Climbing roses ennoble personal plots, house facades, fences. They entwine arches, gazebos, columns, and garlands. The place where such a rose is planted immediately becomes the main focus of the area near the house or in the garden. Many bred varieties have different colors and shapes. The lack of flowers on a rose is a huge problem for a gardener. To understand why buds do not appear, you need to understand the reasons for this phenomenon.

Landing location

In the first year of life, a rose does not bloom. The young plant takes root in a new place, gets used to the climate and soil. All forces are directed to the development of the root system and new shoots.

A lot depends on the chosen location for the queen of the garden. A rose will not bloom if it grows in the shade. To produce flowers you need enough light and heat. Daylight hours should be 8-10 hours. On shady place The stems develop incorrectly, they reach for the light and stretch out before they have time to ripen. In winter, shoots may freeze. Direct rays are also detrimental to climbing bushes. In the heat, few buds appear, the sun burns them and does not allow them to bloom.

To prevent water from stagnating, the selected area should have a slight slope. The length of the roots reaches 2 meters, so it cannot be planted in areas where groundwater is close to the surface of the earth. If there is a risk of increased moisture, then a small hill is ideal for flowers.

Rose does not like windy areas and drafts. In cold weather, the plant stops blooming and growing. A real queen doesn't want to share her space. Therefore, bushes should not be planted next to trees or shrubs. With a powerful rhizome, trees will take nutrients from the soil. The rose simply will not have enough nutrients to bloom. The beauty is planted at a distance of 70 cm from the nearest plant.

Attention!

It is not recommended to plant the plant close to the walls of a building; there is a likely risk of rapid soil depletion. The minimum distance from the building is 50-60 cm.

Weak ground

Rose prefers fertile, loamy, loose soil. The absence of flowers may indicate soil depletion. Clay and sandy soil are difficult for rose bushes.

To obtain a light substrate, pour sand under the bush and carefully loosen the ground. A little lime will help make the soil crumbly. To enrich the soil, fertilizers are applied:

• in the spring, feed with ammonium nitrate, 30 g of the substance per square of land, repeat after 15 days;
• organics - manure infusion 1:10, 4 liters of solution are consumed per plant;
• During the period of bud development, the bushes are fertilized with nitrogen.

Before planting seedlings, the soil is loosened to a depth of 70 cm. The quality of the soil and tillage affect the formation of buds.

Lack or excess of fertilizers

A large number of substances can harm the bushes, for example, nitrogen will stimulate the growth of foliage and shoots, but flowers will not appear. To increase soil fertility, humus, humus, phosphorus, and special bacteria are added. The way out of the situation with excess nitrogen is to add potassium salt and mix it with superphosphate.

Wood ash serves as a good fertilizer for roses. It contains all the necessary substances, including potassium.

In the second year, rose bushes are fertilized several times throughout the year:

• the first time - at the beginning of summer they add organic matter;
• the second feeding is done 3 weeks after the first - with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers;
• in July you can add complex fertilizers for roses.

In mid-summer, nitrogen supplements should not be used.

In the third year they feed:

• April – 100 g of complex mineral fertilizer per plant;
• fertilize the second time after the flowers wither - with mineral supplements;
• in September you will need superphosphate 30 g per square meter.

Preparation of organic fertilizer: two weeks before application, place manure in the container and fill it with water 1:3. Add potassium sulfate 30 g, superphosphate 20 g. The whole mass is mixed and left for 10-12 days. Before watering, the solution is diluted with water 1:10, 3-4 liters are poured under the bush. In the fall, when digging between rows, 1 kg of compost is added to a square of land.

Lots of growth

The growth of stems and new shoots requires nutrition. New root shoots begin to develop next to the bush. If all unnecessary branches are not trimmed in time, the plant will turn into a shapeless bush and begin to grow wild. Energy will be spent on the development of greenery, buds will stop appearing.

Trim the root shoots close to the ground with sharp garden shears. Small branches with thorns and leaves are removed. Forming a neat bush will help you devote all your resources to flowering.

Pruning the bush in the spring rejuvenates the plant and allows you to increase the number of flowers. Weak, diseased, unproductive stems, as well as stems growing inside the bush, are cut off. Thanks to pruning, the inside of the rose is ventilated.

Excessive pruning of the bush leads to improper development of the plant.

Diseases and pests

Excess moisture causes fungal diseases. Direct sunlight, lack of nutrition, cold, windy nights weaken the rose's immunity. It begins to hurt; if the signs of the disease are not noticed in a timely manner, the flower may die.

Powdery mildew

At temperatures above 20 C*, during the growing season with high humidity, the fungus Spherotica begins to develop. A gray coating forms on the leaves, which appears on the buds and branches. Tissues are destroyed and parts of the plant die.

As a preventative measure, the rose garden is planted in sunny, ventilated areas. Digging the soil also gives good results. The affected parts are cut off and destroyed.

Drugs used:

• in March, spray with potassium sulfate (sulfate) 0.3%;
• spraying is carried out with colloidal sulfur 1%;
• spray a solution of soda and soap on the bush, 50 g per bucket of water;
• until the roses bloom, during the growing season use copper and soap: 300 ml liquid soap per 10 liters of liquid, 30 g copper sulfate pour into 1 liter of water, combine and mix.

In summer, spray 3 times every 8-10 days. Treatment is also carried out in October before preparing for winter.

They appear on the bark brown spots, which turn black, forming rings around the stem. Such branches must be cut off. In order for the plant to resist cancer, feed it with potassium and stop feeding it with nitrogen. In September, potassium sulfate 20 g, superphosphate 30 g are added. Timely shelter for the winter, pruning of diseased shoots, and ventilation of bushes during the thaw period are necessary.

Rust

After rains, when it is warm, the phragmidium fungus moves through the water and ends up on neighboring bushes. It can be carried by gardeners using overalls, hands, and tools. Orange spots form on stems, peduncles, and leaves. The foliage dries out and falls off, the flowers become deformed.

In the fight against rust, all foliage is removed and burned. Digging up the ground, cultivating the bushes Bordeaux mixture, iron sulfate 3%. In spring they are treated with Hom and Falcon.

