The grout performs several functions at once: it provides waterproofing of seams, prevents the appearance of mold, hides minor laying defects and uneven edges of the tile itself. In addition, it is the grout that gives the cladding a neat, finished look and emphasizes the color and texture of the tile. Let's look at how to grout the tiles on the floor, and what composition is needed for this.

Grouts are available in the form of a ready-made mixture or dry powder, which must be diluted to a paste immediately before processing the joints. The basis of the grout is cement or resin, as a result of which the compositions differ in their characteristics and scope of application.

There are two types of such grout - sand-cement based and Portland cement based. The first type is the simplest and cheapest grout, designed for wide joints (more than 5 mm). The composition may have different grain sizes, depending on the fraction of sand used. This type of grout is short-lived, crumbles when cleaned, and cannot withstand prolonged exposure to water. In addition, it cannot be used on glazed tiles, since the sharp grains of sand leave many small scratches on the surface.

The second type is a mixture of cement and various additives that promote the plasticity of the mixture and slow down its setting. It is intended for seams with a width of 3-5 mm. To dilute the dry mixture, use water or liquid latex, which increases the hydrophobic properties of the grout. This grout is easy to apply, fills joints efficiently, and can be used on glazed tiles.

Grout for tile joints - consistency

Advantages of cement composition:

• very affordable price;
• simplicity and ease of application;
• if necessary, replace the old grout without special effort removed from the seams.

Flaws:

• susceptibility to cracking;
• insufficient moisture resistance;
• lack of resistance to chemically aggressive substances;
• limited color range.

Resin based grout

This grout is called two-component because it is mixed with a hardener before use. The base is furan or epoxy resin: the first type is used in the industrial field, the second is suitable for both industrial and domestic use.

Epoxy grout has good moisture resistance and chemical resistance. Seams treated with this composition are easier to clean from dirt, do not become saturated with water, do not crumble, and retain their original color for a very long time. By the way, the color range of epoxy grouts is much richer and brighter than that of cement grouts, which is due to the presence of special pigments in the composition.

Advantages:

• resistance to temperature changes and negative influences;
• resistance to abrasion;
• plastic;
• dirt-repellent properties;
• Fade resistance.

Flaws:

• high price;
• difficulty of application.

Prices for grout for Ceresit tiles

ceresit tile grout

Choice of grout

Grouting affects the overall perception of the cladding, and does not right choice composition can completely ruin the impression. To avoid mistakes, you should select the grout taking into account the type of tile surface, the width of the joints, and the color scheme of the finish. The following recommendations will help you decide:

• For tiles and glass mosaics, it is recommended to use translucent epoxy compounds. After drying, they do not show through the tiles, unlike other mixtures;
• for tiles with a textured or untreated surface, it is necessary to additionally purchase a protective compound that prevents the grout from penetrating into the pores;
• Cement grouts are chosen for wide joints (5-15 mm), epoxy grouts for narrow joints (1-5 mm). As a rule, on the grout packaging, manufacturers always indicate the permissible joint width for a specific type of mixture;
• For bathrooms, kitchens and bathrooms it is worth buying epoxy grouts, for dry rooms - cement ones.

As for color, there are also rules here. You can make colored grout yourself by adding a coloring pigment to the mixture, but in this case it is difficult to achieve the desired shade. In addition, if the composition is poorly mixed, the seams after grouting will be colored unevenly, which is immediately noticeable. It is best to buy a ready-made color mixture: every hardware store offers available samples on special fans or layouts.

The color of the grout is of great importance. To emphasize the geometry of the tile, you need to choose a composition that is contrasting in color, that is, choose a dark grout for light tiles, and light grout for dark ones. Bright colored grouts give the cladding a fresh and elegant look, but at the same time highlight the slightest installation errors. But muted pastel colors add restraint and smooth out defects.

To ensure that the color of the seams harmonizes with the finish, it is recommended to choose the color of the grout according to the darkest or lightest shade that is present in the tile pattern. If the cladding is black and white, the seams should be gray. In general, gray is a universal color, it suits any tile, so if you can’t decide, choose it and you won’t go wrong.

Use white grout for floor tiles not recommended: the slightest dirt is clearly visible on white seams, so you will have to clean them much more often. In addition, over time, such grout acquires a yellowish tint, and the seams have a less attractive appearance. The best option For floor tiles, grout compounds are used in all shades of brown and gray.

To increase the decorativeness of tile joints, special additives are produced - mother-of-pearl, luminescent, as well as silver and gold chips. All of them are designed for epoxy grout, and mixing with a cement composition does not give the desired effect. These additives are sold separately and before grouting are simply mixed with the working composition until smooth. Treated seams look very impressive, and, depending on the type of additive, they can shimmer in the light with brilliant sparks, cast like mother-of-pearl, bronze, platinum, or glow in the dark.

