Over time, some private buildings require expansion for various reasons. For example, an increase in the number of occupants, a sewer system installed in the house, or the need to close front door from direct hit cold. Therefore, there is a need for extra room, expanding the kitchen, installing a room for a bathroom, or simply building a veranda.

A do-it-yourself extension to the house can be made of wood, brick or combined version, which includes several building materials.

Premises requirements

So that you don’t have to do it in the attached room additional changes, it is better to immediately think through all the nuances of the extension, since each of them requires a special approach.

Additional room

If you need to add another living room to the house, you will have to try, since this work is almost equivalent to building small house. The floors, walls and ceiling of the building must be well insulated, otherwise the heating installed in it will not be effective - this is one of the main conditions for a living space. Second important condition for normal living, this means the absence of dampness in the room, which means reliable waterproofing is needed.

Kitchen or bathroom

When constructing these premises, before installing the foundation, they bring engineering communications- in particular - sewer pipes. You may have to install the water supply separately.

In addition, it is also worth paying attention to the insulation of all elements of the structure, and think about reliable waterproofing of the floor.

Veranda

A veranda is a lightweight structure that mainly serves to protect the main entrance to the house from wind and rain or is used for summer holiday. It may be closed, have a door and one or more windows, and May be and completely open, that is, it consists of a flooring, low walls and a roof raised on pillars.

This structure does not require special insulation, but it will still be necessary to waterproof the foundation.

Construction of the foundation for the extension

The foundation for the extension can be strip, made of brick or stone blocks, or columnar. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. To settle on one of them, you need to find out how each structure works and choose the one that is more suitable for a particular extension.

Information about building the foundation

Strip foundation

So, strip foundation arranged in the following sequence:

• First you need to mark and trace the place where the extension will be installed. This is done using a rope, which is stretched on the ground and secured with pegs.

• Next, following the markings, a trench is dug to the same depth as the foundation of the entire house. Before pouring concrete, it would be a good idea to secure the reinforcement that connects the foundations of the main building and the extension.
• The width of the trench should be 100-150 mm greater than the planned wall thickness.
• After the trench has been dug, further preparation begins. First, the bottom is filled with a sand cushion 100-120 mm thick. It must be compacted thoroughly.
• The next layer is filled with crushed stone or broken brick, which is also compacted using a manual tamper.
• Next, waterproofing is placed in the trench along the entire perimeter, which should extend to the ground surface by 40-50 cm, since it should cover not only the inside of the foundation, but also the formwork for its above-ground part.
• A welded reinforcement structure is installed on the waterproofing film, which should follow the shape of the foundation, and over its entire height.
• Then the reinforcement is filled with rough concrete mortar made of cement and gravel, to ⅓ of the height of the trench, and after this layer hardens, the next one is poured to one-half of the remaining height.

Installation of formwork for strip foundations

• After filling this layer, you can work on the device wooden formwork to form the above-ground part of the foundation - the plinth. Waterproofing film left inside the formwork, straightened along its walls and secured on top of them so that it does not slide into the concrete.
• Concrete is poured into the prepared formwork to the top. Then the solution is pierced in several places with a shovel so that there are no air cavities left inside it. You can lightly tap the formwork - such vibration will help the concrete to compact as much as possible.

• Having completed pouring the foundation, the concrete is leveled to the required level and left to dry, spraying with water daily to strengthen it.
• After the concrete has completely hardened, the formwork is removed and the foundation is waterproofed from the outside.
• Before starting the construction of walls, it is recommended to additionally cover the foundation with waterproofing compounds or roll materials. For this process use liquid rubber, tar, bitumen mastic and roofing felt.

• The space inside the strip foundation can also be equipped in different ways - concrete screed or a flooring of floor beams and joists with a wooden floor installed on them.

Video - construction of an extension to a house on a strip foundation

Columnar foundation

In addition to a strip foundation, a columnar foundation can be constructed, which is built from brick or concrete, or a combination of these materials. This option is mainly used for the construction of verandas or additional living rooms, since communications associated with water supply or drainage in an uninsulated or even open underground will require additional thermal insulation.

A columnar foundation is most often installed if it is planned to install a boardwalk.

The work is carried out in several stages:

• The first step is marking the area chosen for the extension. The pillars should be one and a half meters apart from each other.

• Excavations are dug for each pillar separately. Their depth should be 500-600 mm, with a square side of 500 × 500 mm. Towards the top, the pits should widen slightly - about 100 mm on each side.

Foundation pillar installation diagram

• Next, the bottom is strengthened in the same way as when installing a strip foundation, using sand and crushed stone, and waterproofing is laid.
• If the support pillars will be built from brick, it is recommended to lay a layer of coarse cement mortar on the bottom. Only after waiting for it to harden, do brickwork.
• If the pillars are concrete, a reinforcement structure and formwork are installed at the bottom of the pits to the height of the future pillar. The waterproofing film is placed inside the formwork and secured on top of it;
• Concrete is poured into the formwork in layers. Each layer must set well before the next one is poured;
• The top of the column is well leveled and sprinkled with water daily until it hardens completely;
• After the pillars are ready, the formwork is removed from them and they waterproofed roofing material, which is glued onto heated bitumen mastic.
• The gap remaining between the soil and the pillars is backfilled, compacting every 100-150 mm of backfilled soil mixed with crushed stone.
• Several layers of roofing material are laid on each of the pillars - it is necessary for waterproofing the wooden blocks that will be laid on top of the pillars.

Installation of the base floor of the extension

If a strip foundation is chosen, both wooden and concrete floors can be installed on it. A columnar foundation without lintels requires the installation of a wooden floor.

Concrete floor

To make a reliable and warm floor screed inside a strip foundation, you need carry out work step by step, adhering to a certain technology.