Downy mildew

In hot, humid times the disease develops. Brown spots appear on the leaf blades. To avoid this, roses are fertilized with phosphorus and potassium. Fungicides used: Zircon, Strobi, Privekurom. In case of severe damage, the entire bush is removed to avoid mass infection.

Chlorosis

If there are not enough trace elements in the soil, the foliage turns yellow or white and subsequently falls off. You need to determine what element the flower lacks and feed it. You can take soil samples and have it analyzed.

Thrips

Barely noticeable yellow or brown insects. The female lays for life cycle 300 eggs. Consequences - the buds do not open, the leaves are deformed. To kill insects, dilute one of the following products: Fufanon 10 ml, Karbofos 60 g, Intavir 1 tablet per bucket of water.

Spider mite

An effective remedy against ticks is tincture of tobacco, wormwood, shag, and yarrow. Wormwood helps fight caterpillars, aphids, mites, and rust. For prevention, all rose bushes are sprayed with it.

A black insect with a shiny tint, up to 10 mm in length. The eggs are found in the axils of the leaves. The larvae move inside the stem and damage it. The plant dries up. To combat them, the same means are used as for thrips.

Rose leaf beetle

Insects lay eggs on leaf blades and they curl up. White larvae appear inside. In July they grow up to 1 cm. Curled leaves are torn off and destroyed. Substances used: Iskra, Intavir, Karbofos.

Roses are also loved by other harmful insects: green rose aphids, rose cicadas, and caterpillars. A decoction of horsetail strengthens the immunity of climbing roses, has a detrimental effect on mites, and fights rust and powdery mildew. For infusion, take 1 kg of herb, add cold water 1:10, leave for 24 hours, boil for half an hour, filter. Spray the bushes on hot days.

Wintering climbing roses

Improper preparation of plants for winter can negatively affect flowering next year. Roses need shelter in winter time. Low temperatures can destroy tender bushes. Spring thaw, dampness, and rain cause fungal diseases. The solution to the problem is synthetic material for covering: spanboard, agrotek, lutrasil. Use frames, arcs, stakes. You can use spruce branches and spruce sawdust. To do this, the shoots are bent to the ground and laid on a layer of spruce branches. Plants are dug up on one side and placed so that they do not break.

Do not cover roses with plastic wrap. The greenhouse effect can cause buds to open during winter.

Cover the bushes at a temperature of 5-7 degrees, not lower. This is mainly done in November in dry weather. Starting in September, watering is reduced, potassium fertilizers are added, and the tops are cut off. Remove the supports, place them on fallen leaves and cover.

• The difference between a climbing rose and other varieties is that it blooms on last year’s shoots, so be sure to cover the growth for the winter;
• in the second year many side shoots grow, if they are not removed, then in the third year of life the rose will produce few flowers;
• the remaining shoots are cut by a third, this procedure awakens the lower buds;
• It is better to lubricate the sections with brilliant green or iodine;
• Shaping the bush is done only after flowering;
• rose loves horse manure, flowering will be abundant;
• if you need to plant bushes near a wall, then this should be south side;
• When pruning in autumn, about 5 strong annual shoots are left;
• the rose should not be allowed to spread along the ground; if it does not entwine an arch or a gazebo, then it is necessary to make supports for it;
• when working in the garden, when pruning branches, use a sterile instrument;
• Do not break off shoots or buds, only trim them with sharp scissors or pruners;
• Replanting a plant is done as a last resort, if the wrong place is chosen and the rose does not bloom, it is replanted in the spring, before the buds awaken, or in September.

In the spring, when the temperature rises to 10 degrees, the shelter is removed. Without fresh air, fungi can develop and the plant will become sick. Ventilation on winter days, when the thaw sets in, is a mandatory procedure for climbing roses.

Let's find out in more detail what a climbing rose is. Planting and caring for this marvelous flower in open ground will be discussed step by step in this article. Correct fit- the key to abundant and long flowering. How to care for climbing roses? Summer residents and gardeners appreciate the climbing variety of roses. They know that with the help of climbing roses you can turn even the most modest area into a beautiful romantic corner.

Climbing roses, description

The shoots of climbing roses can reach several meters. Any support located in close proximity to the bush is quickly entwined with its long and flexible branches. You have probably admired the amazingly beautiful flower arches more than once. Flower columns, pyramids, trellises, successfully disguised old buildings, part of a wall or roof - any garden structure can be decorated with its presence by a luxurious climbing rose. This type of plant is ideal for vertical gardening, but in order for everything to look harmonious and attractive, you should know the rules for planting, pruning, caring for and protecting bushes from pests.

The color range of this type of rose is as varied as that of their park or ground cover relatives. The bud sizes can range from 2.5 to 12 cm in diameter, climbing rose varieties bloom in June and continue to bloom as long as the warm season lasts (approximately 30-170 days, depending on the variety). There are many varieties of climbing roses, but they can all be divided into groups:

• Semi-climbing, whose height reaches 1.5-3 meters.
• Climbing - 3-5 meters.
• Curly - 5-15 meters.

The shoots of these roses are formed continuously, the phases of budding and flowering vary, again, depending on the variety. Among these representatives there are both once flowering species, and re-flowering.

Climbing rose, photo:

The buds of certain varieties can emit a pronounced aroma that can be heard from a distance; some have a barely audible, subtle and gentle scent.

How to plant a climbing rose, choosing a location

This culture will thrive in sunny places with good ventilation. Wetlands are strictly contraindicated for it, as are sandstones and heavy clay soil. In general, loose loams or fertile soils with good soil permeability are most suitable for this type of rose. If your site is dominated by soil that is unsuitable for climbing roses, be sure to dilute it with something suitable. Thus, in clay soil sand is added, and clay is added to the sandy one (to a depth of about 30 cm); in addition, humus or humus should be added, as well as phosphorus additives.

All land adaptation procedures must be carried out six months before planting roses, or at least 2 months before that. Experienced gardeners It is recommended to plant climbing roses where their counterparts have not previously grown. If it doesn’t work out any other way, you need to replace it before planting. top layer ground (50-70 cm). Ideally, climbing roses should be planted on a small hill. The root system of these plants goes deep into the soil (up to 2 meters), so you should make sure in advance that in the chosen location groundwater does not pass close to the top layer of soil.