Table. Popular brands of grout mixtures

Name	Description
	A popular cement-based composition with the addition of organic, polymer and mineral components. Intended for processing joints with a width of 1-6 mm, used on cladding made of ceramics, glass and natural stone. When applied, it is characterized by high plasticity, easily penetrates into all voids, and firmly adheres to the surface. After hardening, it is characterized by minimal shrinkage, excellent resistance to mechanical stress, resistance to fading, and low water absorption. Available in powder form, packaged in bags of 5 and 2 kg. Available in 32 different colors
	Cement-polymer composition with improved characteristics. Designed for joints 2-20 mm, suitable for ceramics, natural stone, agglomerates, marble and glass mosaics. The mixture is easy to apply, dries quickly, and can be easily removed from the surface. After hardening, it provides color fastness, dirt- and water-repellent properties, and resistance to abrasion and stress. Available in powder form, packaged in bags of 5 and 2 kg
	Epoxy composition with mineral fillers. Designed for seams up to 10 mm wide. Suitable for all types of tiles, porcelain stoneware, natural stone. After hardening, the grout is resistant to chemical detergents, water, ultraviolet radiation, and intense mechanical stress. Available in the form of a paste, which must be mixed with a hardener before application. Packaged in plastic buckets of 5 kg, gray color
	It is made on the basis of cement, intended for processing joints up to 10 mm wide in rooms with high level humidity. Contains antifungal additives, is easy to apply, and after curing forms a perfectly smooth surface. The seams do not crack for a long time, withstand intense loads well, and do not fade. The grout is resistant to temperature changes, so it can be used on heated floors. The color range includes more than 30 shades
	It is made on the basis of cement, intended for joints with a width of 1-5 mm. When properly diluted, the mixture has good plasticity, is convenient to apply and easy to clean from the surface of the tile. The main feature of this grout is the absence of streaks on the tiles after washing. The hardened composition provides the seams with durability and color uniformity, reliable protection from moisture penetration. Axton grout also tolerates temperature fluctuations well and can be used to process the seams of tiles laid on heated floors

Width of grout joints

The width of the joints also affects the overall perception of the cladding and the quality of the grout. For square and rectangular tiles, the optimal joint width is 1.5-3 mm, for tiles irregular shape seams can be increased to 12 mm. The wider the seam, the higher the likelihood of cracking under the influence of intense loads on the floor, so making seams wider than 12 mm is undesirable. In addition, with large joint widths, grout consumption unnecessarily increases.

At the same time, joints less than 1.5 mm wide are difficult to fill, especially if a thick epoxy mixture is used. And poor-quality filling promotes moisture penetration to the ends of the tiles, accumulation of dirt, and the development of mold. It is also difficult to clean seams that are too narrow, and over time the cladding takes on a sloppy appearance.

How to rub seams correctly

The grouting process is quite simple and consists of three main stages: preparing the joints, applying grout mixture, surface cleaning. Let's look at each of them in detail.

To process the seams you will need:

• rubber and narrow metal spatula;
• container for mixing grout;
• construction mixer;
• dry grout;
• a bucket of clean water;
• sponge or soft cloth.

You can start grouting a day after finishing the floor, provided that the tiles are laid with glue. If the installation was carried out using cement mortar, grouting should be done no earlier than a week or 10 days later, depending on the temperature and humidity conditions in the room. The grouting itself is carried out at temperatures from +5 °C to +35 °C and humidity no more than 70%. It is also necessary to exclude drafts and forced floor heating so that the mixture dries naturally. Only if these conditions are met will the seams be as strong and durable as possible.

Step 1. The surface of the tile is cleaned of dirt using a damp sponge, and the remaining mortar is removed with a rubber spatula.

Step 2. Clean the seams of glue to half the thickness of the tile. This can be done using a plastic cross, a corner of a spatula, or any other suitable object. The main thing is not to damage the edges and decorative layer of the tile. Finally, wipe the surface with a clean, dry cloth.

Step 3. Mix the grout solution. Pour water into the container, then add the dry mixture and mix until smooth using a mixer. The ratio of water to powder differs for different brands of grout, so be sure to look for the proportions in the instructions on the package. These proportions must be strictly observed, otherwise delamination of the solution, cracks in the seams when drying, and other defects are possible.

Add the dry mixture to the water according to the instructions on the package.

Advice. There is no need to prepare a lot of solution at once, since it sets quite quickly and after hardening is unsuitable for work. It is better to knead in small portions, which you have time to fully work out.

Step 4. The solution is allowed to stand for about 5 minutes, then vigorously mixed again with a mixer for 1-2 minutes. This will allow you to achieve maximum homogeneity of the composition, which will facilitate its application and improve the quality of filling the seams.

Step 5. Scoop up the solution with a rubber spatula and apply it across the seam with short movements, rubbing the mixture inward. Excess composition is removed with longitudinal movements, holding the spatula at an angle to the surface.

Step 6. After 20 minutes have passed after grouting, you can begin the initial cleaning of the tiles. To begin with, use a rubber spatula to clean off the frozen crumbs of the mortar along the seams and sweep them away from the surface. As you work, try not to catch the seams themselves so as not to leave indentations.

Step 7 Take a damp, clean sponge and use short circular movements to erase the grout marks. You cannot rub in one place for a long time, so as not to remove excess at the joints. After sponging, wipe the tiles with a clean, slightly damp cloth.

Advice. For effective cleaning The sponge should be washed as often as possible in plenty of water. A dirty sponge will only leave streaks, and it will take longer to clean up.

After cleaning, you need to carefully inspect all the seams: if voids and depressions are found, you should again knead a little grout and seal the defects separately. If the tiles are unglazed and the grout is difficult to clean in places, a special cleaner will come to the rescue. Such products are sold in all construction stores and are relatively inexpensive. Since the cleaner is a chemically aggressive substance, you must wear gloves when working with it.

