How to make a compost hole in the ground. Do-it-yourself compost pit: manufacturing options and expert advice. What you need to know about compost

(20 ratings, average: 4,15 out of 5)

Even an inexperienced gardener knows the benefits of compost, which is used to nourish the soil. It can not only fertilize the soil, but also improve its looseness and structure. Since the main components of compost are waste, nutritious fertilizer is obtained from almost nothing. In terms of cost, it is the most affordable. However, it is not enough to simply dump plant debris in one pile. To obtain valuable material, compost at the dacha must be made correctly with your own hands.

What does a compost heap consist of?

When forming a compost pit at your dacha with your own hands, you need to know that you cannot throw everything into it. The main products for composting are:

weeds;
lightly crushed roots, branches and tree bark;
leaves;
straw, mown grass, hay;
raw berries, fruits, vegetables and peelings from them;
coffee, cereals, tea;
needles;
wood ash;
second-year manure of herbivores;
unpainted wood waste;
shredded paper bags, cardboard, napkins.

The following should not be placed in a compost heap:

To make compost with your own hands correctly, you should add brown mass with poor fiber and green, nitrogen-rich waste. , in a ratio of 5:1. This will speed up the development of bacteria and the maturation of the compost. Waste will also rot quickly if it is pre-shredded.

How to make a compost heap with your own hands? There is nothing complicated about it. You can understand that the balance has been maintained and the compost is correct by its condition. If it's moist, steams a little, feels warm, and smells green, it has the right ratio of ingredients. If the compost heap has no visible fumes, it needs more green masses. If there is an unpleasant odor, brown components are added.

A proper composting pile consists of alternating layers of brown and green litter, as well as coarser and finer components. The finally formed compost is covered with a five-centimeter layer of soil and perforated film or old straw.

How to make compost at your dacha yourself?

First of all, you should choose a suitable location for the compost pit. It should be hidden from prying eyes and protected from the scorching sun and winds. All leftovers and waste are placed in special compost bins, which are best made from a wooden frame.

Digs before laying organic matter compost pit 20 cm deep, the bottom of which is covered with a layer of peat or film. This will retain moisture and nutrients.

Compost heap care

The quality of compost and the period of its formation depend on proper care behind him:

Humidity is of great importance, so the dry pile is moistened. To do this, carefully water it from a watering can, but so that it is damp and not wet. Too much high humidity impairs the functioning of bacteria;
The compost must be turned thoroughly every month. This will enrich the organic matter with oxygen, make it loose and contribute not to rotting, but to the burning of waste. As a last resort, you can not dig up the pile, but pierce it with a pitchfork;
To make the compost ripen faster, more nitrogen is added to it, which is contained in slurry and green parts of the plant.

Usually organic residues are completely overheated in a year and a half. You can tell when the compost is ready by smell and visually. You should get a dark brown crumbly mass with the smell of forest soil.

How to make a compost bin with your own hands?

A composter at the dacha or in the garden can be made in the form of a 2 or 3 section box. It is recommended to use a composter with three sections, each of which will be intended for its own purposes:

for waste disposal;
for ripening compost;
for ready-made fertilizer.

Compost bin can be stationary or mobile(on wheels). To quickly ripen and obtain high-quality humus, the height of the box should be at least 1 meter, and each of its sections should be approximately a meter and a half in size.

Before starting work everything wooden parts are being processed special composition, which will protect the structure from moisture and insects.

Steps for making a compost bin with your own hands:

8 wooden blocks are buried in the ground;
partitions are installed, for which boards are attached to the bars at a certain distance from each other;
the two compartments in the front are sheathed only to the middle. Doors will be installed on top. Only one board is nailed to the remaining compartment from below;
the end parts and the rear wall are sheathed;
a large door is attached to the front wall of one compartment, and small doors to the other two;
ready wooden structure double coated with paint;
Latch bolts and handles are attached to the box.

Once at the bottom of the compost bin drainage will be laid(dry tree branches, etc.), you can put waste in it.

How to properly make a compost pit at your dacha?

The compost pit will not darken appearance plot, but the waste in it rots for quite a long time. Since oxygen is needed for fertilizer to ripen, the compost pit must be properly equipped.

How to make your own compost bin with wood trim?

This option involves making wooden box and place it in the hole.

Manufacturing procedure:

After one half of the compost pit is filled, the raw materials are moved to the other half for oxygenation.

They take an active part in the formation of humus earthworms. To ensure that they get into the composter, the bottom and sides of the structure are not covered with anything.

Slate compost pit

A strong and reliable structure can be obtained if you build it from slate. It is produced in several stages:

a site is selected and the dimensions of the pit are determined;
A small recess is dug, and supports are dug into the corners. You can use pipes or boards;
slate sheets are installed along the edges of the pit;
The space is divided into two or three parts using slate leaves.

Concrete compost pit

The walls of the structure can be concreted, as a result of which such a pit will last for decades. To make it you will need:

When making a composter for a summer house or garden you can use barrels. It could be concrete rings or wooden products that are buried in the ground. The bottom of the structure is covered with drainage, and a cover with holes is installed on top to provide ventilation.

Compost pit using Finnish technology

The main requirement for a Finnish design is size. The height and sides of the box should be one meter each. If the structure is smaller, the contents in it will quickly dry out and turn into dust. In large-sized structures, organics will burn from high temperature.

Materials for manufacturing

It is better to build a compost pit from wood. Not good a good option there will be slate. In a structure made from it, waste will be converted into fertilizer for a long time.

A cheap and convenient pit will be made from wooden pallets. They can be found or purchased inexpensively.

Prepared wooden elements are treated with an antiseptic that can protect them from the ground. After such treatment, the structure will last for several years and will not require any repairs.

To make the structure look decent, you need to buy paint.

Making a compost pit:

One meter by meter box will contain enough compost to fertilize the soil. on a plot of 5–7 acres.

Compost pit-dry toilet

Compost bin Finnish technology can be purchased in the store. This is a dry closet that can turn waste into compost. It consists of two containers, each of which has a volume of 80 liters.

After visiting the toilet, you will need to pour a special mixture of sawdust and peat, then turn the handle. It is located on the body and is designed to evenly distribute the contents of the container.

With this composter you can also recycle food, placing them in a container and sprinkling them with a dry mixture.

