When starting an apartment renovation, you should understand that you cannot do without plastering the walls, since they are never even. This is not a simple matter and requires certain skills, so you must first become familiar with the rules and technology for carrying out this type of work.

Why are walls plastered?

Plastering is important process, which is necessary not only for leveling walls, but also has a number of other functions:

• reliably protects against moisture and air entrapment;
• increases sound and thermal insulation;
• gives strength brickwork;
• serves as a decorative covering.

If plastering is carried out correctly, the walls will look aesthetically pleasing and neat.

Preparation of material: what you will need for work

Before starting plastering, you should prepare necessary tool and material. Need to decide on the look plaster mixture, since today there are a large number of them, it happens:

• cement-sand;
• plaster;
• cement-lime.

When choosing, you need to take into account the type of wall, durability, and when finishing the apartment, do not forget about environmental safety (it is better to choose water-based ones). If there are concrete, aerated concrete or brick walls A cement-lime mixture is suitable. There is a universal type - cement-sand, it is suitable for plastering different walls. The most popular at present is considered to be gypsum mixture. It is easy to use and the quality of the walls is excellent. But it is expensive and cannot be used in rooms with high humidity.

For work you should stock up:

• dowels, painting beacons, self-tapping screws;
• a screwdriver, a hammer, a grinder, scissors for cutting metal;
• building level, plumb line, tape measure;
• thread and pencil;
• spatulas - narrow and wide;
• brush, roller, iron;
• mortar, putty, primer;
• aluminum rule;
• a hammer drill with a set of drills and a mixer attachment;
• a container for mixing the solution;
• work clothes and gloves.

After preparing everything you need, you can start working.

Plastering walls with cement-sand mortar

Cement-sand mixture is universal and can be used for walls different types(concrete, brick, wood). It has been used as a repair material for a long time. This mixture is cheap, and the process itself is quite simple and can be done independently. In addition, only this solution is suitable for wet areas. Consists of cement, sand and various additives for strength.

Despite its simplicity, it is heavy and not easy to work with. In addition, when using this mixture it is impossible to create a perfectly flat surface, so it is not suitable for painting. It is most often used when future finishing with ceramic tiles is planned.

If you decide to make the solution yourself, then the proportions are as follows: 3-4 parts of sand are added to 1 part of cement (depending on the brand of cement). Water should be poured little by little until you get a homogeneous mass.

Spraying the walls

Spray is the first layer of coating. It is applied with a thickness of 5-10 mm. The thickness depends on the smoothness of the wall; the smoother it is, the thinner the layer. If plastering occurs on a mesh, then the thickness is 1 cm.

The mixture is applied using two spatulas, wide and narrow. The solution is applied to a wide spatula, take the mixture from it with a narrow one and apply it to the wall using pressing movements. The spray is applied from bottom to top. Since the layer is considered a preparatory layer, it is not leveled and should be laid immediately without major irregularities.

Priming

Primer is a plaster coating that is covered with a second layer. Its composition is denser and has a dough-like consistency. The application thickness is 1 cm, this layer must be well leveled. If this does not work in one layer, apply a second one. Be sure to let the first layer dry completely before applying the next one.

The soil can be spread with a trowel or spread with a spatula. After application, it should be leveled using a plaster rule. It is worth noting that without the use of guide beacons, it is difficult to perfectly level the plaster.

Covering

The last layer is the covering. The solution for this layer must be semi-liquid, applied 5 mm thick with a wide spatula, the surface must be leveled in advance.

When applying the mixture and smoothing it, plaster collects on the tool; it must be removed in time and mixed with fresh composition.

Technology of plastering walls with dry gypsum mixtures

The dry gypsum mixture is simple and easy to apply. Unlike cement mortars, gypsum mortars have some advantages:

• even a thick layer of it dries quickly;
• plastic, therefore less likely to crack;
• has good adhesion, suitable for use on any surface;
• easy to prepare and convenient to use.

Plastering walls with a gypsum mixture includes several stages:

1. Surface preparation – cleaning the walls from dust and dirt, removing uneven surfaces. Then coat with a primer, preferably acrylic. If the wall is new, one coat of primer is enough; with an old surface, two. The primer should dry within 24 hours.
2. Installation of beacons - they are attached to the gypsum mixture perpendicular to the horizon with a distance of 1 m. Using a stretched cord (from one edge of the wall to the other), it is determined how far the beacon protrudes forward and its position is adjusted. After this, the gap between the lighthouse and the wall is filled with mortar.
3. Prepare the mixture according to the instructions. The mixture is poured cold water and stir until smooth. The solution will set faster if diluted with hot water. It should be mixed in small volumes (10-15 kg) in order to have time to use the solution before it sets.
4. Applying the mixture - it should be applied at a time to a height of up to a meter. The solution is smoothed from the bottom up; if uneven areas are detected, the mixture is added to them and leveled again.
5. Final layer - after plastering the wall completely, the last layer of mortar is applied. This is done with a spatula, the mass is applied and the excess solution is removed with the next movement.
6. Sanding is done when all layers of the mortar are dry.

Now you can start finishing work.

Sequence of work

In order for the plaster to adhere better and last longer, you should prepare the wall. The surface is cleaned down to the base - old wallpaper and trim are removed. If cracks are found on the walls, they need to be covered, as the plaster applied to them will also crack.

Sealing cracks

There are several ways to seal cracks, which one to choose depends on its thickness and their number:

• If the crack is not wide, then most likely it is deep. Therefore, it is necessary to expand it to free up access inside. The resulting gap is cleared of dust and treated with a primer. After drying, it is covered with putty, you can use cement or gypsum.
• If there is a very narrow crack that does not go deep, it is sealed with sealant.
• To seal a wide gap, you can use foam.

