Methods of laying parquet on the floor. Laying parquet with your own hands: step-by-step instructions for laying parquet yourself. Features of multilayer lamellas

An elegant and beautiful floor is the dream of any owner. To create it, you can use various floor coverings, but among all their variety, parquet stands out. This type of flooring has been known for many centuries and is still very popular, despite the labor-intensive installation process. All work on laying parquet should be entrusted to a master of his craft, but for those who are ready to work hard and know how to use tools, laying parquet with their own hands is quite a feasible task.

Laying parquet video - lesson

Parquet laying technology

Having decided to do all the work on laying parquet with your own hands, first of all you need to familiarize yourself with the laying technology. If during work a number of serious mistakes, then even mastery of the tool will not save you from the need for subsequent repairs or remodeling of the entire parquet floor covering. Therefore, to avoid additional financial and labor costs, you need to know the following.

To create a reliable and durable parquet, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory work. First of all, this concerns the base on which the parquet will be laid. It can be wooden or concrete, but it must be strong, smooth, without depressions and various types of damage. The permissible difference in surface heights should be no more than 2 mm per linear meter.

If you have to lay parquet on wooden base, it is necessary to inspect the floor for failed or poorly secured floorboards and differences between them. If no gaps are found, but there are poorly secured and creaking boards, then we fix them with self-tapping screws. We eliminate differences and unevenness between the floorboards by scraping the surface. If it is not possible to cycle the boards and thereby remove differences, then you can putty them using a mixture based on PVA and wood sawdust. The most labor-intensive work will be in the presence of floorboard failures. To eliminate this drawback, you will have to disassemble the floor down to the joists. If the joists are in good condition, then you can make underlays under the floorboards and secure them to the joists using self-tapping screws. If rotten or damaged joists are found, they will have to be replaced and then the entire wooden floor structure will have to be reassembled. Having completed all the work to eliminate the shortcomings and create a solid wooden base, we lay a plywood backing on it.

Before laying parquet, the floor can be leveled using a self-leveling mixture

Today, parquet flooring is more popular concrete base. It's a little less hassle-free to prepare and is more durable and strong than wood. But before laying parquet on it, it is necessary to inspect the concrete floor. If cracks, depressions or differences are found, they should be eliminated. To do this, you can make the surface screed with a self-leveling mixture and, after it has completely dried, begin laying the parquet. The work will be more labor-intensive in the case of crumbled concrete. Then you will have to completely remove the old concrete screed, refill it and let it dry completely. As soon as all the preparation work concrete base completed, we lay a plywood backing on it.

The next requirement is a certain level of humidity during installation and subsequent operation. The tree is very sensitive to high humidity, therefore, using parquet in the kitchen, bathroom or toilet is extremely undesirable. During installation, it is necessary to observe the temperature regime - not lower than +18°C, humidity level in the range of 35 - 65%.

Now it’s time to start choosing parquet, which today is quite large, so you can choose whatever your heart desires. In addition, to create a unique floor covering, you can contact a designer who will create a unique project with or without a pattern. You can opt for classic versions styling Or you can combine it yourself various breeds wood and methods of laying parquet, get your own pattern. After purchasing and delivering the parquet home, it must sit indoors for 48 hours to “get used” to the microclimate. This is necessary so that after laying the parquet surface does not swell, the lamellas retain their shape, and there are no squeaks in the future.

Laying strip parquet step by step

Laying piece parquet- painstaking work that requires increased attention and patience

Laying parquet should begin with a plywood base. First, leveled wooden or concrete surface We carefully clean it of construction debris. We use an industrial vacuum cleaner to remove all the dust. If you leave everything as is, dust and debris will prevent good adhesion of the plywood to the base surface, reducing the adhesive properties of the glue.

Now you need to cut a large sheet of moisture-resistant plywood 1525 * 1525 mm with a thickness of 12 mm into 4 pieces. This can be done using manual circular saw. Such small sheets will ensure its better adherence to the base. We lay the resulting sheets away from the wall, starting from the corner opposite to the doors. We leave a gap of 10 - 15 mm between the wall and the plywood sheets, and in order not to disturb it during work, we drive special pegs between the wall and the plywood sheet. It should be noted that this gap must be maintained for parquet, so we select pegs of a sufficiently high height so that they are 5 - 10 mm higher from the edge of the parquet. This is done so that the wood has the opportunity to expand slightly during seasonal changes in the humidity level in the room, thereby maintaining the integrity of the floor covering.

It is more convenient and reliable to lay block parquet on plywood sheets

We also leave expansion joints 2 - 5 mm and between sheets of plywood, but without pegs. Before laying the sheets of plywood, apply special glue to the place where they are laid with a notched trowel, after which we lay the plywood. We lay the second row of sheets with a slight offset relative to the joining seams of the first row, in other words, “staggered”.

To additionally secure the plywood to the base, we use self-tapping dowels. One sheet of plywood will require 8 pieces. To do this we drill impact drill deep holes and screw the screws in there. It is better to do this work with a screwdriver, it is faster and easier. It is recommended to use galvanized self-tapping screws No. 8; when screwing them in, the head must be recessed 1 - 2 mm into the sheet so that during subsequent sanding of the plywood surface the drum of the sander will not be damaged.