If you decide to “drape” part of the wall of the house with a climbing rose, then the distance between the bush and the wall should be at least 60 cm (and at least half a meter from other plants). Most often, climbing roses are planted in last weeks September or the first half of October. Thus, before the onset of serious cold weather, the roots will have time to take root in the new place. With the arrival of spring, all parts of the plant will enter a phase of active development and growth, and by the beginning of summer the rose will bloom in lush colors. If a climbing rose is planted in the ground in the spring, then by this moment it should warm up to at least +10 °C; catch the moment when the buds have not yet blossomed - this is important. The second half of April/first weeks of May are the most optimal timing for spring planting.

Planting a climbing rose, when is it better in spring or autumn

Let me make a reservation right away that the rules for planting seedlings in spring are not much different from those in autumn. You should be prepared for the fact that roses planted in the spring will lag a little behind in development and will require increased attention from you. Compared to their autumn counterparts, they can delay flowering by about 10 days.

All the stages described, as well as subsequent care, are applied both in spring and autumn.

• So, before planting, the seedling needs to shorten the branches to about 20 cm in length, and the roots too, to 30 cm.
• Dig a spacious hole so that the roots have room to grow. The depth of the pit should be 60-70 cm.
• If you are planting several bushes, then the distance between them should be at least 100 cm. When immersing the seedling in the soil, make sure that the root collar is also buried 12-15 cm - this will protect it from frost in the cold season.
• The roots are carefully straightened, covered with soil, and lightly compacted with your hands. Make sure that all the roots are directed downward and do not bend upward!
• Planting a climbing rose in spring involves adding nutritious soil to the hole. About 3-5 kg, for example, of peat compost, will please your rose.
• After planting, trample the soil a little and water it abundantly.
• It will be very good if you add a drug with beneficial bacteria that stimulate growth, for example, “Phosphobacterin”, to the water for this first watering. The phytohormone “Heteroauxin” is also perfect.

In some cases, summer residents cover newly planted bushes with plastic film - this technique contributes to better adaptation of plants in a new place. Whether to do this or not is up to you; if the weather conditions of your region push you to create greenhouse conditions for climbing roses, then do not forget to lift the film every day and gradually increase the ventilation time every day. After stable warm weather has established, remove the film and mulch the ground around the bushes with leaf humus, peat, chopped tree bark or straw.

How to plant a climbing rose bought in a store in spring?

Today at flower shops You can purchase climbing rose seedlings with an open or closed root system.

Representatives with bare roots should be planted in the ground immediately. When choosing, pay attention to the presence of lignified shoots - there should be at least two of them. Such a shoot must be mature (bend with a crunch), otherwise the rose may not survive the winter. The bush as a whole should look healthy, have well-developed roots, strong, without dried fragments. The length of the shoots should be at least 60-70 cm.

Varieties of climbing roses with a closed root system are sold in pots, so you will not be able to immediately assess the condition of the roots. Carefully inspect the shoots, they should look healthy, not very elongated; if they are light green in color, then it is better to refrain from purchasing.

The elongation of the shoots and their light shade indicate improper storage seedlings - either in excessive heat or insufficient lighting. Such a rose will be weak, sickly, and unlikely to survive the winter.

You should also pay close attention to the grafting sites; a correctly grafted cutting should have callus tissue at the “joint” site, which promotes fusion. If the grafting site peels and looks unhealthy, then you will only have problems with such a rose.

Planting climbing roses from the store in spring, stages:

1. A rose with a closed root system is carefully removed from the pot along with a lump of earth, and then planted in the chosen place. For representatives with an open root system, remove the film from the roots and place them in water. If there are buds or shoots below the grafting site, remove them. If there is wild growth, we remove it too; shoots that are too long can be pinched. Don’t forget to powder the cut areas with powdered charcoal or activated carbon.
2. The roots should remain in the water for 3-4 hours, thus the plant will be saturated with moisture, the transport soil will become soft, it can be easily removed and carefully inspected root system. You can first add the stimulant “Kornevin” to the water (according to the instructions).
3. We take the roses out of the water, straighten the roots as carefully as possible and place the seedling in the dug hole. What the pit should be like and how to mix the soil (if the situation requires it) has already been discussed a little higher. Water the rose thoroughly with water.
4. After the water is absorbed, you can add more soil (hill up). When refilling the soil, the grafting site can be covered with a layer of soil, but not more than 3 cm.
5. If the spring sun shines too brightly, do not be too lazy to cover the young bush with a paper bag or light-colored fabric - this way it is guaranteed not to burn. This protective coating can be left on for 5-7 days.

Climbing roses, care and cultivation

In hot weather and drought, rose bushes should be watered once every five days. After 20 days after planting, you need to carefully rake the soil away from the bush. By the way, roses planted in autumn also open after winter in the first weeks of April. For this procedure, it is advisable to choose a non-sunny day so that the plant does not subsequently experience stress during the night temperature drop. Make sure that the grafting site remains buried approximately 10 cm into the soil.

During the growing season, climbing roses require generous watering. After the buds appear, as well as after the bush has formed, the plant should be watered every 10 days. In this case, the water should penetrate to the very roots and deeper; 10-12 liters per bush will be quite enough. A couple of days after rain or watering, you need to loosen the soil around the rose. It can also be mulched. Both overmoistening and lack of moisture are equally harmful for roses, so maintain a middle ground in this matter.