Now, everything is ready for the next stage of work.

Preparing a brick wall

If the brick wall has old plaster, it should be moistened with water using a sponge, then it will come off easier. Use a spatula and hammer to carefully remove the old finish. After that, using an iron brush or a grinding machine, you need to treat the wall.

At the next stage, recesses are made between the bricks up to 7 mm. They are necessary because the plaster will fit into them and be stronger. The recesses are cleaned with a brush and a damp sponge. The process is completed by treating the wall with a primer; it should be applied in 2 layers.

How to prepare a concrete wall

It is easier to clean a concrete wall of old finishing than a brick wall, because it is smooth. The following methods can be used:

• if there is whitewash, it is moistened with a sponge and cleaned iron brush, after which the wall is washed well;
• There is another, dry method - a thick layer of paste is applied to the whitewash and when it dries, it is cleaned off along with the plaster using a spatula.

When the surface is cleaned, you need to make small notches on it; this is quite difficult, but necessary. If you do not want to make notches, you can use another method - priming the walls with a composition containing deep penetration, to which small is added quartz sand. If you feel roughness after running along the wall, then the plaster will hold tightly.

Wooden walls

Old plaster can be removed from a wooden surface very easily. The wall is tapped with a hammer and the finish crumbles. Therefore, to make it easier to remove debris, place oilcloth under the wall.

In order for the plaster solution to hold better, you should fill the slats with wood (shingles). They are packed diagonally. In addition, they play the role of beacons when leveling the surface.

If there are old slats on the wall, they must be removed, as they could be rotten or there may be insects in them. Therefore, before installing new shingles, the wooden surface should be treated with an antiseptic; this will protect against mold and insects. Having filled the slats, you need to treat them with this composition again. Instead of shingles, you can use a chain-link mesh, which is attached not to the wall itself, but to the slats. The solution can only be applied to dry walls.

Foam concrete walls

The work involved in preparing this type of wall is quite long. At the first stage, the wall is cleaned; a metal brush is needed for this. Cleaning should be done thoroughly and attention should be paid to the presence of greasy stains on the surface. Grease stains must be removed; clay is used for this. It is applied to the oily area and then removed. If this does not help and the stain remains, it is cut out and the hole is sealed with a solution.

The cleaned surface is primed in several stages. After applying the first layer, it is leveled with a spatula and allowed to dry. Then the second layer is applied. Regardless of the unevenness of the wall, the primer should not exceed 2 mm. If there are large differences, they must be eliminated by installing drywall in these areas.

The next step is to install the reinforcing mesh and secure it with dowels. Now you can start plastering.

Ways to level walls

Plaster is a material that lends itself perfectly to leveling. There are two ways to level walls when plastering.

Alignment without beacons

This method is more economical as the solution consumption is reduced. When leveling without beacons:

• putty 3-5 cm thick is applied to the cleaned and primed surface with a spatula, and then partially leveled using the rule;
• when this layer has dried, the rule is to cover the missing areas.

Displaying beacons: metal, plaster, plastic

Leveling in this way ensures uniform application of the solution. Beacons are installed from each other at a distance slightly less than the length of the rule. You should start making the first two markings at a distance of 15-20 cm from the corner. A vertical line is drawn and holes for the dowels are made on it. They are installed on self-tapping screws in the same plane. A small amount of solution is applied to the line between the fastenings, and the beacons are fixed to it. This is done by pressing the rule, the beacons are attached to the heads of the screws. The excess solution that appears is removed. After placing the beacons, you should check the evenness of the installation and, if necessary, their location is adjusted.

There are several types of lighthouses:

• Metal - galvanized iron with holes that serve as stops during plastering. Excess solution is removed as a rule. Their usual length is 300 cm, and depth is 3.6 and 10 mm. They are attached with screws.
• Plaster - using them saves time and plaster, because you will not need to pull out the beacons and seal the holes. The installation process is as follows: the dowels are attached, using a level they are installed at the desired height, they are placed on the caps metal profiles or a block of wood. A gypsum mixture is placed under the profile. After removing excess solution, the profile is removed. The resulting strip of gypsum is a beacon; such strips must be made over the entire surface.
• Plastic - they are similar to metal ones, but consist of durable plastic. Fixed to the wall with screws. Their only drawback is that they can break if hit hard by the rule.

Plaster application technique

After installing the beacons, you can begin plastering.

Please note that when applying a thick layer, the solution must be thick. If the surface absorbs moisture strongly, it must be moistened.

Plaster is applied by throwing it on the wall. It is leveled from bottom to top. Then, moving the rule from below and holding it at an angle, the excess mixture is removed. If bubbles appear on the surface, then these areas need to be redone. This should be done until the ceiling is reached. Areas near the floor and ceiling are done after the wall has dried.

To check the resulting result, the rule is applied under different angles. If there are metal beacons, they are removed and the holes from them are sealed.

If the wall has large irregularities, then the plaster is done in two layers. First rough, without leveling, and after 2 days the second, finishing.

After applying the plaster, grouting is done. In this case, the plaster used is more liquid and is better if the wall is not completely dry. The solution is applied to the powder and spread thin layer. When the wall is dry, you should go over it with a wooden float and finally sand the surface by attaching felt to the float.

How to plaster walls yourself

If you decide to plaster the walls yourself, then you should familiarize yourself with the technology and sequence of work. Study the available compositions and choose the optimal one. When making the solution, you must follow the instructions exactly.