Prices for Tarkett floor tiles

Tarquette floor tiles

Video - How to grout tile floors

The joints between the tiles must be grouted correctly. To do this, you should find out what consistency the solution should be, how and when you need to remove excess solution. These nuances are revealed in this article. Once you familiarize yourself with them, you will definitely do everything right.

Tools and materials required for grouting tiles:

• Grout for joints;
• Paper tape;
• Metal spatula;
• Rubber spatula;
• Sponge, ice scraper;
• Bucket, clean rags.

Grouting ceramic tiles

Selecting a shade

Please pay attention special attention choosing the correct grout color. How often, when you come to visit someone, do you notice a discrepancy between the tiles and the joints between them? To prevent this from happening to you, take a piece of tile and go to a building materials store. Choose a suitable shade according to your taste.

Note: The color of the dry grout is 99 percent identical to the color of the finished joint between the tiles.

If you plan to highlight the seams, use contrasting shades. Otherwise, buy grout that is the exact color of the tile.

Surface preparation

Prepare the surface thoroughly, otherwise you will not achieve maximum results. Pay attention to any remaining adhesive in the grooves between the tiles. They will prevent you from doing the job perfectly. They should be removed.

First of all, use a damp sponge to remove all remaining adhesive from the surface of the tile. Then start cleaning the gaps between the tiles.

Remove and remove all plastic crosses that were used to cover the floor or. This can be done using thin-nose pliers or the edge of a metal spatula. Do not damage the edges of the tiles.

Note: Do not use the same cross stitches twice or thrice to adhere tiles. This is not something to skimp on.

After removing the crosses, you should start removing the glue from the grooves between the tiles. To do this, use a metal spatula. The free spaces between the ceramic tiles will allow you to apply grout throughout the entire space between the tiles.

Remove all loose adhesive residues from the surface of the tile and from the seams with a vacuum cleaner.

Use paper tape to protect all surfaces adjacent to the tiles. For example, door jambs, wooden floor. Such manipulations will save you a lot of time and effort when washing dried grout.

Only after completing the preparatory procedures can you begin to prepare the solution.

Preparation of the solution

Try not to use tile putty from untrusted manufacturers. The product should not be cheap - this will affect the hardening time of the solution, its plasticity and ease of use.

To mix the solution in the bucket, you will need a narrow metal spatula. To grout joints, two tools can be used, shown in the photo on the sides of a metal spatula.

In this case, a rubber spatula will be used.

Pour into a bucket required quantity water - see instructions on the grout package. Stir with a spatula, gradually adding the dry mixture. Allow the mixture to “ripen” for several minutes before final mixing to activate its adhesive functions.

Note: To avoid breathing dust while grouting tiles, use a respiratory mask.

Mix the mixture well so that not a single lump remains. In the photo you can see the correctly prepared grout consistency. It should not slide off the spatula like a lump, but it should not flow down it like water. Otherwise, the grout will not be strong.

Applying grout

Before applying the grout, thoroughly moisten the surface of the tiles near the seams. This can be done with a damp sponge.

Start applying grout from the corner of the room opposite the entrance and move gradually towards the entrance.

Only in this sequence will you and the corridor remain clean.

To avoid using too much tile grout, use only a small amount of the mixture at a time.

So, use a metal spatula to spread some of the mixture evenly onto the end of a rubber spatula. Using a rubber spatula, start filling the seams at an angle of 30-45 degrees.

Walk over the same place several times until the space between the tiles is completely filled.

You will have to work with patience so that everything turns out neatly. As you will see, this is not at all difficult to do. Gradually move towards the exit from the room.

Remove excess joint grout from the surface ceramic tiles holding the rubber spatula almost vertically. At this point, you will appreciate the usefulness of the paper tape you pasted earlier.

If you had not sealed the objects close to the tiles, it would have taken a long time to clean them. Anyone who has met one-on-one with dried grout knows what we are talking about and how difficult it is to clean it from any surface.

Cleaning up excess grout

20 minutes after finishing applying grout to the entire floor surface, remove excess grout.

Note: Make sure to complete this procedure on time. Otherwise, for the perfect look of the seams on the tiles, you will have to spend a lot of money on various means. Typically, after applying grout, wait 20 minutes and then wipe off excess grout from the tile surface with a clean, dry cloth.

Recesses in tile joints

Note: If you are grouting flush with the tile, skip this step and move on to the step of washing off the grout with a wet sponge.

5 minutes after applying the grout, take a piece of the tube and remove excess from the seams.

You need to work very carefully here. Whatever shape you make for the seams at this stage is how it will stay. Everything should be done quickly!

Remove pieces of loose grout with a vacuum cleaner. If this is not done, they may get on the seams and stick to them.

The first step in removing excess grout from your floor is to use a dry cloth to remove large chunks.

Then use a damp sponge.

Note: if you notice that a damp sponge is removing quite a lot of grout from the seams, wait another five minutes and then start the same procedure again.

After this the floor will begin to accept the right type(see photo). But there is still a colored coating on the surface of the tile, which cannot be removed at once.

Note: If you notice thick spots on the seams that cannot be removed with a damp sponge, use an ice scraper or the damp, abrasive side of the sponge in such areas.

After 10-20 minutes, wipe the floor damp cloth(with a mop). Do not press too hard on the mop - the grout has not yet completely hardened. The mixture finally hardens only after a day, sometimes longer, depending on the thickness of the layer and the humidity in the room.

After this procedure, plaque from the surface of the tile should completely disappear.