As soon as the first container is full, it is moved away and a second container is installed in its place. In the first container, the compost is ready for use. However, in such a dry closet it turns out to be too concentrated, so it should be diluted with earth, sand or peat.

Compost is a fertilizer made from organic raw materials, suitable for enriching the soil in flower beds, vegetable beds and under fruit trees in the garden. It loosens clay soil and retains moisture in sandy soil.

Gardeners usually buy compost from garden stores. But with some effort and a little patience, you can get “homemade” compost.

High-quality compost is obtained from organic waste:

The more diverse your organic waste is, the better your compost will be.

fruits unsuitable for food (rotten), but not affected by diseases (berries, fruits, vegetables, cereals);
used tea leaves and coffee grounds;
straw and healthy plants (grass, flowers);
foliage, branches, bark, roots and ash of trees and shrubs;
sawdust;
pine needles;
small pieces of waste paper (napkins, shredded newspapers, packaging, cardboard);
fragments of natural fabrics (cotton, linen, wool, silk);
second-year manure of herbivorous farm animals (cows, horses).

It is prohibited to throw into the compost pit:

excrement of dogs and cats;
bones;
insect pests (for example, dung beetles and Colorado beetles);
potato and tomato tops;
tops treated with chemical fertilizers;
perennial rhizomatous weeds;
coal ash;
synthetic waste (rubber, plastic and cellophane, scrap metal).

Waste can simply be piled up in the most inconspicuous corner of the site, or you can prepare a neat pit for it, which you won’t be ashamed to show even to guests.

Making such a compost pit with your own hands is not difficult. All you need is widely available materials and a little patience.

Read about how to build a dog house yourself.

Tools and materials for work

A compost bin is often constructed from boards or blocks.

For this you will need:

a circular saw, a jigsaw, a circular saw or a regular hacksaw - for cutting wood;
chisel;
screwdriver;
roulette;
spirit level (or level);
garden shovel or drill;
hammer and nails;
screws (ideally galvanized);
metal profile;
boards from any type of tree;
dye;
door handles and bolts.

To protect wood from moisture and insects:

moisture-resistant enamel;
varnish with antifungal impregnation.

A compost pit with walls filled with concrete will serve you faithfully for a long time.

To make concrete you will need:

river sand;
crushed stone or gravel;
cement;
water.

Sometimes you don’t want to spend a lot of time and effort on making a compost pit. In this case, it is easier to purchase ready-made containers and barrels for compost made of plastic. Such composters have an attractive appearance, but are also more expensive.

Advantages of a plastic composter:

The sealed container prevents leaks and, as a result, contamination drinking water;
Thanks to the ventilation system, the water in the container does not stagnate.

When installing plastic tank Be sure to add drugs to the raw materials that accelerate the process of decomposition of organic matter, or you can add earthworms to the future humus.

Step-by-step instructions for creating a pit

Deep compost pit

Compost in such a pit takes longer to mature, and it is more difficult to mix it, but sometimes this is the only possible option.

You should dig a compost pit where, after heavy rains, water will not flow to the well. Rotting products entering water intended for drinking will affect its taste and health safety.

A deep hole is better because the compost will not spoil general view plot, but in such a pit it takes longer to cook

In order for the organic mass to receive the required amount of oxygen necessary for decomposition, a hole is dug as follows.

Step 1

Remove soil no more than 1 m deep, 2 m long and 1.5 m wide. If you go too far with the depth of the hole, then it will be difficult to extract ripened humus.

Step 2

They retreat 20 cm from each wall of the pit and dig four columns into the corners.

Step 3

The columns are connected by planks, which are fixed 5 cm from each other so that all layers of compost are freely supplied with oxygen. It turns out to be a dug-in wooden box.

Review of types of small architectural forms for landscape design look .

Do you want to plant flower beds for zoning your site? Learn to choose plants for.

Step 4

The finished pit is divided in half using wooden shield to then fill only one half.

Step 5

A layer of thick branches (10–15 cm), bark or straw is laid at the bottom of the pit. The resulting drainage will remove excess moisture and allow the raw materials at the bottom of the pit to be ventilated.

The bottom and sides of the pit are not covered with anything so that earthworms can freely penetrate into it, helping to form humus.

It is important to maintain a certain level of humidity in the pit. To do this, do not forget to water the compost heap from a watering can as it dries and periodically loosen the humus. Cover the pile with plastic wrap to create a sauna effect.

Now all that remains is to immerse suitable raw materials into the pit, from which first-class fertilizer will later be made.

Organic waste is dumped into one part of the compost pit. After some time they are transferred to the other half. This helps saturate the contents of the pit with oxygen.

Concreted compost pit

The most durable compost pit is made of concrete. In such a hole cement mortar the side walls are poured, which increases its cost.

A concreted compost pit is a durable structure that will last for decades

Step 1

It is necessary to remove the top layer of soil and dig a rectangular hole 3 m long, 2 m wide and 60–80 cm deep.

Step 2

Now we make the formwork and fill the walls with a solution of crushed stone, sand and cement.

To do this, pour gravel into a ten-liter bucket and gradually pour water into it. If the bucket holds 5 liters of water (half the volume of the bucket), then you must adhere to a 2:1 ratio (for a full bucket of gravel - 5 liters of sand).

Do not overdo it with water, otherwise numerous pores will form on the surface of the concrete. When pouring walls with concrete, it should be taken into account that the most convenient compost pits are obtained by dividing the space into two sections.

Step 3

Cover the compost pit with a chain-link mesh or a metal frame lid.

If you decide to do wooden cover, then several holes can be drilled in it for ventilation.

The main thing is that the lid can be easily removed - the contents of the compost pit will have to be mixed at least once a week. One wall must also be made easily removable. Otherwise, difficulties will arise when extracting the finished compost.

Sometimes they don’t dig a hole for compost, but prepare it in special boxes.

Three-section compost bin

The most rational option for storing compost would be a box divided into three specialized sections:

waste storage compartment;
compartment for turning humus;
compartment for mature compost.

You can make such a box from wooden boards yourself in just a few steps.

Step 1

We bury 8 wooden blocks in the ground. To protect the tree from rotting, first lubricate it with tar, old motor oil or fuel oil those parts of the pegs that end up in the soil.

We install eight wooden posts, having pre-treated them

You can attach four side bars to the fence - then you won’t need to dig four holes for them, and you won’t even have to make the back wall of the box.