Regardless of how even the base is created, when laying sheets of plywood, small differences are formed that need to be removed. To do this, you can sand the entire surface of the plywood backing, but to save time and money, you can sand only the joints of the sheets. In the grinder we use abrasive with grain P36 - P40. Then we vacuum the resulting surface and prime it. We apply the primer with a roller and make sure that it thoroughly saturates all the sheets of plywood.

Important! In the process of laying parquet you will need various construction tool(parquet sander, industrial vacuum cleaner, surface sander, etc.). Some tools are quite expensive and are required only by people who professionally lay parquet. Therefore, it is easier to rent all the expensive equipment, and small tools such as a screwdriver, hand grinders, an air gun and a drill can be purchased for personal use.

Having completed all the preparatory work and created reliable substrate made of plywood, you can start laying block parquet according to an individual project, or using one of classical methods styling The most popular methods of laying parquet are as follows:

“Deck” is one of the simplest ways of laying block parquet, reminiscent of the pattern of the floor on the deck of a ship

Deck laying;
Herringbone;
Squares;

“Waitwork” is one of the most common methods of laying block parquet

Wicker with inserts from other types of wood;
Sheremetyevskaya star;
Diamonds.

As well as combinations of the above styling methods in combination with various patterns and shapes.

In order to do everything correctly, you will have to mark the future parquet on the plywood. And if with such installation options as deck, herringbone or squares, everything is quite simple, then in the case of artistic inserts everything will be much more complicated. To make marking easier, you need to make an exact scaled copy of the room and draw on it what the parquet will look like, and then transfer everything to the floor.

Important! You can mark out simple installation methods yourself, but in the case of artistic inserts, it is better to turn to a professional.

To fix the parquet planks to the floor surface, apply glue

Now that there are markings, you can lay the parquet strips. We start from the opposite corner from the door. On small area Apply glue to the surface of the plywood with a notched trowel and lay the first die with the “groove” to the wall. Then we fix it with pneumatic nails. To do this, we drive pneumatic nails into the “spike” of the die at an angle of 45 degrees. Next, we lay the second die of the first row, using a hammer and a block, we finish it off with the first die and fix it with pneumatic nails. Depending on the installation method, we form the first row of parquet. We repeat the entire algorithm of actions (apply glue, place the die, finish it through the block with a hammer, fix it with pneumatic nails) throughout the entire installation.

Important! We remember about the compensation temperature gap between the wall and the parquet. Upon completion of installation, it will be necessary to remove the spacer pegs from there. When performing work, for convenience, you should purchase special knee pads, since you will have to stand on your knees a lot, which is very uncomfortable for a long time.

When the installation of the room is completed, it is necessary to allow the adhesive to dry before continuing further work. Drying time is indicated on the packaging. Then we begin sanding the parquet. For this we use a special grinder drum type. Sand until the surface is smooth and uniform. Usually 2 - 3 passes are enough to achieve this. IN hard to reach places such as corners or near walls, we use an angle grinder. Then we bring it to perfection with another machine - a surface grinder.

We perform final sanding of the parquet surface using a machine.

Now all that remains is to fill the cracks in the parquet and begin final sanding of the surface. The final stage will apply varnish protective coating. All work on puttying and applying varnish should be carried out in personal protective equipment and take a break from time to time.

Application of protective varnish coating on the parquet - this will protect it from mechanical damage

Despite the complexity and labor-intensive installation of block parquet, this type of flooring is the most beautiful and prestigious. Its creation will require from the master not only good ability to handle the tool, but also patience while performing all the work.

A wooden floor is always beautiful, original and warm. The unique atmosphere of comfort created is incomparable with other types of flooring. Parquet is used to create an individual, refined and noble floor covering. Block parquet can be used to form a fashionable, unique pattern, which is why it is still popular today, despite the fact that laying block parquet is complex and time-consuming. However, it is not necessary to call a specialist; after studying the technology and following all the rules and recommendations, you can do all the installation work yourself. The task is also simplified by the fact that all modern parquet planks are made with a tongue-and-groove system, which helps to securely fasten the parquet elements together without gaps.

Block parquet flooring - choosing wood

Not only the color scheme of the parquet depends on the type of wood, but also its durability, since different types of wood have different hardness and resistance to moisture. For example, pine and others conifers are not used for parquet production due to their exceptional softness. On pine parquet, even if it is covered with several layers of varnish, marks from heels and other sharp objects will remain.

The most common species used for parquet are oak, walnut, maple, cherry, ash, beech and others.

Classic of the genre. It is hard, resistant to moisture, has a beautiful pattern, the color range of which can be various shades brown. The only drawback of oak is that it darkens over time. The rest of it performance characteristics on top. When purchasing oak parquet, pay attention to the duration of its drying; the accelerated drying option is not suitable.

It has the same hardness as oak, but at the same time has an even warm and soft yellowish or reddish tint, for which it is valued. Beech is a capricious breed. Under the influence of changes in temperature and humidity, it bends and deforms, so it requires careful care and compliance optimal conditions operation.

Maple parquet At first it appears white, but over time it turns a little yellow. In terms of hardness, it is practically not inferior to oak, and in some species this indicator is even higher. You should pay attention to the drying time; quickly dried maple wood becomes deformed over time.

Cherry parquet - brown with a distant shade of pink, but darkens slightly over time. It has less hardness than oak, however, it is quite popular because it can be easily processed and trimmed.