Now you can admire the beauty you created.

By grouting the joints after laying the tiles, you can get two significant results. Firstly, a harmonious surface is created that will fully correspond design ideas. Secondly, the possibility of mold and mildew occurring is neutralized, and overall contamination is reduced. Naturally, the work must be carried out in compliance with certain rules.

There is a certain period that must be waited before carrying out the necessary activities. Thus, grouting of ceramic tiles is carried out one day after laying the material. Much depends on the glue used. Why can't we wait longer? There are several reasons for this:

1. On the second day, the mixture used for cladding retains slight elasticity. This means that it will be easy to remove when cleaning the seams. Subsequently you will have to put in a lot more effort.
2. The moisture remaining in the solution helps better adhesion. Of course, it is possible to additionally wet the gaps. But this can lead to some disadvantages: it becomes liquid and less elastic. Working with such a mixture is much more difficult.
3. Open seams quickly become dirty. Small particles of dust and dirt quickly get into open holes and clog them. This makes it much more difficult to apply the solution.

It becomes extremely clear that such work must be completed on time. Then it will be possible to obtain a coating that will meet all the necessary requirements.

Grouting of joints after laying ceramic tiles is carried out after 24 hours

Preparation of the solution

For work, you can use a ready-made mixture, which is sold in construction stores. It just needs to be mixed well before use. There are also dry solutions; they have to be diluted in advance. To prepare you will need the following:

• Water at room temperature. It is allowed to pre-settle so that possible inclusions settle to the bottom of the bucket.
• Mixing container. It should be convenient to work with and also be larger than the intended amount of mixture. It should be borne in mind that the amount of material prepared should be such that it is used up before drying begins.
• Spatula or trowel. This tool is necessary for kneading. Of course, you can use a drill with a mixer attachment, but given the small amount of mixture being prepared, this will be a pointless exercise. It's better to do everything by hand to get desired result and do not collect the solution from the walls of the container.

The grout solution is best mixed using a spatula or trowel.

The cooking process looks like this:

• Each grout for tile joints contains instructions from the manufacturer. It indicates the amount of water required to prepare the required volume of the mixture.
• Water is poured into the mixing container. Next, a small part of the material is poured. Now you should mix the composition well. If it turns out too dry, then add more water, or vice versa.
• All components must be diluted to a paste. After which the grouting solution is left for about five minutes. Then stirring is repeated.

The result is a homogeneous substance that has sufficient viscosity and elasticity. She is very comfortable to work with. But after some time, the properties will begin to deteriorate.

After mixing all the components, a viscous and very elastic mixture is obtained.

Grouting technology

It should be taken into account that grouting tile joints with your own hands is carried out in several stages. The area of ​​continuous work should be two square meters. This is how we manage to do everything efficiently. Of course, when there is sufficient experience, the process speeds up much.

Before grouting the tiles, prepare necessary tool: rubber spatula, grater, rags, sponge, spatula for forming a seam (smoother).

Immediately before applying the grout, you must prepare the necessary tools and rubber gloves

Further activities are as follows:

• When unglazed tiles are used, they are pre-moistened. This is done using a sponge, which helps water penetrate deep into the joints. But this must be done very carefully; drips and excess moisture must not be allowed to occur. When the material is glazed, this process can be skipped.
  

  Advice! It is better not to use tile sponges that are used for washing dishes. There are other options, they are sold in car service departments.

• The pre-prepared mixture is applied to a grout grater. The tool is placed at an angle of thirty degrees to the surface and begins to move it diagonally. This method is used because when moving horizontally or vertically, it is not possible to apply the composition evenly.

When applying grout to the tiles, you must move diagonally

• The procedure for grouting tile joints requires some effort. You need to press down on the grater to fill all possible voids. You can also use a rubber spatula for this work. But then the process will take much longer. After all, you will have to press the solution in small portions throughout the entire work area. The spatula is great for hard to reach places and corners.
  

  Note! Corners are a very noticeable place that is often overlooked. Therefore, work in such areas must be carried out very carefully.

• Having filled all the gaps in the selected area of ​​work, begin grouting using the dry method. To do this, clean the grater from any remaining mixture and place it at an angle of eighty degrees to the surface. And again, all movements are performed exclusively diagonally. This makes it possible to remove excess composition. It happens that the solution is unintentionally removed from the seam - then the mixture is reapplied.
• The surface is left for fifteen minutes. During this time, you can wipe down another area. Now it's time to use the wet method. To do this, moisten the sponge in water, very generously, and begin to move it diagonally. But before proceeding with these manipulations, check that the putty is no longer removed from the seam. You should experiment a little first.

• The next stage is coming. It resembles the previous one, but the differences are that the sponge is wrung out well. And the movements should be circular. Excessive pressure should be avoided. This is how you can remove the grout material. You must remember that the sponge must be constantly washed and wrung out well.
  

  Note! This process can quickly ruin the sponge, rendering it useless. Therefore, you should have a spare product.

• The sealing of the seams between the tiles is not completed. Next, it's time to use special devices to form beautiful spaces between adjacent elements. It is convenient to use a special spatula; it looks like a small round stick. When the procedure is completed, the next turn of the sponge begins. It is carried parallel to the seam - erasing all excess. It is possible to obtain a rounded seam. If this is not required, then the gaps are simply leveled flush with the tiles.