Step 2

We make partitions by connecting pegs with boards. The boards must be nailed in such a way that there are gaps between them for free passage of air.

The front part of the first two compartments of the future box needs to be sheathed with boards to the middle of the height so that small doors can be made in them later. In the last section the door will be large, so we nail only one board from the bottom.

Step 3

Partitions and end parts of the front and back wall we strengthen it by nailing the crossbars. We attach doors, which will also serve as a lid.

In the front of the box we hang two small doors and one large one.

To prevent the box itself from starting to decompose and becoming part of the future fertilizer, the wooden parts must be pre-treated with an impregnating solution that protects against moisture and insects. Impregnation can be bought at the store. You should choose a non-toxic product.

Step 4

We cover the impregnated box with two layers of paint (the second after the first has completely dried). You can choose the paint color according to your taste - you just need it to be combined with the overall landscape design.

When choosing paint, keep in mind that the box will be constantly exposed to sunlight and temperature changes. Paint must be applied in 2 layers

Step 5

We attach fittings to the box - handles and latches. The box is ready.

Compost storage structures are usually installed for several years. Therefore, it makes sense to concrete the bottom of the box and line it with drainage on top. You can put plastic shields on the bottom.

You will appreciate that the effort to create a compost bin or bin was well spent when you feel that you have stopped wasting physical strength on removing large volumes of waste from your property. personal plot. Now it is enough to add organic waste to the improved compost heap.

If you watch wisely compost pit(sieve the fertilizer in a timely manner, add new raw materials to it), then fresh compost you will have it all year round, and you will not be forced to prepare the sourdough again.

Before you start building a compost pit at your dacha, think about whether you need it and for what purposes. Such a structure performs the functions of recycling household organic waste. A compost pit is also useful in order to produce the fertilizer necessary for the garden and vegetable garden, if you are not going to plant green manure on your plot of land to fertilize the soil.
You can, of course, put the waste, along with leftover vegetables and fruits, in bags and then take it to the city garbage containers. But you shouldn’t do this - it’s pollution environment. If built on a summer cottage compost pit, you can recycle the vast majority of organic waste into a wonderful nutrient mixture for your plants called compost. And no time will be wasted on waste removal.

Purpose of the compost pit

Each compost pit has a set of corresponding design features, which depend on the needs for which it will be used. If you don't know where to throw your garbage, you may be interested in a nice bonus that you can get in a few years - valuable compost. Then you need to arrange a compost pit using the appropriate diagram.

Obtaining and using compost.

If you want to quickly prepare fertilizer from available materials, which can be leaves, grass clippings, or manure, then the compost pit will have a different design. There are some requirements that must be followed when setting up compost pits.

How to set up and use a compost pit?

When choosing a location compost pit try to take into account some rather important points:

Place the pit at a distance of at least 25-30 meters from sources of drinking water - wells, boreholes, streams or other bodies of water.

On dacha plots with a slope, the pit is located at a level below the well.

Compliance with such precautions is necessary because otherwise rotted waste may end up in drinking water, which is dangerous and undesirable.

When building a hole, take into account the wind rose so as not to poison yourself and your neighbors with unpleasant odors.

If you place the compost pit in an open, sunny area, its contents will overheat. This will stop composting. Therefore, the best option would be to install the pit in an area shaded by tree crowns.

The optimal place for a compost pit is a corner land plot adjacent to a fence or blank wall.

It is also necessary to decide what waste is placed in the compost pit and what waste should not be thrown into it.

Waste that can be used to fill a compost bin

Raw vegetables, fruits, berries, tea, cereals, coffee, cleaning residues;
Hay, grass clippings and straw;
Leafy;
Branches, tree bark, roots of bushes and trees that need to be slightly chopped;
Weeds;
Wood ash;
Needles;
Napkins, cardboard, paper bags(the paper must be natural) - all this is crushed;
Unpainted wood waste;
Second-year manure of herbivores.

How can you fill a compost pit at your summer cottage?

What is prohibited from filling the pit?

Bones;
Experiment with pets because they may have helminth eggs;
Insect pests and their eggs;
Disease-affected plants (tomato tops affected by late blight, pumpkins and pumpkins affected by powdery mildew, and others);
Plants from soil areas that have been treated with herbicides;
Inorganic waste, which can be in the form of plastic, iron, rubber or synthetic fabrics.

All waste that cannot be composted should be burned or disposed of if it is excrement.

Rules for sorting household waste for use in a compost bin.

Organic waste is processed by microorganisms and earthworms. Do not insulate all the walls of the compost pit below ground level, because if you dig a hole in the ground at a depth of 50 cm and then line it with impervious material, worms and microorganisms will not enter it. In this case, it is necessary to move them in independently.

As can be seen from the above, the rules cannot be called complex, but they must be followed.

Setting up a compost pit or heap

The most important thing when constructing a compost pit is the necessary provision of good moisture and looseness if you want the composting process to be of high quality. There are no specific recommendations on this issue.

Arranging a compost pit at a summer cottage.

To maintain humidity compost heap it can be watered regularly, or covered with a film, which will create a steamy effect. The looseness of the structure of the contents of the compost heap is maintained by the fact that it is periodically crushed using ordinary forks, or materials having different densities are laid in layers.

Optimal compost pit sizes

Width – no more than 1.5 meters;
Length – up to 2 meters;
Maximum height – 1.5 meters;
Go deeper into the ground no more than 0.4 meters.

There are several different compost pit designs, which can meet the preferences of any owner.

Compost pit with two sections

It takes about 2 years for organic waste to rot and compost, unless you use the services of additional effective microorganisms along with those present in the soil on your site. In order to make the use of the pit more convenient, a two-section structure is constructed:

Fresh waste is stored in the first section;
The second section contains waste that has been composted since last year.

Prepared in the second section compost they take it out and lay it out in the beds where they want to improve and saturate the soil with useful substances. The compost pit can be fenced on all sides in the form of a box, but use only material that allows free access of air.

Wooden box for arranging a compost pit.

The box can be made from wooden picket fences, which are nailed while maintaining a small distance between them. At the same time, the contents of the pit will not clog and will not smell unpleasant. You can build such a compost pit yourself in just 1-2 days - the duration of the work depends on the material chosen for fencing.

Compost pit with free access from below the structure:

Such a pit will perfectly replace the first option, because it does not require breaking into sections. Fence the pile 30 cm from the ground. The finished compost accumulates at the bottom. If necessary, it can be easily removed with a shovel and used to fertilize the garden.

