According to statistics, every second homeowner built his own home. According to their reviews, erecting a roof yourself is one of the most difficult stages for non-professional builders. Therefore, it is very important to approach this stage with a complete understanding of all the nuances of the process. To understand how to make a roof with your own hands, you need to study the device, installation technology, work order and features of fastening all components of the structure.

Types of roofs

First you need to decide on the form. Today the most popular types are:

Features of forms

Covering the roof with one single slope will save nerves and materials, since structurally this is the simplest option. If you make such a frame yourself, the labor intensity of the work will be minimal and the installation speed will be high. But this form has a drawback - there is no possibility of arranging a full-fledged attic or attic, since the under-roof space is too low.

A gable roof is installed much more often. It is a little more difficult to manufacture, but allows you to get more space. Compared to the hipped one, it has less complexity and mass, but it will be necessary to make triangular pediments at the ends of the building.

Gable - the most popular form

Before you start self-construction roofs with four slopes will require serious preparation. This system has more elements compared to the previous two. In addition, it is not possible to make full-fledged windows in the attic, since the roof structure does not have gables and installation is difficult or cannot be avoided.

The hipped roof is complex in design, but savings are achieved due to the absence of gables

For an attic, an excellent option would be a combined design with. In this case, in the lower part the roof has a greater slope than in the upper section. This assembly allows you to raise the ceiling in the room and make the constructed house more comfortable.

Broken line - not the most “architectural”, but very effective in terms of space used

Calculation

Before starting work, you need to make a design calculation. It makes no sense to calculate the cross sections of all elements. In most cases they can be accepted constructively:

• Mauerlat - 150x150 mm;
• racks - 100x150 or 100x100 mm depending on the cross-section of the rafters;
• struts - 100x150 or 50x150 mm, taking into account ease of connection with the rafters;
• puffs - 50x150 mm on both sides;
• purlins - 100x150 or 150x50 mm;
• overlays with thickness from 32 to 50 mm.

Calculations are usually performed only for rafter and slope legs. It is necessary to select the height and width of the section. The parameters depend on:

• roofing material;
• snow area;
• pitch of rafters (selected so that it is convenient to lay insulation, for mineral wool there should be 58 cm of clearance between the elements);
• span.

You can select the cross section of the rafters using general recommendations. But in this case it is recommended to make a small reserve.

The calculation is usually performed for rafter legs

If you don’t want to delve into the intricacies of calculations, you can use special ones.

If you are planning to do warm roof, then the height of the cross-section of the legs is selected taking into account the thickness of the insulation. It must be mounted so that it does not protrude above the supporting beams. You also need to take into account what is done for mineral wool ventilation gap 2-4 cm between it and the coating. If the height of the rafters is not enough for this, provision is made for installing a counter-lattice (counter battens).

Step-by-step instructions for performing the work

The sequence of stages of roof construction is as follows:

1. taking measurements of the building box (dimensions may slightly differ from the design ones);
2. preparation of materials and tools, treatment of wood with antiseptic;
3. fastening the Mauerlat to the wall;
4. installation of a ridge crossbar, if needed (for layered rafters);
5. frame installation;
6. strengthening the roof using racks, struts and tie-downs;
7. waterproofing;
8. sheathing;
9. providing ventilation;
10. installation of drips;
11. installation of coating.

Fastening the Mauerlat

In order for the roof to be securely fastened, you need to take care of it reliable connection with the wall of the building. If a wooden house is being built, then the Mauerlat is not required - the upper crown made of timber or logs acts as this element. In this case, fastening to the wall is carried out using special “floating” fasteners. They are sold ready-made, most often called sleds. This type of roof arrangement allows the entire structure to shift slightly as the walls shrink without destruction or deformation.

“Sliding” fastening in a wooden house

A similar situation arises with a frame house. In this case, the Mauerlat will be top harness walls It is attached to the frame posts with a gash using angles, staples or nails.

Methods for attaching rafters to the frame in frame house

The roof structure made of brick, concrete blocks or concrete involves fastening through a Mauerlat. In this case, there are several ways.

There are four ways to place the Mauerlat on the wall:

• on staples;
• on stiletto heels;
• on anchor bolts.

The Mauerlat can be secured to brackets. In this case, in the masonry with inside pawn wooden blocks. They should be located at a distance of 4 rows from the edge. One side of the bracket is attached to the mauerlat, and the other to the same block in the masonry. The method can also be considered simple. It is not recommended for large buildings with high loads.

Fastening the Mauerlat to brackets. Antiseptic wooden blocks are provided in the masonry of the wall with a pitch of 1-1.5 m

When installing the roof yourself, fastening can be done through studs or anchor bolts with a diameter of 10-12 mm. The fasteners are laid in the masonry. The Mauerlat is temporarily placed on the sawn-off edge and lightly hit with a hammer. After this, indentations remain on the beam at the fastening points. You need to make holes for the studs along them. After this, the beam is put on the fasteners and the nuts are tightened. The method is ideal for walls made of lightweight concrete with a monolithic reinforced belt.

Attaching the rafters to the mauerlat

In houses made of brick or stone, it is more reasonable to perform it using rigid fastening of the rafters to the mauerlat. In this case, you can use both a layered and hanging system. The design involves two methods:

• with notch;
• without cutting.