A special round spatula allows you to form beautiful seams

It seems that DIY ceramic tile grouting is coming to an end. In fact, it should be taken into account that this event is quite long and requires further continuation. Now you need to wait until the suture material has dried sufficiently, and you can begin to remove the remaining excess, which will be everywhere present on the front side of the product.

For work, an indispensable sponge is used, which is washed and wrung out well. With quick movements it is carried along the surface to the length of an outstretched arm. Each next pass must be parallel to the previous one. If you do everything correctly, then in this way you can remove all the remaining solution. Of course, it will be difficult to do this completely, but it is not necessary. The main thing is to remove large excesses from the tiles, which will dry quickly.


Removing excess grout from tiles

Sealing

Sealing is a necessary process that is performed immediately after finishing the grouting work. It is needed to give the seam increased strength. This will protect it from exposure to various chemicals and water. The choice of material is approached with the utmost care. For work, it is better to use compounds that are completely transparent. They are made on the basis of silicone.

Note! This solution has a rather specific odor, similar to ammonia. Therefore, it is better to perform work in a respirator.

The sealing process makes the seam more durable

Before sealing the joints with protective compounds, determine further actions that will be focused on the type of ceramic product:

• Material with applied glaze. All activities must be carried out very carefully. Such a surface is very easy to damage or even completely ruin. Therefore, the work area is additionally pasted over masking tape. And for work they use sealant in tubes, which is applied with a special gun.
• Products without glaze. Many craftsmen advise covering the entire surface, including tiles, with a protective composition. Of course, you will get a layer that will protect it from various influences, but this will ruin the entire appearance. In addition, there is a high probability that such a layer will peel off.

It becomes clear how to use grout and protective compounds. It is sometimes believed that such work does not require compliance with many of the steps described. You can apply the mixture and quickly form a seam. But the result will be quite disastrous. Therefore, only strict adherence to all technological processes– a guarantee of reliability, quality and attractive appearance.

VIDEO: how to properly grout seams on tiles

The finishing touch when laying tiles on a wall or floor is to apply grout to the joints between the tiles. Even if you choose an exquisite premium quality cladding, best glue, do professional styling, but do the grouting step incorrectly, the coating will be damaged. Therefore, it is important to know how to properly grout the seams on tiles so that the finish is beautiful and durable.

When finishing walls and floors with tiles, how the cladding will look largely depends on how to cover the seams between the tiles. This is no less important stage than laying ceramic coating. The hygiene, service life and beauty of the appearance of the tile also depend on the correctness of the work performed on grouting tile joints.

Why do you need to grout joints?

Before figuring out how to properly grout tiles, you need to find out why this procedure is needed in the first place.

Seams are the distance at the junction between tiled elements. The installation technology provides for certain regulations and standards that must be observed during the installation of facing material. On average, between 2 and 5 mm are left between fragments, depending on the size of the tile - the larger it is, the wider the seam.

1. After covering the walls, a shrinkage process occurs, as a result of which the tiles may move. Seams allow shrinkage to be as subtle as possible, allowing space for slight movement.
2. The grout protects the finish from penetration in wet conditions. excess moisture, otherwise dirt, mold and mildew will appear in the seams without grouting.
3. The joints on the tiles in the bathroom allow the walls and flooring to “breathe” thanks to these cracks.
4. The joints are sealed to improve adhesion between the cladding elements.
5. Perform a decorative function. Beautiful, neat joints look very aesthetically pleasing and hide glue residues in the seams, as well as minor chips, nicks and other defects along the edges of the tiles.
6. Grind the seams well if you want the floor or wall cladding to last for a long time.

As a rule, the consumption of grouting material is indicated on the packaging; the required amount of grouting can also be calculated using the following formula:

Flow (kg/m²) = (A + B)/(A x B) x H x D x Coefficient. x 10%,

Where: A, B – tile proportions (width, length) in mm; H – tile (seam) thickness in mm; D – average seam width in mm; Coef. – grout density coefficient (1.5 – 1.8).

Therefore, before applying grout to the tiles, calculate how much material is needed for the entire surface and buy required quantity with a small margin.

What types of grout mixtures are there?

In most cases, for convenience, the gaps between the tiles are sealed with ready-made compounds from manufacturers. Grouting tile joints with your own hands can be done with a mixture of one of the following types:

1. Cement. Contains fine sand and various polymer additives. The powdered composition is diluted with latex or water before use. After dissolution, use it for no more than two hours. Great for seams 5mm and larger. Characterized by ease of use and low cost. It is not recommended to apply to enameled tiles, as sand may scratch the surface. Destroyed by direct influence of water and chemicals.
2. Epoxy. The composition consists of only two components - resin and hardener, but it is possible to add other substances - sand, glitter, Portland cement. It is resistant to any external influence, both mechanical, temperature and chemical. The price of epoxy grout is noticeably higher, and the application process is more complicated. The mixed components are suitable for use in just 10-20 minutes. It is better to use for finishing swimming pools or surfaces that require transparent backlit seams (design solutions).
3. Polyurethane. It is based on water mixtures of polyurethane resins. This solution is immediately sold in a ready-to-use form. Allows addition decorative elements. Its characteristics are similar to epoxy, but the application process is simpler, but the cost is even higher, so it is better to use it only for bathroom floors. It does not like constant direct contact with water, it has a limit on the width of joints - no more than 6 mm.
4. Special. These compositions are used only according to the situation, for example, in rooms with high temperatures (baths, stoves, fireplaces) or aggressive chemical environments (laboratories, technical workshops). It is distinguished by its high price and labor-intensive grouting process. Mixtures based on fireclay clay, furan resin and heat-resistant cement are popular.