Building such a pit is very convenient and causes little trouble. Constantly, when compost is reached from below, the contents of the heap sink lower and take up the free space, at the same time being saturated with oxygen. No special loosening or tossing is required.

Compost heap equipment

Not all summer residents like the artificial creation of unnecessary complications. The best way out From such a situation comes doing nothing, in which nothing is dug up, fenced off, or divided. Only a certain place is selected where organic waste is stored, gradually forming a heap.

Food waste for compost pit.

If desired, this heap is watered with EM preparations, or covered with an opaque film to speed up the composting process. If you have nowhere to rush, then there is no need to cover the pile - its contents will rot on their own, this just takes time.

Use of plastic containers and barrels

Using plastic containers for preparing compost is convenient for those who do not spare money and want their compost pit to look presentable. The container is installed in any convenient place, since there is no risk of contamination of drinking water due to the tightness of the container. In addition, the container has special ventilation to prevent water from stagnating.

Usage plastic barrels for making a compost pit.

When using this option, you need to know that it requires the use of drugs that accelerate the decomposition of organic waste, or the introduction of earthworms into the pit.

Self-construction of a compost pit

An example would be a self-built compost pit on one of the summer cottages. If the structure is fenced on all sides and has a height of one and a half meters, its contents must be shaken periodically, but this is a very inconvenient task. Therefore, it was decided to arrange two heaps, or rather, one heap on two sides.

After choosing a good place - the corner of the site near the fence itself, organic remains were placed in the corner. It is very good if you alternate between grass, manure and soil. First, before the formation of a heap, a place for it is laid with branches of trees and shrubs.

Building a compost pit with your own hands.

When the heap reaches 1 meter in height, deep holes are made (several pieces), into which the EM preparation is poured (this can be “Oxyzin”, “EMochki”, “Bokashi”). On the advice of experts, you can cover the compost heap with an impermeable film - this will maintain constant humidity and temperature, but not everyone does this. When covered with film, the compost will be ready in 2-3 months, but composting uncovered waste requires at least six months to a year.

You don't have to use EM drugs. California worms or prospector worms will do the job well. However, there are also disadvantages to using worms. Worms love warmth, so they do not work in the coldest months of the year. And it is enough for microorganisms that the temperature in the compost heap rises to only +4°C.

It is necessary to water the pile with water from a hose during dry times. If you need to obtain ready-made compost to transfer it to the beds, you can transfer the top part of the heap to another place and select the ready-made humus accumulated at the bottom of the heap. After the humus runs out, waste is again thrown onto this place.

When setting up a compost heap, it occurs to some summer residents to spread plastic film on the ground, onto which they then dump organic waste. They make such a design, believing that this way there will be no leaching of useful elements into the soil. However, they are wrong; this cannot be done for the following reasons:

By isolating the base of the compost heap from the ground, conditions are created that cause moisture to quickly evaporate from the heap. At the same time, moisture does not rise from the ground, despite the fact that even on hot days, thanks to a natural mechanism, moisture should rise upward from the depths of the earth using special capillaries.

If the pile is isolated from the ground, this prevents humus from leaching out of the compost. Washed out mineral fertilizers, since microelements are combined with organic substances and are constantly located in the top layer of soil.

But these properties are quite convenient for use in gardens - neither rain nor downpour is scary. And when limiting minor leakage, which may still occur, add a 10 cm layer of peat, which perfectly solves these problems: it prevents leakage nutrients into the ground. Peat also allows groundwater to rise into the pile.

Requirements for a proper compost bin

If, after reading the article, you still have questions about building a proper compost pit, get advice - don’t build it at all. Why?

The labor of dragging grass and other organic waste from one place to another can be considered unnecessary and meaningless work. When composting, carbon dioxide vapor is formed - this is an irreplaceable food for plants, which is mediocrely lost on the heap, at the same time getting on the nerves of you and your neighbors with an unpleasant odor.

Proper arrangement and use of a compost pit.

You may be called an eccentric, but it is better to place organic waste directly on the beds, where it rots well and does not emit unpleasant odors. In addition, microorganisms will multiply directly in the beds, and earthworms will crawl in and appreciate such an abundance of work for them. Grass clippings can be used as mulch. Chop and lay branches in paths between the rows, and scatter the peelings of fresh vegetables and fruits in the garden.

This will allow:

Retain moisture in the beds;
Feed plants with carbon dioxide;
Do not allow weeds to grow in the beds;
Prepare compost in places where it is needed;
Prevent the leaching of humus;
Reduce the amount of work.

The work proposed above for the sale of organic and food waste is simple and does not require additional skills or effort.

The better the quality of the soil, the richer the crop grown on this land will be. But it happens that the initial data is not very good, and you have to fertilize the soil. To do this, you can use various fertilizers, but it is best to make a compost pit, which will become a source of environmentally friendly pure material. Let's consider how to make a compost pit with your own hands: manufacturing options and materials suitable for this purpose.

In order to understand how to properly make a compost pit, you first need to understand what it is used for. Typically, a compost pit is used to dispose of organic waste, which, as a result of the rotting process, turns into organic fertilizer. There are many design options and each owner can only choose the most suitable option for himself.

A compost heap does an excellent job of disposing of mowed grass and fallen leaves. Under the influence of time, moisture and microorganisms, all this turns into fertilizer, which can be used to grow any type of crops both in gardens and in the vegetable garden.

Make a compost pile organic fertilizers It’s not at all difficult to do it yourself, especially since there are many ideas for independent implementation that can be used as a basis. You can make your own compost pit using pallets, which are usually used for transporting and storing building materials. They can be bought at a fairly low price, or it is quite possible to simply find them on your own site.

How to properly make a compost pit at your dacha: choosing a location

Speaking about arranging a compost heap, one cannot fail to mention the importance of its correct location. First of all, the structure must be sufficiently distant from residential buildings. In addition, the place where it is installed should be well blown by the wind to avoid air stagnation and concentration of unpleasant odor emanating from it. In addition, access to the compost must be ensured so that the process of adding raw materials or removing finished fertilizer is as comfortable as possible.

Useful advice! In order for the rotting process to proceed faster, it is recommended to periodically mix the layers inside the heap. Therefore, even at the stage of planning and arrangement, it is worth considering how this can be accomplished.