Exotic option. It is valued for its beautiful patterns in the section of the trunk and for its extensive color scheme- all shades of brown. Merbau is not afraid of moisture, but is so saturated with resins that it is difficult to process.

Choose wood for parquet based on the operating conditions in a particular room. For example, cherry can be used in a child's room, maple in a den, and oak can be used everywhere. It is not at all necessary to make the entire parquet floor from one type of wood; you can combine it from different species different shades unique drawing.

We buy piece parquet - pay attention to quality

Parquet planks are available in various sizes. The length of the plank can be 15 - 40 cm, width 3 - 9 cm, and thickness 1.5 - 2.2 cm.

It is necessary to select planks according to size, taking into account the area of the room: small planks will visually enlarge the room, and large ones will reduce it. From an installation point of view, the size of the planks is also important. If the parquet strips are large, then the number of joints will be smaller, but then the requirements for the quality of drying of the material will be much greater. The larger the bar, the less elasticity it has.

The optimal width of parquet planks is 5 cm. If it is necessary to use planks larger size, buy those that have cuts on inside, they are more resistant to deformation.

What should you pay attention to when purchasing block parquet?:

There should be no knots, chips or cracks on the front surface.
The top layer (from the top to the beginning of the interlocking joint) should be large enough. The thicker the wear layer, the more times the parquet can be sanded and refinished.
Products must be dried to 8%. Drying time is at least a month.
It is necessary to check the quality of the tenon and groove cut. To do this, just fold 4 planks into a square. If the planks fit together easily and 90° angles are formed between them without cracks or gaps, then the tongue-and-groove system is made with high quality.
Sort the planks according to the cutting direction, the presence of sapwood residues and knots.

The most durable and valuable are the planks of the so-called radial cut, i.e. loose along. A characteristic feature is straight lines on the surface and a single color. Radial parquet is more expensive than other types.

All work on laying parquet begins only after finishing the ceiling and walls, laying communications and checking them for leaks. When laying parquet, certain humidity and temperature indicators must be observed. So the residual humidity of the walls should not be higher than 6%, the humidity of the floor should not be higher than 5%, and the relative humidity of the air should be 35 - 60%. Optimal temperature- 18 - 23 °C.

Failure to comply with these conditions will result in deformation of the coating. If you lay parquet at high humidity levels, it will swell and take on moisture. And when all the work is finished, over time it will dry out, begin to “shrink” and gaps will appear between the dies. Fixing this is much more difficult and expensive than doing everything right from the beginning.

The surface on which piece parquet will be laid must be perfectly flat, maximum error 1 mm per 1 m2.

includes the following stages of work:

Repair of old concrete floors, if required.
Waterproofing concrete base.
Fill the leveling screed 4 - 5 cm thick. Or laying joists for a wooden floor.
Priming the screed for glue.
Gluing moisture resistant plywood to a screed or fastening plywood to joists.
Gluing and nailing parquet to plywood.
Sanding the parquet surface.
Puttying parquet.
Priming parquet for varnish.
Opening the parquet with varnish from 3 to 9 layers.

All of the above measures must be completed, otherwise over time the parquet will dry out, begin to creak, or fall off altogether.

Preparatory work before laying parquet

Preparing a strong and level base is perhaps one of the most important tasks in laying parquet. The durability of the coating as a whole will depend on the quality of the fastening surface. The cost of laying block parquet, if ordered from specialized construction organizations, usually does not include preparation of the base.

Preparing the concrete base

If parquet is to be laid on concrete floor, then the first thing you need to do is waterproof it. To do this, the surface of the floor slab must be covered with a superdiffusion membrane or 200 micron polyethylene film. The joints of the film sheet are made with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm and are taped with construction tape. On the walls waterproofing film starts at 10 - 15 cm and is temporarily secured to it with tape.

Then you need to fill in the leveling screed, which will also serve as a mounting base for the plywood. The thickness of the screed should be 4 - 5 cm. It is imperative to check the horizontality of the coating and the absence of defects - holes, potholes, height differences and others.

Important! Before starting subsequent work, the screed must be completely dry. This will take about a month or two. You should not rush and continue laying parquet flooring, as the wood will draw moisture from the screed, and this will lead to inevitable deformations.

When the screed dries, its surface is covered with special primers, which increase the adhesion of the base to the glue and at the same time act as waterproofing.

Then moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of 12 mm is taken and cut into squares of 50x50 cm or 75x75 cm.

Functions of moisture-resistant plywood under a piece package:

Protects parquet from shrinkage deformations.
Ideally levels the surface.
Serves as thermal insulation and partial sound insulation.
Provides durability.
Serves as a basis for fastening parquet strips. If you lay parquet directly on a screed, the planks may fall off due to the destruction of the top layer of the screed. Plywood holds them firmly.

Important! The thickness of the plywood should be 5 mm less than the thickness of the parquet strip. But using sheets smaller than 12 mm is impractical; they do not perform their functions. In this case, you can lay the plywood in two layers, staggered.

Next, the surface of the screed is lubricated with glue and squares of plywood are laid on it, pressed tightly and fixed with dowel nails or self-tapping screws. It is necessary to leave at least 1 - 1.5 mm gap between the squares of plywood to prevent deformation of the parquet if the plywood begins to expand.