• To begin with, excess soil is selected from inside the finished strip foundation. It is first loosened and then removed to a depth of approximately 250-350 mm.
• A ten-centimeter sand cushion is poured and compacted onto the bottom of the resulting pit. Crushed stone can be laid on top of it, but to insulate the screed, instead of crushed stone, expanded clay is used, poured in a layer of 15-20 cm.

• Expanded clay is leveled, and a reinforcing grid is laid on it. After its installation, a system of beacons is installed on top at the selected horizontal level. Some rooms, for example, a bathroom or an open terrace, may require a certain slope of the surface to allow water that falls on the floor to flow smoothly to the drainage system.
• Next, lay out on the prepared surface cement mortar and is leveled using the rule. After a day it can be covered plastic film- then the concrete will mature more evenly, which will give it additional strength.

When the walls of the extension are erected, the resulting concrete base any can be laid decorative coating or wooden floor.

Floor on wooden beams

• Floor beams are wooden blocks quite thick, about 150 × 100 mm in cross section. You cannot skimp on them, since the overall strength of the floor will depend on their reliability.

• The beams are laid on pillars or strip foundations, on top of a fabricated roofing felt substrate, and can be fixed to concrete in different ways- using through fasteners, corners and other metal devices. The beams at the intersection points are also fastened together using strong corners.

• They will hold securely, since the wooden flooring of the “black” and “white” floors also serves as a kind of binding fastener.

Video: construction of a frame extension with a wooden floor

Construction of extension walls

Brick or frame walls, columnar is mainly used for frame buildings. If you plan to make brickwork on the pillars, then you will have to make additional concrete lintels between the pillars.

Frame walls

• The frame for future walls is erected from timber and secured to the previously installed crown beams. The beams can be attached to the beams separately, but sometimes it is much more convenient to assemble the wall elements in a horizontal position, on a flat area, and then install them in a vertical position already assembled.

• To connect the frame to the wall of the house, a perfectly accurate vertical marking is made on it, along which a separate block or assembled frame element will be fixed.

• For reliability, all bars are connected to each other with metal corners.

• Having installed the entire frame of the extension, it is better to immediately sheathe it with boards or plywood (OSB) with outside. Sheathing will immediately make the structure more rigid.

• The upper horizontal beam running along the house is attached to the main wall using reliable metal corners or anchors.
• The walls are insulated after the roof is installed.

Video: another example of constructing a light extension to a house

Brick walls

• Before you start building brick walls, you need to carefully check the horizontalness of the foundation surface and, if necessary, level it to perfection. If the base is uneven, the masonry may crack due to deformation during shrinkage.
• It should be noted that brick extensions are best made to also brick house. To connect the extension to the main wall, during the construction of the walls, holes are drilled in it to two-thirds of the depth, every two or three rows of masonry. Reinforcement is embedded in them, which should protrude from the wall by about half a meter. It should be in the seams of the future masonry. To ensure that the seams in these rows are not excessively wide, the reinforcement must be chosen not too thick, or you will have to make a recess in the bricks of the row on which the reinforcement will be laid.
• If brick extension gets a job wooden wall, then a hole is drilled through it, into which reinforcement with a transverse stopper is installed from inside the house, which will hold it in the wall. The reinforcement is also installed as the wall is erected, every two or three rows.

• Before starting laying along future wall string is stretched, along which it will be easy to control the horizontality of the rows, and the verticality is constantly verified using a plumb line.
• The thickness of the walls will depend on what function the extension will perform. If this happens living room, then you should lay at least one or two bricks. If the room will serve as a veranda or utility room, then half-brick masonry will be sufficient.
• Having built brick walls, they are tied along the entire top with a concrete belt. Formwork is made for it, a reinforcement structure is laid in it and poured with concrete mortar. After the solution has completely hardened, the formwork is removed from the belt, and you can begin installing the ceiling.

It should be noted that building brick walls is not as easy as it seems, therefore, if you have no experience in this work, it is better to entrust this process to a qualified mason or choose a different type of wall.

Extension ceiling and roofing

After the walls are erected, it is necessary to make a ceiling. For it you will need beams - beams, which are installed on the upper part of the walls, at a distance of 60-70 cm from each other, and secured with special corners.

If the beams are laid on a brick building, they can be embedded in concrete belt, having previously wrapped the edge of each of them with roofing felt.

The next step is to line the beams with boards or thick plywood, on which insulation will be laid on top, between the beams.

The roof of the extension may have different designs, but basically the single-slope option is chosen, which is worth considering.

• This structure consists of rafters on which the roof is laid. Installing this type of roof is quite simple, the main thing is to choose correct angle slope It must be no less than 25 — 30 degrees - this is necessary in order for precipitation to winter time do not linger on the surface, otherwise they may simply damage it.
• Having determined the slope angle, a mark is made on the wall or façade of the roof in the form of a horizontal, even line along which the block supporting the rafters in the upper part will be attached. The lower support for them will be the previously laid floor beams or the edge of the wall. The rafters should extend beyond the boundaries of the constructed walls by 250 — 300 mm, in order to protect the walls as much as possible from rainwater.
• The rafters are also secured using metal corners.
• It will be more difficult to resolve the issue of roof slope if the extension is installed on the side on which the slope of the main building of the house is located, since there will simply be nothing to secure the transverse beam there. Therefore, you may have to remove several bottom rows (sheets) roofing material from the roof of the house to use its beams for securing rafter system and consolidation of common coverage.
• You need to decide in advance what kind of roofing will be laid on top of the rafter system. If this happens soft roof or flexible tiles, then a solid material is laid on top of the rafters and secured, for example, plywood or frequent transverse lathing.
• If they become fixed large canvases(roofing iron, metal tiles, slate, etc.), then they can be overlapped with directly installed rafters.
• When the system under the covering material is ready, it is recommended to lay waterproofing on it. In the first case, plywood is covered with it, in the second, it is fixed to the rafters.
• The roofing material is laid on top of the waterproofing material, starting from the bottom of the rafter system and rising to the top. If it is necessary to combine the roof, then when joining, the top row of the extension roof is slipped under the last row of the roof slope of the main building.
• If the roof is adjacent top part roof to the wall or the front part of the roof, then the joint between them must be waterproofed.
• When the roof over the erected extension is ready, you can begin to insulate the walls and floor.