In addition, the following criteria for choosing a site suitable for a compost pit must be taken into account:

the selected location should be located at a sufficiently large distance from any sources of drinking water, for example, a well or borehole. The distance between these objects must be at least 25 m;
if the site is not level, but on a slope, then you need to make a compost pit below the water level (preferably at the lowest point of the site). This will prevent the entry of rotting waste and clean water;
You should inquire in advance about the most common direction of the wind, since the pit often becomes a source of a rather strong and unpleasant odor, and can cause discomfort to both you and your neighbors;
It is worth making sure that there is not only a free approach to the pit, but also enough space to be able to bring in waste or remove finished compost using a wheelbarrow.

Useful advice! It is advisable to choose a shaded place for the compost pit, since sunlight has a negative effect on the rotting process, significantly slowing down the composting process.

What can and cannot be put in a compost bin

In order for the fertilizer obtained as a result of rotting to be of high quality and bring benefits to the plants and not harm, each summer resident needs to familiarize himself in advance with the list of those products that can or cannot be added to the compost. So, the following are great for composting:

grass, weeds, leaves, hay, straw, etc.;
berries, fruits and any peelings from them (raw);
waste from wood products that have not been painted;
paper products (napkins, bags, cardboard) in crushed form;
waste from the preparation of tea, coffee or cereals;
tree branches and roots after grinding;
needles;
herbivore manure (biennial only);
wood ash.

Important! The percentage of compost containing peelings from products such as potatoes and tomatoes should not exceed 15-20%.

any plants that have been affected by pests;
plants affected by diseases of the type powdery mildew, late blight, etc.;
excrement of domestic animals, as they may be contaminated with helminth eggs;
bones and leftovers from meat products. They will cause an extremely unpleasant odor and will also become food for rats;
inorganic waste - plastic, rubber, synthetic fabrics and metal;
plants that have been treated with herbicides;
remains of cabbage, the rotting of which is provoked by extremely strong and bad smell.

As for composting weeds, experts recommend putting them in a separate pile, which is covered with film on top. Thus, the risk that the plants will take root again is eliminated and you can count on their death with one hundred percent probability.

If you add weeds to the general pile, you often have to deal with the fact that perennials take root, especially if the humidity is high enough as a result of regular watering or rain.

Important! To speed up the decay process of waste, it is recommended to first crush it. This is especially true for items such as branches, roots and paper products.

Having figured out what can be put in the compost pit and what cannot, all that remains is to familiarize yourself with the rules for caring for waste in order to ensure that it rots as efficiently as possible. Moreover, the duration of the period during which the compost will be formed directly depends on the correct care:

humidity is the most important indicator, which affects the decay of waste and the formation of compost. In order to support required level, it is recommended to periodically water the pile with a watering can. In this case, it is important that the end result is moist, but not wet, since the abundance of water will negatively affect the viability and activity of bacteria;
Once a month you need to thoroughly stir the pile, thus ensuring access to oxygen. This allows the waste not so much to rot as to burn out. At the same time, if it is not possible to completely dig up everything, you can use a pitchfork and pierce the pile in as many places as possible;
To speed up the process of compost maturation, the addition of nitrogen is required, which is found in large quantities in the green parts of plants, as well as in slurry.

For formation quality compost it usually takes 1-1.5 years. During this time, almost any waste and residues will fully decompose. You can tell when the compost is ready visually and by smell. Ready mix It is a crumbly mass of brown color and has the smell of forest earth.

Compost pit: what is it and what is it for?

The issue of using compost is one of the most popular. After all, not every summer resident knows how and why to use the resulting mixture, and how great its benefits are. In fact, you can fertilize the soil with compost for almost any plant. Cucumbers, peppers, zucchini and pumpkin respond best to this type of feeding. The result can be seen already in the next harvest season - the fruits grow large, have a bright and rich color, the taste and aroma are well expressed.

But there are also plants for which compost is not so beneficial. For example, root vegetables, tomatoes, melons and watermelons should not be fertilized abundantly in this way, since this leads to a decrease in the yield, and on the contrary, the amount of green mass increases.

Strawberries respond well to compost, especially if you first cut them “at the root” and cover them with a semi-decomposed composition. Then all this needs to be watered, and all that remains is to wait for new fresh foliage, as well as a bountiful harvest next season.

Do-it-yourself compost pit: manufacturing options and design requirements

In order to properly build a compost pit, you need to understand how the compost heap should be structured. There are many options for making it yourself, but first of all you should pay attention to the fact that it should consist of three parts. In this case, you need to install 8 support posts, each of which must be treated with a protective agent.

Useful advice! Machine oil, fuel oil or even tar can be used as a protective composition for the posts.

A fence can be used as a fence on one side, but boards are better suited for the rest. Partitions are constructed from them, in which holes for ventilation must be left. This promotes the decay process. It is also necessary to install a door that allows access to the compost.

Setting up a compost pit at your dacha with your own hands involves ensuring the proper level of ventilation and at the same time protecting the contents from precipitation. So that the compost heap does not turn into a swamp, during rainfall it needs to be covered with a special lid of a suitable size. And if the weather conditions are not too harsh, then it is quite acceptable to use plastic film for this purpose.

Another option is to use construction pallets that are pre-disassembled. Using circular saw, the boards can be divided into individual elements and then assembled into a suitable structure. In this case, it is better to fasten the boards vertically. The front board can be secured with adhesive. To give such a structure stability, it is necessary to use a building level and level the lower strips.

It is also important that the height of the walls of the homemade composter is such that it is convenient for a person of any height to add, stir and remove compost.

Interesting! You can pay attention to the designs of compost pits made using Finnish technology. In this case, some of interest are design features, for example, when you remove humus from one compartment, it is automatically filled with raw materials from the adjacent one.

Do-it-yourself compost pit: manufacturing options, photo examples

The type of compost pit is determined based on several factors. One of them is the installation method. Let's consider all existing options:

allocating a specific place for organizing a compost pit. In this case, a pit is initially prepared, which is very similar to a well, but at the same time has less depth. The walls of the pit are additionally strengthened to prevent the soil from shedding and are sheathed at a distance of 20-25 cm from the bottom. This distance is necessary in order to provide the microorganism with free access to the waste;
Another option is installation on garden plot a special container designed to collect waste and process it into compost. This method allows you to get the finished product at any time. This design is based on a pit with formwork, as well as a special box made of boards. When implementing this option, it is extremely important to pay due attention to the organization of ventilation;
a DIY compost heap is the easiest way to solve the problem. To do this, it is enough to make a substrate consisting of sand, gravel and dry grass. Waste is simply placed on top, which will begin to rot on its own over time.