It is also important to leave a gap of 2 - 3 mm between the wall and the plywood; this will be an expansion joint. You can insert special wedges into the gap to prevent the gap from moving.

It is not necessary to attach the plywood to the concrete base; you can do it the old fashioned way - the floor is on joists. To do this, you don’t even have to level the concrete base. It is enough to waterproof it by spreading a waterproofing film.

Then the logs are laid in increments of 35 - 40 cm. You can use 50x50 or 50x80 mm timber as logs. The logs are secured to the floor using corners and dowels. In the process of laying the logs, it is necessary to ensure that their surface forms an even plane. To do this, in places where there are differences in heights of the concrete base, you can place wooden stands or trim off the excess.

When the logs are installed, plywood is nailed. Glue is no longer used here, only self-tapping screws. The step for attaching the plywood squares to the joists is 10 - 15 cm. It is necessary to nail the plywood not only at the edges, but also in the middle to all the joists. The gap between the squares is also required.

Preparing an old wooden floor

Before laying parquet on old wooden floor it must be checked for serviceability. There should be no creaks, dips or other defects anywhere. If something similar is observed, it is necessary to partially dismantle the flooring and repair the joists. After the renovation is completed, the surface of the old wooden floor is sanded. Parquet can be laid directly on a wooden subfloor, without plywood.

Laying block parquet with your own hands

The work of laying block parquet is very important; you cannot rush here, reducing the repair time. It’s better to take a break for a day or two or a week than to have to redo all the work. After all, one mistake and all the coverage is down the drain.

Methods for laying block parquet

The technology of laying parquet involves several ways of laying it:

Floating installation method.
Installation with parquet glue.
Laying with fastening with nails or self-tapping screws.
Laying on parquet glue and securing with nails or self-tapping screws.

Floating method installation involves fastening parquet planks only to each other using a tongue-and-groove system. They are not attached to the base in any other way. To prevent such a floor from creaking, soundproofing material, such as cork, is laid underneath it. Parquet planks secured in this way will expand and contract freely depending on temperature and humidity conditions. The floating floor is repairable - just disassemble it and put it back together. But the strength of such a coating is very doubtful; it is enough for one locking connection to become loose for the entire floor to begin to warp and deform.

Laying parquet with glue It is considered more durable, but also less repairable. The base is generously lubricated with glue, then parquet flooring is laid, connecting with a tongue-and-groove system. This method is considered more labor-intensive and expensive due to the consumption of glue.

Installation with parquet adhesive and fastening with nails or self-tapping screws- the most durable and popular method. Such a floor is practically not subject to deformations, since they are restrained from all sides. But at the same time, it will no longer be possible to repair such parquet. All hope for a long service life.

How to lay piece parquet - stages of work

To make the pattern on the parquet smooth and beautiful, it is advisable to draw it on paper. It is important to take into account the exact dimensions of the room and the parquet planks. If suddenly the drawing turns out that some row is not whole, then the drawing must be redone so that there are trimmed rows along the edges of the room, and only straight rows in the center.

The beginning of laying parquet also depends on the pattern. Let’s look at the example of a “Christmas tree”.

First, we mark out the room and find its middle. In the middle of the room, from wall to wall, we stretch a cord along which we will navigate.
We take two parquet planks and connect them in a herringbone pattern, inserting a tenon into the groove. Apply glue to the tenon, groove and ends of the planks.
Then we coat the plywood base with glue, starting from the far wall. We use a notched spatula for this.

We apply the “beacon herringbone” to the plywood so that the left edge of the planks presses the cord to the base, and the right edge of the planks rests against the cord.
Press the planks against the plywood so as to squeeze out excess glue.
Then we secure the planks with nails or self-tapping screws, screwing them into the groove of the plank at an angle of 45 ° and recessing the head. There must be at least 2 nail fastenings per 40 cm long plank.

Important! During the installation process, the master must sit so that the tongue of the planks is located towards him.

Next, we lay the planks according to the pattern. We coat the plywood base with glue to the width of the plank, 1 - 1.5 mm thick.
We apply the bar, inserting it into the end and longitudinal groove of the previous one, and finish it off with a rubber hammer. We fix it with self-tapping screws into the groove.

First, we lay rows of planks in the “lighthouse herringbone” pattern, on the left and right.

Then we lay a row of planks to the left of the “beacon herringbone”, then to the right. And so on we proceed, expanding the laying area until we reach the walls.
We fill narrow spaces near the walls with planks cut to size.
We insert wedges between the wall and the last row of parquet planks, leaving a gap of 2 - 3 mm.

All further work can be done after at least a week so that the glue has time to dry well. Although some experts recommend waiting six months, then the parquet planks themselves will take their final position.

Piece parquet is good because it can be laid in various patterns, placing the strips under different angles and in different sequences.

"Deck"- the easiest way to install. The planks are placed exactly, parallel to each other, offset by 1/3 or ½ of the length of the plank. The first plank is located near the wall; for a tighter fit, a tenon is sawed off from it.

"Herringbone"- the planks are connected to each other at an angle of 90 °. The planks should have two tenons - one on the longitudinal side, the second on the narrow end. There should also be two grooves on opposite sides. This method laying is quite complicated, since the rows must be perfectly aligned.

"Squares" and “braid” are formed quite easily. First, 2/3/4 planks of parquet are joined together and laid, then the other 2/3/4 planks are connected, but laid perpendicular to the first. This way the rows alternate, creating an organic geometric pattern.