Prices for metal tiles

Metal tiles

Insulating the extension from the inside

If the room is residential, then reliable thermal insulation is indispensable. If the ceiling is already sheathed and insulated, then you can proceed to insulating the floor.

Floor insulation on beams

If floor beams were installed on a columnar foundation for the floor, then the work proceeds as follows:

• Transverse logs made of smaller bars are attached to the floor beams.
• It is recommended to install a subfloor on the joists; in this case, it is better to lay the boards for it as a continuous flooring, otherwise the heat will be blown out of the house.

• Next, the entire rough coating is coated with a fairly thick clay solution, and after drying, a vapor barrier film is laid on it.
• Place tightly between the joists mineral wool, expanded clay or slag is poured.

• On top, the insulation is again covered with a vapor barrier, and a wooden floor made of boards or plywood is laid on it.
• A decorative coating can be immediately laid on the plywood, or an infrared film floor can be installed underneath it.

Concrete floor

A concrete floor can be insulated as follows:

• Mineral wool laid between the fixed on concrete base lag and then covered with boards or plywood.
• One of the “warm floor” systems (electric or water), which fits into the final leveling screed;
• Infrared film laid on a thin thermo-reflective substrate, and covered with a decorative coating;
• Dry screed and gypsum fiber slabs.

When the floors are insulated, you can move on to thermal insulation of the walls.

Frame walls

• For internal insulation The walls use mineral wool produced in mats. They are conveniently laid between the frame bars. This work is simple and can be done fairly quickly.
• When the walls are covered with insulation, it is covered with a vapor barrier film, securing it to the bars with staples.
• Then the wall can be covered with natural wooden clapboard, OSB boards or plywood, plasterboard or gypsum plasterboard - there are a lot of options, there is plenty to choose from.

Expanded polystyrene can also be used as wall insulation, but environmental and performance it is much worse than that of high-quality mineral wool.

Brick walls

Brick walls are usually finished on the inside with plaster or plasterboard, and insulation is carried out on the outside, but it is also done differently.

Insulation, if space allows, can be carried out in the same way as in a frame building, by securing bars to the walls and laying mineral wool between them, and then covering the structure with plasterboard slabs. Wallpaper or any other decorative material can be glued to this coating.

To do everything right, you need to study in detail each stage of the construction of the extension and adhere to the developed technologies. If there is no confidence in your capabilities, there is a clear lack of skills and experience in construction, it is better to entrust this sufficient difficult work qualified craftsmen.

Solving the housing problem if you have your own private house is much easier than in a city apartment. The best option is to make an extension that can be used for a variety of purposes:

• full-fledged living space - additional room;
• living space with an attic (if the extension is two-story);
• utility room - its own pantry, which can largely replace a cellar;
• a spacious terrace or veranda where you can relax with the whole family;
• garage for cars.

Below we will discuss the basics of technology and step by step instructions creating an extension to wooden house.

Before choosing a specific building material and technology for constructing an extension, it is important to clearly define the purpose of the room. Perhaps you should immediately plan to create an extension in which it will be possible to live year-round - in case the family expands or a large number of guests arrive.

Types of extensions

There are several types of extensions to a wooden house. They differ in material, as well as installation features:

1. frame extensions;
2. from cylindrical timber;
3. made of brick;
4. from cinder block.

Before erecting a structure, it is important to take into account all the nuances that may affect the choice of materials and the specific type of extension:

Do right choice of a specific extension project means correctly correlating the purpose of this structure, the features of the house to which it is attached, with the technology and material of manufacture. To do this, it is important to understand how each type of such structure is built.

Do-it-yourself frame extension: step-by-step instructions and video

Frame extension has a number of advantages:

• the design is quite simple, and if everything is calculated correctly, it is quite possible to do it yourself;
• it is erected much faster than brick and cinder block structures;
• The design is quite light in weight and does not require special effort during work;
• on thermal insulation, durability and others consumer qualities frame extension to the house is not inferior to others types of structures.

PLEASE NOTE. If you intend to build a two-story extension, it is worth considering this option - the structure is lightweight and will not create excessive pressure on the ground, so the risk of subsidence is noticeably reduced.

Preparation for construction

On preparatory stage it is important to solve the following problems:

• What will the frame material be? wooden beams or metal profiles.
• What type of extension will be connected to the main building?
• Accurately calculate all dimensions of the structure and develop a detailed drawing.
• Collect everything necessary materials and tools.

First of all, it is important to decide what type of structure will be built - as a continuation of the house with an increase in the main roof to install a single roof, or as an adjacent building.

It is clear that the second case will be cheaper, simpler and faster - the extension will simply be adjacent to the wall. You can make access from the house directly into it if you make an appropriate hole and install a door.

A diagram of the connection between the structure and the house is presented below.

Structurally, this solution consists of a roof placed on supports. The roof is standardly made of rafters and support boards. For a longer service life, it is advisable to insulate it and lay out a layer of waterproofing. As a rule, it is based on a regular strip foundation.

Interface with the main part of the house occurs at 2 points:

• wall;
• roof.

The connection in each of them has its own characteristics, which will be described below. Preliminary sketch of the extension, as well as practical advice things to consider before starting work:

At the same time, for the roof of the extension it is better to choose a material that is elastic enough to make the necessary corrections. You can purchase corrugated sheeting (height within 1 cm) or soft tiles.