In addition, when starting work, it is necessary to ensure appropriate conditions, there should be no: drafts, high temperature. To prevent cracks from appearing, do not apply the solution to a poorly dried previous layer. Do not dilute the solution too much, it dries quickly, and you will work slowly, because you do not have experience.

Who is better to entrust the work to?

The services of a qualified finishing specialist are quite expensive, although if you have the funds, the quality will be better and in time renovation work will complete faster.

However, if you want to save money and test your strength in this field, then go for it. Of course, the process will take a lot of time and effort, but this type You can actually do the work yourself. In addition, you will gain new skills and be proud of the results of your work.

In any case, you can’t do without plastering the walls when renovating an apartment. And it is important to do this correctly so that the money and labor invested are not in vain. And the result did not disappoint, but delighted you with the new interior.

Plastering walls is one of the stages of renovation of premises. Application of the mixture may be necessary in a new building with bare load-bearing structures or in old houses with uneven or dilapidated walls.

Non-professionals often have questions about which mixture to choose and how to apply it correctly; for this you need to know the characteristics of different types of materials and their scope of application. If a beginner takes on the job, then you should start with the basics, with what plaster is, what compositions there are, whether you can apply them yourself or entrust the work to professionals.

When choosing a material, it is necessary to take into account a number of features: the properties of the mixture itself, the characteristics of the base, and the method of application. The combination of these factors depends appearance, service life and alignment quality.

Plastering walls poses a big task - to level out the unevenness of the base wall by applying concrete or gypsum mixture. And sometimes give the surface decorative look. Depending on the composition and size of the differences, in different ways.

The main principle for choosing plaster is its purpose. It is necessary to consider where the work will take place: indoors or on the facade. What properties should the mixture have, and what is the base for finishing made of?

All plasters are divided into three large groups:

1. simple (for leveling the surface);
2. special (compositions with additives to improve individual characteristics);
3. decorative (finish coatings that do not require additional processing).

Interior plastering of house walls requires that the composition be safe and smooth out perfectly. For external work, a mixture resistant to unfavorable factors environment.

Cement

Dry mixture of cement and sand. The ratio of components in the composition is on average 1 to 2-5, respectively. Before application, mix with water to the consistency of thick sour cream.

Cement plasters are used for interior works and external. To improve plasticity and adhesion, plasticizers and PVA glue are added to the composition. When working in rooms with high humidity and outdoors, slaked lime is added to the solution.

Apply 3-5 layers. The maximum thickness of one is no more than 20 mm, optimally 10 mm. The total thickness of the coating can reach 100 mm, but reinforcement will be required.

The task of this composition is to level out unevenness for further finishing. Suitable for brick, concrete and wooden bases. Before application, prime the surface, then plaster the walls in three stages (spray, primer, cover).

It is applied manually and by machine, leveled with spatulas and a rule.

Plaster

The mixture is based on gypsum powder, fine filler and polymer additives. It does not tolerate moisture and temperature changes well, so it is used only for interior work. Sold as a dry mixture for preparing a solution with water.

The maximum layer thickness without reinforcement is 5 cm. Can be applied to any substrate. Suitable for creating flat surface for painting or wallpaper. Dries in just a few hours ready solution must be used within 40 minutes.

The technology for plastering walls with gypsum composition differs from cement. The mixture is applied in one layer, leveled with a rule, minor irregularities are corrected with a spatula.

Decorative

Mixtures decorative plaster perform two functions at once: hide minor defects and give an aesthetic appearance. No additional finishing is needed. Pigments and insoluble granules from stone, sand, and plastic are added to such compositions.

Depending on what mixture and technique of plastering the walls is chosen, a different pattern, relief, pattern or texture is obtained.

Produced on acrylic, silicone, silicate and mineral based. If you follow all the rules for plastering walls, it adheres well to any substrate. There are compositions for external and internal work.

Silicone

Silicone-based compounds are used for external and interior plaster walls The mixture remains flexible even after drying, thanks to which the surface is not afraid of sudden temperature changes and mechanical damage. It tolerates moisture well, so it is suitable for finishing bathrooms and kitchens.

The finished surface can have a “Bark beetle”, “Lamb” relief or imitate marble (Venetian). It all depends on how to plaster the walls, what tools to use and what size and shape of the solid particles in the composition.

Sgraffito

Sgraffito is not a separate type of plaster, but a method of applying it. Using this technique, you can create carved color designs. As a result, the plastered walls look like real paintings.

To create beautiful effect Pigments are added to compositions based on different bases and plaster is applied in several layers that differ in shade. Next, patterns, ornaments, and figures are cut out on the dried finish.

Decorating walls with sgraffito plaster requires skill and experience. A person who knows how to draw and work with the mixture can cope with this task.

Venetian

These mixtures imitate a smooth or textured marble surface. It contains a polymer binder or lime, pigments and mineral dust. Since the plaster needs to be applied in 5-6 layers, the work takes a lot of time. To obtain a marble pattern, the mixture is applied unevenly, gradually creating a play of shades.

Depending on how the plaster is applied to the wall, the intensity and depth of color, contrasts and texture of natural stone vary.

Textured

Textured plaster creates an imitation of stone, wood and leather. It can contain any binder and solid fillers of various fractions and shapes. The larger they are, the more pronounced and relief the pattern will be.

This plaster is used for interior and exterior finishing walls For the former, the fillers are thinner, so the texture is elegant; for the latter, the fillers are large, creating a rough relief.

The best way to plaster walls

Which plaster is best for leveling walls depends on a number of factors: the size of the differences in the base surface, resistance to moisture, type finishing coating, operating conditions.