A high-quality grout mixture should contain the following components:

• cement;
• impregnation;
• latex;
• varnishes.

These ingredients give the grout strength and elasticity. And pastes used for grouting joints in the kitchen, bathroom and toilet must contain antifungal and antimicrobial substances.

How to choose grout?

In order to properly grout seam joints on tiles, and to avoid problems when using the applied composition, it is important to choose the right grout. This important nuance should be given no less importance than the application work itself. Therefore, before grouting tiles on the floor or walls, it is important to choose the appropriate mixture for this.

Selecting a grout should be based on the following important criteria:

1. Composition and properties. Grouting materials for ceramic tile joints, depending on the composition, change their properties. In the bedroom and living room, it is better to choose for seams cement mixture, since it contains binders and additives for plasticity and rapid hardening of the paste. For finishing rooms with a high degree of humidity, for example, a bathroom or toilet, it is worth giving preference to a product with water-repellent ingredients, and for covering coatings with a high level of wear and load - coarser and more durable components. It is optimal to choose epoxy grout.
2. Purpose. Regular grout paste is specified for finishing the joints of wall tiles. At the same time, over time, the grout is subject to wear and needs to be updated. When processing floor seams, it is better to use a more tenacious compound, since the surface is subject to constant load when walking and contact with various items. Therefore, loose composition cannot be applied here.
3. Color. For many, this criterion is fundamental in choosing a material, because the color determines how the cladding will look in the end. White is considered universal, but if you don’t want the seams to stand out from the overall picture, then you should choose a shade that matches the color of the tiles. This is very easy to do - you need to add a special color to the standard white grout.

In addition, when choosing a grout mixture, it is worth considering such performance characteristics as mechanical load and abrasion resistance (for floor tiles), resistance to humidity and temperature changes, exposure to aggressive chemicals and the width of the joints.

At the same time, for deformed and corner joints it is better to choose silicone sealants, although they are not as durable as epoxy and cement products, they have such advantages as:

• masking tile defects;
• resistance to wet environments;
• antifungal properties.

However, with constant contact with food debris, silicone grout turns into a loose mixture and begins to crumble, and the appearance turns yellow. Therefore, it is better not to treat joints near the sink and countertops in the kitchen with such sealant.

It is worth noting that you can grout tile joints with a compound you prepare yourself. The easiest way is to mix alabaster and water. This mastic is applied quickly and easily, but when it dries it often crumbles and falls off. If you add gypsum to this mixture, the composition will become a little stronger, but this grout will not last long. Therefore it is better to choose ready-made products.

Preparing tiles for grouting

Before applying grout to the tiles, the joints must be prepared for this. After removing the crosses or elements, the joints must be cleaned of glue residues. Gently scrape off the dried mixture from the edges of the tiles with a wallpaper knife or small spatula. You can also use a wooden spatula to avoid damaging the facing material.

The tile adhesive must also be removed from the seams themselves. To do this, use a tool that can penetrate to a depth of 5-7 mm: a spatula, a screwdriver or a wooden stick, but in the latter case the process will slow down noticeably.

To remove residual glue, construction debris, dirt and other debris from the gaps and surfaces, the walls and floor must be thoroughly vacuumed, using a special crevice nozzle for the joints. It is advisable to treat the gaps with an antifungal agent. After this, the seams should be wiped with a soft sponge or a clean damp cloth.

If the tile has a porous surface, then it is better to seal the areas along the gaps with masking tape 3-5 mm wide. This will prevent the grout material from getting into the pores of the ceramic, from where it is very problematic to wash the grout. To avoid having to paint over stains on the tiles using special compounds, it is better to buy a couple of rolls of masking tape.

• the grout mixture itself;
• container for diluting the composition;
• special rubber spatula or bag;
• brush;
• construction mixer;
• clean water;
• foam sponge.

Since you will have to stir a small portion of the paste at a time to avoid it hardening, you need a small container. If the mixture does not harden for a long time, then you can prepare more grout using a mixer. In other cases, a small amount of material is simply thoroughly mixed with a spatula until a homogeneous mass is obtained.

How to seal the seams between tiles?

Let's consider step by step instructions How to use tile grout correctly:

1. Using a thin brush, wet the gaps with water to ensure good adhesion to the mixture.
2. Then you need to prepare a small portion of pasta.
3. Now you can apply the mastic with a rubber spatula, or using a pastry bag, directly into the seam, tamping the material inward, filling all the voids.
4. Excess grout is removed with a spatula and mixed again with the entire mass. The seams should not be convex.
5. If the composition begins to dry out, you can add a little water.

At the same time, the grouting of tile joints on walls and floors has slight differences. The mixture is applied to the walls from top to bottom, and on the floor - from the far corner to the exit. Silicone grout for the corners is applied at the very end.

In wet rooms such as a bathroom and a bathroom, the next day, it is worth re-treating the grout joints with an antiseptic agent to reduce the possibility of mold and mildew appearing in them. In addition, there will always be humidity. Water will often flow through the seams, so experts recommend additionally covering them with epoxy resin.

This completes the grouting of all seams. tiles can be considered almost complete. But you still need to clean the tiles from the remaining grout mixture.

How and when to wash tiles?