In the first case, the rafters are cut with a slope so that they are tightly adjacent to the mauerlat. To remove the cornice, fillies are provided. They are attached to the leg with an overlap of at least 1 m. Rigid fixation of the assembly should be done using self-tapping screws, nails or staples. But more reliable assembled frame will work if metal corners with holes for self-tapping screws are used for fixation.

The method without cutting often does not involve the use of fillies. In this case, the beams themselves provide the frame extension. This option is simpler than the previous one, since it does not require high precision. It is suitable for beginners. In this case, stop bars or boards are used to ensure a tight fit to the Mauerlat. Rigid fixation, as in the previous case, is performed with metal corners on both sides.

Attaching rafters to the wall

The completed frame must be secured to the frame of the building - this will prevent a strong gust of wind from tearing off the roof. To do this, the rule is to use a twist of two wires with a diameter of 4 mm. They are wrapped around the leg where it rests on the Mauerlat, and then the wire is attached to the wall with an anchor or ruff about 4-5 rows before the cut. The element must be laid in the masonry in advance.

Wind protection

For wooden house you can simplify the task. You can assemble the frame using staples. This option will speed up the process. But it is important to remember that such the method will work, only if the walls are made of wood.

Strengthening the system

How to strengthen the frame for spans of more than 6 meters? It is necessary to reduce the free span of the rafters. For this purpose, struts and racks are used. Reinforcement must be done taking into account the layout; it is important that these elements do not interfere with people’s stay and fit harmoniously into the interior.

The struts are usually placed at an angle of 45 or 60 degrees to the horizontal plane. The racks cannot be supported on the floor span. They can be installed on underlying walls or beams and trusses thrown between walls.

Tightening is necessary to reduce the thrust. Because of it, the rafters can simply move apart. This is especially true for systems with hanging beams. To assemble the frame, use two ties, which are attached on both sides of the rafters. Fixation is carried out using screws, nails or studs.

At the top point, the rafters rest on an intermediate or ridge run. Depending on the chosen system, location and width of the span, it is made of timber with a cross-section from 50x100 to 100x200 mm. Fastening is carried out on connecting metal plates, bolts or nails.

Lathing

Before starting work at this stage, it is necessary to lay waterproofing material. Builders recommend using a vapor diffusion moisture-proof membrane. It costs more than plastic film, but guarantees more reliable protection. Owning your own home is not a reason to save money.

The roof requires fastening of the sheathing. The type depends on the selected roofing material. For metal, a sparse sheathing of boards 32-40 mm thick will be sufficient. Under bitumen shingles you need a continuous sheathing made of 25-32 mm boards or moisture-resistant plywood.

Ventilation of the under-roof space

Before proceeding with the roofing stage, it is worth considering the ventilation of the under-roof space. This will protect structures from mold, mildew and destruction.

Correct arrangement ventilation under the roof will protect the structure from the appearance of fungus

For ventilation it is necessary to provide:

• air flow through the cornice (the cornice is hemmed with a sparse board or special perforated soffits);
• air movement under the covering (there should be a gap of 2-3 cm between the insulation and the roof);
• air outlet in the area of ​​the ridge (for this, a ridge and/or point aerator is installed on the roof).

Roof covering

The type of roof is selected for aesthetic and economic reasons. It is also worth studying the manufacturers’ proposals and finding out the permissible slope. For example, it is not recommended to lay bitumen shingles on a slope of more than 45°.

Seam roofing is a lightweight fireproof and durable covering

The flooring material must provide reliable waterproofing. Its installation is carried out in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. There are five most common types of coverage: roof insulation.

Roofing work has been valued at all times of construction. Thanks to this, we now have high-quality protection from bad weather above our heads. Over time, all roofing materials have changed, their production formulas have become more complex, and therefore their quality has increased. Today, one of the most popular roofing materials is corrugated sheeting. This article will talk about how to cover a roof with corrugated sheets with your own hands, and at the end you will be presented with a video so that you can be guided in practice.

Material characteristics

Profiled metal sheets are a very effective and durable product. They are made from high quality rolled steel with some protective layers. If the material is expensive, then it can be equipped with zinc and polymer protection. They do not allow moisture to affect the base metal, however, we will talk about this a little later.

The length of the sheet depends on the manufacturer. The maximum possible value is 12 meters. Such sheets are purchased on the markets quite rarely, so the factories decided to discontinue production of this length and focus on the most purchased copies. However, if you need exactly this length, you can order it from the manufacturer directly. As for the width, it almost always comes with a fixed value of 1180 millimeters, but again, all indicators depend on the manufacturer’s equipment.

The basis of the profiled sheet metal is steel. This material is durable and has its own resistance to corrosion, but prolonged exposure to moisture on any surface will somehow cause it to collapse. To prevent the metal from corroding, it is coated thin layer zinc In addition, polymer films may be present on the sheet. They not only protect the metal sheet from corrosion, but also increase its aesthetic properties.

The strength of the material depends on the thickness of the base and its profile. The recesses of the corrugated sheet can be different, for example, trapezoidal or square. The greatest rigidity is observed in the material with maximum thickness and square-shaped recesses.

Advantages and disadvantages of profiled sheets

Every developer should know how strong and weaknesses this or that product has. Not only successful construction, but also the duration of operation will depend on these data. By studying the positive and negative facts about roofing, you can immediately see whether it suits you or not.

The advantages of profiled metal sheet are as follows.