In this sense, slate or traditional ceramic tiles and metal tiles are not suitable.

The frame is made of wood or metal. In this case, all parts should consist of only one type of material - then the extension is more reliable and lasts longer.

PLEASE NOTE. Even if the house is in good condition, but quite old, the rate of its subsidence will be several times higher than the subsidence of the extension. Accordingly, it is better not to use a rigid type of connection of the structure to the main wall. In this case, another type of installation is used - “groove-ridge”.

As for tools, you don’t need any special equipment: it is important to have a screwdriver, a saw, pliers, a building level and other tools for working with wood.

Installation work must be carried out by at least two people - some stages will require joint efforts.

Laying the foundation

The first stage of work is laying the foundation. Since in the vast majority of cases, the construction of a house does not involve the construction of a foundation for an extension, the foundation must not only be laid correctly, but also reliably connected to the main foundation.

PLEASE NOTE. If you are designing the construction of a newly built house, it is better to take into account the extension right away. It can be made after some time, but laying the foundation along with the base of the main building is technically correct option. In this case, the house and the extension will be a single whole, which will ensure their reliability.

The main requirements for the base of the extension are the following:

• reliability – stable maintenance of the weight of the structure without subsidence: especially important for extensions made of heavy materials or two-story structures;
• maximum identity with the main foundation in terms of material and laying depth;
• the most complete adhesion to the main foundation.

Most often, strip foundations are chosen for extensions, since they are quite capable of coping with such loads. However, installation features always depend on the type of soil. You can lay monolithic foundations, made of brick or concrete blocks, and fill them with drainage materials.

Schematic diagrams of the bases are presented in the figure.

The technology for constructing a strip foundation for an extension does not differ from the usual one. In short, a trench is dug, reinforced and filled with concrete.

Connecting the foundation to the main one

This is the most critical stage. which needs special attention. Traditionally, two types of connections are used:

• "tape-tape";
• "slab-slab".

According to the “tape-to-tape” type, the stages of work will be as follows:

1. On the installation side of the extension, a trench is dug corresponding to the depth of the main foundation.
2. Next, a hole half a meter in diameter is drilled at the base of the house - for the corners of the foundation of the extension. For all other parts, the hole corresponds to the diameter of the reinforcement at a depth of 2/3.
3. The reinforcement is driven into the foundation of the house; a wooden wedge is used for this.
4. The foundation of the extension is formed using the driven reinforcement.

Installation according to the “slab-slab” scheme is possible in 2 cases:

• the width of the main foundation allows for appropriate work (from 450 mm);
• the slab protrudes from the base (at least 300 mm).

Thanks to an extension, it is often possible to solve another important problem - strengthening the old foundation and thereby supporting a sagging house. Visual videos instructions:

Features of laying the foundation in the case of an old house:

Installation of flooring in an extension

Correctly making the floor in the future room is important from the point of view of 2 factors:

• thermal insulation;
• surface evenness.

It is important to make a high-quality floor, especially in cases where the extension to the house will be used as an additional room with the possibility of year-round use.

The strip foundation allows you to install both a concrete floor and make it out of wood. In the case of a columnar base, it is only possible to produce a wooden covering.

Concrete floor

The sequence of technology for laying this floor looks like this:

The concrete surface is quite cold, so this floor needs careful insulation, especially in the northern regions.

Wooden floor

On a columnar or strip foundation, a floor created on the basis of wooden floors. It needs additional treatment to prevent rotting, but wood flooring is much warmer than concrete.

The installation sequence for a wooden floor looks like this:

1. If an extension to a house is being built as a permanent structure, then preparatory work for laying sand, crushed stone or expanded clay, as in the case of a concrete floor.
2. A roofing felt substrate is placed on the foundation.
3. Load-bearing beams are laid on it. If the foundation is columnar, then they are mounted directly on the pillars, the length is adjusted in accordance with the interval. If the foundation is strip, it is important to install intermediate pillars at a certain interval or use long beams if the extension is small in area.
4. A wooden covering is mounted on the beams.

All wooden parts must be carefully treated with varnish to prevent rotting.

A clear example of installing a wooden floor in a cinder block extension is shown in the video.

Frame installation

The next stage is associated with the direct construction of the frame structure. To do this, first of all you need to install strapping beam. If it is assumed that the wall thickness will be 200 mm, then the dimensions of the end bar will be 25-40 mm, as shown in the detailed diagram.

The end result is a design that looks something like this.

Cutting out the groove in the base can be done completely or incompletely. Can be jointed without cutting using a steel angle.

The lower harness is performed in several stages:

1. The nest is mounted in the insert.
2. The overlay is nailed into the base.
3. The support post is secured with a bracket.

The top trim is formed for reliable installation of the floor beams, as shown in the diagram.

PLEASE NOTE. The interval between vertical supports should be at least 50-60 cm, since in this case it will be possible to easily lay insulation materials (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, ecowool, etc.). In addition, there is no practical need for a more frequent arrangement of racks.

The general design of the frame is shown in the diagram.

The construction of walls occurs according to the following algorithm:

• Installation of a pre-fabricated lower trim on the foundation. The harness is screwed using dowels.

A waterproofing layer - foamed polyethylene, roofing felt or other material - must be placed between the piping and the foundations.

• Vertical beams are nailed to the wall of the house if rigid fastening of two structures is expected. If you just need to build a nearby building, then first make corner posts with temporary fastening.
• Vertical bars are installed. Their height is selected depending on the number of storeys of the structure, as well as on the method of connection to the main roof of the house.
• Next, the top trim is mounted.
• The last stage in installation is making holes for windows and doors.