Related article:

Detailed technology for constructing structures: soil preparation, frame manufacturing, its installation and filling.

Do compost bin you can do it yourself using a variety of various technologies and instructions. The proposed designs may differ in the materials required for work, dimensions, properties and ease of use.

Useful advice! Regardless of the type of structure chosen, before you begin laying raw materials inside the structure, it is necessary to thoroughly loosen the bottom and install ventilation holes.

DIY compost bin: manufacturing options and instructions

Before you make a compost pit with your own hands, it is advisable to consider how more options and structures that can be used for this purpose. We will analyze in detail the instructions for making the most popular boxes made from various materials.

Garden compost bin: features of installation and operation

A garden composter may well be presented in the form of a large box divided into several sections. Usually they make two or three compartments, but experts strongly recommend choosing the option with three sections, since each of them has its own purpose: the first is used for storing waste, the second is intended for ripening waste, and the third stores finished compost.

Depending on the individual wishes of the owner, the composter can be stationary or mobile (move on wheels). In this case, the recommended height of the box should not exceed 1 meter, and the size of each section should be about 1-1.5 meters.

Important! All wooden elements must be treated with a special protective compound designed to provide the material with reliable protection from harmful insects, as well as exposure to moisture.

To make a compost bin with your own hands, you need to follow the following procedure:

8 wooden blocks are dug into the ground;
Using boards, also previously opened with a protective compound, partitions are constructed. To do this, they are attached to supports at some distance from each other.
In the front part, two compartments should be sheathed only to the middle, and only one bottom board should be nailed to the third. The first two have doors mounted on top.
The back and end parts are completely sheathed.
The entire structure is covered with two layers of moisture-resistant paint.
Finally, handles, latches, etc. are attached.

At the bottom of such a box there must be drainage, which may consist, for example, of dry tree branches. Immediately after this, you can proceed directly to placing waste inside the structure.

How to make a compost pit at your dacha using wooden boards

Compost pit - great solution, if necessary, do not spoil the appearance of the site with the appearance of a pile of waste. The formation of fertilizer in this design takes much longer, and in order for the process to proceed as correctly and efficiently as possible, it is important to take care of it in advance proper arrangement and ensuring access required quantity oxygen.

Work order:

First of all, you need to dig a compost pit, the width of which will be 1.5 m, length 2 m, and depth of about 1 meter.
You need to dig in the corners wooden blocks, keeping a distance of 20 cm from the walls on each side.
In 5 cm increments, boards are attached to these posts.
The resulting box is divided into two parts using a wooden shield.

The bottom of the compost pit is filled with a ten-centimeter layer of tree bark, branches and straw. Such a mixture will take on the role of drainage, which will remove excess moisture and additionally ventilate the raw material.

Initially, only one of the compartments should be filled with waste. Then, when one is half full, the compost needs to be transferred to the second compartment. This procedure will enrich it with oxygen as much as possible.

Important! The bottom and sides of the composter do not need to be covered with anything so that earthworms, which take an active part in the waste processing process, can freely get inside.

How to make a compost bin from slate

Slate is a durable material that is great for creating a structure designed to collect and process organic waste into compost. Creation procedure suitable design consists of several stages:

choice suitable place and taking measurements to determine the appropriate pit size;
according to the marks, a not too large recess is dug, in the corners of which supports are installed, for which boards or metal pipes can be used;
slate sheets are installed around the perimeter of the pit;
Using the same sheets, the resulting container is divided into several parts (two or three).

The use of this design is carried out in accordance with all the same recommendations that are given for compost pits made of wood.

How to make a concrete compost pit at your dacha

If you pay a little more time and attention to the process of arranging a compost pit, then as a result it can last several decades without problems. To do this, it is enough to concrete it. You can do this as follows:

you need to dig a hole about 80 cm deep, 2 m wide and 3 m long;
make formwork inside the pit;
then you need to prepare a solution consisting of sand, gravel and cement. To do this, you need to pour 5 liters of water into a bucket and add 5 kg of sand and cement to it so that the ratio of dry components is 3:1;
the resulting solution is poured into the formwork;
using wooden boards and a chain-link mesh (a metal frame is also suitable), a cover is constructed for the pit.

It is very important that when using boards to mount the cover, there is a distance between the elements necessary for normal ventilation.

Compost pit using Finnish technology: secrets of installing the structure

The main requirement for structures made using Finnish technology is compliance with certain dimensions. The height and width of the box must be the same and be 1 m. This is extremely important, since in a smaller box the raw materials will simply dry out, turning not into compost, but into dust. Large sizes are unacceptable for another reason - in this case there is a risk of burning the contents from too high a temperature.

To make such a structure, it is best to use wood. Slate in this case is not a very suitable option, since structures made from it are characterized by a longer period of waste decomposition. Again, cheap and at the same time quite convenient option– Finnish compost pit made from pallets.

Algorithm for assembling a compost pit using Finnish technology:

The frame of the box of the required size is assembled from wood pre-treated with antiseptic agents.
Then the finished frame is sheathed with boards. The boards are placed tightly only on the partitions separating the compartments. On the side walls, the boards should be spaced with a 1 cm indentation.
The rear wall of the structure is also covered with boards at a distance of 1 cm.
The bottom of the box is covered using a slab. At the same time, it is also important to maintain some distance between the elements so that excess liquid can be effectively drained.
A small door is installed in the lower part of the front wall of the structure, the height of which is usually 30 cm. It is secured using ordinary door hinges.
The roof of the structure is made gable, with one of the slopes attached to hinges so that it simultaneously acts as a door, providing the opportunity to pour waste inside.

Interesting! In one box, the size of which is 1x1 m, you can prepare an amount of compost sufficient to fertilize a plot of land of 5-7 acres.

Compost pit-dry toilet: what is it?

Another special type of compost pit is a dry closet, which can also turn human waste products into compost. It is a structure consisting of two containers, each with a volume of 80 liters.

Using this type of dry closet is as follows: after visiting the toilet, you need to turn a special handle, which is responsible for supplying a portion of a special mixture consisting of peat and sawdust. Thanks to this mechanism, the mixture is distributed evenly and covers up the waste that gets inside.