• Cheapness. Today, some types of metal sheets are practically no different in price from asbestos slate.
• High rigidity. Thick sheets of metal can be used not only as a covering, but also instead of interfloor coverings, although such houses have a frame type of walls.

• Easy to install. Thanks to the variety of lengths, you can choose sheets that will completely cover the slope. Thus, there will be a minimum number of joints on the surface, which will significantly increase waterproofing performance. This way you can quickly, and most importantly, properly cover the roof.
• Light weight. The low weight of the coating allows the use of thin-section lumber in the rafter system. This significantly reduces the load on the walls and foundation, and affects the final cost of the development.
• Aesthetic indicators. Today the construction market offers many color solutions for metal sheets.
• Long-term operation. If you are choosing a coating for a residential building, I advise you to consider more expensive products. They contain special protective layers of polymers that do not allow moisture to affect the core of the sheet. On average, this coating can last on the roof for 30-40 years.

Due to smooth surface corrugated sheeting removes sediment naturally. This can be attributed to both pros and cons. If a steeply sloping surface is taken as the base, then snow holders must be installed on it in order to control the melting of snow masses.

Well, where are there no minuses?

To cover a roof with corrugated sheets, you need to acquire a fairly large amount of thermal insulation materials. Products that are not afraid of moisture are best suited for metal roofs, but most developers use ordinary mineral wool boards. The presence of a thick layer of thermal insulation solves two problems at once. Firstly, the thermal conductivity of the roof decreases, and secondly, the sound insulation properties increase.

Metal coatings have always stood out for their ability to accumulate condensation. There is no escape from this, so all that remains is to fight. To eliminate high humidity in the attic and roofing pie is arranged natural ventilation. If you know that it will not be enough, then you can equip the roof with artificial ventilation elements.

Purchase and transportation of material

As it turns out, many novice developers cannot determine the quality of the material by appearance. However, you can make a mistake even if you have a good understanding of roofing coverings. Let me point out that today underground production produces decent, but not very high-quality products.

To avoid purchasing low-quality profiled sheets, first of all pay attention to the following points:

• Blisters or small scratches on the polymer protection. Damage to the integrity of this layer will indicate that the metal base in some place will not have protection. Why then overpay serious money for such a product if you can get a cheap galvanized sheet?
• Dents and bends. If the metal sheet is deformed, then we can say with confidence that the protective layer has peeled off from the base. But it is worth noting that this only happens with cheap products; more expensive polymer layers do not peel off even after serious deformation.
• Damage to protective film , coming after the polymer layer. Here you will have to inspect the products almost with a magnifying glass; it will be much easier to ask the seller than to divide the metal into parts. If the sheet was cut in a factory, then everything is in order, but if a grinder was used as a tool, then there is no point in talking about any protection, since it burned out during cutting.

You also need to be careful during loading and unloading procedures. If you do not know the seller, then it is better not to trust him. Some of my friends got burned at this very stage. They were present during loading and unloading, but did not inspect the goods individually. When did they start filming? top sheets metal from the pack, it turned out that almost everything there was defective.

Construction and roofing pie under corrugated sheeting

To cover a roof with corrugated sheeting, you need not only to understand the material itself, but also to make a high-quality base. Both wood and metal can be used as the main materials for assembling the frame and sheathing. It is worth understanding that the latter option is expensive, but more durable. One way or another, the vast majority of developers prefer to use ordinary wood.

The tree is natural material, so it will be destroyed under the influence of the environment. For protection roofing elements special antiseptics and fire retardants are used. They can be applied manually, using a spray bottle, or using the bath method. The first two methods save a lot of protective solution, but the impregnation does not penetrate into the wood. Bath method requires a lot of protective substance, but after impregnating the element once, you can forget about this procedure for many years.

All elements rafter system must be durable and of high quality. As a rule, hard wood is used for this.

You already know that profiled metal sheets are lightweight, so there is no need to make a skeleton from large-section lumber. The only thing that is really important is to protect the roofing pie from the harmful effects of moisture.

An ideal roofing pie for metal roofs will look something like this:

• Vapor barrier material
• Counter-lattice
• Lathing
• Underlay carpet
• Thermal insulation layer
• Waterproofing
• Roof covering

I think there is no need to describe the purpose of each of the points here, but I want to draw attention to the counter-lattice. This system creates air gap between the roof skeleton and the roofing pie. Thanks to this, the steam emanating from inside the premises will simply be blown away by the wind. This is very important, given the disadvantage of the accumulation of large amounts of condensate.

Now, let's figure out how to properly cover a roof with corrugated sheeting.

How to cover a roof with corrugated sheets with your own hands?

Many developers ask the same question: “How to cover a roof with corrugated sheets with your own hands correctly?” It will not be possible to answer this question right away, because first you need to study the building area, the amount of precipitation, prevailing winds and other nuances that affect the roofing. It is worth noting that you can cover the roof with corrugated sheets with your own hands, even if you do not understand construction, and this is a serious plus of this product.

On some sites I noticed the following expression: we cover the roof with corrugated sheeting only if the slope of the slope is more than 12 degrees. Minimum slope for metal roofs it really is 12-14 degrees, but for some reason I haven’t found information anywhere on how to remove the restrictions. In order to cover a roof with a profiled sheet with a slope of less than 12 degrees, it is enough to use an additional waterproofing layer, the so-called lining, and high-quality sealant. It processes vertical and horizontal joints.