ADVICE. If you plan to build a large extension with a large number of beams, then it is more convenient to assemble the frame separately, installing all the beams on the lower frame. In this case, there is no need to fasten each element using temporary slopes.

Assembling the roof and connecting it to the main roof

Installation of rafters is carried out in the same way as for a regular roof, however, the need to connect the roof with the roof of the house gives rise to a number of features of this work.

IN general view finished design can be schematically depicted as follows.

After erecting the frame, the roof material of the house on the side of the extension must be disassembled so that the rafters appear. It is to them that the connecting rafters of the extension are mounted. Installation is carried out according to the principle of a rigid triangle, while it is important to place an additional beam in front of the acute corner (shown by arrows in the figure). These elements also serve additional measure protection during snowfalls, which is why they are also called snow supports.

The sequence of actions for installing the roof can be briefly described as follows:

1. The rafters from the extension are mounted with top harness frame.
2. The upper end of the rafters is connected to a purlin, which is pre-installed on the roof or attached directly to the roof rafters.

Video installation features

PLEASE NOTE. You should not connect the rafters of the extension to the house in a rigid manner. This can damage the structure due to uneven rates of shrinkage of the main room and the extension. The optimal solution to this problem is the use of a sliding structure that ensures free movement of the lower support.

Finishing and insulation of the roof

At this stage, the roof is completely finished with its sealing and insulation, as shown in the diagram.

PLEASE NOTE. If the roof of the extension simply adjoins the wall of the house, and does not organically connect with its roof, then a sealant is used for insulation, tightly closing the hole between the roof and the wall, as shown in the diagram.

Construction and insulation of walls

One of the last stages is the construction of walls and their insulation. An extension is a durable structure, and even if it is used only for economic purposes, it is important to create enough good insulation so that temperature changes cannot damage internal surfaces walls and ceiling.

The structure of the wall can be schematically represented as follows.

In fact, this is the final stage of the construction itself. Next, the following work should be done:

• finishing work inside the extension:
• exterior cladding of the building;
• creating a transition to the house;
• production of windows and doors in the building;
• carrying out all necessary communications.

All wooden structures it is important to treat with special solutions that prevent rotting and harmful effects temperature changes.

Timber extension

The fundamental stages of constructing an extension (pouring the foundation, constructing walls and installing the roof with subsequent insulation and finishing works) do not depend on the choice of specific construction material. However, depending on it, their own technologies are selected, which differ markedly from each other.

Construction of the foundation

In the case of an extension made of timber (profiled or round), the differences begin already at the stage of laying the foundation. Since the weight of the future extension will be significantly greater than the weight of the frame analogue, accordingly, the base needs to be more reliable.

Often a tiled foundation or a pile foundation is used, less often a strip foundation (for small extensions it is quite suitable). In any case, it is necessary that it sits for at least 1 year.

From the point of view of simplicity and cost reduction of work, the most the best option there will be creation pile foundation, which can be built independently of the main foundation of the house.

Video - basic technology for installing a pile foundation

Walling

Building walls is quite simple from a technology point of view. The only drawback of the beam is that it is quite heavy, and at least two people need to work with it.

The fastening materials used are:

metal staples and plates;

• brackets;
• steel corners;
• self-tapping screws, screws, nails.

Technology for laying round timber when building an extension to a house:

Other works

The technology of wall construction, insulation and finishing is not fundamentally different from that described earlier.

In the case of building a structure from timber, two-story structures can be easily made. Of course in this case special requirements presented to the foundation and floors.

Brick extension

Brick extensions to a wooden house are built less frequently. They are great for living, they can also be used as a utility room.

Most often used in such cases monolithic foundation. In this case, the brick structure can serve as the basis for the construction of a second similar floor or attic. Installation of floor and roof technology does not have fundamental differences from those discussed above.

Cinder block extension

And another cheaper one quick option construction of an extension to a wooden or other house - from cinder blocks (foam blocks, gas blocks are also used). Such a room can serve as an additional room, but is most often used for household purposes.

The construction of a cinder block structure occurs very quickly due to large sizes building material. This option is great if the owners want to make a garage for a car or an ordinary canopy or veranda.

And finally, a short video overview of the main stages of constructing a frame extension to a wooden house.