"Braided" with inserts from different types of wood.

"Rhombuses" are laid from peculiar diamond-shaped parquet strips.

"Sheremetyevskaya Star" It is laid out from two types: rectangular planks and inclined diamond-shaped ones.

In addition to the above options, there are combinations of them with various shapes and patterns.

The price for laying block parquet depends on the layout of the planks. The simplest “deck” layout costs 7.5 - 8 USD. for 1 m2, “herringbone” will cost 9 USD. per meter, and artistic parquet can cost from 17 USD. up to 35 USD and even more. All these prices are indicated without preparatory work and further finishing work - sanding and varnishing. The average cost of laying parquet with sanding and varnishing is 17 USD. for 1 m2.

Grinding is necessary in order to make the surface as smooth as possible and remove defects that arise during the work. Grinding can be done with special grinding machines or an ordinary grinder with a circle of sandpaper. Of course, the option with a grinder is more preferable, and there will be less dust.

The first and second time grinding is carried out large grain to cut off large uneven areas. Third time - fine grain to achieve smoothness of the coating and remove roughness that appeared after the first sanding. Then the floor must be thoroughly vacuumed, removing all fine dust.

Puttying and priming of block parquet

It doesn’t hurt to fill all the cracks in the parquet, even if there are no visible large defects. The entire floor is rubbed with a special wood putty, all cracks and irregularities are filled. After drying, the floor must be sanded again with fine grain and excess putty must be removed. Then the floor is vacuumed again. To improve the adhesion of the varnish to the parquet and at the same time ensure that the varnish does not penetrate deep into the wood structure, the surface of the putty parquet floor is coated with a primer.

Opening a parquet floor with varnish or oil

The varnish protects the wood from moisture and mechanical stress. The total number of layers of varnish on parquet can be from 3 to 9. The more layers, the deeper the image. The varnish is applied with a roller to the entire surface at once, after which the floor is left to dry thoroughly for 24 - 36 hours. It is necessary to carry out varnishing work in clean soft shoes.

Important! While the varnish is drying, do not open the windows or leave them open. entrance doors, turn on air conditioning, ventilation, or otherwise provide a draft. The varnish should dry in as windless conditions as possible.

All subsequent layers of varnish are also applied with a roller with a drying interval of 24 - 36 hours for each layer. The last layer must dry for at least a week so that you can walk on it carefully, and you can bring furniture into the room only after at least a month, or even two.

Parquet varnish can be glossy or matte. Glossy makes the floor shine, brightens the room and highlights the pattern. Matt varnish used to reduce the brightness of the pattern on wood and to create an atmosphere of warm comfort.

Laying block parquet can be more expensive than installing solid board approximately 2 - 4 times. But at the same time, the coating will be more refined and durable, and there is also less risk of squeaking. The key to success in creating beautiful, prestigious parquet is the patience of the craftsman.

The range of floor coverings is regularly updated with new products. Often this modern materials, created using the achievements of the chemical industry, but there are also solutions that can be described as “well forgotten old”. A striking example- parquet board. In terms of its aesthetic appeal, durability and reliability, it is comparable to parquet, but laying parquet boards is simple and does not require highly qualified workers.

Parquet board, what is it

Parquet boards as a type of flooring appeared in the early 40s of the last century. It was created as a cheap and practical replacement for expensive parquet that requires skilled craftsmen. These days it is experiencing a rebirth. The main reason for this is absolute environmental safety, because the coating is made exclusively from natural wood.

Externally, the parquet board is similar to the usual laminate, but differs from it internal device. If you look at it in section, you can see three layers of planks of different thicknesses, the direction of the fibers of each of which is perpendicular to the previous one. This design ensures the strength and reliability of the material.

Top layer

The top (front) layer primarily creates the floor pattern. The lamellas from which it is assembled are selected according to pattern, shade and texture, and boards are selected without defects or damage. Some types of boards are covered with valuable wood veneer. In a sense, this is a piece product that allows you to create a luxurious and unique floor without any special investment.

In addition to its purely decorative function, the surface is resistant to abrasion and insensitive to constant pressure. That is why the top ball is made of hardwood, the layer thickness reaches 4 mm or more.

An additional advantage material is that it is completely ready for installation and operation. The front side is sanded from the factory, impregnated with protective compounds and varnished. All that is required from the consumer is to prepare the subfloor and lay the covering correctly.

Middle layer

The job of the middle layer is to distribute the load evenly. The best material for this is wood. coniferous trees. Longitudinal fibers give the material bending resistance, which ensures the durability and reliability of the coating as a whole.

The middle layer is assembled from planks about 7 mm thick. The width of each of them is up to 30 mm, the package is assembled with glue. Among other things, connection elements are formed in the middle layer, thanks to which the parquet board will be installed.

Bottom layer

All layer cake rests on the substrate. These are one or two solid boards up to 4 mm thick, laid along the long side, which provide stability and prevent the floor from sagging under pressure.

Advantages and Disadvantages

There is no ideal material, parquet boards are no exception. When planning to lay this covering, it is worth familiarizing yourself with its main advantages and disadvantages.