It is quite possible to use such a composter-dry toilet for recycling not too much food waste, simply by throwing it inside and filling it with dry mixture. When the first container is completely filled, it must be moved away and the second one installed in its place, which can be used in the same way. At this time, the first container will contain a compost mixture, completely ready for use.

Important! The compost obtained in such a composter will be very concentrated. This must be taken into account, and before adding it to the soil, you need to dilute the mixture with soil, sand or peat.

Criteria for choosing a ready-made composter for a summer cottage

At the same time, an increasing number of owners suburban areas are trying to stop using homemade designs, giving preference to purchased models. Let's look at what advantages and disadvantages ready-made structures have, and what parameters you need to pay attention to special attention, before making a purchase.

In most cases, preference is given to simple and convenient composters that are easy to assemble and operate independently. But since the number of offers is modern market extremely large, independently decide on the most suitable option it can be really difficult. Experts recommend using certain criteria as a guide, since models can be:

collapsible or integral;
with temperature sensor;
with a special device that allows you to loosen the contents;
with a mesh instead of the bottom, which provides protection from rodents;
various shapes and sizes.

Composters also differ in the material that was used for their manufacture. Thus, plastic is the most popular today because it is light in weight, which allows it to be moved around the site without problems, and its service life is extremely long. If the design is planned to be stationary, then you can consider purchasing a metal composter. On sale you can also find wooden models, but they are not very common due to their short service life and exposure to external factors.

How to choose and buy a compost bin: review of the most popular brands and models

As examples, we can consider several composters that are the most popular and have received many positive reviews from users.

L&T Globe Composter: Features and Specifications

This model is highly appreciated by permanent residents country houses, since it can be used throughout the year, and not every product can boast of this. The development of L&T Globe was carried out by Finnish specialists who took into account the harsh weather conditions of the local climate. This allows the composter to function without problems even in the harshest winters.

Another advantage of this model is the absence of small and heavy parts, so operating the device is quite simple. The working volume of the container is 310 liters, and durable polyethylene was used as the manufacturing material. In order for the system to function during the cold season, a 15-mm layer of thermal insulation was provided, which allows maintaining an optimal temperature inside.

Thanks to the low height of this composter, a person of absolutely any height can fill and empty it. Moreover, for more more comfort, the design includes a removable upper part.

Thus, all these design features make it possible to create the most favorable environment for effective waste composting. The microclimate maintained inside the container promotes the growth and development of microorganisms capable of processing waste. The developers did not forget about the ventilation system, which is presented in the form of drainage holes in the bottom of the composter.

Important! The ventilation system of this model can be used in two modes: summer/winter. It is important to make the switch in a timely manner using a shutter specially designed for this.

Bulbeo composter: features and benefits

This model is the development of Italian specialists, which exists on domestic markets in two modifications that differ in size (700 and 900 liters). Initially, this model was intended exclusively for processing plant waste, but, as practice shows, it also copes well with composting other organic waste.

This composter is a collapsible model and consists of separate parts that can be easily assembled and, if necessary, disassembled again. This allows you to move the container from one place to another and even transport it. Moreover, when disassembled, this design takes up very little space and can easily fit in the trunk of a regular car.

Among the main advantages of this choice are:

the ability to gain free access to the structure from six sides;
It is convenient to remove the finished compost thanks to the hinged doors;
This model looks quite aesthetically pleasing on the site, since its shape resembles a blooming bud;
the discreet dark green color allows the structure to fit organically into any landscape design.

The material used for this model is durable plastic, which provides reliable protection of the contents from wind and strong temperature changes. According to the developers, the rounded shape of the walls promotes the ripening of compost.

Of course, there are also ventilation holes to provide access to the required amount of oxygen. Anyone can easily assemble this model, because it does not require any tools or additional fasteners. The finished structure weighs only 19 kg and its height is 885 mm.

Products for compost pits: features and advantages of use

Having figured out how to make a compost heap, many expect that they will soon be able to use the nutritious fertilizer made in it. But the reality is that the natural ripening of compost can take up to 2 years. Of course, you can just be patient and wait. But you can go the other way by buying special remedy, promoting compost maturation and accelerating this process.

Interesting! The issue of using excipients is especially relevant for those regions of the country where the warm period is short. If warm weather lasts only 2-3 months, then the compost maturation period has to be shortened artificially.

So, there are several drugs that are well suited for this purpose and are recommended not only by specialists, but also by real users. They all have different names but, in general, the principle of their operation is the same. As an example, consider the drug Tamir.

Tamir is an extremely complex drug, which includes a whole complex of microorganisms that, in the natural environment, are responsible for ensuring the decomposition of organic debris and waste. Due to the high concentration of these bacteria, the composting process occurs many times faster, and after 2-3 weeks full maturation occurs.

It is worth noting that compost obtained in this way is not completely decomposed waste and has a slightly different consistency than usual. But its final decomposition will occur directly in the soil, which will bring even greater benefits to the plants.

Important! It is believed that compost obtained as a result of exposure to auxiliary preparations, as a fertilizer, is many times more useful than that obtained naturally. Therefore, answering the common question, is it possible to use products for compost pits, the answer is unequivocal - not only is it possible, but even necessary.

All products of this type are used according to the following technology:

if the pile has not yet been formed, then the drug is added on top of each new layer, after which the whole thing is watered with water;
in the already prepared heap, you need to make a depression at full height, into which the drug and water are added.

Other ways to speed up compost heap maturation

In addition to complex preparations, you can use other methods to stimulate the processing of organic waste and the maturation of compost in the pit. Let's look at each of them in more detail:

the use of rotted manure, which is quite capable of replacing biochemical preparations intended for composting. At the same time, it is forbidden to use fresh manure, since it can become a source of not only helminth eggs, but also weed seeds, pathogens, etc.;
a solution made from ordinary yeast. To prepare it you will need 1 liter of water and about 1 tablespoon of dry yeast. To this add 200 grams of sugar (1 glass). This solution is poured into the depressions made in the compost heap;
herbal infusion. To improve the effect, it is mixed with chicken droppings or slurry in a ratio of 5:2. It is important to know that the amount of nitrogen contained in fresh bird droppings is much greater than in manure, which means the ratio should be different.

Useful advice! To ensure that bird droppings regularly fall into the compost heap naturally, you can install a feeder above it. This will greatly facilitate and speed up the process.