Criterion	Cement	Plaster	Decorative
Amount of irregularities	Up to 100 mm	Up to 50 mm	From 8 to 17 mm
Moisture resistance	Yes	No	Yes
Finish coating	Suitable for tiles, wallpaper and painting (subject to puttying)	For wallpaper and painting (no puttying required)	No additional finishing needed
Terms of Use ( temperature regime, humidity)	from -50 to +80 degrees, at any humidity	From +5 to +30 degrees Celsius, only for dry, heated rooms	From -50 to +75 degrees, tolerates humid environments well
Recommended application	Facade of the building, rooms with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom, industrial buildings)	Bedroom, children's room, corridor	Depending on the type of binder, you can choose a composition for external and internal work

Important! Plastering walls in an apartment requires the mixture to be environmentally safe, so using the composition for exterior work indoors is prohibited.

Applying plaster to a wall can be done different instruments: wide and narrow spatulas, a special machine. For decorative compositions use rollers with embossed attachments, a trowel, an applicator, and brushes.

Ways to level walls

It is already clear which plaster is best to choose for leveling the walls; it remains to determine the method of applying it to the surface.

Plaster can be applied to walls in two main ways: without beacons (by eye) and using beacons. The first method involves applying and leveling the mixture with spatulas, a rule or a trowel; it is suitable if the surface has slight differences of up to 2-3 cm. The second method is more reliable and accurate. For it, a plane of metal profiles is pre-set on the walls.

You can determine the size of the differences using a plumb line or building level, and then choose which wall plastering technology is most suitable.

Plaster interior walls apartments are often performed without beacons, since the differences are usually insignificant. IN industrial buildings With high ceilings It's better to use beacons.

Required tools and materials

To plaster walls you will need a large set of tools and materials:

• A hatchet or hammer with a pick (for removing old coating or protruding parts);
• Brush (for applying primer);
• Primer composition suitable for the type of base;
• Plumb line or building level (to control the plane during work);
• Square (for drawing out corners);
• Large capacity (for mixing the solution);
• Construction mixer;
• Plaster spatula and trowel (for adding mortar to areas where there is not enough of it);
• Wide and narrow spatulas;
• Guiding beacons;
• Rule and grater (to level the layer);
• Plaster corners (for reinforcing external corners).

In order for plastering walls with your own hands to be of high quality, you need to study the technology of applying the mixture. If you are a beginner and not confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust the work to professionals than to plaster the walls again. They have all the materials for plastering walls, and they know exactly what is best for plastering walls.

Preparatory stage

Preparatory work consists of surface treatment before applying the first layer of plaster. The nature of the work is determined by the type of foundation:

1. Preparing the brick surface. For better adhesion, you need to fix the reinforcing mesh or make indentations in the mortar between the bricks. Next comes cleaning of dust and debris and priming.
2. Preparing concrete walls. If the material is not very dense, shallow cuts are made with an ax, then treated with concrete contact.
3. Foam block surfaces are coated with a deep penetration primer.
4. Preparing wooden walls for plaster. It is necessary to fill the diagonal slats in increments of 5 cm so that the solution is better retained on the surface.

There should be no large protrusions or loose old coating on the surface of the walls, metal elements, dust and debris. Once the base has been prepared and the primer has dried, you can begin the process of applying plaster.

Application technology

Plastering walls begins with preparing the solution. To do this, the dry mixture is diluted with water in the proportions recommended by the manufacturer. Concrete and brick walls are moistened with water so that the plaster takes longer to set and does not lag behind the surface.

The plastering technology includes three stages. This is the sequential application of three layers of a mixture of different thicknesses and thicknesses.

Instructions for plastering walls with your own hands:

1. Spray. This layer is the most liquid in consistency. It is thrown onto the surface using a trowel with little effort. Then they are slightly leveled with a falcon. The thickness of the plaster layer is 5-10 mm.
2. Priming. When the first layer has set, but has not yet dried, apply the second layer. It is thicker and thinner. It is placed on the falcon and applied to the wall, then leveled with a wide spatula using sweeping movements. One portion of plaster should be enough for approximately 1 square meter. area.
3. Covering. Layer thickness 2 mm. The solution should be thick. Apply to hardened soil. Its task is to level out all minor irregularities. The mixture is no longer thrown on, but spread with a spatula, pressing a sharp edge to the surface. Apply using bottom-up movements. You can move in an arc. After the mixture has set, the surface is rubbed with a trowel.

Other methods of applying plaster are also practiced. For example, in one layer, without splashing. This method is suitable for those who do not have professional skills, since only a person with experience can properly plaster walls.

Grouting plaster

The last stage of plastering is grouting. Its task is to bring the surface to perfect smoothness. Grouting of the surface must begin when the last layer of plaster has hardened. The work is carried out in stages using different tools:

1. Grout with a trowel onto the wooden surface of the set covering layer. You need to smooth out the spatula marks and bumps. Performed without pressure in a circular motion.
2. Smoothing with a felt grater using sharp, straight movements.
3. Smoothing with a grater with a rubber or metal strip. These tools prepare the surface for painting. Movements first vertically, then horizontally.

After grouting, the wall is cleaned of dust and coated with a primer. You can proceed to further finishing when the surface has dried well.

What is lighthouse plaster?

The process of leveling walls with beacons begins with installing profiles that will set the desired level.