Climbing rose, photo:

How to fertilize climbing roses

Fertilizer – important stage in caring for a climbing rose, because this type Quite demanding when it comes to feeding. Throughout the summer, nitrogen supplements should alternate with complex fertilizers, they are recommended to be applied every 2-3 weeks. With the onset of spring, the plant is fed with complex mineral fertilizer, for example, “Agricola-Rosa” (according to the instructions). After two or three weeks, you can add organic matter - “Ideal” or “Flower” fertilizer. You can also use the old proven method - 10 liters of mullein and 3 kg of wood ash, diluted in 50 liters of water. It is recommended to dilute one liter of this mixture in 10 liters of water, and then water the plant with the resulting mixture right to the root. From about the second week of July, you can begin to slowly add phosphorus and potassium supplements to prepare the bushes in advance for the coming winter. Carefully read the dosage of the drugs in the instructions, remember that by overfeeding the rose with chemicals, you can simply ruin it.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year of planting

How does it differ from standard requirements? Its further development and splendor of flowering depend on proper care in the first year of a plant’s life. When new shoots appear, the soil from the bushes is removed (the one that was used for hilling). If the days are sunny, then at first light shading with coniferous spruce branches will not hurt. After 10-12 days have passed after removing the hilling soil, you can begin the first pruning of the central shoot. It should be shortened above the second or third sheet. A little later, with the side branches of the second order, you need to do a similar procedure, while the eyes “looking” into the bush must be removed, and those eyes that are located on outside, left for later correct formation bush.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year also involves removing the buds, no matter how strange it may sound. From the beginning of flowering until the first weeks of August, it is recommended to leave only two flowers on each branch. With the arrival of autumn, these flowers will turn into boxes with seeds (fruits), and after these manipulations, your rose will bloom especially magnificently next year.

Pruning climbing roses or how to prune a climbing rose

Is a climbing rose pruned in the fall for the winter? If other types of roses can simply be hilled, then the climbing variety must be completely covered - this factor does not depend on your region of residence. You can choose one of the thermal insulation methods; in the first case, the ground part of the bush is removed from the support, the foliage is removed, and all weak and old shoots are cut off.

Here you will have to select 10-12 of the strongest and healthiest branches (remaining after pruning), combine them into one bundle, wrap them with twine and carefully tilt them towards the ground. Using metal staples (we cut the wire into fragments and bend them), the branches are fixed to the ground, and then covered with appropriate protective material. If there are several shrubs, they are located in close proximity to each other, then they can be covered with one common covering sheet. In the second case everything happens in the same way, only in this case the plant is not removed from the support, but is securely wrapped in protective material directly on it. The base of the bush is spud as described above.

How to prune a climbing rose? This important agrotechnical care activity should be given special attention. Pruning helps to properly form the crown of the plant, promotes generous and long flowering, has a positive effect on the health and vitality of climbing roses. Immediately after planting, all shoots are shortened by 20-30 cm; in the summer, faded buds and branches growing inside the crown (thickening it) are cut off.

Starting from the second year of the plant’s life, branches are pruned at the end of the flowering phase.

How to prune climbing roses after flowering? They bloom around the end of August - September (depending on the climate in the region), at which time all diseased and dead branches should be removed. The oldest shoots (select 1 or 2) are cut off completely; later they will be successfully replaced by young basal shoots. If these processes are not present, then approximately 40 cm from the base should be measured from the old branches, and the rest should be removed - this procedure is aimed at activating the growth of replacement basal branches.

The remaining (not very old) shoots are cut off in the place where new powerful growth began to form; subsequently it will act as a conductor. Short branches-peduncles are cut to 2 or 3 buds (about 15-17 cm from the base of the branch), weak stems are cut to 3 buds (we also measure from the base). The skeleton (base) of the crown should be formed from the strongest, correctly growing shoots (evenly directed), on which young branches will then form.

How to prune a climbing rose in spring? You should pick up the pruning shears when the buds on the branches below begin to swell (last weeks of April/early May), not earlier. If you start pruning too early, then during night frosts the branches may simply freeze, as a result of which the rose will bloom much later than expected. If you miss the time for pruning, the plant will devote all its energy to forming new branches and foliage, and flowering will be scanty.

Pruning climbing roses in the spring has one important point - removal, namely, tearing off (not cutting) wild shoots that have grown below the grafting site. Usually this situation becomes obvious after the bushes open in the spring. Also at this time, all diseased, frozen branches are removed, all affected fragments are clearly visible in the spring, when the buds swell on the “living” branches.

Transplanting a climbing rose to another place

Sometimes, due to inexperience, the gardener chooses an unfortunate place where the plant feels uncomfortable and gets sick. In such cases, the situation can be corrected by replanting. The best time to perform this operation is autumn, September or the first weeks of October. It is not recommended to transplant later, since the rose needs time to adapt to its new place of residence before the onset of cold weather.

However, if circumstances require it, transplanting a climbing rose to another place in the spring is also possible. As soon as the ground thaws after the winter frosts, and the buds on the branches of the roses have not yet had time to wake up, you can get down to business. To do this, the above-ground part of the plant is removed from the support, the bush itself is carefully dug up (moving in a circle), approximately 50-60 cm are retreated from the base of the plant. Do everything very carefully so as not to damage the root system of the rose, it is better that the hole is deeper than necessary, but the roots will remain safe and sound.

When replanting, the same rules are followed as during standard planting - the roots are straightened and directed downwards, the free space in the hole is filled with the appropriate soil mixture, the soil is lightly compacted and generously watered.

After 3-4 days, you should add more soil (it will settle slightly) and hill up your rose.

There is one interesting nuance associated with replanting roses - they belong to the groups of climbers and ramblers. Let me make a small digression: all varieties of climbing roses can be figuratively divided into these two groups:

• climbers;
• ramblers.

Varieties of climbing roses are called climbing roses; they produce coarse and thick branches that can reach 3-5 m in length. The shoots of climbers are not very flexible; when replanting, they must be cut to half their entire length!

Ramblers are climbing roses with flexible and soft shoots, lashes, the length of which can reach 10 meters. Rambler roses are characterized by active growth; when replanting, all shoots that are more than two years old are pruned. All young branches are left intact, but at the end of the calendar summer they must pinch off the tops - this technique accelerates the lignification of the branches.

How to propagate a climbing rose?

There are four ways to propagate this rose: seeds, layering, cuttings and grafting. The most common and convenient option is cuttings. Seed propagation is possible only if seed material is purchased from the appropriate store. As you know, independently collected seeds from climbing roses growing in your dacha or garden do not carry the varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

Growing climbing roses from seeds

Pre-soak the seeds in 3% hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes. This disinfection creates a shield against the appearance of mold in subsequent stages of growing the plant. Afterwards, remove the seeds from the solution and place them on thin layer cotton wool, again soaked in hydrogen peroxide, cover the top with a similar layer of cotton wool, which is also soaked in peroxide.