To protect against dampness extension flooring it is necessary to arrange reliable waterproofing of floors, which protects the overlying layers from penetration groundwater. Preparation is carried out depending on the type of soil, if necessary, excavating it to the required depth. For example, wet soils have a soft base, so concrete preparation soft base arranged on a bedding layer of sand 200÷300mm thick and crushed stone at least 40mm thick. For device floors in the extension in residential buildings, crushed stone is pressed into the ground with a tamper or roller until a roller weighing approximately 70 kg leaves traces of passage on the ground. It is a good idea to saturate the crushed stone bed with a uniform, continuous layer of hot bitumen primer about 6 mm thick, on top of which you can lay a carpet of roll or film waterproofing materials.
Using compacted crushed stone preparation, an underlying layer of M-300 concrete is made. And in this case, it is advisable to introduce special hydrophobic additives into the concrete composition to ensure increased water resistance of the floors. The thickness of the concrete layer is taken depending on the planned loads on the floors. If in the annex to residential building no production equipment will be installed; floors can be approximately 100mm thick. The laying of the concrete mixture must be carried out continuously: the interval between the completion of compaction of one layer and the laying of the next layer should not exceed 1 hour. Special attention should be given to compacting the concrete at the junctions of the bottoms and walls, as well as at the fittings and embedded parts available, if necessary. By concrete preparation penetrating waterproofing can be done.
Then the floors are covered with heated bitumen with a layer thickness of at least 2 mm. After this, a coating of waterproofing or other similar material is spread in strips over the unhardened primer layer, connecting the strips with an overlap of 100÷200 mm and coating the seam with bitumen. If the groundwater level is high, then it is advisable to then apply a second layer of bitumen mastic with a thickness of at least 5 mm to the floor, leveling it using a rack.
On top of the hardened bitumen waterproofing, without violating its integrity, arrange a thermal insulation layer. The materials specified in the question can also be used as insulation, the layer thickness of which depends on the required conditions.
On top of the heat-insulating layer, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing carpet on the walls at the factory and make a protective reinforced cement-sand floor screed with a thickness of at least 50 mm. In this case, the reinforcement must have a protective concrete layer of at least 30 mm. Without allowing the cement-sand screed to dry completely, it is necessary to “ironize” it - grouting the top layer of the floor with dry cement.
Unfortunately, the message does not indicate which flooring planned for the future - you are not going to walk barefoot on concrete floors. Therefore, if you are going to lay laminate, parquet or some other material, then to prevent moisture from the concrete base from penetrating into the floor covering, you must first lay film waterproofing.
The foundation for non-load-bearing internal partitions in a residential building can be made as a shallow strip foundation, which is a concrete or reinforced concrete strip. The tape is placed under interior walls building, maintaining the same cross-sectional shape along the entire perimeter of the foundation. To connect it to the foundation under the outer walls, you can use reinforcement pins, which are placed in holes drilled in the “old” foundation.
To construct the foundation, dig a trench 500÷700mm deep, at the bottom of which a sand backfill 200÷300mm thick is made, and on top of it a crushed stone layer 150÷200mm thick. The sand must be thoroughly compacted after wetting it. Having installed the formwork, pour concrete into the foundation strip, which should be 200÷300mm above the ground level. To increase the strength characteristics, steel reinforcement can be placed in the foundation body.
The width of such a foundation depends on the thickness of the partitions, as well as whether the floor beams will rest on it.

Over time, some private buildings require expansion for various reasons. For example, an increase in the number of people sitting, installing a sewer system into the house, or the need to close the front door from direct exposure to cold. Therefore, there is a need for an additional room, expanding the kitchen, creating a room for a bathroom, or simply building a veranda.

DIY house extension

A do-it-yourself extension to a house can be made of wood, brick, or a combination that includes several building materials.

Premises requirements

To avoid having to make additional changes to the attached room, it is better to immediately think through all the nuances of the extension, since each of them requires a special approach.

If you need to add another living room to the house, you will have to try, since this work is almost equivalent to building a small house. The floors, walls and ceiling of the building must be well insulated, otherwise the heating installed in it will not be effective - this is one of the main conditions for a living space. The second important condition for normal living is the absence of dampness in the room, which means. Reliable waterproofing is needed.

When constructing these premises, before installing the foundation, utilities are brought to the construction site - in particular, sewer pipes. You may have to install the water supply separately.

In addition, it is also worth paying attention to the insulation of all elements of the structure, think about reliable waterproofing floor.

Veranda is light structure, which serves mainly to protect the main entrance to the house from wind and rain or is used for summer recreation. It can be closed, have a door and one or more windows. or it can be completely open, that is, it consists of a flooring, low walls and a roof raised on pillars.

This structure does not require special insulation, but waterproofing for the foundation will still have to be done.

Construction of the foundation for the extension

The foundation for the extension can be strip, made of brick or stone blocks, or columnar. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. To settle on one of them, you need to find out how each structure works and choose the one that is more suitable for a particular extension.

Information about building the foundation

Strip foundation

So, the strip foundation is arranged in the following sequence:

• First you need to mark and trace the place where the extension will be installed. This is done using a rope. which is stretched on the ground and secured with pegs.

Trench for strip foundation

• Next, following the markings, a trench is dug to the same depth as the foundation of the entire house. Before pouring concrete, it would be a good idea to secure the reinforcement that connects the foundations of the main building and the extension.
• The width of the trench should be 100 - 150 mm greater than the planned wall thickness.
• After the trench has been dug, further preparation begins. First, the bottom is filled with a sand cushion 100 - 120 mm thick. It must be compacted thoroughly.
• The next layer is filled with crushed stone or broken brick, which is also compacted with a hand tamper.
• Next, waterproofing is laid in the trench along the entire perimeter, which should extend to the ground surface by 40 - 50 cm, since it should cover not only the inside of the foundation, but also the formwork for its above-ground part.
• A welded reinforcement structure is installed on the waterproofing film, which should follow the shape of the foundation, and over its entire height.
• Then the reinforcement is poured with a rough concrete mortar of cement and gravel to ⅓ of the height of the trench, and after this layer hardens, the next one is poured to one-half of the remaining height.

Installation of formwork for strip foundations

• After pouring this layer, you can start installing wooden formwork to form the above-ground part of the foundation - the plinth. The waterproofing film is left inside the formwork, spread along its walls and secured on top of them so that it does not slide into the concrete.
• Concrete is poured into the prepared formwork to the top. Then the solution is pierced in several places with a shovel so that there are no air cavities left inside it. You can lightly tap the formwork - such vibration will help the concrete to compact as much as possible.

The process of pouring a strip foundation

• Having completed pouring the foundation, the concrete is leveled to the required level and left to dry, spraying with water daily to strengthen it.
• After the concrete has completely hardened, the formwork is removed and the foundation is waterproofed from the outside.
• Before starting the construction of walls, it is recommended to additionally cover the foundation with waterproofing compounds or roll materials. For this process, liquid rubber, tar, bitumen mastic and roofing felt are used.

Strip foundation requires waterproofing

• The space inside the strip foundation can also be equipped in different ways - with a concrete screed or a flooring of floor beams and joists with a wooden floor installed over them.