Let's consider a technology that will answer the question: how to properly cover a roof with corrugated sheeting with your own hands.

Preparatory work

On at this stage it is necessary to calculate the need for materials, purchase and deliver it to the site. In addition, acquire all the necessary tools and uniforms. Be careful when working with metal sheets. If you do all the work yourself, I advise you to purchase special gloves. In appearance, they are somewhat reminiscent of chain mail armor, but when working in them you definitely won’t cut yourself or lose your fingers.

To cover the roof with corrugated sheets with your own hands, you need to acquire the necessary fasteners. Special screws with a rubber washer are suitable here. Thanks to the lining, all fastening areas will have a good connection with the base, therefore, the tightness of the roof will increase.

If the installation process is carried out with negative temperatures, then special shoes and uniforms are selected. As for things, they simply should not hinder your movements, but special attention should be paid to shoes. It should not slide on the metal surface. If you do not have the opportunity to find all this, then it is better not to risk it and wait for suitable conditions.

Now, I’m ready to answer the main question: “how to properly cover a roof with corrugated sheeting?”

Installation work

After laying the Mauerlat and placing the rafter beams in their places, you can begin laying the vapor barrier layer. Here it is best to use a membrane that allows steam to pass through without problems. This will significantly reduce the amount of condensation that accumulates in the attic. It is very important not to stretch the vapor barrier fabric, otherwise there is a risk of it breaking. Release the tension and let it sag a little.

The installation of counter-lattice on metal roofs is simply necessary. Again, it's all about condensation. Thanks to the counter-lattice, an additional path is created for the inflow and outflow of air, which allows you to draw out excess moisture from the attic.

Next comes the installation of the sheathing. Profiled metal sheets have sufficient rigidity to be laid on a discharged surface. The optimal pitch of the sheathing elements is 40-60 centimeters. However, if necessary, you can reduce or, conversely, increase these values.

After installing the sheathing, we look at the functional purpose of the building. If this is a residential building, then we lay out the lining carpet. Otherwise, we immediately cover the roof with corrugated sheeting. If you plan to do all the work yourself, then look at the roof slope. On steeply sloped roofs, the lining can be laid locally, only in places of high humidity, but if thermal insulation material does not repel water, you will have to cover the entire surface.

Small blocks can be laid on top of the insulating boards. They will lift the insulating layer from above and allow air to dry the insides of the roofing cake. Top waterproofing should be chosen from those products that block moisture in only one direction. The same membranes are ideal for this role.

You can start laying the roof covering itself from any side of the roof. It is ideal if you select sheets of equal size to the slope. This way you can achieve a minimum number of seams, and with this the efficiency of the entire roofing area. Fasteners must fit bottom part waves, and if the sheets are joined together, then at the top.

The installation of the roofing part of the buildings will be completed with the installation of auxiliary elements in the form of fittings for ventilation and chimney pipes.

As you can see, even an inexperienced developer can cover a roof, but the nuances must not be overlooked.

How to do all the work efficiently?

I often hear similar expressions from developers: “we cover the roof with corrugated sheets with our own hands, but we can’t achieve the quality that roofing crews offer, why?” The answer is quite simple, although it requires some research.

Before properly covering the roof, you need to plan everything in advance. Experienced roofers already have a list of approximate actions, and they follow them without hesitation. An example would be material inspection. Taking a sheet of metal in their hands, they can easily identify its quality by color, weight and layers. Today, on construction market so many quality fakes, so beginners make mistakes quite often when choosing the right material.

If you don’t understand how to properly cover a roof, I suggest watching this video:

The next reason lies in the developer’s unwillingness to carry out all the work at once. Let's look at this situation with an example. If you cover the roof with corrugated sheets with your own hands, then you can spend a lot of time on this procedure. You are not bothered by deadlines, and no one is forcing you to do this. Consequently, an unfinished building can stand for a very long time, as a result of which all roofing materials stored on outdoors may be damaged or lose a significant part of their positive properties.

By the way, a portable and inexpensive wood moisture meter is available for sale. Such a device will allow you to determine whether it is possible to install lumber or not.

IMPORTANT: Almost every person can properly cover a roof with corrugated sheets, the main thing is that all actions are clearly planned and the entire process of laying the roofing sheet does not take more than two weeks.

“How to properly cover a roof with corrugated sheeting and is it possible to do it yourself?” - these are the questions asked by every home owner who has decided to use corrugated sheeting as a covering for the roof of his house or outbuildings. Corrugated sheet metal as a roofing material is a leader not only in terms of price-quality ratio, but also in ease of installation. If you act step by step and strictly follow the simple technology, then covering the roof with corrugated sheeting will not cause any particular difficulties.

For the roof, choose metal profiles of grade H57 or NS35. H57 corrugated sheeting with an additional stiffening rib, the so-called load-bearing one, is ideal as a roofing material, but a bit expensive. Usually they use the universal NS35, it is suitable in quality and more affordable in cost. You can choose a regular galvanized sheet, or one with a polymer coating, it all depends on your wishes and wallet. Before covering the roof with corrugated sheeting, you need to decide on the number of sheets of material and additional elements. If the roof is simple enough, then you can do the calculation yourself. Roof slopes are rectangles, isosceles trapezoids or triangles, that is, the length of the slope is the measurement from the ridge to the base, add 5 cm and get the length of the metal profile sheet.
When roofing with corrugated sheeting, it is desirable that the slope be covered in length with one sheet, since the fewer overlaps, the more reliable the roof, but if you still have to cover it in several rows, then you need to add 20 cm for each overlap. Hence:

• LENGTH OF SHEET OF PROFILE SHEETS = LENGTH of slope + 5 cm, if the roof will be covered in one sheet.
• LENGTH OF THE PROFILE SHEET = LENGTH of the slope + 5 cm + 20 cm (for each row with overlap), if the roof will be covered in several horizontal rows.