We place the resulting “sandwich” in a plastic bag and hide it in the refrigerator, in the compartment for greens and vegetables. We periodically inspect the seeds and replace the cotton layers with new ones (also soaked in hydrogen peroxide).

After 40-50 days, the already sprouted seed can be carefully transferred to peat tablets or small plastic cups with the appropriate soil mixture. Seedling cassettes are also suitable.

Young shoots should be watered as the soil dries. In order for plants to develop correctly, they need to be provided with daily lighting for 10 hours. If you do everything correctly, then a couple of months after planting the seeds in tablets or cassettes, the first buds may appear on young roses. With the arrival of spring, new stock is planted in open ground.

Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings

This is the most easy way reproduction, almost always giving a 100% positive result. For cutting cuttings, you can use already faded or still flowering branches, which are taken from the rose in the very middle of summer, on the 10th of July.

The cut fragment must have at least two internodes; the place of the lower cut (45º angle) should be located close to the bud. The upper cut (flat) is carried out at a considerable distance from the kidney.

Next, all the lower leaves of the cutting are cut off, and the upper leaves are cut in half. Place the cutting in a pre-prepared container with sand or a mixture of sand and soil, deepen it by about 1-2 cm, cover it on top glass jar and put it in a well-lit place.

Now you will need to periodically water the cutting (without removing the jars) and make sure that it does not fall into direct sunlight.

Reproduction of climbing roses by layering

In the spring, from the shoots growing from below, we select the most attractive one and make cuts on it, right under the buds. Next, we make a small bed-ditch about 10 cm wide, put a thin layer of humus on the bottom of the ditch, and sprinkle it with the same layer of soil on top. Now we carefully bend the shoot, place it in the groove and fix it with metal staples. Then we fill the shoot with soil, but leave the top facing outward. Then we take care of the bush as usual, but do not forget to water and fertilize the place where the shoot is buried. After a year, when spring comes, the cuttings can be cut off from the bush and planted in a separate place as a full-fledged plant.

Reproduction of roses by grafting (budding) onto rose hips

A climbing rose can be grafted onto a rose hip bush - this technique is quite often used by gardeners and summer residents. The best time for this operation is the last weeks of July or the first half of August. Before budding, rose hips should be generously watered.

An incision is made in the bark in the shape of the letter “T” right on the root collar of the shrub, after which the edges of the bark are slightly pulled back. An eye cut from a climbing rose is placed in this kind of “pocket”. The eye needs to be separated from the rose along with the bark and a small piece of wood.

Next, we press the eye tightly to the neck of the rootstock and also tightly wrap this place with a special film for budding (available freely in flower shops). After all the manipulations, the rosehip bush is hilled up, and so that the soil rises 5 cm above the grafting site (this is the minimum). After two or three weeks, the film can be slightly weakened, and with the arrival of a new spring it is removed for good.

The climbing rose does not bloom - why?

This can also happen, at least on flower forums, gardeners often ask each other a similar question. 7 factors that influence the absence of flowers in climbing roses were experimentally determined.

Climbing rose - diseases and pests

Rose sawfly caterpillar on a rose
Rose affected by spider mites

At the initial stage, aphids can be removed from the branches by hand, after wearing gardening gloves, but as soon as they feel like a full owner, you will need help chemicals. Insecticides "Shar Pei", "Aktara", "Inta-Vir", as well as the good old "Karbofos" are guaranteed to help you cope with this problem.

If you want to try the so-called traditional methods fight, then grate laundry soap(1 tbsp) and dissolve it in 1 liter of water. Irrigate the rose bushes with this solution for a week, then remove all affected fragments - it should help.

Spider mites love heat and drought; a silvery coating on the foliage is a sign of their presence uninvited guest. Old methods of control using thick tobacco infusion or wormwood infusion give very good results. Contact ascaricide "Neoron" is one of the best means protecting roses from spider mites. One ml of the drug is dissolved in a liter of water, after which the bushes are irrigated. Sometimes treating roses twice with this preparation is enough for the mite to lose its position. The bio-insecticide "Fitoverm" has also proven itself in this matter.

According to reviews experienced gardeners, the drug "Aktara" works perfectly against the roseate sawfly. The preparations “Actellik” and “Phosbecid” (15 ml per 10 liters of water) also show good results, which apply not only to the sawfly, but also to other “lovers” of climbing roses.

In addition to all of the above, I would like to remind you about spraying roses with Bordeaux mixture in spring and autumn - this is important.

Among the diseases of climbing roses, the most dangerous are: bacterial canker, gray rot, powdery mildew, koniothyrium (bark burn).

Powdery mildew
Bacterial cancer

Some diseases have no cure (bacterial cancer), but taking prevention seriously will minimize the risk of developing the disease.

Disinfection of the root system in a solution of three percent copper sulfate (before planting), removal of suspicious fragments and rapid irrigation of wound sites with the same copper sulfate are the most commonly recommended preventive measures.

Koniothyrium infection can be detected in the spring, as soon as the protective cover is removed from the roses. In this case, you need to immediately cut off the diseased branches (including healthy fragments) and burn them. Until the buds awaken, the plant can be treated with three percent iron sulfate; the ground around the bush must also be irrigated. The same Bordeaux mixture or the drug "Abiga-Peak" can also be involved in the matter while the buds have not yet blossomed.

In principle, to combat other diseases of roses, the usual scheme works - removing the affected areas and then burning them, abundantly irrigating the plant with a solution of iron sulfate (3%), copper sulfate (2%) or Bordeaux mixture(3%). Such spraying is often carried out in three stages (with a weekly interval), but sometimes, especially at an early stage, one treatment may be enough.

Climbing roses - photos and names of winter-hardy varieties

The dream of any gardener is for his favorite flowers to delight the eye with lush buds for as long as possible and to withstand the winter. It is simply unrealistic to mention all the winter-hardy and long-blooming varieties of climbing roses, but I would like to highlight some of them and briefly describe their main qualities.

Climbing rose "Iceberg"

It fully lives up to its name; its snow-white buds will bloom for a very long time (until autumn) and abundantly. Repeated flowering distinguishing feature of this rose, it grows quite quickly and in the shortest possible time can entwine an arch or wall of a building. The plant is unpretentious, cold-resistant, the aroma is weakly expressed.