Installation of beacons is carried out as follows:

• A self-tapping screw is screwed into the wall near the ceiling and floor, and their position is leveled using a plumb line. Their caps should be in the same plane.
• Measure the distance between the screws, subtract 5 cm and cut off a profile fragment equal to the obtained value.
• Draw a line between the screws with a pencil.
• Throw the plaster solution onto the line in 3-4 places with tubercles, press the profile into them so that its plane meets the heads of the screws. Remove the fasteners.
• Repeat the procedure at a distance of no more than 1 meter from the first beacon. Thus, a plane is created along all the walls of the room.

At this point, the installation of the beacons is completed, and you can begin to apply the first layer of the mixture. After the plaster has been completely applied, the beacons are removed and the areas where they were located are leveled.

Plastering walls with your own hands

You can apply plaster yourself if the differences are not very large and the layer of the mixture does not exceed 2-5 cm. Only mixtures for rough leveling and easy-to-work decorative ones should be applied. For example, finishing a wall Venetian plaster doing it yourself without experience is too reckless. Compositions that are difficult to work with are best left to professionals.

Some formulations can be prepared independently. Cement plaster consists only of cement and sand, knowing the required ratio of components you can prepare a mixture.

How to make plaster:

• Pour cement of at least M200 grade and 3-4 times more sand (depending on the fat content of the composition needed) into a large container or concrete mixer and mix dry;
• Pour in water in small portions until the desired consistency is obtained, stirring the mixture periodically;
• To improve plasticity, you can add a little detergent(at the rate of 30-50 ml per 5 liters of water).

The finished mixture must be used within an hour. Since plastering with your own hands can take a long time, you shouldn’t prepare a lot of mortar at once.

If we plaster ourselves, then we need to take care to protect the skin from the composition, as well as cover the furniture and floor in the room where the work is taking place.

Since plastering walls with your own hands without any experience is not easy, you can first watch a video of how the masters do it.

You can save significantly on plastering walls in an apartment only if you prepare the solution yourself and apply it yourself.

You can reduce costs a little more by using materials sparingly:

• Dilute the composition with water in small portions so that you have time to use it;
• Carefully monitor the differences in the wall; perhaps in some places it is enough to cut off the bumps and the mixture consumption will be reduced;
• Apply only two layers without covering, but this is acceptable if the differences do not exceed 1-2 cm.

Plastered walls improve the heat and sound insulation of the room, acquire a flat and smooth surface, ready for further finishing with thin coatings - wallpaper and paint. Some types of compositions also have decorative functions. You can apply the mixture in different ways, but it is important to do everything correctly, otherwise the coating will not last long.

Doing major renovation apartment, office or home, you will definitely encounter the need for plastering work. This process is very labor-intensive and requires professional skills. Therefore, it would be better to entrust this work to specialists. But if, in order to save your renovation budget, you decide to finish the walls yourself, then before mixing the solution, read the complete guide to plastering walls with your own hands given in our article.

Plastering walls can be done in several ways.

1. In the plane, using the rule (without beacons). This option will do, if the walls as a whole are quite smooth, without drops and strong deviations.
2. Alignment of walls according to beacons. Second the method will work, if the walls have significant deviations and irregularities.

Requirements for plaster

The basic requirements for the quality of plastering work are set out in SNiP III-21-73. It is especially important to know them if you decide not to do the work yourself, but to hire workers. The quality of work is divided into 3 parts: for simple, improved and high-quality plaster.

1. With simple plaster, vertical deviations are allowed no more than 3 mm per 1 m, but no more than 15 mm over the entire height of the room. Thus, the maximum wall deviation for ceilings of 2.5 m is 7.5 mm. Smooth unevenness is acceptable for every 4 square meters. m. - no more than 3 pieces. Their height or depth should not exceed 5 mm. Horizontally, the maximum deviation is 3 mm per 1 m.
2. SNIP for improved plaster requires stricter compliance with tolerances. Vertically - no more than 2 mm per 1 m, but no more than 10 mm over the entire height of the room. The presence of smooth irregularities is acceptable - no more than 2 pieces. for 4 sq. m., less than 3 mm deep. For each meter horizontally, a deviation of no more than 2 mm is permissible.
3. The most stringent requirements in SNIP are specified for high-quality plaster. Vertical deviations should be less than 1 mm per 1 m, but not more than 5 mm per room height. The maximum allowed presence of 2 irregularities per 4 square meters. m., less than 2 mm deep. At 1 m horizontally, a deviation of no more than 1 mm is permissible.

Aligning walls with beacons

It is in this way that significant unevenness in the wall can be removed. Beacon profiles will serve as a limiter so that the work is completed perfectly evenly with a tolerance of 1 mm/sq.m.

Cost of work

The price for plastering work starts from 600 rubles. per sq. m. Let's calculate how much you can save if you don't hire workers.

First of all, you need to buy a hammer drill and a 2 m long bubble level. All the rest consumables will be indicated below. 6,000 rubles will be enough for all these accessories, so you will save after leveling one wall of 15 square meters. m.

If you need to level walls with an area of ​​90 square meters. m., then the savings will be at least 30,000 rubles! You will have the entire tool forever, and if you already have it, then it would be a sin not to use it. If we plaster the walls ourselves, we will definitely be confident in their quality.

Choosing a mixture for plaster

To better understand the process of leveling walls, look at the following on plaster:

• The last stage is grouting the plaster. To make this easier, it is better to start grouting before the solution dries. To do this, you need to dilute the plaster in small portions to a thinner consistency. Before grouting, moisten a small area of ​​the wall about 1 square meter.
• Apply the solution to the malka and spread it in a thin layer. Then level this square with a hammer at a 45 degree angle, using strong pressure.
• Continue smoothing the square until the solution stops accumulating on the malt, while removing any excess. The surface should be flat and smooth.
• Repeat these steps, but smooth each new square overlapping the previous one. Try to work without breaks, being distracted only by mixing the solution.