The number of corrugated sheets is calculated according to the school geometry course. The area of ​​each slope is calculated and divided by the working area of ​​the profiled sheet. CALCULATION EXAMPLE: The ramp is a trapezoid. We take measurements:
The roof can be covered in 2 rows of 4.3 m each - 20 cm will be left for the overlap, 5 cm for the overhang, and you get a working LENGTH of the sheet = 4.3 m-0.2 m-0.05 m = 4.05 m. For Each type of metal profile has its own working width, but in this example we consider the most common corrugated roofing sheet NS35. The useful width of the NS35 metal profile sheet is 1 m, so the working area of ​​the sheet for such a slope is 4.05 × 1 = 4.05 m2. We count the number of sheets: 128:4.05=31.6, that is, you will need 32 sheets of metal profiles of 4.3 m each. You can take and cover the roof with one sheet 8.15 m long, you will need 128:8.15=15 such sheets, 7, that is 16 sheets. But will it be convenient to work with such a length yourself... If the roof is “broken”, with many bends, you need to unroll all the slopes and count the number of sheets for each slope and fold them. You can also contact specialists; they have special programs that will make calculations and even a diagram better styling. There are also online calculators for calculating the amount of corrugated sheeting, but before entering the data into the program, check the correctness of their calculation using a simple example, at least the one given above. Depending on the type of roof, additional elements are also purchased, such as ridges, end, eaves and butt strips, and screws for fastening them. Self-tapping screws are purchased at the rate of 11 pieces per 1 m2. Thus, before covering the roof with corrugated sheeting, you need to carry out painstaking work on measuring and counting all the materials that will be used in the work. You should work through this stage very carefully so as not to interrupt work in the future due to a lack of some parts.

Standard stage. Insulation and vapor barrier

Corrugated roof for our climatic conditions definitely requires insulation. The insulation technology is the same as for all other types of covering: mineral wool between the rafters and a vapor barrier layer, the insulation layer must be at least 15 cm.

Hydrobarrier

In order to protect the heat-insulating layer from moisture and prevent roof leaks, a waterproofing layer is laid. This is a mandatory stage and cannot be neglected. Let's look at how to properly waterproof a roof. It is better to choose modern ones for corrugated roofing waterproofing materials. Both membrane and polypropylene films are widely used. The technology for laying them is very simple. If the roof is new, being built from scratch, then, of course, it is better to use a membrane. The waterproofing layer is unrolled over the main rafters in horizontal rows. The overlap of the top row on the bottom should be 15 cm, the film should sag slightly, sag by 2 centimeters (but there should remain a distance between the insulation layer and the waterproofing of about 3 cm) and is stapled to the rafters, the overlaps should be taped with adhesive tape.
If you plan to simply cover a roof with corrugated sheets that were previously covered with another material, then there is no point in using a membrane. Dense thick plastic film lay on top of an old insulating layer, for example, roofing felt. In any case, the waterproofing is fastened using a stapler, and the joints are glued with construction tape.

Counter-lattice and sheathing

After the waterproofing layer has been laid, the counter-lattice is installed. Along the main rafters, on top of the hydraulic barrier, bars are placed with gaps of 20 mm. For counter-lattice, 25×40 mm bars are usually used. Lathing is placed on the counter-lattice. For different types of corrugated sheets, different types sheathing pitch, the thinner the corrugated sheet and the smaller the roof slope angle, the smaller step battens. This article discusses how to properly cover a roof with corrugated sheeting, and therefore considers the recommended correct option for the roof - NS35 metal profile. However, in the table below we indicate the recommended step for different types profiled sheet.

Type of corrugated sheet	Roof slope	Corrugated sheet thickness	Lathing step
S-8	more than 15 degrees	0.55 mm	solid
P-18; MP-20; P-20; S-20	up to 15 degrees	0.7; 0.55 mm	solid
	more than 15 degrees	0.7; 0.55 mm	no more than 500 mm
NS-35	up to 15 degrees	0.7; 0.55 mm	no more than 500 mm
	more than 15 degrees	0.7; 0.55 mm	no more than 1000 mm
S-44	up to 15 degrees	0.7; 0.55 mm	no more than 500 mm
	more than 15 degrees	0.7; 0.55 mm	no more than 1000 mm
N-60		0.7; 0.8; 0.9 mm	no more than 3000 mm
N-75	less than 8 degrees is not allowed	0.7; 0.8; 0.9 mm	no more than 4000 mm

For lathing, 30x40 mm slats are usually used. They begin to be filled in horizontal rows from the eaves to the ridge in increments of 500-1000 mm, depending on the angle of the roof. The slats are spliced ​​only on the rafters. For all these works, galvanized nails are used. The length of the nails should be 2 times the thickness of the lath. It is advisable to make a continuous sheathing on the ridge and on the eaves of the roof; in the places where the pipes exit, on the valleys it is necessary to fill additional bars, to which additional materials will then be attached to decorate them. Ideally, a cross-sectional diagram of a roof with corrugated sheets looks like this:

Laying profiled sheets

The time has come to directly attach the corrugated sheeting to the roof. The sheets are fastened only with special roofing screws with a rubber lining near the cap and a drill at the end, matching the color of the corrugated sheets. For fastening, use a regular screwdriver. First, the cornice strip is attached.
The sheets are lifted onto the roof along inclined boards so as not to deform them. The first sheet begins to be laid from the lower corner of the roof, the sheets are carefully aligned with the eaves. The corrugated sheeting is fastened to the sheathing using self-tapping screws measuring 4.8×35 mm in the bottom wave..
There are several schemes for laying corrugated sheets, but the rules for working with corrugated sheets are always the same:

1. The lowest row (along the cornice) and the highest row (along the ridge) are attached with self-tapping screws to each deflection of the wave.
2. The middle of the slope is secured through the wave in a checkerboard pattern.
3. The screws are screwed in clearly perpendicular to the plane of the sheet; distortions are unacceptable.
4. The longitudinal step for fastening the sheet is 1 m.
5. Vertical overlaps between adjacent sheets amount to 1 wave (for flat roof 2 waves).
6. The top row lies on the bottom row with an overlap of 20 cm.
7. The horizontal overlap line is attached with self-tapping screws to each lower wave.
8. The corrugated sheets along the edges of the roof are attached to each sheathing strip.
9. Cutting of profiled sheets is done either with a jigsaw or electric scissors (not a grinder!).
10. You should move along the roof along the lower wave in soft shoes.

Since covering the roof correctly with corrugated sheeting is not so difficult, attaching the sheets should not take much time. After all the metal profile sheets have been secured, we begin to attach additional elements: ridges, end (wind) strips, snow guards. The ridge is attached with self-tapping screws into every second upper wave, with an overlap on the sides of 150-200 mm. The end (wind) strips are installed with an overlap of at least 50 mm.
All additional elements are fastened with special long screws for metal profiles - 4.8 × 50 (60) mm.

The use of galvanizing for “difficult” moments

It is very convenient to cover the valleys with ordinary galvanized iron or painted metal. To do this, a regular sheet is bent to the angle of the valley and nailed to the sheathing, and corrugated sheeting is laid on top. For decorative design of this element, in order to close a corner that is not suitable in color, you can install an upper valley strip that matches color scheme. To insulate the pipe, you can also use a metal sheet bent in the letter Z, the upper bend is sawed 2 cm into the pipe, the lower bend is attached to the sheathing, and corrugated sheeting is laid on top. To get comprehensive answers to the question: “How to cover a roof with corrugated sheets with your own hands” and learn some tricks, you can watch the following video tutorials.

Corrugated sheeting is universal building material, which is used for a variety of purposes. More and more often you can see elegant and very attractive roofs covered with bright sheets corrugated sheets Mostly there are monochromatic coverings, but there are also geometric patterns in the form of stripes and rectangles, which give the roofs of a house special style and individuality.

How to cover a roof with corrugated sheeting and how to properly care for the corrugated sheet? Once you become familiar with the features of this process, you will be able to work with this coating yourself.

Advantages of laying corrugated sheets on the roof of a house

Before considering the features for the roof of a building, let’s determine the advantages of such a material. Before starting work, many people wonder how to cover the roof with corrugated sheeting in such a way as not to attract expensive construction crews. This is precisely one of the most important advantages of this coating - we make this kind of roofing ourselves.

Two or three people will be enough, even if they do not have special knowledge. Roof installation is very simple, its rules are accessible even to beginners. at home or you can arrange it from scratch in a couple of days.

The question of how to make a corrugated roof strong and reliable disappears immediately if you study the characteristics of this material. Corrugated sheets are made from cold-rolled metal sheets, which are often coated with polymer on top.

The thickness of the material makes it resistant to wind loads, and the paint layer prevents precipitation and corrosion from damaging the coating. So the installation in this case will be reliable.

The cost of the material differs in availability, as well as the quantity of all additional materials for the roof of a house.

Thus, the questions of how and how reliable it is are resolved very simply.

Features of self-laying corrugated sheets

How to properly cover a roof with corrugated sheeting and close it interfloor ceilings? Installation using corrugated sheets is quite simple, but there are still some features that need to be taken into account. These include delivering the material and lifting it onto the roof of the house - care must be taken so as not to scratch or damage the profiled sheets for the future roof. It is also important to cover the sheathing correctly and carefully.

We must not forget about safety: when we ourselves begin to work with metal, it is necessary to wear protective gloves and clothing; you can only walk on the roof in soft shoes, stepping on the ridge.

When installing, it is important to correctly determine the type of rafter system and the pitch of the rafters; the performance will be affected by the overhang angle and the type of profiled sheet. We cover the roof of the house, taking into account these parameters.

Laying rules

Installation of sheets and arrangement of the roof are simple. First, we need to determine the installation option. Next, we make a boardwalk under the valley planks and attach the end strips.

We begin the installation of the roof by laying the eaves strip, which should be located below waterproofing film. After this, we start from the end; in cases with hip roofs, we start from the center of the hip. For fastening, one sheet requires from seven to eight self-tapping screws; some joints are recommended to be processed using steel rivets.