Variety "Iceberg", photo:

Climbing rose "Lavinia"

It boasts cup-shaped flowers of a rich pink hue, is low-maintenance, repeat-blooming, and has a light nutmeg aroma. It grows up to 3 m in height, has good immunity to most rose diseases, and blooms continuously until the first frost.

Variety "Lavinia", photo:

Variety "Polka"

Characterized by wave-like flowering, approximately five waves per summer. The buds are terry, apricot in color, gradually turning into cream color. It loves sunlit places, has good disease resistance, and can grow up to 3 m in height. This variety has powerful and spreading shoots with large thorns and a weak aroma.

Photo of climbing rose variety “Polka”:

Climbing rose "Don Juan"

Luxurious double rose with large (12 cm in diameter) flowers of rich red color. It is an excellent option for decorating the walls of buildings and any vertical supports. It grows up to 3.5 m in height, loves the sun, but also blooms in partial shade without problems. These roses can be cut to make bouquets; they are very fragrant and remain fresh for a long time.

Variety “Don Juan”, photo:

Variety "Flamentanz"

This rose is considered one of the most attractive climbing representatives of the red color. Its buds are large (8 cm in diameter), terry, multi-petaled. It has increased frost resistance; powerful bushes can reach 2-3 m in height. With proper care, this variety can grow and bloom in one place for about 20 years. The aroma of roses is very delicate, but not very pronounced.

Photo of Flamentanz roses:

Climbing rose "Handel"

The buds of this variety have a very interesting color - white and pink, with bright crimson edges and a slightly yellowish center. The buds are large, approximately 10 cm in diameter, the bush grows to 2.5-3 m in height. Repeat-blooming rose, average disease resistance, be wary black spot and ashtrays.

Variety "Handel", photo:

Variety "Bobby James"

A small-flowered representative, but the most attractive in its category. Can reach 8 m in height, is disease resistant, semi-double white flowers with a yellow center (approximately 4.5 cm in diameter), externally reminiscent of cherry blossoms. It has a pronounced musky aroma; during flowering, the branches are simply covered with buds, so that the foliage is almost invisible behind them. The buds themselves have the ability to slowly open over about 10-12 days. Spectacular and incredibly luxurious variety

Photo of rose variety “Bobby James”:

Climbing rose "Golden Perfume"

A repeat-blooming variety whose flowers bloom slowly, to the delight of gardeners. The large buds (up to 10 cm in diameter) of this rose emit a very strong aroma that can be heard even from afar. Flowers of a rich bright yellow hue will decorate the bush until the arrival of the first frost. The shoots grow up to 2-3 m in height, the foliage also looks very attractive - rich green, dense, creating a beautiful contrast with the yellow flowers.

Variety “Golden Perfume”, photo:

Variety "Parade"

One of the most winter-hardy repeat-blooming climbing roses, with large (10 cm in diameter) multi-petal buds of a juicy cherry shade or rich dark pink. The luxurious inflorescences are so large and heavy that the shoots literally bend from their weight. It blooms throughout the summer, blooms slowly, reaches 2-3.5 m in height, and is resistant to precipitation.

Roses of the “Parade” variety, photo:

Climbing rose "Schwanensee"

Another variety characterized by increased cold resistance. The multi-petal buds of this rose have classic shape, medium size (7-9 cm in diameter) and very delicate color - white, with a creamy pink core. Schwanensee blooms until frost, slowly blooming and spreading a delicate, sophisticated aroma. The variety is hardy, repeat-flowering, and resistant to precipitation. The bush can reach 3 m in height.

Variety "Schwanensee", photo:

Variety "Casino"

This rose is suitable for cutting into a bouquet, has a bright fruity aroma, lemon-colored buds are most beautiful when open. A multi-petaled variety, the diameter of a double flower reaches 9-11 cm, its color is darker inside, the outer petals are paler. The bush grows to 3-4 m in height, blooms profusely, luxuriantly, repeatedly throughout the summer.

Climbing rose variety “Casino”, photo:

Of course, a climbing rose will require you to spend time and effort, but, you see, its luxurious beauty fully justifies such “sacrifices.” Follow all the above recommendations and carefully choose a place of residence for your rose.

Do not plant it near bushes and trees with strong roots, do not forget to feed it in time with appropriate fertilizers.

Provide it with reliable support, the types of which I will tell you about in the next article.

Let a climbing rose be sure to settle in your area. Planting and care in open ground, the nuances of propagation and replanting, a rough idea of ​​individual varieties - you now know all this and will be able to apply my advice in practice.

The following videos will successfully complement the article:

The purpose of planting roses in the garden is to enjoy luxurious blooms. If it does not occur, it means that a mistake was made during planting or during the leaving process.

Reasons for delayed flowering

Even if one of the needs of the queen of the garden is not taken into account, the plant is capricious.

Bad place

Roses prefer a sunny location. Having planted them in deep shade, you may not even wait for flowering. The ground under the bush should warm up well. This stimulates the formation of new buds on the graft, from which flowering shoots grow. Therefore, experienced specialists do not mulch roses.

In the northern regions, roses need sun throughout the day, in the south - enough in the first half, then scattered shade

Recent landing

It is premature to expect flowering in the first year after planting. Even if it occurs, it will be weak, sometimes even uncharacteristic of the variety. It is better not to let the rose bloom, but to pinch the buds when they reach the size of a pea. A young bush should first grow strong roots.

Climbing ramblers do not always bloom in the second year, unless the shoots have overwintered well.

If a first-year rose has buds larger than a pea, it is better not to pinch them off, but to let it bloom

Wildness

Usually roses are grafted onto rose hips. If the grafting is done poorly or when planting it is not buried 5 cm below the soil level, then shoots may grow from the rootstock. If you don’t get rid of it, the bush will become depleted and the scion will degenerate. It is necessary to promptly remove wild animals from the ring. They are distinguished by thin shoots with a large number of thorns and small leaves.

Over time, unpruned rose hips will completely choke the varietal rose

How to remove rose hips - video

Incorrect placement of lashes

If a climbing rose does not bloom, make sure that the branches are attached to the support correctly: spirally or obliquely. Otherwise, the buds that are located higher up the shoot secrete substances that stop the formation of flower buds at the bottom of the stem.