Pay attention! If you are laying tiles, the minimum layer of plaster should be 10 mm. In addition, there is no need to grout, since for maximum adhesion of the tiles to the wall it will be necessary to create artificial unevenness.

The result of the work is shown in the photo:

Plastering facades

Plastering external walls (facades) using lighthouses uses almost the same technology as indoors. The main thing here is to observe the temperature regime. The temperature outside should be above zero.

For facades, a mixture based on cement and sand is usually used. For greater durability, you can attach a metal mesh to the facade and plaster over it. It is especially important to use a mesh if the walls of the house are made of sand-lime brick.

We have looked in detail at how to properly plaster walls using beacons. Now you can do this work yourself without any problems. Don't be discouraged if you don't succeed the first time, everything comes with experience, and you will definitely learn how to make the walls perfectly even. We also recommend that you read our article about.

Today, the situation when an apartment in a new building is greeted with bare walls without any finishing or plastering is the norm. Faced with this, the owners are launching a large-scale renovation of the entire apartment. And one of the top priorities is plastering the walls. To perform this type of work, you need to know how to plaster walls and be able to use the tool.

• We will need a steel brush to clean the surface. Brushes can vary in size and hardness.
• We will use bush hammers, trojans, and teeth to apply notches. Bush hammer - a heavy hammer with serrated ends.
• Scraper for applying plaster.
• The falcon is used for convenience; a single portion of plaster mortar is placed in it, which will then be applied to the walls.
• The solution is mixed with a plaster spatula, applied to the wall surface and rubbed.
• A trowel is convenient for leveling the solution over the surface.
• A grater is needed for grouting plaster.
• The rule is to control the evenness of the surface.
• A level or plumb line is required for control in the horizontal direction.
• Plaster mixture. We’ll talk about the best way to plaster walls later.

Rules for applying plaster

It is necessary to properly plaster the walls in three layers; remove excess mortar with a wide trapezoidal spatula

Preparation: ensure adhesion

1. Clean the surface from dust, dirt, and deposits.

2. Wet the surface with water. It is very convenient to do this from a garden sprayer, but if this is not possible, then you can use a broom.

3. If the wall is brick, deepen the seams between the bricks by about 1 cm. This is necessary for better adhesion of the mortar to the surface.

4. If the wall is concrete and is smooth surface, we make notches on it with a tooth and a hammer 15 mm long, 3 mm deep. For every m2 there should be approximately 250 notches. Then we clean the wall with a brush and moisten it with water.

5. If the wall is wooden, we split the boards and stuff shingles on top. You can use plywood scraps 15 mm wide and 4 mm thick and stuffed diagonally. The result should be a diagonal sheathing on the wall.

Important! Instead of shingles, you can use mesh - chain-link. It must be stuffed onto plywood strips, and not directly onto the wall; the gap between the wall and the stack should be about 3 mm.

Solution application technique

1. We collect a portion of the plaster mortar into the falcon.

2. Using a plaster spatula, remove the mortar from the falcon and throw it onto the wall. It is most convenient to pick up the solution with the angle of the spatula, moving away from you towards the middle of the falcon. The throwing motion is carried out only with the hand, and not with the whole arm. Do not wave too hard, otherwise the solution may splash.

Important! There is another method of application - spreading. We place the falcon against the wall, take a portion of the solution with a spatula and spread it on the wall. But keep in mind that throwing the solution provides better adhesion to the surface!

Splash- the first layer of plaster has the consistency of liquid sour cream. Required for wooden walls and is 10 mm. This layer is not needed for concrete and brick walls.

Priming- the second layer of dough-like consistency - evens out unevenness. The thickness is 20 mm and no more, even if the layer is applied in several stages, this limit is maximum.

Covering- the third layer is again from a solution of creamy consistency. Only this time it is necessary to approach its preparation more carefully. The thickness is 2-5 mm. The covering smoothes out all remaining imperfections in the soil.

Important! For concrete and brick walls, plaster 5 mm thick is sufficient; for wooden walls, the layer should be 25 mm or more in order to completely cover the shingles or mesh.

3. Level the plaster mortar with a trowel. We drive it both horizontally and vertically. This must be done with each layer separately. The better we level the soil, the easier and more correct we will apply the covering. We level the spray only if drops of solution hang from it.

Important! Do not forget to control the evenness of the surface as a rule. And after leveling the covering, wait until the solution dries.

4. Rub the surface with a grater.

First, we grout in a circular manner. Press the grater tightly against the wall and make circular movements counterclockwise. All irregularities will be cut off with the edges of the grater.

Then we perform the grouting at speed. It is necessary to remove circular marks left after circular grouting. We clean the grater from any remaining solution, press it to the surface and make sharp movements, erasing traces.

If the walls have significant unevenness, protrusions or other defects, then it is necessary to perform plaster along the beacons, if, of course, you want to get a perfectly flat horizontal and vertical surface.

If the walls are made of wood, brick or other material into which nails can easily be inserted, then wooden planks or metal beacons: aluminum or steel can be used as beacons.

If the walls are made of a more durable material, then plaster or plaster is used as beacons.

We install beacons strictly according to level

Stages of work:

1. At a distance of about 15-20 cm from the corner of the room or the beginning of the wall, make a plumb line. We drive a nail at the top of the wall and hang a plumb line on it with a rope.