You need to start with the obvious advantages:

absolute environmental cleanliness;
a skillfully laid board is comparable to parquet in appearance and characteristics;
the board is much cheaper than parquet;
easy to install, no experience or knowledge required;
allows for the possibility of replacing a section of the floor without completely dismantling it;
does not require subsequent surface treatment, scraping, or varnishing;
A wide range of textures and colors are on sale.

At good care The service life of the coating is 20–30 years. This can be considered a disadvantage, because the same parquet will last much longer. True, the obvious advantages outweigh this conditional disadvantage. And besides everything, you can lay a parquet board with your own hands, but for parquet you will definitely have to invite specialists.

Preparing the subfloor

Parquet boards are not too picky about the base material. It can be laid with equal success on a leveled screed, on a base made of wood or plywood, moreover, it can be used to renew an old floor made of ceramic tiles. The only condition– the base must be reliable and necessarily level.

In any case, before laying the tiles, you need to do a number of preparatory work. First, you should visually assess the quality of the floor using a simple building level. Identify problem areas and take measures to level the surface. High spots are smoothed out, cracks are widened and sealed concrete mortar, they also fill the recesses.

Pay attention! Such “pothole” repairs are only possible if the surface is close to ideal and the height difference does not exceed 2–2.5 mm per square meter. Otherwise, you will have to think about creating a new subfloor.

The easiest way is to prepare the base for parquet boards using self-leveling compounds. They are easy to work with; just dissolve the mixture in water, following the instructions, and pour the solution in an even layer, of course, not forgetting about waterproofing.

You may also consider using sheet material wood based. Multilayer plywood is perfect for this, chipboard sheets or OSB. Using this material, you can create a new floor on joists or patch up an old one that is quite durable, but with a large difference in height.

The concrete floor must be primed and allowed to dry. It is necessary to lay a backing between the base and the board. The best material For these purposes, a traffic jam appears. It will smooth out possible unevenness in the foundation, help conserve heat in the house and protect from noisy neighbors.

Preparing to lay the coating

The technology for laying parquet boards is not particularly complicated; even a novice master can handle this task, but in any case it is easier to work with an assistant. And yet, before getting down to business, it’s worth preparing the tool. You will need:

hand or electric saw;
hammer with rubber striker;
level and plastic rule;
spatulas (smooth and serrated);
tape measure, square, pencil;
screwdriver;
bracket for tightening rows.

In addition to the tools, you need to prepare the room itself. It would be a good idea to go over the floor with a vacuum cleaner again. special attention pay attention to the corners; a stray pebble can ruin the whole job.

Methods for installing parquet boards

Once the tool is assembled and the work front is prepared, you can proceed directly to installation. It’s worth mentioning here that there are three main installation methods:

floating;
glue fastening;
using additional fasteners.

According to the installation method, a distinction is made between the longitudinal and diagonal method. When laying longitudinally, the boards are placed parallel to the wall, moving in the direction of the door, in the second case, diagonally from one of the corners. The longitudinal method is simpler; there is not much waste left during the work, but the diagonal method looks more impressive.

Floating installation

The peculiarity of floating installation is that the boards are not attached to the floor. The rigidity and immobility of the coating is achieved only through reliable locking connections. It is from this that all the pros and cons of such a configuration emerge:

easy to install;
it is easy to correct mistakes made during work;
it’s easy to replace several damaged boards;
it is possible to dismantle the floor and literally move it to another room;
the coating is immune to changes in humidity and temperature;
savings on adhesive composition.

As disadvantages, it is worth noting the need to carefully level the subfloor, the limitation on surface area, you should not use this method if the room is more than 50 square meters. Also, you cannot lay the board in this way in a room where a high load on the floor is expected.

Step-by-step instructions for carrying out the work are as follows.

First, lay the board along the longest wall of the room, from left to right. The part of the castle that will face the wall is cut off from the board. A complete row is assembled, the end board is cut to fit.
The coating should retreat from the walls by 10–15 mm; to achieve this, spacer wedges are used. Many people recommend completely assembling three rows before installing them, then placing wedges and using a bracket to pull the finished canvas, setting it in the desired position. The boards of each subsequent row are laid with a shift, selecting a pattern if necessary.
The following rows are assembled sequentially; if necessary, the canvas is tapped with light blows of a rubber hammer. The hardest part to lay is the outermost row. Each board must be precisely adjusted in width, and it is important not to forget to leave a gap along the edge to compensate for thermal expansion.

Once the covering is completely laid, the wedges are removed, baseboards and door thresholds are installed. It is advisable to turn on the floor heating or any heating device to raise the temperature in the room and the board sat in place.

Glue mounting

The essence this method reflected in its name - the parquet board is glued to the base using special adhesives. This method is more labor-intensive, but it also has a number of significant advantages:

there are no restrictions on the area and purpose of the room;
Can be used in conjunction with water heated floors.

But this is a labor-intensive installation, and in the future it will be problematic to correct the mistakes made and replace the damaged area. The floor will cost more due to the need to purchase glue. You will have to wait until the glue hardens before you start using it.

It is worth noting that you need to buy the right glue, the composition of which is suitable for the specific selected board. In addition, you need to work extremely carefully to prevent glue from getting on the front side of the coating.

As in the first case, installation is carried out according to the most long wall. Before applying glue, the board is laid out and the outermost one is cut off to create a full row.

A layer of glue 80–100 mm wider than the width of the board is applied to the prepared surface. The glue is evenly distributed over the area using a notched trowel.