All sheets must be aligned before final strengthening along the end of the roof slope! The overlap of the material, depending on the angle of the slope, will be from one hundred fifty to two hundred millimeters, it should not be less than one wave.

Installation of corrugated sheeting near valleys, ridges, pipes

The technology for laying corrugated sheets involves the design metal sheet places near valleys, pipes, roof ridge. Let's look at how you can do this yourself.

1. Gutter device dormer window, that is, the design of a short valley. To do this, we ourselves cut the sheet at the lower end of the groove into two equal parts (we take this into account when calculating the material for installation). First we put bottom sheet, then the bottom strip, the last one is the roofing sheet.
2. We install the end strip ourselves. The length of such a plank is two meters, the overlap of the material should be from fifty to one hundred millimeters. Installation begins from the overhang side towards the ridge of the roof. Around the ridge, the excess must be cut off, all end strip At the same time, it covers no less than one wave of corrugated sheeting. Now the plank is attached to the end board and profiled sheets in the ridge, the fastening step is one meter.
3. Installation of ridge strip. Here you can use special smooth elements for skates; experts recommend laying seals under the corrugated sheets, either repeating or with fine corrugation. The length of the overlap should be from one hundred millimeters; on the sheet side, the plank is attached using self-tapping screws in increments of up to four hundred millimeters. All fastenings that we make ourselves must go into the groove or under the casing. For protection we use a ridge seal: for a lateral connection we take a longitudinal seal; on steep slopes it can not be used.
4. Installation of pass-through elements or outlet pipes. All outlet pipes, which we also install ourselves, consist of an upper part (the pipe itself) and a lower part (selected according to the roof profile). It is advisable to immediately install a snow barrier. The diameter of the pipes should be about one hundred millimeters, ventilation pipes needs to be insulated.

Seals and screws for corrugated sheets

So, let's cover the roof of the house. The technology requires the use of special screws and seals. Self-tapping screws are made of galvanized, hardened steel. They have a special gasket made of EPDM elastomer, their caps are made of polyester, thermally strengthened powder, which guarantees highest quality, resistance to corrosion, mechanical damage, ultraviolet rays.

Corrugated sheet fastening diagram.

The technical characteristics of the self-tapping screws are as follows:

• dimensions – 35*4.8;
• surface treatment – ​​electrolytic galvanizing from 12 microns;
• self-tapping screws contain stabilizers that help prevent aging during negative impact ultraviolet rays;
• outer covering of the cap powder paints thickness from 50 microns;
• Gaskets can be made of polymer or aluminum sheet (for valleys).

Often involves the use of special gaskets that serve as protection from snow, rain, wind, preventing them from falling under the surface of the flooring, due to the tight fit of the material to the planks. This increases service life truss structure, insulation, interior decoration of the house, sound and wind insulation is greatly increased.

Today, installation can be carried out using seals that match the shape of the corrugation of the flooring. In addition, there is a special seal for the ridge for 1.1 meters, reverse for 1.1 meters, universal for two meters, at an angle of forty-five degrees for 1.05 meters.

Care of roofing sheeting

Covering a roof with corrugated sheets with your own hands is not difficult, as is caring for it. For cleaning, rain is enough to make the surface clean again, but leaves, branches and other debris sometimes cannot be completely washed off with rainwater, so annual cleaning of the surface is recommended.

In the same way, it is necessary to regularly clean drainage systems and gutters. Areas that are stained or heavily soiled should be washed with a soft brush and plain water from a hose under a pressure of up to fifty bar.

If the dirt is sufficiently ingrained, you can use detergents for painted surfaces. We do it ourselves this way: apply the product to the surface of the roof, then give it a couple of minutes for a better effect and wash off clean water. We clean difficult stains with a clean rag soaked in solvent. After this, the roof must be rinsed with clean water.

Attention: we do not use products for cleaning the roof that are not intended for such work, as this can cause too much damage to the surface of the polymer and the sheet itself.

We remove snow and ice ourselves using plastic or wooden shovels; this must be done carefully to prevent scratches from occurring during cleaning.

Thus, the installation of corrugated sheeting differs from many other options in its simplicity, although it also has its own characteristics. Must be strictly followed simple rules laying, correctly calculating materials and taking into account the features of the rafter system. All that remains is to cover the sheathing with a corrugated sheet, and you don’t have to think about repairing the roof.

The roof is an important component of any home. It must be resistant to bad weather, damage of any type, and temperature changes. Big role plays and aesthetic side question. All these requirements are met by corrugated sheeting, which is universal material with an impressive number of positive characteristics. A natural question arises: how to properly cover a roof with corrugated sheeting with your own hands.

Profiled sheet and its main features

Many people today decide to cover their roof with corrugated sheets with their own hands. The product is not difficult to install and has a low cost. Corrugated sheeting covers buildings with pitched roofs, gazebos and terraces, utility facilities of any importance.

The corrugated sheet is made of steel. In this case, the cold profiling technique is used. This allows you to achieve high level strength and resistance to damage. The configuration of the corrugated sheet, represented by stiffening ribs, plays a huge role. Low price and variety of colors are additional advantages that allow you to worry about an attractive appearance Houses. You can cover the roof with a corrugated sheet yourself if you adhere to the specifications technological map and instructions. The correct execution of the roofing pie is also responsible for durability.