2. Cooking cement mortar or alabaster and strictly along the plumb line we throw small piles of mortar onto the wall. It is on them that we will mount the beacons. In a vertical position, three such piles are enough.

3. Take a beacon, for example, an aluminum one. We apply it to the piles of mortar and gently press it in so that the outer edge of the lighthouse protrudes from the wall by 15-20 mm. Be sure to check the evenness of the beacon with a level.

4. We install the second beacon at the other edge of the wall. And one more in the middle between them. The technology is the same, only now it is necessary to check their level relative position so that it is the same. To do this, in addition to the vertical plumb line, you can stretch the string horizontally.

Important! If the wall is very long, there should be more beacons. Approximately 1 m apart. We check the location of the beacons with a level.

5. We finally fix the beacons on the wall, covering their edges concrete mixture. We are waiting for the solution to harden and the beacons will “sit” firmly in place.

6. Apply the plaster in the same way as already described above. We fill all the cracks and potholes.

Important! The layer of plaster should protrude 2-3 mm beyond the edges of the beacons.

7. Level the plaster using the rule. We apply it to the beacons, press down and, moving from bottom to top along the beacons, remove the excess layer of plaster.

8. If there is not enough mixture, add more to fill the voids. We continue leveling and adding until the wall is level. Then wait until the solution dries. It will take 10-12 days.

The video demonstrating how to properly plaster walls describes in detail the technology for installing beacons and plastering on beacons.

Afterwards, you can carry out a “finish” plastering of the walls or immediately putty them.

The most difficult stage in plastering work is slopes, window openings and corners.

Luzg — internal corner formed by the connection of two walls or a wall and a ceiling.

Usenok — external corner formed by two walls.

Plastering slopes is the most difficult stage

Beacons are a good help in plastering slopes. Where the walls meet the ceiling, we set a rule and fill the space under it with mortar.

Grind using a grater. We correct all defects and check the evenness of the layer using the rule.

To plaster the vertical husk to the lighthouse, we place the rule at the bottom near the floor and fill the empty space with mortar. After a while, we remove the rule, under it you should get a perfectly even strip of solution. We are waiting for it to dry. We make the same strip at the top of the wall. These stripes will serve as horizontal beacons for us. Then we apply the plaster to the empty space and level it relative to our mortar beacons. We erase all small defects and irregularities.

In the case of studs, it is convenient to nail a perfectly flat one onto the adjacent plastered wall. wooden plank and secure it near the edge so that it is convenient to level the solution along it. Apply the plaster mixture to the slope. We level the mortar using the rule if the wall is smooth. If we are plastering the slope of a window opening, then we use an angle tool to level it in order to maintain correct angle near the window frame.

After the solution dries, rub it with a grater. We check the evenness of the plaster with a level. Then remove the auxiliary strips.

How to plaster slopes: video

The best way to plaster walls

For plastering internal surfaces It is best to choose the following mixtures: mortar, lime-clay, lime-clay-gypsum mortar, lime-gypsum or cement-lime mortar. If the walls are wooden, you can use a solution with the addition of gypsum. The main thing to remember is that plaster dries quickly.

To plaster external walls, use lime mortar, cement-lime or cement-clay mortar.

Cement mortars are used to repair old plaster and finish bumps.

Different mixtures are used for internal and external surfaces

Mortar prepared from 1 part lime dough and 1-5 parts sand. Sand is added gradually until the solution becomes homogeneous. The solution should stick slightly to the trowel and resemble dough.

Lime-clay mortar is a mixture of 1 part liquid clay dough, 1/3 part lime dough and 3-6 parts sand. Mix the clay and lime dough, then gradually begin to add sand, continuing to stir.

Cement-lime mortar knead from 1 part cement, 1-3 parts lime paste and 6-8 parts sand. Add sand to dry cement and mix, add milk of lime and mix. If the dough is too thick, add a little water and mix.

Lime-gypsum mortar prepare from 1 part gypsum and 3-4 parts lime. Take a container, pour water, pour a thin layer of plaster and quickly knead. The result should be a not very thick homogeneous mass. Add lime mortar to it and mix.

Cement mortar used most often for thick layers of plaster or on external walls. Mix 1 part cement and 2-5 parts sand and, adding water, knead like dough.

If you choose the right solution for plastering walls and follow all the recommendations for application technology, this will greatly facilitate further work by finishing.

Video: plaster on polystyrene foam

A facade insulated with polystyrene foam does not need to be sheathed with clapboard or siding, but simply plastered. The video will tell you how to do this:

If there is a need to level the walls with plaster, the consumer is faced with huge selection various materials, which makes it difficult to figure out on your own how to plaster the walls in an apartment. Before deciding which plaster to choose for walls in any room, it is necessary to determine the future operating conditions of the surface, which will allow you to figure out which plaster for walls is better in each specific case.

Terms of Use. The material in question can be used for treating internal and external walls, in conditions of normal or high humidity. All types of finishing solutions are suitable for interior work in dry rooms.

To plaster external surfaces made of brick or concrete (facade elements, balconies), you will need a cement-sand mixture, and to work with surfaces exposed to high humidity, cement-lime mixtures are suitable.

Adding fiber to cement-sand mortars allows you to give higher strength characteristics when working with external walls.

Temperature regime. In areas not intended for year-round residence, for example, in country houses, do not use gypsum-based plaster solutions. When temperature changes, plaster made of this material will collapse. In this case, only cement mixtures can be used.

Characteristics of sand. To prepare surfaces for various types of subsequent finishing, sand of various fractions is used. So, to prepare the wall for painting you should use medium size fractions, for final plastering - small, for leveling walls for pasting or installing tiles - large.