In order for the cladding of walls and floors with ceramic tiles to achieve their final appearance, it is necessary to clean them and remove traces of grout and other dirt. As a rule, I rub the seams twice - once the main time, and the next time when they sag after drying. The tile surface should be washed at the very end, 12-24 hours after finishing grouting.

To clean the tiles from mastic, you need to:

• wet a regular foam sponge with water and use it to rinse the tiles so that the remaining grout mixture on its surface becomes slightly wet.
• then, using a scraper or spatula, carefully remove the remaining grout, holding the tool perpendicular to the cladding;
• To wash corrugated or porous tiles, you can use a soft clothes brush or toothbrush;
• stains are wiped off with a soft dry or slightly damp cloth;
• After this, treat the tiles with glass cleaner and polish them well.

Keep in mind that you need to wash off excess grout before it dries completely, otherwise it will be very difficult to soften and remove it from the surface of the tile. In addition, scraping off the hardened mixture can easily damage the cladding, especially glossy ones.

How to care for seams?

It is not enough to just become familiar with how to properly grout tiles. It is also important to know about the features proper care behind them.

You need to understand that clean seams, first of all, prevent the growth of mold, mildew and pathogenic bacteria.

Therefore, you need to regularly, at least once a month, do general cleaning to clean the tiles, using soap, vinegar, dissolved in water for disinfection. citric acid or special disinfectant detergents.

To disinfect the surface, you can also use a chlorine solution, and to bleach seams, hydrogen peroxide mixed with baking soda. Old toothbrush- to help you. A good steam cleaner will perfectly remove even stubborn dirt, and even germs.

If you have leftover mastic, you shouldn’t throw it away, since you will need to grout the seams or joints on the tile more than once, especially due to excessively thorough cleaning.

If the seams are covered with mold or fungus has multiplied on them, then the old grout needs to be cleaned, the gaps should be treated with an antiseptic and the joints should be grouted again. The silicone mixture is removed with a blade, coated with an antiseptic, and then a fresh layer is applied.

Thus, the correct choice of grout, compliance with the rules during work, regular and timely maintenance contribute not only to a pleasant appearance coating, but also ensure its durability.

Laying tiles is a troublesome task, so it is often entrusted to professionals. But in addition to the tile itself, there are also seams between the fragments, which also require processing. And at this stage it is quite possible to do it on your own, as you will now see.

Choice of grout

Compositions are used to treat seams different types, namely:

When choosing such a product, pay attention to the width of the seam and the thickness of the tile: these are the main characteristics that you should focus on.

Important! When going to the store, take one tile with you - this will make the choice much easier.

One more nuance: if during the tiling process the tiles were laid on a deformed surface (this also happens), it is better to take a superplastic composition that will not only “grab” the seam itself, but will also additionally hold the side edges of the slabs. Don't forget about color scheme, or rather its selection:

• Floor seams are not treated with light-colored mixtures - this is at least impractical.
• The light tone of the grout visually connects the individual tiles into a single composition, while the dark composition separates them into fragments.
• In the case of tiles different shades The color is chosen taking into account the area of ​​the room. For example, for a small room, a tone matching the lightest tiles is suitable - this will visually expand the room. In spacious apartments, a darker mixture will also work.
• Calm shades of grout (light gray, beige and others) are used to work with multi-colored tiles laid in the form of a mosaic.
• When processing wall seams, it is desirable that the grout contrasts with the tone of the floor covering (and at the same time matches the color of the interior details).

Did you know? The predecessor of ceramic tiles was brick, covered with a thick (up to 1 cm) layer of glaze. This technology was actively used in ancient Babylon.

Having decided on the choice of mixture, ask the seller if it will change color during the preparation process.

Required Tools

In addition to the mixture itself, you will need some simple “props” for work:

• A spatula with a rubber nozzle (than larger size tiles, the wider the edge should be). Sets of rubber spatulas of different widths are also sold.
• Plywood for working with flooring.
• A bucket in which the mixture will be prepared.
• Drill with mixer attachment.
• A clean rag and sponge - they are used to remove excess grout.

A small brush or roller can be added to this list (it all depends on the depth of the seam and the characteristics of the surface). A flat screwdriver or knife to remove the old layer will also help. If you purchased cement grout, safety glasses and rubber gloves will come in handy.

Surface preparation

It all starts with preparation. Her algorithm for old walls and new cladding different, but first things first.

Old walls

In the case when the old joint has faded or become moldy, but there are no plans to relay the tiles, proceed as follows:

• The old layer is softened by moistening with water.
• Then it is scraped out. For this there is special tool- opener in the form of a cutter with a straight edge. Although many people work with a nail the old fashioned way, which requires care.
• Antifungal mastic is placed into the resulting voids. To be on the safe side, this procedure is repeated, waiting until the first ball sets (which is especially important for areas near the bathtub or sink).

Important! If the old seam is very stuck and cannot be removed completely, it is necessary to apply a primer under the new mixture (naturally, it must dry).

Practice shows that cement and latex compounds can be removed without much effort. But to remove epoxy, you will have to use a special solvent. It must be used extremely carefully - try not to let the liquid get on the lining. After this, all that remains is to remove any dust from the gaps (a dry cloth and a vacuum cleaner will help with this).

New tile

Work with fresh “masonry” begins no earlier than 2 days after cladding: the tiles must be fixed to the surface.