Methods to accelerate ripening also include artificial moistening of raw materials, turning them and other measures designed to create the most comfortable microclimate for composting.

How to make a compost pit at your dacha with your own hands

Whatever design is chosen for making compost, it is unlikely that its appearance will ultimately be sufficiently attractive. Chances are, no one wants to look at a compost bin, so it might be helpful to think about how you can use it. original design to improve its appearance.

The problem of camouflaging a compost pit is especially relevant for small areas, since almost the entire territory is in plain sight. Although it happens that even for spacious areas, owners use different design strategies to give the compost pit a more attractive look. So, in order to hide such an object, you can use:

camouflage with plants and hedges;
artificial decorations and stationary fencing.

Work related to the manufacture of artificial fences must be carried out in an open area located at some distance from the location of the compost pit. This is necessary in order to make it more convenient to work and to be able to move freely without being exposed to discomfort from the smell emitted by the heap.

The main requirement for such a fence is that it should hide the entire site from the eyes of guests and owners. That is, the compost heap should be completely hidden behind it, and the appearance of the fence should be as attractive as possible and be in harmony with the environment.

It takes much longer and to some extent more difficult to create hedges for this purpose. But they look much more natural and elegant. The main thing is to pay attention to the choice of a suitable plant, so that in the end the hedge is not too bulky and lush, and does not break the overall structure of the site.

Useful advice! You can use light translucent screens entwined with vines as a fence. They cope with the task perfectly, and at the same time do not take up much space, so they are quite suitable for both large and small areas.

The best ideas for decorating a silo pit

Other elements, for example, special screens or screens, can be used to disguise the place where the compost heap is located. Bamboo fences have proven themselves to be excellent. Plants also look good if you carefully plant them in a row.

At the same time, it is strictly forbidden to build a compost pit directly under fruit trees, as this can lead to their death. You need to maintain some distance between the compost and the plants.

The most popular design methods are:

fruit trees and berry bushes planted in a row;
potted gardens placed on several levels to hide the entire structure;
installation of a small architectural object: a gazebo or a fenced barbecue (of course, in this case it is worth taking care that the unpleasant smell of rotting waste does not interfere);
flower beds with tall plants;
supporting wall.

Separately, it is worth noting the camouflage of compost heaps if a plastic container was used for them. In this case, it is not at all necessary to completely mask it. You can use it as a decoration for the area, painting it in bright color and planted around beautiful flowers. You can draw any design on such a container, thus giving it originality.

The easiest way to work is with small compost pits, which can be hidden with an abundance of flowers or even shrubs. By the way, a compost yard is a great place to experiment with growing new varieties of annual plants.

You can clearly see how composters for your dacha are made and designed with your own hands by watching training lessons and detailed instructions. It is enough just to decide which design is best suited in a particular case, and also take into account your own individual requirements and wishes. Otherwise, no problems will arise, since there are as many options for do-it-yourself compost pits as there are ready-made models.

How to make a compost pit with your own hands: video instructions

A compost pit is a structure in which compost matures. It is a product of rotting organic waste and is considered one of the best fertilizer options. Adding compost not only improves soil fertility, but also has a beneficial effect on its structure. Thanks to it, sandy soil retains moisture better, while clay soil becomes looser, which allows the soil to pass air and water.

The principle of “work” of a compost heap is very simple. Organic waste is placed in it and created for them. optimal conditions for decomposition, resulting in compost. In order for waste to decompose, it must be provided required quantity oxygen and moisture. Therefore, the design of the pit must provide ventilation for the mass placed in it. In addition, the compost is shaken up 3-4 times during the summer and regularly shed with water.

The compost substrate takes two years to mature under natural conditions. If you need to get it faster, special bacteria are added to significantly speed up the decomposition processes. You need to know what can be put in a compost bin and what cannot. An approximate set is presented in the table.

Choosing a place for construction

Best place for arranging a compost heap - a shaded area near a fence or wall of an outbuilding. If the sun's rays fall directly on the pit, the decomposition process will slow down or stop completely. Another point that needs to be taken into account is the periodic appearance of a specific smell, so it is advisable to place the structure away from places where people appear.

The compost pit should be equipped taking into account the lifting height groundwater. The substrate should not come into contact with them. In addition, you need to take care of. So, if there is a pond nearby or, there should be a distance between them of at least 25-30 m. In this case, the slope of the soil should be such that after rains the water does not flow from the pit to the drinking source.

Setting up a compost bin

To obtain compost, two types of structures are used. This could be a hole or a special box. Let's look at both options in detail.

Construction of a compost pit

Before starting work, you should decide on its depth. You can make it small, then the contents of the heap will be easy to mix and the substrate will be ready faster. A deep hole is good because it completely hides the raw materials. At the same time, it is more difficult to establish ventilation here. The optimal depth is considered to be 40-50 cm. The pit is constructed in the following sequence:

A hole of the required size is dug.
A wooden box is being built. To do this, pegs are driven into the bottom at a distance of 20 cm from the walls in the corners, and boards are nailed onto them at some distance from each other.
The resulting box is divided into two halves using a wooden board.
A drainage layer 10-15 cm high is placed at the bottom of the structure. This can be bark or tree branches, straw, spruce branches, etc.

Now you can stack the waste. Only one half is filled with raw materials. This way you can regularly transfer the compost mixture from one part of the pit to another to allow for ventilation.

Setting up a compost bin

You can build such a structure with your own hands or purchase a ready-made one in a store. In the latter case it will be volumetric high drawer made of plastic, which only needs to be installed in the right place.

For self-assembly, wood is usually used. A frame is constructed from the bars, onto which planks are placed at a short distance from each other. This is necessary to ventilate the rotting mass.

Be sure to make one wall removable or provide a lid - this will make it convenient to mix the contents of the box if necessary. Alternatively, you can equip one of the walls with a tightly closing door. For ease of maintenance, such a box is installed on concrete base. You can simply compact the earth well and lay any solid material on it. Before filling the raw materials, drainage is placed at the bottom of the box, the same as in the compost pit.

To get good fertilizer, you need to fill a hole or box in compliance with certain rules. The most important thing is to alternate “brown” and “green” layers and make sure that their volume is approximately the same. Experienced gardeners understand dry waste by brown raw materials, fresh grass by green raw materials, etc. By alternating soft and hard masses, you will be able to avoid excessive compaction.