Horizontally arranged rose vines bloom profusely

Problems with pruning

If black spots with a red border appear on the shoots, this is an infectious burn. The disease is incurable, the affected branches will never bloom, so they are cut to the ground.

Infectious burn is caused by fungi, most often roses get sick in the spring after an unsuccessful wintering

Usually each stem ends in flowers. If they are not there, it is a blind shoot with a frozen growth point, which is cut off by half to force it to branch and bloom.

During the summer, faded buds are removed to encourage re-blooming. The fruits that set take away a lot of nutrients. But there is an exception to the rule: at the end of August, faded roses are not pruned, so as not to encourage them to form new shoots. The latter will not have time to bloom, will freeze in the winter and become a gateway for infection.

By pruning faded roses, we stimulate a new wave of flowering

On three-year-old shoots, bud formation stops due to impaired sap flow. They are cut into a ring near the graft itself to rejuvenate the rose. On rooted specimens, the “oldies” are cut off at soil level. This stimulates the growth of new shoots and prolongs the life of the rose.

Beginning flower growers should learn to distinguish between groups of roses, since improper formation of the bush prevents it from blooming. Climbing, English, and park groups do not tolerate radical spring pruning. They only slightly shorten the tops of the shoots to the first large bud. The remaining shoots are cut out only if they are old or diseased.

English roses by David Austin are very whimsical, but bloom luxuriously

Violations of agricultural practices

Both excess and lack of nutrition can stop flowering. It is important to observe moderation. The rose is fed if it needs it: the shoots and leaves become smaller, spots appear on them. In June - July, nitrogen fertilizers and 1-2 feedings are given. Ideally, in the spring, the soil under the bushes is sprinkled with rotted horse manure - the best organic “food” for roses. But an excess of nitrogen is also fraught: the plant fattens, forgetting about flowering, and becoming especially attractive to aphids and various fungi.

At the beginning of spring, roses are fed with nitrogen, for example, ammonium nitrate

From the end of July, nitrogen is canceled and they switch to potassium and phosphate fertilizers: ash, potassium magnesium, potassium monophosphate. These substances help the vines to ripen, overwinter and bloom in the spring.

In my practice, there were cases when roses did not bloom. This usually happened in the first year after planting, so I wasn't worried. To make the bushes take root better, I fed them with humates. At the end of August I watered it with infusion of ash. I haven’t used anything else because I use it well landing hole mineral fertilizers and humus. As you know, in such cases it is advisable not to feed the rose for the first two years. For the winter, I hill up the bushes with the following mixture: rotted sifted compost (or manure), soil, sand and ash. In the second year I usually wait for the flowering to take my breath away.

Emergency room for roses

If all requirements are met, the shoots are healthy, but do not bloom, follow these steps:

• remove to the ring all frail branches growing inside or at the bottom of the bush, including mole rats;
• cut off the remaining normal shoots (the size of a pencil or thicker) above the most well-developed bud or leaf;
• feed the rose with potassium humate with microelements (according to the instructions on the package);
• when young shoots appear from the leaf axils of the cut main shoots, spray the rose with a flowering biostimulator, for example, Bud.

The listed measures will encourage the queen of the garden to bloom.

Potassium humate revives roses

Correct pruning of blind shoots - video

For a rose to bloom, it is important to provide it with conditions: light, nutrition, care. If necessary, the plant is given ambulance in the form of special feeding and flowering-stimulating pruning.

Roses decorate parks and gardens with exquisite flowers. And when suddenly flowering does not occur, gardeners, especially those with little experience, begin to panic. The reasons why a rose does not bloom are numerous: age, lack of attention, improper pruning.

General rules for caring for roses

Roses open ground, as well as domestic ones, need a certain level of soil moisture, proper pruning, and winter rest.

Pre-winter pruning

Every year, so that roses can fully rest in winter and gain strength, autumn pruning is carried out. After it in the spring, the bush will be able to bloom much earlier. If the reason for the lack of color lies only in the lack of pruning, then by summer you will be able to admire the blooming buds.

The rose doesn't bloom

The most favorable time for pruning is when the night temperature approaches zero degrees and will remain at this level for some time. If the procedure is carried out earlier, in a warmer period, the bush can continue to grow, forming young shoots. Frosts will destroy them, and the flower will lose its strength.

Important! Pruning is carried out over a five-leaf clover, which is strong and developed; the bud should be external.

A pruned bush can withstand temperatures down to -10 °C without additional shelter. For a quiet winter, the plant is covered using dry leaves, sawdust, and spruce branches. Many gardeners cover a garden bush plastic bags and dig the soil underneath to create more comfortable wintering conditions for the crop.

An indoor flower also needs rest. Continuous flowering can quickly deplete the plant.

When flowering ends, the trunk is cut off. The old stem is removed at the root; the height of the stumps should not exceed 3 cm. A strong young shoot is cut off above the fifth bud.

Important! There must be leaves on the shoot of an indoor rose.

After this, the flower pots are taken out to a cool room.

Transfer

Garden roses can also be grown in pots, but their root system develops faster. In this regard, it is necessary to replant every year, each time increasing the volume of the pot. However, no matter what the size of the flowerpot, the flower must be planted outside in 5-7 years.

Rose transplant

For indoor varieties, you cannot immediately use a large flowerpot. Until the roots fill the entire volume, the rose will not bloom. This error can be corrected by transplanting into a smaller pot.

Important! Shrub roses are transplanted a month before pre-winter pruning.

Watering and fertilizing

Garden flowers, and especially indoor flowers, need fertilizing and watering. If you stop watering garden flower, he will be able to get the necessary moisture from the soil and survive the forced drought, while the rose in the pot will completely dry out in a few days.

Just before autumn pruning watering garden bushes stop. Excess moisture in the soil will negatively affect the root system.

Watering is resumed after the ground dries out from the melt water. At the same time, nitrogen is added to make the plant bush more intensively.

Feeding roses

Health of roses

Any rose loves being sprayed with cool water. As a result of this procedure, new buds form faster and their color is richer. After spraying, the room is ventilated. When there is stagnation and lack of air, indoor roses get sick.