Spacer wedges are placed between the first row and the wall. When laying the boards, they must be joined immediately using locking joints. Each laid plank is pressed for better grip. After laying the entire row, it must be additionally secured with self-tapping screws. They are screwed at an angle into the grooves of the lock.

The operation is repeated. Apply glue and lay the next row with a shift of half or a third of the length. First, the ends of adjacent boards are connected, then they are attached to the previous row. If a gap has formed, you need to get rid of it immediately, move the row using wooden block and a hammer.

The finished coating is left for several days until the glue dries completely. After this, the baseboard and thresholds are installed. It would be a good idea to treat the floor special composition, which will fill the joints and create a perfectly flat surface.

Installation using additional fasteners

The third option is ideal for creating a floor on a wooden base. These could be logs, a base made of plywood or OSB, or old floorboards. A special feature of the method is that each board is attached to the base using screws or staples.

The optimal floor created using this method seems to be a structure on joists. The advantages of this approach are obvious - heat-insulating or sound-insulating materials can be laid in the space between the beams.

Parquet boards can be laid directly on the joists; in this case, you need to choose thick (at least 22 mm) material. The logs should lie at a short distance from each other (less than 0.5 m). The board is fastened across the joists, the joints should be located in the middle of the joists.

There is another way to create a floor on joists; it will take more time, but will help save on material. An additional advantage is the fact that owners are not limited to simple longitudinal laying; they can lay the board diagonally, creating complex patterns, for example, a herringbone pattern. In this case, sheets of plywood with a total thickness of about 20 mm are attached directly to the logs, and a parquet board is already attached to it. This significantly simplifies the installation work and removes the limitation on the thickness of the board.

Parquet boards are a good choice for a beautiful and practical floor covering. The board is perfect for stylish apartment And country house. It is easy to work with, its installation does not require special equipment and skills, even a beginner can handle it. Parquet boards are not that expensive, and when laid with trowels, they are in no way inferior to noble parquet.

The service life of the coating, its performance, and appearance depend on the quality of the parquet installation. Therefore, when deciding to carry out installation yourself, you must first thoroughly study the features of the process, draw up an action plan, and prepare a set of specialized tools.

A bonus will be a thematic video “laying parquet: a video with step-by-step instructions”, which clearly teaches the correct actions, which can be found at the end of the article. As for the parquet itself, everything is simple here. Piece - its most popular option, practical and easy to use, secured by lock system“tenon and groove” with plank thickness from 15 to 22 mm, length - up to 50 cm and width - up to 75 mm. Below are several options for laying the material.

Laying block parquet is almost as simple as laying parquet boards, but there can be many more pattern options

Regardless of how the piece parquet will be laid (there are several installation methods), important condition - proper preparation grounds. The base can be made on the basis of a concrete screed, cement screed or logs. If this is the third option, then the first layer is formed from roofing felt, covering it with logs and plywood to level the surface, heat and sound insulation of the coating. In addition, plywood sheets as an auxiliary layer guarantee a high level of durability of the finished floor.

If we are talking about concrete screed, then the surface of the base is carefully leveled with self-leveling mixtures, if necessary, sanded for additional evenness, cleaned and dried. Square-shaped plywood sheets are also used as an intermediate layer, fixed to the base with dowel nails.

It is important not to forget about a gap of at least 1 mm between the sheets in case the material expands under the influence of temperature changes and moisture. Another gap of strategic importance is the expansion joint between the wall surface and the plywood - at least 2 mm. For convenience, at this stage wedges are used, which are removed during installation of the skirting boards.

This option for the intermediate layer is also possible

The cement screed used as a base for a parquet floor must also be dry, clean, level and practical. Height differences of more than a millimeter per two square meters are not allowed. Floor humidity should be between 2% and 4%.

To improve the adhesion of parquet to the floor, it would be advisable to treat the base with primer mixtures before installation. The glue and primer must be combined with each other - the quality of adhesion depends on this. When humidity levels exceed the norm, a polyurethane composition is used to create a waterproofing barrier. Primer mixtures are applied using a spatula or roller.

Just as in the previous two cases, it would be correct to lay sheets of plywood between the cement base and the parquet to improve sound and thermal insulation properties. Optimal parameters intermediate material - 1.5 × 1.5 meters with a thickness of 12 mm. The plywood is secured to the base with self-tapping screws or parquet glue; as an option, the use of screws is also allowed, although this method is not the most practical, since over time the floor under the parquet will become loose and cause squeaking.

It is not necessary to make the entire floor from scratch; you can often use an existing one

Another option for installing parquet is on an old wooden floor. Here, work can begin only after thorough preparation of the base, solving the problems of creaking, dips, deformations and other defects.

Before laying parquet on an old floor, it is dismantled in damaged areas, repaired, sanded, cleaned and dried. Plywood sheets In this case, they will not be needed as an intermediate layer, since its role will be played by the wood base itself.

Options for installing block parquet - what methods are used

Most often, laying parquet with your own hands is done using the floating method. This option is the simplest, since the floor elements are equipped with a special locking system and are quite simply attached to each other without dust, dirt or extra effort. The joining of the planks occurs according to the “tenon and groove” principle. When performing installation using this system, you need to remember that the floor is not fixed to the base, which means it will be especially susceptible to changes in the microclimate in the room. Hence the name - floating installation method.