What is a roof structure?

The design of the roof rafter system must be done correctly. Initially, you should take into account a number of characteristics of the profiled sheet itself. Firstly, it is quite small. As a result, there is no need to strengthen the rafter system.

Second important characteristic– angle of inclination. It plays more of an aesthetic role, so you can rely on your own preferences and wishes. Most the best option the tilt angle will be 12 degrees. If a lower roof slope is selected, there is a need for additional work. These include sealant treatment of all horizontal and vertical overlaps. In this case, the vertical overlap is mounted so that it represents two waves.

To cover the roof yourself with corrugated sheeting, you must use an additional wall (load-bearing corrugated sheet). When arranging a roof with an impressive angle, you can use certain brands, including the following S-44, NS-20, NS-35. With a slight roof slope of 5-8 degrees, you can use self-supporting products of the N-75, N-60 brands.

In order to properly cover the roof with corrugated sheets, it is important to use timber with a cross-section of 30x100 mm to create sheathing and install rafters, the average step is 1 meter. It is necessary to use a larger section if the step is more than one meter, and the minimum value for the step is 30 cm. The best material to create is an unedged board.

An important point is the humidity regime of the roof pie. To organize it, you need to create quality roofing. To do this, waterproofing is placed on the rafters and a counter-lattice is secured to achieve optimal air gap between waterproofing and finishing metal coating. It should be remembered that before covering the roof, all wooden components should be treated with bioprotective and fire retardant compounds.

What will you need for self-installation?

To cover a roof with corrugated sheets with your own hands, you should prepare a number of tools. No complex equipment is needed, but the list includes the following:

• knife, rope, screwdriver, drill;
• tape measure, pencil, level;
• electric or cutting shears for metal;
• construction gun, stapler, hammer;
• sealant.

It is important to understand that corrugated sheeting is not resistant to increased temperature changes. Welding is not recommended. You can choose metal scissors, an electric jigsaw, or a fine-toothed hacksaw. Cold installation technology is also suitable.

How to choose seals and fasteners?

In order to properly cover the roof with corrugated sheeting, preference should be given to fasteners of the proper quality. Choose those that are made of steel that is galvanized and high-quality hardened. The element additionally has a neoprene rubber gasket to ensure sealing of the fastening.

Self-tapping screws are selected in accordance with a specific technical characteristics. Among them, the most important are the following:

1. Powder paint plays the role of decorative and protective coating, the thickness of which should vary from 50 microns.
2. The surface is electrolytically galvanized, the thickness is over 12 microns.
3. Dimensions can be selected from three options - 4.8x80, 4.8x60, 4.8x35 mm.
4. The protection gasket is made of aluminum or elastomer depending on the application.
5. The profiled sheet necessarily contains stabilizers that eliminate the negative effect of UV rays.

Experts advise covering the roof with corrugated sheeting and securing it with self-tapping screws that match the color scheme. Today, choosing the details of the required shade is not difficult.

In this case, the roof is covered with corrugated sheeting using sealants. Their material is polyurethane foam or polyethylene foam. The parts are laid between the corrugated sheet and the sheathing. The universal option has a rectangular cross-section, but it is best if products are used that repeat the shape of the profiled sheet.

Covering the roof with corrugated sheeting using sealants is becoming a current solution. As a result, they increase thermal insulation characteristics roof pie, increases the service life of the ceiling. Seals for corrugated sheets are extremely easy to install due to the presence of glue.

Covering the roof with corrugated sheeting using sealants will also be relevant when there is a need to eliminate gaps. In most cases, they occur when the corrugated sheeting adheres to the roof plane. If you don't close the gaps, cold air, birds and insects will get inside. The advantages of the material include durability, resistance to biofactors and moisture.

How to properly attach a corrugated sheet?

To properly cover a roof with corrugated sheets with your own hands, you should learn how to correctly fasten the corrugated sheets. To do this, use a screwdriver and screw the fasteners into the lower wave. On average, one sheet of corrugated board requires 7-8 self-tapping screws. The corrugated sheet is laid overlapping in accordance with the diagram. Adjacent profiled sheets reach more than one wave in size. Specific parameters depend on the roof slope and usually reach 100-300 mm.

The technology of covering a roof with corrugated sheeting involves determining the place where the installation will begin. For a rectangular roof there are no particular difficulties; you can start attaching corrugated sheeting at any end, focusing on the eaves line.

For trapezoidal or triangular slopes, the layout scheme must be carefully thought out. The main recommendation is to start laying along the center line of the cornice, installing the corrugated board in two directions symmetrically.

It is also necessary to take into account the overhang of the corrugated sheet. Along the eaves line it should reach 60 mm if drainage is planned. If there is no need for a drainage system, then the overhang is increased, focusing on. For grade S-44 or NS-35, the overhang should reach 200-300 mm, and for grade NS-20, an overhang of about 100 mm will be sufficient.

The first corrugated sheet is aligned along the eaves and the end of the roof, then it is fixed at the top. Then the corrugated sheeting is leveled along the eaves and secured along the longitudinal side, fastening it to the sheathing. The following rows are installed in the same way. Laying is carried out so that the front overhang in width reaches 70 mm. The optimal fastening pitch is 100 cm. If we talk about the roof gable, here the pitch is reduced to 50-60 cm, and at the eaves to 30-40 cm.