblong body up to 2 mm long and bulging eyes. They lay their eggs in unopened flowers, from which the larvae then emerge and eat the center of the bud. They can be detected by punctures on the leaves. So, the insect drinks the juice from them. To combat weevils, strawberry bushes are sprayed with Aktara, Iskra-bio or Intavir.

Weevils cause the greatest harm to strawberries during dry periods.

Nematode

To detect nematodes, strawberry bushes are inspected in early September. At this time, small colorless worms up to 1 mm long often appear on the foliage. It is very difficult to detect them, so they pay attention to changes in the plant itself. Signs of the presence of nematodes are swelling on the stems and leaf blades, curvature and reduction of petioles.

Destroy the nematode chemicals or traditional methods it won't work. Infected plants are dug up and burned. The soil is disinfected by adding lime. Plants cannot be grown in this area for a year. And it is forbidden to plant strawberries for several years.

Caryopsis and strawberry leaf roller

The weevil is a relatively large black beetle with a body length of 1 cm. This mobile insect feeds on strawberry seeds and eats away the pulp around them, causing the berries to take on an ugly appearance.

Strawberry leaf roller caterpillars can be recognized by the transparent web with which they entangle plant leaves. They prefer to eat the green part of strawberry bushes and sometimes berries.

To destroy these pests, the crop is treated in the autumn with a hot solution of potassium permanganate. An infusion of onion peels also helps. To prepare it, soak 200 g of raw material in 10 liters of heated water and leave for 5 days, and then spray the bushes.

Treating berries with garlic infusion in the fall helps against pests and diseases. To do this, grind 200 g of vegetables and pour 10 liters of water for 3 hours, and then treat the plants.

Other pests

Brown bugs up to 4 mm long are strawberry leaf beetles. They settle on the leaves of strawberry bushes and devour them. Aphids also live there. from these pests comes down to spraying aqueous solution iodine, with the preparations “Nitrophen” or “Nurell-D”.

Slugs and snails eating strawberries are removed by hand and then destroyed. You can scare them away by placing granules of the drug “Metaldehyde” next to the plants.

Disease Control

A universal way to get rid of many strawberry diseases is to treat copper sulfate. To do this, prepare a solution by mixing 10 liters of water and 3 g of blue crystals. The plants are sprayed with this liquid and then covered to preserve them during winter frosts.

Treating crops in the fall against pests and diseases also helps. soap solution the same copper preparation. It is prepared from 3 liters of boiled, cooled water, 5 g of the substance and 200 g of grated laundry soap. After thoroughly mixing everything, the liquid is poured into a spray bottle and the plantings are treated.

Gray rot

This disease is characterized by the appearance of a grayish fluff on the berries. As a result, they rot and become covered with gray marks that fly out from the spores. You can fight gray mold with the drugs “Fito-plus” or “Fitosporin”. They are diluted and used according to the instructions on the package. A solution of 1 liter of water and 1 tsp also helps. Bordeaux mixture, which needs to be sprayed on plants.

Powdery mildew

This disease manifests itself as a thin, cobweb-like coating on the surface of leaves. They get covered rusty spots, deform and curl upward. The berries become covered with a whitish coating with a moldy smell, and then dry out.

The drug “Sulfarid” helps to cope with this disease. Dilute 2 tbsp in 10 liters of clean water. l. Infected plants are treated with this product.

White, brown and brown spotting

When infected with brown spot or cladosporiosis, the plant becomes covered with round brick-red spots. Spots first appear along the edges of the leaf blades. Then they grow and become covered with dark pads of mycelium. The cause of this disease is excessive moisture, weeds or dense plantings.

White spotting or ramularia can be recognized by small round brown spots with white dots. They cover the stems and leaves.

The greatest danger is brown spotting in the form of brown spots with dark edging. They are usually concentrated on the main vein of the leaf and on its edges.

You can get rid of these diseases by watering the bushes in early autumn with a solution of the drug “Fitosporin”. Zircon also works well. Copper oxychloride effectively gets rid of all types of spotting. Dilute 1 tbsp in a bucket of heated water. l. the drug and treat the plantings.

Black root rot and viruses

In plants infected with black root rot, the lower tier of foliage first becomes brown in color, and then dries out and dies. Sick bushes emerge from the soil without any effort. A closer look at the root system reveals cracking of the main taproot. Young roots of such plants die.

Virus infection manifests itself in different ways. In spring the leaves become curly, and in autumn they turn yellow along the edges. In summer, a mosaic virus rages, causing yellow spots to appear on the leaves.

Currently, treatment for such diseases is impossible. Therefore, plants infected with black rot and viruses are destroyed.

Late blight

The cause of this disease is frequent rains and high temperature air. Late blight manifests itself as small gray-brown spots on the surface of the leaf blades. In this case, the fruits become deformed, lose their taste, and then completely dry out, becoming covered with brown spots. To eliminate this disease, after harvesting, the berries are sprayed with Switch, Euparen or Topaz.

Verticella wilt

This fungal disease, expressed by a decrease in yield and the gradual death of the bush. Infection occurs through the root system, into which the mycelium penetrates. This causes the roots to dry out and growth to slow down. Then the leaves acquire a red-yellow hue and fall down. The fight against this disease comes down to the destruction of infected plants.

Chlorosis

The cause of this disease is a lack of certain elements. What specific substance the plant lacks can be judged by appearance. With iron deficiency, the foliage becomes whitish or yellow, but the veins retain their natural color. In this case, the bushes need to be watered with iron sulfate in the fall.