- construction of an extension to the house on a strip foundation

Columnar foundation

In addition to a strip foundation, a columnar foundation can be constructed, which is built from brick or concrete, or a combination of these materials. This option is mainly used for the construction of verandas or additional living rooms, since communications associated with water supply or drainage in an uninsulated or even open underground will require additional thermal insulation.

The extension will be built on a columnar foundation

A columnar foundation is most often installed if it is planned to install a boardwalk.

The work is carried out in several stages:

• The first step is marking the area chosen for the extension. The pillars should be one and a half meters apart from each other.

Approximate diagram of a columnar foundation

• Excavations are dug for each pillar separately. Their depth should be 500 - 600 mm, with a square side of 500 × 500 mm. Towards the top, the pits should widen slightly - about 100 mm on each side.

Foundation pillar installation diagram

• Next, the bottom is strengthened in the same way as when installing a strip foundation, using sand and crushed stone. lay waterproofing.
• If the support pillars will be built from brick, it is recommended to lay a layer of coarse cement mortar on the bottom. Only after waiting for it to harden do they make brickwork.
• If the pillars are concrete, a reinforcement structure and formwork are installed at the bottom of the pits to the height of the future pillar. The waterproofing film is placed inside the formwork and secured on top of it;
• Concrete is poured into the formwork in layers. Each layer must set well before the next one is poured;
• The top of the column is well leveled and sprinkled with water daily until it hardens completely;
• After the pillars are ready, the formwork is removed from them and they are waterproofed with roofing felt, which is glued to heated bitumen mastic.
• The gap remaining between the soil and the pillars is backfilled, compacting every 100 - 150 mm of backfilled soil mixed with crushed stone.
• Several layers of roofing material are laid on each of the pillars - it is necessary for waterproofing the wooden blocks that will be laid on top of the pillars.

Installation of the base floor of the extension

If a strip foundation is chosen, both wooden and concrete floors can be installed on it. A columnar foundation without lintels requires the installation of a wooden floor.

Concrete floor

To make a reliable and warm screed floor inside a strip foundation, work must be carried out in stages, adhering to a certain technology.

• To begin with, excess soil is selected from inside the finished strip foundation. It is first loosened and then removed to a depth of approximately 250 - 350 mm.
• A ten-centimeter sand cushion is poured and compacted onto the bottom of the resulting pit. Crushed stone can be laid on top of it, but to insulate the screed, instead of crushed stone, expanded clay is used, poured in a layer of 15 - 20 cm.

Preparing to pour a concrete floor

• Expanded clay is leveled, and a reinforcing grid is laid on it. After its installation, a system of beacons is installed on top at the selected horizontal level. Some rooms, for example, a bathroom or an open terrace, may require a certain slope of the surface to allow water that falls on the floor to flow smoothly to the drainage system.
• Next, cement mortar is laid out on the prepared surface and leveled using the rule. After a day, it can be covered with plastic film - then the concrete will ripen more evenly, which will give it additional strength.

When the walls of the extension are erected, any decorative covering or wooden floor can be laid on the resulting concrete base.

Floor on wooden beams

• Floor beams are wooden blocks of fairly large thickness, about 150 × 100 mm in cross section. You cannot skimp on them, since the overall strength of the floor will depend on their reliability.

Load-bearing floor beams on a columnar foundation

• The beams are laid on pillars or a strip foundation, on top of a made roofing felt substrate, and can be secured to the concrete in different ways - using through fasteners, corners and other metal devices. The beams at the intersection points are also fastened together using strong corners.

The beams are laid on a roofing felt substrate

• They will hold securely. since the wooden flooring of the “black” and “white” floor also serves as a kind of binding fastening.

: construction of a frame extension with a wooden floor

Construction of extension walls

Brick or frame walls can be built on a finished strip foundation, while a columnar foundation is mainly used for frame buildings. If you plan to make brickwork on the pillars, then you will have to make additional concrete lintels between the pillars.

Frame walls

• The frame for future walls is erected from timber and secured to the previously installed crown beams. The beams can be attached to the beams separately, but sometimes it is much more convenient to assemble the wall elements in a horizontal position, on a flat area, and then install them in a vertical position already assembled.

One of the options for a frame extension

• To connect the frame to the wall of the house, a perfectly accurate vertical marking is made on it, along which a separate block or assembled frame element will be fixed.

Compound wooden parts frame

• For reliability, all bars are connected to each other with metal corners.

Installation of wall frame

• Having installed the entire frame of the extension, it is better to immediately sheathe it with boards or plywood (OSB) from the outside. Sheathing will immediately make the structure more rigid.

It is better to immediately sheathe the outside of the frame with boards or plywood

• The upper horizontal beam running along the house is attached to the main wall using reliable metal corners or anchors.
• The walls are insulated after the roof is installed.

: another example of building a light extension to a house

Brick walls

How to make brick walls for an extension?

Brick extension

• Before you start building brick walls, you need to carefully check the horizontalness of the foundation surface and, if necessary, level it to perfection. If the base is uneven, the masonry may crack due to deformation during shrinkage.
• It should be noted that brick extensions are best done to a brick house. To connect the extension to the main wall, during the construction of the walls, holes are drilled in it to two-thirds of the depth, every two or three rows of masonry. Reinforcement is embedded in them, which should protrude from the wall by about half a meter. It should be in the seams of the future masonry. To ensure that the seams in these rows are not excessively wide, the reinforcement must be chosen not too thick, or you will have to make a recess in the bricks of the row on which the reinforcement will be laid.
• If a brick extension is installed against a wooden wall, then a hole is drilled through it, into which reinforcement with a transverse stopper is installed from inside the house, which will hold it in the wall. The reinforcement is also installed as the wall is erected, every two or three rows.