The rose will signal a lack of moisture by yellowing and drying leaves. On hot summer days, when the buds begin to bloom intensively, the frequency of watering and spraying increases.

Important! In hot weather, watering is carried out in the early morning and evening. If spraying is carried out during the day, the drops will act as a lens and can burn the leaf.

Some varieties of roses cannot bloom because they have a bad neighbor in the flower bed. Roses are prevented from blooming by lilac, spirea, and mock orange. They oppress the flower, actively taking away nutrition. You should help the rose and transplant it to another place.

How many times a year do roses bloom

The nature of flowering divides plants into once and repeatedly flowering. Many species form buds on last year's shoots. Wild roses bloom first, but their flowering is short-lived and one-time.

Wild roses

Garden roses bloom a little later, but among them there are varieties that have a repeated flowering period. The second time the roses bloom weaker, their flowers are smaller.

Modern selection has provided a huge number of varieties of repeat-blooming roses that decorate the garden until frost. It is very rare to see a rose bloom for the third time. This mainly happens in plants whose age exceeds 20 years. It would not be amiss to mention that such specimens were properly cared for.

Additional information! Although it is generally accepted that roses live no more than 12 years, it is quite common to find long-livers among them, approaching 40 years of age.

It is possible to make a rose bloom for the third time, only for this you need to create ideal conditions for it to grow and do a series of manipulations with equalizing pruning and reblooming. This is done in greenhouses where flowers are grown for sale.

Bushes planted in the first year may not bloom. It depends on the planting material and the literacy of the grower. Moreover, the first flowering is not at all necessary: ​​the shrub should first be allowed to grow stronger, then the flowering will be generous, albeit for the next year.

Note! The climbing rose always produces buds in its second year. In addition, in order to wait for flowering, the plant must be properly prepared for wintering.

Why do roses bloom poorly?

If the rose bushes begin to bloom poorly or stop altogether, then something was done wrong in the care. Or maybe the pests did their best.

Wrong landing site

The place where they are planted is of decisive importance in growing roses. Flowers love warmth and a lot of light. They will be able to develop normally if they are provided with full sunlight for at least 8 hours a day. The plant will not bloom in shaded areas.

Important! To plant roses, you need as much open space as possible.

The necessary environmental conditions for a flower are lack of competition, permeable fertile soil, and sunlight. Best option flower planting - monoflowers or rose gardens.

Incorrect pruning

Improper pruning is also the reason why a rose does not bloom. Some rose bushes cannot be heavily pruned in the spring; only sanitary treatment is practiced. This group includes climbers, English varieties, and scrubs.

Pruning roses

A long stem of shrub, shortened by half, will flower too late, if it deigns to throw away the buds at all. The rose will eliminate the lack of green mass at the expense of flowering.

To stimulate the appearance of flowering shoots, faded flowers must be removed in a timely manner. It is advisable to carry out this procedure daily. At the same time, blind shoots should be identified and shortened to a strong bud. The rose begins to branch, throwing out new shoots that will bear buds.

Spring pruning helps correct fall mistakes. All missed unproductive shoots, very thin, damaged ones should be eliminated immediately. The shrub freed from them will concentrate on the creation and flowering of the main ones.

Improper care

The crop requires intensive care: control of diseases, pests, additional nutrition. An underfed, weakened shrub is more likely to shed its leaves than to bloom.

However, when feeding the plant, you need to be careful so that you don’t wonder why the rose doesn’t bloom, but only produces foliage. Many media outlets have recommendations for weekly feeding of roses. This cannot be done. Overfed plants grow rapidly and increase their green mass. And if they devote time to flowering, then it is extremely small: 1-2 buds can appear over the entire season.

Feeding roses for abundant flowering

Feeding roses should be justified and balanced. Signs of a lack of fertilizers:

• thin shoots;
• spots appear on the foliage;
• weak flowering.

Only then can you help the roses with food. With the beginning of flowering, the crop will need potassium magnesium, potassium monophosphate. Flower growers with great experience they often refuse chemical fertilizers in favor of organic matter: why treat them if there is horse manure. Its effect on roses is simply magical - the flowers are bright, strong, flowering is long, and the rose itself does not get sick.

Aging, growth

Full flowering will not occur if the bush is choked by root shoots. A rose hip onto which a rose is grafted will produce a lot of shoots. It is easy for an inexperienced summer resident to make a mistake and mistake it for the stems of a grafted crop. Continuing to curl inside the bush, wild shoots choke it, taking away food, space, air, light. The dominance of rose hips indicates a mistake made during planting: improper depth.

Important! The appearance of root growth must be stopped immediately.

Very old rose bushes also stop flowering intensively - only one bud may appear on the bush during the entire season. Such plants rejuvenate.

Old pink wood has a hard time providing nutrition to foliage and especially flowers. Spring sanitary pruning helps avoid this problem. By cutting out woody stems, the owner helps the rose form new, young ones.

Important! The old branch is cut out at ground level.

Ambulance

It happens that all the conditions for caring for a rose are met: it is young, has optimal nutrition, there are no root shoots, the planting site is good, but still it does not bloom. The young florist is perplexed and gives up.

Actions to be taken:

• Remove all unnecessary shoots without exception - thin, blind, small.
• Next, stimulating circumcision is carried out on a strong bud or leaf.
• Offer the crop humate and potassium with microelements.

Pests and diseases prevent the plant from blooming. For each variety, the reason for this case is individual:

Working with flowers for a long time, each gardener accumulates his personal experience, records useful observations and techniques applicable to specific colors. However, there are also universal tips and observations that can be applied to many species:

• Feeding indoor roses during dormancy will lead to excessive elongation of the stems.
• Picky house roses can be protected from pests by placing a few match heads into the pot when replanting.
• When a rose is stunted in growth, it is difficult to wait for it to bloom. Onion infusion will help correct this situation. This is unique natural stimulant and an antibiotic.
• The faded colors of foliage and flowers on rose bushes can be revived with banana decoction. The crushed peel is poured with boiling water and kept for 2 days before feeding.

If rose bushes are given due attention, no pests or external causes will prevent them from delighting everyone with their flowering.