Finisher skills. Not every craftsman can correctly apply the solution to the surface and smooth it out efficiently, so before starting work you should make sure that the invited finishers know how to work with a specific type plaster solutions. It is difficult to do this work on your own, without training and practice.

Method of applying the solution. Besides manual application mixture onto the surface, it is possible to mechanically treat the walls using special devices.

Price. The use of expensive and cheap materials, subject to the work technology, gives almost the same result, but there is a difference in the speed of surface treatment and the time it takes for the solution to fully gain strength. So, polymer compositions, although they are much more expensive than conventional cement or lime mixtures, they gain strength faster, which allows you to start the next work earlier.

Types of plaster by composition

To prepare various surfaces Three main types of plaster are used for interior decoration and external works:

Cement mortars. Universal material, suitable for almost any surface. The positive qualities of solutions with a predominance of cement include:

• the ability to withstand sudden changes in temperature without changing strength characteristics;
• the ability to process the applied material within several hours;
• plastered cement mixtures surfaces are frost-resistant and do not allow moisture and steam to pass through;
• affordable price;
• plastered surfaces can retain their properties and strength for at least 30 years.

The disadvantages of cement-based plaster mortars include the long (28 days) period of strength gain and the need for highly qualified performers. Before wallpapering, the plastered surface will have to be puttied and a primer applied.

Gypsum solutions. This material allows you to prepare the surface for gluing with roll materials.

Advantages:

• drying time of the mixture is 2-3 hours;
• the solution is plastic and convenient for quickly completing work;
• the final strength gain occurs within 10 days;
• the plastered surface is ready for finishing work.

Flaws:

• gypsum is afraid of moisture, so this material is destroyed in humid environments.

Polymer solutions. This material is intended for eliminating minor imperfections on concrete and brick surfaces; it is also suitable for working with drywall.

Advantages:

• mixtures have antiseptic properties;
• are not afraid of humidity;
• can be used for processing external and internal surfaces;
• are a waterproofing material;
• can serve as finishing material.

Flaws:

• to receive high-quality coating, this material is applied to an already prepared and leveled surface.

Choosing plaster based on wall material

When the customer decides to level the walls using plaster, it is necessary to decide what is better to plaster the walls inside the house, what type of plaster mixture to use in the bathroom and toilet, in the kitchen or in living rooms. The type of mixture depends on the material of the surface that is decided to be plastered.

How can you plaster the walls in the bathroom and toilet? It should be remembered that for rooms with high humidity solutions based on cement and lime are used, and there should be twice as much lime in this mixture as cement.

Before plastering wooden walls inside the house, for example, made of timber, it is necessary to strengthen a metal mesh on the surface, which will serve as a frame for plastering and will allow adhesion, since in its normal state the solution does not adhere to wood.

If the surface has significant vertical differences, it is recommended to eliminate uneven areas using shingles or installing special removable beacons. At the dachas and country houses, which are not intended for permanent residence, the best option for preparing walls is plaster, since drywall is destroyed under conditions of temperature and humidity changes.

To level wooden bases, mixtures with a predominance of cement and gypsum are used; it is possible to use clay solutions with high content plasticizers and addition of fiber.

How to plaster the walls inside the house if the masonry is made of aerated blocks or gas silicate blocks, which are fixed with special glue? In this case, you will have to fix the plaster mesh to the surface, and plaster the aerated concrete with cement and gypsum mortars.

To figure out how to plaster walls from foam blocks inside the house, you need to remember that the usual rough finish cement mortars will not be suitable in this case due to the complete lack of adhesion. Good option for leveling foam concrete and foam block walls, mixtures with a predominance of gypsum. For working with foam concrete surfaces, lightweight mixtures of Pobedit or Glims Velur gypsum are recommended.

For alignment brick or concrete walls, cement-based mixtures are best suited, which will ensure reliable adhesion of the mortar to obtain ideal surface for painting, wallpapering or tiling.

Popular manufacturers and prices

When choosing suitable materials for leveling walls, you should pay attention to already proven manufacturers. The most popular brands are:

• "Ceresit ST 29" for concrete and brick surfaces. Base: cement-sand mixture with mineral additives. Cost per package of 25 kg from 450 rubles;
• "Volma Canvas" for concrete, foam concrete and brick surfaces, their aerated concrete walls. Base: gypsum. Cost per package of 30 kg from 350 rubles;
• “Prospectors” for rooms with high humidity and concrete or brick surfaces. Base: cement-sand mixture with mineral additives. The cost of a 50 kg package starts from 400 rubles;
• "Knauf Rotband" for concrete and brick surfaces. Base: gypsum. Cost per package of 30 kg from 390 rubles;
• "Caparol Capatect" for brick surfaces, walls made of porous concrete and expanded clay. Warp: mineral materials. The cost for a package of 25 kg is from 700 rubles.

Popular brands of plaster mortars also include the following brands: “Osnovit”, “Unis”, “Betonit”, “Glims”, “Mapei”.

What to choose for a novice repairman

An inexperienced plasterer, when choosing a suitable mixture, should first of all pay attention to the material of the surface to be treated:

• For brick and concrete exterior and interior walls, cement mortar is best. It is optimal as a basis for further tiling and wallpapering, but in this case you will have to apply a layer of putty;
• If walls made of foam concrete are to be treated, gypsum solutions are used;
• For wooden surfaces preparation is required in the form of shingles or metal mesh, and for plastering they use cement or gypsum compositions.

For interior work in a city apartment optimal solution for concrete walls there will be gypsum-based materials that provide high-quality preparation of the surface for pasting.