Brick wall laying

• Before starting laying, string is stretched along the future wall. by which it will be easy to control the horizontality of the rows, and the verticality is constantly verified using a plumb line.
• The thickness of the walls will depend on what function the extension will perform. If this is a living room, then the masonry should be at least one or two bricks. If the room will serve as a veranda or utility room, then half-brick masonry will be sufficient.
• Having built brick walls, they are connected along the entire top with a concrete belt. Formwork is made for it, a reinforcement structure is laid in it and poured with concrete mortar. After the solution has completely hardened, the formwork is removed from the belt, and you can begin installing the ceiling.

It should be noted that building brick walls is not as easy as it seems, therefore, if you have no experience in this work, it is better to entrust this process to a qualified mason or choose another type of wall.

Extension ceiling and roofing

After the walls are erected, it is necessary to make a ceiling. It will require beams. which are installed on the top of the walls, at a distance of 60 - 70 cm from each other, and secured with special corners.

If the beams are laid on a brick building, they can be embedded in a concrete belt, having first wrapped the edge of each of them with roofing felt.

Ceiling beams

The next step is to line the beams with boards or thick plywood, on which insulation will be laid on top, between the beams.

Construction information gable roof do it yourself for an extension - link.

The roof of the extension can have different designs, but generally the lean-to option is chosen, which is worth considering.

Approximate diagram of the roof of the extension

• This structure consists of rafters on which the roof is laid. Installing this type of roof is quite simple. the main thing is to choose the right slope angle. It should be no less than 25 - 30 degrees - this is necessary so that precipitation in winter does not linger on the surface, otherwise it can simply damage it.
• Having determined the slope angle, a mark is made on the wall or façade of the roof in the form of a horizontal, even line along which the block supporting the rafters in the upper part will be attached. The lower support for them will be the previously laid floor beams or the edge of the wall. The rafters should extend beyond the boundaries of the constructed walls by 250 - 300 mm, in order to protect the walls as much as possible from rainwater.
• The rafters are also secured using metal corners.
• It will be more difficult to resolve the issue of roof slope if the extension is installed on the side on which the slope of the main building of the house is located, since there will simply be nothing to secure the transverse beam there. That's why. It may be necessary to remove several bottom rows (sheets) of roofing material from the roof of the house in order to use its beams to secure the rafter system and consolidate the overall covering.
• You need to decide in advance what kind of roofing will be laid on top of the rafter system. If it is a soft roof or flexible tiles, then a solid material, for example, plywood or frequent transverse lathing, is laid on top of the rafters and secured.
• If large sheets will be fixed (roofing iron, metal tiles, slate, etc.), then they can be overlapped with directly installed rafters.
• When the system under the covering material is ready, it is recommended to lay waterproofing on it. In the first case, plywood is covered with it, in the second, it is fixed to the rafters.
• The roofing material is laid on top of the waterproofing material. starting from the bottom of the rafter system and going up. If it is necessary to combine the roof, then when joining, the top row of the extension roof is slipped under the last row of the roof slope of the main building.
• If the roof adjoins the upper part of the roof to the wall or the front part of the roof, then the joint between them must be waterproofed.
• When the roof over the erected extension is ready, you can begin to insulate the walls and floor.

Insulating the extension from the inside

If the room is residential, then reliable thermal insulation is indispensable. If the ceiling is already sheathed and insulated. then you can move on to insulating the floor.

Floor insulation on beams

How to insulate the floor of an extension built on beams?

If floor beams were installed on a columnar foundation for the floor, then the work proceeds as follows:

• Transverse logs made of smaller bars are attached to the floor beams.
• It is recommended to install a subfloor on the joists; in this case, it is better to lay the boards for it as a continuous flooring, otherwise the heat will be blown out of the house.

Subfloor before insulation

• Next, the entire rough coating is coated with a fairly thick clay solution, and after drying, a vapor barrier film is laid on it.
• Mineral wool is placed tightly between the joists and expanded clay or slag is poured.

Laying insulation between floor joists

• On top, the insulation is again covered with a vapor barrier, and a wooden floor made of boards or plywood is laid on it.
• A decorative coating can be immediately laid on the plywood, or an infrared film floor can be installed underneath it.

Concrete floor

A concrete floor can be insulated as follows:

• Mineral wool laid between joists fixed to a concrete base and then covered with boards or plywood.
• One of the “warm floor” systems (electric or water), which fits into the final leveling screed;
• Infrared film. laid on a thin thermally reflective substrate and covered with a decorative coating;
• Dry screed and gypsum fiber boards.

When the floors are insulated, you can move on to thermal insulation of the walls.

After the floor is ready, a floor screed will be required. We recommend that you read the information on dry floor screed.

Frame walls

• For internal wall insulation, mineral wool produced in mats is used. They are conveniently laid between the frame bars. This work is simple and can be done fairly quickly.
• When the walls are covered with insulation, it is covered with a vapor barrier film. securing it to the bars with staples.
• Then the wall can be covered with natural wooden paneling, OSB boards or plywood, plasterboard or gypsum fiber board - there are a lot of options, there is plenty to choose from.

Insulation of frame walls

Expanded polystyrene can also be used as wall insulation, but its environmental and performance qualities are much worse than those of high-quality mineral wool.

Brick walls

Brick walls are usually finished on the inside with plaster or plasterboard, and insulation is carried out on the outside, but it is also done differently.

Insulation, if space allows, can be carried out in the same way as in a frame building, by securing bars to the walls and laying mineral wool between them, and then covering the structure with plasterboard slabs. Wallpaper or any other decorative material can be glued to this coating.

How to insulate brick walls?

In addition, familiarize yourself with the material - sawdust as insulation.

To do everything right, you need to study in detail each stage of the construction of the extension and adhere to the developed technologies. If you don’t have confidence in your capabilities, or you feel a clear lack of skills and experience in construction, it is better to entrust this rather complex work to qualified craftsmen.

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