After making sure that it holds tightly, carry out the following manipulations:

• Use a flat-head screwdriver or knife to remove all marking crosses.
• Remove any remaining paraffin or glue (if any was used).
• Wipe the tiles thoroughly with a dry cloth.
• Do not forget to go through the empty seams with a vacuum cleaner - this is how to remove debris that the rag did not reach.

That's it, you can prepare the solution.

There are a huge number of mixtures available, and each of them is sold in a package with instructions. All the details of preparing the composition are indicated there: the amount of dry material and water (or latex), temperature and consumption rates.

Did you know? In the German city of Mettlach, a unique enterprise still operates for the production of small-format tiles from porcelain masses. The factory began work back in 1748!

For clarity, let’s consider this process using the example of the waterproof composition Ceresit CE 40 Aquastatic:

• For 2 kg of dry workpiece, take 0.6 liters of water at a temperature of +15...+20°C.
• The mixture is poured into the water gradually, otherwise it will form a lump.
• Taking a mixer, the resulting mass is mixed until smooth (while rotating the drill at 400-800 rpm).
• Having seen that the mixture is “the same”, it is left for 5-7 minutes, followed by another stirring.
• After waiting the same time, the grout is applied to the voids between the tiles.

As you can see, there is nothing tricky. Of course, the doses and quantities, as well as the duration of exposure for different mixtures will differ (there are instructions for that), but general idea we already have it.

Process technology

The main part of the work is also within everyone’s power. And it doesn’t matter, it changes old layer or a new one is being laid. You can verify this by familiarizing yourself with the process.

Renewing old seams

Having prepared the mixture, begin its application:

• After scooping a little grout onto a spatula, place the portion, pressing it inwards. In this case, they try to hold the spatula at an angle (about 30° to the tile).
• First, the solution is applied across the seams, and only then - along. They start from the most noticeable corners, passing them from top to bottom, so as not to spoil the finished seam.
• Any excess that gets onto the tiles is immediately removed with a spatula and then with a damp sponge. They harden quickly, so be quick.
• Carefully go over the finished seam with a grout float (or a sponge wrapped in a dry rag).
• Having aligned the seams in this way, wait until they set a little. This best moment for jointing: a piece of cable will do, which is slightly pressed into the new layer and drawn along the entire length. If some of the grout falls out or goes onto the tiles, remove it.
• Then you just have to wait a day or two. This is exactly how long it will take for the layer to harden so that it can be cleaned with fine sandpaper, being careful not to scratch the tile itself too much.

Important! Do not wet the sponge too much - it’s no wonder you can wash off some of the grout you just laid.

Video: updating tile joints

In general, the task is quite doable. True, difficulties arise from time to time with old walls - in some places they sometimes act as a “hump.” When processing such areas, use less mortar (which will save time on grinding in the future).

Fuging joints of freshly laid tiles

The technology for applying new seams is almost identical to working with old masonry - the basic manipulations are the same. But there are also points worth remembering:

• The voids are pre-treated with a primer (if possible, minimizing leakage) and only after it has dried, the seam is jointed.
• The direction of the trowel edge also changes - a diagonal penetration is more suitable for the new cladding.
• Take more mixture in case there are mini-voids under the corners of the tiles (the excess will still be washed off).
• It is advisable to work with small areas: we have processed one “square” and started another.

Otherwise, the procedure repeats the algorithm for updating seams. Video: how to joint tile seams

Cleaning tiles

You can clean the seams and tiles only after they have completely dried, and ideally after 1.5-2 weeks. The first cleaning of the mixture is usually done using a dry method - using a scraper or a soft metal brush to go through the very top of the layer. This removes dirt and dust that got into the solution during hardening. There is no need to press hard, otherwise there is a risk of removing part of the frozen mixture.

Did you know? Among craftsmen, the outer part of the tile is called “biscuit”.

It is at this time that the new layer is treated with reinforcing compounds: polymers, water repellents or sealants. They repel moisture, and drops that fall on the joint flow down instead of penetrating inside. After waiting for the protection to dry, you can begin to thoroughly wet clean the tiles using sponges and rags soaked in water or a special product.

Video: how to clean tiles

Suitable for this:

• Sprays and gels for tile care.
• Soap solution based laundry soap or liquid shampoo.
• Weak chalk solution.
• Ammonia. They rub it on the most problematic areas, previously sprinkled with regular soda.
• The stains remaining after wet cleaning in the form of white plaque remove after complete drying (with a dry or wet cloth).

Powders are usually not used for such purposes - the crystals scratch a smooth surface.

In order for the tile to please the eye with its impeccable appearance for longer, it requires simple but regular care: at least once a month it is recommended to thoroughly wash the entire surface with special detergents.

Important! When washing joints treated with silicone, you should not apply enormous force - this material peels off easily.

Otherwise, the rules for handling tiles boil down to:

• Timely removal of splashes from the surface (there should be no puddles).
• Periodically wipe with a soft cloth soaked in a vinegar solution, which adds shine.
• The same applies to alcohol or vodka (although it will take time to weather).
• Careful handling of tiles. It is advisable not to lean sharp or heavy tools or other objects that could cause scratches against it.
• If possible, avoid placing containers with powerful alkalis nearby - in such proximity the tiles run the risk of losing their shine.

We learned how to grout joints between tiles. We hope our readers will easily master this technique, and the end result will be in no way inferior to the work done by a professional. And may all your endeavors be successful!