To prevent deformation of the coating, you should not forget about the gap between the planks of the first row and the wall (at least 1 cm), which is subsequently masked by baseboards.

Block parquet strip with grooves

The boards are laid using the floating method on a layer of vapor barrier and sound insulation. Convenient to use for this cork material, the porous structure of which increases its thermal insulation properties.

The advantage of the floating method is the high speed of installation, ease of operation, absence of dust and dirt, as well as the ability to repair the floor in certain areas during operation if necessary.

When laying block parquet on a plywood floor using glue, you need to be careful so that there are no cracks or gaps left

The technology for laying block parquet with glue will be somewhat different. First of all, this option involves preparing materials for the work. This is necessarily a high-quality parquet one- or two-component adhesive (preferably water based) roller, brushes, spatula for application, as well as a drill with an attachment to obtain a homogeneous mass.

The floorboards are mounted on a base coated with glue (only the area for one row is prepared), with them simultaneously connected using a locking system. Just as in the previous case, leave a gap of 1 cm between the wall and the planks of the first row, driving plastic or wooden wedges in this place.

Basic technologies for installing parquet flooring - laying nuances

In addition to options for fastening methods, there are also different installation methods that affect the appearance of the finished floor. The most commonly used types of masonry are:

deck;
"herringbone";
squares;
mosaic;
diamonds;
Sheremetyevo star.

Let's look at the differences between parquet laying in each option.

Deck laying is parquet boards, laid out longitudinally with each next row offset by half. This installation method helps to increase the level of floor rigidity. They mount the dies from the wall opposite the door, gradually moving towards the exit.

To obtain a floor that visually represents a seamless glossy surface, the planks are attached longitudinally to the light entering the window. Before installation, the dies of the first row are laid out taking into account the distance from the wall, marking the cutting line from the last element.

For strong fixation, before installing each subsequent row, at the junction of the two planks, connect the board of the next row, loosening it slightly to align the connection horizontally. Do this with all joints. A jigsaw is suitable for sawing planks. Such a tool will not damage the surface of the elements.

Parquet can also be laid diagonally using the deck method, having previously drawn a diagram on the base for ease of installation.

Deck laying looks interesting, despite the simplicity of the design

You can correctly lay parquet in a herringbone pattern using planks that have tongues on two corner sides and grooves on the other two sides. Installation is carried out in such a way that the connections are in the same direction.

The planks can be attached at an angle to the walls of 45 or 90 degrees. Installation begins with the lighthouse “herringbone”, that is, with the laying of the first two rows to set the main line. The initial “herringbone” must be perfectly level, so it is recommended to use a fishing line or a drawing to align the dies. The parquet is installed using glue with additional fixation using a locking system.

Parquet, laid with mosaic or wicker, consists of squares or rectangles of tiles. Posting a drawing is quite simple. To do this, the planks are laid out in the form of the desired geometric figure, aligning them perpendicular to each other with each subsequent one shifted to the side for a checkerboard effect.

Christmas tree laying is one of the most popular

There are many options for laying in this way, starting from a simple mosaic with alternating a circle of planks in one direction with a circle inside in a perpendicular direction and ending with crosses, stripes, etc. Just as in the previous case, installation begins with laying the beacon row. The figures can be placed at an angle of 45 degrees, which means high consumption parquet

You can lay parquet yourself using the Sheremetyevskaya Star technology using rectangular and inclined diamond-shaped elements. Mosaic laid on the floor in this way will decorate the interior. To achieve the desired effect, installation is carried out according to a pre-drawn pattern.

How to work with artistic parquet - features

Artistic parquet is a subtype of classic piece parquet with patterns formed by combining blocks with different parameters, colors, shades. These can be boards from one type of wood, or from several, different in appearance, but harmonious with each other in properties.

Covering based on artistic parquet has a number of advantages compared to conventional flooring:

the surface looks unusual and original, allowing you to emphasize the individuality of the interior of the room;
the finished floor does not require use additional elements decor, as it is a holistic harmonious composition;
service life exceeds several decades, subject to compliance with the rules of care and use, preserving appearance and performance qualities;
the coating is environmentally friendly and safe;
high level of heat and sound insulation properties;
ease of care;
possibility of carrying out repair and restoration work.

Correct installation of artistic parquet allows you to create interesting geometric patterns in a simple way- by connecting the dies into a tongue-and-groove pattern. Floor elements may differ in fiber pattern due to various options sawed. Artistic parquet is installed after finishing the walls and ceilings and fastening with communications.

An interesting pattern of artistic parquet always attracts attention and adds unusualness to the room.

During the work, the room is maintained at optimal temperature and humidity conditions. The temperature is within 18-23 degrees Celsius above zero, humidity - no more than 60%.

As for the installation itself, it consists of the same steps as the installation of conventional piece parquet. On initial stage prepare the base - it must be dry, clean and even, after which it is treated with primer mixtures, and a layer of thermal and waterproofing is arranged. Fasten the boards using one of the above methods, choosing best option laying from ready-made patterns or working according to an individual plan.

On final stage the coating is puttied, sanded, primed and varnished with a number of layers from two to seven. As an option, you can consider a coating based on oil mixtures or mastic, but in the case of artistic parquet, it is the varnish layer that will be most appropriate, since it can not only protect the floor, but also emphasize its luxury and elegance.